History of textilePresented by-

Content: What is textile? History of several fabric Stages of textile Ancient & current processing of textile Textiles during industrial revolution Early inventions Modern developments Small brief on current textile world Bangladesh’s textile situation

What is textile: A textile is any kind of woven, knitted, knotted or

tufted clothe, or a non-woven fabric (a cloth made of fibers that have been bonded into a fabric, e.g. felt). Textile has traditionally meant a woven fabric. The term comes from a Latin word taxere, meaning to weave. A textile is made from fiber or other extended linear materials such as thread or yarn. The various categories of textiles include woven, crochet, knitted, knotted or tufted cloth, and non-woven fabrics such as felt. Materials such as fiberglass, which are made from fibers dispersed in a matrix of another material are called composite materials rather than textiles.

History of several fabric: Yarn, fabrics, and tools for spinning and weaving have been found from the relics of the early human habitations. Linen fabrics were discovered in Egypt around 5000 B.C. Woolen textiles from the early Bronze Age in Scandinavia and Switzerland have also been found centuries ago. Cotton has been spun and woven in India since 3000 B.C., and silk has been woven in China since 1000 B.C. Around the 4th century A.D., Constantinople began to weave the raw silk imported from China. Many textiles have been in use for almost a millennium, while others use artificial fibers and are recent inventions. Therange of fibers has increased in the last100 years. The first synthetics were made in the1920s and1930s.

Stages in Textiles

Ancient & current processing of textile

In this section we discuss and compare the ancient textile processing technique with the current one. We can know here the revolution of textile technology.

SPINNING Ancient Spinning: 20,000 years ago, tufts of animal hair or plant fiber are rolled down the thigh with the hand, and additional tufts are added as needed until the desired length of spun fiber is achieved. Later, the fiber is fastened to a stone which is twirled round until the yarn is sufficiently twisted, whereupon it is wound upon the stone and the process repeated over and over

The next method of spinning yarn is with the spindle, a straight stick eight to twelve inches long on which the yarn is wound after twisting.

A spinning wheel is a device for spinning thread or yarn from natural or synthetic fibers. Spinning wheels appeared in Asia, probably in the 11th century, and very gradually replaced hand spinning with spindle and distaff. Spinning machinery, such as the spinning jenny and spinning frame, displaced the spinning wheel during the Industrial Revolution.

Present spinning: Most spinning now is done

using break or open-end spinning, this is a technique where the staples are blown by air into a rotating drum, where they attach themselves to the tail of formed yarn that is continually being drawn out of the chamber. Other methods of break spinning use needles and electrostatic forces. This method has replaced the older methods of ring and mule spinning. It is also easily adapted for artificial fibers.

Weaving ancient weaving: There are some indications that weaving was already known in the Paleolithic era. An indistinct textile impression has been found at Pavlov, Moravia. Neolithic textiles are well known from finds from the advanced civilization preserved in the pile dwellings in Switzerland. One extant fragment from the Neolithic was found in Fayum, at a site dated to about 5000 BC. This fragment is woven at about 12 threads by 9 threads per cm in a plain weave.Flax was the predominant fiber in Egypt at this time (3600 BC) and continued popularity in the Nile Valley, though wool became the primary fiber used in other cultures around 2000 BC

Present weaving: The weaving process uses a loom. The length way threads are known as the warp, and the cross way threads are known as the weft. The warp which must be strong needs to be presented to loom on a warp beam. The weft passes across the loom in a shuttle, that carries the yarn on a pirn. These pirns are automatically changed by the loom. Thus, the yarn needs to be wrapped onto a beam, and onto pirns before weaving can commence.

A draper loom A wrapper

Textiles during industrial revolutionThe First Industrial Revolution between

1750 and 1850 The second phase or Second Industrial

Revolution between 1860 and 1900 The three key drivers in these changes

were textile manufacturing, iron founding and steam power

Reasons for revolutions in textilesBefore 17th century, people manufacture

goods in their homeThey are transported throughout the country

through river or by horsesNeed for more goods led to the industrial

revolution in early 18th century

Early inventionsThe only surviving example of a Spinning

Mule built by the inventor Samuel CromptonIn 1764 James Hargreaves invented Spinning

Jenny & Richard Arkwright invented water frame.

Samuel Crompton's Spinning Mule invented in 1779

This was patented in 1769 and so came out of patent in 1783

In 1804 Joseph Marie Jacquard invented the Jacquard Loom

Early inventions1856 William Perkin invented the first

synthetic dye.The end of the patent was rapidly followed by

the erection of many cotton mills Similar technology was subsequently applied

to spinning worsted yarn for various textiles and flax for linen

Modern developmentsRing spinning technology had successfully

replaced the spinning mule, with mills having been converted mules to rings

In the 1970s, the depleted industry was challenged by a new technology open-end or break spinning

1978 Carrington Viyella opened a factory to do open-end spinning in Atherton

This was the first new textile production facility in Lancashire since 1929

Global textiles –Fact sheet Top 5 cotton bale producers

Country No of bales (in Millions/yr)

China 25.3

India 20.8

United States 19.2

Pakistan 11.7

Brazil 7.2

Major cotton producers

25%

21%

12%8%

6%

4%

25%

World’s Major Cotton Producers

China

US

India

Pakistan

Uzbeikistan

Turkey

Others

Global total production and consumption of fiber

Global focus

Part of Asian counties in textilesAsian countries are major producers of fiber,

yarn, fabrics and garments EU, USA and other countries depend mainly

on south Asian nations especially China and India & bangladesh

Bangladesh's Textile Situation

Bangladesh textiles historyBangladesh began exporting ready-made

garments (RMG) including woven, knitted, and sweater garments in 1978

We earn US$3.5 million in 1981 and it increases US$10.7 billion in 2007

Until FY 1994, Bangladesh's RMG industry was mostly dependent on imported fabrics-the Primary Textile Sector (PTS) was not producing the necessary fabrics and yarn.

Bangladesh textiles - Fact sheetLargest industry in the country2nd largest employment generator after

agricultureEmploys about 4.2 million people the second highest knitted good

manufacturer in the worldReady made garments sector currently about

40% of total manufacturing and accounts for 76% of the country's export earnings and 10% of its GDP.

Bangladesh textiles - Fact sheetNow there are near 3000 factories of ready

made garmentsIn 2007 Ready made garments sector earned

$9.35 billion.85% of total employees are women

Markets for BangladeshBangladesh was the sixth largest exporter of apparel

in the world after China, The EU, Hong Kong , Turkey and India in 2006.

In 2006 Bangladesh's share in the world apparel exports was 2.8%

Today, the US remains the largest market for Bangladesh's woven garments taking US$2.42 billion, a 47% share of Bangladesh's total woven exports

In next five years Bangladesh will become largest ready made garments manufacturer

Currently Bangladesh is now second largest ready made garments manufacturer after china

Future of Bangladesh After global financial crisis of 2009 the labor costs rise, for

that many foreign investors, are coming to Bangladesh to take advantage of the low labor cost.

Now the investors are start using locally accessories minting the required quality. Zippers, buttons, labels, hooks, hangers, elastic bands, thread, backboards, butterfly pins, clips, collar stays, collarbones and cartons are the major garment accessories produced in Bangladesh.

Many small and medium accessory industries have grown here over the years, particularly to meet high demand from low-end garment makers The accessory market is dominated by multinational companies operating in Bangladesh

Now it is time for the Bangladeshi Merchandiser to introduce more local trims and trims manufacturer to buyer to show their expertise

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