INTRODUCTION

“Campus Walk” is an effort of Architect Saif Ul Haque towards development of a

guideline for conservation policy of the sites in Dhaka University area and awareness. It

started during a slide presentation of architecture of Dhaka to the Asian Study group. The

enthusiastic audience proposed a tour to the architectural sites in Dhaka.

During the visit, viewing the condition of the built heritage initiated the architect to

undertake a comprehensive conservation project of the remains in the Dhaka University

area and the greater Ramna.

And from then on, a tour within the Dhaka University campus is arranged in irregular

basis. The sites visited in the Dhaka University campus is known as the “Campus Walk”.

The beginning of Dhaka University was a splendid Imperial compensation of the British

for the annulment of the partition of Bengal in 1911.

The suggested site for the University of Dhaka was the forming

part of the civil station at Ramna where a wave of building

activities were generated to house the provincial government

officials in 1905.

Dhaka has gone through many phases during her 400 years of

existence. The major historical phases of the city are

Mughal (1608 – 1764)

Colonial (1764-1947)

Modern

Interestingly, “Campus Walk” takes us to remain of each & every era that the city has

gone through.

The City of Dhaka throughout her history suffered from a lack of planning and relied very

much on spontaneous and haphazard growth. The demarcation of pre Mughal Dhaka,

Mughal Dhaka or Colonial period is on the verge of disappearing due to such

uncontrolled unplanned development process.

The objective of the walk is to

Creating awareness on built heritage

Preservation of the historic sites and significant buildings

Drawing attention to their conservation needs

1. HISTORY OF DHAKA UNIVERSITY CAMPUS

1.1 Decision of the establishment of a University

The partition of Bengal in 1905 gave people of Dhaka opportunities

to develop in education sector, economy that it was deprived from.

When the partition was annulled in 1911, the establishment of Dhaka

University came as compensation to its people in 1921.

1.2 The Site

The proposed site for the university was about one square mile area of Ramna civil line of

the government of East Bengal and Assam.

The history of Ramna dates back to 1610 of Mughal period. The name Ramna was also

given by the Mughal. At that time in Nilkhet two residential areas, Mahalla Chiestian and

Mahalla Sujatpur were developed for the Mughal High officials.

During the time of Islam Khan, Dhaka flourished as the capital of Mughal subader in

1608. When Shah Suja, shifted the capital to Rajmahal in 1640 along with many areas of

Dhaka, Ramna became barren.

From then on the city continued to decline until the middle of 18th century. With the

ascendant of the British, the middle 18th century marked an end to the decline and lead to

a physical renewal of the city.

Colonial Dhaka was divided broadly into two areas, one that overlapped and stretched

from the existing Mughal city and the other developed away from the existing city into

newer grounds. The later is Ramna.

Dhaka University Campus & its surrounding

The features of the renewed physical growth of this period were the attempts of the

colonial power to build urban environment they were familiar with in their adopted city.

The first rebuilding of Ramna started as early as 1825. The jungles of Ramna were

cleared for laying out a racecourse and a European club.

The gradual colonization of Ramna was started by way of constructing

garden and country houses in 1840, led by an Armenian landlord. The

first houses in Ramna found themselves in a real wilderness.

When the city became capital of new province of Bengal in 1905, the

government buildings were placed south of Ramna racecourse. A

spacious garden suburb with bungalows for civil servants was laid

out north of it.

The government buildings constructed during the partition of Bengal were government

houses, educational institutes and residences of civil servants. Curzon Hall, Old High

Court was built at this time. This new official enclave was given away to the Dhaka

University after the annulment of the partition.

At present, the area from the Arts Faculty of Dhaka University to Bangla academy was

known as Sujatpur. To the south west of the old racecourse was the area named

“Chiestian”.

The Nawabs of Dhaka developed Shahbag during the colonial period; it was part of the

“Bag e Padshahi”, the Mughal garden. Which was also a part of Ramna. The Nawab’s

pleasure garden lives in documents only. Now the university Arts Faculty and Institute of

Fine Arts are here.

1.3 Reminiscences of the past

The historical background of Dhaka University area identifies that it

not only owns elegant buildings from the British colonial rule but also

of different artifices of different historical phases that the city has gone

through.

Dhaka University also introduced the modern architecture of

Bangladesh with the two great buildings, Institute of Fine Arts and the

Dhaka University Library, then known as Public Library.

The edifices of different periods existing in the campus are

1. Musa Khan mosque

2. Khaza Shahbaz mosque and tomb

3. Nimtoli Dewri

4. Greek mausoleum

5. Ghuru Dawra

6. Temple inside Teacher Student Center

7. Curzon Hall

8. Darbar Hall

9. Fazlul Haque hall

10. Salimullah Hall

11. Medical College

12. Bardhaman house

13. Dhaka university Vice Chancellor house

14. Art College

15. Dhaka University Library

16. Teacher student center, Dhaka University

17. Shiv temple

2. CAMPUS WALK

2.1 The Tour

The buildings visited in the “Campus Walk” are tomb, two different styles of mosques,

and a house to accommodate the council member of the governor of the colonial emperor.

Of modern period are a institution and one library. Most of these buildings are still in use.

The chronological lists of these edifices are

1. Musa Khan Mosque (early 17th century, Pre Mughal era)

2. Khaza Shahbaz Mosque & Tomb (1679,Mughal)

3. Greek Memorial (1843)

4. Curzon Hall (1904, Colonial)

5. Bardhaman House (1906, Colonial)

6. Art College (1953, Modern)

7. Dhaka University Library (1952~1955, Modern)

8. Teacher Student Center (1966, Modern)

2.2 The Edifices

The following describes and assess the architectural qualities of the buildings and their

historical context.

Mosque of Musa Khan (Early 17th century):

The Subader Islam Khan was send to the province to calm the rebelling “Baro Bhuiyans”,

the sovereign rulers of Sonargaon. Musa khan was the son of Isa Khan, who was the most

prominent of the “Baro Bhuiyans”. It is believed that Musa Khan has erected this mosque

in the early 17th century. But Dani has shown that the mosque was actually built by the

grandson of Musa Khan.

The mosque is located in the northwest corner of the

present Shahidullah Hall. It was known as “Bag E

Musa” at that time. Which means the garden of the

Muslims.

The mosque was built on a high platform above a series of living cells. Its eastern paneled

face is pierced with 3 arched doorways. Each opening under a half dome and flanked on

either side with slender pilasters.

There are four-corner turrets and the prayer chamber is covered with 3-shouldered domes,

each resting on a battlemented rim. The grave of Musa khan is located to the northeast of

the mosque.

It is the only remains of pre Mughal Dhaka.

Khaza Shahbaz Mosque & Tomb (1679):

With a Mughal mosque, a tomb structure and an almost intact gateway, “Khaza Shahbaz”

is a trace of very few extant Mughal structures in the city.

Haji Khaza Shahbaz was known as the merchant prince.

It was the era when Bengal was experiencing the status of provincial Mughal

capital. At that time, Shaista Khan was the subedar. It was the golden phase

in history of Dhaka. Khaza Shahbaz built the mosque in 1679 AD

The mosque is situated upon a high land in the northwest part of the

complex. Stylistically, the mosque belongs to the Shaista Khani architecture. Externally it

measures 68’x25’ elongated to the north south. It has four octagonal turrets at four

corners, rising little above the roof level. The mosque featured three domes on a spacious

oblong structure.

The tomb structure is situated upon another highland 50’ northeast of the mosque. The

structure is derived from the basic module of indo Islamic tomb structure. A

hemispherical dome was upon a cubic volume. The south wall had 3 entries, of which

only the middle one now exists. Four octagonal turrets in four corners rise vertically over

the roof ending up into solid kiosks. The extended part of the tomb of Shahbaz is covered

by douchala vault, which is an indigenous influence of Mughal architecture.

Use of bold panel work upon plastered wall, controlled use of low relief work of

vegetable origin, small blind arches and an attempt to make the simply double curved

arch more impressive by using multi foiled plaster work, all indicates a Mughal style with

the essence of local influence.

Once to the southwest corner of Ramna racecourse, the mosque and the tomb stand in

solitary. Now, at the west there stands the red brick Shishu academy and another corner

the sculptural mausoleum of the three leaders. The mosque stands in midst of these

structures testifying time.

Greek Memorial (1840 ~ 1843):

The first Greek settlement at Dhaka was established in the second half of the 18th

century. They were the descendants of Alexis Argyree, the founder of the geek colony at

Calcutta. Alexis and others at that time setup their residences in Dhaka and Bakerganj.

The first church of the Greek was built in 1821. But it collapsed during the

devastated earthquake of 1897. Some referred that they also had their separate

small cemetery in Sujatpur, which is now in the Dhaka university campus.

The only reminiscence of the Greek now is the tomb of an unknown person in

the Dhaka University's Teacher student center compound on Kazi Nazrul Islam Avenue.

It is a square building with projecting bays on 4 sides. The plan is of cruciform

in shape. The projecting bays on each face consist of 2 fluted Doric columns

each carrying a triangular pediment.

The eastern face is inscribed with a Greek inscription “blessed are those who

came and received”. The entrance to the memorial is from the east. There are

nine black stone inscriptions on the interior walls. Five are in Greek and four in English.

This little tomb now stands silently in the corner of the lawn of the university’s teacher

student center grilled to avoid disturbance. Some stops by to figure out the reasons of its

existence there. Some just pass by without knowing.

Curzon Hall (1904):

In 1904, the premise of Dhaka College was decided to move to Nimtoli. For that purpose

65 ekor of land was acquired from the Railway Department. The Bhawal Princes

promised to build a library for the College in the acquired land. The library was named

after then governor, Lord Curzon. This is the premises of the now Science faculty of the

Dhaka University, the Curzon Hall.

Curzon Hall is the earliest of the buildings that came in existence during the first

partition of Bengal in 1904. Lord Curzon himself laid its foundation in 1904, 19th

February.

The building illustrated a blending of Mughal and European Renaissance

architecture. An Artist from Rajasthan prepared the design of the building. The building

is symmetrical in plan facing north. It has a central hall and series of rooms in the either

side of its east and west wings. It’s central projecting bay with wide arched portals

windows above has a compelling charm of it’s own.

The length, breadth and the height of the building are 110’x60’x48’. The

verandas have fretted screens with arched openings. The arched opening

in the ground floor is of European style while upper floor opening is

influenced by Mughal architecture. Its elevations are attractively

variegated by a series of panels, bracketed eaves and kiosks crowning

the roof. The corners are relieved with minars.

As the science faculty grew, a number of three and four storey buildings

were built in close proximity of the Curzon Hall to accommodate

various science departments including one dormitory.

These buildings were built of red oxide coated exposed brick and according to

architectural vocabulary of the Curzon Hall. These buildings have given the campus a

sense of aesthetic consistency and dignity.

Bardhaman House (1906):

Dhaka being the capital in 1905 was vibrant with building activities of hybrid

Mughal and European style. Along with beautiful structures for government

offices and residences for officials were built in different location in the vast

Ramna.

The administrative council members came to Dhaka on official work once a

year. Three important building for them were built during this time.

“Bardhaman House” is one of these three buildings constructed in

1906. Maharaja of Bardhaman built this building for his convenience.

The building was originally a two-storied building. It is an exclusive

colonial style of the late 19th century and early 20th century.

The plan is rectangular in shape. The central bay is projected out with the main entrance

portico. Wide arcaded veranda runs in front of the structure with balustrade railings. The

arches are all semi circular. The verandahs act as shading devices and easy circulation.

There are semicircular open balconies. The main arcaded portico through a flight of red

oxide steps to the building leads to the wooden staircase giving access to the upper story.

Another floor was added in 1985.

After the partition of 1947, the building as used as official residence of the new prime

minister of East Bengal. It was on December 3 1955, Bardhaman house was declared the

Bangla academy, an institution devoted to the development of language, literature and

culture of our country.

Art College (1953):

Construction of the Art College in 1955 on the west of the Suhrawardi Uddyan in Dhaka

marked a distinct and definite change in architectural scene in Bangladesh. The use of

exposed brickwork and roof overhangs reflected the architect’s concern for exploration of

the aesthetic possibilities of indigenous building materials and means to ensure protection

from the climate.

The site is a beautiful wooded tract of land.

The front block of school stands on pilotis allowing entering the building

without any obstacle. The openness of the building is thus established.

Hand made terracotta jails were used to define boundaries and

spaces and also used in the veranda railings. Conscious efforts were

made to interrelate the open space within and outside the school

boundaries.

The pathways through levels of enclosures and garden spaces and a natural and sensorial

ambience, create a campus ideal for the contemplation and learning of arts.

The site of Art College was garden of the Nawabs. There was a pond for the female

members of the Nawab family. It had artificial system of filing and drainage of water.

According to the historian Muntasir Mamoon it’s the dry pond in the Art College.

The few public spaces that still exist in Dhaka; Art college premise is one of them.

Whether it’s to welcome baishak (Bengali new year), or falgun (spring) or to protest, the

Institute of Fine Arts is always vibrant with people, with color.

Dhaka University Library (1952~55):

The construction of the Public library (now Dhaka University library) marked the Bengali

modernism introduced by architect Muzharul Islam.

In the Library, flat roofed rectangular volumes lifted from

the ground on cylindrical pilotis, a simple arrangement of

masses, free flowing and interpenetrating spaces,

sunbreakers and screen walls for cutting the glare of the

sun are the dominant features.

Several addition and alteration has been done to the interior of the library to

accommodate the present need. These changed the quality of the space that the building

was actually designed for.

TSC (1966):

To meet the increasing number of students in 1961, a division of Student Affairs of

Dhaka University was formed. This division was later integrated into Teacher Student

Center. The construction of the building started in 1962 and completed in 1966.

TSC is a complex of buildings, providing a wide variety of recreational and cultural

facilities. The center includes a cafeteria, an auditorium with a capacity of 1000, and a

library, reading room, art and music rooms and a stage. It also includes other facilities

such as swimming pool, a provision store, a bookshop and a bank.

Beside the swimming pool, there are unidentified remains of 2 temples and a tomb of a

so-called zamider. There is also a temple of lord Shiva just outside the TSC complex.

According to the priest of the temple, the builder of that temple and these structures are

the same zamider. Inadequate information binds us from being sure. But as the Greek

tomb in the complex, these structures also testifying time from their very beginning.

3 SCOPE OF THE PROJECT

3.1 Prospect of “Campus Walk”

The guideline for developing the campus walk in brief can be sketched out as

Literature survey of published material on the concerned buildings and

area.

Description of the edifices.

Study of existing drawings and photographs

Study of Map of Dhaka University campus.

Survey of existing condition

Photographic survey

“Campus Walk” is at present dealing with the preparation of a general report of

historical analysis and architectural quality of the buildings in concern. This

survey analysis would lead to the answer of the questions

What to conserve

Why to conserve

3.2 Ownership

Though we are saying, it’s a campus walk, the buildings visited in the tour are under

different ownership. Bardhaman House is under “Bangla Academy”; Shahbaz Khan’s

mosque is under the Archeology Department. The rest of them are under the authority of

Dhaka University except Musa Khan mosque and Greek memorial

The Dhaka University Engineering Division is the responsible authority for the

maintenance of the buildings in the campus area. On the recommendation of this division,

the University syndicate takes decisions regarding the funds and other matters.

In 1985, the collapse of Jagannath Hall common room is a tragic example of what could

be also the fate of Curzon hall if not being properly maintained. Jagannath Hall was one

of the first three halls built for Dhaka University. We grieve the death of the students, but

we should have also counted the responsibility of destruction of our built heritage.

The yearly maintenance cost of the lime cement structure of Curzon Hall is rather low. If

the structure were maintained, the situation wouldn’t have as much grave as now. The

corner pillars of the Curzon hall are at present broken. Recently, the balconies of the

Curzon Hall annex have been removed as they were in the condition of falling down.

The renovation or maintenance of the architectural edifices has long been avoided on

grounds of insufficient funds. Proper maintenance could save the buildings falling into

ruins.

ANNEX

Conservation situation in Bangladesh

The law that guides the activities of the Archaeological Department at present was

formulated nearly 100 years ago with very little revision in the recent past. Buildings of

excellence colonial period like Curzon hall, Chummery house, Ruplal house or the

modern architecture of Muzharul Islam or Louis I Kahn’s masterpiece doesn’t confirms

the criteria that is set for to be preserved as heritage as per the legislation of the country.

It focuses more on independent structures or ruins than areas or parts of cities.

Conservation of urban areas remains totally out of consideration.

An important conservation event of the city is the conservation and the

restoration of the Nawab’s palace known, as the Ahsan Manjil. The

palace was conserved, restored and converted into a museum

(1975-1989) by the government architects and engineers. But the

building and her compounds may have been conserved well but it failed

for the conserving the surroundings.

The understanding of conservation whether it is for historical, environmental or economic

reason still remains at a very insignificant level among the city dwellers and decision-

makers.

Conservation in Practice

In the social and economical context of Bangladesh, the decision of preserving an old

building is somewhat very difficult. Considering the monetary value of the location often

the owner demolish building that has historical significance to us.

Sometimes because of non-technical and unskilled persons handling the delicate matter of

restoration and preservation, the character of the architectural monuments are being

altered and tamper with.

In colonial time, the Nawab family of Dhaka developed the area Shahbag. They build

their garden house here. Nawab Abdul Gani also built a zoo in the area. The main garden

house name was “Ehsrat Manjil”. This building was demolished while building the Art

Faculty building for the Dhaka University.

One of the small structures of the nawab’s garden house was in the

Dhaka Museum complex. But the museum authority has removed it. The

“Darbar Hall” of the building is at present the canteen of the Dhaka University. In 1906,

the Muslim League was formed in this building. The fate of this small structure is not also

known.

These decisions of the authorities questions how much are we aware of our historic past?

Should we not ask ourselves what merit does the building posses before dismantling!

Adoptive reuse of the structures may have been considered if experts were consulted.

Awareness

The initiatives in conservation field are few seminars and workshops organized by

number of architects and architectural institutions. A study group “CHETANA” covered

one of the initiatives taken by organizations rather than the government is documentation

of significant monuments across the country. The other notable documentation was done

by the department of architecture of the Engineering University devoted to old Dhaka.

The citizens committee in Chittagong, the second largest city of the country successfully

saved the century old court building from demolition. In addition, in the same city, a

private telecom company who will use it as their office as well as preserve it leased the

rail station from colonial times.

CONTENTS

Introduction

1. History of Dhaka University Campus

1.1 Decision of the establishment of a University

1.2 The Site

1.3 Reminiscences of the past

2. Campus Walk

2.1 The Tour

The Edifices

3. Scope Of The Project

3.1 Prospect of “Heritage Walk”

3.2 Responsible Authorities

Annex

Conservation situation in Bangladesh

Conservation in Practice

Awareness

REFERENCES

Author/Edited by Book

Ahmed Sharif Uddin Dacca: A case study in urban history and development, London: 1986

A.H. Dani Dacca, Dacca, 1957

Ashraf, Kazi Khaleed An architecture of IndependenceBelluardo, James the making of modern south Asia

Islam, Nazrul Dhaka: from city to mega city, Dhaka January 1996

Karim, Abdul Dacca the Mughal capital, Dacca 1964

Mamoon, Muntasir Dhaka Smriti Bsmiritir NogoriDhaka’r hariey jawa chobir khujeyKornel Davidson jokhon dhakayDhakar tukitaki

O’Doyly, Charles Antiquities of Dacca, London, 1824

Rahim, Abdur History of Dacca University, Dacca, 1981

Roy, Jatindramohan Dhakar Itihas

Sarkar, Jadunath History of Bengal, vol ii, Dacca, 1948

Taifoor, S.M. Glimpses of Dhaka, Dhaka, 1984

Papers/Newsletter/Magazine/News paper

Urban Transformation and the Issue of Conservation in DhakaBy Saif Ul Haque

Star City Monday April 5, 2004Monday March 1, 2004Monday February 16, 2004

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