Herbs: Delicious Recipes and Growing Tips to Transform Your Food

JUDITHHANN

DELICIOUSRECIPESANDGROWINGTIPSTOTRANSFORMYOURFOOD

HERBS

CONTENTS

Foreword:MyLifewithHerbsCookingwithHerbsGrowingHerbs

SPRINGSpringHerbsBasilChivesHerbPestoFennelLemonVerbenaHerbTeasLovageMintOreganoTarragonHerbCheeses

SUMMERSummerHerbsBorageDillEdibleFlowersHyssopLavenderRoseHerbIcesSavoryThymeHerbSugarsandSyrups

AUTUMNAutumnHerbsParsley

HerbOilsandVinegarsSageSorrelHerbPreserves

WINTERWinterHerbsBayRisottoChervilCorianderRosemarySaladHerbsandRocketHerbCanapésSweetCicely

Acknowledgments

FOREWORDMYLIFEWITHHERBS

Herbs have taken over my life. They have been catalysts in the kitchen,liberatingmycookingby encouragingme tobemore creative.And theyhavealsohelpedmetobecomeaseriousplantswoman,usingthedifferentshadesofgreen, the texture and shape of the leaves, their intoxicating aroma and theirglorious flowers to transform the look of my garden. When I harvest thesebeautifulherbseveryday,theysoontransformthelookandthetasteofmyfoodtoo.

IfirstrealizedtheirbenefitswhenIusedasmallrangeofherbs,growninpotsatmyLondonhome.Butwhenwedecidedtomovetothecountry,Ilookedfortheperfectopportunitytogrowherbsonalargerscale.Wefoundasmallfarminthe

Cotswoldswith decaying buildings surrounded by neglected, jungly land. Butnear the farmhousewas a shelteredwalled area,with poor, free-draining soil,once used to raise pigs – perfect for cultivating Mediterranean herbs likerosemary, thyme and oregano. An added bonus was that there were shadedcornerswherethesoilcouldbeimprovedformoredemandingherbs.

Cultivating this derelict pig yard, then growing, harvesting and cooking everyculinaryherbIcouldtrackdown,hasprovidedmewithplantsthathaveelevatedmycookingtoanewlevel.Ithasbeenexcitingandinspiring.

Idrewtheplan(picturedopposite)formyherbgardenover20yearsago,beforeanyherbswereplanted.ItfollowedmonthsspentreadingeverybookonherbsIcouldfindinaLondonlibrary,aswellasvisitingmanyfamousgardens.Atonepointmyimpatienthusbandsaid:“Itistimetostopreadingandstartdigging.”AndI’veneverlookedback.

ThetumbledownpigyardhadtheremainsofCotswoldstonewalls.After theyhad been rebuilt, they provided shelter for the herb plants, trapped theirwonderfulscentsandalsoprovidedwallspaceforfigs,grapes,rosesandmorellocherries.Wemadeasmallcentralpondtohousefrogstoeattheslugswhicheattheherbs.Therewasenoughgroundaroundthispondtohavefourformalbeds,withanareatoonesideforannualsaladleavesandapuddingbedwhereIcouldgrowsweetcicely,angelica,lavenderandotherherbsusedindesserts.

Now I am surprised and delighted by how my enthusiasm is inspiring otherpeopleandtofindthatherbsareimprovingtheirlives,too.Inparticular,Igetsomuchpleasurewhenchildrenbecomeinterested.Igaveaselectionofherbplantstotwolocalvillageprimaryschools,forchildrentouseincookerylessonsandto attract bees and butterflies. And my two young granddaughters have beenhelpingmeplant annual seeds since theywere aged twoand four.Becauseoffeelingsoinvolved,theyenjoycollectingdifferentherbs,leavesandflowersandmakingbeautifulmixedsaladswiththem,whichtheytuckintowiththerestofthefamily.

Ouryoungerson,whohadleukaemiaasateenager,persuadedmetostartherbcourses, to raise money for research into the disease. I teach people fromgardeningclubs,herbgroupsandgardentrainingcourses,aswellasenthusiastswho justwant to spendaday learninghow togrowandcookgood food.Theresponsehasbeenfantastic.Peoplenowtravelfromotherpartsoftheworldto

joinacourse,someripouttheirgardenplantsandreplacethemwithdozensofherbs,otherswriteenthusiasticmagazinearticlesorblogsaboutmygarden,orsendmerareherbplantsthroughthepost.Ihaveevenhadherbrecipesnamedafterme, including a cupcakemadewith sweet cicely! It has becomeobviousthatherbsinspirepassionateinterest.

All thisishardworkandmeanssummerholidaysareimpossible.Butduringawinterbreak inThailand, thehotelchefapproachedmeandsaid:“Pleasehelpus.Iknowyouareaherbexpert.”hehadrecognizedmefromTV,Googledmeanddiscoveredmyherbcourses(Hann’sHerbs). Itbecameaworkingholiday,teachingthestaffthebestherbstogrowinthehotel’snewgarden.Soherbshavenotonlytakenovermylife,theyaretakingovermyworld.

COOKINGWITHHERBSNothingtransformsfoodasmuchasherbs.Theybringdepthsofflavourtootheringredients. As we move away from rich, salty recipes, they are usedincreasinglytoenhancethetasteoffood.Andaswellastastingwonderful,theysmellandlookenticingandbringcolourandtexturetotheplate.Sowhenyouusethesegodsofthekitchen,youcookwithallyoursenses.

Supermarketsalesofherbsareincreasing,buttherangeavailableissmall,theyareexpensiveand,evenwhenchemicalsareusedtoprolongshelflife,theysoongostaleandyellow.Bygrowingyourownherbs, inpotsorinthegarden,youcanmakeanyrecipewithoutworryingwhat’sinstockinyourlocalshop.Youcanpickyourherbs justbeforecooking,usingprecisely theamountyouneed,knowingthisfreshnessbringstheoptimumflavour.

The frustration cooks can feelwhen they can’t buy the herbs they need for arecipe was shown when a man I had never seen in my life turned upunannouncedonmydoorsteponemorning,emergingfromacarfullofchildrenandsuitcases.HewasonthewaytoCornwallandhadorderedsomelobsterstobedeliveredtohimthereforaspecialrecipethatneededchervil.Buthecouldnot find it anywhere. Finally, a local greengrocer, who knewmy passion forherbs,pointedhiminmydirection.TorewardhispersistententhusiasmIgavehimahugebagofchervilasaholidaypresent,justasIgiveawaycutherbsandplants to friends,neighboursand tochefswhenweeatout locally inpubsandrestaurantswheretheyreallycareaboutgoodfood.

Manyofmyfavouriteherbsarehardtofindinshops,butareeasytogrowinthegarden. Herbs like chervil, lovage, sorrel and oregano are rarely stocked, buttheythriveyearafteryearinmyherbgardenandareusedindozensofmybestrecipes, like Guinea Fowl with Lovage and Lime (see page 52) or Sorrel IceCream(seepage111).

Thememorable flavour of herbs like these has helped to change the culinarycode that insisted certain herbs always went with particular ingredients – forexample, rosemary or mint with lamb and parsley with fish. Now peopleexperiment.Asmyrecipesshow,Iuserosemarywithorchardfruits,likepears,

andlambwithlavender.Mint isas likelytobeusedindessertsasmeatdishesandparsleyatitsbestismadeintopestoorfreshsauces.

Herbs build up layers of flavour, with “hard” herbs like bay, thyme androsemaryusedforlongcooking,infusingadishwiththeircharacteristic,earthytastes.“Soft”herbslikebasil,coriander/cilantro,parsleyorchervilareaddedattheendofcooking,almostlikeaseasoning.Theycanbescatteredoveradish,mixedintoasauce,oraddedtolightlydressedsaladleaves.Manyofthem,likechervil, have elegant leaves which look perfect as a decoration. When I amchoppingthesesoftherbs,Idoitat thelastminutesothejuicesdonotdryupandtheherbsdonotlosetheirimpactonourtastebuds.Iuseaverysharpknifeto avoid bruising, so the juices are retained inside the herb leaves, achievingtaste,aromaandbeautyallononeplate.

Whenwesitdowntoameal,myguestssometimesfindavaseoffreshlypickedherbsinthemiddleofthetable,whichtheyoftennibbleandalwaystalkabout.Iexplainhowotherpartsoftheworldhavebeenmoreloyaltoherbs–somethingweintheWestarejustwakingupto.

ItellthemaboutthecustomintheMiddleEastofhavingabowlofherbsservedwithmezze,whichisstilldonetoday.Womenbelieveeatingthemmakesthemhealthy and remember the old tradition that these herbs keep theirmen awayfromrivals.

SorrelandchervilhavealwaysbeensoldonFrenchmarketstallsandthesamecanbesaidoforeganoandbasilinItalyandcoriander/cilantroinAsia.Itseemsclear to me that when it comes to herbs, the rest of the world has a lot ofcatchinguptodo.

GROWINGHERBSHerbsarefareasiertogrowthanotherplants,demandingverylittle,butgivingsomuch.Anyonecandoit,onasmallscale inpotsonthewindowsilloronalargerscaleoutside,whetheryougrowtheminamixedflowerbedorallotment,orwhetheryouhavetheluxuryofaseparateherbgardenathome.Andmoreandmorepeoplewantthisconnectionwiththeearthbygrowingherbs,sotheycanhavethegreatpleasureandinspirationintheircookingthatIhavebeensoluckytoexperience.

Theworld’slargestgardeningcharity,TheRoyalHorticulturalSociety,foundina survey that the majority of 16 to 24-year-olds grow plants. “They are nowmoreinterestedinshowingofftheirherbgardensortomatoplantsthantheyarein clubbing,” it said.Rentinghomes is becomingcommon for a lot ofpeople.Growingherbsandvegetablescanbemoreofachallengeifyouhavenogardenandcannot findanallotment.Butherbsgrowwell inpots andwindowboxes,while indoor greenwalls are also being set up, where herbs can be grown inverticalplanters.

MatthewPottagewho,at29,becametheyoungestcuratorat theRHSin2015,sayspeopleinthesurveyfindthatgrowingherbsisacreativewaytospendtimeawayfromacomputerorphonescreen.“We’verealizedthatahandfuloffreshcoriander/cilantro or basil,which you can servewith a tomato andmozzarellasalad,issosimpleandgoodafterastressfuldayatwork,”hesaid.

Herbs take up much less time and space than vegetables, making them theperfectconveniencefood.Theycanbeharvestedthroughouttheyear,justbeforeyouwant themfora recipe.Youeat themwhenyouneed them,notwhen thecrop’smaturitydictates.Herbscanalsobe left to theirowndevicesandrarelyneed watering because so many thrive in hot, dry conditions. They are alsoeconomical.Asmallbunchofherbsmakesahugeimpactonadish.

Theiraromaandsheerbeautymeanthatherbscanalsohelptoreducestress.Agroupofdifferentherbswill rewardyouwithvarying shadesofgreen inyourflowerbedorwindowbox,manyunusual leafshapesandglorious flowers inarainbow of colours. These attract bees and butterflies and ward off unwanted

insects,too.Growingthemprovidestheopportunitytocrushthescentedleavesbetweenyourfingersforthejoyofthesmellofrosemary,bayormint.

The scent released as Iwork in the herbgardenbrings backmemories.Sweetcicelymakesmethinkof theaniseed-tastingliquoriceIusedtobuyatasweetshop after school. Moroccan mint reminds me of a wonderful holiday inMarrakechandtheAtlasMountains,orthespearmintIchewedasachild.AndthymetakesmebacktoscentedwalksamongthewildplantsofProvence.

CHOOSINGYOURHERBS

Beforeyoucanworkoutaplanforplanting,youneedtolookatthespaceyouhave available –whether in a gardenor in containers –what kindof growingconditionsyoucanprovide,andwhichherbsyouaremostlikelytouse.Ifyouhave just a few pots on a sunny patio, your choice of herbsmay be differentfrom someone with a shady spot or a bigger garden. You will find detailedinformationonindividualherbsthroughoutthebook.

Perennialherbswilllastfordecadesiftheyareplantedwheretheyhavetherightsoil, therightpositioninsunorshadeandareprunedattherighttimeofyear,whichisnormallyafterflowering.Manyofthem,likethyme,marjoram,hyssop,rosemary,sage,bayandotherMediterraneanherbs,needsunandfree-draining

soil. Only a few like rich soil, damp conditions or shade. But herbs are easygoingandmy150differentculinaryplantscopewell in thesheltered,dryandmainlysunnyherbgarden.

Ihavebeennurturing the sameperennialherbplants forover20years since Ifirstputtheminthegarden.Bycuttingbackafterflowering,thedifferentsages,the rosemary, the chives, the sorrel and the lovage, for example, have beenthrivingfor twodecadeswithoutreplacements.Theyrarelyneedanyattention,like watering or feedingwith fertilizers. This is gardening at its simplest andmostsatisfying.

Annualherbs–likechervil,purslane,dillandcoriander/cilantro–aswellasthesaladherbs– like rocket/arugula,mizuna, cressandmustards–are sowneachyear,andIcollecttheseedsfromoneyearforgrowingthenextcrop.Therearetwoimportantsowingtimes.Byplantingtheseedsinmid-springandtheninlatesummer, I have a year-round supply of these herbs and salad herbs in mykitchen. It is that simple. The salad herbs grow particularly well through thewintermonths,whentheirgreen,maroonandgoldenleavesofdifferentshapesbrightenupmysalads.

GROWINGINCONTAINERS

Allherbs,annualsandperennials,canbegrownincontainers,wheretheylikealoam-basedsoilorcompostwithextragritaddedtoimprovedrainage.Asherbsdislikebeingwaterloggedinwinter,usingporousterracottapotswillalsohelp.

The lifespan of herbs grown in containers is shorter than plants grown in agarden,butyoucanencouragetheirsurvivalbyfeedinganddividingtheplants,keeping only the vigorously growing parts of the roots. Protect them in thewinterbecause theyaremorevulnerable to frostdamage thanherbsplanted intheground.

Growing inpotscurbs thewandering tendenciesofvigorousspecies likemint,which is essential for somany recipes. If I had to chooseonemint togrow itwouldbeBowles’smintbecauseitisgoodformintsauce,herbteaandservingwith desserts. Some people plant mint in a large pot, then sink that into thegroundtostoptherootsfromspreadingtoofar.

TheotherherbsIrecommendgrowinginpots,ifthereisnogarden,includemyfavourites, lovage and sorrel, which are impossible to find in supermarkets.Good garden centres, however, sell these plants, which survive for years. Iwould also grow thyme, oregano, rosemary and sage, which all prefer free-drainingsoil in the sun. Ifyouhave space,growchervil fromseedeveryyearbecause,unlikebasilandcoriander/cilantro,itishardtofindinfoodshops.

Myother favourite“five-star”herbsare tarragon,chives,bay,dill,parsleyandmixedsaladherbs.Saladherbscanbeboughtonasmallscaleinoneseedpackettogrowinpotsandwindowboxes.Theyshouldbecutforeatingeveryfewdayswhentheleavesaresmallandtender.

HERBSINTHEFLOWERBORDER

Inasmallgarden,anotherwayofplantingagoodherbselectionistogrowthemwithherbaceousplantsorshrubsinamixedborder.Tallarchitecturalherbslikefennel,lovageandangelicaworkwellatthebackofaborder.Rosemaryandbaycanbeshapedtoaddstructure.Thyme,chivesandparsleyarebestatthefront,and plants like hyssop and marjoram add latesummer colour in mid-border,whenmostotherplantshavefinishedflowering.

Whenyouarethinkingaboutwheretoplaceherbsinamixedgarden,youneed

toconsiderwhichplantsyoualreadyhave,whatcoloursyoulikeandwhat theoveralleffectshouldbe.Youneedtothink,too,aboutwhichherbsneedsunandfree-draining soil, including all the Mediterranean herbs. Plants like chervil,parsley, coriander/cilantro and chiveswill thrive in any shadeyouhave in thegarden,althoughtheycancopewithsunnyspots,too.Sorrel,angelica,tarragonandlemonbalmlikepartialshade,whilelovageandbergamotpreferrichsoil.

YOUROWNHERBGARDEN

If,likeme,youareluckyenoughtohaveplentyofspaceforyourherbgarden,once you have thought about the basics, you’ll find that extra time spentresearchingandplanning isveryworthwhile.Plotoutyourbeds, rememberingnot tomake them too large because ideally herbs should never bemore thanabout70cm/30infromapath,sotheyareeasytopickandtend.Youmaylikeafree-and-easydesignorsomethingmoreformal,whichsuitsherbswell.

Inmytraditionalgarden,alltheherbbedshavealivingedgetogivedefinition,using plants like parsley, chives, salad burnet, sorrel, alpine strawberries,primrosesandviolets.Ialsouselow,trimmedhedgesofwintersavoryandwallgermander.Thyme,rosemary,rockhyssop,lavenderandsmallboxcanalsobeused.Buyplantsyoungtoproducecompacthedgeswhichdonotbecomeleggy.Plantingclippedevergreenherbstomakegeometricshapes,calledknotgardens,was first recorded in the 15th century.And they are enjoying a resurgence ofinteresttoday.

As with flower beds, height is important in the design of formal areas.Rosamundi, a sport,orgeneticmutation, from theApothecary’sRose, isplanted inthemiddleofmybeds,providingnotonlystructurebutalsomassesofdeep-pinkstriped petals for recipes like Rose Petal Jam (see page 104). Each one issurroundedbymoundsoflemonbalm,alternatingwithshowygarlicchives.

Thebeds are filledwithMediterraneanherbs likemarjorams, thymes,hyssopsandsages.Thesedroughtloversmakethefinestofgardenplantsbecausemanyofthemkeeptheirleavesallyear,sotheyalwayslookgood.Eye-catchingherbsalso include rosemary shaped into standards, as well as fans on south-facingwalls. Different sages are used as full stops at the corners of the beds, whilesavoryhedgesarevaluableasaframework.

THEPERFECTGARDEN

THEPERFECTGARDEN

Inthepast,herbsplayedabiggerpart inourlivesthantheydotoday,whetheryoulivedinamonasterywithaformalherbgarden,usedtheminyourkitchenorwatched the trusted village herbalist or witch concocting potions for sickpatients. John Evelyn, the 17th-century writer and gardener, explained all theimportantherbstogrow.Hislistwasalmostaslongasthecollectionofover150culinaryherbsIgrowtoday.ItseemstohavebeentheVictorianswhodestroyedtheloveofherbsinBritainwiththeirplain,dullfood,whilemanyotherpartsoftheworldremainedmoreloyaltotheirtraditionalherbs.

Mychamomileseatunderaroseandjasminearchistheperfect,scentedplacetorest,enjoythecoloursandaromasinmygardenandthinkabout thefutureforherbs. I oftenwonderwhat else I can do to encourage a revival of interest inusing these miraculous plants to transform the taste of our food around theworld.

SPRING

SPRINGHERBSLikefair-weathergardeners,manyperennialherbshibernateinthecoldwintermonths.Butnowtheyarebothbravelypushingthroughthesoiland therearenewsignsof fresh, livelyherbsappearingeveryday.Chivesandsweetcicelyoftenmaketheirdebutinlatewinter,buttheyaresoonjoinedbyfennel,lovageand wild rocket/arugula and then mint, bergamot, angelica,lemonbalm,buckler-leafsorrel,garlicchivesandsavory.Thesalad herbs sown in late summer are still going strong, but Isownewseedsoutsideinmid-springtoguaranteeayear-roundsupply. I find spring the most inspiring season in the herbgarden.

Fresh, young chives encourageme tomakeBorscht (seepage30) and I serve

thisbeetroot/beetsoupwithablobofsourcreamandsnippedchivesscatteredontop. I also make vichyssoise at this time of the year and serve it cold withsnipped young chives to give it evenmore flavour. Imakewine vinegarwithfreshleavesofsaladburnet(seepage147).TheVictorianslovedthecucumbertasteofthisvinegarandImakeaburnetsalad,usingthesaladburnetvinegartomake the dressing. I also make wine vinegar with the chervil that is still soperfectafterthewintermonths.Chervilvinegartastesmuchlikeitsmorefamousrivaltarragonvinegar,soitisaveryusefuladditioninthekitchen.

Springisthebusiestseasonintheherbgarden.Thereissomuchtodo,includingsowingannualherbslikedill,summersavoryandcoriander/cilantro,aswellasplanting some herb seeds in trays in the greenhouse to provide earlier crops.Whybuyexpensive,pre-packedleavesin“modifiedatmosphere”packagingthatcan strip out their vitamins, when they can be simply grown at home in thegarden,onthewindowsillorinpotsandtroughs?Toachieveamixtureofleafflavour,colourandtexture,Igrowanumberofsaladherbs.Butyoucanbuyasimilarmixinoneseedpackettomakeiteasytohaveavarietyoftastesinapotorwindowbox,availabletoeatasyouneedthem.

I sow salad herbs like rocket/arugula, purslane, Greek cress, basil, Americanland cress, red orach, lamb’s lettuce/corn salad, endive and chicory, mizuna,mibuna andmustards likeRedGiant,Golden Streaks andRed Frills, plantingthem inapatternofcircles, trianglesandstraight lines tomake the saladherbbedlookinteresting.Infourtosixweekstheleavescomethroughthesoil.Theyarepickedveryyoungandbypinchingoffthelowerleaves,leavingarosetteofafewsmallleavesinthemiddle,theherbsarereadytoharvestagainafterafewdays.Theseannualsalsolastlongertreatedthisway.

WhenIstartedcookinginthe1960s,recipeswererichandrarelyusedanythinggreen.Nowherbsand leavesare thestarsonourplates,with their looks, tasteandhealthyproperties.Idon’tgoasfarasthelateChristopherLloyd,thegreatgardener and cook at Great Dixter, East Sussex, southern England, who onceserved27differentleavesinonesalad.ButIamgettingclose.

Edible flowers also make salads look special and in spring I use violets andprimrosesinsalads,withfreshlovageleaves.IsowviolaHeartsease,nasturtium,anchusa,andthemarigoldCalendulaofficinalisinthegreenhouse.Butborage–bothblueandwhiteflowered–alwaysself-seedsallovertheherbgarden.Likeunrulyyoung children it canget out of control, poppingup, full of energy, in

every gap. The exquisite flowers decorate food and ice cubes, and the leavesmakeachilledBorageandCucumberSoup(seepage85).Iliketotrynewideaseveryyear.LastspringIsowedJapanesechrysanthemum,Shungiku,forthefirsttime,enjoyingitsedibleflowersandleaves.Thisyearseveralnewflowersandherbsgetatrial.

Seedsaresownoutside5cm/2inapart, indrillsabout15cm/6inwide.Theyarecovered with fine soil and a little organic fertilizer. Modules are used in thegreenhousetoreducetheneedforthinningoutandtheriskofdamagingdelicateroots. For a succession of herbs throughout the season, a few seeds are sowneverymonthuntil latesummerwhenall thesaladherbsaresownagain, tousethroughout the winter. During the coldermonths, the leaves are never full ofholesfromthefleabeetleandtheydonotboltquickly,bothofwhichcanhappeninspringandsummer.

Therearemanyotherspringjobs.Herbslikesage,wintersavory,bayandthymeneedtobetidiedup.Cutbackoldwoodyshootsandstragglygrowth,thenfeedtheplants and theywill soon freshenup.Rosemary shouldbepruned after itsflowers fadeand I like touse someof thecuttingson the log fire to scent thehousewhile the younger shoots are saved tomake rosemary syrup, (see page213)whichIuseinmanycakesandpuddings.

This is also a good time to divide herbs like sorrel, lemon balm, lovage andmarjoram. I lift anddividemychives every three to fouryears.Mostof themgrowaroundthesmallpondinthemiddleoftheherbgarden,buttheyalsoedgeabedinanotherarea,sothosecanbeusedforcuttingwhenthepondcircleofchivesarelefttoflower.

Thehardycommonsage,purple,goldenandwhitesagesgrowoutsideallyearround.Butthehalf-hardytricolour,pineapple,tangerineandblackcurrantsagesaregrowninpotsbecausetheyhavetoover-winterinside.Justbeforebringingthem out into the garden after the danger of frosts has past, I shape and feedthem,aswellassplittingplantswhennecessary.

Herb lovers look forward to late springwhen the garden is full of fresh, newluscious leaves and everything looks and tastes wonderful. When Rick SteinwantedtofilmmyherbgardenandcookingforhisBBCshowFoodHeroes,Iasked him to come at this perfect time,when gardenwas full of edible herbsthrivinginthelatespringsunshine.

[SPRINGACTIONLIST]

+Divideherbslikelemonbalm,sorrel,lovageandchiveswhennecessary.+Takerootcuttingsofsweetcicely,tarragon,mintandbergamot.+Layerold,woodyherbslikesageandthymeundergroundtoproducenewplants.

+Cutbackbayandrosemary;shapeotherevergreenherbs.+Prickoutherbseedlings,potonandeventuallyhardenoff.

BASILBasil is often called thekingofherbs, basedon theGreekword formonarch.TheFrenchalsorefer to itasherberoyale.Andmostkeencookswouldagreethatitisaleaderamongstherbsforitsfragrance,charismaandaddictivetaste.Itis synonymouswith visions of sun-bakedMediterranean landscapes, but is infactusedinrecipesfromaroundtheworld.It isfamouslyeateninFrancewithtomatoesandmozzarella,mixedwithParmesancheeseandpinenuts inItalianpesto,andusedasavitalelementinThaicooking.

HISTORY

This importantherboriginated in India,where it is stillgrownaround templesandisheldsacredtotheHindugods,VishnuandKrishna.Basilwasputintothehandsof thedead tohopefullyguarantee a safe journey to the afterlife. In thesameway, in Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome, it was thought to open thegatesofheaven.Greeksalsomarkedtheendoftheyearbyofferingbasiltothe

naiads,thespiritsofthesprings,toaskforaconstantsupplyofnaturalwaterintheyearahead.

COOKING

I grow at least three types of basil to cover the variety of tastes needed forrecipes from all over the world. The most important, the classic sweet basil,Sweet Genovase, has large, bright green, strongly aromatic leaves and is thevarietymost often sold in greengrocers and supermarkets. I also grow purplebasil for its looks and taste, but the purple basils have less strongly flavouredleaves than the greenvarieties.Thai basil, includingHolyBasil andQueenofSiam, is grown for its very different aniseed scent and flavour. I can alsorecommend ginger basil, cinnamon basil, anise basil, Greek basil and lemonbasilforcooking.

There isnopestoaswonderfulas theone Imakewithmyhome-grownsweetbasil,qualityoliveoil,Parmesan,pecorinoandpinenuts(seepage35).Ialwayshaveaplantinapotbythecooker,buyingitinthewintermonthswhenitistoocoldtogrowbasileasilyathome.Itisusedinmanyoftherecipesinthisbook.It has a fabulous pungency, but if you cook it, the flavour soon fades away.Thereismuchdebateaboutwhetheryoushouldavoidcuttingbasilwithaknife.Iwas taught to tear it intopiecesbeforeadding it toadishaftercooking.Butrecenttestsshowthatthetasteandthescentoftheleavesisthesame,choppedortorn.

Add basil leaves to salads, aubergine/eggplant dishes, courgettes/zucchini andpeppers,aswellastomatoes,ofcourse.Youcanuseitwithlemontostufffish,tossitintopastawithfetacheese,oraddoneoftheThaibasilstospicysoups,cold noodle salads and Thai curries. Introduce the chopped or torn leaves todishestowardstheendofcooking.Insomeareas,Thaibasilscanonlybeboughtinoriental supermarkets so it is agood idea togrowyourown. Ideally, try topickyourbasil leaves fordinnerat theendof thedaywhen the flavourof theleavesismoreintense.

GROWING

Istart tosowbasilseedsinsideinlatewinter,usingseedcompost intraysandencouraging germination by using a heated propagator. The seedlings appear

afteraboutaweek,andsoonafterthatthefirsttrueleavesappear.ThenIplanttwoor threeseedlings intoeachpotandmove themoutof thepropagatorandontothegreenhouseshelves.Butyoucanbesuccessfulgrowingbasilwithoutagreenhouse.Lotsofpeoplesowbasilinpotsontheirwindowsills.

Itisimportanttowatertheplantsinthemorningorthehottestpartoftheday,sotheyarenotsittinginwetcompostatnightwhentemperaturesarelower.Iftheyarewetandcoldtheycansuccumbtodisease.

Basilisverysensitivetocoldweather,sowaituntillatespringbeforeplantingitoutsideinawarm,shelteredspot.Whenit isgrowingstronglyyoucanharvestthe basil. Pinch out the main stem to encourage the growth of side shoots.Pinching out the tips will also prevent flowering, which is important becausesomeflavourislostiftheplantrunstoseed.Feedweeklywithaliquidfertilizer.Basilseedscanalsobesowndirectlyintothegardeninearlysummer.

COURGETTE,HERBANDGARLICBRUSCHETTAThecombinationofchoppedcourgette/zucchini,herbsandgarliccookedinagood-qualityoliveoilisirresistibletome.YoucanalsoeatthisbruschettatoppingwithpastaandParmesancheeseinsteadofthebread.Basilisimportantinthisrecipe,butyoucanaddanyotherfavouriteherbsthatarenottoodominantintaste.Keepthenumberdowntothreeortheflavourswillcompetetoomuch.Ifyoudon’tusetheham,itmakesaperfectvegetarianlunch.Preparation:10minsCooking:12minsServes4

3tbspoliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling1kg/2lb4ozsmall,firmcourgettes/zucchini,sliced2garliccloves,finelychopped

3tbspchoppedbasilleaves

½tbspchoppedmintleaves2tbspchoppedoreganoleaves

4slicesofsourdoughbread

8slicesofSerranoorParmaham/prosciuttogratedzestof½lemon(optional)seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperHeattheoilinafryingpanoveraveryhighheatandfrythecourgettes/zucchiniforabout5minutesuntiltheystarttobrown.Addthegarlicandfryfor2minutesuntilsoftened.Addthechoppedherbsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

herbsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

Grill/broil the bread on both sides, then drizzle with oil. Spoon thecourgette/zucchini and herb mixture onto the bread, then roll the ham andarrangeattractivelyontop.Sprinklewiththelemonzest,ifusing.

BASILANDTOMATOSORBETThisisperfectforservingasarefreshingappetizerbeforethemaincourse.

Preparation:10mins,plusfreezingServes4

400g/14ozripetastytomatoesasmallhandfulofbasil,plusextraleavestodecorate1tspsugar(optional)

2eggwhites

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperToremovetheskinfromthetomatoes,cutacrossintheskinofeachtomatoatthebasewithasharpknife,thenputtheminaheatproofbowlandcoverwithboilingwater.Leavetostandfor2–3minutes,oruntiltheskinssplit,thendrain,dipincoldwateranddrainagain.Peeloffanddiscardtheskins,deseedthetomatoesandchoptheflesh.

Puréethetomatoeswiththebasil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Usethesugaronly if the purée does not taste sweet enough. Freeze the mixture until it isalmostfrozen,whichwilltakeabout30minutesinanicecreammachineor1–2hoursinthefreezer.

Whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff,thenfoldthemintothetomatoandbasilmixtureand return to the freezeruntil completely frozen.Servea sphereof the sorbet,decoratedwithwholebasilleaves,onasmallwhitedishforeachperson.

CHICKENBREASTSSTUFFEDWITHMOZZARELLAANDBASILThisdeliciousdish takesonly15minutes toprepare,and it canallbedone inadvancetomakedinnereasier.YouneedsomeClassicPestomadewithbasilonhand,frommyrecipeonpage35.

Preparation:15minsCooking:20minsServes4

125g/4½ozmozzarellacheese,sliced4skinlesschickenbreasts

24basilleaves

4slicesofParmaham/prosciutto24smallvinetomatoes

2tbspoliveoil

450g/1lbsmallnewpotatoes3tbspClassicPestomadewithbasil(seepage35)

2tbspbalsamicglaze

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPreheattheovento190°C/375°F/Gas5andgreaseabakingsheet.

Season the mozzarella with salt and pepper. Make a small pocket in eachchicken breast and fill each one with a quarter of themozzarella and 6 basilleaves.Wrapeachchickenbreast inasliceofParmaham,putonthepreparedbakingsheetandaddthevinetomatoes.Drizzlebothtomatoesandchickenwiththeoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastfor20minutesuntilthechickeniscookedthrough.

Meanwhile, boil the potatoes for about 15 minutes, depending on size, untilcookedthrough.Drain,thentosswiththebasilpesto.

Divide the chicken, pesto potatoes and tomatoes among serving plates anddrizzlethetomatoeswiththebalsamicglaze.

SMOKEDSALMONPASTAWITHSAUCEVIÈRGETherefreshingsauceisoneofmyfavouritesandIoftenservethisdishasafirstcourseforaspecialoccasion.Ialsoliketoservescallopsonapoolofthissauce,ormeatyfishliketunaorredmullet,whichareimprovedbythecombinationofthe herbs and the lemony sharpness. Use the black-and-cream-striped bow-shapedpastaforthisrecipe,ifyoucanfindit.Itisknownasfarfallezebraandismadeblackbytheadditionofsquidink.IlastservedthistomyAmericangod-daughter and her familywho call it “bow-tie pasta”.Our grandchildren call it“butterflypasta”,littleknowingthatfarfalleistheItalianwordforbutterfly.


2ripetomatoes

75ml/2½floz/5tbspoliveoil1shallot,finelychopped

3tbsplemonjuice

12corianderseeds,crushed400g/14oz/6cupsfarfallepasta16largebasilleaves,finelychopped,plusextraleavestoserve16largecoriander/cilantroleaves,finelychopped

1tspbalsamicvinegar

300g/10½ozsmokedsalmon,cutintostripsseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperWithasharpknife,cutacrossintheskinofeachtomatoatthebase,thenputtheminaheatproofbowlandcoverwithboilingwater.Leavetostandfor2–3minutes,oruntiltheskinssplit,thendrain,dipincoldwateranddrainagain.Peeloffanddiscardtheskins,deseedthetomatoesandfinelychoptheflesh.

Heat1tablespoonoftheoilinafryingpanandfrytheshallotgentlyforabout

10minutesuntil softened.Add therestof theoil, the lemon juiceandcrushedcorianderseedsandheatgently.Thenaddthetomatoesandheatthrough.

Meanwhile, cook the farfallepasta inboiling, saltedwater for5–6minutes,oruntilaldente.

Justbeforeserving,seasonthetomatomixturewithsaltandpepperandaddtheherbs, then the balsamic vinegar. Cover and leave to restwhile you drain thepastaandfold in thestripsofsmokedsalmon.Arrangeonservingplates,pourthesauceoverthetopandsprinklewithafewextrabasilleaves.

CHIVESI lovetoseesnowdropsappearing, thefirstflowersofwinter.Andinjustthesameway,IcelebratewhenIrealizethatbravechivesarepushing throughthesoil, thefirst freshherbs tobeready for picking. These hardy perennials from the onionfamilyareeasy togrowandessential forcooking.Nogardenshouldbewithout them.There are four typesworthgrowing:the common Allium schoenoprasum with its pinky-purpleglobular flowers and cylindrical leaves; a white-floweredrelative; chiveswith finer leaves; and the taller, bolder garlicchives,alsoknownasChinesechives,which,unliketheothers,haveflat,solidleaves.

HISTORYChivesareoneofthemostancientofherbs,withrecordsoftheirusegoingbackover5000years.TheRomansbelievedthateatingthisherbcouldincreasebloodpressureandRomaniangypsiesusedchivesaspartoftheirfortune-tellingritual.Bunchesofchiveswerealsohungaroundhouses towardoffbothdiseaseandevil.

Chives have been cultivated in Europe since the Middle Ages, playing animportant part in many recipes. Their fame spread after reports from MarcoPolo,asEuropeanstookhisadviceandstartedusingthemfromthe16thcentury.They are an essential part of the famous French blend of herbs, fines herbes,combinedwithparsleyandtarragonorchervil.

COOKING

Snipchiveswithscissors toaddamildonion-scentedcarpetofgreen tosoupsandsalads.Theyarewonderfulinanomelette(seepage32),butdopopinsomechive flowersorbuds to themixwhenyouhave themin thegarden.Alsousetheminsmokedfishpâtés,potatosaladsandbeetroot/beetdishes.Ioftenmakeaherb tart with chives and cream cheese. Chive butter can be stored in therefrigeratororfreezer.Whilethesmallerchivesaresoftherbs,whichneedtobeadded towards the end of cooking or sprinkled over the final dish, Chinesechives are much tougher. They can be used in dishes at an earlier stage ofcookingandcanalsobestir-fried.

GROWING

Chinese chives grow to 40cm/16in high and have a sweet garlic flavour andlargewhite flowersallsummer,whichalso lookgood in thewinterwhen theyhavedriedonthestem.Becausetheyaresoshowy,Igrowtheminsixclumpsaround the roses in themiddle ofmy herb beds. The clumps of garlic chivesalternate with six clumps of variegated lemon balm, which together make anattractivecirclebecausethestrappyleavesofthechivescontrastsowellwiththecolourful,roundedlemonbalmleaves.

Youcangrowchivesfromseedinlatespring,butIusuallyjustsplittheclumpstoincreasetheirnumbers.Ifyouwanttogrowchivesinclumps,plantaboutsixbulbstogetherroughly15cm/6inawayfromthenextclump.Igrowmostofmine

asedgingplantsaroundmyherbbeds,plantingthemincloserowsofonebulbwidth,about10cm/4infromtheedgeofthebed.Whentheyarerefreshedwithcompostandwater,theplantssoonthickenup.

Chiveswillgrowalmostanywhere,buttheylikesunandrichsoilandtheleavescangoyellowiftheyarenothappy.Whenyougrowtheminpotsorawindowboxyouwillneedtogivethemaliquidfeedandkeepthemwellwatered.Manygardenersplantthemwiththeirvegetablesandrosesbecausetheyarethoughttoreduce diseases like black spot. Chives thrive by being cut back to 2.5cm/1infromthegroundaboutfourtimesayeartoencouragefresh,greengrowth.Theyshouldalwaysbecutbackafterflowering.

Whenwinterisontheway,Iusuallydigupaclumptogrowinthegreenhouse,whichIalsodowithtarragonandsomemints,astheseherbsdisappearunderthegroundincoldweather.Ialsosnipthefreshchiveleavesfinelyandkeeptheminthe freezer in an ice-cube tray with water. Another way to enjoy the taste ofchivesinthewinteristomakewhitewinevinegarflavouredwiththeleavesandbuds(seepage147).Preservedorfreshlypicked,chiveshaveanessentialroleinmykitchen.

BORSCHTWITHSOURCREAMANDCHIVESBeetroot/beet is a big favourite inmy household andwe cook this wonderfulvegetableinmanyways.Borschtisalwayswelcome,particularlywhenIscatteritwithsnippedchivesandchiveflowersifitisthetimeofyearwhentheflowersareattheirbest.


1largeonion,chopped

1tbspoliveoil

1garlicclove,finelychopped2cookedbeetroots/beets,peeledandgrated800ml/28floz/3⅓cupschickenstock125ml/4floz/½cupsourcream1smallhandfulofchives,finelysnipped4pinkchiveflowers(optional)seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFrytheonionintheoilinalargesaucepanforabout10minutesuntilsoftened.Addthegarlicandcontinuetofryforafewminutes.Addthegratedbeetroots/beetsandstockandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Simmergentlyforabout10minutesuntilthestockiscolouredandwellflavouredwiththebeetroot/beet.Becarefulnottoovercook.

Blendthesoup, thenrubthroughasieve/fine-meshstrainer.Servewithaswirlof sour cream in eachbowl, the snipped chives scatteredon the surface and achiveflowerinthemiddleofthesourcream,ifusing.

CHIVEFLOWEROMELETTEThepink-purple tufted flowersof the chiveplant tastedelicatelyofonion andmake food look beautiful too. You can also use this recipe tomake a classicomelette fines herbes, adding tarragon and parsley to the eggs alongwith thechives,andomittingthechiveflowers.


8eggs4tbspmilk1tbspfinelysnippedchives1tbspbutter

16chiveflowers

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperBeattogethertheeggsandmilk,addthechivesandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

Meltthebutterinalargefryingpanuntilfoaming,pourintheomelettemixtureand cook for about 5 minutes until it is set but still moist. Scatter the chiveflowersoverthetop,thenflipitoverandcookforafurther1minute,keepingitsoftandmoist.

Divide theomelette intofour, flippingthepiecesbackoverso that theflowersareonthetop.Slideontowarmplatestoserve.

CODWITHASOYANDCHIVEMARINADEThisrecipeisoneofmyfavouritesandIhavebeenservingitfordecades.Thecombinedflavourofsesameoilandsoysauceisperfectwithchives,gingerandspringonions/scallions.Thesaucehasarefreshingtaste,whichalsoworkswellwithchicken.

Preparation:15mins,plusmarinatingCooking:15minsServes4

4codfillets,orfilletsofanothermeatyfishsuchashalibut2tbspsesameoil3tbspsoysauce4tbspsnippedchives

2bayleaves

6springonions/scallions,chopped1largegarlicclove,finelysliced2.5cm/1incubeofrootginger,finelyslicedorgratedseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperRubthecodoneachsidewithhalfthesesameoil,thenputinanon-metallicbowl.Tosswithhalfthesoysauce,halfthechivesandthebayleaves,thencoverandleavetomarinateintherefrigeratorforatleast2hours.

Preheat thegrill/broiler tohigh.Heat the remainingsesameoil ina fryingpanandfryhalf thespringonions/scallionswith thegarlicandgingerforabout10minutesuntilsoftened.Addpepper,thentastetocheckwhethersaltisneeded–itmaynotbebecausethesoyissalty.Meanwhile,grill/broilthefilletsforabout10–15minutesuntilthefishflakeseasilywhentestedwithafork.

Spoon themarinade over the top of the fish, then sprinklewith the remainingspring onions/scallions and chives to serve, with the remaining soy saucealongside.

PESTOTRIANGLESMixingpestowithcreamcheesemakesaperfectfillingforthesegoldenpastrytriangles.Theyaremyfavouritecanapés,butformore ideas,seepages224–5.Anysparesheetsofpastryinthepacket,leftoverfromtherecipe,couldbeusedtomakeanappleorcherrystrudel.

Preparation:30minsCooking:10minsMakes20

oliveoil,forbrushingandgreasing1recipequantityStrongHerbPestomadewithrocket/arugula,lovageorsage(seepage35)240g/8oz/1cupcreamcheese4sheetsoffilo/phyllopastryfreshlygratedParmesancheese,forsprinklingPreheattheovento220°C/425°F/Gas7andgreasealargebakingsheetwithoil.Takethepastryoutoftherefrigeratorabout20minutesbeforeyouwanttouseit.

Inasmallbowl,combinethepestoandcreamcheese.

Cut thefilosheets lengthwaysinto5strips,each5×34cm/2×13½in.Placeaheapedteaspoonfulofthefillinginthecornerofthefirstfilostrip,coveringtheremainingpastrystripswithadampdishtoweltopreventthemfromdryingout.Foldthecornerofthepastryoverthefillingtomakeatriangle.Keepfoldingthecorner, oneway then the other, until you are almost at the top.Brush the topwithalittleoil,thenfoldintoatriangle.Repeatwiththeremainingstrips,thenplacethepastrytrianglesonthepreparedbakingsheet.

Brushthetopofeachtrianglewitha littleoliveoil,andsprinklea littlegratedParmesan over each one. Cook in the preheated oven for 7–10 minutes untilgoldenbrownandcookedthrough.

[WHYNOTTRY...]

+Stirringadollopofpestothroughminestronesoup+ToppingacookedpuffpastrybasewithroastedMediterraneanvegetablesanddrizzlingwithpestoforaquicksummerytart+Addingpestotoasimpletomatosaucetoservewithmeatballs,forinstantflavour+Stirringpestothroughfreshlysteamednewpotatoes+Adding2–3teaspoonsofpestotoabasicrisottorecipe(seepage180)

FENNELFennel is a tall and handsome perennial which looks elegantwithotherherbsoratthebackofamixedflowerborder.Therearegreenandbronzevarieties,butthegreenherbtastesslightlybetter.Ithasasweetlyfragrantliquoriceflavour,withahintofcamphor.Theseedsareevenstronger than the leaves,butareessential to many recipes. Fennel now grows wild in manypartsof theworld. I never tireof seeing itwhen I holiday inother countries, swaying on its tall stems topped with all itscheerfulyellowflowers.

HISTORYFennel is native to theMediterranean andwas used by theAncientGreeks inherbal medicines for at least 20 different medical conditions. The Romans

preferred it in their food, eating leaves, roots and seeds. Roman soldiers alsobelieved that tasty fennel helped maintain their health and strength, keepingthem fit forbattle.Back at thevillas, theirwomenbelieved itwas an appetitesuppressant andused it in their slimming regimes. In theMiddleAges, fennelhadalessromanticuse.Itsstrongflavourwasusedtodisguisethetasteoffoodthatwasnotasfreshasitshouldbe.

COOKING

Itisraretoseefennelfrondsonsaleinfoodshops,despitethefactthatfennelisan important ingredient in fish dishes andmany other recipes. I often use thestalksandleavestostuffawholefishbeforebaking,beforeusingfinelychoppedfennelleavesinfishstockorasaucetogowiththebakedfish.Icutthestalksofmy fennel to the ground in early winter, but soon have small leaves pokingthroughthegroundinthecoldestmonthswhendillwillnotgrow.SoIoftenusefennelasareasonablesubstituteindillrecipes.

Fennelisparticularlygoodwithgameyfishlikeredmullet(seepage43)andinSicily it is an essential in their strong-tasting sardine recipes. One favouriterecipeistostuffthefishwithfennel,currantsandpinenuts.InBritainweseemto prefer a gooseberry and fennel sauce to serve with mackerel. I also usechopped fennelwith rootvegetables, includingnewpotatoesorbeetroot/ beet,withshellfish,smokedeel,eggs,tomatoesandtoaddananiseedflavourtosourcream or mayonnaise. The seeds are more spicy than the leaves and areimportantinthekitchenwithrichfoodslikeduck,porkandlamb.

Theseedscanberubbedintothemeatbeforecooking,orgroundtoaddtospicemixesusedforsoups,breadorsaladdressings.

Attheendofthesummer,Ichopupfennelleavesfinelytoaddtoicecubetrayswithwater and freeze.And you can dry the fennel stems to use in thewinterwitholiveoil to flavourbaked fish.Fennelherb isquitedifferent to thewhitebulbofFlorence fennel.But youwill see frommy recipeonpage41 that theherbandtherootvegetablecanbecombinedsuccessfully.

TravellinginMorocco,Idiscoveredpeoplesittingonthepavementsurroundedbydriedumbelsoffennel,whichtheysellforadoublepurpose.Thestalksareused as toothpicks and then the seeds are chewed as a breathfreshener. I nowserve themafterdinnerforanyone interested inhistoricherbalhygiene. Ihave

since found that fennel is used to flavour natural toothpastes and the roastedseeds are used in mukhwas – an after-meal digestive and breathfreshener inPakistanandIndia.

GROWING

Grow fennel from seed in early spring,well away from dill because they cancross-pollinate.Itlikesasunnyspotinwell-drainedsoil,butwillbehappyinalarge pot. As with all herbs, you will get more leafy growth if you preventfloweringuntil later in thesummer.Then leavesomeflowerson theplantandtheseedswillsoonstarttoform.Youcancollectafewseedstotastewhentheyareyoung,greenandjuicy.Butleavemostofthemtoturnpalebrownandthendrythembyhangingthemupsidedown,looselyenclosedinapaperbag.Whentheyaretotallydry,storetheminanairtightjar.Althoughfennelisaperennialplant,itusuallyneedsreplacingeverythreetofouryears.

BAKEDFLORENCEFENNELWITHPARMESANANDFENNELBUTTERThis dish combines both types of fennel – the delicious Florence fennel bulb,andtheherbfennelleaves.FennelandParmesancheeseareagreatcombination,which I havebeenusing for years.Uncooked fennel bulbsgodry and start tobrownveryquickly,soblanchthemsoonafterbuyingorharvesting,andkeepintherefrigeratoruntilyouwanttomakethisdish.


2–3Florencefennelbulbs,dependingonsize30g/1oz/2tbspbutter

4tbspfreshlygratedParmesancheese

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFENNELBUTTER175g/6oz/¾cupbutter,softened2tbsplemonjuice

3tbspchoppedherbfennelleaves

1smallgarlicclove,crushedPreheattheovento190°C/375°F/Gas5.Reserveandchopafewofthefennelfrondsforthefennelbutter.Slicethefennelbulb,thenblanchitinboilingwaterfor2minutes–itmustnotbecomesoft.Drainwell,thentossitinthebutter.Putinanovenproofdish,scatterwiththeParmesanandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookintheovenforupto15minutesuntilthecheeseisturninggoldenbrown.

Meanwhile,makethefennelbutter.Inabowl,blendtogetheralltheingredients,including the reserved fennel fronds, and spoon onto a strip of bakingparchment.Usethepapertohelpyoushapetheherbbutterintoalongroll,thentwist thepaperat theends toseal.Chilluntilneeded, thensliceabouthalf thebutter intosmall rounds. (Store the leftoverbutter in the refrigeratoror freezeranduseonfishorcookedvegetables.)Servethebakedfenneltoppedwithslicesofthefennelbutter.

FENNEL,PERNODANDREDMULLETPARCELSFennel and fishmake a classic and classy combination, helped by the aniseedflavourofthePernod.Nothingcouldbeeasierthanthisrecipe,inwhichafoilorbakingparchmentparcelholdsinallthewonderfulflavoursandcookingjuices.Dotakecarewhenopeningtheparcelsastheywilltrapalotofhotsteaminside.


2Florencefennelbulbs

2tbspchoppedherbfennelleaves

1glassofdrywhitewine,about180ml/6floz/¾cup2tbspPernod

1tbspbutter

4filletsofredmullet,seabassoranotherfavouritefishseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPreheattheovento190°C/375°F/Gas5.Reserveandchopafewofthefennelfronds.Thinlyslicethefennelbulb.

Prepare four 30cm/12in squares of double-thickness baking parchment orkitchen foil. Divide the ingredients equally among the parchment squares,placingthefishfilletsontop.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Foldthefoilinhalfandtwisttheedgestogethertoseal,keepingsomeairinside.Bakeforabout15minutesuntilthefishflakeseasilywhentestedwithafork.

Serveinthebakingparchmentparcelsor,ifyouprefer,youcanopentheparcelsandarrangethefish,fennelandsauceonservingplates.

LEMONVERBENALemon verbena – with its light green, elongated leaves andbeautiful palemauve flowers – looks elegantly ornamental inthe large potwhere it grows inmy herb garden.Butwhen itcomes to tasting it, theherb’spersonality changes, because itpacksapowerfulpunchofboth lemon juice andzest. I thinkthisisthemostimportantofalllemon-flavouredplants,soIamalways surprised that few people use it in the kitchen. It israrelyfoundonsaleasacutherb,soIstronglyrecommendthatyougrowityourself.

HISTORYTheSpanishbroughtlemonverbenafromitsnativeSouthAmericatoEuropeinthe17thcentury,whereitwasfirstusedforitsscentedoil.Ittookalongtimetobecomeknownasaculinaryherb,butoncetasted,itbecomesmemorableforits

intense citrus flavour. This comesmainly from the compound citral, which isalso present in lemongrass.Only lastweek Iwas preparingThai hot and sourprawnsoupfromarecipewhichlistedlemongrass.Lemonverbenawasaperfectsubstitute.

COOKING

Make lemon verbena syrup (see page 130) to add to fruit or cakes, or try icecreamorsorbet(seepages110–11),tea(seepage46),applejelly(seepage166),stuffings and verbena sugar (see page 132). Bruise the leaves to add lemonflavourtodrinks,orthreadontoskewerswhenyouarecookingfishormeatonthebarbecue.Forwinteruse, youcan chop the leaves finely and freeze in icecubetrays,ordrytheleavesbeforestoringinanairtightcontainerforuptothreeyears.

GROWING

Igrowlemonverbenainapotandbringitinsidebeforethefirstfrosts.Butyoucan grow it outside in a well-drained, sunny and sheltered spot, like by asouthfacingwall.Itbenefitsfromamulchandfleeceforextraprotectioninthecold months. This herb loses its leaves in winter, so cut it back before thishappensandyouwillberewardedwithlotsofnewgrowthinlatespring.Itcanbegrownfromseed,buttakingcuttingsisamoresuccessfulwayofproducingnew plants, which should be kept in pots for at least two years. Use liquidfertilizerduringthefloweringperiod.

LEMONVERBENAANDAPRICOTCLAFOUTISApricotsareoneofmyfavouritefruitsandIhavebeenmeaningtoplantoneonasunnybarnwallforsometime.ButfornowIhavetobuythemandIalwaystrytofindripefruitwhichisfullofflavour.Thezingoflemonverbenaleaveslifts thisdessert,making itveryspecial indeed.Clafoutis isa favouritedessertfromcentralFrance,whichisalsosuccessfulwithplumsorcherries.

Preparation:25minsCooking:30minsServes4–6

30g/1oz/2tbspbutter,forgreasing500g/1lb2ozripeapricots3tbspveryfinelychoppedlemonverbenaleaves,plusasprigtodecorate85g/3oz/scant½cupcaster/superfinesugar240ml/8floz/1cupsingle/lightcream

4eggs

60g/2¼oz/½cupplain/all-purposeflour1tbspicing/confectioners’sugar,siftedPreheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4andgenerouslybutteralargegratindish.Cuttheapricotsinhalfandremovethepits.Arrange,cut-sidedown,inthedishandsprinklethechoppedlemonverbenaleavesoverthetop.

Blendthesugar,cream,eggsandflouruntilsmooth,thenpourthemixtureoverthe fruit and bake for 30 minutes until the clafoutis is puffed up and lightlybrowned.Servewarm,butnothot,sprinkledwithicing/confectioners’sugaranddecoratedwithasprigoflemonverbena.

HERBTEASMygardening trainee,Alan, toldmerecentlyabout the tisanetrolley used in the restaurant where he worked, with its vastselection of fresh and dried herb teas. This struck me as anexcellentideabecausemoreandmorepeoplearegettingfussyabout the types of coffee and more traditional teas that theywill swallow. But however fussymy visitors are, they rarelyturndownherbtea.

Ialwaysmaketeawithfreshherbs,eitherstraightintoachinacupormug,inaglass herb tea pot or tisanière,with the central container for the herb, or in acafetière.Fleshy-leavedherbsshouldbewashedandtornbeforehandfulsareputin the base of the coffee maker. Then boil the water and leave for a minutebeforepouring.Allowtoinfuseforseveralminutes,thenpressdowntheplungerand pour the tea.Never use boilingwater because it will scald the herbs anddamagetheflavour.

Idonotaddsugar,butmanypeople think itenhances theflavour. I rememberdrinkingmintteaforthefirsttimeinMorroccoandthinkingtheverysweetteatastedhorriblyliketheunsubtlechewinggumIusedtobuyasachild.Butthereis littlemore refreshing thanaherb tea, sweetornot, servedmid-morning, forafternoontea,orafterameal.Itiseasy,tastyandcaffeine-free–andyouknowthatnochemicalshavebeenusedinprocessing.

It is important tobegenerouswith thequantityof softherbsused.Butdonotfollowtherulewithhardherbslikerosemary.Thismakesagoodwintertea,butneverputmorethanonesmallsprigpercupasitissostrong.WithmanyotherherbsIwouldaverage3sprigspercup,andabout12inatisanière.Youcancooland chill herb tea and serve with ice on a hot day, or spiced with cloves,cinnamonandorangepeelinthewinter.

Bergamothascitrusmintyleaves,whicharegoodservedwithalemonslice.

Camomile tea is said to helpwith insomnia.Youneed to grow the floweringtypeof thisherbfor teamaking.Waituntil thewhitepetalsbegintofoldbackfrom theyellowmiddles.Hangbunchesupsidedownuntil theherb isdryandbrittle.Thenmaketheteabysteeping1tspoftheflowersin200ml/7floz/¾cupofboiledwater.Infusefor5minutes,strainandsip.

Lemonbalmteaisoneofmyfavourites.Itisrefreshinghotoriced.IhavesomuchofthisherbinmygardenthatIneverrunout.

Lemon verbena makes perfect, refreshing tea. Many people tell me it helpsthemtosleep.

Mintteacanbemadewithachoiceofmints.IlikeBowles’smint,butalsouseMoroccan,pineapple,chocolateandgingermint.

Sage leavesmakeanotherstrongtea.It isoneofthefewthatI thinkimproveswithsugarandlemon.

Thymeteaissaidtobegoodforhangovers,butitisstrong,sousethetipsofthebranchessparingly.

LOVAGELovage ismyfavouriteherb.There is somethingveryspecialabout its spicy, celery flavour and I use it for various dishesalmosteveryday.Itisalsoessentialinthehotsummermonthsforshadingmygreenhouse.Asitgrowstoover2m/6fttallwithlarge, lush, deeply divided leaves, I have planted it every60cm/24in along the south side of my greenhouse so that ithelps to keep things cool. Some people call it love parsley,although it looks nothing like any of the parsleys and tastesverydifferent. It is in theUmbelliferae family andaswell asthe tall version, Levisticum officinale, which has yellowflowersandbrownseedheads,thereisashorterlovagecalledLevisticumscoticum,withwhiteflowersandamilderflavour.It isaMediterraneanherbwhichloves thesunand,unusuallyformanyherbs, it enjoys rich soil. So do compost itwhen itdiesdownlateintheyear.

HISTORYTheAncientGreeksweresaidtouselovageextensivelyandtheRomanslikedtogrowitfortheseeds,whichtheychewedtohelpdigestion.PeoplewhotravelledintheMiddleAgeswereknowntousetheleavesasodoureaters intheirshoesandeventodaytheleavesareknownfortheirdeodorizingandantisepticeffects.Lovage was planted in medieval monasteries and became a popular, easy togrowherbinEuropeforbothitsflavourandreputationasanaphrodisiac.Todayitislargelyunknownandhardtobuyasacutherbforcooking.Butoncepeoplegrowtheirownplants,theyusuallybecomeaddicted,likeme,toitsspicy,celeryflavourwithahintofbothlemonandorange.

COOKING

Ipick the leavesassoonas theypush through theground inearlyspring.Thefresh,babyleavesarewonderfulinsalads.Astheflavourisgoodwithcarrots,Iuse the leaves in carrot salads and I cook them alongwith the vegetable, too.Carrot and lovage soup is excellent. In fact, the leaves improve many heartysoups,butthebestrecipeofallismysimpleLovageSoupmadewithpotatoes(seepage50),which isa family favourite. I cooked it forRickSteinwhenhevisitedmyherbgardenforhisFoodHeroesBBCTVseries.

Thecombinationofcourgette/zucchiniand lovagealsomakesacreamy,greensoupwithanexcellentandunusualflavour.Whencourgette/zucchiniplantsarerunningriot, justsoftensomechoppedonionandgarlicandaddanyoversizedcourgettes/zucchini cut into small pieces, removing the seeds but keeping theskin.Simmerthismixtureinsomegood-qualitystockwithahandfuloflovageleaves,then,oncetheingredientshavesoftened,blendthesoupuntilsmooth.Ioftenmakeandfreezelovagesoups,alongwithlovagepuréeforsauces,andagutsylovagepesto(seepage35).Lovagecanbeusedandcookedlikespinach,itmakesamemorablesaucewithchickenorfishanditcombineswellwithcheesein a soufflé. But my favourite use of lovage is with guinea fowl, a deliciousrecipeyouwillfindonpage52.

Ialsostoretheseedstouseinthekitchen.Lovageseedsareknownasajwain,andhaveawonderfulthymeyflavour.OnenewrecipeIhavejusttriedistorubduckbreastswithlovageseeds,groundcuminandchoppedchilli,thengrill/broilthemandservewithasaucemadefromtheflavouredjuices,good-qualitystockandredwine.Theseedsarealsogoodinbiscuits,bread,soupsandonriceand

salads.

GROWING

Theleavesstaygreenandfreshfromearlyspringthroughtosummer,whenfirsttheystarttotastebitterandthentheygopaleandlosetheirflavour.Thisisthetimetocuttheplantbacktoencouragefreshshoots,whichgivetheplantandmyrecipesanewleaseoflife.

Somelovagestemsshouldbe leftuncutso that theycanflowerandformseedheads.Unlike lovage seeds, the leaves do not dry successfully forwinter use.Oncetheseedshaveturnedbrown,theycanbecollectedandhungupsidedowntodryinsideapaperbag.Intheautumn,theseseedsshouldbeplantedoutinthegarden. The young plants will reach full size in three to five years. They arehappy growing in a sunny south-facing spot, but will also cope with partialshade.

InearlyspringIalsosowtheseeds in trays insideandcoverwithvermiculite,usingapropagatortospeedupgermination.Itisalsopossibletodividetherootsinautumnorspringtoproducenewplants.Lookoutfornewbudsoneachrootsection.

LOVAGESOUPWITHCARROTPURÈELovagehasagreataffinitywithcarrotsandtheswirlofcarrotpuréefinishesoffthis soup beautifully.As an alternative, you can serve the soupwith croûtonstoppedwithStrongHerbPestomadewithlovage(seepage35).


1onion,chopped

2tbspoliveoil

1garlicclove,finelychopped4flourypotatoes,(about680g/1lboz)washedandchopped1largehandfuloflovageleaves,plusextratogarnish600ml/21floz/2½cupschickenorvegetablestockseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper4tbspcreamorplainyogurt,toserveCARROTPURÈE4carrots,peeledandchopped

3tbspvegetablestock

Frytheonionintheoilinalargesaucepanforabout10minutesuntilsoftened.Addthegarlicandcontinuetofryforafewminutes.Addthepotatoes, lovageleaves and stock and simmer for about 12minutes in a covered pan until thepotatoesaresoft.Finelychopthelovageleavesforthegarnish.

Meanwhile,coverthecarrotswithwaterinaseparatepan,bringtotheboilandcook for about 10minutes until soft. Drain andmash, then puréewith a fewtablespoonsofvegetablestockuntilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

Blendthelovagesoupuntilsmooth,thenseasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandpourintobowls.Swirlaspoonfulofcarrotpuréeandcreamintoeachbowlandsprinklewiththefinelychoppedlovageleavestoserve.

VENISONFILLETWITHLOVAGE,CELERY,WALNUTSANDAPPLEImakethisrecipeforfourpeopleusingvenisonfilletsteaks,butitcanalsobeaspecial-occasion dish for a larger number by roasting a haunch of venison. Itlooksveryattractiveon theplate surroundedby the lovage,walnutsanddicedapple. I often serve this with new potatoes and a green vegetable such asspinach.


200ml/7floz/scant1cupredwine1smallhandfuloflovage,leavespickedandchopped,plus16smallleavestoserve

1bayleaf

6blackpeppercorns,crushed2garliccloves,chopped4venisonfilletsteaks,about150g/5½ozeach100ml/3½floz/scant½cupgameorchickenstock1tbspredcurrantjelly,plusextratoserve

2tbspoliveoil

1smallapple,diced2celerystalks,diced55g/2oz/½cupwalnuts,chopped30g/1oz/2tbspbutter

10celeryleaves

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperTomakethemarinade,mixtogetherthewine,lovageleaves,bayleaf,peppercornsandgarlicinanon-metallicbowl.Addthevenisonsteaks,coverwithclingfilm/plasticwrapandleavetomarinateintherefrigeratorforupto2days,turningregularly.

Lift thevenisonoutof themarinade,patdryonpaper towelsand leave toone

side.Pourthemarinadethroughasieve/fine-meshstrainerintoasaucepan,addthestockandboilforseveralminutesuntilitstartstothicken.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddtheredcurrantjellyandsimmeruntilthejellyhasmelted,stirringoccasionally.Tasteandaddmorejellyiftheflavouristoosharp.

Preheatagriddlepan.Rubthevenisonsteakswiththeoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper and cook in the griddle pan for about 3 minutes on each side untilbrownedbutstillpink in themiddle.Wrap in foiland leave to rest forseveralminutes.

Meanwhile,cooktheapple,celeryandwalnutsinthebutterfor3minutes.Addthelovageandceleryleavesjustbeforeserving.

Unwrapthevenisonandputasteakinthemiddleofeachplate.Surroundwithacircleofthemixedcelery,apple,walnutsandleaves.Servewiththesauceandasmallbowlofredcurrantjelly.

GUINEAFOWLWITHLOVAGEANDLIMEThisrecipeisoneofmyfavouritesandIhavebeenservingitfordecades.Ithasamemorable flavour,which only lovage can provide, and it can bemade formostoftheyear,exceptwhenlovagedisappearsunderthegroundinmid-winter.You can serve thiswith potatoes, carrots cookedwith chopped lovage leaves,andextralime.

Preparation:15minsCooking:1hrServes4

1onion,chopped

1tbspoliveoil

1garlicclove,finelychopped150ml/5floz/scant⅔cupchickenstock

1guineafowl

1verylargehandfuloflovage,plusextratoserve

3tbspdryvermouth

gratedzestandjuiceof1lime120ml/4floz/½cupdouble/heavycreamseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppercarrotsandboiledormashedpotatoes,toservePreheattheovento190°C/375°F/Gas5.Frytheonionintheoilinalargeflameproofcasseroledishforabout10minutesuntilsoftened.Addthegarlicandcontinuetofryforafewminutes.Addthestockandthentheguineafowl,breast-sidedown.Laythelovageontopofthebird.Coverwiththelidandcookintheovenforabout25minutes.

Takeoutthecasseroledishandremovethelid.Liftoutanddiscardthelovage,whichwillnowbedryandcrispandhavereleaseditswonderfulflavourintotheliquid.Turntheguineafowloversothebreastsareexposed,seasonwithsaltandpepper, add the vermouth and lime zest and juice, then return to the oven,

uncovered, for another 20minutes or so until the bird is cooked through andbrowned.

Remove thebird from thedishand leave it to restwhileyou finish the sauce.Addthecreamtotheliquidinthedishandsimmeronthehob/stovetopoveramedium heat, stirring regularly, until the sauce has thickened. Sprinkle theguinea fowl with lovage leaves and serve with carrots and potatoes with thesauceontheside.

NECTARINESWITHAMARETTIANDALOVAGEDRIZZLEThisisoneofthesimplestrecipesever–sosimplethatIhavegivenpresentsofatinofgoodamarettibiscuitsandabagofnectarinesorpeachestofriends,withinstructionsforthisrecipeattached.JustasIlovegivingbunchesofherbsawaytoinspirepeopletoexperiment,Ialsocannotresistencouragingpeopletocook.


6just-ripenectarinesorpeaches,halvedandpitted

12bite-sizeamarettibiscuits

175g/6oz/1⅓cupsfreshraspberriesorredcurrants(optional)2tbspicing/confectioners’sugar,fordusting,ifusingtheredfruitalittlebutter,forgreasingLOVAGEDRIZZLE1smallhandfuloflovageleaves,pickedandchopped4tbspcaster/superfinesugarPreheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4andgreaseabakingdish.

Makethelovagedrizzlebyboilingthelovageandsugarin150ml/5floz/scant⅔ cupwater until youhave a syrup consistency.Blend themixture in a foodprocessor,thenstrainthroughacoffeefiltertogiveastrong,greensyrup.

Putthefruit,cut-sideup,intheprepareddish.Filleachhollowthathasbeenleftbyastonewithoneamarettibiscuit.Sprinklewiththelovagesyrupandcookfor10–15 minutes until the fruit is soft and the amaretti lightly browned. Servewarmorcold.

As this is a sweet dish, you can serve it with the sharp red fruit dustedwithicing/confectioners’ sugar. It is a good combination for taste and looks. Serveeachpersonthreenectarinehalvessurroundedonthedishwithredfruit,ifyouareusingthem.

MINTMint’s refreshing, clean taste is vital to many dishes, bothsavouryandsweet. It looksgoodbothon theplateand in thegarden. Butwhen you buy it as a bunch of leaves, it can bedisappointing,soalwaystrytogrowsomeinyourgardenorina pot kept in the kitchen if you have no outdoor space. Theleavescanbepickedfreshfromspringtoearlywinter,buttheyareattheirbestbeforeflowering.Whentheflowersdoappear,pick them too, because they have awonderfulmint taste andcanbeaddedtosaladsandsummerfruitrecipes.

HISTORYThe botanical name Mentha is thought to have come from Ancient Greekmythology.Hades, the godof theUnderworld, is said to have loved a nymph

calledMinthe,butwhenhisqueenbecamejealousofthisinfatuation,sheturnedthenymphintotheherbwehavetoday.

AlessromanticstoryisthattheGreeksworewreathsofmintontheirheadsafteranightofheavydrinking,believingthattheherbcouldreducethesymptomsofexpected hangovers. The Romans are thought to have brought mint plants toEurope,fromwheretheherbwastakentoBritainandthentoAmericawiththesettlers.

COOKING

Mintshouldalwaysbeusedasfreshaspossibleandcookedaslittleaspossible.Itgivesupitsflavourwonderfullyinhotliquidandmintteahastobeoneofthebestherbteasintheworld(seepage46).Youcanalsodryitat theendoftheseasontogiveasmoky,mintyflavour toGreekandTurkishrecipes, includingkebabsandstuffingsforpeppersandaubergines/eggplants.

Manypeopleaddastemoffreshmintwhentheyarecookingpeas,buttheherbaddsalottomostothervegetablesandpulses/legumes.Addingfinelychoppedmint,mixedintobutter, to theseason’sfirstnewpotatoes isoneof life’sgreatpleasures.TheherbplaysabigpartinmanyrecipesfromtheMiddleEast,likemyTabbouleh(seepage60),wherealotofbothmintandparsleyarechoppedfinelyandadded tocookedbulgarwheatwith tomatoes,cucumber,goodoliveoil and lemon juice. It is alsoperfectwith summer fruits like strawberriesandthe variegated mints look particularly good with desserts. They are weakergrowersthanplaingreenmints,butarehappyincontainers.

GROWING

Mintisatravellerinthegarden,alwayslookingforpasturesnew.Thebestwayto control plants is togrow them in largepots of rich, fertile soil, sunk in thegarden.Leavethepotsprotrudingslightlyabovesoilleveltotrytostoptherootsescaping.It isagoodideatodivideeachmintplantintheautumnbecausethelargecreepingroots,calledrunners,wraparoundtheoutsideoftherootballandrot in the wet when they touch the sides of the pot. To stop this happening,removethemintfromthepot,sawitinhalfandreplacewiththerunnersinthemiddleofthepot.

Afteracoupleofyears,despiteallthiseffort,manyofthemostrampantmintswill break away from their pots and cause havoc in the garden. One of myfavouritemints,Bowles’smint,whichisexcellentfortea,formintsauceandforflavouringdesserts,isthemostsuccessfulescapee.SoIwillnowonlygrowitincontainers. This is successful if you use rich compost, place the container inpartial shade, keep the soilmoist and apply a liquid feed regularly during thegrowingseason.

Mint can suffer frompowderymildew if it gets dry.Cut it back, fertilize andwater well to solve the problem. If you get mint rust, the only answer is todestroy the plant.Mint is unreliable from seed, but it is easy to produce newplantsfromrootcuttings.Pinchoutflowerbudstoencourageyoungsideshoots,which will extend the season and produce healthier plants. To encourage asecondbatchofhealthy leaves, cuteachplantbackafter flowering to5cm/2inaboveground.Youwillsoonhavenewgrowth.

If you only have space to grow a fewmints, Iwould suggest Bowles’smint,Moroccan mint for Middle Eastern recipes, spearmint, a variegated mint andbasilmint,whichisexcellentwithtomatoesandpasta.

COURGETTESWITHMINTANDFETAThisisaperfectexampleoftherestaurateurandfoodwriterAntonioCarluccio’sphilosophythattheminimumnumberofingredientsleadstothemaximumflavour.It’sapowerfulanddeliciouscombinationtoserveeitherasanappetizerorsidedish.Preparation:15minsCooking:20minsServes4

4courgettes/zucchini,thinlyslicedlengthwaysabout2tspcookingsalt

2tbspoliveoil,plusextratodrizzle

85g/3ozGreekfetacheese,crumbled1smallhandfulofmint,leavespickedandchoppedfreshlygroundblackpepperPutthecourgettes/zucchiniinacolanderandsprinklewithsalt,alargepinchtoeachcourgette/zucchinislice.Leavetodrainwhileyouheatagriddlepanorbarbecue.Rinsethecourgettes/zucchiniandpatdry.Brushthemonbothsideswithalittleoftheoil.Cookinbatchesonthegriddleforabout5minutesuntiltheystarttobecomelinedwithblack.Turnthemoverandcookontheothersideforafurther5minutesuntiltenderandlinedwithblack.Arrangeonaplate,sprinklewiththecrumbledfetaandmintleaves,thendrizzleoveralittleoliveoil.Seasonwithpeppertotaste.

MUSHROOMANDMINTPÂTÈThissimplepâtécanbeusedasacanapéinsmallpastrycasesorcanbeservedas an appetizerwith slicesof fresh crustybread. It is equally successfulmadewithlovageintheplaceofthemint.


3largefieldmushrooms2largegarliccloves

2tbspoliveoil

1sliceofwholemeal/wholegrainbread,madeintobreadcrumbs30–40mintleaves,plusextrasmallleavestosprinkle310g/11oz/heaped1⅓cupscreamcheeseseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPreheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4.Putthemushroomsandgarlicinabakingdishanddrizzleovertheoil.Bakefor20minutesuntilthemushroomsaretenderandthegarlicsoftened.Removefromtheovenandleavetocool.Oncecool,blendthemushroomsandgarlicwiththeremainingingredientstoasmoothpâté,seasoningwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Servesprinkledwithsmallmintleaves.

TABBOULEHThis is great party dish because it looks glamorous scattered with herbs,vegetables or edible flowers. The traditional Lebanese bulgar wheat gives anearthy quality, balanced by refreshing mint and lemon. When my differentcolouredHeritage tomatoes are at their best, I use tabbouleh as the base for atomatotreat,withrawandcookedtomatoes,oftenstuffedwithherbs.

Preparation:20mins,plussoakingServes4

115g/4oz/⅔cupbulgarwheat6springonions/scallions,chopped1kg/2lb4oztomatoes,skinned,deseededandchopped(seepage24),about400g/14ozpreparedweightalargepinchofallspice4tbspchoppedparsleyleaves

6tbspfinelychoppedmintleaves

90–120ml/3–4floz/⅓–½cupoliveoil

4tbsplemonjuice

2handfulsofedibleflowers,suchasmarigold,thyme,marjoram,dandelion,bergamot,borage,heartseaseornasturtium,washedseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppercookedvineleavesorrawlettuceleaves,toserveSoakthebulgarinalargebowlofwaterfor30minutes–itexpandsalot.Drainandsqueezeoutthewaterwithyourhands,thenspreadouttodryonadishtowel.

When ready, mix in all the ingredients very well and scatter with the edibleflowers.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.The tabboulehcanbeservedwithwholelettuce leaves or cooked vine leaves, which can be used to scoop up thetabbouleh.

BLACKPUDDINGWITHMINTANDBROADBEANSIliketoserveblackpuddingmadebyourlocalbutcher,notwithatraditionalBritishbreakfastofbaconandeggsbutwithfruitorvegetables,whichlightenthestrongtaste.Oneofmyfavouriteappetizersistofryslicedblackpudding,shallotsanddessertappleswithchoppedthymeinaknobofbutter.Many countries eat blood sausage, calledmorcilla in Spain, boudin noir in

France,mutura inKenya andblutwurst inGermany, for example. This recipeusesblackpuddingwithyoungbroad/favabeansandmint.


2tbspoliveoil

250g/9ozblackpuddingcutinto1cm/½inslices1garlicclove,finelychopped80ml/2½floz/⅓cupvegetablestock450g/1lb/3½cupsshelledbroad/favabeans1smallhandfulofmint,preferablyspearmintorMoroccanmint,leavespickedandchoppedseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppercrustybread,toserve

Heattheoilinafryingpanoveramediumheatandfrytheblackpuddingfor2–3minutesoneachsideuntil itdarkens.Removefromthepanandkeepwarm.Add the garlic and fry for a few minutes until it softens. Add the stock andbroad/favabeansandcookforupto5minutesuntilthebeansaretender.Returntheblackpuddingtothepanandheatthrough,thenaddthemintandseasoning.Stir,thenservewithslicesofcrustybread.

MINTYCHOCOLATEMOUSSEWITHCRYSTALLIZEDMINTLEAVESRichanddark–andsinfulifyouareonahealthkickortryingtoloseweight!Thisoldfavourite ismadea littledifferentbyaddingmint,andwill tasteveryspecial ifyouusegood-qualitydarkchocolatewithahighpercentageofcocoasolids. Apple or Bowles’s mint is perfect for this recipe, if you have it, butordinarymintwillworkfine.Ideally,makethecrystallizedmintleavesthedaybefore,sothatyoucanleavethemtodryovernight.

Preparation:15mins,pluscrystallizing,coolingandsettingCooking:5minsServes4

250g/9ozdark/semisweetchocolate,atleast70%cocoasolids,brokenintopieces1tbspbutter

1handfulofmint

4eggs,separatedCRYSTALLIZEDMINTLEAVES1eggwhite

8mintleaves

1tbspcaster/superfinesugarFirstmakethecrystallizedmintleaves.Lineaflatplatewithbakingparchment.Whisktheeggwhiteuntillightandfluffy.Brushitontotheleavesonbothsides,thensprinklewithsugar.Laytheleavesonthepreparedplateandleaveinawarmplacetodry,preferablyovernight.

Tomake themousse, put the chocolate, butter and 150ml/5fl oz/scant⅔ cupwater in a saucepan over a very low heat andmelt, stirring all the time, untilsmooth.Add themintand submerge in the liquid.Leave tocool, then removethemint,whichwill have flavoured the chocolate.Whisk the egg yolks, thenwhiskthemintothechocolatemixture.

Inacleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitesforabout5minutesuntilthickandsilky.

Foldacoupleof spoonfuls into thechocolatemixture to loosen it, thengentlyfold the remaining eggwhites into the chocolate until just blended. Turn intoindividual ramekins/custard cups and leave to set. To serve, top with thecrystallizedmintleaves.

OREGANOANDMARJORAMOregano and marjoram are in the same genus and share awarm,spicyflavour.Buttheyaredifferentspeciesandoreganois farmore pungent andgutsy,whilemarjoram ismilder andsweeterinflavour.Itisidealtogrowbothinthegarden,usingmarjoram raw or briefly cooked in subtle recipes, leavingoregano to make its mark on strongly flavoured dishes. Thetasteoforeganovariesaccordingtotheclimate,havingamoreintense flavour in hot, dry locations. This has led to itsimportance in both South American and Mediterraneancooking.

HISTORYBothoftheseherbsoriginatedintheMediterraneanbeforemovingontotherestoftheworld.OreganocomesfromtheGreekwordsorosmeaningmountainandganosmeaningjoy.InAncientGreeceitwasplantedongravestosendthedeadhappilyontheirfinaljourney.Itwassaidtobecreatedbythegoddessoflove,Aphrodite, to bring happiness. So it was woven into crowns to be worn bycouplesduringtheirweddingceremonies.

COOKING

Marjoramhasadelicateflavourthatiseasilylostincooking,soadditatthelastmomentoruseitraw.Itsleavesandflowersarewonderfulinagreensalad,andI use it with many vegetables, including artichokes, courgettes/zucchini andcauliflower.Tryitwithyoung,subtlecheesesandinsauceswithfishorchicken.

Oreganoisfar,farstronger.Itisoneofthefewherbsthatdriesreallywellandtastes even better dry than fresh in most recipes. I pick the herb just beforeflowering,whentheleaveshavemaximumflavour,andhangitinanairyplace.Onceitisdry,Istoreitinanairtightcontainerwheretheflavourwilllastforafewmonths.Dryingbringsoutitspeppery,spicytastewhichiscrucialforItalianfavouriteslikepizzaandtomatosauces.ItisusedinmanySouthAmericanandSpanish dishes as well as Greek slow-cooked lamb recipes such as LambKleftiko (see page 180),moussaka, kebabmarinades andGreek salads.Greekoregano is a particularly intense, even pungent plant, which I grow but usesparingly. I use more common oregano than other varieties, including in mytapenaderecipeonpage68.IpushitundertheskinwhenIroastchicken,useittoflavourmanycanapérecipes(seepages224–5)andaddtobakedmushroomsandaubergines/eggplants.

GROWING

Therearemanyoreganovarietieswhichareworthgrowingintheherbgarden–including golden, white and variegated – which are all very attractive. I alsogrowpotmarjoraminlargeclumpsinmyherbgardenandotherareas,becauseIamtoldbybeeexpertsthatitattractstheinsectsmoresuccessfullywhenitisinflowerthananyotherplant.

I start togetbusywithoreganoandmarjoramin thespring,dividing the large

clumps of potmarjoram inmy four formal herb beds, sowing seed forGreekoreganointhegreenhouseandgenerallytidyingupthedifferentspeciesIgrowin well-drained, sunny spots. This year, several plants of pot marjoram weregiven to the localvillage school toattractbeesandbutterflies to theirwildlifegarden.

IhavesomanymarjoramplantsthatIdonotneedtokeepcuttingthemallbacktogrowfreshleaves.ManyareleftuntilverylatesummersothatbeescanenjoytheirflowersbeforeIharvestthem,drythebigbunchesandputthedriedleavesandflowersinpotpourri.Driedmarjoram,unlikedriedoregano,isnotgoodinfood,soIalwaysusefreshleavesinrecipes.Beforethewinter,Imakesurethatallstemsarecutrightdowntotheground.

Oreganoandmarjoramlookgoodwhentheyaregrownincontainers.IfyouvisittheBritishLibrary inLondon,havea lookat their largepots in thecourtyard,which have pot marjoram in the middle with alpine strawberries planted allaroundtheedges.Theresultisquiteunusualbutcertainlyverydramatic.Theseareplantswhich thrive inwindowboxesorpots, soanyone living in townsorcitieshasthechancetoenjoyhomegrown,tastyoreganoandmarjoramintheircooking.

BEETROOTBAKEDWITHOREGANO,GARLICANDGOATS’CHEESEThis makes a good first course or a summer lunch when beetroots/beets aresmallandjuicy.Forlunch,youcanserveitwithsalamislicesandsodabread,orit is also good servedwith ricotta instead of adding goats’ cheese.Use small,fresh,rawbeetroot/beetsofasimilarsize,sotheycookevenly.


20smallbeetroot/beets75ml/2½floz/5tbspoliveoil8whole,unpeeledgarliccloves2tbspchoppedoregano

3tbspbalsamicvinegar

2roundsofgoats’cheese,about100g/3½ozeach,quarteredseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperslicesofsalami,toserve(optional)Preheattheovento190°C/375°F/Gas5.Leavetheskinsonthebeetroot/beetsbutwashthemwellandremoveallbut2.5cm/1inofthestalksandalltheleaves.Leavetherootsintactatthisstage.(youcanuseanyyoungleavesyouhaveremovedinsalads.)Drizzlethemwith1tablespoonoftheoilandwrapinaparceloffoil.Cookinthepreheatedovenforabout30minutesuntiltheskinsrubawayeasily.

Removethebeetroot/beetsfromthefoil,removingtheskinsasyougo,andputthem inanovenproofdishwith the remainingoil, thegarlic,choppedoreganoandbalsamicvinegar.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandmixwell.Returntotheoventobakefor15minutes.

Remove thedish fromtheoven, turn thebeetroot/beetoveragain in the juicesandaddthegoats’cheesequarters.Cookforanother10minutesorsountilthebeetroot/beet is soft to thepointofaknife.Servewith slicesof salami, ifyoulike.

PORKLOINWITHOREGANOTAPENADEANDTOMATOSAUCEThisrecipecanbemadeatanytimeoftheyear,butitisparticularlygoodwhenlocaltomatoesareinseasonastheywillbefullofflavourandproduceatasty,herbysauce togowith thepork.This isaveryquickandeasy recipe tomakeonceyouhaveyour tapenadeand tomatosauce. Imake lotsof tapenadewhenmyoreganoisatitsbestanditstoresforaweekintherefrigeratorbutcanalsobekeptinthefreezer.IalsomakealotoftomatosaucetostoreinthesamewaywhenIhaveaglutoftomatoes.Thetapenadecanbemadewithblackorgreenolives, but this dish looks dramatic with the pork coated in either colour,surroundedbytheredtomatosauce.


1lb/450gporktenderloin

1tbspoliveoil

greenvegetables,toserveTAPENADE115g/4oz/heaped1cuppittedolives1shallot,chopped1garlicclove,chopped2tbspcapers,drainedandrinsed1handfuloforegano,leavespickedandchopped

1tbspDijonmustard

gratedzestandjuiceof½lemon90ml/3floz/6tbspoliveoilseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperTOMATOSAUCE1smallonion,chopped

1tbspoliveoil

1garlicclove,chopped

1garlicclove,chopped500g/1lb2oztomatoes,skinned,deseededandchopped(seepage24),about200g/7ozpreparedweight250ml/9floz/generous1cupvegetablestock

1tbspfinelychoppedoregano

Tomakethetapenade,putalltheingredientsexcepttheoilinafoodprocessororblenderandprocessuntilmixed.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheoiluntilblendedandthickened.

Tomake the tomato sauce, fry theonion in theoil ina saucepan forabout10minutesuntilsoftened.Addthegarlicandcontinuetofryforafewminutes.Addthe tomatoes, stock and oregano, bring to a simmer and cook for about 10minutesuntilthick.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

Cut the pork into 12medallions and beat them outwith a steak hammer or arollingpintomakethemthinner.Spreadonesideofeachmedallionthinlywithtapenade.Heat theoil ina largefryingpan.Addthemedallions, tapenade-sideup,andcookfor2–3minutes,thenturnthemoverandfryfor2minutesontheotherside.Spoonthetomatosauceontoservingplatesandtopwith3medallionsperplate.Itcanlookattractiveifacrispgreenvegetableisservedinthemiddleofeachplatewiththemedallionsarrangedaroundit.

TAPENADEWITHROASTCHICKENThisdeliciousdishtakesonlyminutestopreparebeforepoppingyourchickeninthe oven to roast, but the addition of tapenade and lemon makes such adifferencetothefinishedresult.

Preparation:10minsCooking:1½hrsServes4–6

1recipequantityTapenade(seeopposite)1largechicken

12newpotatoes

16wholeolives,pitted8lemonquarters

8wholegarliccloves

ahandfulofchoppedoreganoormarjoram200ml/7floz/scant1cupdrywhitewineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPreheattheovento190°C/375°F/Gas5.

Pushthetapenadeundertheskinofthechicken.Putthepotatoes,olives,lemons,garlic and oregano in a large roasting pan, then pour over the wine. Sit thechickenontopandroastforabout1½hoursuntilthebirdiscookedthroughandtenderandthejuicesrunclear.Servewithafavouritegreenvegetable.

TAPENADEWITHBAKEDAUBERGINES

Tapenade goes beautifullywith aubergines/eggplants, and this recipemakes adeliciouslunch.


2aubergines/eggplantsadrizzleofextravirginoliveoil1recipequantityTapenade(seeopposite)seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPreheattheovento200°C/400°F/Gas6.

Cut the aubergines/eggplants in half lengthways and score the surfaceswith asharpknifetomakeacrisscrosspattern.Put them,skin-side-downonabakingpananddrizzlewithalittleoil.Bakefor20minutes.

Remove from the oven and spread the tapenade on the cut sides, then returnthemtotheovenforafurther10minutesuntiltenderandslightlybrowned.

[WHYNOTTRY...]

+Tapenadewithminipizzas(seecanapérecipesonpages224–5)+Adding55g/2ozanchovyfilletstotherecipeoppositetomakeamoregutsytapenade+Makingtomatotapenadebyadding55g/2ozchoppedsundriedtomatoestothetapenaderecipeopposite+Grilling/broilingsomelambcutletsuntilalmostcooked,thensmearingwithtapenadeandgrilling/broilinguntilcookedtoyourliking

CODWITHOREGANO-BRAISEDBROADBEANSANDASPICYSALSAIalwaysharvestanddrylotsoforegano,thenIuseitthroughouttheyearforrecipeswherethedriedherbisbetterthanfreshleaves.Forexample,itisusuallypreferredbyItaliancooksfortheirmanytomato-basedpizzaandpastarecipes.DuringarecentholidayinSicilyinlatespring,thefoodmarketsweresellingbunchesofdriedoregano,butIdidnotseefreshleavesforsale.ManyGreekandSpanishrecipescanusedriedorfreshoregano,includingthisSpanish-influencedfishdish.Preparation:20minsCooking:35minsServes4

100ml/3½floz/scant½cupoliveoil1onion,finelysliced1garlicclove,finelychopped450g/1lb/3½cupsshelledbroad/favabeans2tbspchoppedfreshoreganoleavesor1tbspdriedjuiceofllemon4codfillets,about140g/5ozeachseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperSPICYSALSA250g/9oztomatoes,skinned,deseededandfinelychopped(seepage24),about100g/3½ozpreparedweight1garlicclove,finelychopped1redchilli,deseededandchopped1tspsherryvinegar

2tbspoliveoil

Heatabouthalf theoil inafryingpanoveragentleheatandfry theonionforabout10minutesuntilsoftened,thenaddthegarlicandfryfor2minutes.Addthebeansandoregano,thenaddthelemonjuiceandpouroverenoughwatertojustcoverthebeans.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Bringtotheboil,thensimmergentlyfor15minutesuntilthebeansaretender.

Makethesalsabymixingtogetherallthesalsaingredients.

Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoveramediumheatandfrythecodfor4minutesoneachside.Dividethebeansamongservingplates,topwithapieceofcodandservewiththesalsa.

TARRAGONFrenchtarragonissuchabigsellerinbothgardencentresandfood shops that it is often described as the “queen of anise-scentedherbs”.ButalthoughIalwaysgrowthisperennialanduse it regularly, I believe it cannot compete with the anise-flavouredannualherbchervil,whichcanbegrownthroughoutthe year, has beautiful leaves and a wonderful taste. But Iwould not be without tarragon because it has a refined tastewhich does not overpower food. And it is important forclassics,likeBearnaiseSauce(seepage191),tarragonvinegar(seepage147)andomelettefinesherbes(seepage32).

HISTORYTarragonisnativetosouthernEurope,butitsusesoonspreadaroundtheworld,includingAsiaandNorthAmerica.ItissaidthattheancientkingsofIndiahada

favourite drink made from tarragon and fennel. It was a favourite, too, withCatherine of Aragon, when tarragon arrived in English gardens during herhusbandHenryVIII’sreign.ThekingisrumouredtohavedecidedtodivorcehisQueenbecauseofher“recklessuse”ofthisqueenofaniseherbs.

COOKING

It is important to buy or grow French tarragon. Some people confuse it withRussiantarragon,whichhasaveryinferiorflavour.

The anise taste has a natural affinity with chicken, fish, seafood, eggs,mayonnaise, potatoes, cheese,mustard, greenbeans, salads and tomatoes. It istraditionally combined with parsley, chervil and chives to make fines herbes.Tarragon is also successful in sweet dishes with fruits like nectarines andstrawberries.

Always use it raw or lightly cooked and treat it with respect. Taste it as yougraduallyaddittoadish,becauseitsflavourvariesgreatlyinintensitythroughthe season. Use the leaves from early spring until autumn. It has its sweetestaniseed taste in spring, so this is the ideal time tomake tarragon vinegar andmustard (see page 147).By the summer the flavour has becomemore intenseandsometimesbitter,souseitcarefullybecausealittlegoesalongway.

Tarragondoesnotdrywell,soIchopitfinelyatthistimeoftheyearandfreezeitinicecubetraystouseduringthewinter.

GROWING

Tarragonisahalf-hardyperennialwith long,narrow,darkgreenleaves,whichcangrowupto1m/39intall. It thrivesinwell-drainedsoil insunorshadeandcan be successfully grown in pots, or dug out and transferred to pots in latesummer,whichcanthenbebroughtinsideinwinter.Puttarragonintoapotwithplentyofspacefortherootrunnersitwillproduce.Waterintheday,neverintheeveningbecauseithatestohavewetroots.Donotfeedtarragontoomuchasthisencouragesittoproducefleshyleaveswithlessflavour.Duringthewinterwhentheplantisdormant,itisimportanttokeepitssoildry.Newleaveswillappearfarearlierthantheywouldifthetarragonhadbeenleft tohideundergroundinthecold,wintergarden.

French tarragon rarely produces seed, but propagates itself from undergroundrunners.Thesecanbeusedtoincreaseyournumberofplants.Itiseasytodointhespringbydiggingupanestablishedplantandtheneasingtherootsaparttofindwhite shoots. Break off some rootswith thesewhite shoots attached andreplantinpotswithslightlymoistcompost.Youwillsoonhavenewplants.Itisimportanttodothiseverythreeyearsbecauseoldplantslosetheflavourintheirleaves. You can also propagate tarragon in the summer by taking softwoodcuttingsofthegrowingtips.

Tarragoncansufferfromrust,soifyouarebuyingaplant,lookforthesignsofthis disease, which are small spots of a rusty colour on the underside of theleaves.Ifyouhaveaplantwhichdevelopsrustyoucansometimessaveit.Digitup,removeandburnalltheleavesandwashtherestoftheplant,includingtheroots, so theyhavenosoilattached.Put intoanewpotwith freshcompost. Ifthisdoesnotwork,repeattheprocessbutwashtheplantwithhotwaterforafewminutesbeforereplanting.

TANGYTARRAGONCHICKENTarragonisaclassicherbtocookwithchickenandthisrecipeaddsextraoomphbyusing tarragonmustard.As tarragon leavesareat theirsweetest inspring, Iusually pick a lot of them at this time andmake tarragon vinegar as well astarragonmustard tousefor therestof theyear.Themustardkeepswell in thefridgeandisusefulforthisrecipeandmanymore.

Preparation:25minsCooking:2hrs10minsServes4

1tbspclearhoney

1largeroastingchicken,about1.8kg/4lbgratedzestandjuiceof1orange,shellsreserved

1smallhandfuloftarragon

150ml/5floz/scant⅔cupchickenstock

2tbspdrysherry

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperrTARRAGONMUSTARD2tbspDijonmustard

1tspfinelychoppedtarragon

Preheat theovento190°C/375°F/Gas5.Makethe tarragonmustardbymixingtogetherthetwoingredientsinabowl.

Combine the tarragonmustardwith the honey and spread it over the chickenskin.Puttheorangeshellsandhalfthetarragoninsidethechickencavity,thenseasonthebirdwithsaltandpepperandputthebirdupsidedowninaroastingpan. Roast the bird upside down for 1½–2 hours, basting regularly with the

juices.About30minutesbeforethechickenshouldbeready,turnitoversothatthelegsandbreastscanbrown.Addtheorangezesttothejuicestosoftenduringthe final roasting period.Test that the chicken is cooked by inserting a small,sharp knife into the thickest part of the thigh – the juices should run clear.Removethechickenfromthepanandkeepitwarm.

Removethelayeroffatfromthetopofthecookingjuices.Addtheorangejuice,stock and sherry and simmer the juices in the original roasting pan until thesauceisthickandsmooth,stirringtodeglazethebottomofthepanandcombineeverythingwell.Pulltheremainingtarragonleavesoffthestemsandfinelychopthem.Stirhalfintothesauceandsimmerforanother2minutes.Servesprinkledwiththeremainingchoppedtarragon.

PRAWNSOFLOVECooking isanactof love,which iswhy Inever serve food topeople Idonotcare for.But serving special food to special friends and family is something Ilove todo. Ifyouusegiantprawns/jumboshrimpfor thisdish,arrange twoofthemhead tohead and tail to tail, then serveon aheart-shapeof red sauce tomake this dish look very romantic. I call it the Prawns of Love.You can, ofcourse,makethesamerecipeusingalargernumberofsmallerprawns/shrimpbecausetheyareeasier tofindin theshops.Itwill taste thesame,but lookfarlessglamorous.Youwouldneed200g/7ozforfourpeopleasanappetizer.Theaniseedtasteoftarragonisperfectwiththeprawns/shrimpandtheirrichsauce.Inwinter,whentarragonhasdisappearedundergroundinthegarden,theaniseedtasteofchervilmakesitagoodsubstitute.

Preparation:35mins,plusmarinatingServes4

2oranges

8largestunshelledcookedprawns/jumboshrimpyoucanfind1smallredonion,veryfinelychoppedjuiceof2limes200g/7ozsoftredpimientosfromajar450g/1lbripe,redtomatoes,skinned,deseededandchopped(seepage24),about200g/7ozpreparedweight

1tbspchoppedtarragon

1largehandfulofradicchio,chopped(optional)seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperJuice1orangeandcuttheotherintowedges.Marinatetheprawns/shrimpintheorangejuiceinanon-metallicbowlfor2–3hours.Marinatetheonioninthelimejuiceforasimilartime.Drain,reservingthemarinades.

Rubthepimientosandthenthetomatoesthroughasieve/fine-meshstrainerintoabowlandmixtogether.Addthechoppedtarragonandthefruitjuicesfromthemarinades, then seasonwith salt andpepper.Make a heart shapewith the redsauceon4whiteplates,arrange2hugeprawns/shrimpontopofeach,alsoinaheart shape, andadd the redonion in themiddleof theprawns/shrimp. Ifyou

wish, finely chop some radicchio and arrange in a heart shape around theprawns/shrimpand their sauce.Servewith theorangewedges to squeezeoverthetop.

SCALLOPSINTHETARRAGONSPRINGGARDENItisrefreshingtoservecookedscallopsonabaseoftinyspringvegetables,thesmallest you can find in your garden or greengrocery. Use a mix of babyvegetables like mangetout/snow peas, carrots, beans, or even youngcourgettes/zucchiniiftheyareavailable.


55g/2ozeachof5babyvegetablessuchasbabycorn,broccoli,carrots,courgette/zucchiniandmangetout/snowpeas

12freshscallops

30g/1oz/2tbspbutter1garlicclove,veryfinelychopped2tsptarragonvinegarorwhitewinevinegar

1tbspchoppedtarragonleaves

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperCutthevegetablesintostrips,unlesstheyareverysmall,thenblanchinboilingwaterforabout30seconds,refreshincoldwater,thendrain,patdryandarrangeonfourplates.

Cutthescallopsintotwopieces.Heataheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatuntilveryhot.Putinhalfthebutterandthrowinthescallops.Cookforabout20seconds, turnoverandcooktheothersidesfor thesametime.The idea is thattheoutsideofthescallopsshouldbeslightlycaramelized,buttheinsidealmostraw,justwarmedthrough.Takeofftheheatandarrangethescallopsonthebabyvegetables. Put the rest of the butter in the hot pan, add the garlic, then thevinegar and cook for a fewminutes until syrupy.Add the tarragon at the lastmoment,seasonwithsaltandpepperandpouroverthescallopstoserve.

HERBCHEESESCheeses happily take on the flavour of herbs, and thecombinationsareinfinite.Theseareafewofmyfavourites,butyoucanalwaysmakeyourownhealthieroptionsfromlow-fatcreamcheeseor curd,blendedwithgarlic andchervil, dill orlovage.Iputmineinanattractivepotandpressaleaffromtheherbonthesurface.

GOATS’CHEESEFINESHERBESyoucanalsopresschoppedherbleaveslikethymeorsavoryintoasoftcheese,thenleaveitforaday.

Preparation:18minsServes4

2tbspoliveoil

1garlicclove,crushed3tbspfinelychoppedtarragonleaves2tbspsnippedchives

3tbspfinelychoppedparsley

250g/9ozlogofsoftgoats’cheeseseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperextratarragon,chivesandparsley(finesherbes),toserveMixtheoil,garlic,herbsandseasoning,thenmarinatethecheeseintheherboilfor2days,turningfromtimetotime.Drainwell,rollinasmallamountofextrafinesherbesandputonthecheeseboard.

SALADBURNETCHEESEBALLS

Makethisrecipeinwinterwhensaladburnet,withitsmildcucumbertasteandattractive,darkgreenleaves,thrivesthroughfrostandsnow.


175g/6oz/⅔cupcreamcheese(low-fat,ifwished),mashed85g/3ozGruyèrecheese,gratedapinchofcayennepepper3tbspchoppedsaladburnetleaves,plusextratofinishseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperMixthecreamcheesewiththeotheringredients,seasonandchillfor2–3hoursuntilfirm,thenformintosmallballsandrollinmorechoppedsaladburnet.

POTTEDSTILTONANDTHYMEIcannotresistbuyingawholeStiltonforChristmasandalwayshaveplentyleftovertomakethis.


225g/8ozStiltoncheese55g/2oz/4tbspsoftenedbutter,plus150g/5½oz/⅔cupextraforclarifyingapinchofgroundmace1tspEnglishmustard

1tspfinelychoppedthymeleaves

Mash thecheesewith thebutter,mace,mustardand thymeuntil creamy.Packintoattractivepots.

Melt the butter for clarifying over a very low heat. Use a spoon to skim anyfoamoffthetopofthebutter.SlowlypourtheclearbutterovertheStiltoninthepots,stoppingbeforeyoureachthemilksolidsatthebottomofthepan.Leavetoset.

SUMMER

SUMMERHERBSHerb enthusiasts look forward to summer because scented,intoxicating flowers join the lush green leaves of the herbs,attractingbeesandbutterfliesandimprovingthelookandtasteof food. Summer rain makes it hard for insects, preventingthemfromflying to theherbgarden tocollect thenectar theyneed to survive, so it’s a reliefwhen the sun breaks throughand I hear the buzz of bees around the sage flowers,chamomile,lemonverbena,geraniums,clovepinks,heartsease,lavender, bergamot, roses and the bees’ favourite – potmarjoram.ItwastheRomanswhointroducedusingflowersincookery to Britain. The 5th-century cookbook Apiciusmentions violets, mallow, roses and lavender, all of which Igrowanduse.

It is a good idea to plant herbswith their flowering times inmind.So I growthymeswhich flower early in the summer in the same area as pink, blue andwhitehyssopsandafewtypesofmarjoram,becausetheyallflowerlaterintheseason.Borageself-seedseverywherewith itsdelightfulblueorwhiteflowers.Whenthegroundiswet,Imovethestrayplants,withplentyofsoilattached,toareaswhereIpreferthemtogrow.

Borageflowerslookglamorousinicecubesandonfood.Theblueflowersareparticularlygoodonblackcurrantrecipes,saladsandfloatingonmyBorageandCucumber Soup (see page 85). Other flowers that are worth growing for thekitchen include thepepperynasturtium,marshmallowandchives. I alsogrowscentedrosestoprovidepetalsforicecubes,icecreamsandsorbets(seepages110–11),syrups(seepage130)andRosePetalJam(seepage104).Iusethejaminmanyways,butonefavouriteistheMoroccanspeciality,grilled/broiledQuailwithRosePetalSauce(seepage104).

My herbs and their flowers were useful for my older son’s wedding becausemanyof themwereused in tussie-mussies fordecorating thechurchpewsandmarquee. These are posies made from scented herbs and flowers which werecarried during the plagues because herbalists believed they were antiseptic,preventinginfectionaswellasdisguisingsmells.Iusedpurplesageleavesandtheirflowers,rosemary,goldenmarjoram,lavender,clovepinks,alchemillaandmanyroses.

At this time of year, it is a good idea to harvest herbs and their flowers fordrying,becausetheyarenowattheirbest.Alwayspicktheminthemiddleofthemorningonawarm,drydaywhenthedewhasevaporated.Theflowersshouldbeopenfromtheirbudsbutnotfullblown.Atthisstagetheyhavenotreleasedtoomuchoftheiressentialoilandwillthereforebefullofscentwhentheyaredried.Herbs like thyme,mint and oregano are dried in bunches. I hang themoverthecookersothatinwintermonths,whenfewerherbsareavailable,Icangiveabunchoflemonthyme,forexample,aquicksqueezeoverapan,andtheleaveswilldropintothesauce.Quickandsimple.Themoredelicateherbslikechives, tarragon anddill donot drywell, so they are choppedvery finely andfrozenwithwaterinicecubetrays.

Thisistheseasonwhenthechoiceofrecipesbecomesenormousbecausealltheherbs are thriving. Recently my husband set aside several recipes which hefanciedusingwiththefishhehadboughtthatday.Hedecidedhewouldchoose

therecipebasedonwhichherbswereattheirbest.Butwhenhecheckedtheherbgarden,hefoundthateverysingleoneoftherecipeswaspossiblebecausesorrel,dill, fennel, tarragon, chives, parsley, thyme, savory, mint, lovage, chervil,lemonbalmandlandcresswereallintopforminthegarden.Hechosesorrel,oneofhisfavouritesforfish.

Havingawell-stockedherbgardenmeansthatyouneverhavetorushofftotheshopstofindingredients.Thebesthome-grownmethodoftransformingfoodisthere just outsideyour door and sadly it is hard to findmanyofmy favouriteherbsintheshops.Consideringthefactthatinterestinherbsissoaring,itishardto understandwhy the range of herbs on sale – and grown in gardens – is solimited.ThatiswhyIgiveawaymyherbstolocalchefs,neighboursandfriends.

Latesummeristhetimetogrowsaladherbstosupplythekitchenthroughoutthewinter. They do not bolt or become full of holes from flea beetle as they dowhenIsowtheminspring.Theyalsohaveabettersizeandflavour.Ifyouareshort of space, growmixed salad herbs, by the kitchen door in a large pot ortroughandcutthemveryyoungeveryweektoserveastasty,good-lookingsaladleaves.AsIhaveplentyofspaceinmygarden,Iliketogrowdifferenttypesofcress,mustards,rocket/arugulaandpurslane.whichIhavegrowingallthroughthesummermonths.

[SUMMERACTIONLIST]

+Thinchamomileseedlingsto15cm/6inapartandmakesuccessivesowingsofchervileachmonth.

+Ileavesomeofchervil’sprettywhiteflowerstosetseed,whichturnblackwhentheyarereadytopickinveryearlysummer.Bystoringthemandsowingregularly,youcanhavehealthychervilgrowingfor12monthsoftheyear.

+Takecuttingsofmanyherbs,includingthesageandthymeyouarepruningafterflowering.Usenon-floweringshootsforpropagating.Youngsageplantsintheirfirstyearshouldhavethetipsofshootscutbacktoencouragebushygrowth.

+Thindillseedlingsto25cm/10inapart.Ileaveafewflowerheadstosetseed.+Cutlemonverbenaandspecialsages,likeblackcurrant,tangerineand

+Cutlemonverbenaandspecialsages,likeblackcurrant,tangerineandpineapple.Usetheleavesinsummerrecipes.

+Cutoffmostoftheflowerheadsoflovageastheyappear,leavingjustoneortwotoseed.Whentheleavesstarttoyellow,Icutthemrightdowntoencouragenew,greenshoots.

+Bymid-summeritispossibletocollecttheseedsofmanyherbs.Mostofthemcanbekeptfornextspring,butangelicaseedsmustbesownwithinthreemonthstobeviableandlovageseedsshouldbesownoutsideintheautumn.Borageseedsalwaysdotheirownrandomthing,soIhavenevercollectedtheseedfromthisannualherbandsowntheminaspecialarea.Theyalwaysappearthenextyearandifyoungplantsarefoundinanunsuitablespot,theyareeasytomove.

+Sowannualslikedill,coriander/cilantroandsummersavoryatthestartofeachsummermonth.Basilcanbegrownoutsideinsummer,too.

BORAGEBorageisallaboutitsflowers,whicharethemostexquisiteintheherbgarden.Theyarenormallyblue,sometimeswithahintofpinkorpurple.ButIalsogrowawhiteversioncalledAlba.Theyaredelicate,beautifullyshapedandcoloured,aswellasbeingquitedelicious.Ifyoupoponeinyourmouth,theflowerreleases a sweet cucumber taste. They make a wonderfuladditiontodrinks,andareoftenaddedtoPimm’s,perpetuatingthejoyfulcombinationofalcoholandborage.

HISTORYBorageisnativeto theMediterraneanregion,andbeesloveitsnectarsomuchthattheherbwasoncecalled“beebread”.Throughouthistory,itsflowershavebeenaddedtodrinks,andtheherbalistGerardsaidin1597thatthegallantblueflowersinwinedrive“awayallsadnesse,dullnesseandmelancholy”.

COOKING

I scatter borage flowers on salads, summer fruits and soups.The blue flowerslookattheirbestonpurple,blueorpinkfoods–seemyrecipeforBasil,Borage,Gorgonzola and Figs on page 22. I particularly like using the flowers on adessert I make with pannacotta, red fruits like strawberries, cherries orraspberriesandablackcurrantcoulis.LastspringwetookfriendsforlunchtotheTresantonhotelinCornwall,Uk,whereweweresurprisedtoseeborageflowersdecoratingthedessertatthattimeofyear.Iaskedthechefhowhetrackedthemdown,becausethisherbdoesnotnormallyfloweruntilsummer.HetoldmetheyweregrownunderglassinEssex,farawayfromCornwall.Suchistheirappeal.Ialsofreezethemintoicecubesforcelebratorydrinks–aclassicgarnish.

I use the borage leaves for soup (see right), cook them like spinach and chopthemuptoaddtoPimm’s,alongwithfruit,mintandcucumber.

GROWING

Borage flowers, sometimesknownas starflowers, appear in early summer andlastuntil theautumn. It self-seedseasilyeveryyearand thrives insunnyspotswith freedraining soil. Some gardeners grow the herb with vegetables andtomatoestodeterbugs.Itwillalsogrowinpots.Theleavesareediblebutitiswisetopickthemyoungbeforetheybecomestiffandhairy.

BORAGEANDCUCUMBERSOUPThis is a perfect soup for a hot summer evening and is so simple tomake. Itlooks cool and inviting and your spirits will be lifted by the exquisite blueborageflowersfloatingonthepalegreensurface.

Preparation:20mins,pluschillingCooking:10minsServes4

2cucumbers,choppedinto1cm/½inpieces1largehandfulofyoungborageleaves,pickedandchopped4springonions/scallions,chopped500ml/17floz/generous2cupschickenorvegetablestock300g/10½oz/1¼cupsplainyogurtapinchofcayennepepperseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperTOSERVE120ml/4floz/½cupdouble/heavycream4tspfinelysnippedchives

16borageflowers

Put the cucumber, chopped borage leaves and spring onions/scallions in thestock,bringtotheboilandsimmerforabout5minutes.Useastickblender(ortransfer to a blender) to blend in the yogurt, then leave to cool and chill untilreadytoserve.

Seasonthechilledsoupwithcayenne,saltandpepper.Toserve,swirlaspoonfulof cream into eachbowl, sprinklewith chives and float theborage flowersontop.

DILLDill has an invigorating, pungent taste, perfect with bigflavours like smoked fish, beetroot/beet, mustards andgherkins.Itisadelicate-looking,softherbwhichisnotsuitedtolongcookingandisusedmostoftensnippedoverprepareddishes, which benefit from its aniseed taste with a hint ofcitrus. It looks attractive on food and is also thought tostimulate appetite andhelpdigestion.The feathery leaf isnotasstronglyflavouredastheseed,butbothareusedinfood,aswell as whole flower heads, which are added when you arepicklingcucumbersorgherkins.

HISTORYDillisnativetosouthernEuropeandAsiabutisnowseengrowingwildinmanypartsoftheworld.ThenamedillisthoughttocomefromtheAnglo-Saxonword

dylle,whichmeans “to soothe”. Itwas used to calm stomach ache andmixedintogripewater given tobabies.More romantically, itwas infused inwine toencouragepassion.Dillseedswere takenbysettlers tonorthAmericawhere itwasknownas“MeetingHouseSeed”becausechildrenweregivenittodulltheirappetiteduringlongsermons.ItisnotsurprisingthatintheBibletheGospelofStMatthewdescribesusingdillasataxpaymentbecauseitwassovalued.

COOKING

Dillisapopularherbforsalmon,soyoucanusuallyfinditinsupermarketsandgreengrocers. It will keep for up to a week in the refrigerator. But there isnothinglikehavingitfreshinyourgarden.BecauseIletitgotoseedtocollectforeatingandsowing,Icanalsoenjoythebrightyellowflowers,whichIpicktocheerupmybuttercup-yellowkitchen.Asmyoldestgranddaughteroftensays:“Yellowismyfavouritecolourbecauseitisahappycolour.”

Dill isoneofthemostpopularculinaryherbsinScandinavia,IranandEasternEurope, where it is used with potatoes, pork, fish, eggs, yogurt and pickledcucumbers.Thedelicate-lookingleaveshaveadeceptivelypowerfulflavour,soyou need to be careful with the quantities you use. Inmost recipes, the herbshouldbeaddedneartheendofthecookingforbestresults.Ilikeitinpancakestoservewithsmokedsalmonandit ismyfavouriteherbforliftingthetasteofcourgette/zucchinisoup.

As Idonot like the flavourofdrieddill, I freezechopped, fresh leaves in icecubetraystouseduringthewinter.Myrecipesonpages90–1showhowIlikeitwithcucumberandalsowithporkandgherkinsauce.Dillisgoodinamustardsauce for fish, to make smoked salmon and cream cheese pâté, with freshbroad/favabeans,withherringsandinomelettes,riceandmanyvegetablesoups.Thisherbmay look like fennel,but its softer, silkier leavesaremoreuseful inthekitchen.

GROWING

As I like to have dill growing for as long as possible, I make three or foursowingsof this annual, starting in early spring. I sowseeddirectly in a sunnyspot,20cm/8inapart,asitdoesnotlikebeingtransplanted.Theleavesarereadywithin twomonths. The plant normally grows to about 60cm/24in tall, but in

someareasgrowsto1.5m/5ft.

The small yellow flowers grow in attractive umbels because dill is from theUmbelliferaefamilyofplants.Waterdillwellsothatitdoesnotquicklyruntoseedandfeedwithfertilizer.Wheniteventuallygoes toseed,harvest theseedheadsandleavethemtodrycompletelyinapaperbag,thenstoreinanairtightcontainer to use for cooking and also for sowing in the garden the followingyear.They remainviable for threeyears if theyare stored in adryplace.Dillseedhasawarmaniseedflavourandisatraditionalpicklingspice.

Donotgrowdillnearfennelastheycancross-pollinate.Theyshareananiseedtastewithotherplantslikesweetcicely,aswellasaniseandstaranise.Thistastecomes from an aromatic compound called anethole, which I love in manyrecipes.

TARTARESAUCEWITHDILLItishardtofindgood-tastingtartaresauceinajar.Thisrecipehasamuchbetterflavouranditisquicktomake.Wellworth15minutesofyourtime.Itisperfectwith plain fish, it works well with fish cakes and I like to serve it withvegetables.Wegrowa lotofglobeartichokesand I like toseparate theheartsandfreezethemtouseinthewinter.Myfavouritewaytoservewholeartichokesis tocook them,cool them, thenserve themwith this tartaresaucefordippingtheleavesandeatingwiththehearts.


150ml/5floz/scant⅔cupmayonnaiseDijonmustard,totaste1tspchoppedgreenolives1tspfinelychoppedgherkins1tsprinsedandchoppedcapers2tspchoppeddill

1tspchoppedparsleyleaves

Mixalltheingredientstogetherandusethesaucetoliftmanydishes.

PORKWITHGHERKINANDDILLSAUCEWhenIwasastudent, themealsserved incollegeweredismalandoneofmyfriends there made me feel worse by describing in mouth-watering detail thewonderfulrecipesherfamilycookedathome.Onedishsheravedaboutwasthisone,whichoriginatedinEasternEurope.Shedidnotknowtheexactrecipe,buttheideaappealedtomesomuchthatIdevisedmyownversionandhavebeeneatingitregularlyeversince.Myolderson,wholefthomemanyyearsago,askedifIcouldservethisdish

over the lastChristmasholidaysbecausehemissed it somuch.Gherkin sauceworkswithanypork,but Iusuallyuseporksteaksorchops.Thegherkinsaresoldinjarswithdill,mustardseedandvinegar.When I have some leftover brownbread, Imake it into breadcrumbs in the

foodprocessor andput it inplasticbags in the freezer so I alwayshave someavailableforthisandotherrecipes.


4porkchopsorsteaks,about140g/5ozeach

2tbspoliveoil

175g/6oz/3½cupsbrownbreadcrumbsorpankobreadcrumbs2garliccloves,chopped1tbspplain/all-purposeflour185ml/6floz/¾cupvegetablestock2gherkins,eachabout13cm/5in(whichmaybeslicedintoquartersinthejar),thinlysliced

1tbspchoppeddill

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppercabbageandmashedpotato,toserveBrushtheporkwithhalfoftheoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Putthebreadcrumbsinashallowbowlandcoattheporkwiththebreadcrumbs.Heattherestoftheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addtheporkandcookforabout5minutesoneachsideuntilitisgoldenbrown.Leavetorestinawarmoven.

warmoven.

Addthegarlictothepanandfryfor30seconds,thenstirintheflour.Pourinthestock very gradually, stirring continuously, until you have a smooth sauce. Ioftenaddalittleofthedillvinegarfromthepicklejar.Addthegherkins,raisetheheattohighandcookvigorouslyforseveralminutesuntilthegherkinshavesoftenedandthesaucehasthickened.Addthedill,cookthroughforaminuteorso,thenservewiththeporkandvegetables.

CRAB-FILLEDCOURGETTEFLOWERSWITHTOMATOANDDILLSAUCEIgrowlotsofcourgettes/zucchini,andIliketocultivatebothgreenandyellowto make recipes look more interesting. I also make good use of the flowers,stuffing them with several different mixtures, the most simple being creamcheesemixedwithaherbsuchaschives.Thereisactuallyadifferencebetweenthemaleandfemaleflowers,andalthoughsomechefs– likeRuthRogers, thefounderoftheRiverCaféinLondon,forexample–believethemaleflowersaresuperior, Iuseboth.And that’sdespitea friend tellingme Ihad just said“themostpretentiousthingshehadeverheard”whenIexplainedthatIhadrecentlyboughtmyfirst-everdeepfatfryerjusttocookmycourgette/zucchiniflowersinbatter!


12smallcourgettes/zucchiniwithflowersattached230g/8ozcrabmeat,ideally55g/2ozbrownand175g/6ozwhitemeat2shallots,finelychopped45g/1½oz/3tbspbutter750g/1lb10oztomatoes,skinned,deseededandfinelychopped(seepage24),about300g/10½ozpreparedweight4tbspdrywhitewine4tbspfishstock

2tspchoppeddill

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPreheattheovento190°C/375°F/Gas5.Removethestigmafromeachflowerandwashtoremoveanyinsects.Iftheflowersbreakoffwhileyouarepreparingthedish,astheytendto,donotworry.Stufftheflowerswiththecrabmeat.

Tomakethesauce,softentheshallotsinthebutteroveralowheatforabout10minutes, then add the tomatoes and simmer for 4minutes. Add thewine andstockandcontinuetosimmerforabout5minutesuntilitreachestheconsistencyofsingle/lightcream.Addthedillandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

Arrangethecourgettes/zucchiniandtheirflowersinanovenproofservingdish.Pour over the sauce and cook in the oven for 7 minutes until the babycourgettes/zucchiniaretenderbutstillfirm.

EDIBLEFLOWERSIbelievethatflowerscantasteasgoodastheylook.Therearemorethan100edibleflowersgrownintheUkaloneandIhavedozensof these inmygarden. Iwelcome theearliest flashofcolourintheyearfromprimrosesandvioletswhich,likealltheflowersIeat,canbescatteredonsalads,puddingsandsavourydishes or incorporated into cooked recipes. It is also worthcrystallizingflowerstoextendtheirlifefordecoratingfood.

There is nothing new about eating flowers. The Ancient Greeks and Romansenjoyed them and Middle Eastern cooks were thought to be the first to usemarigoldsintheirfoodcenturiesago.JohnEvelynwroteaboutaddingflowersto“othersalleting”(salads)inthe1600s,andHannahGlasserecordedrecipesthatusedflowersinthe18thcentury.

Thetastecanbepowerful,sousethemcarefully.Herbflowersareagoodplacetostartexperimenting,astheynormallytastemilderthantheirleaves.Trybasilflowers over a tomato and mozzarella salad, delicate cow parsley-likecoriander/cilantro blossoms with prawns/ shrimp, sage flowers in salads andfenneloverfish.

Youcannowbuynasturtiumandpansies, forexample, infoodshops,but it isbettertogrowyourownifyoucan.Youwillknowtheyarechemicalfreeandhave not been picked from hedgerows near polluted roads. The best time toharvestflowersisinthemorningafteranydewhasdriedbutbeforetheheatofmid-day. Herb flowers have their highest oil concentration and flavour justbeforethebloomsarefullyopen.

Washthem,dryonpapertowelsandstoreforashorttimeinafreezerbagatthebottomoftherefrigerator.Ifyouareaddingthemtoasalad,putadressingonlyonthesaladleavesandaddtheflowersatthelastmomentbeforeserving.

Borage ismy favourite edible flower because of its true blue beauty, delicateshapeanddeliciouscucumbertaste.ItwaspopularwiththeAncientRomansandstillgrowswildinsomeareas.Ifindtheplantspopupeverywhere,eveninlonggrass,soImoveyoungplantswhenthegroundiswettoareaswheretheywillthrive. Borage adds style and taste to desserts, soups, salads and drinks. Likemanypeople,IaddthemtoicefordrinksandIamknownbythechildreninourvillageas“thewomanwhoputsflowersinhericecubes”.Youcanalsofreezetheminoliveoiltoaddlatertocoldsoups.Blueanchusa,rosepetals,violasandchiveflowerscanalsobefrozeninwateroroil.

Primrose and violet plants edge one ofmy herb beds, bringing subtle colourand flavour to recipes. Iuseboth the flowersand leavesofprimrose in saladsandtheirflowers,likeviolets,caneasilybecrystallized.

Daylilyflowershaveacrunchytextureandapepperytaste.Theycanbeaddedtosaladsorstuffedwithaherbfillingbeforebeingsautéed.

Pinks or Dianthus have a spicy scent and delicate flavour. I particularly likeusingthesubtlevarietycalledClovePink.

Cornflowershaveastrongbluecolourandspicy-sweetflavour.Thepetalsaresold dried in France but fresh are always better. Stir into egg dishes or pastasaucesandserveinsalads.

Viola flowerscombinefragrancewithsubtle flavourand lookgorgeouson theplate.AllplantsintheviolafamilyaresuitablebutIparticularlylikethesmallBritish native that growswild in Scotland, viola tricolour or Heartsease. It iseasytogrowfromseedandwithluckwillself-seedonceestablished.

Pot marigold petals add a hint of pepper and nuttiness to food like soups,risotto, tabbouleh and casseroles, and the bold orange petalsmake salads andbeetroot/beetdisheslookspecial.Theyalsolookgoodagainstthepalegreenofchilledvichyssoiseor lettucesoup.Trymakingacheesesouffléscatteredwithmarigold petals or scrambled eggs with chopped petals added just before theeggsaredone.Using thepetals isonewayof addingcolour to ricedishes, sotheycanbesubstitutedforsaffron.

Nasturtiums are widely used in food for their punchy, peppery taste anddazzlingcolour.Tryadishofcookedprawns/shrimpwithlemonjuiceandslicedavocado,servedonabedoflettucewithsaladdressingandnasturtiumflowers.

Aswellassalads,trythemchoppedandmixedintomayonnaiseorinfishcakes.Usetheflowersshreddedincreamcheeseorrisotto.

Moreedibleflowersincludethepalebluechicoryorendive,wildgarlic,thyme,chervil, bergamot, chives, honeysuckle, dandelion, chamomile,marshmallow,sweet woodruff, Japanese chrysanthemum, lavender, garlic chives and sweetrocket/arugula. My granddaughters (see above) help me sow seeds in spring,includingnasturtiumsandpotmarigolds.Thismaybeonereasonwhytheylovewanderingaroundthegardenpickingedibleflowersandsaladherbleavesforasalad,whichtheyproudlymixandputonthetablewithameal.Thesedishescanonly bemade at a certain time of the yearwith home-picked flowers. That iswhatgivesthemtheirmagicandmakesthemmemorable.

CRYSTALLIZINGFLOWERS

The simplest technique for crystallizing flowers such as rose petals is to dipthem in egg white that has been forked through, then sprinkle them withcaster/superfinesugar.Formorecomplicatedflowers,holdthembythestalkanduseapaintbrushtocoatthemwitheggwhite,thensprinkle.Leavethemtodryfor 24–48 hours on baking parchment. Handle them carefully as theywill bebrittle.Storeinanairtightcontainerforuptoaweek.

HYSSOPHyssop isvaluable for its thin, spicy leaveswith theirhintoflemon, rosemary and mint, while the flowers cheer up thegardeninlatesummerwhenthere’slittleothercolour.Igrowtheblue,whiteandpinkfloweringhyssops,whichattractbeesandbutterfliesandofferplentyofedibleflowersforsalads,eggdishes andpuddings.They arenear the thymeplants, as theyalso like sunny conditions and once the faded thyme flowershavebeencutback,thehyssopsaresooninbloom.

HISTORY

AMediterraneanherb,hyssophasalsobeencultivatedinEuropeangardensforhundredsofyears.ItwastakentothenewWorldtouseinherbteaandtobacco,and was also thought to have antibiotic qualities. It is said that Hippocratesrecommended hyssop for chest complaints and lepers were bathed in hyssopwater.HyssopismentionedintheBibleseveraltimes.InExodusitisexplainedthattheherbisusedforputtingthebloodofsacrificesondoorpostsonthenightofPassover.

COOKING

Because of its strong flavour, it is used in bouquet garni, stuffings and withgame,especiallyrabbitandvenison.Butthefreshleavesarealsogoodinsyrupstoflavourfruit.Iliketomixitwithlemon,sugarandwatertomakeasyrupthatliftsthetasteofpoachedpeachesorplums.

GROWING

ThereareseveralspeciesbutthebestknownisHyssopusofficinalis,whichhasbrightblueflowers.Hyssopisasemi-evergreenhardyperennial,whichflowersfrom summer into the early autumn and grows 1m/39in high. It can also be

trimmedbacktouseasalowhedge.

I collect seeds in autumnand sow them inside in early spring,beforeplantingthemout30cm/12inapart.Theonlyexceptionisrockhyssop,whichisathirdoftheheightwithdarkblueflowers,andcanonlybepropagatedbycuttings.

RABBITWITHPLUMS,PORTANDHYSSOPWild animals are normally healthier than farmed animals because their activelivesmeantheyarelowerinsaturatedfat.Thisiscertainlytrueforwildrabbits,whichalsohavemoreflavourthanthepaler-flesheddomestic,farmedrabbitssopopularinFrance.I eatwild rabbitbychoice,but althoughwehavemany runningaroundour

patch,choppingofftheflowerheadsastheygo,Icannotbringmyselftokillandcook these resident animals. There has to be a distance between death anddinner.SoIbuywildrabbitfromourbutcher–andaskhimtojointitforme–especiallywhenmybrothervisits.ItishisfavouritefoodandIcookitforhimwithmustardsauce,with lemonandcreamorwithplums.All these recipesofmine use hyssop, which is especially goodwith rabbit because its hot, mintyflavourcounteractstherichnessofthewildflesh.TheplumsIuseinthisrecipearealocalspeciescalledPershorePurple,whichweplantedinasmallorchard20yearsago.Butanyplumsaresuitableforusinginthisdish.

Preparation:25minsCooking:2hrs30minsServes4

1.4kg/3lb2ozwildrabbit,jointed1tbspplain/all-purposeflour

1tbspoliveoil

1onion,finelychopped3garliccloves,finelychopped

2tspfinelychoppedhyssopleaves

400g/14ozplums,pitted100ml/3½floz/scant½cupportseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppernewormashedpotatoesandasteamedorboiledgreenvegetable,toservePreheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4.Washthejointsandpatthemdryonpapertowels,thendipthepiecesinwell-seasonedflour.

Heat the oil in a flameproof casserole dish and fry the rabbit pieces over amedium–highheatforafewminutesuntilbrowned,thenremovethemfromthedishandleavetooneside.Turndowntheheat,addtheonionandgarlictothedishandfryforabout10minutesuntilsoftened.Addthehyssopandplums,thenput the rabbit pieces on top and pour over the port. Cover the dish withparchmentpaperandthelid.Cookin theovenforabout2hours,checkingtherabbitafteranhourandthenevery15minutes.Thefleshshouldbesoftbutnotfallingoffthebone.

When it is cooked, take out the rabbit and leave it to rest in a warm place,covered in foil.Meanwhile, boil the juicesover ahighheat to concentrate theflavouranduntilthesauceistheconsistencyofdouble/heavycream.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Servetherabbitandsaucewithpotatoesandasimplegreenvegetable.

LAVENDERNo garden should be without lavender, with its sensualcombinationofbeautiful flowersandheadyscent. Iuse it forperfumed hedges, dividing different parts of the garden. It iswonderful to suddenly come across the overwhelming colourof fields of lavender being grown commercially in Provenceandotherareas.Buteveryonecanenjoy thisplantona smallscalebecauseitgrowshappilyinpots.

HISTORYLavenderisnativetotheMediterranean,butnowgrowsaroundtheworld.TheAncientRomansenjoyed it in theirbathwater and in1620 thePilgrimFatherstooktheplantwiththemtoAmerica.IthasbeenusedforcenturiesintheUKasaninsectrepellentandodoursuppressor,usuallystrewnonfloors.

COOKING

COOKING

Idrylavendertomixwithrosepetalsandherbflowersinpotpourriandtoscentlog fires. It also adds a floral, aromatic flavour to lambandchicken recipes. Imake lavender sugar every summer (see page 132),which I store in jars overwinter for cakes and biscuits. Lavender Syrup (see page 130) ismadewithinminutesfromflowerbuds,sugarandwater.Iusethiswithstrawberries,peachesandraspberries.ButIalsoinfusecreamormilkwithlavenderwhenIammakingdesserts,includingicecream,andlavenderisusedinmyAppleandHerbJelly(seepage166),oneofmyfavouritejellies.

GROWING

GrowvarietiesofLavendulaangustifoliaforthebesttaste.ItscommonnameisEnglishLavender and I recommendDwarfMunstead andHidcot for hedging.Use flowers, buds and even young leaves in food through spring and earlysummer.Youcangrownewplantsfromcuttings,buttheyrarely“cometrue”ifyou trygrowing fromseed.They thrive in sunny, free-draining soil. Ifyoudonothavetheseconditions,addlotsofgritwhenplanting.

Cut back in spring and summer. The normal advice is to replace plantswhentheybecomeleggy,usuallyafterthreetofiveyears.ButIavoidhavingtodothisbycuttingrightbackintothewoodafterthesummerflowers,afteradvicefromalavenderfarmer in theUK.Ihavenot losta lavenderplantyet in the20yearstheyhavebeengrowinginmygarden.

LAVENDERLAMBThelavenderfieldsinProvenceareaninspiringsight,butfarmersinotherpartsoftheworldarealsoproducinglavenderonalargescale,soitisnoweasiertobuy lavender products, like lavender honey and sugar.Many of us grow thiswonderfulplantinourgardensorinpotsonthebalconyorveranda.Thiscouldbewhyitisbeingusedmoreofteninrecipes,sweetandsavoury.Lavenderandlemon chicken is a speciality of one ofmy closest friends and I like tomakeLavenderLamb.

Preparation:15mins,plusmarinatingCooking:1hour15minsServes4

1smalllegoflamb,about2.5kg/5lb8oz2garliccloves,sliced2tbsplavenderflowers,preferablyfresh

2tbsplavenderhoneyorclearhoney

120ml/4floz/½cupdrywhitewine90ml/3floz/generous⅓cuplambstockseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperMakeholesinthesurfaceofthelambwiththetipofasharpknifeandpushinthegarlicslices.Crushthelavenderflowersinapestleandmortar,thenmixwiththehoneyandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Spoonoverthelambandleaveforupto4hoursatroomtemperature.

Preheattheovento220°C/425°F/Gas7.Putthelambinaroastingpanandcookfor1hour,or longer ifyoudonot like themeatpink.Lift themeatoutof thepan, cover with foil and leave to rest in a warm place for 15minutes beforecarvingandserving.Whilethemeatisresting,puttheroastingpanwithitsmeatjuices over a low heat, add the wine and stock and deglaze by stirring upanything stuck to the bottom. Simmer until you have a sauce of a goodconsistency,smoothandthick,andservewiththelamb.

ROSERosesare themostbeautifulofall flowers. Iparticularly loveold roses, for theirscent, their formand theircolours. June ismyfavouritemonthinmygardenbecausetherosesareattheirbest.Whenthebudsfirstopen,thedelicatepetalsandsensuoussmells are exhilarating. Every year I am stunned by theirperfection.PerhapsmyfavouriteisRosamundi,withitsstripesindifferentshadesofpink,plantedcentrallyintheformalbedsoftheherbgarden.

HISTORYTheearliestrosesweregrowninPersia,buttheirfamesoontransportedthemtoGreeceandthentoRome.Foodwritersinancientbooksproducedrecipesusing

scentedroses,sotheysoonbecamelovedfortheirflavouraswellastheirlooksand fragrance. Pickled rose buds, rose jams, syrups, vinegars and otherconserveswerepopular.Roseshave tobeheavily,headily fragrant towork infood, so early choiceswere theApothecary’sRose,Rosa gallica, theDamaskRose and the Rugosa Rose. They all have deep-coloured petals, which makerecipesprettilypink.Andtheyarestillpopulartoday.

COOKING

Tocapture the rose fragranceyouneed lotsofpetalswilted inhotwater.Thisproducesabrownmess,butonce themixture is strained, themagicalperfumeand flavour of roses remain in the liquid. To make a herb syrup, which isdeliciousinchampagne,cordials,icecreamandsummerfruitrecipes,followtheinstructionsforRosePetalJam(seepage104),strainthepetalsandreducetheliquidtotheconsistencyyouwant.

Youcanmakerose liqueurby fillinga jarwithamixof two-thirdspetalsandone-thirdsugarandpouringovervodka.Seal, shakeandstore inadarkplace.Shakeagain regularlyandafter a fewmonthsyoucan strain themixture forarose-flavouredwintertreat.Oryoucanflavourajarofsugarwithahandfulofrosepetals(seepage132).

Forwinterrosescent,Idryrosepetalsforpotpourri,butinMoroccoandpartsoftheMiddleEastdriedrosebudsandpetalsaregroundintoapopularspiceandrosebuds are often added tomeat stews.Driedpetals andbuds are sold in themarkets,aswellasrosewater,whichisusedinmanylocalrecipes.

Whenrosepetalsareattheirsummerbest,Iscatterthemoverdessertsorsaladleaves,oftenwithotheredibleflowers.Addpetalswhenyouarepoachingfruitlikepeachesormakingfruitsalad,orusewithpearsorquinceinanautumntart.Onedeliciousideaistomixstrawberriesorraspberrieswithpiecesofmeringue,rosepetalsandrosesyrup.Rosepetalscanalsobecrystallizedusingthemethoddescribedonpage95.

Donotuseshop-boughtrosesforcookingbecausetheymayhavebeensprayedwithchemicals.Picknewlyopenedrosesinthemiddleofthemorning,afterthedewhasdriedbutbefore the importantoilhasbeendrivenoffby thehot sun.Any heavily scented roses, of any colour, are suitable for cooking. Shake theflowers to remove insects, thenpulloff thepetals and remove thebitterwhite

heelonthebaseofeachpetal.

GROWING

Grow your roses in well-drained soil in a sunny spot. Enrich the soil withmanureorrosefertilizersinspring,aftertheirfirstflowering,andinlateautumn.Thenyoushouldneverneedtospraythemwithchemicalsbecausetheywillbehealthy enough to resist insectpests and rosediseases.Leavebirds, hoverfliesandladybirdstodealwithanyaphidsthatdaretopaytherosesavisit.

Pestsarealso reducedbycompanionplanting,usingseveral species.Myrosesgrowthroughaseaofforgetme-notsandbluenigella,withspiresoffoxgloves,salvia, Jacob’s ladder and exotic opium poppies. Prune roses by early spring,deadhead after the early summer flowers have died andwater in dryweather.Then you will have themost beautiful flowers, with perfect petals to flavourexcitingfood.

QUAILWITHROSEPETALSAUCEAfter less than three hours flying fromLondon toMorocco, Iwas amazed toarrive inacountrywithacompletelydifferentculture,architectureandfood. Ilovedtheroseseverywhere–ingardens,scatteredinbathsandfountains–and,ofcourse,infood.RosePetalJamispopularinsauces,forricepuddingandinicecream.


4bonedquail,cutdownthemiddleofthebackbonewithscissorsandflattenedoutboiledrice,mixedsaladandafewfreshrosepetals,toserveGARLICANDROSEWATERMARINADE1garlicclove,crushed

1tspgroundcumin

½tspgroundcinnamon

1tbsplemonjuice

2tbsprosewateror4tbsplemonjuiceseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperROSEPETALSAUCE4tbspRosePetalJam(seeright,orfromadelicatessen,TurkishorIndianshop)½tspgroundcinnamon

1tbspoliveoil

1garlicclove,crushed

Mixtogetherthemarinadeingredientsandseasonwithsaltandpepper,thenrubthemixoverthequail.Coverandleaveintherefrigeratorforatleast3hoursorovernight.

Preheat the grill/broiler.Grill/broil the quail for about 5minutes on each side

untilbrownedandcookedthrough.Testbypiercingwithaskewertocheckthatthejuicesrunclear.

Meanwhile,mix together thesauce ingredients inasmall saucepanovera lowheat,seasonandwarmthrough,stirringgently.Servethegrilled/broiledquailonabedofboiledricewithacrispsalad,allscatteredwithfreshrosepetals,andthesaucealongside.

ROSEPETALJAMThe Apothecary’s Rose, Rosa gallica officinalis, Rosa mundi and TuscanySuperbareperfectforthisrecipe,butuseanyscentedroses.Thejamkeepsforupto12months.

Preparation:20minsCooking:25minsMakesabout4x400g/14ozjars400g/14ozrosepetals,preferablydarkpinkorred,chopped400g/14oz/2cupscaster/superfinesugarjuiceof2lemons2tbsprosewater(optional)Putthepetalsinasaucepanwith600ml/20floz/2½cupsofwater,bringtotheboilandsimmerforabout10minutes,oruntiltender.Addthesugarandlemonjuiceandcookfor10minutesuntilthesyrupthickens.Itshouldnowhaveastrongrosetaste,butifnot,addalittlerosewater.Pourintowarm,sterilizedjars(seepage166),cool,thenstoreinacool,darkplace.

ROSEGARDENSALADNothing looks more attractive on the plate than this garden salad made withsalad herbs, many different edible flowers and fragrant rose petals. All theingredientsareapleasuretogrow,topick,toarrangeinalargedishandthen,ofcourse,toeat.Becauseourgranddaughtersbeganhelpingmegrowannualherbsand edible flowers when they were very young, they cannot resist gettinginvolvedinmakingthissalad.Andtheymakeitaworkofart.Serveitasasidesaladoralightlunchwithbruschetta.


4largehandfulsofmixedgardenleaves,suchassorrel,purslane,rocket/arugula,redmustard,mizuna,Greekcress,goldenmustard1largehandfulofedibleflowers,suchasborage,chicory/Belgianendive,violas,pinks,nasturtiums,rocket/arugulaflowersandmanyotherherbflowers1largehandfulofdeeppinkorcrimsonscentedrosepetalsjuiceof1lemonoliveoil,fordrizzlingseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

BRUSCHETTA(OPTIONAL)4slicesofgoodbread,suchassourdough

1garlicclove

HERBICESIce creams and sorbets flavoured with herbs are a cool andwonderfulwaytoendameal.Ihavebeeninspiredbythehugerange of recipes from the Victorian writer and cook, MrsIsabellaBeeton.Ihavesixcoloureddrawingsofsophisticatedfood fromher bookson thewalls ofmykitchen.And I haveseveral of her old books, including the enormous Book ofHouseholdManagement.Shelovedrecipesforsorbetsandicecreams.Onebook,ColdSweets,publishedin1925,hasover60different icedrecipesaswellaspicturesof icesanddrawingsofcomplicatedmouldsusedforfreezingthecreations.

IhavedevisedmanyicedrecipesovertheyearsbutIamparticularlydelightedwithmyBayIceCreamandSorrelIceCream.Homemadeiceshaveapurityofflavour as they aremade from fresh ingredients. I like ice cream smooth andrich,soIuseeggyolks,sugaranddouble/heavycream,infusingthehotmixturewithherbsforflavour.

Butmakingsorbetsandicecreamsbyhandcanbehardworkandsometimesabithit andmiss.Unlessyouwant towhisk themwitha forkorelectricbeaterfrom time to time as they freeze, you’ll need amachine. The cheap, compactversionIhaveusedforover20years,ismadeupofaninsulatedbowlthatneedstobefrozenfor24hoursbeforemakingtherecipe.Or,fortentimestheprice,youcanbuylargemachinesthatmakeanicecreamorsorbetat thetouchofabutton.Onemodelevenplaystheicecreamvanjingletotellyoutheicecreamisready!

My recipes using double/heavy cream and egg yolks are not as healthy asmakingicecreamwiththickyogurt,buttheyaredeliciousandtheywork.Ifyoumakeicecreamswithhalf-fatmilkorsorbetswithtoomuchwatertheycanturnoutsolidorcrystalline.Amachinemakes iteasier toachievean iceofperfect

consistencyandtotimeitforservingtowardstheendofthemeal.Tomakeicecreambyhand,put themixture inaplastic tubandremove it fromthefreezereveryfewhours,breakinguptheicecrystalswithafork.Dothis threeorfourtimesduringfreezing.

Ifyouarestoringhomemadeicecreaminthefreezer,takeitouttosoftenintherefrigeratorabout25minutesbeforeyouplantoserveit.

BASICICECREAMStartingwithabasicicecreamcustard,youaddfavouriteherbsforflavourmuchlikeyoucanaddavanillapod/bean toa recipe.The three Idescribehereareveryspecialtome.Butotherherbslikelavenderandthymeworkwell,too.Itisworthexperimenting.

Preparation:10mins,pluscoolingandfreezingCooking:20minsIcecreamsandsorbetsallserve4–6

500ml/17floz/generous2cupsdouble/heavycream

5eggyolks

100g/3½oz/½cupcaster/superfinesugarGentlyheatthecreamtojustboilingpoint.Takeofftheheatimmediatelyandleavetocool.

Ina largebowl,beat theyolksandsugar together.Pour thecooledcream intothismixture, beating all the time.Transfer themixture to a saucepanandheatvery gently until the mixture thickens, stirring all the time for at least 10minutes. Take care not to overheat because you could end upwith somethinglookingmorelikescrambledeggthansmoothcustard.Coolandstoreuntilyouwanttomaketheicecreameitherwithamachineorinthefreezer,asdescribedopposite.

BAYICECREAMAddingbaylendstheicecreamasubtle,clove-scentedandspicyflavour–anditcanalsobeusedasthebaseformyBay-InfusedCrèmeBrulée(seepage182).

1recipequantityBasicIceCream(seeopposite)

5freshbayleaves

Heatthecreamasinthebasicrecipe,adding5bayleavestothepan.Allowthecream to cool and leave to infuse for a few hours. Sieve out the leaves andcontinuewiththerecipeasdescribed.

ROSEPETALICECREAMDeeppinkflowersaregoodforflavour.

6large,scentedroses1recipequantityBasicIceCream(seeopposite)1–3tbsprosewater,ifneeded

Removethepetalsandrinse.Trimoffthebitterwhitepartat thebaseofsomerose petals. Put the petals in a pan with the cream and heat as per the basicrecipe.Allowthecreamtocoolandleavetoinfuseforafewhours.Sieveoutthepetals and continue with the recipe, adding rosewater for extra flavour, ifnecessary.

SORRELICECREAMThis unusual ice cream has a refreshing, lemony flavour and a bright greencolourifblended.Usingthecitric(orascorbic)acidstopsthenormaloxidizationthatwouldmakethesorrelgobrown,soitkeepsitsgreencolour.

1recipequantityBasicIceCream(seeopposite)ahandfulofsorrel(about80g/2¾oz)6g/¼oz/heaped1tspcitricacid

Makethecustardbaseandleavetocool.Meanwhile,washthesorrel,spinitdry,remove thestalksandchopfinely.Mix theuncookedsorreland thecitricacidinto the cooledcustard,blendwell in a foodprocessor if youwant thatbrightgreencolour,thencontinuewiththerecipe.

SORBETSScentingasorbetwithherbsmaysoundodd,butitproducesanexoticandpuretaste that is totally refreshing.Many flavours can be added, including thyme,mint, lavender, sweet cicely, rose petals, pineapple or blackcurrant sage,

calamintorthelemonverbenahere.Youcanadaptthebasicsorbetbaseforanyherbsyoulike.

LEMONVERBENASORBETThisisagreatrecipetomakewhenyouarepruningyourownplantoryouareabletobegabranchfromafriend.

140g/5ozcaster/scant¾cupsuperfinesugar

80lemonverbenaleaves

250ml/9floz/generous1cupdrywhitewinejuiceof½lemon

Dissolvethesugarin500ml/17floz/generous2cupsofwaterandboilhardfor8minutes to make a syrup. Add the lemon verbena leaves and 250ml/9floz/generous1cupmorewaterandbringslowlytotheboil.Takeofftheheatandadd the wine. Cover and cool overnight. Sieve out the leaves, add the lemonjuice and make it into a sorbet using a machine or the freezer method (seeopposite).

SAVORYSavoryisaboldandtastyherb.Anditisveryprominentinmygarden, providing about 6m/20ft of neat, low hedges of theperennial winter savory around my formal herb beds. I alsohaveareasinthebedsforannualsummersavouryandclumpsof the perennial creeping savory with its attractive whiteflowers.Sosavorydoesdominatebothmyherbgardenandmykitchen.

AyoungGerman friendwhowas stayingwithus recentlywantedavery longand detailed tour of my herb collection because he is about to plant culinaryherbsbyhishomeandarchitecturalpracticeinthecountrysidenearDüsseldorf.He persisted in claiming that he did not know the three savory herbs, until I

explainedthesortofrecipesIusedtheminandheshoutedinexcitement:“Thebeanherb.Mymothergrowsit.SomanypeoplegrowitinGermany.”

Infact,theGermanwordfortheherbisbohenkraut,whichmeans“beanherb”.Itisapparentlyverypopularforhelpingtomitigatetheunpopularside-effectofeating toomanybeans.For thesame reason, it isoften included in recipes forJerusalemartichokestocopewithinevitableflatulence.

HISTORY

Savory,orSatureja, isaMediterraneanherb in thefamilyLabiatae,whichhasbeen used for thousands of years to flavour sauces and vinegars. It has areputationasanaphrodisiac.Thepassionatesatyrsaresaidtohavelivedinfieldsofsavory.Theywouldhaveagoodtimeinmyherbgarden!

COOKING

I use summer savory with our favourite vegetables – broad/fava, runner andFrenchbeans.IthasasmellwhichisamixofmintandthymeanddrieswellforusinginherbesdeProvence.Itmakesagoodherbvinegar(seepage147)andIuseitalotintomatosaucesandsalads.

Summersavoryhasamoredelicatetastethanwintersavory,whichisoneofthemostgutsyherbsIgrow.Wintersavoryhaspaler,brightgreenleaveswhicharetougher and need longer cooking, so it is ideal in stews and for usingwith avarietyofdriedbeansandlentils.ThisherbisverypopularinMaltawhereitisaddedtomanyrecipes,especiallylamb,potatoandtomatodishes.Ilikeroastingthinlyslicedpotatoesandonionsinoliveoilwithchoppedsavory.

Itisalsousedinstuffingsandformakingsausagesandsalami.Bothwinterandsummersavoryhaveagood,strongflavour,whichisusefulforanyoneonasalt-freediet.Astheyaresoaromatic,Ichopthemupforagutsysaladdressingtoaccompanyagutsydish.Thesmallflowersaretastywithsaladsleavestoo.

GROWING

I startedwith oneplant ofwinter savory, but because it is so easy to producemoreplantsfromsoft-woodcuttings,Inowhavelonghedgesoftheherb,which

lookgoodintheherbgardenallyearround.

I grow the annual summer savory from seed inmidspring, sowing it in light,well-drained soil in a sunny position. It has square, red stemswithwhorls ofsmallgreenleavesandpalelilacorwhiteflowerswhichattractbees.Thesquarestemsshowthatitisrelatedtothemintfamily.Ifyouallowittofloweritdoesaffect the flavour and if you fail to cut it back it gets far too leggy, so it isimportant to cut back the plant early in the summer, to give it time for freshgreenleavestoformbeforewinter.

Creeping savory isworthhaving in theherbgardenbecause thewhite flowersareveryattractive in latesummerand it looksgoodat thefrontofaborder. Itgrows to about 10cm/4in high andmy clumps are now at least 30cm/12in indiameter.Butthetasteisstrongandbitter,soIdonotuseitinthekitchen.

SAVORYRUNNERBEANSALADRunnerbeansareoneofmyfavouritevegetables,soIalwaysfeelsadwhentheirshortseasonends.Icouldeataplateofthemontheirown,cookedbrieflyandservedsimplywithbutterandpepper.Ialsolovethemasacoldsidedishwithagarlicandsavorydressing,orashere,withamustardandsavorydressing.


2tbspDijonmustard

2tbspwhitewinevinegar

120ml/4floz/½cupsunflowerorgroundnutoil1garlicclove,crushed

1tspfinelychoppedsavoryleaves

400g/14ozrunnerbeans,finelyslicedseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperTomakethedressing,putthemustard,vinegarand4tablespoonsofwarmwaterinablenderandmixwell.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheoiluntilitthickenstoathinmayonnaise.

Take4tablespoonsofthemustarddressingandstirinthegarlic.(Storetherestof thedressing in the refrigerator for futureuse.)Pound the savory inapestleandmortar to bring out the flavour and aroma.Add this to the dressing, thenseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.

Cook the beans for 4minutes in boilingwater, then drain and refresh in coldwater.Drainwellagain,thenstirinthedressingandserve.

BUTTERBEANANDSAVORYCAKESSavory lifts theflavourofallkindsofbean,driedorfresh.Serve thesegoldencakes with your favourite fish, meat or vegetables. To use dried beans, soakthemovernight,drain,coverwithfreshwaterandcookforabout2hoursbeforeyoustart.


1tbspoliveoil,plusextraforfrying1onion,finelychopped2garliccloves,crushedzestandjuiceof1lemon

2tspfinelychoppedsavory

90ml/3floz/6tbspdrywhitewine

2tspvegetablestockpowder

800g/1lb12ozcannedbutter/limabeans,drained2eggs,beaten100g/3½oz/2cupsbrownbreadcrumbsseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperHeattheoilinafryingpanovermediumheatandsoftentheonionfor6minutes.Addthegarlicandfryfor2minutes,thenaddthelemonzestandsavory,stirandfryfor1minute.Pourinthewine,turnuptheheatandbubbleuntilmostoftheliquidhasevaporated.Addthelemonjuice,stockpowderand90ml/3floz/6tbspwater.Thenaddthebeansandseasongenerously.

Blitz thebeansinafoodprocessorforashort timeuntilmashed,butstillwithsome texture.Divide into 4 portions and shape each one into a patty.Dip thepatties first into thebeaten egg, then into thebreadcrumbs to coat thoroughly.Heattheoilinafryingpanandfrythecakesfor3–4minutesoneachsideuntilgoldenallover.

DUCKWITHSAVORYANDELDERBERRYSAUCEWehavelotsofelderinthewilderareasofourgardenandalwayslookforwardtousing thecreamflowers forelderflower syrup.Westore this syrup tomakedrinks and to flavour recipes. Other people also pick the flowers from ourhedgerows,soweoftengivethemoursyruprecipe,too.Buttheelderberriesthatformfromtheflowersarefarlesspopular.Ido,however,liketheirearthytasteandusetheminchutney.Theyarealsogreatforthissaucetoservewithduck–eitherthebreastsashere,orawholeroastduck.Savory,withitswarm,pepperytaste, is theperfectherb in thissauce,as it isexcellentwithfattymeats. Ialsomakethesauceusingblackcurrantsinsteadofelderberries,forlambs’kidneysaswell as duck.You can usewinter or summer savory in this sauce, butwintersavory is stronger, so do not add more than suggested.When I serve lambs’kidneyswiththeblackcurrantsauce,Icook12kidneysforfourpeople.


4duckbreasts

230g/8oz/2⅓cupselderberriesorblackcurrants150ml/5floz/scant⅔cupchickenstockorstockmadefromduckgiblets55g/2oz/heaped¼cupsugar,plusextraifneeded

1tbspredcurrantjelly

1tbspveryfinelychoppedsummerorwintersavoryleaves2tbspcookingbrandyfortheelderberrysauceorCrèmedeCassisfortheblackcurrantsauceseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

To cook the duck breasts, score the fatty skin on the breasts in a criss-crosspattern.Heataheavy-basedfryingpan,puttheduckbreasts,skin-sidedown,inthepananddry-fryfor12–15minutesuntil theskinisgoldenbrown.Pouroff

the fat.Season thebreastswithsaltandpepper, turn themover in thepanandcookforacouplemoreminutesuntiltheyarecookedtoyourliking.Ipersonallyfind rare, pink duck can be tough and unpleasant, so I serveminemedium towelldone.

Meanwhile, wash the fruit and remove the stalks. Simmer in the stock for 5minutes,thenaddthesugarandredcurrantjellyandtasteforsweetness,addingalittlemore, ifnecessary.Add thesavorywith thealcohol,seasonwithsaltandpepperandsimmeruntilyouhaveagoodconsistency,smoothandthick.Tasteforsweetnessagainandadjust,ifnecessary.

Slicetheduckbreastsandservethemwiththesauce.

KIDNEYSWITHSAVORYANDMUSTARDThe strong flavour of kidneysworkswellwith this powerful, aromatic herb. Ihavealwaysenjoyed lambs’kidneyswithmustard,but Ialso like togrill/broilvealkidneysandservewithasavoryandanchovybutter.


10lambs’kidneys1tspfinelychoppedsavoryleaves2tbspoil1tbspcookingbrandy

1tbspDijonmustard

3tbsphalf-fatcrèmefraîcheorsourcreamseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperspinachoragreenvegetable,toserveCuteachkidneyinhalfandde-vein.Tossthekidneysinthesavoryandsaltandpepper.

Heat theoil ina largefryingpanandfry thekidneysfor justunder5minutes,turninghalfwaythrough,untiltheyarejuststartingtoturnfrompinktobrown.Be careful not to go beyond this point when they are at their most tender,otherwisetheycantoughenup.Addthebrandytothepan.Mixthemustardwiththecrèmefraîche,stirintothemixtureinthepanandheatthroughgently.Servewithasimplegreenvegetablelikespinach.

PORK,JUNIPERBERRIESANDSAVORYThis recipe is quick andpowerful,with the combined strong tastes of crushedjuniperberriesandsavoryleaves.Itissogoodwecannotresisteatingthiseveryfewweeks.


400g/14ozporkfillet1tbspdriedjuniperberries1tbspfinelychoppedsavoryleaves

1tbspoliveoil

120ml/4floz/½cupdrysherryseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppersautéednewpotatoesandacrispgreensalad,toserveCuttheporkfilletacrossinthinslicesandflatteneachpiecewithasteakhammer.Seasonwithsaltandaverylittlepepperbecausetheherbandjuniperberriesarealreadyapowerfulcombination.Crushthejuniperberriesinapestleandmortar,addthechoppedsavoryleavesandpoundthose,too,untilitisallwellmixed.Spreadoveronesurfaceoftheporkmedallions.

Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat.Addtheporkslices,juniper-sideup,andcookfor3minutes,thenturnthemoverandfrythesecondsideforthesametime.Addthesherrytothehotpanandletitsizzleandmixwiththeherb/juniperflavours, stirring to mix in all the juices. Serve the pork with the pan juicesdrizzledoverthetop,withnewpotatoesandacrispgreensalad.

THYMEThymeisoneofthemostusefulandcheerfulplantstohaveinagarden.Igrowitnotjustintheherbgarden,butinthegravelof the courtyard, in dry corners, inCotswold stonewalls andevenonthetopofstaddlestones.Itthrivesinallthesedifferentareasbecauseitlikesdry,poor,well-drainedsitesandasunnyposition. And I plant thyme alongside other plants whichflower at the same time in early summer, just for its looksalone.

HISTORYThymeisnowpopularinallpartsoftheworld,butitgrowsparticularlywellintheMediterraneanregion,whereyoucanseeitthrivinginthewild.TheAncientGreeks used it to make incense for their temples and the Romans, who are

thought to have brought it to the UK, used it in room purifiers. Very soon,thyme’s antiseptic properties became famous. So the herbwas used in posies,called tussie-mussies,madeupof several herbswhichwere carried aroundbyboth men and women in the hope of warding off disease. The Romans alsoappreciated the flavour of thyme, adding it to cheeses and liqueurs. In theMiddleEastitwasusedcenturiesagotobecomeavitalingredientinza’atar.ItsgutsytastealsoguaranteeditsplacewithotherherbsinbouquetgarniandherbesdeProvence.

COOKING

Itcanbedifficulttodecidewhichthymeplantstogrowforusinginthekitchenbecausethereissomuchchoicefromhundredsofdifferentspecies.ButIhaveended up with several which are attractive and good in food. My most-usedspeciesarecommon thyme,whichhasanexcellent flavour, and lemon thyme,which is added to many of my recipes from chicken and fish to summerysorbets. Ialso like thespicyorange thyme,French thymeandsomevariegatedthymes.Mytinycarawaythyme,whichisonly2.5–5cm/1–2inhigh,isthebestspecies to rub into beef before cooking. I also buy theMiddle Eastern spiceblend,za’atar,whichcombinespowderedthymewithmemorablehintsofsavoryandoregano.

WhenIcutbackthymeafterfloweringinJune,ItieitintobunchesanddrythemovertheAga.WhenIneedtheflavourofthymeinasauce,Iholdthepanunderthedriedbunch,squeezeitandtheleavesdropconvenientlyintothesauce.Itistheperfectherbforbouquetgarni,withbayandparsley,andIalsomakespicyoliveoilusingdriedchilli,bayandthyme.Asthymeisahardherb,itshouldbeaddedatthestartofthecookingprocesstoallowthedepthofflavourtodevelop.Butthesofter,youngleavesarealsogoodpressedintosoftgoats’cheeseandIusethemontomatoes,sprinkledwithblackpepperanddrizzledwitholiveoilforslowcookingintheoven.

GROWING

The main problem with thyme is that it can die during a cold, wet winter. Ialwaysadvisepeoplewithheavy,claysoiltoplantthymewithlotsofgritortoputtheplantsinpotsoflighter,well-drainingsoilandusefleecetoprotectthemduringthecoldestmonths.Thymecanalsogetleggyandugly.Thebestwayto

avoid this is to cut plants back hard after flowering. But if there is still aproblem, thyme can be dug out and replanted in a deeper hole.You can alsolayer thyme when it becomes woody, weighing down the stem to maximisecontact with the soil until it growsmore roots, which is an excellent way ofproducingmoreplants.

Onlyafewspeciescanbegrowneasilyfromseed,sothymeisbestpropagatedfrom softwood cuttings, using new growth in spring or summer. I put thecuttings in a mixture of compost and grit, perlite or sand. But I do find mycreepingthymesareeasiertodivideandoftenproduceseveralnewplantsfromoneclump,togrowingravelorincracksinthepaths.

Common thyme at 30cm/12in tall is ideal to keep clipped for edging beds. Igrowmostofmythymesatthefrontofmyformalbedsmixedwithblue,pinkandwhitehyssop.This isbecausewhen the thymehas finished flowering, thehyssopisjustcomingintobloom,whichguaranteeslotsofcolourinthegarden.

STUFFEDTHYMEANDCHEESEMUSHROOMSIt is alwaysexciting tocomeacross fieldmushroomsand fungigrowingwild.Our25thweddinganniversarypartybenefittedfromahugecollectionofthem,becausetherestaurateurAntonioCarlucciowasoneofourguests.Knownasthe“Mushroom Man”, he is a fungi expert and explored our neighbourhood,bringingbackdozensofvarieties.Hethencookedtheminhismagicalway.Butthisrecipeisoneofmyownfavouritewaystousefieldmushrooms.Itmakesafirstcoursewithapowerfulflavour,usingonelargefieldmushroomperperson,served with salad and good wholemeal or soda bread. Cheddar cheese istraditional,butIsometimesuseGruyèreorParmesan.Twomushroomsforeachguestmakesafillinglunch.


4largefieldmushrooms

1largeshallot,chopped

2tbspoliveoil

1garlicclove,finelychopped4tbspbrownbreadcrumbs

2tbspfinelychoppedthymeleaves

1egg,beatenseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

CHEESESAUCE55g/2oz/4tbspbutter55g/2oz/scant½cupplain/all-purposewhiteflour300ml/10½floz/1¼cupsmilk¼tspDijonmustard115g/4ozmature/sharpCheddarcheese,grated,plusextratosprinklePreheattheovento220°C/425°F/Gas7.Peeltheskinawayfromthemushrooms,removethestalksandchopthemfinely.Putthemushroomcaps,gill-sideup,inan

thestalksandchopthemfinely.Putthemushroomcaps,gill-sideup,inanovenproofdish.

Fry the shallots in the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat for about 10minutesuntilsoft, thenaddandsoften thegarlic.Mixin themushroomstalks,breadcrumbsandthymeandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Takeofftheheatandleave tocool slightly, thenbind themixturewith thebeatenegg,anddivide itequallyoverthemushrooms.

Tomakethecheesesauce,meltthebutterinasmallsaucepan,stir intheflourandcook,stirringcontinuously,for2minutestocookouttheflourandmakearoux.Meanwhile,bringthemilktotheboilinaseparatepan,thenwhiskintheroux and cook, stirring, until the sauce thickens. Stir in the mustard and thegratedcheeseandseasonwithsalt andpepper.Pour thecheesesauceover themushroomsandsprinkle the topswithmorecheese.Bake for20minutesuntilpipinghotandgoldenontop.

SLOW-ROASTEDCHICKENWITHLEMONANDTHYMEDecades ago, I first came across the brilliant combination of an Aga and achickenbrickinasmallfarmhousewerentedforaholiday.WhilemyLondon-basedyoungsonslovedhelpingthefarmersnextdoorandmyhusbandtrackeddownhome-grownvegetablesonsalenearby, Ihappily triedcooking theslowway.IleftachickenstuffedwithlemonandherbsinthebrickatthebottomoftheAgaalldaywhilewewentswimming.Dinnerwastenderandtasty.SobackinLondonIboughtmyownchickenbrick,whichIstilluse.Wrapachickeninlotsoffoilandcookitatalowtemperaturetogetthesameresult.

Preparation:20minsCooking:2–4hrsServes4

1smallhandfuloflemonthyme

2lemons

1largeroastingchicken,about1.8kg/4lb150ml/5floz/scant⅔cupwhitewine2tbspplain/all-purposeflour120ml/4floz/½cupchickenstock4tbspdouble/heavycreamseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperpotatoesandagreenvegetableorcrispsaladleaves,toservePreheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4ifyouwanttocookthechickenin2hours,orto160°C/315°F/Gas3,if,likeme,youwanttoleaveitinaverylowovenforhalfadayormore.IusethebottomovenofmyAga.

Chop1teaspoonofthymeleavestoaddtothesauce.Juicethelemons,thenputthe remaining thymeand the lemon shells inside the chicken, seasonwith saltandpepperandputitinthechickenbrickwiththewine.

Cookthechickenfor2hoursinamediumovenor4hoursinalowoven.Takethe chickenbrickout and test that the chicken is cookedby inserting a small,sharpknifeintothethickestpartofthethigh.Ifthejuicesrunclear,itisready.

Keepitwarmwhileyoumakethesauce.

Pourthefatoffthejuices,thenpourthejuicesintoasaucepan.Stirintheflour,whiskinthestock,choppedfreshthymeleavesandlemonjuiceandcookonthehoboveramedium-highheat.Stirwelluntileverything iscombined, thenaddthe cream and seasonwith salt and pepper to taste. It should taste strongly ofthymeandlemon.Servewithpotatoesandagreenvegetableorcrispsalad.

THYMESHORTBREADThymeaddscharacter to this simpleshortbread.Use lemon thyme ifyouhavesome.Thisrecipecanalsobemadewithyoung,finelychoppedrosemaryleavesorfreshlavenderflowerbuds.IliketoservetheshortbreadwithpannacottaandRaspberryCoulis(seepage109).

Preparation:25minsCooking:12minsMakes30–40biscuits,dependingonthesizeofthecutter55g/2oz/heaped¼cupcaster/superfinesugar


115g/4oz/½cupbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasingfinelygratedzestof2lemons175g/6oz/1¼cupsplain/all-purposeflour,plusextrafordustingTHYMETOPPING2tbspcaster/superfinesugar


Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/Gas 2 and grease a baking sheet. Beat thesugar, thyme, butter and lemon zest in a food processor until the mixture iscreamy.Putintoalargebowlandbeatintheflourtoformastiffdough.

Roll out thinly on a lightly floured surface and stamp out biscuits using anattractivecutter(Ilikeheartshapes).Transfertothepreparedbakingsheetandbakeinthemiddleoftheovenfor8–12minutesuntilgoldenaroundtheedges.Transfertoawirecoolingrack.Mixtogetherthesugarandthymeandsprinkleovertheshortbread.Servewhentheyarecoolandcrisp.

FRUITTARTSWITHHERBSApple,pearorotherfruittartscanbemadesimplybyarrangingslicedfruitonapastry base, adding a few finely chopped herbs and spooning apple jellyflavouredwith the same herb on top.No sugar is needed because the jelly isquitesweetenoughandactsasaperfectglaze.ForthisrecipeIhaveusedajellyflavouredwithlemonthymeandsprinkledmorethymeleavesoverthetop,butthisworksequallywellwithanappleand rosemary jelly, sprinkledwith freshrosemary.Anotherfavouriteistomakethetartwithredcurrantsandaddfinelychoppedfreshhyssop,whichmakessuchalovelycombination.Coverthefruitandherbwithredcurrantjellyandbakeasbelow.


1sheetofready-rolledpuffpastry

3pears,peeled,coredandsliced

2tspchoppedlemonthymeleaves

½recipequantityAppleandHerbJelly(seepage166),madewithlemonthymePreheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4andgreaseabakingsheet.

Put thepastryon thepreparedbaking sheet andcoverwith thepears, sprinklewiththethyme,thenspoonthejellyontop.Bakefor20minutes,thenservehotorcold.

HERBSUGARSANDSYRUPSHerb sugars and syrups are the unsung heroes of ice creams,sorbets,cocktails,cakes, fruitdishesandmanyotherdesserts.Theywere popular in BritainwithVictorian cooks, but sankintooblivionuntilrecently.nowwithmorepeoplebuyingandgrowingherbs,syrupsandsugarsarebeingmadeagaintoaddsweetnessandpersonalitytofoodanddrinks.

HERBSYRUPSBaysyrupenriches theflavourofpoachedpears,hyssopcomplementspeachesand strawberries, and lemon verbena or sweet cicely syrups are perfect withmelon.Pannacottabecomesmemorablewhenitismadewithlavenderorthymesyrups.You’llseehowmycakerecipes–RoseCake(seepage109)andAppleandRosemaryCake(seepage213)–areimprovedbysoakinginherbsyrups.IoncehadsomeearlyEnglishstrawberrieswhichwerenotripeenoughtohaveafullflavour.SoIservedtheminindividualbowlswithapannacottaandaFrenchmadeleinesoakedinrosemarysyrup.Theexperimentwasagreatsuccess.Ifyouaremakingherbsyrupsitcansavetimetostartwithsomestocksyrup.

STOCKSYRUPFORHERBS225g/8oz/heaped1cupsugar300ml/10½floz/1¼cupswater

Dissolvethesugarinthewateroveralowheatandthenbringtotheboilfor2minutes.Allowtocool.Thiswillkeepintherefrigeratorforatleastoneweek.

Makesabout400ml/14floz/1¾cupsMINTSYRUPBoil4sprigsoffreshmintwith400ml/14floz/1¾cupsofsyrupfor5minutes,then strain. I use apple, pineapple, spearmint or Bowles’s mint for the bestflavours.

LAVENDERSYRUPMakethissyrupwhenthelavenderflowersare inbudanduse1 tablespoonoflavenderbudsto400ml/14floz/1¾cupsofsyrup.Boilupandstrain,asabove.

SCENTEDGERANIUMSYRUPUsefourleavesto400ml/14floz/1¾cupsofsyrupandprepareasabove.Attarof Roses ismymost useful culinary geraniumwith its rose-scented leaves. Itwon theRHSAward ofMerit,whichwill not surprise youwhen you rub theleaves and enjoy thewonderful aroma.There are other geraniumswhich haveleaveswithpineapple,lemon,cedar,nutmegorfloralscents.

LOVAGESYRUPUse a small handful of lovage leaves to 400ml/ 14fl oz/1¾cups of syrup andprepareasabove.Thiscanbeusedasthebasisofagincocktail(seepage132).

HERBSUGARSSugarsareeasytomakewhenherbsareattheirfreshest.Andtheyareasimplemethod of adding subtle herb flavours to many recipes, including sorbets,biscuitsandcream-basedpuddings.Fillanattractivejarwith450g/1lb/2¼cupsof sugarwith 115g/4oz herb tucked in. In about 2weeks, the flavourwill besuckedup into the sugar.But I leave theherbs in the sugars for up to a year,when they are usually used up, and my herbs are again at their freshest formakingmore.

Ihavefoundthatlavenderbudsandsmallherbleavesmixuptoomuchwiththesugar,andneedsievingoutbeforeusingthescentedsugar.SoInowwraptheminmuslin/cheeseclothbeforeaddingtothejar.Tryscentedgeraniumleaves,rosepetals, rosemary, thyme, bay, lavender, pineapple sage, lemon verbena orcalamint.

Use 3 bay leaves or 115g/4oz of lavender buds, chopped rosemary or scentedgeraniumin450g/1lb/2¼cupsofsugar.Leaveforatleast2weeks.

Youcangetaninstantresultbypoundingherbswithsugarinapestleandmortaruntil theherbleavesdisintegrate tocolourandflavour thesugar(seepage152forpineapplesagesugar).Tomakelemonverbenasugar,pound3tablespoonsoffinely chopped young leaveswith the same amount of sugar until you have afine,palegreenmixture.Useherbsugarsmadeinthiswayquicklyastheflavoursoon fades.Youcanusecaster/superfineorgranulated sugar,whiteorgolden.Sugarcubes/lumpsareparticularlyeffectiveinmakingherbsugarsthisway.

[WHYNOTTRY...]

+Usingherbsyrupsasacordialwithicecubesandsoda+Makingspongecakeswithscentedgeraniumsugar+AddingrosemarysyruptocrèmebrûléeoricecreamrecipesGRIDDLEDPINEAPPLEWITHCHILLIANDROSEMARYSYRUP

Thislooksinvitingontheplateandtastesexoticwithitsthreepowerfulflavours

ofpineapple,chilliandrosemary.

Preparation:10minsCook:15mins,pluschillingServes4

280g/10oz/scant1½cupscaster/superfinesugar1lime,thinlysliced1redchilli,deseededandchopped4tbspchoppedrosemaryleaves

1largepineapple

Makethesyrupfirstbydissolvingthesugarin500ml/17floz/generous2cupswater,thenturnuptheheatandboilthesugarsyrupfor2minutes.Addthelime,chilliandrosemary,bringbacktotheboilandcookforanother5minutes.Peeland slice the pineapple and cook in a hot griddle pan, hot enough to create acrisscrosspatternonboth sidesof thepineapple slices.Put ina large, shallowdish andpourover the syrup.Leaveovernight to allow the flavours to infuse.Servechilled.

LOVAGEANDGINFIZZI like to sip this exciting combination in the garden on a perfect summerevening. If you plan ahead you canmake ice cubes with a small lovage leaffrozeninsideeachone.Youcanalsomakealovageginandtonicbymaceratingginwithbruisedlovageleavesfor2days.

Preparation:5mins

FOREACHCOCKTAIL2tbspLovageSyrup(seepage130)3tbspgin

1tbsplemonorlimejuice

125ml/4floz/½cupsodawater,toserveicecubesandalovageleaf,toserveShakethesyrup,ginandjuicetogetherinacocktailshaker.Sieveintoaglassovericeandtopupwithsodawater.

AUTUMN

AUTUMNHERBSInearlyautumn,myherbgardenisstillfullofflowersandtheinsects that love them. I have marjoram, oregano, calamint,anise,hyssopandthevibrantnasturtiumsandpotmarigoldsinbloom. Herbs should play a part in herbaceous borders too,becausesomanyothergardenplantshavefinishedflowering.When the herbs eventually have to be harvested, I dry the

flowers for pot pourri and dry leaves of mint, lemon balm,thymeandoreganotobestoredinairtightjarsforcookingandfor making herb teas. The seeds of chervil, sorrel, lovage,sweetcicely,fennel,dillandhyssoparesavedanddried.Someare used in cooking and all are sown in autumn or spring toproducemoreherbs.Ialsosavetheseedsofsaladherbstosowinthespring.

ByearlyautumnIhaveclippedthelavenderanddrieditsflowerstems.Ialsocutbackthelonghedgesofwintersavoryandwallgermander,keepingsomeoftheclippingstotakehardwoodcuttings.Ialsotakecuttingsfromrosemary,thyme,tarragonandlavender.

Totakesuccessfulcuttings,fillapotwithwell-drainingcuttingcompost,madebymixingsandwithpottingcompost.Firmthecompostjustbelowtherimandwaterwell.Donotovercrowdthepotwithcuttingsandkeeptoonetypeofherb,astheyvaryinhowlongtheytaketoformroots.

Choose sturdy non-flowering shoots with plenty of leaves. Use a very sharpknife and cut the base of the stem just below a node, leaving a shoot of 10–13cm/4–5in.Removetheleavesatthebottomofthestem,leavingatleasttwoleavesatthetopwhichareneededtofeedtheplantasitproducesroots.

Makeaholeinthecompostwithapencilordibberanddipthesteminhormonerootingpowderbeforeputtingitinthehole.Iputthecuttingsaroundtheedgeofthepot,makingsuretheleavesdonottouchthecompostasthiscancausefungalinfections; the rooting powder helps prevent this because it contains planthormonesandfungicide.Terracottapotsaremoresuccessfulthanplasticpotsinmyexperience.

Labelanddateandputthepotinapropagator,orcoverwithaplasticbagwhichiskeptfromtouchingtheleavesbyusingasimplehooporframe.Keepoutofthe hot sun. Only water from below and do it in the mornings, not at night.Checkfor rootsafter threeor fourweeksbygiving thestemagentle tug. If itresists,youcancelebratethecreationofanewherbplant.

Beforethefirstfrosts,Itakethehalf-hardyherbs–likethescentedgeraniums,pineapple,tangerineandblackcurrantsages,lemonverbenaandtricoloursage–intothegreenhouseintheirpots.Ialsoputtarragon,mintandchivesinpotstooverwinterinthegreenhouse,sotheyarereadyforthekitchenbeforethesameherbsgrowinginthegarden.

I harvest basil and other herbs that will disappear underground in the winter.Theseareusedtomakepesto,tapenades,herbbutters,saucesandsoups.Othersgoinchutneysandspicedfruits,herboils,vinegarsandherbandapple jellies.This is the season when I harvest orchard fruits and autumn vegetables, likecourgettes/zucchiniandpumpkins,tocookwithavarietyofherbs.

The salad herbs I planted for winter use and the clumps of herbs, like garlicchives,marjoramandlovage,willneed thinning.ThenafterafinalweedIusemy own compost on the beds, except in the areaswhereMediterranean herbslikethymeandhyssopthriveinpoor,free-drainingsoil.Inearlyautumn,Isowmore chervil and coriander/ cilantro seeds. The chervil likes shady areas, so Iplantitalongthenorthwallwheremymintsthrive.

Collectseedsonadrydayandstoreinpaperbagsorlargeoldenvelopesinadryplace.Withseedheadslikelovageandfennel,hangthemupsidedowninapaperbagtiedlightlyaroundtheseedheads,sothattheseedsdryandfallintothebag.Seedswillnormallybereadywithinthreeweeks.Whenyouharvestyourherbslikeoregano todry forwinteruse,donot forget toharvest softherbs too.Butdelicateherbslikedill,chivesandtarragonwillhavetobefrozeninwateroroilinicecubetrays.

In late autumn, tidy up the herb area, removing dried up annuals like borage,coriander/cilantroordill,savingseedstodryandre-use.Autumnisthetimetosowlovage,angelica,chamomileandfennelseedsoutside.Ileaveseedheadsonherbslikegarlicchivesandagastache.Theylookattractiveandfincheslovetheseedsforlunch.

In themeantime,we lunchon autumnherbs likeparsley, sage, sorrel, chervil,fennel,hyssopandmarjoram.Allthehardherbslikebay,rosemary,savoryandthymearealsobeingusedconstantlyinthekitchen.Withalarge,mixedorcharditisaverybusytime,makingseveraldifferentherbjellies,spicedpears,plumsanddamsonsandmanydifferentconserves(seepages166–7).

It is timetodealwiththeunrulymint,whichinevitablyhasinvadedherbbedsand threatened less thuggish species. The real rogues are Bowles’s mint,spearmintandMoroccanmint.Theyhavetobedugup,rootcuttingstakenandmanynewmintplantsproduced.Afterproblemswiththemintheherbgarden,Iput these three thugs in a largemetal farmdrinking troughanddivided it intothreewithmetalsheets.Theyeachhadtheirownarea,whichtheykepttoforacoupleofyears.Thenoneof them tookover thewhole trough,provingwhichmintisthebiggestbullyofall.ItwasBowles’smint,whichironicallyhasaverysubtletasteinmintteaandmintsauce.

[AUTUMNACTIONLIST]

+Cutbackonwateringherbsgrownincontainers.+Protectplantslikebayandmyrtlesinoutsidecontainerswithfleeceorhessianand,ifpossible,movethemtoasouth-facingwallforthewinter.

+Sowparsleyseedinsidewithheat.+Takerootcutingsoftarragon.+Divideherbslikemarjoram,oregano,lovage,sorrel,chives,lemonbalmandbergamot.

PARSLEYParsley is definitely the most widely used herb around theworld.Buttoomanycooksuseitautomaticallydayafterday,findingitusefulbutnotalwaysinspiring.It isoftenusedasafinishing touch to food, as theworst kindof decoration,withnolinktothedishlyingbeneathitschoppedleaves.Thisisanunkind fate for a herb with an interesting, aromatic flavour,whichisanintegralingredientinmanydeliciousinternationaldishes

HISTORYParsleyisnativetotheMediterranean,butsoonspreadtotherestofEuropeandgradually to most parts of the world. Parsley is a merger of the Old English

petersilie and theOld Frenchperesil, both derived frommedieval Latin. Thisherb was once associated with death and in Ancient Greece it was used todecorate tombs. TheAncient Romans had a different idea. They not only ateparsley in vast quantities but they made it into garlands for their guests, todiscouragedrunkennessandalsotodeterunpleasantlystrongsmells.

COOKING

EveryyearIgrowflatleaf,curlyandpar-celparsley,butoccasionallyIalsotryHamburgparsley,whichisgrownforitsrootand,unlikeotherparsley,isnotaleafcropatall.Thebestparsleyfortasteisflatleafparsley,whichisusedinvastquantities inMiddle Eastern andAsian recipes. That iswhy huge bunches offlatleafparsleyareonsaleatIndianshopsandinareasofmostcitieswherethereare a lot of Turkish, Lebanese, Algerian, Moroccan or Tunisian restaurants.ItalianandGreekrecipesincludealotofflatleafparsley,too.

I use it in sauces like Sauce Verte, Salsa Verdi, Chimichurri Sauce and myfavourite for servingwithOssoBuco –Gremolata. They are all described onpages142–3.Parsleyisexcellentinsaucesservedwithfishandseafood.ManyMiddleEastern recipes demand flatleaf parsley chopped finelywithmint, liketheTabboulehrecipeonpage60.ItisarelieftomethatIhaveitgrowingintheherbgardenthroughouttheyear.

Curlyparsley isoften servedchopped finelyonpotatoesandothervegetables,butwhenIhavealot,ImakeClassicPesto(seepage35)andonionandparsleysoup.Another herb I grow is called par-cel or leaf celery. It looks like large,toughparsleyandcangrowto30cm/12intall.Thetaste isamixofceleryandparsleyandIalwaysuseitincookeddishesbecauseofitsslighttoughness.

GROWING

Growingparsleyissaidtobedifficultandtherearelotsofmyths,includingthebeliefthatyouwouldgetthebestcropsifyouplantedonGoodFridayandthatifyouhad successwithparsley inyourgardenyouwereprobablyawitch,or atleastabossywife.

I ignore all of this andmake three sowings ayear. I plant seeds inside in latewinter to give me a head start on plants grown in the garden. When they

germinate,whichtakessometime,Ipotthemonandsoonplantthemoutsideintheherbgardenabout13cm/5inapart. It ispossible toput threeseedlings intoone pot and then grow them together as one bushy plant. I also sow seedsdirectlyintothegroundinspringandthenlaterinearlysummer,forplantsthatwillgrowthroughthewinter.

Parsley likes tobeplanteddeep intomoist, fertile soil. It ishappy inpotsandwindowboxes ifyoukeep itwellwatered.Youcanalsouse it, as Ido, as anedging to beds of herbs or flowers. It is a hardy biennial,which survives badfrosts. In late spring parsley can bolt if it gets too dry. Itwill help to removefloweringstemsandwatertheplantswell.Thiswillextendtheperiodwhenyouwillhaveharvestableleaves.

Once parsley flowers become seed heads, the plants are coming to the end oftheiruseful lifeand therewillbe few leavesavailable.Butyouwillhavenewplants growing inside if you follow my plan of sowing three times a year;parsleythatshouldbereadytoputoutinthegarden.Parsleythrivesinasunny,moistposition,althoughitdoestoleratelightsummershade.

OSSOBUCOWITHGREMOLATAOssobucoisItalianfor“bonewithahole”,becausetheslicesofvealshinusedhaveaholeinthebonefilledwithdeliciousbonemarrow.Wecelebratedouryoungerson’sengagementbyhavingdinneratStJohninLondon,whichspecializesinusingeverypartoftheanimalandservesbonemarrowwithparsleysaladasafirstcourse.ButIwasshockedwhenoursonannouncedhewastryingbonemarrowforthefirsttimeever“becausethedoctorsharvestedsomuchofmyownbonemarrowwhenIwasbeingtreatedforleukaemia”.Areactiontypicalofhisexcellent,thoughunusual,senseofhumour.Preparation:45minsCooking:2–3hrsServes4

75g/2½oz/scant½cupplain/all-purposeflour4piecesofvealshin(orporkorbeef),ideally5cm/2inthick55g/2oz/¼cupbutter1onion,finelychopped2celerystalks,finelychopped1largegarlicclove,finelychopped

3saltedanchovies

180ml/6floz/¾cupdrywhitewine180ml/6floz/¾cupvegetablestock600g/1lb

5oztomatoes,skinned,deseededandchopped(seepage24),about250g/9ozpreparedweightseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1recipequantityGremolata(seepage142),toservegratedParmesancheese,toserveRISOTTOALLAMILANESE1recipequantityBasicRisotto(seepage184)½tspsaffronstrands

Preheat theovento180°C/350°F/Gas4.Seasontheflourwithsaltandpepper,then coat themeat in the flour. Heat the butter in a heavy-based, flameproofcasseroledishlargeenoughforthepiecesofmeattofitinonelayer.Brownandseal themeat on both sides. Remove and, using the same pan, gently fry theonionandceleryforabout10minutesuntiltheysoften,thenaddthegarlicandanchovies. Stir until the anchovies have melted. Add the wine, stock andtomatoes. Bring to the boil and simmer until the sauce has reduced to leaveenoughtocoverthemeatwhenthepiecesareputbackintothepan.Theyshouldbecarefullyplacedsothatthemarrowcannotfalloutduringcooking.

Coverwithbakingparchmentand then the lid.Cook in theoven forat least2hours, until the meat is tender and the sauce has thickened, checking on itoccasionally.Itcanbeleftinaverylowovenwhenithasfinishedcooking.

When themeat is almost ready,make the risotto following the instructionsonpage 184, adding the saffronwith the stock and continuing until the risotto iscreamy.SpreadeachpieceofossobucowiththegremolatabeforeservingwiththerisottoallaMilaneseandextraParmesancheese.

SALSAVERDEThisparsleysauceissoversatile,itcanbeservedwithmeat,fish,poultry,pasta,goats’cheeseandcookedvegetables.Itisgoodtohavearoundtoliftrecipesandwillkeepinajarintherefrigeratorforseveraldays.Thisisthebasicrecipebutyoucanaddachoppedchilliifyouwantaspicysalsa.Andtherearedozensofdifferentsalsasthatworkwell.Trymango,chilliandcoriander/cilantro,orredonion,tomatoandchives.Makethisrecipefirstandthenexperiment.


1largehandfulofflatleafparsley,leavespickedandchopped2garliccloves,crushed

1tbspDijonmustard

6anchovies,rinsed(optional)2tbspcapers,drainedandrinsedgratedzestandjuiceof1lemon150ml/5floz/scant⅔cupoliveoilseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperThissalsaistraditionallymadeinapestleandmortarbutInormallyputalltheingredientsapartfromthelemonjuiceandoilintoafoodprocessorforabout5minutesuntiltheyarewellblended.Then,withthemotorrunning,pourintheoilslowlyuntilthemixturethickenstobecomeanattractivegreenpurée.Ipepitupwiththelemonjuiceandfinallyseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

SAUCEVERTEThisparsley-based sauce is traditionally servedwithcold salmonbut it is alsogoodwith other fish and vegetables. It is basically a green herbmayonnaise.Makeyour ownmayonnaise using the recipe forChiveMayonnaise (see page32)oruseagoodqualityshop-boughtone.


100g/3½ozfresh,youngspinachleaves40g/1½ozflatleafparsley,leavespicked4tbspchoppedtarragonleaves(optional)150ml/5floz/scant⅔cupmayonnaisejuiceofabout½lemonseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperRinsethespinachandparsleyleaves,andthetarragonleaves,ifusing,thenputtheminalargesaucepanwithjustthewaterclingingtotheleaves.Placeoveramediumheatandleavetowiltfor2–3minutes.Rinseincoldwateragaintokeepthefresh,greencolourandthensqueezeoutanymoistureusingawoodenspoonandasieve.Thisisveryimportant.

Puttheleavesintoafoodprocessorwiththemayonnaise.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandblenduntilyouhaveasmooth,greensauce.Addlemonjuicetotaste.

HERBOILSANDVINEGARSHerboilsandvinegarsareanattractivewayofpreservingtheflavour of herbs and then using them in salad dressings,marinades,fordrizzlingoverfoodandforstirfrydishes.Istorebott les in my larder for my own use and they also makepopular presents. I collect beautiful bott les tomake oils andvinegarsin,thenlabelanddecoratewitharibbontiedaroundabunchofthefreshherb.

HERBOILS

Ilikeusingthehardherbs–bay,thyme,rosemaryandsavory–withafewdriedchillies,thenumberdependingonthesizeofthebottleofoil.ThisoilisknownasmyHotHerbOilanditisverypopularwithfriends.Theytendtosay:“Pleasecome todinner–andwouldyoumindbringingsomemoreofyourwonderfulherbandchillioil?Ohandbringyourhusband,too.”

Fill a jarwithextravirginoliveoil and thenput in four sprigsofwashedanddriedherb.youcanmakeitwithamixtureofherbs,butmakinganoilwithonlyonetypereallycapturesitstaste.Hardherbsareeasytouseandforbayuse8–10leaves. But you can alsomake herb oils with the softer herbs like basil, dill,fennel and mint. And you can use dried peppercorns in a spicy oil or makeflavouredoilsusingcoriander,fennelordillseeds.

Herboilswillkeepforuptoyearifstoredinacool,darkplace.Thereissaidtobeaveryslightriskofbotulismfromstoringherboilsforalongtime,becausethe sporesof thebacteriumwhichcausesbotulismcanbepresentonanythingthatgrowsinsoil,includingherbs.Onewaytoreduceanyriskistoavoidusinggarlic,andtostraintheoiltoremovetheherbsaftertwoweeks.Thenstorethebottleofoilinacool,darkplace.Somepeopleevenkeeptheirherboilsintherefrigerator to reduce the risk, while others believe that adding a little lemon

juice helps. But I have to say that I have beenmaking herb oils for decades,leavingintheherbsandkeepingthemdarkbutnotrefrigerator-cool.Therehasneverbeenaproblem.

BASILOIL

Thisisanexcellentwayofcapturingtheuniqueandusefulflavourofbasil.youwill need 5 tablespoons of basil leaves for 500ml/17fl oz/generous 2 cups ofoliveoil.Removetheleavesofthebasilandpoundtheminamortar.Addsomeoilandpoundagaintobruisetheleavessotheyreleasetheirownoil.Mixwiththerestoftheoil,pourintoajarandputitinasunnyspot,shakingregularlyfortwoweeks.Thenstraintheoilintoanattractivebottle,addafewfreshleavestohelpidentifytheoilandstoreinadark,coolplace.

CHIVEOIL

Chive oil can be made in the same way as basil oil, using 7 tablespoons ofsnipped chives in placeof thebasil. I have just used somedropsof chiveoil,giventomebythefoodexpertLynHall,onacleartomatosoup,whichIthenservedsprinkledwithchoppedyoungchives.

HERBVINEGARSHerbvinegars looksobeautifulandare simple tomake.Putyourchosenherbinto an attractive bottle, fill with good-quality white wine vinegar or cidervinegar and leave in a sunny place for two weeks. Then strain and put thevinegarbackintothebottlewithafreshsprigoftheherb.Storeforyourownuseorgivetoaluckyfriend.

MostherbexpertsmakevinegarsasIdo,butafewbelieveincrushingtheherbsin a pestle andmortar, boiling a little of the vinegar and pounding the herbsagaininthishotvinegar.Itisthencooledandmixedwiththerestofthevinegarandstoredfortwoweeks.Afterstrainingtheherbvinegar,theclearliquidcanbestoredinacleanjarforatleasttwoyears.

Tarragonvinegaristheclassicchoice,butinthewinterwhenmytarragonisstillundergroundImakeachervilvinegarwhichprovidesthesameaniseedflavour

and has subtle, feathery leaves which look good in the bottle. Another good-lookerischivevinegarmadewhentheherbiscomingintoflower.Afewstalkswith flowerbudscanbe tied together in thewinevinegar.Also try rosepetal,dill,fennel,lovage,mint,oregano,sage,savory,rosemary,thymeornasturtiumvinegars.

SALADBURNETVINEGAR

Imakesaladburnetvinegarinthewinter,whenthisattractive,cucumber-tastingherbis thrivingintheherbgarden.ThishasbeenpopularsinceVictoriandaysand I often make it for my herb cookery school because its leaves areexceptionallyprettyandithasamildcucumbertastethatisperfectformakingadressing forcucumbersalad.Pack the leaves intoa litrebottleofgood-qualitywhitewinevinegar.Leavefor2weeks,strainandputintoafreshjarwithtwosprigsofburnet.

ROSEPETALVINEGAR

Makeaspecialvinegarbyaddingthepetalsof6roses,1driedchilliandthezestof1lemonto500ml/17floz/generous2cupsofwhitewinevinegar.Itisreadytouseafterleavingbyawindowfor5days.

ROSEGERANIUMVINEGAR

I make a delightful vinegar with rose-scented geranium leaves mixed withraspberriesandwinevinegar.Roughlycrush6rose-scentedgeraniumleavesand400g/14oz/3 cups raspberries in a food processor. Pour over 250ml/9floz/generous 1 cup white wine vinegar and leave in the refrigerator, stirringoccasionally,for5days.Thenputthemixtureinajellybaganddripintoabowlovernight. Put the strained liquid in a saucepan, add 175g/6oz/heaped ¾ cupsugar and heat slowly until it has dissolved.Bring to the boil for 10minutes.Cool,removingallthescum.Putthecoldvinegarintobottlesandusewithinayear.

[WHYNOTTRY...]

+Makingmarinadesforfishandmeatusingherboilsandvinegarswhentheherbisoutofseason–dillandfennelforfishorchicken;oreganowithlamb;thymeforbeefandaddedtoorangejuicewithduck;rosemarywithbeeforlamb;coriander/cilantrowithgratedginger;garlicandchilliwithfishandseafood

+DrizzlingherboilontofreshlycookedpastaandfinishingwithalittleParmesanandplentyofblackpepper

+Servingsmallbowlsofherboilsandvinegarswithchunksofgoodsourdoughbreadfordipping

+Experimentingwithyourownflavourcombinations;addspiceseeds,paredanddriedcitruszest,orchillies–fromhotcayennetosmokychipotle–tothebottle

SAGEHardherbs,likesage,bay,savoryandrosemary,addshapeandinterest to thegardenandare invaluable in thekitchen, too. IamsofondofsagethatIgrowninedifferentSalviaspecies–common sage, broad-leaf, gold, purple, Tricolor, white,pineapple, tangerine and blackcurrant. But in this largeLabiatae family there are in fact over 750 species around theworld,madeupofannuals,biennialsandperennials.

HISTORYSageisnativetotheMediterraneananditsnameisderivedfromtheLatinwordsalveo,whichmeans tosave,cureorheal. Itwasusedby theAncientGreeks,

RomansandChinese for almost allmedical conditions, butbefore thedaysofrefrigerationitwasalsousedtopreserveorcuremeat.Ithelpsustodigestfattymeatslikeporkandliver,balancingtherichnessofmanydishes.ItisalsogoodincookedcheeserecipesandisfamouslyusedtoflavourSageDerbycheese.

COOKING

Although sage can be dried, it always tastesmuchbetter fresh,with its spicy,slightlybitterflavour.Myfavouritesageleavesfortastearefromcommonsage,butallofmyninedifferentsagesarewortheating.

IhaverecentlystartedtousesagetomakeStrongHerbPesto(seepage35)andsage tea, and Imakepickled apple in the autumnbyusing sage in theSpicedFruitonpage167.Sageisessentialtomanystuffingrecipes,includingonewithappleandpickledwalnuts to servewith theChristmasgooseandanotherwithapricotandcelerystuffingfor turkey.Sage isalsogooddeepfriedwithcalves’liverorcookedwithporkonabedofapple,garlicandonion.ButperhapsmyfavouriteisVealSaltimbocca(seepage156).

GROWING

As it is easy to train common sage and purple sage into attractive circularbushes, I use them tohighlight the corners ofmyherbbeds.Thevibrant blueflowersareanimportantpartofthegardenduringthesummer,whentheyareamagnetforbeesandbutterflies.Itisveryimportanttocutthembackhardafterfloweringtoencouragenew,freshleavestoformwellbeforewinter.

Ifirstgrewwhitesagefromseedandnowhaveseveralplantsintheherbgarden,which earn their keepbecause thewhite flowers are beautiful and thenarrow,greyleavescanbeusedincooking.Broad-leafsagemakesaboldstatementinthegarden,growingaroundahugepotof lemonverbena.Iwasgivenmyfirstplant as a cutting from the head gardener at Barnsley House, the famousCotswoldgardencreatedbyRosemaryVerey,theEnglishgardendesigner.Thepaleblueflowersareprettyamongstthelargegrey-greenleaves.

Tricolor sage is an attractive sagewith its leaves showing pink,white, purpleand green colouring.As it is halfhardy, I bring it into the greenhouse for thewinter.Ithasamildflavourforcooking,looksgreatontheplate,butcanonly

begrownfromcuttings.

The scented sage plants – pineapple, tangerine and blackcurrant – are alsohalfhardy.Ifyouhavespaceforthemonawindowsill,theyrepayyoubygivingoff a glorious scent of the fruit and producing useful leaves through the year.When you crush the leaves in your fingers you will be rewarded by anastonishinglystrongaroma.Allthreesagescanonlybegrownfromcuttingsandproduceattractiveflowersformanymonths.Iusethemtomakeherbteas(seepage46)andsyrups.

Takesagesoftwoodcuttingsinlatespringandearlysummer,choosinghealthynewgrowth.Largerplantswilloftenrootnaturally,makingiteasytoestablishnewplants.Whiteandcommonsage,whichcanbegrownfromseed,shouldbesownintrayswithvermiculiteinspring.Theyusuallygerminatewithinamonth.

Sageplantsenjoywarm,drysoil.Theydonotliketobecutbacklaterthanmid-summer;autumnpruningcankillaplant.Sagescanbecomewoodyafterseveralyears,sogrownewplantstoreplacethemwhennecessary.

PINEAPPLESAGEWITHAUTUMNRASPBERRIESANDMASCARPONEThisisamarvellouscombinationoftheintensepineappletasteofthesage,thedeep flavour of autumn raspberries and the creamymascarpone.You can usegranulatedsugarasIdo,butifyouhavesugarcubes/lumpsinthehousedousethem because crushing the cubes/lumps helps the pineapple sage leaves todisintegrate. When you decorate the pudding with a sprig of fresh pineapplesage, it is a bonus if the sage is in flower. Then you can add a few wholeraspberriestothetoptomatchtheredpetalsoftheherbflowers.


1handfulofpineapplesageleaves,plus4sprigstodecorate85g/3oz/scant½cupgranulatedsugar250g/9oz/heaped1cupmascarponecheese400g/14oz/3cupsautumnraspberriesChooseyoung,brightgreenleavesfromthepineapplesageandputthemintoamortarorbowlwiththesugar.Poundthesugarandherbtogetherwithapestleortheendofarollingpin.Thesagewillsoondisintegrate,turningthesugargreen.

Mix the sage sugar with the mascarpone, then gently fold in the raspberries.Divideintofourattractiveglassdishesandservewithasprigofpineapplesageontop.

BAKEDAUBERGINEWITHSAGEPESTOANDFRIEDSAGELEAVESThis is one of the easiest ways of cooking aubergine/eggplant. Its flavour islifted by the sage and the fresh tomato sauce. These vegetables used to be sobitter that itwaswise to salt them to remove the strong juices.But today thebitternesshasbeenbredoutofthem,sothereisnoneedtosaltauberginesbeingroasted or grilled/broiled, only if they are being fried. Then sprinkle on salt,leavethemtodisgorgetheirjuices,rinseandpatdry.


2largeaubergines/eggplants

4tbspoliveoil

1recipequantityStrongHerbPestomadewithsage(seepage35)1recipequantityTomatoSauce(seepage68),omittingtheoregano120ml/4floz/½cupoliveoil,forfrying

16sageleaves

2lemons,cutintowedgesseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas 7. Cut the aubergine/eggplant in halflengthways, through the stalk. Make a deep, crisscross pattern across the cutsurface with a small, sharp knife. Pour 1 tablespoon of oil onto eachaubergine/eggplant half, seasonwith salt and pepper and bake in the oven forabout25minutes.Thefleshshouldthenbesoft.

Preheatthegrill/broiler.Spreadthepestooverthescoredsurfacesofthecookedaubergines/eggplants.Grill/broiluntilit isbubbling.Meanwhile,gentlyheatupthetomatosauce.

Heat the frying oil to 180°C/350°F in a heavy-based saucepan. (If you don’thave a thermometer, carefully lower in a wooden spoon handle and the oilshouldbubblearoundit.)Theoilshouldstarttoswirlontop.Thisisthetimetodropinthesageleavesandfryforabout30secondsuntiltheyarecrisp.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowels.Servetheaubergines/eggplantswiththetomatosauce,lemonwedgesforsqueezingandthefriedsageleaves.

SAGEANDGARLICROASTPORKBELLYWITHPOWERPLUMSAUCEThisisaspicy,thicksaucethatenlivensroastporkorduckandspareribs.Itisalso good with terrines, cold meats and cheese. You can make it in advancewheneveryouhaveplentyofplumsandstoreitinsterilizedjars(seepage166)soit’sreadyforthisrecipe,orsimplyprepareitwhileyouwaitfortheporktoslowcook.

Preparation:25minsCooking:2½hrsServes4

2kg/4lb8ozporkbellyonthebone1tbspveryfinelychoppedsageleaves

4garliccloves,crushed

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperpotatoesandagreenvegetable,toservePOWERPLUMSAUCE1largesharpeating/dessertappleorcookingapple,peeled,coredandchopped350g/12ozplums,pitted

10sageleaves,finelychopped

225g/8oz/1½cupsdriedapricots185g/6½oz/scant1cupcaster/superfinesugar,plusextraifneeded150ml/5floz/scant⅔cupwhitewinevinegar

1redchilli,deseededandchopped

Preheattheovento220°C/425°F/Gas7.Pattheporkbellydrywithpapertowelsandscoretheskin.Seasonthepork,rubbingthesaltintotheskin.Makeapasteofthesageandgarlicinapestleandmortar,thenrubitoverthepork.Roasttheporkfor30minutes,thenlowertheheatto180°C/350°F/Gas4andcontinuetocookforafurther1½hours.

Meanwhile, make the sauce. Cook the apple with 6 tablespoons of water forabout 10 minutes until soft, then add all the other ingredients. Simmer untilthick. This normally takes at least 45 minutes. Taste and add more sugar, ifnecessary.

Smearabout2tablespoonsofthesauceoverthesurfaceoftheporkandcontinueroastingforafurther30minutesuntiltheskiniscrispandthemeatverytender.

Serve the pork bellywith the remaining sauce (cold or reheated, if you like),potatoesandagreenvegetable.

VEALSALTIMBOCCAThisauthenticItalianrecipeusesveal,butitcanalsobemadewithporktenderloinmedallionsforanyonewhodoesnoteatveal.However,chefsinRome,whereitoriginated,wouldnotapprove.Preparation:20minsCooking:10minsServes4

4slicesofvealescalope,about115g/4ozeach4slicesofParmaham/prosciutto8sageleaves

2tbspoliveoil

240ml/8floz/1cupMarsalafreshlygroundblackpepperspinachandnewpotatoes,toserveGrindblackpepperontothevealandwrapasliceofhamaroundeachescalope.Place2sageleavesonthetopofeachpiece,fasteningtheleavesandhaminplacewithcocktailsticks/toothpicks.

Heattheoilinalargefryingpanandfrythevealoverahighheatfor2minutesoneachside,startingwiththesage-leafside.Transferthevealtowarmservingplates.

PourtheMarsalaintothehotpanandallowittoreduceuntilitbecomessyrupy,thenpouritoverthevealandservewithspinachandnewpotatoes.

SORRELOfallthe150differentculinaryherbsIgrow,sorrelistheoneusedmostofteninmycooking.Igrowthreetypesofsorrelandalsooccasionallypickwild sorrel, knownasSourSally,withitssharp-tasting,narrow,spear-likeleaves.Commonorbroad-leaf sorrel, Rumex acetosa, edges a large bed in the herbgarden,growingtoabout30cm/12intall.Ipickitmostdaysforsoups,sauces,salads,tartsandterrines.Buckler-leafsorrel,Rumexscutatus,isalsousedregularlyin

salads.Ithasattractivesmallleaves,shapedlikeshields,whichhave a mild, lemony taste. A favourite salad is made up oftheseleavesmixedwithsmallnewpotatoes,capers,lemonzestand a mustardy salad dressing, which I serve with fish orchicken (see page 162). I also grow red-veined sorrel,whichearnsaplaceontheplatebecauseofitsglamorouslooks.Butin the taste stakes it does not compare to broad-leaf andbuckler-leafsorrels.

HISTORYSorrel isnative toAsia,NorthAmericaandEurope. Itwasfirstenjoyedasfarbackas3000bc.Romansoldierssuckedtheleaveswhentheywerethirstyandtheirdoctorsuseditfortheirpatientsasadiureticandalsotocurescurvy.

TheTudorslovedsorrelandateitregularlytooffsetrichfood.Itisnamedafterthe old French word surele, whichmeans sour. And it is still grown inmostFrenchkitchengardensandsoldintheirfoodmarkets.Intherestoftheworld,unfortunately, it can be hard to find on sale,which is the very best reason togrowyourown.

COOKING

SorrelleavesarefullofvitaminCandreallyliftamixedleafsaladbecauseoftheirlively,lemonytasteandattractiveshape.TheycontainvitaminsAandC,aswellasoxalicacid,whichprovidesthetarttaste.Ipicksmall,youngleavesofallthreetypesofsorreltoeatraw.ButIalsousethemoremature,largeleavesofbroad-leafsorrelforwrappingaroundfishandotherfood.

One special appetizer is to make parcels of white crab meat in large sorrelleaves, steam for about4minutes and serveon abedof saucemade from thebrown crabmeat, lemon juice and cream.A far simpler option is tomake anomelettewith awilted sorrel filling.Eggs and the sharpness of sorrel go verywell together. I also make quiche with chopped sorrel and strips of smokedsalmon as the base.And the Sorrel and Sweetbread Terrine on page 160 is afavourite in our household. I cook sorrel in butter to make a purée, which Ifreezeforusinglaterinsoupsandsauces.

Pickandwashsorrelleavesjustbeforeyouwanttousethembecausetheysoonbegintowilt.Largesorrelleavesareusuallyshreddedbeforecooking,usingthetechniqueenchiffonade.Thismethodofcuttinglargeherbleaves–likebroad-leafsorrel,mintorbasil–intofineshredsforsaucesorfordecoratingsaladsorotherrecipesisatraditionalculinarytechnique.Youwashtheleaves,discardthestemsandpileupseveral leaveson topofoneanother.You then roll themuptightlyuntiltheyresembleacigar.

Secure thecigarwithonehand,keepingyour fingers tucked in.Then,usingaverysharpknife,slicetherollofleavesverythinlytomakeshreds.Withsorrel,

these shredsdissolvequickly inaheatedpanandare soon incorporated intoasauce.Theyalsolookinterestingasraw,thinshreds,decoratingthefoodontheplatethatisbeingservedwithasorrelsauce.

GROWING

Allthreetypesofsorrelareperennials,whichareeasytolookafter.Icollecttheseeds in late summerwhen they have turned from green to red/brown. I sowsome seeds soon after harvesting and others in early spring. Plants should beabout30cm/12inapart.Theyarelesssucculentiftheygrowtooclosetogether.

Themostimportantthingwithsorrelistocutofftheflower/seedstemsregularlytokeeptheleavesgrowingwell.Thenyouwillalwayshavefresh, tastyleavesfor the kitchen. Sorrel is not fussy, growing in sun or partial shade, in pots,windowboxesor intheground.Myplantsareinleafformostof theyearandthemoreleavesyoupickthebetteritgrows.Itisthoughttopreferrich,acidic,dampsoil, butmine thrives inour limestonearea in light, oftendry soil – theoppositeconditions.Iwasnotafanofred-veinedsorreluntilIstartedtopickitveryyoung and small, discovering these tender, pretty leaves dohave taste aswellasgoodlooks.

SORRELANDSWEETBREADTERRINEIdiscoveredthisrecipeinJoyceMolyneux’sbook,TheCarvedAngelCookeryBook.It isfullofbrilliantdishesandherfoodattherestaurantofthatnameinDartmouthwasalwayswonderfultoo.Itcameasnosurprisewhenshebecameone of the firstwomen chefs towin aMichelin star. I once ate ameal at herrestaurantallbasedonwildfungicollectedlocallythatautumn.WhenIfirstmetSimonHopkinson,thechefbehindtheBibendumrestaurantandmanyexcellentbooks, we both realized that Joyce Molyneux was our heroine and I rashlyinvited him for dinner the following evening.Rash, because it is always hardcooking for such a talented chef and also Iwasmovinghouse the next day. Icooked him three of Joyce’s recipes, including this special terrine. Over theyearsIhavemodifiedherrecipealittle,butthisisdedicatedtoher.

Preparation:30mins,plussoakingCooking:2hrs10minsServes4

450g/1lbsweetbreads350g/12ozbellyofpork,choppedorminced/ground2handfulsofbroad-leafsorrel,leavespickedandchopped

2eggs,lightlybeaten

1tbspplain/all-purposeflourfreshlygratednutmeg3–4bayleaves115g/4ozthinstreakygreenbaconslices,rindsremovedseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperSpicedFruit(seepage167)andmixedsaladwithsorrelleaves,toservePreparethesweetbreadsbysoakingthemincoldwaterfor1–2hours.Thenbringthemtotheboilinfreshwaterandsimmerfor10minutes.Leavetocoolinthecookingwater.Whentheyarecool,drain,removeanymembranesandslicetheminto4or5sections.

Preheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4.Mixtheporkwiththesorrel,eggsandflourandseasonwithagoodgratingofnutmeg,saltandpepper.

Place3–4bayleavesdownthelengthofa1.2litre/2pint/5cupterrine.Stretchthebaconbypullingittightlyacrossthebackofaknife,thenuseittolinetheterrine, leaving about 2.5cm/1in hanging over the top.Be careful that the bayleavesdon’tmovetoomuchunder thebaconas theywillbe thedecorationontop.

Spoona layerof sorrelmix into the terrine, thena layerof slicedsweetbreadsuntiltheterrineisfull.Makesureasorrelmixlayerisonthetop.Flipoverthebacontosealinthefilling.Standtheterrineinaroastingpanhalf-filledwithhotwaterandcookintheovenfor2hoursuntilitisfirmandhasstartedtoshrinkfrom the sidesof the terrine.Allow tocool.Servewith spiced fruit and salad,preferablysmallleavesofsorrelmixedwithothersaladleaves.

SORRELANDPOTATOSALADWITHSORRELSAUCEThis combination was served to 30 guests at a special birthday celebrationrecentlyandweoftenmakeitforupto20peopleatmyherbcourses.Everyonelovesthesharpsorreltasteandthebeautyofaplateofgreenfood.Weservethesauceandsaladwithchickenorvarioustypesoffish,anditcanalsobeusedinavegetariandishbydrizzlingitoverbarbecuedsummervegetables.


175/6ozsmallnewpotatoes1handfulofsmalltendersorrel,preferablybuckler-leafsorrel,withitssmallleavesleftintactjuiceof1lemon2tbspcapers,drainedandrinsed120ml/4floz/½cupoliveoilseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppercookedchickenorfish,toserveSORRELSAUCE

2largehandfulsofbroad-leafsorrel

30g/1oz/2tbspbutter150ml/5floz/scant⅔cupdouble/heavycream

4tbspvegetablestock

3tbspdryVermouthordrywhitewineCookthepotatoesinapanofboilingwater,thendrainandleavetocool.

Preparethesorrelenchiffonade.Washtheleaves,discardthestemsandpileupseveralleavesontopofoneanother.Rollthemuptightlyuntiltheyresembleacigar, and securewithonehand,keepingyour fingers tucked in.Usingaverysharpknife,slicetherollofleavesverythinlytomakeshreds.

Tomake the sauce,melt thebutter ina saucepanovera lowheat andadd thesorreluntilitdissolvestoapurée.Addthecream,stirinthestockandthenthe

Vermouthorwine.Simmerforseveralminutes,seasontotasteandremovefromtheheat.

Just before serving, add the sorrel leaves, lemon juice, capers and oil to thepotatoes,becausesorrelcanwiltifleftinthedressingfortoolong.

Serveyourchosenchickenorfishdrizzledwiththesauceandwiththesaladontheside.

SORRELFEASTOFBABYVEGETABLESANDSTEAKWhenyour salad herbs are young and tasty, use amix of sorrelwith pepperyleaves, like rocket/arugula, Greek cress, red mustards and chicory/Belgianendive,asabaseforthisdeliciousfeastofsteakandvegetables.


2handfulsofbroad-leafsorrel

6handfulsofasaladherbmixlikerocket/arugula,redmustards,chicory/BelgianendiveandGreekcress,orabagofmixedleaves12smallnewpotatoes8spearsofasparagus

2tbspoliveoil

2beefsirloinsteaks,about175g/6ozeach6youngcourgettes/zucchini,cutinto2.5cm/1inslices55g/2ozParmesancheese,shavedseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperROSEMARYSALADDRESSING2garliccloves,crushed1tbspfinelychoppedyoungrosemaryleaveszestandjuiceof1lemon

4tbspextravirginoliveoilHORSERADISHCREAM1tbspdouble/heavycream

2tbsphorseradishsauce

Remove the thick stalks of the sorrel and tear the leaves into smaller pieces.Arrangeonalargeservingplatewiththesaladherbsandleavetooneside.

Mixtogetherall theingredientsfor thesaladdressingandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Mixtogetherthecreamandhorseradishsauce.

Cookthenewpotatoes inboilingwaterforabout15minutesuntil tender, thendrain. Once they have been cooking for 10 minutes, cook the asparagus in aseparatepanofboilingwaterforabout5minutesuntiltender,thendrain.

Meanwhile,heatagriddlepanoveramediumheat,addhalftheoil.Seasonthesteaks and cook for about 6minutes on each side. Remove from the pan andslicethinly.Addtheremainingoiltothepanandfrythecourgettes/zucchinifor5minutes,oruntilbrownedonbothsidesbutstillslightlycrisp.

Drizzlealittleofthedressingoverthesalad.Arrangethewarmvegetables,thinslicesofsteakandtheParmesanshavingsontopandservewiththehorseradishsauceandtheremainingdressingontheside.

SORRELANDSALMONFISHCAKESMost of the people I cook for regularly like fishcakes and I experiment withseveralfishandherbcombinations.ThisrecipeisafamilyfavouriteandIthinktherichnessofsalmonisimprovedbyaddingthesharp,lemontasteofthesorrel.


900g/2lbflourypotatoes750g/1lb10ozsalmonsteaks600ml/21floz/2½cupsfishstock250g/9ozsorrel,leavespickedandfinelychoppedalittleplain/all-purposeflour,fordusting

2eggs,beaten

140g/5oz/2½cupsbrownbreadcrumbs

3tbspoliveoil,forfrying

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppercrispmixedsaladherbsincludingrawsorrel,toserveCookthepotatoesinboilingwateruntiltender,whichwilltakeabout20minutes.Drainandmash.

Meanwhile,put thesalmonsteaksinasaucepan,addthestockandsimmerfor12minutes until the fish flakes easilywhen testedwith a fork.Leave to cool,thenbreakintosmallflakes.

Warm the prepared sorrel in a large pan over amedium heat for 1minute tosoften.

Mix the salmon,potatoes and sorrel together and seasonwith salt andpepper.Shape into fish cakesof the sizeyou like.Coverwith cling film/plasticwrapandchillfor20minutes.Dipeachfishcakeintoalittleflour,thenintothebeateneggsandthenpressthebreadcrumbsonwell.

Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the fish cakes over amedium heat for 5minuteseachsideuntilpipinghotthroughoutandcrisponoutside.Servewithacrispmixedsaladmadeofsaladherbs,includingrawsorrel.

HERBPRESERVESImakealotofpreserves:formyself,togiveaspresentsandtosellforcharity.Wehaveamixedorchardandalotofsoftfruit,soitisavitalwaytoconserveanyoftheharvestthatIcannotgive away! During the wintermonths we enjoy the tastes ofsummerandautumnthroughpreserves,whichgivesomethingextratoourfood.Thereareafewrulestofollow.Homemadepreservesareoftenmadewithvinegar, soare less susceptibletobacterial infections likebotulism.Butalwaysuse sterilizedjars:wash, rinse, then put upside down in an oven heated to110°C/225°F/Gas½for30minutes,andfillandsealwhilestillhot. If the jar lids are old, line them with parchment paper.Choosegood-quality,unblemishedfruitandvegetables.

APPLEANDHERBJELLYWhentheappletreesinourorchardaregroaningundertheweightoftheirfruits,Imakejarsofappleandherbjellyusingavarietyofherbs,includingmint,sage,tarragon,marjoram, lavender, rosemary, lemon thyme,scentedgeraniums, rosepetalsandalsoafewjarsspicedwithchilli,peppercornsandbay.Theapplescanbewindfalls,crabapples,cookersorsharpeatingapples.Themintjellyisgoodwith lamband Ioftenglaze themeatwith it beforecooking.The sage jelly isused in the same way with pork, while chilli jelly is particularly useful as aglaze.

Preparation:50mins,plusovernightdrainingCooking:45minsMakesabout900g/2lb

2kg/4lb8ozapples,washed,peeled,coredandquarteredjuiceof2lemonsgranulatedsugar(seemethod)2handfulsofyourchosenherb,plusextraforidentifyingthejellyinthejarCooktheapplesinthelemonjuiceand1.2litres/40floz/5cupsofwaterfor30minutesuntilreducedtoapulp.Putthepulpintoajellybagandleavetodrip

minutesuntilreducedtoapulp.Putthepulpintoajellybagandleavetodripovernight.

Measurethejuiceintoapanandadd450g/1lbsugarand2handfulsoftheherbfor each500ml/17fl oz/generous2 cups juice.Stir over a gentle heat until thesugardissolves,thenboilhardforabout10minutes.Skim,sievetoremovethecookedherbs, thenpour into the sterilized jars (see above) and add a sprig ofherbor1tbspchoppedherbtoeachjar.

POACHEDPLUMANDLEMONVERBENASAUCEThis is amarvellous lemonyplumsauce,whichcanbeusedwithpuddingsormadeintoasavoury,fruitsaucefordisheslikeporkorroastduck.

Preparation:15minsCooking:30minsMakesabout500g/1lb2oz

400g/14ozplums,pitted1largesprigoflemonverbena(about40leaves)about175g/6oz/1cupsugar,totaste(youshouldn’tneedtoaddmorethanthis)Puttheplumsinasaucepanwithatinysplashofwater–justenoughtostopthemsticking.Addthelemonverbenaandsugarandsimmertheplumsuntiltheyarebreakingdown.Thismighttakeuptoabout30minutes,dependingonhowripetheyare.Sievetoleaveasmoothsauceandtransfertoasterilizedjarwhilststillwarm.

SPICEDFRUITWITHHERBSIspiceplums,damsons,crabapples,cherries,pearsandevenapple,usinghardherbs like bay, rosemary, sage, savory or thyme. Good with pâtés, hams andcheeses.

Preparation:25minsCooking:20minsMakesabout2kg/5lb

400g/14oz/2cupssugar350ml/12floz/1½cupswhitewinevinegar5cm/2incinnamonstick,brokenintopieces

8peppercorns

8peppercorns

2.5cm/1inpieceofrootginger,sliced3reddriedchillies

4bayleaves

1largesprigofsage,savory,rosemaryorthyme1.3kg/3lbpreparedfruit

Simmer all the ingredients apart from the fruit in a heavy pan for about 10minutes, so the sugardissolvesand the flavoursdevelop.Thenput in the fruitand cookuntil tender.Thismay takeonly 2minutes for small fruits like crabapplesorupto10minutesforlargerfruitlikepears.Packintowarmsterilizedjars(seeopposite)andstoreforuptoayear.Thespicytasteincreasesovertime.

COURGETTE,ROSEMARY,GINGERANDCARDAMOMPRESERVEThis is excellent served with cheese, pâté, cold meats and grilled/broiledvegetables.

Preparation:22mins,plusovernightmaceratingCooking:20minsMakesabout2kg/5lb

1.8kg/4lbcourgettes/zucchiniormarrow900g/2lb/4½cupssugarzestandjuiceof2lemons4piecesofpreservedginger,chopped1handfulofyoungrosemaryleaves,finelychopped

12greencardamompods

Remove the seeds from the courgettes/zucchini, thenchop the flesh into smallcubesandsimmerinboilingwaterforabout3minutes.Drainwell.Mixinthesugarandleaveovernight.Thenputinapanwiththeremainingingredientsandsimmergentlyuntilthesugardissolves.Bringtotheboil,thensimmergentlyfor10–15minutes until the vegetable is translucent and the syrup thick. Store insterilizedjars(seeopposite).

[WHYNOTTRY...]

+MakingtartswithAppleandHerbJellyspreadoverslicedfruitonapuffpastrybase(seepage129)+AddingSpicedFruitwithHerbstoacheeseboardorcharcuterieplatter,orusingitasatoppingforawholemelting,bakedCamembert+UsingCourgetteandRosemaryPreserveinplaceofchutneyinasandwichorploughman’slunch+SpreadingAppleandHerbJellyonasliceofbutteredtoast

WINTER

WINTERHERBSHerbsarevitalduringthewintermonthstoadddepthtodisheslike roasted vegetables, risotto, soups and casseroles and togenerally cheer up the palate. It is amazing howmany herbswillgrowthroughthecoldestweather,eventhefinerherbslikechervil, parsley and salad burnet. It is always reassuring toknowthatwhenhardyspecies,likerosemary,sageandbay,arepicked and used in the kitchen during these winter months,they will bring life to heavier recipes with their aroma andstrongflavour.

But theseherbsarealsovital to the lookofmyherbgardenduring thewintermonths. I use various sages, with their strong shapes, to highlight paths andformalbeds.Mythymeslookgoodthroughouttheyearandthelonghedgesofclipped herbs are invaluable. I also use salad burnet, violets, sorrel, wall

germander,alpinestrawberries,primroses,flatleafandcurlyparsleysandpar-celtoedgebedsbecausetheyalllookattractiveduringthewinter.

I prune the sages after flowering, which always results in lots of new, freshgrowth.SobylateautumnIamcuttingbunchestodryandhanginthekitchen.Ilike the look and smell of themand they areusedonmiserable,wet eveningswhenIdonotfeellikeventuringouttocutfreshleaves.Ialsocutbaytohanginthekitchenforthesamereasons.Butrosemaryisalwaysusedfresh.

I cut back other herbs before the winter months, so that the fresh leaves ofchives, lemon balm, marjoram and angelica, for example, are free to pushthroughthesoilwhenwarmerweatherreturns.Thethymesarecutbackstraightafterflowering,andthenusedfortakingcuttingsanddryinginthekitchen,butIleavetheseedheadsonhyssopsothatIcancollecttheminperfectconditionforsowing in trays in the greenhouse. Every year I grow white, blue and pinkhyssopfromseed.Theyfilltheherbbedsandarenowbeingplantedinpotsandbordersforlateflowercolourinotherpartsofthegarden,too.

Thelarge,whiteseedheadsofgarlicchivesareleftontodryandlookattractivethroughout the winter. I grow them in six clumps in a circle around theApothecary’s Rose which sits in themiddle of my formal beds. After all thecuttingback,Iweedandclearthebeds,makesurethatthethymeshaveplentyofgrit around their roots to help drainage and survival, and add homemadecomposttotheherbsthatneednourishment,likelovageandsaladherbs.

In the bed where I grow these winter salad herbs – which this year includesrocket/arugula, wild rocket/ arugula, Greek cress, French sorrel, buckler-leafsorrel, red-veined sorrel,mibuna,mizuna, lamb’s lettuce/corn salad, claytonia,namenia, mustards, coriander/cilantro, endives and chicories – I get as muchcompostdownaspossibleandifthereareanyspacesIlaydownblackplastictowarmthesoilreadyforthegrowingseason.Iamnowalsohavingtonettheseherbswhenpigeonsbecomeapest,andusefleeceinthecoldestweeks.

I sowseeds in small trays tohaveparsley,dill andsaladherbsasmicro-herbsduringthewinterandalsoenjoyeatingsaladburnetwithmoretraditionalleaveslikelettuce.Themildcucumbertasteisnotstunning,buttheattractiveshapeoftheleaveslooksgreatontheplate.Butthestarherbofwintermonthsformeischervil.Itgrowshappilyandisuseddailyinmanyrecipes,oftenasasubstitutefortarragonwhenthatisstillunderground.Imakechervilsauces(seepage191),

SmokedSalmonandChervilPâté(seepage190)andwonderfulcherviltarts.Itis an excellent addition to mayonnaise served with seafood and to plainomelettes. The leaf shape is so exquisite that when I make a pâté or cheeseincluding theherb I alwaysdecorate thepotof foodwithwhole leaves spreadoutontopandpressedintothesurface.

Delicateherbslikethisarealwaysaddedattheendofcooking,unlikethehardherbswhichareput inat the startofpreparingdishes so that they infuse theirtastethoroughly.Resinous,perfumedrosemaryisgreatinPumpkin,ChorizoandRosemaryRisotto (see page 186),Apple andHerb Jelly (see page 166), roastpotatoes,whitebeansandchorizo,kebabs,withpeardishesand,ofcourse,withlamb.

Bay is used for anything from flavouring a Bolognese sauce to finishing offcomplexpâtés,liketheSorrelandSweetbreadTerrineonpage160.Alongwithoregano,bayisoneoftheclassicherbflavouringsinGreekLambKleftiko(seepage180)–aheartyroastforchillywinterdays.Italsoworksinsweetdishes.ForspecialoccasionsImakemypopularBayIceCream(seepage111)orBay-InfusedCrèmeBrûlée,oftenservedtoalargegroupwithmyPartyFruitinPort(seepage182).

[WINTERACTIONLIST]

+Sowseedsthatneedverylowtemperaturestogerminate.Includedinthosespecieswhichdependonaperiodof“stratification”,aresweetwoodruff,cowslip,violetandsweetcicely.Sowintrays,coverwithglassandleaveoutsideinthecold.

+Finishcuttingbackalltheherbs,collectinganyseedsleftonthemforsowinginthespring.Ifitisnottoocold,divideperennialherbsandgivetheplantsawaytoinspirefriendsandneighbourstostartaherbbed.

+Spreadcompostandusefleecetowarmanytenderplants.Keepthesaladherbsweedfreeandprotectfromhungrybirds.

+Whenhalf-hardyherbsinpotsaretakeninside,prunethemallandcutbackonwateringastheywillbegoingintoadormantstate.

+Cutback,dryandhangbunchesofbayandwintersavoryinthekitchen.ItielargebunchesofbayinglossyredribbontogivetofriendsatChristmaswith

largebunchesofbayinglossyredribbontogivetofriendsatChristmaswithalabelsaying“HappyChristmasBay”!Somefriendsleavethebaybunchupallyearinthekitchentoprovidedriedbayforcooking,aftertyingittotheirfrontdoorstomakeawelcomeChristmasstatement.Imakeamorecomplicatedwreathformyownfrontdoorwithbay,rosemary,driedorangeslices,redchilliesandclementines.

+Inlatewinter,Istartsomeseedsinthegreenhouse,includingbasil,parsleyandtomatoes.Begintowaterthepotsofhalf-hardyherbslikescentedgeraniumsandlemonverbenaandwatchthemstarttocometolife.Whilesnowdropsandhelleboresarelightinguptheflowerborders,tinyshootsofchivesarepushingthroughthesoil,remindingmethattheherbshibernatingunderthegroundwillsoonbeinspiringmycooking.

BAYNo cook should bewithout bay leaves.They are an essentialseasoning, like sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,enhancingadishwiththeirdeep,rich,resinousflavour,whichhasahintof lemonsandalmonds. Iuse themeveryday,so Iwas thrilled to findour small farmhadahugebay treewhenwe moved here over 20 years ago. So it is easy for me toalwayshaveasmall jugoffreshbay leavesby thecooker,aswell as a bunch of dried leaves hanging in the kitchen. Myfamily and friends all havemybaybunchesby their cookingareas,too.

HISTORYBay,Laurusnobilis,originatedinAsiaMinor,soonspreadtotheMediterraneanandisnowgrownaroundtheworld.Laurusmeanspraiseandnobilisfamous.So

theAncientRomans,whohadgreatrespectforthisherb,crownedathleteswithabaywreath toreward theirsuccess,whilepoetswerecrownedwith thesameherbtocelebratetheirwisdom.Hencethetitle–PoetLaureate.

COOKING

Whenyouareusingbay,rememberthatfreshleaveshaveastrongerflavourthandried.Thesuperbtasteisunlockedbyheat,ofteninaliquidwhensoups,stewsand stocks/broths are being prepared. But bay is just as wonderful in sweetdishes. I infusea fewfresh leaves in thehotbase for icecreamorbrûlée,or Iheatthemupwithalcoholanddriedfruitsforacelebrationcompôte.

Iusebayinterrines,marinades,conserves,milkcustards,ricepuddings,cheesesauces,béchamel,Indianrecipes,withpoachedfruit,fishandchickenaswellastomatodishes,likeItalianpastasauces.Ioftenslipbayleavesbetweencubesofmeat, vegetables or prawns/shrimp on a skewer, after soaking the skewers inwarmwater for anhouror so tomake themmore resistant toburning.As theleavesheatupunder thegrill/broileroron thebarbecue, thearomaof thebayimproves the flavour of the main ingredients. Do not worry about using toomanybayleavesinthisway,becauseyounevereatthetoughleavesthemselves,theyareusedjusttoimparttheirdeep,richflavour.

Bayisanessentialpartofbouquetgarni,usednormallywiththymeandparsleystalks,butoregano, rosemary, sageor savorycanbeadded, too.Cut theherbsyouareusing into largesprigsandeither tie togetherwithcottonstringorputtheminamuslin/cheeseclothbag,perhapswithsomepeppercorns.Tieuptightlyandusetoflavoursoupsandstews.

Ialsoaddfreshleavestojarsofriceorsugar.AndImakeaspicyherboilwithbay,driedchilliandoftenotherhardherbs.Itisleftinadarkplaceastheherbsreleasetheirflavoursintoextravirginoliveoil(seepage146).Thishasbecomeapopularpresentforfriendsbecausetheyliketodrizzleitoversaladsandotherdishes for instant oomph. Dried bay bunches are a popular gift, too. Hangbranches of fresh bay in a dark, airy place until they become brittle. Thedarkness is important to retain thegreencolourandflavourof the leaves.Youcan keep them in bunches, but the flavourwill last longer if you strip off theleavesandstoreinanairtightcontainer.

GROWING

GROWING

Apairofstandardbay trees,clipped intoperfectspheres, inpotsplacedeithersideofadoororgateareaclassicsight.Itmakesalotofsensetogrowbayincontainers because they can be positioned in a warm, sheltered place andbroughtinsideduringthecoldest,wettestmonths.Bayispronetofrostdamagebecause it is shallow rooted and the leaves can also be scorched by lowtemperatures and cold winds. But whether you want to grow bay in pots orgardenbeds,itneedsrich,welldrainedsoil,mulchedinspring.

Itakebaycuttingsinlatesummer,butsuccessratesarelow,evenusingaheatedpropagatorwithhighhumidity.Baycanalsobegrownfromseed,foundintheberries onmature plants, but these normally takemonths to germinate.So thebestidea,unlessyouareverypatient,istobuyasmallplantandenjoyusingitsleavesasyouwatchitgrowovertheyears.

GUINEAFOWLWITHBAYLENTILSANDBACONThisdishreliesalotontheflavourofbayandthelentils,whicharecookedwiththisherb.The recipe forpreparing the lentilsandotherserving ideasbasedontheseherbylentilsareontheoppositepage.

Preparation:20minsCooking:1hrServes4

2bayleaves1largeguineafowl1tbspoliveoil

4wholeunpeeledgarliccloves

175g/6ozsmokedbaconlardons/dicedthick-slicedsmokedbacon

12smallshallots

185ml/6floz/¾cupchickenstock

1tbspredcurrantjelly

175g/6oz/2cupspreparedBayLentils(seeopposite)seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPreheattheovento220°C/425°F/Gas7.Stuffthebayleavesintothecavityoftheguineafowl,rubwithoil,seasonwithsaltandpepperandplacebreast-sidedowninaroastingpan.Cookfor30minutes,thenturnthebird,puttingextrapepperonthebreastsandlegs.Addthewholegarliccloves,thebaconandthepeeledshallotstothepan.Cooktheminthejuicesaroundtheguineafowlforabout20minutesuntilthebirdiscookedthroughandnicelybrowned.

When it is ready, take the guinea fowl out of the pan and transfer to anovenproofdish.Liftouttheotheringredientswithaslottedspoonandputthemonthedishwith theguineafowl tokeepwarmin thebottomof the turned-off

oven.Addthechickenstockandredcurrantjellytothejuicesandsimmeruntilthe saucehas theconsistencyofdouble/heavycream, stirring tomix inall thecookingjuices.

Meanwhile,heatthroughthelentilsinaseparatesaucepan,thenspoonthemontothe same dish around the guinea fowl with the lardons, shallots and garlicarrangedontop.Servewiththesauceontheside.

BAYLENTILSBay-flavouredlentilsareoneofmanystandbysIliketokeepintherefrigeratorafter a marathon cooking session. The secret is to flavour well and neverovercook.Simmerthemforonly20minutes,whentheywillbecookedbutstillhaveabite.Sludgy, tasteless lentils arenotwortheatingandhaveharmed thereputationoftheseearthypulses/legumes.WehavejusthadlunchasIwritethisrecipe,madeupofbakedpeppersandmushroomsbakedwithmozzarella,servedonabedofthesemarvellousbaylentils.

Preparation:15minsCooking:25minsQuantityfor3–4recipes1largeonion,quartered2celerystalks,halved2carrots,halvedorquartered1redchilli2garliccloves

6bayleaves

500g/1lb2oz/2¾cupsPuylentils,rinsed3tbspsherryvinegar

2tbspoliveoil

Putthevegetables,chilli,garlicandbayleavesinthebottomofalargesaucepanandadd the lentils.Coverwithwater,bring to theboil,part-coverandsimmerfor 20 minutes. Drain and remove the vegetables. While the lentils are stillwarm, stir in the vinegar and oil. Thismeans the lentils absorb their flavoursbetter.

VARIATIONS

LENTILSWITHGOATS’CHEESEANDAVOCADOWhenthelentilsarestillhot,youcanwiltsorrelleavesorspinachthroughthem,addalittlelemonjuiceandservewithgoats’cheeseportionsandslicedavocado.

LENTILSWITHSMOKEDMACKEREL,BACONANDHERBS

LENTILSWITHSMOKEDMACKEREL,BACONANDHERBSMix thebay lentilswithchoppedherbs like thymeorcoriander/cilantro.Servewithcoldslicesofmackerelandwarmbaconlardons.

LENTILSWITHROASTCHICKENANDAIOLIRoastachickenandseveraltomatoes.Makeaherboilwithchervilorbasil(seepage146)andpreparesomeaiolibyaddingaveryfinelychoppedgarlicclovetoyourmayonnaise(seeChiveMayonnaiseonpage32).Onabedofwarmlentils,servethewarmchickenandtomatoes,pourovertheherboilandservewiththeaioli.

LUSCIOUSLENTILSOUPCuminisperfectinasoupmadefromlentils.IfyouhaveplentyofBayLentilsleft,addacanofchopped/crushedtomatoes,vegetableslikecarrots,courgettes/zucchini and onions and ground cumin to taste. Blitz it up with some good-qualitystock,thenwarmthroughinasaucepanbeforeserving.

ASIANLENTILSWhenyoucookthebaylentils,insteadofusingsherryvinegarandoliveoil,youcanmix themwith soy sauce and sesame oil, ready to serve themwith yourfavouriteAsianrecipesforchickenorfish.

LAMBKLEFTIKOKleftiko means stolen. Apparently lambs were taken from Greek farmers byKlephtscenturiesago,whocookedtheanimalsinpitsinthegroundtohidethesmell of cooking so they didn’t get caught. It also sealed in the flavour socookinglambkleftikoundergroundcontinuedformanyyearsbecausetheresultswere so delicious. I first tasted the dish inCyprus in 1975, the year after theTurkish invasion.My husband had been there during thewar the year before,working for the BBC. He loved the island somuch that wewent on to havemany holidays there in a house by a beach called Coral Bay, which had onerestaurant,ownedbytheCharalambousfamily.Theirkleftikowasdelicious.Itisa good recipe for feeding hoards of people so we also ate it at weddings ofmembersoflocalfamilieswegottoknow.

Preparation:30mins,plusmarinatingCooking:4–5hrsServes8

6garliccloves,chopped

3tbspdriedoregano

gratedzestandjuiceof1lemonapinchofgroundcinnamon

4tbspoliveoil

1largelegoflamb,atleast2kg/4lb8oz1kg/2lb4oznewpotatoes,halved

4bayleaves

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperGREEKSALAD½cucumber,diced3largevinetomatoes,diced¼redonion,sliced

12blackpittedKalamataolives

60g/2¼ozfetacheese,diced

60g/2¼ozfetacheese,diced

3tbspextravirginoliveoil

driedoregano,tosprinkleMINTYOGURT250g/9oz/generous1cupGreekyogurtjuiceof½lemon

1tbspoliveoil

1handfulofmint,leavespickedandchoppedCrushthegarlic,oregano,lemonzestandjuice,cinnamonandoiltomakeapaste.Makeslitsinthelambwiththetipofasharpknifeandrubinthepaste,pushingitintotheslits,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Coverwithafoodbagorclingfilm/plasticwrap,andleaveintherefrigeratortomarinateovernight.

Removethelambfromtherefrigeratoragoodhourbeforeyouwanttocookitsothatitreturnstoroomtemperature.Preheattheovento160°C/315°F/Gas2–3.

Inalargecasseroledish,putinthepotatoesandbayleaves,andplacethelambontop.Coverwithparchmentpaperandthenthelidandputintheovenforupto4hoursuntil themeat isvery tender.Takeoff the lidandpaperandbaste thelambwiththejuices.Turntheheatupto220°C/425°F/Gas7andreturnthelambtotheovenforabout30minutesuntilbrowned.

Make the Greek salad by tossing together all the ingredients. Transfer to aservingbowland sprinkleover thedriedoregano.Stir together the ingredientsforthemintyogurt.

ServethelambandpotatoeswiththemintyogurtandGreeksalad.

BAY-INFUSEDCRÈMEBRÛLÉEThis delicious dessert starts in the sameway as theBay IceCream (see page111).Youmakethebaycustardinthesamewayasyouwouldforanicecream,butinsteadoffreezing,setthecustardintheoveninstead.

Preparation:15mins,plusinfusingCooking:40minsServes4

1recipequantityBasicIceCream(seepage110)4tspcaster/superfinesugarFollowtherecipetomakebayinfusedcustard,asonpages110–11.Whenyougettothepointthecustardisreadytogointotheicecreammaker,stopandpreheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4instead.

Pourthecustardintoindividualramekins/custardcupsandputtheminaroastingpan.Pourinhotwatertocomehalf-wayupthesidesoftheramekins.Bakeuntilthemixtureisjustset,about30–40minutes.Removefromtheovenandleavetocool.

Justbeforeserving,sprinkleateaspoonofsugaronthetopofeachcustardandput them under a very hot grill/ broiler until the sugar turns deep brown andcrisp.Youcanuseablowtorchtocaramelizetheminstead,ifyouhaveone.

BAYPARTYFRUITINPORTThisisafestivedishtoservewithBayIceCream(seepage111)orBay-InfusedCrèmeBrûlée (left). It is good for a party because it can bemade ahead andstoredintherefrigeratorforthreedays,wheretheflavourimprovesbytheday.Itisespeciallygoodservedwithpreservedclementines,whichyoucanmakebypoachingclementinesfor12minutesinenoughwatertocoverwith1teaspoonground cinnamon, 3 tablespoons sugar and 2 bay leaves. Decant into warmsterilizedjars(seepage166)andpouroveramixtureofthepoachingsyrupwith1tablespooncookingbrandytoeachjar.Waitatleasttwoweeksbeforeusing.


450g/1lb/3cupsdriedfruitofyourchoice,suchasdriedapricots,driedAgenprunes,driedpearsordates

4bayleaves

gratedzestandjuiceof1orange250ml/9floz/generous1cupport50g/1¾oz/scant⅔cupflaked/slicedalmonds,toastedFirstsoakthedriedfruitinwatertoremoveanypreservatives.Rinseagaininwaterandputinapanwiththebayleavesandenoughwatertojustcover.Simmeruntilthefruitistender,whichwilltake15–20minutes.Addtheorangezestandjuiceandtheport.Coolandchill,thenkeepinarefrigeratorforatleast2daysfortheflavourstodevelop.Servesprinkledwiththetoastedalmonds.

RISOTTOThereisanItaliansayingthat“riceisborninwater,butitmustdie inwine”,which isagoodexcuse fordrinkingwinewheneatingor evencooking thisdish.Risottohasbeenpartof theItaliandietsincethe8thcenturywhenArabsintroducedricetoSicily.Sotheyshouldknow.Asthesequotesshow–“makingrisotto is likemaking love – you have to be totally involvedwith theprocess”;“whenstock is f rstadded to thedish,youwill be rewardedby a sigh”; “stir and caress it into a velvet-smoothmasterpiece” – chefs can be a little pretentious aboutthisdish.

There is a lot of disagreement about the perfect rice to use for risotto and theperfect technique.Arborio rice ispopularandeasy to find,but its largegrainsneedtobecookedcarefullyand takenoff theheat torestbefore theyarefullycooked. I like the excellent Carnaroli for important recipes, like the saffronRisottoallaMilaneseIoftenserveforspecialmeals(seepage140).Itistheleastlikely toovercookandbecomemushy.Apparently it contains a substance thathelpsthegrainstokeeptheirtextureandshape.Alwaysuseawoodenspoonandapanwitharoundedbasesotherearenocornerswherethericecanstick.

IfirsttriedtocookrisottoonasinglegasringwhenIwasastudentatDurhamUniversityinthel960s.ThiswasontheglamorousNormanGalleryinDurhamCastle,wheremyboyfriendwasluckyenoughtohaverooms.IhadnocookingskillsatallandheneverknewthatI tookoffoneofmystockingstosievethesloppy ricebefore Iadded theprawns/shrimp. Itwasadisaster,whichmaybeonereasonwhyhelikescookingrisottotoday,neverleavingthestoveashestirstowardscreamyperfection.He likes tryingnew ideas, so Iboughthimabookrecentlywhichcontains85recipes–allforrisotto!

BASICRISOTTO

Preparation:15mins,plusrestingCook:25minsServes4

llargeonion,chopped2celerystalks,finelychopped

1tbspoliveoil

50g/1¾oz/3½tbspbutter2garliccloves,finelychopped300g/10½oz/1⅔cupsrisottoriceabout300ml/10½floz/1¼cupsdrywhitewine1litre/35floz/4⅓cupshotstocktomatchrecipe50g/1¾ozParmesancheese,gratedseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperGentlyfrytheonionandceleryintheoilandhalfthebutteruntiljustbeginningtosoften,thenaddthegarlicandcookfor2minutes.Turnuptheheat,addthericeandstiruntilitbecomesopaque.Addthewineandcookforafewminutestoevaporatethealcohol.Addthestockoneladleatatime,stirringtoreleasethestarchandgiveacreamytexturebutmaintaininggrainsthatarefirmtothebite.Takeofftheheat,stirinthecheese,seasoningandremainingbutter.Coverandrestfor20–25minutes.Thisstage,mantecare,makestherisottoevenmorecreamy.

PUMPKIN,CHORIZOANDROSEMARYRISOTTOThisisagutsyrecipewithgreatcolourprovidedbythepumpkinandapowerfultastefromthecombinationofrosemaryandchorizo.

450g/1lbpumpkinorsquash,skinned,deseededandcutintosmallpieces1recipequantityBasicRisottousingvegetablestock(seepage184)100–175g/3½–6ozrawchorizo(dependingonhowstrongyoulikeit),finelychopped

2tbspfinelychoppedrosemaryleaves

Bringalargepanofwatertotheboil,addthepumpkinandcookfor5minutes,oruntiljustbeginningtosoften.Drainthoroughly.

Make the risotto, following the instructions on page 184, until the wine hasevaporated.Addthechorizoandcookfor3minutesbeforeaddingthepumpkinpieces.Stirinhalftherosemary.Continuewiththerecipe,graduallyaddingthestock,one ladleata timeandstirringconstantly, forabout15minutes.SeasonandaddtheremainingrosemaryandbutterandabouthalftheParmesan.Coverandleavetorestuntilcreamy.ServewiththeremainingParmesan.

RISIEBISIAssoonasIleftmystudentdaysbehindIdecidedtolearnhowtocook.Iwas,afterall,planningtoeatfortherestofmylifeandIwantedtoeatwell.Courseswereoutof thequestionas Ihad towork, so I cookedmyway throughallofElizabethDavid’s inspiringbooks andRisi eBisiwas the first Italian recipe Itried. I use more ham and fewer peas in my version and the parsley is animportantaddition,liftingthetastewithitsgreen,leafyfreshness.Itisbestmadewithfreshpeas,butifyouwanttoserveitthroughouttheyear,youwillhavetousefrozenmostofthetime.Mostpeopledo,asitisraretoseepeoplepoddingpeasthesedays.

1recipequantityBasicRisottousingvegetablestock(seepage184)225g/8ozuncookedgammon,finelychopped1onion,finelychopped280g/10oz/heaped2cupsfreshpoddedpeas

2tbspfinelychoppedparsleyleaves

Maketherisottofollowingtheinstructionsonpage184,fryingthegammonandadditionalonionwiththeonionandcelery.Continuewiththerecipe,graduallyaddingthestock,oneladleata time,andstirringconstantly.After10minutes,addthepeasandparsleyandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Continuetotheendof

the recipe but stir less frequently to avoid breaking up the peas.Risi e bisi ismeanttobemoreliquidthannormalrisotto,butasitshouldbeeatenwithafork,itmustnotbetoosoupy.

SEAFOODRISOTTOWITHSWEETCICELYTheingredientsforthistypicallyvenetiandishcanvarydependingonwhatyourfishmongerhasonofferandIoftenmakeitjustwithprawns/shrimpifthatisallI have in the house. But you can be extravagant and use scallops, cookedmusselsandevencookedlobsterwiththeprawns/shrimp.DonotuseParmesaninfishrecipes.

1recipequantityBasicRisotto,usingfishstock(seepage184)andomittingtheParmesan300g/10½oztomatoes,skinned,deseededandchopped(seepage24)500g/1lb2ozrawmixedseafood4tbspchoppedsweetcicely

2bayleaves

Make the risotto following the instructions on page 184, adding the tomatoeswith the garlic. Continue with the recipe to the end, adding the raw seafood,sweet cicely andbay leaves5minutesbefore the ricewill be ready,when theseafood should have turned pink. If you are using cooked fish, stir it in justbeforeleavingtherisottotorest.

CHERVILCherviliseasytogrowasahardyannualthroughouttheyear,butisveryhardtofindonsaleinfoodshops.Inmanywaysitismymost importantherb in thegardenbecause it thrives inthe cold winter months when somany other herbs disappearunderground. Its beautiful, delicate, lacy leaves survive snowand frost, cheering up my food with their looks and aniseedtaste.Chervilisthemostsubtleofaniseed-flavouredherbsandwhentarragonhidesunderthecoldsoil,Iusechervilinsteadinall the traditional tarragon recipes like Béarnaise Sauce (seepage191)andTangyTarragonChicken(seepage74).

HISTORYNativetoRussiaandtheMiddleEast,itisthoughtthattheRomansfirstbrought

chervil toBritain. Itwas used inmany different herbal concoctions, includingonetoaiddigestion,anothertolowerhighbloodpressure,andyetanothertodothe opposite because it was used as a stimulant. And it was even added tovinegartocurehiccups.ItwastraditionallyeateninlargequantitiesduringtheChristiantimeofLent,especiallyonMaundyThursday.Gerard,theElizabethandoctor and garden supervisor,wrote enthusiastically about chervil in his bookHerbal.ItisnowfarmorepopularinFrancethanothercountries,whereitisoneingredientinthefamousfinesherbesmix,andcanoftenbefoundgrowingwild.

COOKING

Chervilissodelicatethatitshouldbeaddedtodishesattheendofcookingtoavoid loss of flavour. It is great added chopped to vegetables like leeks,artichokes or broad/fava beans, adds zest to green salads andworkswellwithmanyfish,chickenandeggdishes.Iblendsmokedfishwithlemonjuice,crèmefraîche and lots of chervil to make a simple pâté (see page 190). Tarts areanotherfavouriteanditisexcellentinvegetablesoups.Atraditionalpotatoandcarrot soup is liftedbyaddingchervil justbefore serving, andcauliflowerandchervilsoupisaclassic.Chervilsaucemadewithshallots,lemonzestandjuice,cream and stock is good with fish, chicken or veal. The herb is perfect withmany vegetables, like carrots, beans, and the Jerusalem artichoke recipes onpage192.Finelychopped,itisagreatadditiontosaladleavesandtomyherbylentil recipes on page 179. Apparently the 18th century philosopher Voltairelovedchoppedcherviladded toscrambledeggs.Wealwaysservechervilwithsmoked salmonand scrambledeggs forbrunchonChristmasDay. I couldnotcookhappilywithoutchervil’sgreatbeautyandtaste.

GROWING

Chervil isveryeasy togrow,and isknown toprefer light soil, somemoistureandsemishade,althoughIfindthatitalsogrowsinfullsuninmygarden,oftenreaching 60cm/24in tall. It has white flowers, which you can remove toencourage leaf formation. You can grow it between other garden plants, likevegetables,toprovidesomeshade,becauseifitgetstoomuchsunandtoolittlewater,itwillflowertooearlysothatleavesarelost.

Whentheflowersform,Idoleaveafewofthemtogotoseedandsohaveonlyboughtonepacketof chervil seedsduringmy longherb-growingyears. Ipick

theseedswhentheygoblackandimmediatelysowthemagainstthenorthwallofmyherbgarden,andinafewotherareas,too.Someseedsarealsogrowninatrayinthegreenhouse,coveredwithvermiculite.Germinationisveryquickandbecausetheseplantshavelongtaprootstheyneedtobepottedonquicklyintodeeppotsorplantedoutside23cm/9inapart.IsavesomeoftheseedstosowinearlyspringsoIhaveaconstantsupplyofchervilthroughouttheyear.Theseedlosesitsviabilityafterabout12months.

After sowing, chervil is ready to harvestwithin a fewweeks.My chervil hasnever had diseases or pests, but if the plants do become infected by greenfly,washthemgentlybecausethesoftleavesaredamagedeasily.

This is one of the herbs which are hard to grow in a pot on your kitchenwindowsillbecausetheplantsbecomeleggyandtheleaveslosetheircolourandflavour inside. Chervil is not suitable for drying, but can be frozen as a herbbutterorchoppedfinelyandputintoicecubetrayswithalittlewater.ItisrichinvitaminCandiron,isversatileenoughtobeusedindozensofmyfavouriterecipesandcanalsobeinfusedtomakearefreshingtea.Atopfive-starherb.

SMOKEDSALMONANDCHERVILPÂTÉThis simple pâté can bemadewith salmon pieces,which are often soldmorecheaplythanslices.Itmakesalovelycanapéoraneasyfirstcourseservedwiththe Cucumber Pickle with Dill (see page 90). Chervil is a good herb withsalmon,butdillorchivescanalsobeusedwhentheyareinseason.Ioftenserveasliceofcucumberwithsmokedsalmonandchivepâtéontop,finishedwithachiveflower,whentheyareavailable.


115g/4ozsmokedsalmon350g/12oz/1½cupscreamcheese

2tbspfinelychoppedchervilleaves

alargepinchofcayennepepperjuiceof½lemon

Blendtogetheralltheingredients.Nootherseasoningisnecessary.

CHICKENLIVERPÂTÉWITHAPPLEANDCHERVILThisisarefreshingpâtéwhichcanbeservedasacanapéoncroûtesorasafirstcoursewithSpicedFruit(seepage167)andsalad.


450g/1lbchickenlivers55g/2oz/¼cupbutter

2tbspcookingbrandy

1onion,chopped1garlicclove,finelychopped2sharpeatingapples,peeled,coredanddiced1handfulofchervil,leavespickedandfinelychopped,plusasmallsprigtodecorate90g/3oz/generous⅓cupclarifiedbutter,melted(seepage78)seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperWashtheliversandremovethemembranesandanygreen-tingedareas.Melthalfthebutterinafryingpanandcooktheliversgentlyfor2–3minutesuntilallthepinkcolourhasdisappeared.Deglazethepanwiththebrandy,stirringtomixinanythingstucktothebottomofthepan.

Softentheonion,garlicandapplesintherestofthebutterinaseparatepanfor5minutes,thenaddtotheliverswiththechervilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Blendeverythingtogetheruntilsmooth,thenpressgentlyintoapâtédish.Sealthepâtéwiththeclarifiedbutterandgarnishwithasprigofchervil.

SAUCEFINESHERBESThistraditionalandexquisitesaucecanbeservedwithfish,chickenandroastedorgrilled/broiledvegetables.


55g/2oz/¼cupbutter1tbspplain/all-purposeflour90ml/3floz/6tbspvegetablestock4tbspdouble/heavycream

4tbspvermouth

1handfulofchervilinthewinterortarragoninspringandsummer,leavespickedandchopped2tbspchoppedflatleafparsley

2tbspsnippedchives

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperBlendtogetherthebutterandflourinasmallsaucepanoveralowheat.Addthestock,creamandvermouthandsimmergentlyforabout4minutes,whiskingcontinuously,untilthesaucehastheconsistencyofsingle/lightcream.Addtheherbsandseasonwell.

LEMONSAUCEThis simple, creamy sauce is refreshingwith grilled/ broiledmeats andmanytypesoffish.


1onion,chopped

1tbspbutter

gratedzestandjuiceof½lemon240ml/8floz/1cupdouble/heavycream2eggyolks

3tbspfinelychoppedchervilleaves

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperSoftenthechoppedonioninthebutterforabout8minutes,withoutallowingittobrown.Addthelemonzestandjuice,creamandeggyolksandwhiskthesauceasyouheatitoveramediumheatfor10–15minutesuntilitthickens.Addthechervilandseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.

BÉARNAISESAUCEInthewinter,whentarragonwillhaveescapedunderground,youcanusechervilinstead in this classic recipe. Both herbs have a similar aniseed taste. This isservedwithsteakandmanyotherdishesincludingfishandeggs.


4tbspdrywhitewine4tbspwhitewinevinegar2tspfinelychoppedshallot

2eggyolks

140g/5oz/scant⅔cupbutter2tbspchoppedchervilorFrenchtarragonseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperBoilthewine,vinegar,shallotandapinchofpeppertogetheruntilthepanisalmostdry.Add1tablespoonofwaterimmediatelyandtakeofftheheat.Whiskintheeggyolks,thenaddthebutterbitbybit,whiskingoveragentleheatforabout4minutesuntilitthickens.Addthechoppedherb,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andstirwell.

JERUSALEMARTICHOKESWITHCHERVIL,REDONIONANDBACONJerusalemartichokesareveryusefulpeeledandcookedgentlyuntiltheyarestillslightlycrisp.Theycanbeservedcoldwithmanysaladsandotherdishes.Thisis a favourite of mine, served with bacon lardons, raw red onion and lots ofchoppedchervilinagoodMustardDressing.


16Jerusalemartichokes,peeled

1smallredonion,finelychopped

3tbspchoppedchervilleaves,plusextratodecorate4tbspMustardDressing(seepage221)100g/3½ozbaconlardonsseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperBoiltheartichokesfor5–10minutes,checkingconstantly,untiljusttenderbutstillquitecrisp–theymustnotsoften.Drainandslicetheartichokesthinly.Mixwiththeredonion,choppedchervilandthemustarddressing.

Fry the bacon for a few minutes until cooked through and just beginning tobrown, then add it to the artichokes.Finishwith a little extra chopped chervilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

JERUSALEMARTICHOKESWITHCHERVILANDAVOCADOCrisp, firm artichoke slices contrast beautifully with the soft and creamyavocado.Thewalnuts in thedressingworkwellwith the tasteof artichokes. Iusethemtogetherinotherrecipeslikesaucesandsoups.


16Jerusalemartichokes,peeled2shallots,finelychopped3ripeavocados,peeledandpitted

3tbspchoppedchervilleavesWALNUTDRESSING

1tbspwalnutoil

4tbspnon-scentedoillikesunflowerorgroundnut/peanutoil


1tbspwalnuts,crushedinapestleandmortarseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPreparetheartichokesasdescribedintherecipeontheleft.Mixwiththerawchoppedshallots.Slicetheavocadosandarrangethevegetablesonaservingdish.

Makethewalnutdressingbywhiskingtogetheralltheingredientsandseasoningwell.

Sprinkle the chervil over the artichokes and avocado, season with salt andpepperandpourthedressingoverthetop.

ROASTJOHNDORYWITHCHERVILANDALMONDBUTTERThis is a subtle fish recipe to make the most of chervil when it is at itswonderful,winterbest.IliketouseJohnDoryforthisdish,whichIfirstateinasmall coastal village in Corsica. In French it is called St Pierre, supposedlybecause it bears St Peter’s thumbprints from the time he caught the fish forJesus.Therecipecanbemadewithotherfish,likeseabream.


2large,wholeJohnDory,preparedbythefishmongerjuiceof1lemon,plus1lemon,cutintowedges2tbsproughlychoppedflatleafparsleyleaves

3smallsprigsofrosemaryleaves

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperCHERVILANDALMONDBUTTER85g/3oz/heaped1cupflaked/slicedalmonds85g/3oz/heaped⅓cupbutter1handfulofchervil,leavespickedandfinelychoppedjuiceof½lemon

Preheat theoven to200°C/400°F/Gas6.Rinse the fishandpatdry, thenscorethe fish several times on each side.Mix the lemon juicewith the parsley androsemaryandpushhalfintothecavityofeachfish.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Putthefishonabakingtraywiththelemonwedgesandroastintheovenfor12minutesuntilfirmtothetouchbutcookedthrough.

Meanwhile,tomakethechervilandalmondbutter,toastthealmondsinanon-stick saucepanover a lowheat for about 5minutesuntil theybrown.Add thebutterandlet itmelt.Takeoff theheatandstir in thechervil, lemonjuiceandalmondsuntilwellmixed.Spoonoverthefish,arrangethelemonwedgesontopandservewarm.Simpleanddelicious.

CORIANDERCoriander, or cilantro, is one of the most widely used herbsaroundtheworld,lovedfortherobustflavourofitsleavesandseeds.Thesweet,citrus,astringenttasteoftheleavesgoeswellwith powerful salad, yogurt, cheese, soup, noodle, stirfry andsauce recipes from the Middle East, India, Thailand, China,Mexico and North Africa. Coriander seed is useful forembeddingflavour intoslowcookedrecipes likecurries.Thisversatileherbhasa“loveitorhateit”flavourbecauseitissostrong.Butitsincreasingsalesprovethatmoreandmorecooksare learning to appreciate coriander/cilantro and rely on it intheirkitchens.

HISTORY

Theoldestarchaeologicaldiscoveryof theseedsofcoriander/cilantrowas inatomb in Israel.Manypeoplebelieve that the“manna”eatenby thechildrenofIsrael returning fromslavery inEgypt,described in theOldTestament,was infacttheseedsofthecoriander/cilantroherb.ItisstilleatenduringPassovertoremindJewishpeopleofthathistoricjourney.TheRomansbroughttheplanttoNorthern Europe, using it to preserve meat. By the Middle Ages it had areputationasanaphrodisiac,beinganimportantingredientinlovepotions.Ithastaken time to become popular in food. In 1597 the herb expert John Gerarddescribeditasa“stinkingherbe”.Fewpeoplewouldagreewithhimtoday.

COOKING

Coriander/cilantroleavesshouldbeaddedtodishesjustbeforeservingbecausetheherblosesflavourandgoesslimyifcookedfortoolong.Thefragranceandcharacteroftheleavesaddssomuchtothebigtastesofginger,garlic,spicesandparticularly chilli, in recipes fromaround theworld.Pick thewhite flowers touseinsaladsorricedishes;theytasteofboththeleavesandseeds,anaromaticandscentedmix.Theseedshaveastrongertastewithahintoforange,enhancedwhenyouheattheminadrypan,thengrindthemtoaddtoadish.

GROWING

Coriander/cilantroisanannualherbrelatedtocarrots,whichgrowstoaheightof75cm/30in.Inthesummer,attractiveclustersofsmallwhiteflowersappear,followedbytheseeds.Theleavesofcoriander/cilantrocomeintwoforms.Thelowerbroadleavesarethefirst togrowandwiththeirstrongtastetheyarethebest for the kitchen. Then upper, finely cut leaves appear, which have a lessattractivetasteandaratherpungentscent.

Thesesecondleavesareasignthattheplantwillsoonbeproducingflowersandthen seeds. In hot, dry conditions coriander/cilantro will go to seed morequickly. Two varieties that are recommended as slow to bolt are Leisure andConfetti.Thesecretwithallcoriander/cilantroseedistosowlittleandofteninearlyspringandautumn,butnotinthehot,drymonths.

Harvest the leaves for cooking when they are bright green in colour. Whenfloweringstarts the leafflavourdeteriorates.Pickthewhiteflowers justbeforeyou plan to use them, once thewhole cluster is in flower. I pick some of the

seedswhentheyaregreenbecausetheyhaveanamazingfreshspiceflavour.Butmostareleftontheplantuntil theyturnbeigeandwill thenstorewell.Atthisstage thesmellof theseedsstarts tochangeandbecomeattractive.This is thetimetoharvestthem.Tieapaperbagovertheseedheadsandhanginanairy,dryplace for about twoweeks. The seeds can then be separated and stored in anairtightjarforcooking,orsowninthegardentoprovidethenextcrop.

Fewpeopleknowthattherootisedibleanddelicious.Itsearthyflavourisamixoftheleafandseed.Rootsshouldbefinelychoppedandaddedtosoups,stewsandcurries.TheyareoftenusedinThairecipes.

Ascoriander/cilantrohatestobetransplanted,sowtheseedsdirectlyintogardensoil where you want the herb to grow. Choose a light soil that has beennourishedwithmanureorcompostinadvance,sothatitwillnotdryoutinthesummerandencouragetheplanttobolt.Coriander/cilantropreferslightshadetofullsunasyoungplantsarepronetoscorching.Youcanalsosowtheseedsintoalarge,deeppotifyouaregrowingincontainers.Inasmallpotofsoiltherewillbe little space for the tap root and the herbwill produce few leaves before itflowersandgoestoseed.

VIETNAMESEPHOI tried this soup for the first timewhen it was offered for breakfast during aholiday inVietnam.Cafésby theroadsidewerefullofpeopleenjoyingpho tokick-start theirday.Butbyaddingenoughchicken,beansproutsandnoodles, Inowhaveitregularlyforlunchathome.Itsspicyfreshnessdependsalotonthewonders of coriander/cilantro. I often make double the quantity of flavouredstockandfreezehalftouseasthebaseforphoonanotherday.


1largeonion,quartered6cm/2½inpieceofrootginger1litre/35floz/4⅓cupschickenstock3staranise2tspcorianderseeds1tspfennelseeds

3cardamompods

2tbspcaster/superfinesugar3tbspnampla(Thaifishsauce)1redchilli,deseededandsliced2skinless,bonelesschickenbreasts,sliced300g/10½ozpacketofstraightto-wokricenoodles

2handfulsofbeansprouts

juiceof1lime,totaste4smallhandfulscoriander/cilantroleavesGrill/broiltheonionandgingerforabout10minutesuntiltheystarttoblacken.

Heatthestocktoboilingandaddtheonion,ginger,spices,sugar,fishsauceandchilliandsimmerfor15minutes.Thiscanbedoneinadvanceandleft for theflavourstodevelop.Straintoremovetheherbs,vegetablesandspices,thenpourthe chicken stock back into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the slicedchickenandsimmerforseveralminutesuntilitiscooked.Thenaddthenoodlesandcookfor2minutes.Addlimejuicetotaste.Checktheflavourstomakesurethebalancewithfishsauceandsugariscorrectandadjustasnecessary.

Ladle into bowls and add the beansprouts and coriander/cilantro just beforeserving.

CORIANDERCELEBRATIONFILLETOFBEEFThis isanexpensivebutveryspecialdish,which looksbeautifulwith thebeefslicedandarrangedwiththesaladandpotatoesonalargewhiteplatter.Itbringsamoderntwisttotheoldstandbyofrare,slicedbeef,withthesweet,hot,limeandherbytangofaqualityThaisalad.Thisisperfecttoserveoutinthegardenonahotsummerday.Itisdefinitelyafamilyfavourite.


1filletofbeef,about1kg/2lb4oz,rolledandtiedseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1lime,quartered,toserveSOYMARINADE2tbspsoysauce1tbspsesameoil

2tbspvegetableoilHERBSALAD2tbsplimejuice2tbspsoysauce1tbspsesameoil

1tspsugar

1smallredchilli,deseededandchopped4smallredonions,finelysliced4springonions/scallions,sliced2handfulsofcoriander/cilantro,leavespickedandroughlychopped1handfulofmint,leavespickedandroughlychopped1handfulofbasil,leavespickedandroughlychopped1handfulofflatleafparsley,leavespickedandroughlychoppedNEWPOTATOES16smallnewpotatoes

3tbspoliveoil

1tbspchoppedrosemaryorthymeleavesfilletMixtogetherthemarinadeingredients,pouroverthebeef,coverandleaveinacoolplaceovernight.

Preheattheovento190°C/375°F/Gas5.Tossthepotatoesintheoilandherbandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastforabout45minutesuntiltenderandcrispontheoutside.After10minutes,putthebeefintheovenandcookfor30minutesmaximumuntil it isstillpinkinthemiddle.Leaveit torestwhile thepotatoesfinishcooking.

Justbeforeserving,mixtogetherallthesaladingredients.Slicethebeefandputona largeservingplate,arrange thepotatoesaround theedgeandsprinkle thesaladoverthetop.Garnishtheplatewithlimequartersandservetheremainingsaladontheside.

OKRAWITHCORIANDERANDTOMATOWhenImovedfromNorth-EastEnglandtoWestLondon,oneofthemanygreatculinary thrills was the closeness of Southall, with its shops, cafés andrestaurants serving the local Indian community. I had never seenmany of theAsian vegetables and herbs before, or the sweet, sugary cakes and bottles ofpickles.Ialwayswenthomewithdifferentthingstotryandnevermissedbuyingunusualvegetablesandhugebunchesofcoriander/cilantroandflatleafparsley.Okra soon became a regular dish, cooked in a variety ofways. This is still afavourite.


2tbspoliveoil

2largeonions,chopped6garliccloves,finelychopped900g/2lbfreshyoungokra,trimmedandchoppedinto1cm/½inlengths1kg/2lb4oztomatoes,skinned,deseededandchopped(seepage24),about400g/14ozpreparedweight2tbsplemonjuice

2tspgroundcoriander

1handfulofcoriander/cilantro,leavespickedandchoppedseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperHeattheoilinalargefryingpanandsoftentheonionsforabout10minutesoveragentleheat.Addthegarlicandfryforacoupleofminutes,thenaddtheokraandcookfor2minutes.Addthetomatoes,lemonjuiceandgroundcoriander,thenseasonwithsaltandpepperandbringtotheboil.Turndowntheheattolowandgraduallyadd180ml/6floz/¾cupwater,keepingthesaucesimmeringforabout15minutesuntiltheokraistenderandthesauceisthick.Servesprinkledwiththefreshcoriander/cilantro.

QUINOAANDCORIANDERSALADThis is a healthy and tasty salad,which can bemadewith vegetables, nuts orfruit. In the summermonths you can ring the changes by combining choppedfreshpeachesornectarineswithpistachios,raisins,springonions/scallionsandrocket/arugula,butthissaladworksbeautifullywiththesevegetables,too.


200g/7oz/scant1¼cupsquinoa½smallcauliflower,cutintosmallflorets1largebunchofcoriander/cilantro,leavespicked4tbspoliveoil

12smallmushroomcaps

3springonions/scallions,chopped2–3sundriedtomatoesinoil,drainedandquarteredjuiceof2lemonsseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPreheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4.Putthequinoainasaucepan,justcoverwithwaterandaddapinchofsalt.Bringtotheboil,thensimmerfor12minutesuntilthequinoaistender.Drain,thenspreadthequinoaoutonaplateandleaveittocoolanddry.

Meanwhile,cookthecauliflowerinboilingwaterfor3minutesuntilcookedbutstillslightlycrunchy.Drainandputinaroastingpan.

Putaquarterofthecoriander/cilantroleavesinasmallblenderwiththeoilandblenduntilsmooth.Pourtheherbyoiloverthemushrooms,thenseasonwithsaltandpepper.Putintheroastingpanwiththecauliflower,thencookthemintheovenfor10minutesuntilcookedbutstillcrisp.

Chop the remaining coriander/cilantro leaves, then stir them into the quinoa.Addthemushrooms,cauliflower,springonions/scallionsandsundriedtomatoes,thensprinkleoverthelemonjuicetoserve.

ROSEMARYRosemary was originally a Mediterranean herb, but is nowfound in most parts of the world and is used in recipes byeveryonewith the slightest interest in food. It is so adaptablethat it canbe grown in a pot inside or out, it canbe cut intoelegant shapes or used as a small hedge to protect other lesshardyherbs.IfindIuseitatleastonceaweekinmyrecipes,somakesureyouhaveitgrowingnottoofarawayfromyourkitchen.

HISTORYAccordingtolegend,rosemarywasdrapedaroundtheGreekgoddessAphroditeassherosefromthesea.Inthepast,itwasthoughtthatdiseasecamefromdirty

air,sorosemarywasusedalotduringthePlaguewhenpeoplecarriedposiesofherbsandscentedflowerstowardoffdisease.Itfeaturedinfuneralstoo,thrownoverthecoffinasitwasloweredintotheearth.

Lotsofmythssurroundthisherb,onebeingthatitwillgrowfor33yearsbeforeitdiesbecausethelengthofChrist’slifewas33years.ThevirginMaryisalsosaidtohavelaidherbluecloakoverarosemarybushwithwhiteflowerswhenshe stopped for a rest. The flowerswere thought to have become blue at thatmoment,sotheherbthenbecameknownastheRoseofMary.

COOKING

IusetheyoungestleavesfromthetipsforcookingandIalsousestraightstemswith their leaves cut back a little as aromatic kebab sticks to push throughchunks of vegetables, chicken or lamb. Add rosemary to bouquet garni, tostuffings, forspikingmeatandgame, inherboils,vinegarsandmarinadesandwithnewpotatoes,onionsorvegetables,roastedinoliveoil.

Rosemaryiscertainlyoneofthemostspecialandversatileofculinaryherbs.Itis powerful for flavouring all meat, especially lamb, as well as fish, tomatodishes,beansandlemonsauces.RosemarySyrup(seepage213)isafavouriteinmanyofmydesserts.IalsomakeAppleJellyflavouredwithrosemary(seepage166),whichisuseful infruit tartrecipes(seepage129).Ialwaysmakelotsofapple and rosemary jelly because when I have plenty of fruit, from whitecurrants to apples and pears, I make individual tarts or a large tart with puffpastry,coveredwith fruit slices. I thenadd finelychopped fresh rosemaryandfinishwithathicklayerofthejelly,whichsweetensandglazesthetartinstantly.

GROWING

Most species have blue flowers, although I have grownwhite or pink plants,whichseemlesshardy.ThebushyCorsicanrosemaryisgoodforcooking,andIliketheprostraterosemarygrownoverwallsandinurns,butmyfavouriteforitslooks and taste isMiss Jessopp’sUpright. In flavour tests of over30 typesofrosemarybyafoodcompany,thisvarietycametop.

Rosemarycan lookverybeautiful, is trouble freeand,onceplanted, ideally inspringinwell-drainedsoil,willoftenlastfordecades.Itdemandslittleattention,

needingapruneonlyonceayear.Icutmyplantsbackafterthewinterflowersareover,butrosemarycanalsobeprunedintheautumn.Igrowitasafanshapeagainst south-facingwallsandasa standard. It isalsoperfect for topiary fans,buttobesuccessful,starttoshapetheplantwhenyoung.Ifyouwanttotrainthistypeofrosemaryasahedge,startwithsmallplants46cm/18inapart.

The bestway to grow the less hardy varieties of rosemary, especially in coldareas, is in pots. You may need to protect them with fleece in freezingconditions.Always usewell-drained soilwherever you are planting rosemary,incorporatingsomegritwiththecompost.Donotoverwaterandfeedonlyafterflowering.

Rosemary is easy to propagate from softwood cuttings. In late spring, take8cm/3incuttingsfromyoungshootsandtreatinthenormalway.Thegreatthingaboutrosemaryisthatitgrowseasilyinthegardentousefreshfor12monthsayear.Somepeoplehangbunchestodryinthekitchen,butIfindthattheleavesfalltothegroundlikeChristmastreeneedlesandtastedisgusting.

ROSEMARYANDCOURGETTEQUICHEIt is worth using both green and yellow courgettes/zucchini for the quichebecauseitwill lookmoreattractive.Rosemaryis theperfectherbtocookwiththisvegetable,forthefollowingrecipeandmanyothers.

Preparation:45mins,pluschillingCooking:1hrServes4

PASTRY225g/8oz/1¾cupsplain/allpurposewhiteflourorsievedwholemeal/whole-wheatflour,plusextrafordustingapinchofsalt110g/4oz/scant½cupbutter,plusextraforgreasing1egg,beatenwith1½tbspwater

FILLING30g/1oz/2tbspbutter1onion,finelychopped1garlicclove,chopped175g/6ozgreencourgettes/zucchini,sliced175g/6ozyellowcourgettes/zucchini,sliced

2eggs

120ml/4floz/½cupdouble/heavycream

4tbspgratedParmesancheese

1tbspfinelychoppedyoungrosemaryleavesseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppermixedgreensaladincludingcourgette/zucchini,toserveTomakethepastry,sifttheflourandsaltontoakitchenworksurface.Makeawellinthemiddleandputthebutterandeggintothewell.Workthemtogetherusingyourfingertipsuntiltheyaremixed,thengraduallydrawintheflour.Tossituntilithasasandytexture.Gatherintoaball,workwiththeheelofthehand,gatherupagain,workandrepeatathirdtime.Putinaplasticbagorwrapinclingfilm/plasticwrapandchillintherefrigeratorfor1hour.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas4 andgrease a 23cm/9in flandish.Rollout the pastry on a lightly floured surface and use to line the flan dish. Put apieceofbakingparchmentoverthepastryandcoverwithbakingbeans.Bakefor10minutes,thenremovethepaperandbeans.

Tomake the filling, melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat andsoften the onion for 10 minutes, then add the garlic and fry for a further 2minutes.Addthecourgettes/zucchiniandfryfor3minutes.

Beat the eggs in a bowlwith the cream, add the cheese, seasonwith salt andpepper, thenmixwith thecookedvegetablesandchoppedrosemary.Pour intothepastrycaseandbakeforabout30minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithagreensaladincludingfinelyslicedrawcourgette/zucchini.

DUCKWITHSEVILLEORANGEANDROSEMARYSAUCEI first tried thisrecipe inElizabethDavid’sFrenchProvincialCookerywhenIwaslearningtocook.Ihavemodifieditovertheyears,servingitwithfarmedorwild duck. The distinctive Bigarade sauce, named after the French name forSevilleoranges, canonlybemadewhen theyare in the shops, but I like it somuch that I freeze small pots touse throughout theyear.Thehouse smells ofsharpSevilleorangesfordaysbecauseIbuyenoughorangestomakeplentyofmymother’s“magicmarmalade”too,whichincludesextralemonstoprovideafresh, sharp taste that I have never found in a professional jar. Marmalade-making sumsup an agreementbetweenmymother andme.When Iwasbusywith children andwork at theBBC, shemade enoughmarmalade to keep theHann toast tasty; itwas typical of the support she alwaysgaveme.When shebecamefrail,ourrolesreversed.Sheneverhadtobuymarmalade,nor,Ihope,worryaboutathing.


4duckbreasts

1tbspbutter

1tbspplain/all-purposeflour

1tbspchoppedyoungrosemaryleaves

90ml/3floz/6tbspdrywhitewine90ml/3floz/6tbspstock,madefromduckgibletsifyouhavethem,orchickenstockfinelygratedzestandjuiceof3Sevilleorangesabout1–3tbspredcurrantjelly,totasteseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperTocooktheduck,scorethefattyskinonthebreasts.Heataheavy-basedfryingpan,puttheduckbreastsskin-sidedowninthepananddry-fryfor12–15minutesuntiltheskinisgoldenbrown.Pouroffthefat.Addsaltandpeppertothebreasts,turnthemoverinthepanandcookforseveralminutes

andpeppertothebreasts,turnthemoverinthepanandcookforseveralminutesuntiltheyarecookedtoyourliking.

Meanwhile,makethesauce.Heat thebutter inasaucepanoveramediumheatuntilitstartstobrown,thenaddtheflourandcook,stirringcontinuously,untilyou have a pale brown roux. Add the rosemary and the wine and heat untilreducedalittle.Addthestockandsimmeruntilyouhaveasmooth,thicksaucetheconsistencyofdouble/heavycream.Addtheorangezesttothesaucewiththejuicefromtheorangesandsimmerforafewminutes.Whenyoutasteityouwillfinditbitter,butyoucanthenaddenoughredcurrantjellytosuityourtastebuds.Startwith1 tablespoon,butyouwill probablywant to addmore.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Slicetheduckbreastsandservewiththesauce.

LAMBKEBABSWITHROSEMARYVEGETABLESShishkebabmustbe themost famousTurkishdish. It is thought tohavebeenfirst created in the ottoman Empirewhen Turkish soldiers, forced to camp intents,grilled/broiledtheirfoodoverwoodoutside.Iliketouserosemarystemsfor vegetable kebabs. They add so much flavour. You should marinate thevegetableandlambkebabsfirstand,ifpossible,grill/broilthemoverdriedherbstoimprovethetasteevenmore.Alocalblacksmithmademealargemetalspittouseovertheopenfireinmykitchen.Driedrosemary,thyme,sage,bayandevenlavenderarealwaysonhandwhenIamusingthespit.Pheasant,partridge,andsmallerdisheslikekebabs,arecookedoverourowndriedwood,oftencollectedafterpruningappleandpeartrees.


1largeneckfilletoflamb,about500g/1lb2oz,cutintosmallsquares16smalltomatoes

16smallmushroomcaps

2yellowpeppers,deseededandcutinto16pieces4straightrosemarystemstouseforthevegetableskebabs2tbspsumac(optional)

HERBMARINADE90ml/3floz/6tbspoliveoil2tbspchoppedrosemaryleaves

4bayleaves

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperjuiceof2lemons

TOSERVE

4pittabreads

Tabbouleh(seepage60)orricedressedsaladherbleaves

Mix together all themarinade ingredients, pour half over the lamb, cover andleavetomarinateatroomtemperatureforatleast2hours,turningoccasionally.Marinate the tomatoes,mushroomcapsandpeppers in theremainingmarinadefor1hour.

Drain themeat and thread onto 4metal or soaked wooden skewers. Sprinklewith thesumac, ifusing.Thread the tomatoes,mushroomsandpeppersonto4rosemarystems,oneforeachperson.Grill/broilboththelambandthevegetablekebabsonafire,abarbecueorunderaveryhotgrill/broilerfornomorethan10minutes, turning occasionally, when the vegetables will be cooked and theoutsideofthemeatshouldbebrown,buttheinsidepinkandjuicy.

Warmthepittabreadfor1minuteunderthegrill/broiler.ServethekebabsandpittawithTabboulehorriceandaherbsalad.

ICEDPEARSOUFFLÉThisisthemostpoeticpuddingIserve,specialenoughforanyoccasion.Itlookssoelegantmadeinsmall,individualcircularmouldswithapoachedpearsittingin themiddle of each one, decoratedwith fresh rosemary. Poach the pears insugar,whitewineandarosemarysprig,basedontherecipeonpage176.Thissoufflécanbemadewithotherfruitpurées,butmadewithpearsitiswhite,lightandbright. Isometimesmakehugebowlsof it,aswellaspouring themixtureintosmalldishes.Ifyouaremakingicecreamorcrèmebrûlée,youcanusetheeggwhitesleftoverfromthoserecipestomakethisdeliciousconcoction.

Preparation:45mins,plusfreezingCooking:15minsServes4–6

400g/14ozpears,peeled,coredandcutintochunksjuiceof1lemon

2sprigsofrosemary

280g/10oz/scant1½cupscaster/superfinesugar

5eggwhites

300ml/10½floz/1¼cupsdouble/heavycream,whipped4tbsppearliqueuror1recipequantityRosemarySyrup(seepage213)Startbymakingthepearpurée.Putthepearflesh,lemonjuiceandrosemaryinasaucepanandsimmeruntilthepearsaretender–about10minutes.Discardtherosemaryandpuréethefruitandjuiceinafoodprocessor.

Tomake the Italianmeringue,dissolve the sugar in120ml/4floz/½cupwaterover a low heat, then raise the heat, bring to the boil and boil hard until youreachthehardballstage(120°C/248°F).Ifyoudon’thaveasugarthermometer,takeoutalittleofthesyruponateaspoonanddipitintoicedwater,thenkneaditbetweenyourfingers–ifitformsafirm,pliableball,itisready.

Whisktheeggwhitesuntilsoftpeaksform,thenpourthesugarsyrupoverthem,whisking all the time until themeringue swells. Fold thewhipped cream and

pearliqueur,ifusing,intothemeringue,thenfoldinthecooledfruitpurée.Pourthemixtureintoalargedish,orindividualpots,andplaceinthefreezer.Youcanstoreitinthefreezerforupto3months.

Beforeyouarereadytoserve,removethesouffléfromthefreezerandallowittosoftenalittle.youwantittobehalfwaybetweenacoldsouffléandicecream.Ifyouarenotusingliqueurintherecipe,youcanservethesouffléwithrosemarysyruppouredoverthetop.

SALADHERBSANDROCKETSaladherbsarenowthestarsonourplates,despitethefactthattheywererarelyseen,sold,grownoreatenafewdecadesago.Today there are dozens of different plants of many colours,shapesandtextures,liketheever-popularrocket/arugula,manytypesofcress,Japanesespecieslikemizunaandshungikuandmustardsofeverysizeandtaste.Iliketomixthemonaplateasabaseforfavouriterecipes.

HISTORYOur most popular salad herb, rocket/arugula, was virtually unknown forcenturies,despitebeingpartofculinarylifefortheRomansandthentheFrenchand Italians. So it surprises many people to know that it was listed by JohnEvelyn in the 17th century as being an important British salad herb. He

describeditas:“Hotanddry,tobequalifiedwithlettuce”,realizingitiswisetomixitwithlesspunchysaladingredients.JohnEvelyn’sdefinitionofasaladis:“In a sallet every plant should come in to bear its part without beingoverpoweredbysomeherbofastrongertaste,butfallintotheirplaceslikethenotesinmusic”.

My inspiration was the writer and gardener, Joy Larkam, who travelled theworldfromthe1970s,bringingbackseedstotryathome.Herbooks,TheSaladGarden and Oriental Vegetables, taught me so much, too, explaining thepleasure of oriental varieties and Japanese salad leaves. She even learnedChinesetomakeherresearchmoresuccessfulandherdescriptionsremindmeofa filming trip Imade for theBBC to yunnanProvince in SouthChina,wherevegetables and saladherbs aregrowneverywhere inperfectly tended fields. Itinspiredmetogrowasmanyvarietiesaspossibleinmyowngardenathome.

COOKING

Most of my salad herbs are served raw, but almost all of them can also becooked for soups, stir-fries and sauces. Younger leaves of salad herbs have amilder,fresher taste thanolderones,sotheyareperfectforsalads,suchasmyMiddleEastern-inspiredWinterSaladofMixedHerbs,SquashandPomegranate(see page 222).They getmore peppery as they get older and these leaves aremore suitable for wilting into crushed new potatoes or folding into a tomatosaucetobeservedwithpasta.

Rocket/arugula leaves are perfect for sprinkling onto pizzas or into soup. Orblendthemintoapestowitharealoomph(seepage35).Pestoisusefultoservewithpasta,asatoppingfortarts, indifferentcanapésandfortossingwithnewpotatoes.Itwillkeepintherefrigeratorforaweekandcanalsobefrozen.IntheGulfofNaples,rocket/arugulaisalsousedtomakeapowerfulliqueur.

VARIETIESIGROW

Mysaladherbbed isaworkofartwithbroad-leaf sorreledging thebedsandalpinestrawberriesatthefront.Red-veinedsorrelgrowsinacircleinthemiddlewithothersaladherbssown likesspokesofawheel,usingcontrastingcoloursandleafshapes.IusedramaticleaveslikemizunaasthespokesandinbetweenIsowsmallersaladleaveslikepurslaneandlamb’slettuce/cornsalad.

JAPANESESALADHERBS

MITSUBAorJapaneseparsley.Thisisasmallclumpingperennialwhichtastesratherlikenutty,celeryflavouredparsley.Itlikesshadeandisusedtraditionallyinsalads,misosoupandsushi.

MIZUNAispopular in theWestwith itsdarkgreen,divided leavesandfresh,pepperytaste.Useitlikerocket/arugula.

MIBUNAhasalonghistoryofcultivationinMibu,whichisintheKyotoarea.Itslongnarrowleaveshaveastrongerflavourthanmizuna.

SHUNGIKUorchopsueygreens.This is anattractive, ediblechrysanthemumwithpetalsandleavesusedfortheirgentleaniseedflavourinsaladsorstir-fries.InJapanitisoneofthemostpopularleafyherbs,foundinmarketseverywhere.Ionlyusetheleavesandflowerpetals,becausethemiddleoftheflowerisverybitter.

MUSTARDGREENSRedFrillsismyfavouritemustardbecauseitsdelicate,maroonfrillyleaveslooksogoodon theplate. IalsogrowGoldenStreaksmustard,withsimilar-shapedleavesofagoldencolour.Slugsleavemustardsalonebecausetheydonotfancytheirpepperyleaves.InpastyearsIhavegrownthebiggerleavesofRedGiantandGreenintheSnowmustards.

WINTER PURSLANE, or claytonia, is one of the hardiest salad herbs, withpretty heart-shaped fleshy leaves and ediblewhite flowers. It has amild tastewithahintofviolets.It ishighinvitaminCandworkswellmixedwithspicyleaveslikerocket/arugula.

SUMMER PURSLANE with golden leaves is also worth growing. It hassucculentroundleavesandcrunchy,ediblebuds,whichtasteofmangetout/snowpeas.

LAMB’SLETTUCE,alsoknownascornsalad,hasattractiverosettesofmild,nutty, oval green leaves, which look good on the plate and bulk out moreflavoursomeleaves.

GREEK CRESS is a peppery plant with attractive divided leaves. I use it asmuchasrocket/arugulaforitssuperbtasteandlooksandalsogrowothertypesofcresslikeBubblesandWrinkledCrinkled.Cressisoftengivensillynames.

LANDCRESSgrowswell inwinter and in shadeandhas ausefulwatercresstasteforsalads,soupsandsauces.Pick the leavesyoungforsalads,whentheyare8–10cm/3–4inhigh.Itlooksgoodforedgingsaladherbbeds.

PERILLA,alsoknownasshiso,hasgreenorredvarieties,withatasteofcumin,aniseed or cinnamon. Young leaves have the best flavour for salads. Plant30cm/12inapart in rich,well-drainedsoil ina sunnyspot.Once theplantsareestablished,pinchingoutthegrowingtipsencouragesbushy,leafygrowth.

REDORACHisahardyannual,cultivatedinAsiaandsouth-easternEuropeforcenturies. Its maroon leaves have an intense flavour and, when small, can beused insalads,orcooked likespinachwhen theyaremoremature. Itgrows to1m/39in,withlargeattractiveseedheads.

MIXEDLEAVES

Whenyouwanttogrowavarietyofsaladherbsinasmallspace,likeawindowbox,useapacketofmixedsaladherbs,calledorientalSaladiniorMesclun,andsowtheseedsmoredenselythannormal.Thefirstcutcanoftenbemadewithinthreetofourweeks,whentheseedlingsare6cm/2½inhigh.Cutagainwhenevertheyreachthatheight.

MICROHERBSare fashionable todecorate a plate andbring intense flavour.Youcanexperimentathomeusingaseedtrayonawindowsill.Pickwhentheyareabout2.5cm/1intallandhavetheirfirstsetoftrueleaves.

DANDELION first came into my culinary life on my 40th birthday. I wascelebrating in Monte Carlo’s Hermitage Hotel, eating a salad of dandelionleaves,mushroomsandbaconinabeautifuldressing.Wantingtorecreatethisathome,Iboughtapacketofpissenlitseedsthenextday.Backathome,whereIsharedanallotmentwithmyfather,herefused toconsidergrowingdandelionsthere.“Ihavespenthoursdiggingthedamnthingsup.Throwtheseedsaway”,hesaid.ButIhavebeengrowingtheminmyownherbgardenfor20years.Thecultivatedleavesaresuperiortowilddandelion,withlarger,milderleaves.

ROCKET

Rocket/arugulaisthemostusefulsaladherbIgrow.Ialwayshavesomeintheherbgardenbecauseitsurvivesthewinterconditionswell.

Therearetwotypesofrocket/arugula:saladandwild.Saladrocket/arugulaisanannual with cream flowers, which are also edible. There are many varieties,includingared-veinedvarietycalledDragon’sTongueandonelaunchedin2016that tastesof the Japanesemustard,wasabi. Ingeneral, thenarrowerandmoreindentedtheleaf,themorepepperytheflavourofthevarietywillbe.Thesecondtypeisthemuchstronger-tastingperennialwildplant.Itisusefultohavethisasapermanentcrop.

GROWING

Twiceayear,inmid-springandlatesummer,youshouldbesowingsaladherbstoprovideanall-yearsupply.Whetheryouaregrowingtheminacontainerorinthegarden,mixthevarietiestogetanattractivecombinationofcolours,shapesandtextures.

Youcangrowsaladherbsas“cut-and-comeagain”,harvestingregularly.Thisisa great advantage, because buying bags of salads can be expensive and theleavesareneverasfreshasthoseinyourgardenorwindowbox.Boughtsaladleavesarealsostrippedofvitaminsbythe“modifiedatmosphere”processoftenusedtolengthentheirshelflives.

People are surprised to find that salad herbs, sown in late summer,will growthroughout the winter. But, in fact, they thrive in the colder months. Unlikeherbs sown in spring, they do not bolt or become full of holes from the fleabeetle. They often have a better size and flavour. When they become verymature in latewinter, I leavethemforacoupleofhours inwater torehydrate.Thisgivesthemanimprovedtexture.

WhenIamabouttosowseeds,Iwaterthesoilthoroughlytoavoidsplashingthesmallseedsaroundoncesown.Aftersowing,Icovertheseedwithfinecompost,addsomeorganicfertilizerifthesoilneedshelpandkeeptheareamoistbutnotoverwatered.Oncetheplantshavematured,Iharvestthemregularlytopreventthemgoingtoseed.Itwistorpinchofflowerleaves,leavingarosetteofthreeorfour small leaves in themiddle. These quickly grow for the next harvest andplantscanbecropped forup to threemonthsusing this technique.Pick leavesoffsomeplants toeat,butalsoeatsomesmallwholeplants tomakespaceforotherplantstomature.

TOMATOANDROCKETTARTThisis theeasiest tart tomakeandithasgreatflavour.Insteadofusingcreamcheeseonthepastrybase,asoftgoats’cheeseisgood,too.Isometimesalsoaddother vegetables to the tomato, like aubergine/eggplant, peppers orcourgette/zucchini, sliced andbrowned in a little oliveoil.Otherherbs canbeusedtomakethepestotoppingifyouprefer.Itcanbeservedhotorcold,asonelargetartormadeintoindividualsmallertarts.


alittleoliveoil,forgreasing375g/13ozpackofready-rolledpuffpastry200g/7oz/scant1cupsoftcreamcheese450g/1lbtomatoes,sliced1recipequantityClassicPestomadewithrocket/arugula(seepage35)seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppermixedgreensalad,includingrocket/arugula,toservePreheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4andlightlyoila30x40cm/12x16inbakingsheet.

Place the pastry on the baking sheet anduse a knife to score a line round thepastry about 1cm/½in from the edge without cutting the pastry all the waythroughtothebakingsheet.Spreadthecheeseoverthesurface,makingsurethatyougetitrightuptothelineyouhavejustcutinthepastry.

Arrange the sliced tomatoes on top of the cheese, then season with salt andpepper.Bake in theoven for20–30minutesuntil thepastry isgoldenand thetomatoescooked.Spreadthepestooverthetartwhileitisstillveryhot,sothatitstarts to melt into the tomatoes. Serve with a mixed green salad, includingrocket/arugulaleaves,ofcourse.

HERBYGRILLEDCHICKENWITHROCKET,SUNDRIEDTOMATOANDOLIVESALADWarmsaladscanbemarvellous–ortheycanturnintoadisasterifyoucannotpersuade your diners to sit down at the table on time! I find they are usuallychatting somuch that they dawdle, so have learned to get them sitting downbeforeIassemblethewarmingredientswiththerocket/arugulaorsaladherbs.


90ml/3floz/6tbspoliveoil

1tbspchoppedrosemaryleaves

2garliccloves,finelychoppedgratedzestandjuiceof1lemon

4skinlesschickenbreasts

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperMUSTARDDRESSING2tbspDijonmustard


120ml/4floz/½cupsunflowerorgroundnutoilROCKET,SUNDRIEDTOMATOANDOLIVESALAD140g/5ozrocket/arugulaleaves1smallhandfulofbasilleaves,purpleifavailable16blackolives,pitted10sundriedtomatoesinoil,chopped55g/2ozParmesancheese,shavedMixtogethertheoil,rosemary,garlicandlemonzestandjuice,seasoningwithsaltandpepper.Pouroverthechicken,coverandleaveintherefrigeratorforatleast3hours.

Preheatthegrill/broilertohigh.Liftthechickenoutofthemarinadeandseasonwithsalt andpepper.Grill/broil forabout8minutesoneachsideuntil cookedthroughandnicelybrowned.

Meanwhile, make the mustard dressing. Put the mustard, vinegar and 4tablespoonsofwarmwaterinablenderandmixwell.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheoiluntilitthickenstoathinmayonnaise.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper.

Mixtogethertherocket/arugula,basil,olivesandsundriedtomatoesandtossinalittle of the dressing. Arrange on the sides of four plates and top with theParmesanshavings.Slicethechickenonthediagonalandarrangeontheplatestoserve,withtheremainingdressingontheside.

SALADHERBSWITHSMOKEDDUCKANDSPICEDPEARSIt is important for the look of this dish that some red or maroon leaves, likeperillaormustards,areusedwith thegreenleaves topickupthecolourof thesmoked duck. The last time I served this, I added buckler-leaf sorrel leaves,winter purslane and a little chervil, too. The spiced pears look elegant at themiddleofaplateofleaveswiththinslicesofduck.Iamluckytohaveahigh-quality smokery nearby,where it is possible to buy a huge variety of smokedmeats, fish, cheese and even strings of smoked garlic, but these days you canbuysmokedduckinthesupermarket,too.


4SpicedPearswithHerbs(seepage167)400g/14ozmixedsaladherbleavesandothersmallherbs4tbspMustardDressing(seepage221)

3smokedduckbreasts,thinlysliced

Thisisassimpleasplacingaspicedpearinthemiddleofeachplate.Tossthesalad leaves in the dressing, then arrange around the edge with the slices ofsmokedducklikespokesofawheelaroundthepear.

POACHEDFIGS,FETAANDSALADHERBSThisdishmakesuseofdriedfigswhenfreshonesarehardtofindorarerathertastelessinmid-winter–atimewhensaladherbsareoftenattheirverybest.


12driedfigs

500ml/17floz/generous2cupsgrapejuice400g/14ozmixedbabysaladherbs175g/6ozfetacheese,crumbled40g/1½oz/heaped¼cuppinenuts,toasted

2tbspoliveoil

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPutthedriedfigsandgrapejuiceinasaucepan,bringtotheboil,thensimmergentlyfor15minutesuntilsoft.Leavetocool,thenliftoutofthepoachingliquidusingaslottedspoonandcutintoquarters.

Arrangethesaladherbsonfourplates,topwiththefigsandscatterthefetaandpinenutsontheleaves.

Mixtheoilwith2tablespoonsofthepoachingliquidandspoonoverthesalad.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandserve.

WINTERSALADOFMIXEDHERBS,SQUASHANDPOMEGRANATEThis is good to serve in autumn or winter when squash is at its best and thewarmcoloursofthesquash,thepomegranateandthemixedsaladherbsmakeitlookveryenticing.

Preparation:20minsCooking:40minsServes4450g/1lbbutternutorsimilarsquash,peeled,deseededandcutintosmallcubes1tbspoliveoil,plusextraforgreasing60g/2oz/scant½cuppinenuts2handfulsofrocket/arugulaormixedsaladherbleaves

4tbsppomegranateseeds

seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPOMEGRANATEDRESSING200ml/7floz/scant1cuppomegranatemolasses60ml/2floz/¼cupsyrupybalsamicvinegar1tbspoliveoil

2tspDijonmustard

Preheattheovento220°C/425°F/gas7andoilaroastingpanwithalittleoliveoil.Putthecubesofsquashinthepan,coatwiththeoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastforupto40minutesuntilsoftinsideandcrisplybrownedontheedges,buttestafter30minutestoseeiftheyareready.

Meanwhile,inasmallfryingpan,frythepinenutsfor2–3minutesuntillightlybrowned,thenleavetocool.Whisktogetherallthedressingingredients.

Divide the rocket/arugula onto four plates. Arrange the squash cubes on eachplate, then top with the pine nuts and pomegranate seeds. Drizzle over thedressingandserve.

SWEETCICELYSweetcicely isaplant Ienjoy formany reasons. It isoneof the firstherbs topoke through the soil in winter, offering its sweet-tasting leaves for favouriterecipes.Thesedelicate,fern-likeleavesgiveaheadyanisescenttofoodandtheylookbeautifulinavase,too,particularlywhenthecreamy,whiteflowersappear.Whenvisitorstomyherbcookerycoursestastedozensofdifferentfreshherbs,theyoftenchoosesweetcicelyastheirfavourite.Thisherbreducestheacidityofsharpingredientslikerhubarb,gooseberriesanddamsons,meaningyoucanusefarlesssugarincooking.

HISTORYSweetcicelyisnativetothemountainsofsouthernandcentralEuropefromthePyreneestotheCaucasus.TheGreekcalledthisherbseselianditstastecauseditto become known as sweet cicely. In the 16th century, the herb expert JohnGerardboiled therootsof theherbandgave thesievedpotion topatientswho

werefeelinggenerallyoff-colour.TheherbalistNicholasCulpeperbelievedtherootsprotectedpeopleagainst theplague.Sweetcicelywasalsogrownaroundgraves, possibly because of its anise aroma. And it was rubbed into woodpanellingtoprovideshineandsweetsmells.

COOKING

Thesubtleaniseedtasteoftheleavesandseedsmeanssweetcicelyhasalotincommon with chervil. It is good with shellfish or incorporated into creamysaucesforfishorchicken.Ialsoaddfinelychoppedleavestofruitsalads,appleandpearflans,mixedgreensaladsandcucumberdishes.Theflavourcangiveanunusuallifttomayonnaise,omelettesandrisotto.Anddrinkslikewinecupsalsobenefitfromtheanisetastewithhoneyovertones.Therootsareedibletooandlikecaraway,aniseandfennel,theyareusedtoflavourthespiritakvavit.Ioftenuse the frothy flowers to decorate food. When the flowers and the fern-likeleavesareat theirbest, sweetcicely isdefinitely theprettiestplant inmyherbgarden.

Sweet cicelymakes it possible to use less sugarwhen you are cooking sharpfruit. All you have to do is addwhole leaves and stalks to the fruit and thenremovethemaftercooking.Longcookingdoesreducetheanisearoma,soitisoftenagoodideatostirinmoreleaves,finelychoppedthistime,intothecookedfruitjustbeforeserving.Whentheflowersturntoseed,theflavouroftheleavesis reduced.So toavoidhaving tochoosebetweenuseful seedsor flavoursomeleaves,Ialwayscuthalfofmysweetcicelyplantstothegroundwhentheyareinflower,sothatnewtastyleaveshaveformedwhentherestoftheplantshaveseeds. The green seeds are full of aniseed flavour for adding chopped topuddings like Tarte Tatin with Sweet Cicely Seeds (see page 231), forshortbreadbiscuits,creamcheese,omelettesandsalads.Theyarealsowonderfulforanise-flavouredicecream.

GROWING

Thisherbiseasytogrowinallconditions.Itisahardyperennialwhichgrowsto1m/39in tall.The creamy flower umbels grow from spring into early summer,whentheyturnintogreenedibleseeds.Sweetcicelyissaidtoprefershadeanddamp soil, but my plants also thrive in full sun and the dry corners of thepuddingbedintheherbgarden.

Ineverseemtomanagetoremovealltheseedsbeforetheyfallontotheground.After the early stages,when the seeds aregreen, soft and full of flavour, theybecome tough, black and inedible. Then they fall off the plant, eventuallyproducing seedlings which are difficult to remove from areas where I do notwantthem.Thisisbecauseitishardtodiguptheverylongroots.Ifyouleaveevenasmallportionof root in theground,anewplantwilldevelop.Theyarenotsuitableforgrowinginpotsbecauseofthislargetaproot.

Sowtheseedsoutsideintheautumn,whereyouwantplantstogrow.Theyneedseveralmonthsatlowtemperaturestogerminate.Oryoucansowtheminaseedtray,coverwithglass,andputtheminaverycoldcorneroutside.Theotherwaytoencouragegerminationistoputseedsintoasmallcontainerofsandandkeepintherefrigeratorforamonth.Youcanalsopropagatetheplantbytakingrootcuttingsinspringorautumn.

SWEETCRISPCICELYPLUMFridayeveningswereoftenatreatformeduringmyteenageyears,whenacloseschoolfriendinvitedmetojoinherfamilyforthespecialmealtocelebratetheSabbath.HergrandfatherwastheleaderoftheverysmallJewishcommunityinDerby,UKandhermotherwasagreatcook,inspiredbyherfriendthefamouscookery writer, Evelyn Rose.When I started to cook I bought The CompleteInternationalJewishCookbookbyEvelynandstilluse itoccasionally.Heroattoppingforafruitcrumbleisverypopularwithmyyounggranddaughters,whoinsistonmaking it themselves.When Icook this Idouble thequantityofoatsandhalve the quantity of sugar used fromEvelyn’s recipe. It is also excellentmadewithrhubarb,applesorpears.

Preparation:25minsCooking:1hrServes4–6

500g/1lb2ozplums,pitted

4tbspchoppedsweetcicelyleaves

alargepinchofgroundcinnamonMYOATTOPPING75g/3oz/scant⅔cupplain/all-purposeflour50g/1¾oz/½cuprolledoats50g/1¾oz/scant¼cuplightsoftbrownsugar75g/2½oz/5tbspbuttercream,crèmefraîcheorvanillaicecream,toservePreheattheovento190°C/375°F/Gas5.

Rinsetheplumsandputtheminasaucepanwithasplashofwater.Bringtotheboil, then simmer gently for about 15 minutes until just soft; the time willdependonthesizeandripenessoftheplums.

Putthestewedplumsintoanattractiveovenproofdishlargeenoughtoholdtheplums inone layer anddeep enough to comeabout5cm/2in above theplums.Scatterwiththesweetcicelyleavesandsprinklewithcinnamon.Theherbaddssweetnesstotheplumssothatnosugarisneeded.

Combine the flour, oats and sugar, then rub in the butter until you have a

crumblymixture.Sprinkleinanevenlayerovertheplumsandbakefor30–40minutes until the top is lightly browned and crunchy. Serve hot with cream,crèmefraîcheorvanillaicecream.

TARTETATINWITHSWEETCICELYSEEDSThisisoneofmyfavouritedesserts,especiallywhenwehavelotsofdelicious,sharp apples. If the sweet cicely seeds are past their best, use finely choppedleavesinstead.Theyhavethesamesweetaniseedtaste.Theseedsstartoffgreen,softandverytasty,butdarkenandhardenuntiltheyarenotworthusing.Servingapplesorbetoryogurtinsteadofcreamoricecreamisahealthyoption.Andifyouwantedtobeexperimental,youcouldtrymakingyourownicecream(seepages 110–11), infusing the custard base with sweet cicely seeds or choppedleaves.

Preparation:30minsCooking:1hrServes4–6

1.8kg/4lbsharpeating/dessertapples,likeGrannySmiths250g/9oz/1¼cupscaster/superfinesugar115g/4oz/½cupunsaltedbutteralargepinchofgroundcinnamon

1tbspsweetcicelyseeds,chopped

150g/5½ozsheetofpuffpastrycreamorvanillaicecream,toservePreheattheovento180°C/350°F/Gas4.Peelandcoretheapplesandcutintobigpieces.Put90g/3oz/scant½cupofthesugarina23cm/9intartetatinmouldorovenprooffryingpanandheatgentlyforafewminutesoveralowheatuntilitturnsadarkcaramelcolour.Addhalfofthebutterandletitmelt,stirring,thenremovefromtheheat.Packtheapplepiecestightlyontopofthecaramel.Dicetherestofthebutteranddotitoverthetop,thensprinklewiththecinnamon,thechoppedsweetcicelyseedsandtheremainingsugar.Bakeintheovenfor25minutes.

Cutacircleofpastryslightlylargerthanthemouldandplaceitonthetopofthefruit, tucking in the edges. Cook for a further 30minutes until the pastry hasstartedtobrown.Leavetocool.

Putaflatplateontopofthetart,holdtheplateandmouldfirmlyandturnupside

downsothetartdropsoutontotheplate.Servewithcreamorvanillaicecream.

RHUBARBFOOLWITHSWEETCICELY

Sweet cicely dampens acidity when it is cooked with rhubarb, reducing theamount of sugar needed in the recipe. It also gives the dish an anise flavour.Foolsareanold-fashionedfoodbutpeoplestilllovethemandtheyareveryeasyto make. They are basically purées of sweetened fruit, with whipped creamswirled through. The finished fool should be the texture of softly whippedcream, so if it turnsout too runny, add a little gelatine to the recipe.Youcanserve this dish immediately or chill it for several hours. Serve it with ThymeShortbread(seepage129),withsomechoppedsweetcicelyseedsaddedtothemixifavailable.


450g/1lbrhubarb

1largesprigofsweetcicely

1tbspormoresugar,totaste300ml/10½floz/1¼cupsdouble/heavycream,whippedPuttherhubarbandsweetcicelyinastainlesssteelpanwith2tablespoonswaterandsetoveralowheat.Cookslowlyatfirst,stirring,untilthejuicesstarttoleavetherhubarb,thenbringtotheboilandsimmeruntilsoft.Thiswillprobablytakeabout10minutesifitisyoungrhubarb,butitcantaketwicethattimeforolderstems.Liftoutthesweetcicelyandstirtherhubarbwithawoodenspoon.Tasteforsweetnessandyouwillfindyouwillwanttoaddsomesugar.Dothisgradually,1tablespoonatatime,togetitright.Leavetocoolcompletely.

Foldthesoftlywhippedcreamintothecooledrhubarb,thenspoonthefoolintofourdessertbowlsorglassestoserve.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

IwouldliketothanktheNourishteam:particularlyRebeccaWoodsforherencouragementandimpressiveculinaryknowledge,TaminJonesforhisbeautifulphotographsandWendyHobson,whofoundmybookinspiringassheediteditintoshape.

John,myhusband,hasalwayssupportedmypassionforcookingwithherbsandouroldersonJake,whoinheritedmyloveandknowledgeoffood,haskeptmeonmytoeswithinformedcommentsonnewrecipes.

HisbrotherDanielistheinspirationformyherbcookeryschool,Hann’sHerbs.Hehadleukemiaasateenagerand,afterIplantedmyhugecollectionofherbsandusedthemconstantlyinthekitchen,hesaidthatpassingonmyknowledgewouldbeaperfectwayofraisingmoneyforresearchintothedisease.IamalsogratefulforhelpandguidancefromStellaMillsinboththeherbcookeryschoolandgarden.

ABOUTTHEAUTHOR

JudithHannisabroadcaster,journalistandauthorwithalifelongpassionforherbs.SheisaformerPresidentoftheHerbSocietyandhaswrittenregularlyforitsmagazineHerbs.

AtherhomeintheCotswolds,JudithrunsacookeryschoolcalledHann’sHerbsandgrowsover150differentculinaryherbsinhergarden,whichhasbeenfilmedforGardener’sWorldandRickStein’sFoodHeroes.ShealsopresentedtheBBCfoodseries,TheTasteofHealth.

For20yearsJudithwastherespectedpresenterofTomorrow’sWorldandwrotethebest-sellingbookHowScienceWorks(whichsoldoveronemillioncopiesaroundtheworld).

HERBSJudithhann

FirstpublishedintheUKandUSAin2017byNourish,animprintofWatkinsMediaLimited19CecilCourtLondonWC2N4eZ

[email protected]

Copyright©WatkinsMediaLimited2017Textcopyright©JudithHann2017Photographycopyright©TaminJones2017

TherightofJudithHanntobeidentifiedastheAuthorofthistexthasbeenassertedinaccordancewiththeCopyright,DesignsandPatentsActof1988.

Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformorbyanyelectronicormechanicalmeans,includinginformationstorageandretrievalsystems,withoutpermissioninwritingfromthepublisher,exceptbyareviewerwhomayquotebriefpassagesinareview.

ManagingEditors:RebeccaWoodsandKateFoxEditor:WendyHobsonDesigner:GeorginaHewittProduction:UzmaTajCommissionedphotography:TaminJonesFoodStylist:RebeccaWoodsPropStylist:JenniferKayACIPrecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibraryISBN:978-1-84899282-5

10987654321

TypesetinArnoProColourreproductionbyXYDigitalPrintedinChinaPublisher’snoteWhileeverycarehasbeentakenincompilingtherecipesforthisbook,WatkinsMediaLimited,oranyotherpersonswhohavebeeninvolvedinworkingonthispublication,cannotacceptresponsibilityforanyerrorsoromissions,inadvertentornot,thatmaybefoundintherecipesortext,norforanyproblemsthatmayariseasaresultofpreparingoneoftheserecipes.Ifyouarepregnantorbreastfeedingorhaveanyspecialdietaryrequirementsormedicalconditions,itisadvisabletoconsultamedicalprofessionalbeforefollowinganyoftherecipescontainedinthisbook.

NOTESONTHERECIPESUnlessotherwisestated:Usemediumeggs,fruitandvegetablesUsefreshingredients,includingvegetables,herbsandchillies.WashfreshherbsandpatdrybeforeuseDonotmixmetricandimperialmeasurements1tsp=5ml1tbsp=15ml1cup=240ml

mailto:[email protected]

1tsp=5ml1tbsp=15ml1cup=240mlOventemperaturesareforaconventionaloven;adjusttimesandtemperaturesforfanovensaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions

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Herbs: Delicious Recipes and Growing Tips to Transform Your Food

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