Hoop House / Greenhouse Kit Instructions Version-1 · Hoop House / Greenhouse Kit Instructions...

BY: FUSION FUNDRAISING AND CO-PACKING LTD.

Hoop House / Greenhouse Kit Instructions

Version-1.0

WWW.123-greenhouse-gardening.com

Phone: 604-800-3843

Thank you for having a look at our Hoop House Greenhouse set up Instructions. If you have any questions please visit us at www.123-greenhouse-gardening.com . We can be reached using our contact

page. Or call us at 604-800-3843

Hoop House / Greenhouse Kit Instructions Version-1.0

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DIY Hoop House / Greenhouse Kits:

How to build a greenhouse with our– Hoop House

Greenhouse Kits



Table of Contents:

Potted Forest Hoop House Greenhouse Kit:

____________________________________________________

1) Introduction……………………………………….page 4

2) Choosing the “Right” Location………….page 6

3) Foundation Prep…………………………………page 7

4) Required Tools……………………………………page 10

5) Base………….………………………………………….page 11

6) Ground Hoop Stakes…………………………..page 14

7) Installing the Hoops…………………………..page 17

8) Installing the top perlin…………………….page 19

9) Bracing the Hoops………………………………page 22

10) Framing in the ends ………………………..page 24

11) Attaching Poly Channel ………………...page 28

12) Covering the Greenhouse……………...page 34

13) Diagrams: covering greenhouse…….page 39

14) Cover the Greenhouse using the Trenching

Technique…………………………………………..page44

15) Conclusion………………………………………page46



1) Introduction:

Hoop House Greenhouse Kit:

Thank you for considering or purchasing our Greenhouse

Kits.

If you ever have any questions please be sure to call us at

604-800-3843. Or send us an e-mail at

[email protected] with your inquiry.

There are many ways to build a Hoop House Greenhouse;

the following is only one version of building one.

The most important part of any Hoop House or Poly

Tunnel are the Hoops.

Everything else can pretty much be put together from

things that you pick up from Home Depot or hardware

store.

You may already have things that you can used to build

your hoop house.

The Hoops that we offer are 1 3/8” diameter, galvanized

steel tubing.

mailto:[email protected]



This is the same diameter tubing as used by many

greenhouse growers, and, being galvanized will never rust.

However, there are multiple ways to build them.

The following instructions are just our

recommendation. However, there are simpler or more

intricate ways that this can be done.

The key is to have the non-rusting galvanized hoops to

build with.

We have found that this style fits the basic needs of most

hobbyists, and they are the Number One used greenhouses

in North America. But please visit our website:

www.123greenhousegardening.com more information on

greenhouse gardening.

Contact us at: [email protected] Or 604-800-3484

http://www.123greenhousegardening.com/

mailto:[email protected]



2) Choosing the right location for your greenhouse:

The greenhouse should be located in a spot that

receives the most light throughout the day.

It is best to have the side (not the framed ends) of the

greenhouse facing south, so it receives the most

amount of light.

Utility Hook Ups:

If planning to have water and electrical hook up (note:

electrical for heaters etc. is not needed when using a Hoop

House), it is best to have these utilities readily accessible

for easy hook-up.

These can be run to your greenhouse; however it is easier

when it is built close to the house or other available

utilities.



3) Required Tools:

a. Drill b. Level c. Sledge hammer d. Measuring tape e. Saw

f. Shovel

g. Rake

h. Hack Saw



4) Foundation Preparation:

Ensure that the ground is as level as possible, the level

does not have to be perfect to build the Hoop House.

The greenhouse can also be levelled from the inside by

adding rock or wood chips (will be held in by 2x6’ base

boards – the wood used is preferably water treated or if

going natural Cedar is a good alternative, the frame is also a

good opportunity to use as a raised bed).

Site has been levelled and prepared. Can also level it by building your frame and adding soil, gravel, bark mulch or sand depending on what your plans are. Creates a raised bed as well.



Picture of ground cover ***Use rocks, wood chips, pavers, or grow directly into the ground.

Ground staples used to hold down ground cover



See an assembled 10’ wide hoop lying out in front. And the boards for the bottom band to the right. Hoop houses can be built to any height depending on the length of the ground stakes (1 5/8 tubing) that you decide to use. However 30” is recommended Refer to #6 “Ground stakes” for more details. ***Note: The taller the greenhouse the more Poly covering will need to be used.



5) Bottom Base Band/Frame Install:

Made using 2x4’s or 2x6’s, pressure treated or cedar.

2x6 Wooden Base Band, squared and secured with 2x2 cedar stakes. Cedar stakes hammered into ground, Frame is levelled and secured, using a wood screw, to the cedar stakes.

We used 2x6 weather treated lumber to make this 16x10 foot greenhouse bottom band. To make the 2x6 long enough we used a metal plate (found in your hardware store) as shown in



the pic, to attach two together.

1) Connect all four corners of the wood base band (Refer

to the graph illustration below).

2) Use the full length of a 10’ long 2x4 or 2x6, since the

Hoop house kits are 10’ wide.

a. ***Note: it is a good idea to measure the widths of

the hoops included in your kit.

****Note: Keep in mind when measuring the frame that it is

the inside measurements that are used (see graph for

example).

Having the base completed makes it easy to square and

level the greenhouse, using a framing square (again refer to

the illustration below).

Once the squaring is complete, the next step is measuring

out the stake posts and hammering them into the ground

can also be cemented in pre-dug holes).



Bird’s eye view of the brace band. Use a carpenter square to square up the frame, before securing it with the wood stakes. Once the wood stakes are secure to the frame - the 1 5/8” hoop ground stakes can be hammered/cemented into place.

**Note Inside measurements – measure for a 10’x10’ frame by the inside width of the wood frame. Using the graph the measurement would be taken from the inside boards.

A picture of the hoop ground stakes secured to the wood frame brace band.



****Once the wood frame has been squared the Wood stakes can be secured into the ground (using a sledge). The wood frame band can then be levelled (using a hand level) and drilled in place, at the level height, to the wood ground stakes.



6) 1 5/8” Tube Ground Stakes:

The Hoop ground stakes should be cut to at least 30”

long.

These stakes are made out of the 1 5/8” Galvanized tube

mentioned in the needed materials list at the beginning of

these instructions.

(*****Note: These can be found in the chain link fence

section of your local Hardware Store and then cut to size as

a convenience we also offer these Ground Stakes prepared).

This shows two of the 1 5/8” pipe stakes in position.



One of the 1 5/8” hoop ground stakes in place. These are secured by cementing them into the holes

*****************Note:******************

The ground stakes are the best way to anchor the

hoops. The hoops (included in the kit) fit into the 1 5/8”

ground stakes.

They can then be permanently secured by using self

tapping metal screws (as shown below).

One of the Kit’s hoops being secured into one of the ground stakes using a self tapping metal screw.



The 1 5/8 tubing can be secured to the wood frame using plumbers tape (can be found at local hardware store). Fasten the plumbers tape to the frame securing it around the pipe ground stake and drill 1 metal screw into the pipe.

The Ground stakes should be spaced approximately 5’ apart.



7) Kit- Hoop Install:

If the kit is for 10’ wide hoop sections the hoop will

come in the kit as 2 separate pieces. Each of the hoop tube

sections will have a green painted end.

The two un-painted sections will fit together to complete

the hoop.

Then it is a matter of securing the two sections together

using a metal screw, (note: make sure that the two sections

are secured while lying on level ground, so they are not

warped when they are in place.

Now that the 2 hoop pieces are connected to make the

complete hoop, they can be inserted into the galvanized

ground stakes that have been anchored in the ground and

secured to the wood base, leaving your Greenhouse very

sturdy.



These hoops come in two sections that can be laid out joined in the middle and fastened with a tech screw. The two painted ends are on the outside.

One side of a Hoop being secured to one of the 1 5/8” ground stakes (using a self tapping metal screw).

Hoops are secured into the ground stakes.



8) Adding the top purlin or spine of the greenhouse:

The purlin is made of 1 3/8” top fence post rail found in

the chain link fence section of your local Home depot.

Squish and bend each side of your pipe, to allow for easier

connection to the brace bands that will attach the purlin to

the end hoops, included with your kit.

Tubing laid out underneath to measure the proper length. If it is a 10’x 10’ than only one pull is needed.

Hose clamps (found in the plumbing section of your hardware store), can be used to secure the top pipe to the middle hoops.



A fuller view of the Frame coming together.

This perlin was made with a galvanized top tube rail pipe for a chain link fence. (this can be found at any Hardware or fencing store). ***Note: The end of the 1 3/8” pipe was squished. And a hole was drilled to fasten it to the brace and. A brace band is included with the kit. We squished the end of the tube and drilled a hole to bolt it to the brace band.



A picture of a frame coming together.



9) Bracing and levelling the greenhouse hoops:

The levelling of the Hoops is done, using the included brace

bands, and thick gauge wire that can be found at a local

hardware store.

***Note: 1 3/8” pipe can be used, in place of airplane cable,

in the same way the top rail, or purlin of the greenhouse

was secured. This will add extra strength. These pipes can

also be secured to the top of the hoops if you plan to grow

hanging baskets.

This shows the brace band wire assembly. **Note a washer can be used to help sandwich the wire to the brace band as the bolt is tightened.



The wire can be secured on to the hoops like the picture shows (the outside hoop having the wire higher than the inside).

Tension can be put on the wire by sliding the inside band higher or lower on the poll. When the perfect level is found (using a hand level to the side of the hoop, the bolt can be tightened on the hoop in place.

When the hoops are properly levelled a side rail or extra purlins (like the top purlin or rail) can be added. Materials that can be used: -wood -pipe -we supply poly channel with wiggle wire as well. This will ensure maximum strength for the greenhouse frame.



10) Framing in the ends of the greenhouse:

The ends can be framed in using either pressure treated or

cedar 2x4’s.

A 1 3/8” notch is cut away from the 2x4 to allow it to be bolted level into the hoop. *****Tip: if the notch is cut out too much stacking washers can be used as spacers to help with levelling.



Picture of the top of the door frame. Measurements must accommodate the door that is being used.

Another angled view showing the 1 3/8”notch cut out of the 2x4.



Completed front frame with Screen door installed. Can easily make a door as well. The framing should be completed before the poly cover is secured.



Here is a graph detailing the proper set up.

*****Tip: drill ¼” hole through top of hoop bow into the

notch then use 3” lag bolts to secure. Frame can then be

secured to the bottom greenhouse frame. Make sure to use

a level.



11) Attaching the poly channel or 1x2” wood strips

to hold the Poly:

On both end hoops, there will need to be a way to

attach the poly covering so that it can be pulled tight over

the hoops in between the two end frames and secured in

place.

You have 1 of two options at this point that you can do

to attach the poly covering to the greenhouse frame:

1) Option #1: Use poly clip -

a. A little more expensive

b. Great to use when it is time to replace the Poly

on the greenhouse

c. No Staples

d. Good when you plan on roll up side vents –

keep them closed during winter and colder

weather.



Here is a picture of the Poly Clip or “wiggle wire”. The poly is laid over the poly clip and the wiggle wire is inserted back and forth into the channel. This sandwiches the poly and pulls it tight over the frame.

The poly clip or wood strips need to be secured over the first and last hoops. The poly will be pulled tight over the inside hoops.



It helps to install the poly clip starting at the bottom of one of the hoops and continue to bend it around the hoop. *****Tip: use a “Zap Strap” instead of clamps, to secure the channel to the pipe as you drill metal screws for a permanent connection. You can keep on sliding the zap strap as you go, the poly channel will bend to the contour of the hoop.

If you look closely at the hoop in this picture you can see the zap straps.



Stretch the poly over the hoops and synch it in if using the poly clip. Adjust for wrinkles and synch in the other end. The poly clip pulls it tight. (The excess can be trimmed off). If using the wood strips stretch the plastic over the hoops and trim allowing for a roll of 4 times, allowing for a stronger staple hold.

Wiggle wire holding poly in place. This is a picture of the vented side (side is rolled up to allow for air flow – reason that you can’t see the poly).



2) Option #2: Use 1x2” Wood Strips-

a. These may need to soak it in water for a couple

of days to make it soft enough to bend around

your hoops, also may not need to do this. (See

below for instructions on notching the wood

strips to allow for an easier bend, this may also

not need to be done as well).

b. When it comes time to have to replace the poly

it can be a bit more of a nuisance to deal with

the staples. But this is an inexpensive way to go.

Clamps are also a good help in securing the wood strips. However the zap strap tip in the poly channel section works good here as well.

Make sure that there is about 12” of the Poly covering over hanging the greenhouse – enough to allow for roughly five folds then staple onto the 1x2 using ½” staples.



This comes down to personal preference, and budget. If you

are doing large greenhouse or more than one you may want

to go with the Poly clip to save on time. If it is a little hobby

house you may want to go with the 1x2 wood slats. Again

this comes down to personal preference.



Installation of clip or 1’x2” continued:

No matter the chosen option of installation, wood or clip,

either self tapping metal, or wood screws are suggested to

be used every 10 to 12 inches.

Start at the base of one end of the hoop and work around,

placing screws every 10 to 12 inches.

Either “zap straps” or clamps are suggested to help with the

installation.

3) Option #3: Wood Frame –

Frame in the end of the greenhouse with more 2”x4”s, as

shown in the instructions above. This will save on the

added cost of Poly Channel etc… One continuous piece of

poly can be used.



***Note: The ribs or hoops of a poly hoop tunnel should be

no further than 5 feet apart. For example if you are building

a 10’x10’ greenhouse, there would be 3 ribs or hoops, spaced

5’ apart each.

For extra strength and stability more hoops can be added

closer together.



12) Other Information for attaching the poly

covering without the use of poly channel(as

mentioned there are many options and solutions

in building a Hoop House):

a) Spacing of each of the Hoops is recommended at 5

ft.:



b) Drape the Poly Covering over the completed

Frame:

c) This is the excess that will be left over:



d) Start by pulling the poly down in the middle,

illustrated at the door Frame:

e) Attaching the poly – using 1”x2” wood strips or

battens.



f) The top Batten in place as in the illustration

above:

g) Continue down, pull and secure, pull and secure:



h) This shows the direction that you should take

in attaching the poly.

i) Once the ends have been secured the sides can be

secured to the bottom rail using battens:



13) Attaching poly to Frame by digging a trench –

in this Poly Tunnel building technique, wood

bottom band does not need to be used:

a) Dig a trench around the greenhouse:

b) Fill in the Trench covering the plastic. This will

pull the plastic tight over the Poly tunnel frame.



c) Start in the middle and work your way out while

filling the trench:



Conclusion:

Thank you for your interest in Potted Forest Greenhouse

Kits.

If you have any questions in regards to our kits, or

instructions we can be contacted by visiting our contact

page here: www.123-greenhouse-gardening.com/contact-us

Other uses for our Hoop House Kits :

A) Shelters

B) Garages

C) Chicken Coops

D) Sheds

E) Workshops

Thank you – and have a great time Gardening in your

Greenhouse!

http://www.123-greenhouse-gardening.com/contact-us

Hoop House / Greenhouse Kit Instructions Version-1 · Hoop House / Greenhouse Kit Instructions...

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