History of Footwear and Leather Goods

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HISTORY OF FOOTWEAR ANDLEATHER GOODS

TWENTIETH CENTURY

M.VISHVA KUMAR

SR.FACULTY,FDDI



Introduction - The twentieth

century• As the hemlines were raising,

the leg came into full view andthe shoe, now preferred to theboot, became the visiblefoundation of the silhouette.

• Colour, pattern and detailingbecame important designelements.

• Since the 1910s, modern

transportation andcommunication has

transformed fashion into a

world commodity.

• Whether for sport or fashion,these highly designed footcoverings express our individuality, but still serve thepurpose for which footwear was originally invented -- to

protect our feet.

• There were a variety of footwear being introduced inthe 20th century, some of which were court shoes,

pumps, sleepers and mules,evening shoes, stilettos,sandals, clogs, brogues,loafers, boots and moccasins.



The biker’s boots

Timberland boots

Boots for mounted stockmen.

The qualities of water resistance,

comfort and toughness ensured

the footwear became popular



Types of techniques

• Appliqué

• Beading

• Lacing

• Leather embroidery



A p p l i q u é

• Appliqué is a technique in whichpieces of fabric are sewn onto afoundation piece of fabric to createdesigns.

• It is particularly suitable for workwhich is to be seen from a distance,for example, Banner-making.

• It also refers to the techniques of attaching other things to the surfaceof the leather, to decorate it. Thesecan include paper-Mache, other pieces of leather, decorativeriveting, plaster, etc.



A p p l i q u é

• A famous example of appliqué isthe Hastings Embroidery whosedesigns are appliquéd onto thebacking fabric using a variety of

embroidery stitches.

• Appliqué is also used extensivelyin quilting.

• "Dresden Plate" and "SunbonnetSue" are just two examples of well-known quilt blocks that useboth patchwork and appliqué toconstruct.



Historical perspective

• The word appliqué comes fromthe French word appliquer ,meaning to put on or to lay on.

• As a method of decoration,appliqué has been a popular

technique and has a longhistory, e.g.. canopy of leather inEgypt believed to date from 980BC.

• Over the centuries manydifferent materials have been

used in appliqué, includingbeads, fabric, fish scales, andleaves sewn on linen, beatenbark, leather, etc.

• Today appliqué is a craft in itsown right and is done both as ahobby and for profit.



Decorating using Appliqués..

• Appliqué is a simple andeffective method of decoratingfabric or leather, whether doneby hand or by machine.

• Machine appliqué is of coursedone mostly on sewingmachines.

• Appliqué doesn't just use fabricor leather; it can also be usedwith other materials such asbeads, sequins, etc.

• It is often combined with other types of needlework such asembroidery to create thedesired effect.



Decorating using Appliqués..

• There are two approaches todesigning for appliqué.

• The first approach is to workdirectly with materials, cuttingshapes, arranging andrearranging the shapes, andstitching them to a backgroundeither by hand or machine

without any planning.

• The second approach is toplan a design on paper, usingcut paper, tracing shapes out

of books, or drawing simpleforms such as leaves,butterflies, fish, etc.

• There is one unique type of appliqué called reverseappliqué in which material is

mounted from behind the fabricor leather after making a cutoutinstead of the usual approach.



Types of appliqué

• Hand appliqué

• Machine appliqué

• Reverse appliqué

• Appliqué perse• Shadow appliqué

• Hawaiian appliqué

• Stain glass appliqué



Gallery-rivets



• Beading has been partners withfiber since the first of humankindpulled a piece of vine from aplant, picked up a rock, shell or seed with a natural perforation,and strung the vine through the

perforated object to tie aroundher/his neck and wear.

• It does not matter whether thatperson wore the object aspersonal adornment, to imbueher/him with powers or for other symbolic reasons; this was thebeginning of bead stringing andbead and fiber’s history together.Bead Stringing is where beadingbegan.

Beading



Types

Beadwork techniques are broadly divided

into

• loom and off-loom weaving

• stringing

• bead embroidery

• bead crochet and• bead knitting



Lacing

• Lace is a lightweight,openwork fabric,patterned with open holesin the work, made by

machine or by hand.• The holes can be formed

via removal of threads or cloth from a previouslywoven fabric, but more

often open spaces arecreated as part of thelace fabric..



Lacing history

• Lace-making is an ancient craft.True lace was not made until thelate 15th and early 16th centuries.

• A true lace is created when a threadis looped, twisted or braided to

others threads independently from abacking fabric.

• Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used. Now lace isoften made with cotton thread.Manufactured lace may be made of

synthetic fiber.• A few modern artists makes lace

with a fine copper or silver wireinstead of thread



Types..

• There are many types of lace,defined by how they are made.These include:

1. Needle lace; made using aneedle and thread. This is themost flexible of the lace-making arts. The finest antiqueneedle laces were made froma very fine thread that is notmanufactured today.

2. Cutwork; lace constructedby removing threads from awoven background, and theremaining threads wrapped or filled with embroidery.



Types..

Bobbin Lace; as the name suggests, made with

bobbins and a pillow. The bobbins, turned from

wood, bone or plastic, hold threads which are

woven together and held in place with pins

stuck in the pattern on the pillow. The pillowcontains straw, preferably oat straw or other

materials such as sawdust.

Tape lace; makes the tape in the lace as it is

worked, or uses a machine- or hand-made

textile strip formed into a design, then joinedand embellished with needle or bobbin lace.



5. Knotted lace; including Macraméand Tatting. Tatted lace is made

with a shuttle or a tatting needle.

6. Crocheted lace; including Irishcrochet and Filet crochet.

Types..



7. Knitted lace; including Shetland lace,such as the "wedding ring shawl", a laceshawl so fine that it can be pulled

through a wedding ring.

8. Machine-made; any style of lacecreated or replicated using mechanical

means.

Types..



Leather embroidery

• Utility objects like stools, chair backs, fans, asans, bed coversand chappals(slippers) etc aremade embroidered in bright

colors and bold patch work andgeometric patterns, peacocks,parrots, flowers and temples.

• This embroidery can be done

directly on leather or on cloth andthen stitched on to leather.



Leather embroidery

• Embroidery is an old technique that was

used in the 18th century.

• It can be used on a soft or thin leather.

• Traditional floss, yarns, silk thread and finemetal threads can be used .



GALLERY



SATIN SHOES



LEATHER EMBROIDERY



CONCLUSION

• The twentieth century has created an

emphasis for footwear.

• The different techniques developed arefound to be implemented.

• The effects of the world war and

technological improvements have createdan impact on the change in fashion.

History of Footwear and Leather Goods

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