Home and Garden 2014

home & garden 2014

home & gardenspring 2014

home & garden

2 home & garden 2014

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No more restarts while mowing. The Blade Override feature conveniently stops the blade, but not the engine, so you can step away to pick up an item in the way or empty the grass bag. Comes standard with Personal Pace® self propel, Bag on Demand, washout port for easy cleaning and the 3 year warranties.

Montrose's Hardware Store

3home & garden 2014

Contributor In this issueLighting sets the stage for outdoor fun .......................................... 4

Add some fresh color to kitchen cabinets ....................................... 6

Tackle spring cleaning with the environment in mind ................... 7

Composting made simple .............................................................. 8

Fall in love with lavender ............................................................. 10

Shop smart .................................................................................. 12

Vegetable gardening for beginners ............................................... 14

home & garden 2014Published by the Montrose daily Press

Linda Corwine McIntosh

CSU Advanced Master Gardener

1996 Colorado Master Gardener of the year

Master Composter

ISA Certified Arborist

Commercial Pesticide Applicator

Ouray County Weed Board Member

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Lighting sets the stage for outdoor fun

Tis the season for making changes in and around the home. The arrival of warmer weather renews home-

owners’ vigor for various home improvement projects, and many have grand plans for interior and exterior renova-tions as they prep their living spaces for comfort, beauty and entertaining opportunities. While there are many worthy projects to pursue, adding outdoor lighting to a home can help increase its value and make the home safer and more attractive in the evening hours. According to the American Lighting Association, with

a few updates to outside lighting, families can make even better use of their homes at night. Adding outdoor light-ing is easier and less expensive than many homeowners may know, allowing them to transform an existing patio, deck or pool area into an enjoyable nighttime retreat. Pool

parties, dinners on the patio or barbecues with neighbors become even more memorable when outdoor lighting is added or improved. But homeowners who want to install or upgrade their outdoor lighting should consider the fol-lowing tips, courtesy of ALA.

• Improve navigation. Lighting is typically layered into a room or outdoor space in three ways: overhead, task and ambient. Even outdoors, where there are no typical boundaries and borders, those three layers are necessary. Outdoor overhead lighting should improve visibility on steps, paths and walking surfaces, especially where there’s a bend or an intersection. Task lighting can be used around cooking or gardening areas. Ambient light will cast a comforting glow around any outdoor space.• Enhance security. To improve visibility and security, R

home & garden 2014 5

Outdoor lighting can play up the more decorative features of a yard, including flower beds.

combine a motion detector with a sconce to illuminate dark corners or entryways. Be sure to aim lights away from the door to improve visibility. Lanterns on either side of the door can give a home a warm, welcoming appearance and improve the safety of entryways.• Create outdoor rooms. Outdoor lighting

at the borders of a space is a great way to cre-ate barriers, both vertically and horizontally. Lights in a tree create something akin to a chandelier hung in the middle of the sky, and even accent lights in the general area of the edge of a patio, deck or porch will shine across the space and provide enough of a comfort level for people to understand where things are.• Reduce glare. Outdoor lighting that casts

a glare can be blinding, as can light that’s too bright. Lighting along paths should be cast downward, with fixtures that are hooded. A variety of lighting options will create layers, allowing you to add or subtract as neces-sary. Exterior-safe dimmers also can provide flexible control over the level of light, as can movable fixtures added to a patio or porch.• Add decorative elements. Just as arbors,

pergolas, patios and other outdoor ele-ments help to enhance the style of an out-door space, so, too, can lighting contribute to a well-designed landscape. Lighting should play up decorative features of a yard and add the ambience that homeowners desire. Step lights make passage safe while also highlighting molding or trim details. An outdoor chandelier can make for a wonderful accent during dinnertime on the deck or under a pergola. Patio lights provide atmosphere as well as illumination for cooking outside.• Enhance views from inside. Outdoor

lighting can make the view from inside pleasant and enjoyable. Use a variety of lights, including spotlights on trees, lights dotted along pathways and accent lights on unique landscape features, to create an idyl-lic landscape visible from inside the home.Outdoor lighting enhances functionality

of yards and landscapes while making such areas safer for homeowners and their guests once the sun has gone down. X


Add some fresh color to kitchen cabinets

Many homeowners dream of giving their kitchens a full-scale remodel. Though such a project can give

a kitchen an entirely new look, that look does not come cheap. According to Remodeling magazine’s 2013 “Cost vs. Value Report,” homeowners can expect to spend more than $53,000 on a major kitchen remodel and recoup just below 70 percent of that cost at resale. So while the idea of a full-scale kitchen remodel might be a dream project, the cost of such an undertaking is beyond many home-owners’ budgets.But homeowners who cannot afford a full remodel can

still give their kitchens a new look and can do so for rela-tively little money. Painting kitchen cabinets a new color or simply giving fading cabinets a fresh coat of paint can instantly add life to a kitchen, giving the room an entirely different feel without breaking the bank. The following are a few tips for homeowners planning to paint their kitchen cabinets.

• Assess your existing cabinets. Some cabinet materials, including wood and metal, can be repainted without much of a fuss. But other materials, including plastic laminate, are not so amenable to repainting, and will likely require specialty paints. Homeowners with plastic laminate cabinets should first paint a spot or two with a sample paint, being careful to choose a spot that’s concealed. If the paint bonds well to the plastic laminate, then you can go forward and buy enough paint to redo all of the cabinets. If the paint does not take, consult a professional to find a paint that’s likely to be a better fit. Expect this process to be one of trial and error.• Plan for ornate cabinets to take a little longer. Paint-

ing projects will go faster when cabinets have flat fronts, but they can take considerably longer when cabinets are unique and more detailed. If your cabinets are ornate, then factor this extra time into your schedule.

• Remove the doors and hardware. When painting cabi-nets, it’s best to essentially disassemble them, removing the doors, handles, knobs, latches, and any additional hardware. When removing hardware, be sure to set them aside in clearly marked plastic bags so it’s easier to reassemble the cabinets once the fresh coat of paint has dried. As doors are removed, number each door and its cor-

responding location, much like products that require as-sembly are numbered at the factory. This makes it easier to reassemble and ensures the cabinets and their hinges will align properly once you have finished painting.• Don’t paint dirty surfaces. Cabinet surfaces have likely

collected their share of dirt, grease and grime over the years, so you want to clean these surfaces thoroughly before painting. Once surfaces have been cleaned, rinse them off and give them ample time to dry.• Sand the surfaces. Once the surfaces have been

cleaned and are completely dry, it’s time to start sand-ing them. Lightly sand the doors using a wood sanding block, working to create a firm base to which fresh paint can easily adhere. Areas that are most exposed to wear and tear may require some extra elbow grease, and some areas may be especially flaky. When old paint is flaking off, this means the previous finish did not adhere very well to the surface, which is not necessarily uncom-mon in kitchens, where moisture and grease residue can

make it harder for paint to adhere to the surface. In such instances, sand the flaky areas to the bare wood before spot-priming with a primer or sealer designed for areas with heavy staining. After all of the sanding is complete, vacuum the surfaces to ensure there is no leftover sand-ing dust before painting.• Apply primer-sealer. Primer-sealer ensures the fresh

paint will bond well to the surfaces, preventing condi-tions like flaking in the future.• Paint the cabinets. After the primer-sealer has been

applied, it’s time to paint the cabinets. Begin with the inside edges and openings of the face frames, followed by the outer cabinet sides and then the front of the frames. Then move on to the cabinet doors and any drawer fronts you might be painting as well. Cabinets with more elaborate designs require closer attention to detail than flat cabinets. When painting, opt for thin coats, which dry more quickly and also create fewer visible brush-strokes. When applying multiple coats, allow the paint ample time to dry between coats. Four hours between coats is a good rule of thumb, and lightly resand all sur-faces before applying the second and final coat of paint. • Reassemble the cabinets. Once the final coat of paint

has fully dried, carefully reassemble your cabinets and then enjoy the fresh and inexpensive new look that your freshly painted cabinets have created. X

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Freshly painted cabinets can give a kitchen an entirely new and fresh look at a fraction of the cost of a full-scale kitchen remodel.

7home & garden 2014

tackle spring cleaning with the environment in mind

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Spring is a time of year when many people resolve to give their homes or

apartments a thorough cleaning. Spring cleaning projects help people revitalize their homes for the warm months ahead, when windows are once again opened, fresh air pervades homes and items that might have accumulated over a dark and dreary winter have become a distant memory.Many families have spring cleaning rituals

that allow them to effi ciently clean their homes in a single weekend. But it’s just as important for spring cleaners to place as great an emphasis on the environment as they do on effi ciency when cleaning a home. Eco-friendly spring cleaning practices produce less waste and rely on less chemicals to rejuvenate a home and get it ready for those seasons when huddling inside under the covers takes a backseat to lounging around the house as fresh air washes into the home. The following are a handful of ways to effi ciently clean a home while also protecting the environment.

• Clear out the clutter. Clutter is an en-emy to homeowners and the environment alike. That’s because addressing clutter is often an ineffi cient process in which homeowners methodically go through items that have accumulated over the years, individually choosing which items to keep and which items to discard. Clut-ter can also prove harmful to the environ-ment because rooms fi lled with clutter tend to collect dust, reducing air quality and leading to more indoor air pollution that can prove harmful to human health. When sifting through clutter in a home,

discard those items that have gone ignored for years, as they likely have little or no fi nancial value and it’s safe to assume they serve no practical purpose as well. Once clutter has been cleared out, prevent more of it from accumulating by making a conscious effort to discard items once they no longer serve any practical purpose. This includes old newspapers and magazines, as well as any other items that are likely to sit in a pile or on a shelf for months on end. Preventing the buildup of clutter reduces the amount of time you need to spend spring cleaning next year while also improving indoor air quality.• Use cleaners only when windows are

open. Many people get a head start on spring cleaning in late winter, when the weather might have started to warm up but has not yet warmed to the point when windows throughout the home can be

opened. Though there’s nothing wrong with starting early, avoid using cleaning products on days when you can’t open the windows. Many cleaning products contain ample or even just trace amounts of chemicals that can compromise indoor air quality and may exacerbate existing medi-cal conditions like respiratory ailments. When using cleaning products, try to do so only when the windows are open and fresh air can enter the home.• Ensure appliances are working at peak

effi ciency. Spring cleaning is a great time to inspect appliances to make sure they are operating effi ciently. Clean or replace fi lters on window air conditioning units. Dusty or dirty fi lters will force the air conditioner to work harder and use more energy to cool a room. In addition, dirty or dusty fi lters make units less effi cient, which means rooms won’t cool as quickly on those scorching summer afternoons. Appliances forced to work harder also cost more money, and those costs can be considerable.When checking appliances, be sure to

check the refrigerator as well. Refrigerators are plugged in all day long, and those that are not operating at peak effi ciency can cost you a lot of money in the long run. Periodically clean the coils on the back of your refrigerator so it can operate more effi ciently, saving energy and money.Vacuum cleaners should also be inspected

before each use to make sure reels are not covered in hair, which can make it nearly impossible for the machine to collect dirt and dust from the fl oors.• Use reusable cloths. Another way to

turn spring cleaning into a more eco-friendly affair is to forgo using paper towels in favor of reusable cloths. Reusable wash cloths can be just as effective at wip-ing down counters as paper towels, which require more and more trees to be cut down and eventually end up in landfi lls. If you are feeling especially eco-friendly, you can go the extra mile and create your own reusable cleaning cloths out of old clothes or linens, saving you money and making use of items that might otherwise have been headed straight for a landfi ll.Spring cleaning can rejuvenate a home

after a long winter. Emphasizing eco-friendly techniques when cleaning can ensure your home’s revival is as benefi cial to the environment as it is to the home’s inhabitants. X

Homeowners should periodically inspect their appliances, including vacuum cleaners, to ensure they are working at peak effi ciency and not expending excess energy.


Composting made simple

By Linda Corwine MCintosh

Do you know that composting will not only enable you to help your plants thrive, but it can also be

a wonderful way to save money on soil improvements? It can even reduce your yard waste volume by 50 to 75 percent! You may have heard that good compost requires a bal-

ance of carbon and nitrogen and decided “this sounds too complicated”, and never gave it a try. But it doesn’t need to be difficult. Simply think of carbon as brown stuff, such as fallen leaves and dried material. Think of the nitrogen as green material, consisting of green things such as grass clippings or an old head of lettuce that was left in the refrigerator past its prime. Merely layer the pile with brown (carbon) and green (nitrogen) and water it once in a while, and you’re making compost!

• Building a bin — You can always make a compost pile on the ground, but a bin will give your area a neat, tidy appearance and help keep critters out of it. I think a bin made from old wooden pallets (that would otherwise be thrown away) or store-bought timbers works well. Most bins are usually about 3 feet by 3 feet. You could even construct a simple wire cage made out of chicken wire and a few T-posts for support. A good way to get air circulation and moisture into the center of the pile is to install a central column made out of PVC pipe with ¾-inch holes drilled in it running down the sides of the pipe. Secure it into the ground and add your composting materials around it. A garbage can with a clamp-on lid could also be used. Drill ¾-inch holes every two to three inches down the sides of the container to create cross ventilation. You can then add your materials and turn it on its side and roll it a few times. Mixing or “turning the pile” will help the material to decompose faster and eliminate odor and insects. Be sure to place the bin in a location that receives several hours of sun.Having two or three bins is helpful. One can be used as

an active bin for adding materials. The second for com-post that you’re letting rest while it finishes composting, and a third for the completed or finished compost. • Water — Water is necessary to make the pile de-

compose. However adding too much water, can lead to a condition known as an anaerobic pile. This is when the pile is simply rotting, resulting in a foul odor. The

moisture in the pile should ideally be kept near the level of a wrung out sponge. You can usually figure out if the pile is too dry when you’re mixing the compost material. If the pile does become a bit too dry, or wet, it will be forgiving and will start working again once the moisture content is correct.• Add a variety of materials — Don’t limit yourself to

composting only fruits, vegetables, grass clippings and leaves. There’s a vast assortment of things out there just dying to be composted. Your full vacuum cleaner bag, old cotton clothing that no one else wants, (remove plas-tic buttons and metal zippers) old toilet paper or paper towel rolls, egg cartons, eggshells, coffee grounds with the filter, newspapers, hair, crab or lobster shells, and even feathers can all be composted. Most annual weeds can also be composted, as long as they haven’t gone to seed.• Careful what you add — Some things will make

the compost pile stop working, or cause problems if the material is used. Cooked meat, dairy products, and grease should not be added to the compost. Avoid put-ting weed seed, especially from hard to kill weeds, into the pile. Roots from Bindweed or Russian Knapweed should be avoided. Be careful of adding manure. It can contain weed seeds and also herbicide residue, and may be high in salt. Cigarette butts should not be composted because of their high nicotine content and inability to decompose. Sticks, rose canes, and evergreen branches take quite a while to decompose. If you have a chipper, it would be best to chop them into fine pieces, since smaller pieces will decompose faster. • Using coarser pieces of compost — Coarse ma-

terials are actually beneficial because they increase the movement of water, air, and nutrients in the soil. Using very fine materials can lead to soil complications. Ap-proximately a 1 to 1 ½ inch layer of compost should be worked into the soil. Too much compost in the soil will act like a sponge, holding too much moisture.• Kids seem to enjoy composting — Most kids love

learning how things decompose as they add materials to the compost pile. Let them come up with a variety of materials to be composted. They can monitor how long it takes different products to breakdown. Use the op-portunity to have fun with the kids, talk with them, and learn together. X

9home & garden 2014

• Soil blend ingredients (compost, coir, peatmoss, pearlite, worm castings, O.M.R.I. Organic fertilizer, barkfi nes, sea kelps, guano’s, neem, fulvic & humic acids, bloodmeal, bone meal, fi sh emulsion, rock phosphate, green sand, and numerous organic ingredients.)

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Fall in love with lavenderBy Linda Corwine MCintosh

Have you noticed? Lavender is taking the country by storm. Americans seem to have a real love affair

with it. Lavender has moved from the garden into our lives, and

is being used in all kinds of applications. It’s found its way into everything from wedding themes, to jewelry. Cooks are using lavender in cakes, cookies, breads, jams, jelly and salsa. Some find it useful in making sachet’s, wreaths and arrangements. We also find it used as a fragrance in lotions and room fresheners, as well as aromatherapy. You can find it as an occasional ingredient in wine and beer. Honey made from the pollen of lavender flowers has a unique hint of lavender flavor. It’s even being added to some vinegars. Oh, and did I forget to mention, it’s a ter-rific plant to use in your landscape!Many people are planting it because it’s really not dif-

ficult to grow! Our alkaline soils create a difficult envi-ronment for many plants, but lavender is fairly tolerant of our soil, within limits. It loves sunny, rocky habitats, making it an ideal plant for our area. Another great thing about lavender is that it has very few

pest or disease problems. Once established, it becomes a great xeriscape plant, being drought tolerant. Mature plants only need to be watered about once every two to three weeks until the flower buds form. Then watering them once or twice weekly until you harvest flowers will keep them happy.I imagine right about now you’re thinking of lavender-

colored lavender, but do you know that lavender plants’ flowers can also be white, pink, blue, and all shades of purple? Better yet, the flowers of some varieties can some-times be evergreen in color, providing year-round interest. If you’re thinking of trying your hand at growing lav-

ender, you should be aware that there are many different kinds. One that does well in our area is Lavandula angus-tifolia, also called “English lavender,” although it is not native to England. These plants are usually 12-30 inches tall and 18-24 inches wide. These plants are usually propagated from cuttings rather than grown from seeds to ensure more consistent size, color, and bloom times. Another variety that does well here is, Lavandula x

intermedia commonly referred to as Lavandin. This is a hybrid of Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula latifolias. These plants are generally larger, being 18-36 inches tall and 24-36 inches wide. They bloom only once, later in

the summer and have a sterile seed, so they won’t spread to areas where you don’t want them to grow. Take note that “French” and “Spanish” lavender variet-

ies are not cold hardy in Colorado. But then you could always use them as annuals in containers and beds. If you’re thinking of planting lavender, think Mediter-

ranean. Now that sounds fun! Well, actually you should think Mediterranean, Southern Europe, and South Africa because that’s where lavender is native. Re-creating similar growing conditions such as a sunny location, and provid-ing a site with well-drained soil that has been amended with bark chips or compost to a depth of about 6 to 8 inches will make your plant feel right at home. However, if you’re looking for a specimen plant in your

garden, lavender is not the plant for you. Planted by itself, the flowers are not considered showy. However, when planted with other perennials or in a “mass planting,” you’ll get a great look. Your mature lavender plants will usually only need to be

watered about once every two to three weeks. Once the flower buds form, water it once or twice weekly until you harvest flowers. If your plants have been well mulched they will require less watering. Lavender will not tolerate being over-watered!

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11home & garden 2014

Spring Has Sprung at

Turn North o� of San Juan Ave. Bypass on 6530 Rd. Go 2 miles & look for our sign on the left.

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• Come see Corky, the Grand Junction Rockies mascot on Saturday from noon – 1 p.m. and get an autograph.

• Come for breakfast both days from 8:30 -10 a.m. Served by the Lee Marts VFW Post 3571 and Ladies Auxiliary for a building fundraiser.

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Lavender is an easy plant to care for. Because lavender flowers on new growth, remove approximately one third of the top of the plant in the spring to produce new flowers. If you wish to harvest your lavender, it’s best to do so in the morning, just when the bot-

tom third of the flower spike has opened. Hang small bundles of the plants upside-down, by their stems, in a cool, dry, dark area until they dry. The sky is the limit with what you choose to do with the plants after the harvest. Enjoy-

ing them to the fullest is the easy part!If you find all of this intriguing, you may want to attend the lavender festival in Pali-

sade, July 13, or perhaps join the Lavender Association of Western Colorado. Contact the Montrose CSU Extension office for information on this topic and for information on upcoming lavender programs in our area. X

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Shop SmArtBy Linda Corwine MCintosh

Before you hit the garden center to buy that new tree, here are a few tips to help you select a tree that will provide you, and future generations, years of happiness.

I know that we all like to get a good deal, and it can be hard to resist a tree that is marked down, but it just could be that a “good deal” tree will cost you more in the long run. Planting a great tree can mean the difference between one that will stand proud and tall for years to come, or one that will be subject to insect attacks, disease and pre-mature death. To help you find that great tree, here is some information that will help with your selection. Before you buy your new tree, take a good look at the trunk. If the lower branches of

the trunk come together in a “V” shape, and the connection resembles a zipper extend-ing downward, walk away from it. This has a very weak branch attachment, and in time, the tree could easily split in half. Trees with “U” shaped branch attachments are a much better choice. Another tree to pass by would be one with branches that hang toward the ground

(unless it’s a weeping variety). Avoid a tree with branches that extend nearly straight out. The ideal branch angles should be at 10 o’clock or 2 o’clock. A quality tree will also have alternating branches along the trunk, rather than a lot of branches emerging from one central point. Trees that are sold as “clump trees”, such as Aspen, should not have trunks that wrap

around or rub against each other. This can create a place for disease to enter and can eventually kill the tree.I find many people want a tree that will grow fast, but a tree that grows quickly will

usually die quickly! The wood of fast growing trees is often brittle and can easily break. Also, insects are attracted to these trees and they often fall victim to disease. Some great trees that you might want to put on your shopping list include Pink Idaho

Locust, Radiant Crab (holds its fruit for birds in winter), Russian Hawthorn, Winter King Hawthorn, Swedish Columnar Aspen, Autumn Blaze Maple, Autumn Blaze Ornamental Pear, Sensation Boxelder (doesn’t get boxelder bugs), Big Tooth Maple, English Oak, Bur Oak, Swamp white Oak, London Planetree, Sensation Boxelder, Kentucky Coffeetree, Catalpa, Lanceleaf Cottonwood, Narrowleaf Cottonwood, Acer Negundo Maple, Fruitless Mulberry, Ginko, Horsechestnut, American Elm, Lacebark Elm, Pioneer elm, American Linden, Littleleaf Linden, Greenspire Linden, Lacebark Pine, White Fir and Bristlecone Pine.

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You might want to avoid Aspen, Globe Willows, Austrees and Silver Maples because of their bad growth habits and problems. Ash trees have always been considered great trees, but if the Emerald Ash Borer reaches our area, ash trees could be in serious danger of attack, which could lead to their demise. When you purchase any one of these species you’re buying potential problems. After you’ve chosen your tree in the nursery, take a close look at it for insects, scars,

cracks, or dents in the trunk. Trees with such defects are best avoided. The root system of the tree is a part of the tree that is too often overlooked. You know,

out of sight, out of mind. But this will be the tree’s anchor, while providing nutrients, water, and stability for the tree for years to come. So, before you buy your tree, if pos-sible, lift it up (by the pot, not the trunk). If it feels extremely heavy for its size, the pot contains a lot of soil and very few roots. On the other hand, if the tree feels extremely light, the roots are most likely wound around in the pot, which can lead to root girdling and serious problems. You may even want to ask your nursery worker if you can take a peek at the roots before you buy it.I hope these tips help you choose a tree that will provide you and future generations

years of happiness. I love the saying, “The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The next best time is, today!” X

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Vegetable gardening for beginnersBy Linda Corwine MCintosh

I bet you’ve noticed the cost of food seems to be rising every day. One way to combat this is by planting your

own vegetable garden. A vegetable garden can help you save money, and, you’ll experience the freshest produce possible while finding out it’s fun and rewarding. Many people have even discovered that gardening can be a way of bringing the family together with hands-on growing

experience.All you need is a level garden spot with plenty of

sunlight, available water, and you’re well on your way. Approximately 100 square feet or less per person in your household will give you a very functional garden. Begin by growing the easiest crops the first year. Later, as your skills develop, you may want to increase your varieties and the garden’s size.Good soil is the key to successful gardening, but don’t

worry if yours is less than perfect. It can be improved

by amending it with organic materials. Adding approxi-mately 3 cubic yards of organic matter per 1,000 square feet every year until your soil has good texture is advised. This is the equivalent of 1 inch of amendment on the soil surface. This should then be worked into the soil. You’ll soon find your soil, and produce, will get better with every passing year.Cool season crops, such as peas, carrots, onions, radish,

lettuce and spinach should be started in the early spring because, as the name implies, they prefer cool tempera-

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tures. Crops such as tomatoes and peppers prefer warm temperatures and should not be planted until air and soil temperatures warm, and the danger of frost has passed. Placing a floating row cover, or Wall-o-Waters over these plants will enable you to plant a few weeks earlier. Tomatoes seem to be one of the most popular vegetables grown in the garden and

nothing tastes quite a good as a fresh-picked tomato. The most difficult part of tomato gardening may be choosing a variety. With so many to choose from, it can be a bit confusing so here’s a few tips that may help. First, buying disease resistant tomatoes is a good idea. The tag may say V or F for determining the disease that they are resistant to. Next, look for stout, shorter plants. You may want to know if the tomato is determinate or indeterminate. Indeterminate varieties will produce fruit throughout the growing season. Determinate varieties will produce all of their fruit at one time, which could be ideal if you are using them for canning. Strange as it may sound, your new tomato plant should be planted a bit horizontal, in the shape of an “L”. Gently lay the plant in a shallow trench the length of the stem, covering it with soil up to the first lower leaves. Pepper plants can be planted similarly to tomatoes. Just be careful not to bend and break them. It’s best to support tomato plants. A sturdy cage will prevent them from ly-ing on the ground. Tomatoes and peppers both need to be kept evenly moist! Mulching the plants with grass clippings (free of herbicides) or straw, can help moderate moisture. With so many unusual varieties, potatoes can be a fun crop to grow. Always buy dis-

ease free potato starts. A day or two before planting, use a sharp, clean knife to slice the potatoes into sections. Each section should be approximately 1 1/2-2 inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 “eyes” or buds. In a day or so, your potato “seed” will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help to prevent it from rotting once planted. Next, dig a 4-inch deep trench to plant the potatoes in and cover them with 2 inches of soil. A couple of times a year, add soil around the plant. Be sure to keep the plants moist throughout the season. Once again, mulch will help. Carrots are a great back yard garden crop. Note that half-long varieties of carrots will

do better in poorer soils that have not been improved over the years. Onions are also a great crop. They can be planted from seed in the garden as soon as the soil can be worked, or planted from “sets” directly into the soil. If you plant seeds, you’ll need to thin them at some point to keep them from becoming overcrowded. Even though it’s a little more work, onions grown from seeds will actually store better than sets. After all danger of frost has passed, you can also plant bush beans for an early crop,

and pole beans for a later crop. Pumpkins can be planted on the edge of the garden so they can spread on uncultivated ground, or, you may want to try bush varieties of squash, which will take less garden space.Hoeing or pulling any weeds while they are still small will make the inevitable weeding

a lot easier. Mulching the garden with herbicide free grass clippings will help cool the soil on hot summer days, retain moisture, and keep weeds at bay.So what are you waiting for? There’s no better time than the present to give vegetable

gardening a try, and just think of the rewarding feeling you’ll get when you say to your-self, “I grew this!” X

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Look Up and Live.Do-it-yourself projects can be overwhelming, and you can sometimes find yourself in over your head. However, that is never an ex-cuse for not knowing what is actually over your head, as in overhead elec-tric wires. Knowing where power lines and other potential haz-ards are should be part of the planning process for any do-it-yourself project.

Before starting a job, survey the area to find any power lines or other poten-tial hazards. If you discov-er a possible hazard, take the proper steps to avoid it and make sure everyone involved in the project is aware of it. Other safety tips to keep in mind for do-it-yourself projects include:

If you do find yourself in over your head, don’t just wing it, especially when it comes to working with elec-tricity. Call a licensed professional to help you finish the job.

For more information on electrical safety, go to www.SafeElectricity.org.

• Use caution when using long tools like ladders, pool skimmers, and pruning poles to keep them from getting near power lines.

• Keep equipment and yourself at least 10 feet from power lines. • Never trim trees near power lines. Leave that to the professionals. • Never use water or blower extensions to clean gutters near electric

lines. Contact a professional maintenance contractor. • Use only extension cords that are rated for outdoor use when

working outside. Keep your work area tidy, and do not allow your power cords to tangle.

• Use heavy-duty, three-prong extension cords for tools with three-prong plugs. Never remove or bend back the third prong on ex-tension cords. It is a safety feature designed to reduce the risk of electrocution or shock.

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Home and Garden 2014

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Transcript of Home and Garden 2014