High beds are a common and stylish solution to storage problems or limited space. Some beds are elevated only a few feet off the floor to allow for storage of boxes, containers, foldable furniture or other amenities. Other beds, called loft beds, are elevated higher still, to allow for usable furniture below them, such as desks, sofas, or tables. Requiring little more resources than the average bed, high beds are simple to construct even on a budget.

Saw fifteen 1-by-3-by-96-inch lumber boards into eight 71-inch long legs, two 46 1/2-inch long back filler pieces, six 2-inch long back filler pieces, two 56-inch long front filler pieces, two 7 1/2-inch long front filler pieces and two 40 1/2-inch end and top pieces. For the ladder, cut two 65 3/4-inch long ladder side rails, ten 10 3/8-inch long spacers, five 12 1/2-inch long treads and two 10-inch top spacers.

Cut four 1-by-8-by-120-inch lumber boards into four 37 1/2-inch long end planks and three 80-inch front and back rails.

Divide three 1-by-4-by-96-inch long lumber boards into two 37 1/2-inch long top planks, one 80-inch long top back rail, one 61-inch long guardrail, three 15-inch long upright rail pieces and six 2-inch filler pieces.

Saw one 2-by-4-by-96-inch long plank into one center support rail that measures 76 3/4 inches long.

Cut eleven 1-by-2-by-96-inch long boards into one 80-inch top back piece, two 75-inch cleats, fourteen 39-inch slats and one 61-inch long top rail.

Divide one 4-by-8-foot 3/4-inch thick piece of plywood into a sheet that measures 76 1/2 inches long by 39 inches wide.

Stand up two of the 71-inch long 1-by-3-inch legs and screw one of the 37 1/2-inch end planks between them, 2 inches from the bottom. Screw one of the 1-by-4-by-37 1/2-inch top planks 2 inches from the top. 2 inches below that, screw into place the second 1-by-8-by-37 1/2-inch plan. Repeat this for two more 1-by-3-71-inch legs. There should be 7/8 of an inch of space on the legs, on both sides of the boards. These form the end pieces.

Screw the first of the three 80-inch rails into to the end pieces, perpendicular to them, so that they are flush with its edges. The bottom planks of the end pieces should be even with the back rail. Screw the 1-by-3-by-80-inch back rail 2 inches from the top of the end pieces, between them as you did with the bottom rail. Lastly, secure the last two 1-by-8-by-80-inch rails into the end pieces, on the front and the back, at the level of the top end planks.

Fill the 2-inch gaps on the backside, between the floor and the bottom rail, between the two top rails, and between the top rail and the top of the bed, with the 1-by-3-by-2-inch filler pieces. Fill the space between the bottom and top rails with the 1-by-3-by-46 1/2-inch back fillers.

Screw the 56-inch long front fillers into the space between the top front rail and the floor, and the 7 1/2-inch filler pieces between the top rail and the top of the bed.

Glue and screw the remaining 71-inch long legs to the faces of each side of the bed, to hide the seams between the rails and the filler pieces.

Fix the 80-inch long 1-by-2-inch back piece into the back of the bed, atop the legs, using wood glue. It should be flush with each end of the bed, and with the back. Using the same glue, attach the 40 1/2-inch end and top pieces atop the end pieces, flush with the back piece.

Push into place the 75-inch cleats between the legs on the front and back sides of the bed, so that they’re flush. Secure them with wood glue and screws. Secure the 2-by-4-inch center support exactly in the center of the bed frame. Secure it with screws and wood glue.

Lay the slats across the cleats and center support, with approximately 4 inches between each one. Nail them into the center support and cleats with 2-inch nails. Lay the plywood overtop of them, leaving it loose for future maintenance.

Assemble the side-rail for the front side of the bed by gluing the 61-inch long guardrail across the three 15-inch upright rails, two inches from the top and flush with the edges of the outer two.

Fill the space between the top of the guardrail and the top of the uprights with the 1-by-4-by-2-inch filler pieces. Secure the remaining three rail filler pieces below the guardrail.

Glue the 1-by-2-by-61-inch top rail into place across the three uprights, so that it is flush with the edges on all sides.

Fit this guardrail assembly into position on the front of the bed, making it flush with one of the edges, leaving a space on the opposite end. Screw it into place from the inside.

Cut the of the ladder side rails and top spacers at a 75-degree angle off-square and the bottom at 15 degrees so that the ladder can rest flat. Cut the 10 3/8-inch spacers at 15 degrees to fit between the treads.

Attach the two side rails to the first set of spacers on the bottom, so that the spacers and the side rail are flush. Glue them into place and secure with screws. Glue the first ladder tread atop the spacers. Repeat through the fifth and final tread-spacer coupling. Finally, glue and screw into position the 10 3/8-inch top spacers atop the last ladder tread, so that it is flush with the ladder’s edges, ensuring that the cut lines align.

Fit the ladder into position between the gap made by the front guardrail assembly and glue it into place using a strong wood glue. From the inside of the bed, place screws through the ladder to hold it into position.

Tips: This bed is designed to be nearly 6 feet tall, allowing enough storage room underneath for almost any possession, as well as enough room for most furniture. This height can be made shorter by shortening the height of the legs.

Depending on the finished height of your bed, you may not need the ladder.

You’ll Need:

Measuring tape

Saw

15 lumber boards, 1-by-3-by-96-inch

4 lumber boards, 1-by-8-by-120-inch

3 lumber boards, 1-by-4-by-96-inch

1 lumber plank, 2-by-4-by-96-inch

11 lumber boards, 1-by-2-by-96-inch

1 plywood piece, 4-by-8-foot 3/4-inch thick

Wood glue

75-inch cleats

2-inch nails