History of Fashion Byzantine-High Medieval Brigeda Hernandez Sourcebook 1.

History of Fashion

Byzantine-High Medieval

Brigeda HernandezSourcebook 1

King Tut and his queen.Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History. New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002. Print.

Vlamos, Yannis. 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013,New York

Altuzarra’s skirt is wrapped in the same fashion with similar gold trim

Braun, and Schneider. Historic Costume in Pictures. New-York: Dover Publ., 1975. Print.

Vlamos, Yannis. 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013, New York.

Egyptian king, court official, and fanbearer

This dress had a lot of intricate folds and drapery, much like the elite wore in ancient Egypt. Probably the same colors as well.

Harkness, Edward. Statuette of Amun. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 30 Sept. 2012. <http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/eg/web-large/DT553.jpg>.

The god Amun ("the hidden one") first came into prominence at the beginning of the Middle Kingdom. From the New Kingdom onward, Amun was arguably the most important god in the Egyptian pantheon.

Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Gareth Pugh RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

Some designers, especially Gareth Pugh, still love big headdresses!!

By the New Kingdom, broad collar necklaces were the most frequently worn pieces of jewelry among the royalty and elite in ancient Egypt. This necklace belonged to one of three foreign wives of Thutmose III.

Although big jewelry is often associated with the 80s, it’s seen a big comeback today as well, with chunky necklaces, bracelets, and big earrings.

Yves Saint Laurent. Yves Saint Laurent. 2012. Photograph. Style.com Accessories, n.p.

Fletcher Fund. Broad Collar. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2012. Web. 30 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/100004305?rpp=20&pg=3&ft=ancient+egypt&pos=43>.

This monumental bust of a richly bejeweled lady who wears large pearls in her ears, a necklace of delicate stones about her throat, and two brooches—one clasping her yellow mantle and another at the tie of her dress—is an example of the exceptional mosaics created throughout the Early Byzantine world in the first half of the sixth century.

Dick Fund, Harris B., Fletcher Fund, Lila W. Gift, Dodge Fund, and Wallace Fund. Fragment of a Floor Mosaic with a Personification of Ktisis. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 200-2012. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/1700

09982?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=byzantine&pos=17>.

Delicate Filigree Headwrap. Digital image. Urban Outfitters. Urban Outfitters, 2012. Web. 29 Sept. 2012. <http://www.urbanoutfitters.com/urban/catalog/productdetail.jsp?id=25654823&parentid=W_ACC_HAIRACCESSORIES>.

Headbands of all sizes have been very in for the past few years. Very big in the hipster style if you will.

Empress Theodora and members of her court, glass and stone Tesserae

Fletcher Fund. Empress Theodora and Members of Her Court. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/170006506>.

Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Ann Demeulemeester RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

Long cloaks are still very common today, for fashion and for functionality.

This is one of a group of twenty-seven very similar Spangenhelme (literally, strap helmets), all of which date from the sixth century. Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012.

Photograph. Philip Treacy RTW Spring 2013, London.

Grancsay, Stephen V. Helmet (Spangenhelm). Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/40002919?rpp=20&pg=1&ft=spangenhelm+&pos=1>.

Although not many of us would wear a helmet, it’s good for making a runway statement.


Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Manish Arora RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

Much like the Byzantine era, both men’s and women’s clothing are often bejeweled and decorated.

The head is ancient but from another statue. Restorations by the eighteenth-century Italian sculptor Vincenzo Pacetti: (on Dionysos) ivy wreath, neck, both arms, lower right leg, calf and boot of left leg, hanging drapery on right side; (on the archaistic image) uplifted corner of drapery, both arms, lower half of lower legs, feet, pedestal, entire base.Roman copy of Greek original.

Vlamos, Yannis. 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013

Richmond Foundation, Frederick, Judy and Michael Steinhardt, and Alfred Taubman. Statue of Dionysos Leaning on a Female Figure. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/130016480>.

Drapery seen in ancient Rome and Greece is very similar to the draping we see today.

Adaptation of a Greek statue of the 3rd century B.C. Among the preserved monuments of ancient art, there is no more sympathetic portrait of the Greek intellectual than this bronze statuette of a philosopher. The subject of this portrait can be identified as a member of the Epicurean school of philosophy. Epicuros (341-270 B.C.)

2012. Photograph. Altuzarra Resort 2013, New York. Comp. Altuzarra.

Rogers Fund. Bronze Statuette of a Philosopher on a Lamp Stand. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/130008941?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=epicuros&pos=1>.

The infamous toga seems to have survived and given way to the ever so popular one-shoulder dress in fashion.

Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History. New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002. Print.

Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Maison Margiela RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

The basic garment for many ancient civilizations was a simple white dress. It has survived to modern day, and will probably continue to do so.


Vlamos, Yannis. 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013,New York

Both images share a wrapped skirt and similar oblique lines. They are both simple yet sophisticated.


Swimsuit by Victoria’s Secret

Although we might think bikinis became popular in the 1960s, they were clearly popular before then. The Romans used something similar to a bikini as an exercise outfit.


Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Chalayan RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

Wigs and hats will always be popular in some way, shape or form. The picture on the left appears to be the start of a bonnet, which probably gave way to the fashionable floppy hats on the right.

Roman general and Germanic standard-bearer

Warriors in Rome often had all the ornate decorations. The embellishment on the dress below is reminiscent of that.


2012. Photograph. Altuzarra Resort 2013, New York. Comp. Altuzarra.


Vlamos, Yannis. 2012. Photograph. Altuzarra RTW Spring 2013, New York.

Gladiator sandals have seen a definite resurgence as of late

Morgan, Joseph. Buckle. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 25 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/170005273?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=early+medieval&when=A.D.+500-1000&where=Europe&pos=7>.

Belts were important features of early medieval dress. Not only did they serve the practical function of holding weapons and tools, but their fittings, which could vary in terms of material, decoration, and size, were also highly visible indicators of rank and status.

Maitre, Dominique. 2012. Photograph. Isabel Marant RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

Belts will always be around, whether they’re simple or elaborate. In women’s wear they usually serve to accentuate the waist, and in men’s they serve a more functional purpose.

Rogers Fund. Textile Fragment With Hunting Scene. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 25 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/140008347?rpp=20&pg=2&ao=on&ft=early+medieval&when=A.D.+500-1000&pos=36>.

Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Hermes RTW Spring 2013, Paris

While embroidery like this isn’t all too common these days, some designers still take the time to illustrate different scenes on their clothes.

This panel by Simone Martini depicts the fourth-century martyr and first apostle of Siena Saint Ansanus.Martini, Simone. Saint Ansanus. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 30 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/150000001>.

Buckner, Michael. Gwyneth Paltrow. 2012. Photograph. 2012 Oscars: Fashion Police, Los Angeles.

A note on this one: I had a really hard time finding an image from modern day, so I settled on the first fashionable cape-like picture I found

The Christ Child seated in a frontal pose on the Virgin's lap is a sculptural type known as the Throne of Wisdom, or Sedes Sapientiae. Beneath her blue mantle the Virgin wore a red robe. That same red, also decorated with tin leaf, is found on the Child's himation (the overgarment that falls over his shoulder), while his tunic (now light green) was originally a darker green with red lining. Both throne and base were painted in imitation of colored marbles and precious stones.

Cloisters Collection, and James Rorimer Memorial Fund. Enthroned Virgin and Child. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 20 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/70012405>.

Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Junya Watanabe RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

Same as before, many designers use headdresses to pull their collections together and make a statement.

Nasitir, Mr & Mrs Iain. Stained Glass Fragment with an Angel Appearing to a Deacon Saint with the Symbols of the Four Evangelists. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 30 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/70006017?rpp=20&pg=2&ao=on&ft=stained+glass&pos=22>.

Imaxtree.com. 2010. Photograph. Jeremy Scott Fall 2010, n.p

Stained glass, whether intentionally or not, seems to sneak its way in to certain looks now and then. Perhaps this is wear color blocking got its start?

Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Aganovich RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

Friedman, Harry G. The Temple in Jerusalem. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 30 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/170008399>.

This illustration of the Temple in Jerusalem shows many cloak-like garments, which could easily be an inspiration for the modern take on the right.

Drexel, Joseph. Book of Hours. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 30 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/170008912>.

Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Commes Des Garcons RTW Spring 2013, Paris.

While it was difficult to find a picture of a long, flowing garment as seen in this illustration from The Book of Hours, the headdress and fabric around the neck are similar.

Breaking with convention, the artist shows the Madonna’s birth in contemporary terms. In the background the newborn baby is bathed by midwives, while in the foreground women greet each other. The imposing palace, patterned on the ducal palace of Urbino, is decorated with reliefs derived from Roman sculpture.

Carnevale, Fra. Birth of the Virgin. Digital image. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000-2012. Web. 30 Sept. 2012. <http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/110000281?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=medieval+paintings&pos=14>.

Giannoni, Giovanni. 2012. Photograph. Francesco Scognamiglio Spring RTW 2013, Milan.

Both pictures feature long, simple dresses, which will probably never go out of style.

History of Fashion Byzantine-High Medieval Brigeda Hernandez Sourcebook 1.

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