Happly Ever Rafter

8/16/2019 Happly Ever Rafter

1/7 HANDY A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 1 218

Ever Rafter

Happily

HANDY A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 1 218PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL ANDERSON AND LARRY OKREND


2/7 19 W W W . H A N D Y M A N C L U B . C O M A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 1 2 HANDY

Figuring out precise angles and cutsfor a hip roof can be a daunting taskthat might deter some DIYers fromattempting to build an outdoorstructure. But with the help of aterrific Web site (see “Online MathWhiz,” p. 20), all of the calculat-ing for this gazebo project is donefor you; all you have to do is followthe plans and round up a few extrahands, and you’ll be sipping icedtea in the shade in no time. (Before

you start the project, however, besure to check with your local build-ing authority regarding applicablepermits and codes.)

PREP THE FOUNDATION

To allow for proper drainage andprevent grass and weeds fromgrowing beneath the gazebo, firstmark the 12 x 12-ft. pad; then re-move the sod and about 3 in. ofdirt within the marks. Add a layer

of landscape fabric and top it withapproximately 3 in. of class II grav-el (photo 1, p. 20).

Next, dig four 12- to 14-in.-dia.holes (one in each corner) to ac-commodate the 8-in.-dia. Sono-tube forms for the concrete foot-ings. Dig at least 24 in. deep or tothe frost-line depth for your area.

Mix the concrete and start byfilling the holes half full. Insert theSonotube forms so that the distance

from the center of one footing tothe center of the adjacent footingsmeasures 10-1/2 in. and the diago-nal distance between the centers

of the footings is 14-4/5-in. Use alaser level (photo 2) to make surethe tops of each form are at an evenheight. (The yard where we builtthis gazebo was slightly sloped, sothe footing elevation above each

hole varied.)Finish filling each hole and

form with concrete and smooth thesurface; then insert a mudsill an-chor in the center of each footing.

HANDY ’s contractor for this proj-ect, Mike Conner, borrowed theidea of employing mudsill anchorsfrom a friend who has great successusing them to build decks.

Once the concrete has cured(usually after 24 to 48 hours), use

a reciprocating saw or sharp utilityknife to remove the Sonotube formfrom the outside of each footing(photo 3).

BUILD A SIMPLE DECK

Create the deck frame by cuttingtwo 2x10 boards to 10 ft. 9 in.Double-check that the pieces restlevel on the concrete footings. Cuttwo more 2x10 boards to 10 ft.6 in.; they will fit between the lon-ger boards to create a square frame.Fasten the pieces together and boxthe frame (photo 4; see WEB EX-TRAS). Add shims where there arespaces between the boards and theconcrete footings. Secure the frameto the concrete footings by wrap-ping the mudsill anchors aroundeach board and nailing them inplace with joist-hanger fasteners(photo 5). Be sure to keep the boxstraight and level while attachingthe straps.

Next, cut 10 4x4 posts to 6 ft. 8 in.Using 4x4 joist hangers, fasten onepost inside each corner of the deckframe and the rest of the posts alongthe sides (photos 6 and 7). Drive aledger board fastener through theframe and into each post.

Mark the locations of the 2x10joists 16 in. OC (or 15-1/4 in. fromthe end of each previous joist);then cut all joists to fit within theframe. Be sure that the crown of

each board faces up. (To learn moreabout crowning lumber, see WEBEXTRAS). Conner recommendsnailing the joists to the frame to

An easy-to-build hip roof

makes thisgazebo adoable projectfor any DIYer

BY JENNY STANLEY


3/7 HANDY A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 1 220

Build the deck frame on the concrete foot-

ings, making sure that the mudsill anchors

are prepped to wrap around the boards.

Then ensure that the frame is square.

Secure the mudsill anchors to the deck

frame. A palm nailer works well for

building the deck portion of this project.

4 5Fill the holes and Sonotube forms com-

pletely with concrete and insert a mudsill

anchor into each footing. When the con-

crete is dry, cut away the Sonotube forms.

3

Use nails to attach the 4x4 joist hangers

inside the deck frame.6

ONLINE MATH WHIZ

While designing this project, we discov-

ered a smart (and free!) Web site thatdoes complicated roofing calculations

for you. Go to www.blocklayer.com and

input your structure’s dimensions and

the type of roof you’d like to build. The

site produces the precise angles, cuts,

spacing and other details for all hip,

rafter and creeper boards — no more

head scratching or wasting time and

materials because of mathematical mis-

takes. (Keep in mind, however, that due

to factors such as variations in lumber

dimensions, etc., you’ll most likely haveto make slight adjustments as you as-

semble the roof.) — JS

Cover the foundation with landscape fabric and about 3 in. ofclass II gravel to prevent weed growth.

Dig four holes for the footings and partially fill them with concrete.

Place the Sonotube forms in the holes and check that the centers

are square. Use a laser level to ensure equal height across the topsof all Sonotube forms.

21

Insert 4x4 posts into the hangers and

screw ledger-board fasteners through

the deck boards and into the posts.

7



EASY-TO-BUILD GAZEBO

hold them in place while attach-ing the 2x8 joist hangers (photo 8,p. 22). Secure each 2x8 joist hangerto the frame using joist-hanger fas-teners. (Be sure to drive a nail inevery hole.) If you run into a space

where there isn’t enough room fora hanger (as we did), use shims andlocking screws to attach the joistto the frame (photo 9).

Attach two 2x6 boards (deck-ing blocks) to the ends of the deckframe that run parallel to the joists(photo 10, p. 23). This will providea sturdy surface for nailing thedeck boards in place.

Add the deck boards next. Tocreate a finished look for the perim-

eter of the deck, let the edge piecesoverhang slightly and miter thecorners. You’ll have to notch theedge pieces and the adjacent deckboards with a jigsaw to fit aroundthe 4x4 posts (photo 11). Top the

rest of the frame with deck boardscut to fit within the edging. To findthe right spacing, lay out all of theboards before fastening them. Us-ing a hidden-fastener jig such as theCamo Marksman (see SOURCES

ONLINE), secure the boards to theframe, creating a smooth surface(photo 12).

CONSTRUCT THE RAFTERS

Begin by measuring and cuttingeight 2x4s for the top plate. Se-cure two stacked boards on top ofthe 4x4 posts along each side ofthe gazebo; then add 2x4 supportbrackets to each corner (photo13). Next, refer to the rafter lay-

out (p. 22) to cut the rafters andhips one at a time as you assem-ble the roof. This will allow youto make slight adjustments asnecessary.

Start by creating the four com-

mon rafters (to be installed fromthe center of each side of thetop plate to the center point ofthe roof). Cut four 8-ft. 2x6s to7 ft. 6-3/4 in. Mark and cut theangles for the setbacks and bird’s-

mouths to achieve the properheight above plate (photo 14 andinset; to watch a video clip of thisstep, see WEB EXTRAS). Cut theoverhanging ends to achieve thedesired length and finished edge.Attach the common rafters to aridge, a 6-in.-long x 1-1/2 x 1-1/2-in.piece at the center point of the roof.

Next, measure, mark and cutfour 2x6 hip boards (to be installedfrom each corner of the top plate

to the center point of the roof) oneat a time to make sure you achievethe correct length, setback andbird’s-mouth. Each hip will havea compound miter on one end forsecuring to the adjacent main raf-

ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL ANDERSON

80"

9-1/2"

10 ' 11"

36"

33-1/2"


5/7 HANDY A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 1 222

Check that the crown of each 2x10 joist

faces up. Nail the joists in place first;

then add the joist hangers.

ters and ridge (photos 15 and 16).Cut the overhanging ends to thesame length as the common rafter

boards. To ensure accuracy and tospeed up the process of markingand cutting the overhanging endsof all subsequent boards, Connersuggests adding a nail to the end ofeach hip board (one in each corner)and tying a string across all sides.

Making sure to mark the correctspacing, setback, bird’s-mouth andend cuts for each, continue addingthree boards (creepers) to each sideof the four hip boards (photo 17,

p. 24). There will be eight creepersof each length.

ADD ROOFING

To make the roof panels, welaminated 3/4-in. water-resistantplywood (for the top face of theroof) and 1/4-in. non-water-resistant plywood with a high-grade veneer (for the underside).Creating this double layer preventsthe roofing nails from puncturingthe ceiling of the gazebo.

Use construction adhesive toglue each 4x8 sheet of 1/4-in. ply-wood to a sheet of 3/4-in. plywoodto create eight panels. Once theadhesive has cured according tothe manufacturer’s instructions,lift the first panel onto the bottomedge of the roof framing and screwit in place along the common raf-ter. Snap a chalk line to mark thecut location along the hip; then usea circular saw with the depth guide

set to 1 in. to make the cut (photo18). Use the scrap pieces for theupper portions of the roof. Repeatthese steps until the roof is com-pletely covered with plywood.

Though this is an open-airstructure, adding a vent will helpto allow air and heat to escape,preventing too much uplift underthe roof. After you’ve installed thevent, add the drip edge to the roofusing a hammer and nails (photo

19); then cover the plywood with alayer of roofing felt and staple it inplace. Top the felt with an armor ofshingles (photo 20).

Ridge

C o mm o n r a f t e r

H i p

Creeper

RAFTER LAYOUT

98For spaces where there isn’t enough

room for a joist hanger, use shims and

locking screws to attach the joist to the

frame.



Attach the top plate to the 4x4 posts and add support brackets

to the corners of the gazebo.

Cut two common rafter boards and attach them to the ridge. Fit

them in place along the top plate, making sure that they are at

the correct height above plate (HAP). Mark and cut the bird’s-

mouths (inset) for both boards.

Notch and miter the decking trim boards

and secure them in place along the edgeof the frame.

Add a double-layer of 2x6s (decking

blocks) inside the deck frame at the endsthat run parallel to the joists.

1110

1314

Use a hidden-fastener jig such as the

Camo Marksman to attach the deckingto the joists.

12

15Install the hip boards, making sure to cut the correct compound miters that will attach to the ridge and adjacent common rafters.

16

Bird’s-mouth

Ridge


7/7HANDY A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 1 224

Install the drip edge; use tin snips to cut

the corner.

19Cover the plywood with roofing felt and

shingles.

After assembling the sections of railing,

fit them in place and mark the cuts.

20

21Use scrap pieces of 4x4 to prop up the

railing; secure it in place.

22

INSTALL THE RAILING

AND APPLY FINISH

We chose to use Deckorators26-in. classic-baluster railing froma local home center for this proj-ect. To install the railing, startby attaching the top and bottommetal rails to the top and bottom2x4s for each section of railing.Then screw all plugs in place andinsert the balusters.

Next, mark the cut locations forthe top and bottom 2x4s for eachsection and cut them to size (photo21). Install each section of railingby screwing it in place between the4x4 posts. Tip: Use a couple of piec-es of scrap 4x4 to prop up each rail-

ing section from the deck; this willensure that all sections are installedat the same height (photo 22).

Once the railing was installed,we sprayed on a cedar-color semi-transparent water-base stain fromThompson’s WaterSeal. (To watch avideo of the process, see WEB EX-TRAS.) You can apply the finish ofyour choice. After the stain dries,all that’s left is to furnish your ga-zebo with a couple of chairs and

perhaps a small table or two; thenyou’re ready to relax and enjoy thefruits of your labor.

National Nail Corp. (Camo Marksman)www.camofasteners.com

S O U R C E S O N L I N E

For online information, go to www.HandymanClub.com

and click on WEB EXTRAS.

Attach three creepers to each side of the

hip boards; use nails and string to markthe end cuts for all boards.

17Enlist a couple of helpers to lift the ply-

wood panels onto the roof framing. Use a

circular saw with the depth guide set to1 in. to make cuts.

18

WEB EXTRASTo watch a quick video of

contractor Mike Conner

building this gazebo, scan

this tag or go to www.

HandymanClub.com and

click on WEB EXTRAS.

To watch the completed

gazebo being sprayed with

stain, scan this tag or go to

www.HandymanClub.com


To learn more about

crowning lumber, scan

this tag or go to

www.HandymanClub.com


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