How to Get Huge, Dense, Potent Potent Buds Using CFL Lighting - Only!

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You're a CFL grower, or you're tempted to get started. You are among thousands of people who use CFL lighting to grow plants.But, all is not good in CFL world. According to statistics, 80% of CFL growers are disappointed with their first harvest. Skimpy, fluffy buds are among the complaints experienced by many.Get above the curve and learn how to get medical-quality, connoisseur's Cannabis, that would make even advanced growers jealous!Get started by reading this handbook today!

Transcript of How to Get Huge, Dense, Potent Potent Buds Using CFL Lighting - Only!

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NOTICE: You Do NOT Have the Right to Resell this Handbook. COPYRIGHT© 2014 by Robert A. Narley - All Rights Reserved

Disclaimer:

While every attempt has been made to verify the information provided in this publication, neither the author nor the Publisher assumes any responsibility for errors, omissions, or contrary interpretation of the subject matter herein. This publication is not intended for use as a source of legal or professional advice, such as that given by a license electrician or contractor. The information contained herein may be subject to varying state and/or local laws or regulations. The Purchaser or Reader of this publication assumes responsibility for the use of these materials and information. Adherence to all applicable laws and regulations, federal, state, and local, governing professional licensing, business practices, zoning laws, safety regulations, and all other aspects of creating growing/lighting equipment in the United States or any other jurisdiction, is the sole responsibility of the Purchaser or Reader. The Author and Publisher assume no responsibility or liability whatsoever on the behalf of any Purchaser or Reader of these materials. Any perceived slights of specific people or organizations are unintentional. Any unauthorized selling, sharing, or use of this manual, is prohibited by law without expressed, written consent from the author.

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PREFACE

Welcome to the "Dense Buds Handbook."

Since I'm somewhat psychic, I'm going to predict the reason that you requested a copy of this

handbook! Let's see.....let me think. Okay, I got it!

You are reading this because you are wondering how the heck anyone can claim to get pro-

quality buds with cheap energy saving bulbs.

Am I getting warm?

Okay, so maybe I'm NOT psychic. And maybe you're not reading this to challenge the fact that

CFLs can grow amazing herbs—maybe you're just curious! Well, regardless of why this PDF is in

front of your eyes, I'm here to help.

This handbook will help by sharing tips and tricks that I've learned—the HARD way. Sure, I

browsed online forums and 'Googled' my fingers sore, looking for information to get pro-quality

pot using CFLs ONLY!

So, after many, dreadful, sleepless months of tweaking and testing, I found a “secret.” I learned

there’s a science to growing your own "award-winning" Cannabis—without breaking the bank.

You can even grow several ounces of top-notch herb with every harvest, using $1+ bulbs!

(Eat THAT, big-spending commercial growers)

So come on. Let's dive into this handbook and learn how even YOU can get large, dense, stinky,

sticky, shimmering, resinous buds.

And if the keenest, stoniest of connoisseurs can take a toke and tell the difference between

your CFL-weed, and stuff grown in mega-million dollar grow operations.....I'll eat my shorts. But

until that happens, let's explore the top nine PROVEN tips to harvesting self-grown, brain-

bending, compliment-winning Cannabis!

See you on the next page…

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1. Genetics Sorry, if I didn’t bring forth a big, juicy #1 that would absolutely knock your socks off. It’s true

though; genetics are the number one factor that will determine what you get after harvest.

Before you know what genetics you're working with, don't expect to get huge, dense, sticky,

buds using CFLs or any other lighting setup. Make sure the genetics you are growing produces

those types of flowers, or else you're chasing your tail in vain.

Here’s what NOT to do:

a. Don’t expect dense buds—from a sativa plant with naturally-airy buds, or a particular

strain (or its phenotype) that is known to grow less-compact flowers.

b. Don’t buy a seed expecting to grow it into the most compact, resin-dripping, largest

flowers on the planet. You can't tell until you grow it out properly first. If you need 100%

confirmation, get a clone from a 100% pest-free, trusted source.

Genetics should be your primo concern before you try to win any awards, or even compliments!

Of course I can’t just spew ideas without a little bit of resourcefulness in the process. Therefore,

I’m sharing with you my personal favorite when it’s time to by a single seed or three, or even an

entire pack to grow out. Actually the ONLY place I buy seeds from.

This place has been great so far—and I get zero payment or incentive if you place an order—I

just love their service and quick delivery. Click to pay them a visit!

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2. Complete Fertilizer Don't pump your plants full of “nutrient-of-the-week” marketing hype. Use as close to one

fertilizer as you possibly can. What do I use? I use Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro for my plants’

vegetative phase and for bloom, and I think my plants are greener and buds look better than

many people pumping ‘silos’ full of synthetic crap into their plants, all because Mr. Marketing

Executive told you that your plants NEED it. It’s all wallet-thinning hogwash!

Let’s K.I.S.S. Keep it Simple, Stupid!

Don't overload your plants with hormones, “finishers,” “carb-candies,” “alleged sweeteners,”

“resin rituals,” and any other gimmicks—just to become a marketing statistic. Many well-willing

personal growers are paying obscene prices for hype. This same hype of world-class-secret-

plant-food can be found dirt cheap in the “Food Section” of your nearest grocer!

For instance, the Bud Candy you're spending oodles of cash or credit to buy, can easily be

replaced by good ole' unsulfured molasses.

Or perhaps, the expensive RO water and filters you spend money on, coupled with the

expensive loads of calcium and magnesium supplementation, could possibly be replaced

totally—by using regular tap water and Epsom salts!

Then, you could take the money you “saved” and upgrade your lighting and/or ventilation, and

really hit your dense, potent, swollen flowers target.

Do the research. Find a basic, professional, complete solution. Then dial it in to perfection.

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3. Light Intensity If your CFL reflector has two - 23 Watt, 6500K bulbs under it, and your plant is in anything larger

than a small party cup, expect the worst possible harvest results!

Your reflector should incorporate the number of bulbs that will equal the amount of

lumens/watts that you want your plants to receive.

Seeing how the sun provides around 100,000 lumens per sq ft. on a sunny day, you want to get

as close to that number as possible for optimal results. In the least, you need a decent amount

of wattage per square feet. How much watt/sq. ft is considered “decent?”

50-watts per square footage of grow space is a great start.

75-watts per square footage of grow space is better.

100-watts per square footage of grow space is excellent.

150-watts+ per square footage of grow space may equal “diminishing returns.”

Here’s an example:

My 300+ watt CFL reflector gives off a bit more than 20,000+ lumens for an area that’s equal to

2-square foot area. This equals 10,000 lumens per square ft, or 150+ watts per square foot—

twice the recommended watts-per-square-footage ratio.

My theory is, the more light I can get to my plants, the better off they will be—as long as the

temps stay within a 75°-78° range.

Now remember, with CFL growing, it’s difficult to determine if any watts-per-square ratio will

help determine how “good” things will go during your grow. Light intensity is dependent on

other factors as well.

Factors that will affect the light intensity hitting your plants include the width, length and

height of your grow area, among other things.

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4. CFL Coverage

Stop buying 20 or more 2,700K and 6,500K CFLs, and scattering them ad nauseam all around

your HUGE plant that takes up 6 cubic feet, expecting "dense buds!" Here's a CFL rule to

remember:

Intensity matters first, coverage matters last.

People…please stop buying (or making) reflectors which are 2 to 4 feet in length, then spacing

your lights miles apart from each other! That totally defeats what you’re trying to accomplish

for our intents and purposes.

Let's not catch you on the Internet screaming, "I have a 1,200 watt CFL grow, but my buds came

out airy and I only yielded 18 grams!"

Concentrate your light ALL ON ONE SPOT!

So many growers space their CFLs all around the plants like they’re building a fence or a

fortress! SURE, each bud might be getting its own 40-watt light, but what does that give each

flowering spot to use? About 2,600 lumens each? Dense buds? Not at THAT pace!

Remember the "as-close-to-100,000-lumens-as-possible” rule? Yep, that goes for EACH bud

AND leaf on your plant. The sun doesn't divide itself up into 40 smaller little suns, so why

should your lights shine on your plant that way, while expecting “sun-grown” results? NOT!

Bad lighting arrangement – Example #1

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Bad lighting arrangement – Example #2

Bad lighting arrangement – Example #3

Learn How I Built a Pro-Quality, High-Intensity CFL Grow Light. For LESS than $50!

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5. Screw Bandwagons Laugh at ANYONE who suggests that you stop using CFL lighting and buy a MH or HPS.

Especially if you just wanted quick advice about using CFLS!

Let’s take ME as an example. I run a 4x2x5 grow tent, with 2-DIY CFL reflectors. One of the

reflectors is 334 watts and the other is 300. The total amount of lumens for reflector #1 is

22,000+, and that light is roughly 1 to 2 inches away from the plants’ foliage, or the plants’ buds

during flowering.

Inverse Square Law: “Light diminishes at the square of the distance” (measured in feet)

Considering the Inverse Square Law, at an inch or two away from your plants, there is a

negligible loss in lumens—with all other factors mentioned in this guide being in place.

Nowadays, most people decide to go with a 600 or 1000-watt HPS for flowering. Many of these

same folk will proudly (and unintelligently) scream, "CFLs can't make dense buds…blah, blah,

blah.”

Remember, a 1,000-watt HPS will need to be kept at least 2-feet away from the top of the plant

or its foliage, oftentimes even further away. A 600-watt HPS will need to be kept 18-inches to

2-feet or more from plants, due to the intense amount of heat being generated—that’s unless a

“Cooltube” is being used, which will reduce your lumen output even further.

Some Fun Facts

A 1000-watt HPS has 140,000 lumens at 1-foot away / 35,000 lumens at 2-feet away.

A 600-watt HPS has 90,000 lumens at 1-foot away / 22,500 lumens at 2-feet away.

So, remember when I stated that my 334+ watt CFL grow light gives off 22,000+ lumens at

roughly 2-4 inches away from my plants? Well, YOU do the math, and compare that bit of info

to the “fun facts” above.

If you realized that 330 watts of CFLs can possibly outdo a 600-watt HPS—you are correct!

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6. Lower Humidity

If possible, lower RH. Lowering your grow area’s relative humidity won't help your buds get

bigger, or necessarily denser. It WILL affect your plants' transpiration, which arguably helps

with resin production.

Transpiration occurs less during periods of low humidity (i.e. below 40%), since plants want to

preserve their "water." Low relative humidity forces plants to create more resin to coat their

leaves, provide shade from bright light, and to help prevent the foliage from drying out.

The naysayers may often yap and nag, stating that keeping your RH lower than 35% in flower is

a problem; it must be 40%-50%, etc. The FACT of the matter is that low humidity does NOT

harm flowering plants.

If nothing else, low RH helps you prevent or minimize the dreaded risk of mold and some types

of fungus. Besides, plants seem to be more sensitive to humidity during the vegetation phase—

in my experience. Low humidity during vegetation doesn't help them, and could actually slow

down their growth.

If you want to possibly increase resin production and watch the trichomes start to stack up like

Legos, try running at humidity levels between 20 and 35%. I always do, and I’ll never look back!

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8. Close Enclosures There’s an unfortunate truth about compact fluorescent lights. Unfortunately, they give crappy

results IF there are no “nearby” walls to reflect the light and concentrate it back to the plants!

Ask yourself these questions:

Where are you growing your plants—in a large room or small room?

Are you using an enclosed space to grow your Cannabis plants, or in an open area?

What color are the walls in your grow area?

Growing your happy plant in a large, neutral-colored space such as a living room can kill your

chances of getting large, dense, sticky, potent green. Depending on the square footage, and the

position of the light on your plants relative to the walls—those lumens could be all over the

place. The light may appear to shine ON your plants, but the majority of the lumens are NOT.

Mylar reflects up to 95% of the light thrown at it. How can you make use of Mylar? Get yourself

a grow tent or equip the walls in your grow area with Mylar. Then, make sure your plants are as

close to the walls as possible, to capture as much of the light as possible.

The “grow bucket” below is perfect. Small, highly reflective and it holds up to 3-gallon pots.

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The 5 x 5 grow tent shown below is compact, reflective, and can work well for CFL grows.

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The 10 x 10 grow room will NEVER get dense buds with CFLs. Choose an HPS or MH instead!

Learn How to Build a Pro-Quality, High-Intensity CFL Grow Light. For LESS than $50!

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9. Cool Lights Last but definitely not least: Cool those lights!

Believe it or not, lack of light cooling is partly to blame for getting weak, airy fluff instead of

dense, potent ‘rocks.’ Even if you have everything else dialed in to a tee, too much light

radiating down on your plants can be a serious deal-breaker.

Don't be naive and assume what many others do—with devastating results—that heat is not an

issue when growing with energy-saving bulbs. CFL bulbs DO produce heat that must be

managed accordingly; they can and will throw your grow area well past 100° Fahrenheit if you

aren't careful and attentive.

So how DO you solve the problem with cooling down your lights?

1. Have a fan built into your reflector or into the TOP of your grow cab to pull light AWAY

from your bulbs; otherwise you are creating hotspots under the lights that can seriously

affect the flower structure, potency and more.

2. If integrating a cooling fan into your equipment isn’t an option, you can alternatively

take a personal fan (or desktop fan) and aim it so that it blows air up through the

bulbs—helping to cool them down. Note: this option is NOT as effective as pulling the

heat up away from the bulbs.

Here's a picture of how you want to equip your cab or reflector with exhaust, if possible:

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Unfortunately, this marks the end of the “Dense Buds Handbook.”

Remember to stay tuned in to the news and info at www.cfl-grow-light.com!

Add it to your bookmarks to stay updated with new articles, tips, tricks, pictures,

upcoming videos, fantastic insight, success stories, freebies and much more! You

can also follow me on Twitter and/or Facebook, if you so desire.

I wish you the best of success….and happy growing!

Yours Truly,

Rob A. Narley