HAIR REMOVAL

CHAPTER 18

Hair Removal

Mastering the techniques of removing unwanted hair will be of great benefit to the professional cosmetologist because most clients have unwanted hair in one area or another

Excessive hair can be extremely embarrassing and unattractive for female clients, especially when found on the face and chest.

It’s important for the cosmetologist to be very sensitive when approaching a client about this type of service

You will want to learn the best ways to remove unwanted hair that cause the least amount of discomfort for the client and create lasting results.

Hair Removal

The technical terms for excessive hair are hirsuties (hur-SOO-shee-eeez) or hypertrichosis (hy-pur-trih-KOH-sis)

Simply, it means hair growth in unusual amounts or locations on both male and female clients that needs to be removed

This problem of excessive hairiness has been around for centuries

History documents that everything from abrasive pumice stones to sharpened stones and seashells have been used to rub off and pluck out hair

Hair Removal

Records also indicate that primitive chemicals were used for his purpose

Egyptians made a compound of mud and alum, which was unpleasant and could pit the surface of the skin

Turks used a combination of yellow sulfide of arsenic, quicklime and rose water, which created a primitive depilatory called rusma

Today, methods of hair removal fall into two categories:– Depilation: removing hair at the skin line such as shaving and using

chemical depilatories– Epilation: removing hair below the skin line such as tweezing, waxing and

electrolysis

Contraindications

A contraindication is any condition or disease that makes an indicated treatment or medication inadvisable

Contraindications

Facial waxing or tweezing should not be performed on clients with these conditions

– Roascea or very sensitive skin– Sunburn– History of fever blisters or cold sores– Presence of pustules or papules– Recent chemical peel using glycolic, salicylic or other

acid-based products– Recent botox or collagen injections– Cosmetic or reconstructive surgery

Contraindications

Medications affecting hair removal services– Retin-A– Renova– Hydroquinone– Blood-thinning medications– Topical or oral cortisone medication– Accutane

TYPES OF HAIR REMOVAL

Temporary – Hair will grow back eventually– Quick and convenient

Permanent – Destroys the papilla – Will not grow back

TEMPORARY METHODS OF HAIR REMOVAL

Shaving– REMOVES HAIR ABOVE SKIN

SURFACE

Tweezing– REMOVES HAIR SHAFT AND

BULB

Electronic tweezers– PAPILLA IS DEHYDRATED &

EVENTUALLY DESTROYED

Depilatories– PHYSICAL – CHEMICAL

TEMPORARY METHODS OF HAIR REMOVAL

EPILATORS– REMOVES HAIR BY PULLING IT OUT OF

THE FOLLICLE

Waxing– Removes hair by pulling out the hair follicle

Threading– Practiced in many Eastern cultures; involves

manipulations of cotton thread, which is twisted & rolled along the skin surface, entwining the hair in the thread & lifting it from the follicle.

Sugaring – As results as hot or cold wax. Involves the

use of a thick, sugar-based paste & is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin types

DEPILATORIES

PHYSICAL– EPILADY

– WAX• HOT

• COLD

• SUGAR CHEMICAL

– NEET

– NAIR

– BIKINI BARE

CHEMICAL DEPILATORIES

CONTAINS AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE PENETRATES INTO THE CORTEX LAYER BREAKS THE DISULFIDE BONDS AND THE

POLY PEPTIDE BONDS DISSOLVES THE HAIR SHAFT REMOVES HAIR AT SKIN SURFACE

PHYSICAL HAIR REMOVAL

Wax is applied to the hair shaft Removes hair shaft and bulb It is like tweezing, but eventually it will

weaken the papilla and eliminate growth Removes all hair, even lanugo hair Epilady only removes the long hairs

PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL

ELECTROLOGY– GENERAL TERM USED TO DESCRIBE PERMANENT

HAIR REMOVAL• By means of an electric current that destroys the root of the hair

Photo-epilation– Intense light to destroy hair follicle

Laser hair removal– Laser beam is pulsed on the skin, impairing the hair

follicle GALVANIC THERMOLYSIS

PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL GALVANIC

– WORKS THROUGH CHEMICALLY AND ELECTRICITY

DIRECT CURRENT– AN ELECTRICAL

CURRENT IS SENT THROUGH A SMALL NEEEDLE THAT IS INSERTED IN THE FOLLICLE

– BODY SALTS CHANGE

THERMOLYSIS– ALTERNATING OR

HIGH FREQUENCY CURRENT

– USES HEAT TO DESTROY THE PAPILLA

Summary We’ve learned that hair is removed by:

– Depilation; removing hair at the skin line such as tweezing, waxing and electrolysis

– Epilation; removing hair below the skin line such as tweezing, waxing and electrolysis

As a cosmetologist you will be asked to remove unwanted hair, especially the eyebrows and facial hair. If you choose to specialize in esthetics, you will want to become proficient in other hair removal services as allowed by the regulatory agency in the state

It is extremely important to follow sanitary guidelines when removing unwanted hair. Never forget to cleanse and dry the treatment area prior to treatment and apply a cooling antiseptic afterwards. Follow all safety precautions to protect client from skin irritation or inflammation