Hideaway Report

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected].

AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected].

THIS MONTH

ISL AND ESCAPES IN SOUTHE AST ASIA Seductive resorts and hotels in Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia

W YOMING AND IDAHO Rocky Mountain lodges for multigenerational summer vacations

WEB EXCLUSIVES Look for these symbols, then visit The Hideaway Report at AndrewHarper.com. = additional related article = slideshow = video

Paris Debut Sensation

IN THE NEWS

SINCE IT OPENED in

January, La Réserve Paris

has garnered plaudits by

the sackful. Located just

off the Champs-Elysées,

the property offers 40

accommodations, of

which 26 are suites. The

building was designed by

Haussmann in 1854 for the

half-brother of Emperor

Napoleon III. Its interior

has been transformed by

designer-of-the-moment

Jacques Garcia at the

behest of hotelier Michel

Reybier (whose La Réserve

brand includes my recom-

mended La Réserve

Ramatuelle near Saint-

Tropez). The sumptuous

décor is complemented by

a spa with a 50-foot pool,

and Le Gabriel restaurant,

overseen by chef Jérôme

Banctel, who trained with

Alain Senderens at Lucas

Carton. I will publish a full

report in the near future.

LARESERVE-PARIS.COM

T R AV E L I NG T H E WOR L D I N SE A RC H OF T RU LY E NC H A N T I NG PL AC E S

MAY 2015 | OUR 36TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com

Tipped off to these developments by expatriate friends living in Hong Kong, I added the island to my itinerary during an extended visit to the region. Phuket already has three of my favorite resort hotels — Amanpuri, Six Senses Yao Noi and Trisara, so I was curious to see how the new contenders would stack up.

On arrival at Phuket’s international airport, I was taken aback to see that many of the official signs are now in both Russian and Chinese. Many Russians, it seems, have bought property here as a

safe investment outside of the ruble zone, while the Chinese have fallen in love, like everyone else, with the friendly people, reasonable prices, delicious food and gorgeous beaches.

V iewed from afar, the 106-room Point Yamu by COMO hotel has a slightly forbidding

appearance. A boxy modern structure, it is set on a crest overlooking the Andaman Sea on Phuket’s east coast, the side of the island that has spectacular views but less desirable beaches. Since I’ve always

The Many Pleasures of Phuket

S T I L L R E L A T I V E LY U N S P O I L E D , P H U K E T P R O V I D E S A B L I S S F U L T I M E O U T D U R I N G A

sightseeing trip to Southeast Asia. Recently, the lush and hilly island off the southwest coast of Thailand has seen the opening of several new hotels, including a property by noted Singaporean hotelier Christina Ong, and the evolution of one of the best restaurant scenes in Asia.

NEW RESORTS, SENSUOUS SPAS, THAI CUISINE

Infinity pool overlooking the

Andaman Sea at Point Yamu

by COMO

This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected].

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT MAY 2015

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

“ Those in search of tranquility and a wellness-focused experience will find Point Yamu much to their taste.

E XCURSIONS

Island-HoppingTHE BEST WAY to appre-

ciate the beauty of Phuket

is to see the island from the

water. Phuket Adventures

WORLD offers a variety of

private speedboats and

yachts that will allow you

to visit lovely spots such

as Phang Nga Bay, Coral

Island, Racha Island, Koh

Keeyao, Koh Bon and

Koh Lone. The company

provides English-speaking

guides, refreshments and

snorkeling equipment.

Itineraries change according

to the tides. The Phi Phi

Islands are a great destina-

tion for beachcombing, but

it is best to get an early start

to arrive before the crowds. PHUKETADVENTURES.WORLD

More excursions online:

The Andaman Sea has thousands of square miles of pristine coral reef, making it one of the world’s best diving destinations.

A visit to the town of Phuket reveals its rich history.

been a fan of Ong’s other hotels, including COMO Shambhala Estate in Bali and Cocoa Island by COMO in the Maldives, I decided not to jump to any conclusions.

The centerpiece of the open-air lobby proved to be a colorful, stylized Thai altar with votive trays of fruit. Long, lacy cylinder lamps dangled from the high ceiling. We received a warm welcome from staff dressed in airy white linen, then were shown to our suite in the south wing of the building. The hallways were mostly buffed gray concrete, which is a long way from traditional Thai wooden architecture, but small aluminum bowls filled with floating chrysanthemums, and floods of natural light, softened their appearance.

Our suite — the work of distinguished Italian designer Paola Navone — proved a delightful surprise. Stenciled white-and-gray floor tiles, an overstuffed white linen sofa covered with throw cushions, and a lapis lazuli ceramic-topped table with limed oak chairs all contributed to a décor that was stylish and contemporary yet practical and extremely comfortable. The bedroom, which could be completely closed off from the rest of the suite, displayed commendable attention to detail, with exemplary reading lights on long, flexible metal tubes, and master controls on both sides of the bed. An enormous bath provided a circular soaking tub, a walk-in rainfall shower and COMO Shambhala toiletries with scents of eucalyptus and rosemary. French doors led to a small private sundeck — with plunge pool — from which there were sweeping views over the aquamarine expanse of Phang Nga

Bay. Having settled in, we ordered a room service lunch, and a delicious array of Thai delicacies arrived in less than 20 minutes.

As a result of its clifftop setting, Point Yamu is not a beach resort. However, many people have become cautious about getting too much sun, and in some ways, it is more relaxing to spend an afternoon by the saltwater pool beneath an umbrella than actually to be on a beach. That said, the resort offers speedboat service to a neighboring island ringed by white sand, and is currently completing a private beach club. Until that is finished, probably sometime this fall, Point Yamu not only has one of the best spas on Phuket — the COMO group is justly renowned for the sophistication of its facilities — but the finest restaurants of any hotel on the island. Nahmyaa is extraordinarily good and serves delectable soups, curries and stir fries inspired by Thai street food. La Sirena, the casual poolside Italian restaurant, offers delicious seafood, and its chefs make excellent use of their wood-fired oven.

If you are looking for a beachfront location, Amanpuri should still be your first choice. But those in search of tranquility and a wellness-focused experience will find Point Yamu much to their taste. Aesthetically refined, with charming service and exceptional cuisine, this is a distinctly superior resort.

During our stay on Phuket, we also spent two nights at the new Anantara Phuket Layan

resort on the island’s west coast (close to Trisara). Anantara, a Bangkok-based hotel chain founded by billionaire William Heinecke, is not especially

Bath, bedroom and sundeck of our suite, and shrimp pad thai at Point Yamu


MAY 2015 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3

well-known in the United States, but the brand is a favorite of American expatriates in Hong Kong and Singapore because its hotels are unfailingly well-run and well-designed, and deliver excellent value for money.

This quiet and attractive property offers a variety of accommodations in its 30 rooms and suites and 47 pool villas. Half of the hotel is next to the beach, while the other half is perched on a hillside. All rooms are spacious, attractively decorated and equipped with Apple televisions and espresso machines. However, beachcombers will prefer easy access to the white sands from Premier Rooms, Sala Pool Villas and Beachfront Pool Villas. The hotel’s primary swimming pool and restaurants are also located at the center of the beachside accommodations. Created by an Italian chef who has lived in Thailand for many years, the cuisine at the hotel is consistently good. In particular, Dee Plee serves delicious regional Thai specialties such as massaman nua, a southern dish of slow-cooked beef cheeks and crunchy peanuts in a curry flavored with tamarind juice, and pla grapong neung king, sea bass steamed with Thai herbs and served in a soy sauce. Like all Anantara properties, the Phuket property has an outstanding spa. The hotel also offers a complete range of water sports, with kayaks, canoes and surfboards available free.

S ince Phuket offers an immense variety of activities and reliably sunny weather for nine

months of the year — the only time not to visit is the short rainy season from September to November — the island has become a popular destination for families. Coincidentally, one of my nephews was staying with his wife and children at the JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa during our visit. Based in San Diego, he had chosen this 265-room hotel specifically because of its impressive array of activities for children. Of course, I greatly prefer small, distinctive hotels to large chain properties, but I couldn’t help being impressed. Set on 27 landscaped acres at the edge of the Andaman Sea, the resort offers pleasing architecture, warm and attentive service, and a surprisingly intimate atmosphere. Done up in a scheme of soft pastels, spacious Ocean Front Suites come with polished teak floors, ceiling fans and large decks with private whirlpools. The resort has several pools, including one for adults only, and the fully staffed children’s pavilion offers an ever-changing array of sports, games and crafts. Overall, this is an excellent choice for multigenerational family trips to Asia. H

HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

Point Yamu by COMO A95LIKE Comfortable and stylish rooms; outstanding restaurants; exceptional spa. DISLIKE The lack of screens on the French doors in the bedrooms, preventing sleeping without air-conditioning; less-than-perfect soundproofing. GOOD TO KNOW Most cab drivers at Phuket’s airport don’t speak English and seem to have little idea where the hotel is located, so arrange transportation with the hotel in advance. VERANDAH ROOM WITH POOL, $400; VERANDAH POOL SUITE, $925. 225 MOO 7, PAKLOK, TALANG, PHUKET.

TEL.(66) 76-360-100. COMOHOTELS.COM/POINTYAMU

Anantara Phuket Layan 89LIKE The large, well-lit bath in our Sala Pool Villa; the excellent restaurants; the outstanding spa. DISLIKE The hotel is located on a tidal bay, so swimming is difficult when the tide is out. GOOD TO

KNOW The resort provides a fast-track airport service, which is a huge help. BEACHFRONT LAYAN

POOL VILLA, $750. 168 MOO 6, LAYAN BEACH SOI 4, CHERNGTALAY, THALANG, PHUKET. TEL. (66) 76-317-200.

PHUKET-LAYAN.ANANTARA.COM

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa 89LIKE The attractive, landscaped seaside setting; spacious, well-appointed rooms; the peerless menu of activities for children of all ages. DISLIKE While all of the five restaurants are good, none is outstanding. GOOD TO KNOW Both the baby-sitting service and the room service are first-rate. ROOM OCEAN FRONT

SUITE, $450. 231 MOO 3 MAI KHAO, TALANG, PHUKET. TEL. (66) 76-338-000. MARRIOTT.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on this and four additional recommendations in and around Phuket.

WITH OPTIONS RANGING FROM KOREAN RESTAURANTS to French bistros and

American-style steakhouses, Phuket has one of the most cosmopolitan dining scenes

in Southeast Asia. Since local boats supply freshly caught fish, crab, shrimp and lobster

daily, the island is a great place for seafood lovers. Southern Thai cooking is very different

from that found elsewhere in the country, being spicier and more pungent. Fresh turmeric,

fermented fish sauce and prawn paste are all important seasonings.

Acqua For a stylish night out and a change from Thai cooking, head for this chic Italian

spot that is a favorite with local expatriates. The homemade pastas, such as Sardinian

fregola with clams, lobster and tomatoes, are delicious. Outstanding wine list. 324/15

PRABARAMEE ROAD, KALIM BAY, PATONG. TEL. (66) 76-618-127. ACQUARESTAURANTPHUKET.COM

Aziamendi The most talked-about restaurant on Phuket is run by Basque chef Eneko

Atxa, who moved to Thailand after winning three stars in Spain. Here, he has hired young

American chef Alex Burger to run the kitchen. Burger does superb tasting menus that

include dishes such as tomato tart with Parmesan, and pigeon with duxelles and cauli-

flower. Reserve well in advance. Very expensive. 40/14 MOO 6 BAAN NATAI, T. KHOKKLOI A.

TAKUATHUNG, PHANG-NGA. TEL. (66) 94-005-0654. AZIAMENDI.COM

Breeze Just a short walk from the Point Yamu hotel, this beachside restaurant serves

a sophisticated modern Australian-style menu with dishes such as roasted scallops with

snow peas, orange and mint; and grilled steak with mustard vinaigrette. The Sunday

brunch is excellent. CAPE YAMU. TEL. (66) 81-271-2320. BREEZECAPEYAMU.COM

Blue Elephant Housed in the former governor’s mansion, this upscale Thai restaurant

has a great atmosphere and serves delicious dishes such as sea bass with lemongrass

and chiles, and crabmeat curry. 96 KRABI ROAD, TAMBON TALAD NEUA, MUANG DISTRICT. TEL. (66)

76-354-355. BLUEELEPHANT.COM

Suay Restaurant This stylish Thai table with an all-white décor is a perfect choice for

lunch while touring Phuket Town. The sea bass seasoned with turmeric and grilled in a

banana leaf is outstanding. Great cocktail list. 50/2 TAKUAPA ROAD, TALAT NUEA, MUEANG.

TEL. (66) 87-888-6990. SUAYRESTAURANT.COM

Dining Out in Phuket

CUISINE

Lobster salad at Acqua


GEORGE TOWN, ON THE MALAYSIAN ISLAND OF PENANG, AND ITS LARGER AND BETTER-KNOWN sibling, Singapore, were both born at a time when the sun famously never set on the British Empire. Located at the northern entrance to the strategically crucial Strait of Malacca, George Town, unlike Singapore, still evokes an age of travel by steamship among storied ports and their grand hotels, an era that began with the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869.

AN ENCOUNTER WITH THE HISTORY OF MAL AYSIA

Colonial-Era Charm in George Town, Penang

It was a Hindu feast day on my arrival, and on the road into town from the airport, I caught a glimpse of a happy, colorfully dressed crowd, its members draped with marigold flower necklaces and following several huge, brightly painted puppets. In quick succession, we then passed a large mosque, a Buddhist temple and a handsome white church. George Town is an ethnically diverse city — with a population chiefly of Malay, Chinese and Indian heritage — which helps to explain its conspicuous vitality.

A natty doorman in shorts, white knee socks and a pith helmet opened the door of my

taxi when we pulled up in front of the 100-room Eastern & Oriental Hotel. The welcome in the sedate lobby was cordial and slightly formal, just as I had expected. This legendary hotel was created in 1885 by the Sarkies, an Armenian family that went on to open The Strand in Rangoon and Raffles in Singapore. At the time, it was considered to be the

MANY PEOPLE consider

George Town to be the

street-food capital of

Southeast Asia. Certainly,

a visit to its hawker stalls,

or open-air food courts,

where dozens of different

stands cook up local

dishes such as oyster

omelettes, fried crabs and

spring rolls, is an essen-

tial experience for any

visitor to Penang. Most

are open only at night.

If you’re feeling mildly

adventurous, try the Red

Garden food court at 20

Leith Street, which is open

from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.

CIT Y LIFE

Street Food

George Town waterfront on the Strait of Malacca

George Town “shophouse” PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER


HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

Eastern & Oriental Hotel A92LIKE The strong sense of place and history in the atmospheric public areas; the very comfortable and spacious rooms; the excellent value for money. DISLIKE The mediocre food aside from the lavish breakfast buffet. GOOD TO KNOW Use the hotel’s second swimming pool at the Victory Annexe if you want afternoon sun, since the seaside pool at the Heritage Wing quickly falls into shadow. DELUXE

SUITE KING, $215; STRAITS SUITE, $300. 10 LEBUH FARQUHAR, GEORGE TOWN, PENANG. TEL. (60) 4-222-2000.

E-O-HOTEL.COM

Seven Terraces A95LIKE Exquisite décor in public spaces; convenient location; fine restaurant; charming staff. DISLIKE The lack of room service after 5 p.m. GOOD TO KNOW The Mews Café, just a five-minute walk from the hotel, belongs to the same owners and is an excellent choice for lunch, with a selection of well-prepared Asian and Western specialties and friendly service. ARGUS LANE SUITE, $205; ARGUS LANE GRAND SUITE, $385.

STEWART LANE, GEORGE TOWN, PENANG. TEL. (60) 4-264-2333. SEVENTERRACES.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on these and two additional recommendations in Malaysia.

definition of luxury, with electric lights, hot and cold running water, even elevators.

Although I’d chosen to stay at the Eastern & Oriental primarily for its historic atmosphere, it turned out to be an extremely comfortable and well-run hotel. Our suite in the Heritage Wing — which is preferable to the modern, high-rise Victory Annexe — came with glossy teak floors, white crown moldings, a four-poster bed and casement windows overlooking a beautifully landscaped terrace, one of the property’s two swimming pools and the Andaman Sea. The separate lounge was attractively furnished in an appropriately Victorian style, and the spacious bath provided two separate vanities and an extra-long claw-foot tub. Everything technical, including the air-conditioning and Wi-Fi, worked perfectly. What I liked most about the Eastern & Oriental was that, unlike so many other renovated heritage properties, it hadn’t been turned into a pastiche. Instead, it had a pleasantly sleepy atmosphere and an unselfconscious sepia-toned charm.

My only disappointment was that the food seemed a reprise of the British Victorian kitchen. Aside from a very good breakfast buffet, dishes in the restaurants were typically overcooked and under-seasoned. However, in a city as justly renowned for its cuisine as George Town, this was a very minor problem. I left the Eastern & Oriental with real regret and a strong desire to return for a longer stay.

T he growing popularity of George Town has led to a mini-boom in development, with many

of the so-called “shophouses” in the old city being converted into boutique hotels. The shophouse is George Town’s most emblematic form of architecture. The term refers to a contiguous row of houses, rarely higher than four stories, with stores on the ground floor. The idiom became common as a result of Chinese immigration in the 19th century, which explains why so many shophouses have a distinctly Chinese appearance, with ceramic tile roofs and elaborate decoration.

The 18-suite Seven Terraces opened in 2013. A hugely ambitious project, it was the brainchild of hotelier Christopher Ong and his Austrian partner, Karl Steinberg. In 2008, they acquired nine fire-ruined shophouses in a small lane near the center of the city and undertook the massive task of restoration. Ong was born in Penang, grew up in Australia, and had a successful career as a banker

George Town Sightseeing Highlights

CULTURE

1 Pinang Peranakan Mansion Peranakan derives from a Malay word that means

“descendants from a union between a local and a foreigner,” specifically Chinese

immigrants and the indigenous Malay population. Peranakan culture is at the core of

George Town’s identity. This museum occupies an ostentatious mansion built by a

wealthy Chinese merchant in the 1890s. Its contents reveal the Peranakan people’s

love of opulence. The cabinets are filled with German bisque porcelain figurines, fine

British pottery and even mantel clocks made in Ansonia, Connecticut. 29 CHURCH STREET.

PINANGPERANAKANMANSION.COM.MY

2 Protestant Cemetery Established in 1789 and shaded by frangipani trees, this

atmospheric cemetery brings the dramas of colonial history to life. An example from

the tombstone of Christopher Henry Lloyd: “Superintendent of Panghore and Dindings

who was murdered by a gang of Chinese robbers in the night of October 25, 1876.” The

grave of Captain Francis Light, the English adventurer who, in 1786, persuaded the Sultan

of Kedah to allow the island of Penang to become a protectorate of the British East India

Company, is also to be found here. JALAN SULTAN AHMAD SHAH.

3 Chew Jetty When Chinese immigrants arrived to work in the thriving port of

George Town, many of them built houses on stilts on the edges of wooden jetties as a

way to avoid the expense of buying property or paying taxes. The half-dozen or so Chinese

jetties were usually settled by members of the same clan, and their descendants still live

there. WELD QUAY.

Our suite and view at the Eastern & Oriental Hotel



in Sydney before becoming a hotelier, first with the Galle Fort Hotel in Sri Lanka.

While preserving the 19th-century façades, Ong and Steinberg managed to create a large, tile-floored central atrium ornamented with sweet-smelling frangipani trees in huge glazed pots. The ground floor includes Kebaya, serving a menu of classic Indo- and Straits Chinese dishes, plus a bar, a library and a small lap pool. The public rooms display Ong’s spectacular collection of local antiques, including figurines, lacquered tiffin carriers and teak couches inlaid with mother of pearl.

The suites are decorated in a similar style. The most desirable are the duplex Argus Suites, which overlook a quiet back street. Ours came with a spacious lounge furnished with red velvet-upholstered sofas, Chinese antiques and colonial-style furniture of British, Sri Lankan and local provenance. A huge white bath with a honeycomb-tile floor provided a single vanity and a rainfall shower. Reached via stairs, the bedroom opened onto a small private balcony overlooking George Town’s Anglican church. Throughout our stay, service from the mostly Sri Lankan staff was outstanding. The Seven Terraces is a truly distinctive and utterly delightful hotel. H

S o u t h e a s t A s i aNational CapitalsCities 3,000,000+Cities 900,000-2,999,999Cities 250,000-899,999Cities 75,000-249,999Cities 0-74,999

International BoundariesHighwaysPrimary RoadsMajor RiversIntermediate RiversLakes

0 275 MI

0 275 KM

PHUKET(TOWN)

GEORGE TOWN

KUALA LUMPUR

SINGAPORE

BANGKOK

THAILAND

MALAYSIA

INDONESIA

PHUKET

PENANG

BINTANISLAND

SouthChina

Sea

Gulfof

Thai land

AndamanSea

Stra it of Malacca

CAMBODIA

VIETNAM

LAOSBURMA

“ The Seven Terraces is a truly distinctive and utterly delightful hotel.

Kebaya The elegant restaurant at the Seven Terraces hotel specializes in Peranakan

cooking, including dishes such as minced chicken with herbs wrapped in lettuce, grilled

snapper, and pandan-leaf crème brûlée. Excellent wine list and very good service. Dinner

only. Reservations essential. STEWART LANE. TEL. (60) 4-264-2333. SEVENTERRACES.COM

China House This stylish café is a good place for a fast, casual meal. Excellent break-

fasts, afternoon high tea, and dishes such as homemade lamb sausage with couscous

and warm feta-cheese dressing, and steamed apple-and-macadamia-nut pudding.

153-155 BEACH STREET. TEL. (60) 4-263-7299. CHINAHOUSE.COM.MY

Tek Sen This busy restaurant is widely considered to have the best Chinese kitchen

in George Town. Try dishes such as stir-fried shio bak (roasted pork belly), chicken with

turmeric and chiles, and braised duck with oysters. Cash only. 18 LEBUH CARNARVON.

TEL. (60) 12-981-5117.

Mews Café Run by the owners of the Seven Terraces hotel, this casual all-day restau-

rant serves an eclectic menu that runs from ciabatta chicken to Asian dishes such as

Malay rice salad with spiced fried chicken. Don’t miss the caramelized banana fritters.

MUNTRI MEWS, 77 MUNTRI STREET. TEL. (60) 4-263-5125.

Suffolk House This elegant colonial house was built on a pepper plantation that was

once owned by Captain Francis Light, the founder of George Town. It’s a stylish and

relaxing place for dinner, with a mostly Western menu that runs to dish such as truffled

chicken terrine, and smoked salmon fillet with horseradish and tomato chutney. 250 JALAN

AIR ITAM. TEL. (60) 4-228-3930.

Favorite George Town Restaurants

Atrium, bedroom and betel leaf wraps filled with dried shrimp, salad and fish eggs at the Seven Terraces.

ROOM AND FOOD PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


On my most recent trip, however, I decided to take a preliminary break beside the sea to recover from the long flight from North America. The Sanchaya hotel, a sumptuous new property on Indonesia’s Bintan Island, is just a 45-minute ride by comfortable high-speed ferry from Singapore. So less than two hours after we’d landed at Changi Airport, we were sitting on a veranda overlooking a white-sand beach and the ocean.

More than three times larger in area than Singapore, Bintan Island has only 118,000 inhabitants. This statistic explains why the island is currently being developed as a second-home getaway

T R AV E L E R S T O A SI A F I N D T H E M SE LV E S I N SI NG A P OR E F OR M A N Y reasons. The Southeast Asian city-state is one of the world’s most important financial and business capitals; it has an efficient and well-served airport; it also offers superb food and a distinctive culture.

for Singaporeans in search of space and tranquility, as well as a beach resort for foreign visitors.

When I first heard about the 21-villa, nine-suite Sanchaya, it sounded intriguing, but I hesitated, wondering about the complications of reserving ferry tickets and obtaining the necessary Indonesian visa. Happily, the hotel tends efficiently to all of these arrangements.

As soon as we caught our first glimpse of the handsome main manor house I knew we’d made a good choice. The general manager, Murlidhar Rao, a charming and ebullient host, welcomed us to his 30-acre tropical seaside estate. He then showed us around the magnificent public rooms and explained that sanchaya means “collection” in Sanskrit, a reference to the architecture and decoration of the villas, which were inspired by a variety of indigenous idioms. This approach is reflected in Thai-style pitched roofs, Burmese window frames, Laotian temple ornaments and Khmer glazed pottery jars. Our exceptionally attractive suite featured teak floors, a grass-cloth sofa, black rattan armchairs, a marble-topped table, a Bang & Olufsen entertainment center and a wine fridge.

After a dip in the 150-foot infinity pool, I indulged in a signature Sanchaya spa treatment, which involved deep tissue massage and warm stone therapy. Feeling relaxed and reinvigorated, we headed to the bar, which is decorated like a Victorian geographical society clubroom. Later, we opted to dine in the Tasanee Grill, where we enjoyed a delicious Thai meal of spring rolls, green papaya salad and curried prawns.

The next morning, we were greeted at breakfast in The Dining Room, the hotel’s main restaurant, by the jamu gendong (herbal drinks) server, who arrived tableside with a selection of these fruit, vegetable and spice concoctions that the Indonesians like to begin their day. My turmeric and tamarind shot was certainly a potent eye-opener.

The Sanchaya is owned by Natalya Pavchinskaya, a Russian businesswoman, and eventually will be part of a much larger development project on the northern coast of Bintan Island that will include additional hotels, a golf course and an international airport. During a long walk along the beach, I reflected that Bintan today is rather like Southeast Asia in the early ’80s, before the region emerged as a popular tourist destination. For now, The Sanchaya is a truly blissful place in which to relax and to enjoy the soft, warm breezes wafting off the South China Sea. H

The Sanchaya, Bintan Island

A LUXURIOUS NEW HIDE AWAY NE AR SINGAPORE

“ During a long walk along the beach, I reflected that Bintan today is rather like Southeast Asia in the early ’80s, before the region emerged as a popular tourist destination.

The Sanchaya A95LIKE Exceptionally beautiful setting in a former coconut plantation overlooking the South China Sea. DISLIKE The charge for the transfer from the ferry terminal, a service that should be complimentary, given the hefty room rates. GOOD TO KNOW The best time to visit Bintan is from March to July; avoid the monsoon season from mid-December to mid-February. Nearby Ria Bintan Golf Club is one of the best in Southeast Asia. THE GREAT HOUSE JUNIOR SUITE SEA VIEW, $870; ONE-BEDROOM VILLA SEA VIEW, $1,475. JALAN

GURINDAM DUABELAS, PLOT 5 LAGOI BAY, P. BINTAN, KEP. RIAU. (62) 770-692200. THESANCHAYA.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on this and seven additional recommendations in Indonesia.

Exterior, and our suite at The SanchayaROOM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


LODGING OP TIONS INSIDE AND OUTSIDE THE PARK

Beginnings

HISTORY

THE WEST was still

wild when Yellowstone

became a national park in

1872 — four years before

Gen. George Armstrong

Custer and his 7th Calvary

command were wiped out

near the Little Bighorn

River. In the enabling legis-

lation, Congress decreed

that the geothermal

features and the rugged

surrounding land be “set

apart as a public park or

pleasuring ground for the

benefit and enjoyment

of the people.” The act

allowed for a superinten-

dent to be appointed, but

allocated not a penny for

roads or lodging, or for

managing and protecting

the new park.

JACKSON

2

YELLOWSTONELAKE

JACKSONLAKE Snake R.

Yellowstone R.

Madison R.

WESTYELLOWSTONE

BOZEMAN

YELLOWSTONENATIONAL PARK

GRAND TETONNATIONAL

PARK

1

3TE

TO

N R

AN

GE

WYOMING

0

0 50 KM

50 MI

OLD FAITHFUL

YELLOWSTONEFALLS

IDAHO

MONTANA

Then there’s the vexed question of where to stay. The park’s first hotel was a one-story, sod-covered log building, about 25 by 35 feet, “very primitive,” according to Ferdinand Hayden, who had led a geological survey into Yellowstone in 1871. The options certainly have improved in the intervening years, but there are still no five-star accommodations. The famed Old Faithful Inn, for example, is a masterpiece of rustic architecture, but that charm does not extend to its 327 merely functional bedrooms, and hospitality remains an elusive concept. What you get at Old Faithful Inn or other lodging within the park is proximity to Yellowstone’s natural attractions.

On a recent visit, we chose to overnight at the freshly renovated Lake Yellowstone Hotel & Cabins on the north shore of the lake at an elevation of 7,795 feet. The yellow-clapboard, white-columned hotel was built by the Northern Pacific Railroad in 1891. Like so many other historic structures in the park, the property suffered from years of neglect. In 1981, the National Park Service and the concessionaire embarked on a 10-year restoration program. That was followed in 2013-14 by a comprehensive $28.5 million upgrade.

Our suite turned out to be spacious and comfortable, with tall windows that granted views of the lake and the Absaroka Range. Craftsman-style furnishings in dark wood included a roomy armoire in lieu of a closet. A writing desk sat next to the double doors that separated the bedroom and the living room. Patterned wall-to-wall carpet extended into the living room, which was similarly furnished with another armoire, as well as a sleeper sofa. A bank of cabinets near the door held a small sink and a Keurig coffeemaker.

The well-lit, clean-lined bath retained the character of an earlier age: marble-topped vanity, vintage-look fixtures, mosaic tile floors and white subway tile wainscot. There is no air-conditioning, television or Wi-Fi; rooms are wired for third-party Internet service that costs $12 per day.

The hotel’s vast dining room with its wall of windows overlooking the lake accommodates hotel guests and drop-in diners alike, and it’s a busy place,

Revisiting the Glories of Yellowstone

SOM E OF M Y FON DEST M E MOR IES R E VOLV E A ROU N D FA MILY T I M E spent amid the natural wonders of Yellowstone National Park. There’s so much to see and do. Yet fully appreciating that abundance requires some effort. At 3,500 square miles, the park is larger than Delaware and Rhode Island combined. There are more than 350 miles of paved highways. The west and east gates are 100 miles apart.

1 Lake Yellowstone Hotel

2 Firehole Ranch

3 Jenny Lake Lodge

Read more online, including an explanation of the park lodging ownership.

Emerald Pool, Yellowstone National Park

Our suite bedroom at Lake Yellowstone HotelPHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER


serving 500 or more dinners on a typical night, clearly a challenge for the kitchen and waitstaff. The menu features more or less what you’d expect, given the location: Montana lamb, ranch-raised bison, locally farmed trout, Wyoming beef and so on. Our server was hard-working and good-natured, but she was overwhelmed, frankly, as tables along her route competed for her attention. Drinks were slow to arrive; appetizers scarcely beat the entrées to the table; the food was uninspiring.

We understand the obstacles facing the concessionaire. The season is short and the park’s popularity taxes the infrastructure. And the mostly young staff bring more enthusiasm than skill. Our suite was a huge upgrade from anything offered in the park until recently (and at $650 per night, so is the rate). If you’re determined to stay within Yellowstone, the Lake Hotel offers easily the best lodging, but be prepared for inconsistent service and ho-hum food.

T he other option, staying outside the park, requires to-ing and fro-ing — not such a bad

thing, really, since in Yellowstone every drive is a photo safari. Two longtime recommendations come to mind. Firehole Ranch sits on 640 acres along Montana’s Hebgen Lake, 18 miles from the park’s western entrance. The ranch hosts a maximum of 20 guests in log cabins. Two stand-alone cabins with private porches offer the most desirable accommodations. The food is delicious, served in the historic main lodge or, on barbecue night, under the Big Sky. Although fly-fishing is the featured activity at the ranch, most anything you want to see or do in Yellowstone can be arranged.

R ustic Jenny Lake Lodge sits at the foot of the Teton Range, about 45 miles south of

Yellowstone. With an early start, you can tour the major attractions in a day. However, once you’ve settled into one of the cozy log cabins, scattered among pine trees with the mountain peaks towering above, you may choose not to go anywhere else.

The lodge is a genteel, hospitable place. A card in your cabin invites you to a 5 p.m. reception by the stone fireplace in the lobby, where champagne, wine and hors d’oeuvres are served. The three dozen cabins date to the 1920s and ’30s. About half are duplexes with a shared wall and shared porches; the rest are stand-alone. All are nicely restored and comfortably furnished; baths are snug. We had forgotten our own advice and reserved one of the

HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

Lake Yellowstone Hotel & Cabins 89LIKE Proximity to Yellowstone’s attractions. DISLIKE Mediocre service and ho-hum food. GOOD

TO KNOW For choice accommodations and dates, reserve a year in advance. LAKE YELLOWSTONE,

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, WYOMING. TEL. (307) 344-7311. YELLOWSTONENATIONALPARKLODGES.COM

Firehole Ranch A94LIKE Authentic Western ambience. DISLIKE Lack of unified rate that includes all ranch activities. GOOD

TO KNOW Two stand-alone cabins, “Watkins Creek” and “Caddis,” offer the most privacy. LUXURY CABIN,

$750 PER PERSON PER NIGHT; ACTIVITIES EXTRA. 1207 FIREHOLE RANCH ROAD, WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA.

TEL. (406) 646-7294. FIREHOLERANCH.COM

Jenny Lake Lodge A90LIKE Gorgeous, tranquil setting at the foot of the Teton Range. DISLIKE Small baths. GOOD TO

KNOW The hotel offers rustic comfort rather than luxurious accommodations. SUITE CABIN, $870

TO $960 (INCLUDES BREAKFAST AND FIVE-COURSE DINNER). GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, WYOMING.

TEL. (307) 733-4647. GTLC.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on these and six additional recommendations in Wyoming and Montana.

single-room cabins, which on this trip, we found just a little too cozy. Happily, a larger suite was available, so while we enjoyed dinner in the inviting log dining room, a helpful staffer built a fire in the larger cabin’s woodburning stove.

The nightly rate includes breakfast and an unhurried, five-course dinner. The staff know you by name, and service is polished and polite. Night had fallen while we ate, and as we made our way along the path through darkness scented by smoke from the cabins’ wood fires, we were treated to the distant sound of bugling elk. The next day, the clouds parted, revealing the majestic Teton spires, powdered with fresh snow. H

“ Our suite was a huge upgrade from anything offered in the park until recently (and at $650 per night, so is the rate). The Lake Hotel offers easily the best lodging, but be prepared for inconsistent service and ho-hum food.

View of the Tetons from the porch at Jenny Lake LodgePHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

Young moose in Grand Teton National Park

Firehole Ranch, MontanaPHOTO BY KEN TAKATA


On the north edge of Jackson, the Rustic Inn occupies 12 acres at the foot of a high butte along slow-moving Flat Creek, which meanders out of the adjacent National Elk Refuge and on into town. What you notice first are several dozen small log cabins overlooking the creek and landscaped wetlands. But we were guided to the far end of the property, to a handsome lodge, set apart and screened from the rest of the resort by mature trees and shrubs. Inside, the theme is Western but decidedly upscale.

Wingback chairs and a leather couch front a large stone fireplace in the lobby/lounge; bronzes on the tables and art on the walls honor Wyoming’s wildlife, landscape and cowboy tradition. There’s a small but complete bar and a kitchen where breakfasts are cooked to order. A hallway leads to a spa with four treatment rooms, a steam room and a sauna. On a wood deck near the entry, guests can sit with a drink in front of a gas fireplace or step into the tiled whirlpool tub.

We had reserved a One-Bedroom Spa Suite. The nicely furnished and accessorized living room

LOCATED AN HOUR’S DRIVE SOUTH OF YELLOWSTONE, THE TOWN OF JACKSON IS NONETHELESS a convenient place to start a tour of the park. It’s a lively place that offers everything you could want in a Western experience, including a mesmerizing view of the Teton Range.

included a queen-size sleeper sofa. Large casement windows provided ample light but no interesting view. In the bedroom, a leather chair and ottoman sat in a windowed niche beyond the dark wood king bed. The large spa-like bath, accessible from both the bedroom and the living room, held an oversize glass-enclosed shower and a freestanding soaking tub.

Smaller suites are equally plush, but in each case, the tub sits in the bedroom instead of the bath, an arrangement not to our liking. Two two-bedroom, two-bath suites with full kitchens offer the most room and luxury, plus the added option of being combined into one large apartment for a group of friends or family.

The resort’s atmospheric Rustic Bar serves well-made cocktails and offers an adequate wine list, but Jackson has better restaurant options, some with gourmet dining, and some with lots of local atmosphere and really good food. The latter sounded appealing to us after several nights of overly fussy entrées, and when two outfitters we met raved about the fried chicken and the meatloaf at the Rendezvous Bistro, we decided to try it. The restaurant features traditional French and American dishes in a casual but urbane atmosphere. The efficient and cheerful server took our orders. Our cocktails were mixed with a smile and shaken with panache. And when our food came, we tucked in as enthusiastically as everyone else in the place. H

A Family-Friendly Resort in Jackson HoleYELLOWSTONE AND GR AND TE TON NATIONAL PARKS

The Spa Suites at the Rustic Inn A94LIKE Attractive creekside site close to Town Square; cozy bar. DISLIKE Unappealing resort restaurant. GOOD TO KNOW Two two-bedroom suites may be joined to accommodate family groups or friends. ONE BEDROOM SPA SUITE, $890; TWO BEDROOM SPA SUITE, $1,490 (INCLUDES FULL BREAKFAST). 475 NORTH

CACHE STREET, JACKSON, WYOMING. TEL. (307) 413-7685. RUSTICSPASUITES.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on this and two additional recommendations in Jackson Hole.

SITUATED atop 7,000-

foot East Gros Ventre

Butte, 15 minutes from

downtown Jackson,

Amangani remains one of

the finest resorts in North

America. The low-profile

sandstone structure

houses 40 guest suites

that feature sitting areas

with fireplaces, spacious

baths and covered decks.

Western and Native

American artifacts and

woodburning fireplaces

accent the public areas.

At The Grill, the menu

emphasizes local, sustain-

able ranch meats, fresh

fish and seasonal farm-to-

table produce. Amenities

include a spectacular

115-foot year-round heated

outdoor pool. For those

who prefer to stay in the

lively center of Jackson,

The Rusty Parrot Lodge

& Spa provides a good

choice. The 30-room

stone-and-timber lodge is

located a short stroll from

the shops and galleries of

Town Square. The 32-seat

restaurant, Wild Sage,

has an open kitchen and

a river-rock fireplace, and

serves exceptional New

American cuisine.

HOTEL UPDATE

Two Jackson Classics

Read more about these classics online.

Amangani

CO

UR

TE

SY

AM

AN

RE

SO

RT

S Rustic Inn Spa Suites exterior, and our accommodationPHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER


A resort since 1948, Shore Lodge, as its name suggests, is situated lakeside and offers 77 rooms and suites, 62 of which have water views. In 2008, the resort, along with the Whitetail Club residential community, was a sentimental purchase by Joe Scott, grandson of grocery magnate Joe Albertson. He wanted to modernize the lodge while maintaining the charm and family-friendly appeal that he recalled from childhood. An investment of more than $10 million has resulted in upgraded rooms and a spa.

The property offers accommodations on three levels, with the lower level opening onto groomed sandy beaches — a nice feature for younger children. We stayed in a spacious Lake View Suite on the third floor. A living room featured large bay windows and a small terrace. The dining room came with a mini-kitchen area. The bedroom was windowless, which was disappointing. The bath provided a walk-in shower and tub, but was very dark, owing to its green marble and brown wallpaper. Executive Suites are worth the upgrade alone for their larger, nicer baths done in cream-colored tile.

The lodge has three restaurants, all with spectacular lake views. The marina-side Lake Grill is the place to enjoy breakfast or lunch. Here, the food is good, if unremarkable, but the service can be slow. At The Narrows, a changing dinner menu features Northwest cuisine with dishes such as elk chop with smoked mushrooms and huckleberry sauce. After dinner, we wandered over to the Narrows Grill, a popular bar, for a “huckle-tini.” Huckleberries grow generously in the summer around McCall, attracting large numbers of black bears.

Family amenities at Shore Lodge include an in-house movie theater, game room, indoor basketball court and outdoor pool area with hot tub. However, the most fun can be had on the lake itself. Payette Lake covers 5,330 acres and, being in the shape of a horseshoe, is larger than it appears from the lodge. The water is pristine, cool and perfect for an invigorating swim. We took out kayaks and paddled right by a moose and her calf. Another highlight was renting a Manitou pontoon boat, a well-equipped floating living room with enough power for water

LAST YEAR, THE SUN VALLEY LODGE WAS BEING RENOVATED, SO, DEPRIVED OF A CUSTOMARY summer retreat, we decided to take our extended family to another Idaho resort. From Boise, a scenic two-hour drive along the Payette River brought us to McCall, a remote town with around 3,000 inhabitants set at the edge of snow-fed Payette Lake.

sports. For adults, the principal amenity is The Cove spa, where we enjoyed soaking in the indoor and outdoor saltwater immersion pools. Guests at Shore Lodge have the privilege of playing at Whitetail Club golf course, with a beautiful layout woven through the forested residential area. The driving range itself is a joy, so head over at least an hour before your tee time. In general, the course is uncrowded — we had the links to ourselves on a Saturday.

Downtown McCall, with its quaint shops, is less than a mile from the resort. On more than one evening, we took the entire family to Steamers, run for the past 10 years by local chef Darren Strandell and his wife, Lauri. Menu highlights included tuna tartare with avocado and capers, manila clams from Puget Sound, and a lamb and trout dinner served with Idaho Yukon Gold mashed potatoes. H

Idyllic Idaho Lakeside RetreatDOWNTIME IN TR ANQUIL MCCALL

Shore Lodge A90LIKE The lakeside setting; the abundance of activities; the large, comfortable rooms. DISLIKE Slow service; our windowless bedroom. GOOD TO KNOW Only lakeview rooms should be considered. Book well in advance, as summer is extremely popular. Fall is a nice time to go without the children. Internet is not reliable or fast in McCall. LAKE VIEW KING SUITE, $260; EXECUTIVE LAKE VIEW KING SUITE, $410. 501 WEST

LAKE STREET, MCCALL, IDAHO. TEL. (208) 634-2244. SHORELODGE.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on this and one other recommendation in Idaho.

IDAHO

MONTANA

WY

OM

ING

OR

EG

ON

WA

SH

ING

TO

N

BOISE

SUN VALLEY

McCALL

0

0

100 MI

100 KM

JACKSON

YELLOWSTONENATIONAL

PARK

Sun Valley UpgradeSUN VALLEY LODGE is

undergoing long-overdue

refurbishments, including

new baths and larger

rooms, some of which

will now have fireplaces.

Public areas are being

updated, too, and a

20,000-square-foot spa

wing is being constructed

near the round outdoor

pool. The lodge is set to

reopen in June. I do not

currently recommend the

property, but intend to pay

a visit soon.

Shore Lodge and marinaPHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

L AST WORD

THERE IS A POINT in the

year when my thoughts

turn inevitably to Europe.

Blissful memories resurface

of leaving the cool of the

lobby at the Hassler Roma

and descending the Spanish

Steps, favorite guidebook in

hand, into a sun-drenched

Piazza di Spagna. Or of

heading back from Musée

Picasso through the

exquisite vaulted arcades

of the Place des Vosges to

the leafy sanctuary of the

Pavillon de la Reine hotel.

I have a recurring, but as

yet unrealized, fantasy of

spending a month in May

and June slowly making my

way from the Amalfi Coast

to Paris and, ultimately,

London. My journey would

follow the progress of the

warm weather to more

northerly latitudes, so that

the trees would be always be

smothered in blossom and

the spring flowers ever in

bloom. There is, of course,

only one snag. The weather

is never quite as reliable as

one might wish. Over the

years, I have noticed that

many Americans assume

that as soon as the vernal

equinox has passed, the

Mediterranean is warm

enough for swimming and

the sun beats down on the

vineyards of Chianti. In

fact, even southern Europe

is only reliably hot and

sunny from mid-June to

the end of August. Which

is not to say that you can’t

have perfect weather in

Tuscany in early May, just

that it isn’t a foregone

conclusion. I shan’t give up

on my fantasy, but when I

do eventually find time for

the European trip of my

dreams, I’ll be sure to take

an umbrella along with

the sunscreen.

Europe in Springtime

Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2015 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu

L AST LOOK

New and Noteworthy

L’Albereta Spa UpgradedNowadays, every self-

respecting luxury hotel has

a spa, yet I am frequently

astonished by how few

are distinctive, imagina-

tive or, frankly, worth the

money. One conspicuous

exception has long been

the Espace Vitalité Henri

Chenot at L’Albereta, my

recommended property in

the hills of Franciacorta a

few minutes from Lake Iseo

and an hour’s drive east of

Milan. After a brief closure,

the spa reopened in March

having been extended and

redesigned. A new menu of

treatments is administered

by more than 30 physi-

cians, therapists, dietitians,

osteopaths and beauticians.

Aside from numerous types

of massage, the spa special-

izes in hydro-aromatherapy

and phyto-mud therapy,

plus personalized health

and nutritional programs.

Time Travel in the Andaman IslandsThe world has changed

beyond recognition during

my 35 years of globe-trot-

ting, but a few areas remain

relatively unknown. One

such place is the Andaman

Islands archipelago in

the Bay of Bengal. North

Sentinel Island is famous

as the home of a Paleolithic

people, the Sentinelese,

who vigorously resist any

contact with the outside

world. They seem to have no

agriculture and no means

of producing fire, and their

language is unclassified.

Elsewhere, the Andamans

are similar to the Maldives

— aside from a complete

lack of luxury resorts. This

may be about to change,

however, with the opening in

2015 of Jalakara, a boutique

hotel on Havelock Island.

Soon, perhaps, only a space

plane will take you some-

where truly unexplored.

New Kyoto RyokanIn Kyoto, I currently

recommend two tradi-

tional Japanese inns, or

ryokans. One, Hiiragiya,

dates from 1818, while the

other, Tawaraya, has been

owned by the same family

for nearly 300 years. In

March, they were joined

by an interloper, Suiran, a

39-room ryokan now part

of the Starwood Luxury

Collection portfolio. Located

in scenic western Kyoto,

the hotel occupies part of

the grounds of Tenryu-ji,

the head temple of the

Tenryu branch of Rinzai

Zen Buddhism. In addi-

tion to newly built rooms

and facilities, the property

includes restored historic

wooden structures. Suiran

promises to be a remarkable

combination of modernity

and tradition. I will bring you

a firsthand report later in

the year.

Discover More at AndrewHarper.com Find additional stories, my trip videos and more photography throughout the month on our website. Look for these symbols in this print edition, then visit The Hideaway Report at AndrewHarper.com. = additional related article = slideshow = video

National Park Private JourneysA FAMILY EXPEDITION

to one of our great national

parks is a classic part of

an American summer.

Our new travel partner,

National Parks Revealed,

specializes in customized

private journeys for those

in search of authenticity

and adventure. The compa-

ny’s staff has researched

and vetted the parks’

upscale hotels, resorts and

lodges. They know the best

trails, the places to escape

the crowds and, above all,

the most knowledgeable

private guides.

FROM THE TR AVEL OFFICE

Hallway décor at Point Yamu by COMOon Phuket, ThailandPHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

View a slideshow of my favorite Southeast Asia trip photos online.

Hideaway Report

Documents

Transcript of Hideaway Report