H2O Barrel Rack
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adhesive and screws. Start with good quality 2x6 lumber. Dimension the lumber with a planer to 1.5x5.5", or adjust the 1.5x5.5" notches accordingly. Use construction 3x2 Water Barrel Rack "B" V. Rear 2x6 Posts "E" H. 2x4 Brace Beams 24.000 3.500 "D3" H. 2x4 Top Beams 3.500 81.000 "F" H. 2x4 Support Beams 28.000 3.500 "C3" Front and Rear Cross-Beams 5.500 14.000 9.750 13.115 R 11.750 81.000 26.500 40.500 "A" V. Front 2x6 Posts 28.000 3.500 5.500 59.500 5.500 5.500 1.500 1.500
description
Water Barrel Wooden Rack for holding 55-gallon barrels.
Transcript of H2O Barrel Rack
adhesive and screws.
Start with good quality 2x6 lumber. Dimension the lumber with a planer to 1.5x5.5", or adjust the 1.5x5.5" notches accordingly. Use construction
3x2 Water Barrel Rack
"B"V. Rear
2x6 Posts
"E"H. 2x4
Brace Beams
24.000
3.500
"D3"H. 2x4
Top Beams
3.500
81.000
"F"H. 2x4
Support Beams
28.000
3.500
"C3" Front and Rear Cross-Beams
5.500
14.000
9.750
13.115R11.750
81.000
26.500
40.500
"A"V. Front
2x6 Posts
28.000
3.500
5.500
59.500
5.500
5.500
1.500
1.500
3x2 Water Barrel Rack
(0) Optionally apply sealer/stain to the lumber, before or after cutting it.
(1) Assemble front rack by laying four A's down and placing two C2's and one D2 into their notches. One at atime, remove D2 and C2's, applying construction adhesive to mating surfaces of A's, replacing D2/C2, and attaching firmly with two 2.5" or 3" screws at each joint. Optionally, you can pre-drill each hole with a bit rougly 1/3-1/2 the diameter of the screw, to prevent splitting. When complete, measure both diagonals and clamp as necessary to make them equal; this ensures a "true" (square) frame.
(2) Repeat for the rear rack. Allow construction adhesive to fully cure, at least over night.
(3) Stand front and rear racks up (note that the C2's of both racks are on the front side, and the D2s are on the outsides), and connect with E's, applying construction adhesive to ends of E's. Screws will be attached a45deg angle from above and below, through end of E into A and B. Measure both diagonals and clamp as necessary to ensure the rack is true. Also measure and true the horizontal diagonals between inner corners of A and B. Optionally, you could add E's between the upper C2's.
(4) Optionally allow construction adhesive to cure overnight.
(5) Attach water barrel support beams F, two per barrel notch. Place one pair without construction adhesive,insert an empty water barrel, and note whether the barrel is supported by only F's, only C2's, or both, and adjust the height/offset of all F's as you wish. Placing F's flush with C2 barrel notches, or 1/4" lower, is a gooapproximation for those common blue barrels. Attach all F's with construction adhesive and two screws. Theexact angular placement of F's is not critical; just be consistent.
A
A
A
A
BB
BB
C3
C3
E
E
E
FF
D3
D3
3x2 Water Barrel Rack
The plywood is necessary, to give the rack "shear" strength, so it doesn't parallelogram and collapse in an earthquake or a teenagerfestival and squash your dog.
G3 = 35x81" 3/4" plywoodH = 35x60" 3/8" plywood (a bit less than 60 is fine)I3 = 81.75x30" 3/8" plywood (a bit less than 30 is fine)
(6) Optionally apply sealer/stain to the plywood and the rack.
(7) Attach G3 so it is flush with the front of the front rack, and centered left-right. Use 1.5" screws, and attachG3 to both D3's and all upper E's; don't bother screwing it into the end-grain of the A's or B's, as screws donhold well in end-grain. Construction adhesive is optional.
(8) Attach H's so their top edge is flush with the top of G3, and their front edge is flush with the front of the Aof the front rack. It is good if the H's do NOT extend all the way to the floor; leave more than 1/4" gap, and the H's won't catch the ground and tear, when you slide the rack around your garage.
(9) Attach the upper I3 so its top edge is flush with the top of G3, and it is centered. Ideally it will not extend beyond the H's. Attach the lower I3 flush against the upper I3. It is good if the lower I3 does NOT extend all the way to the floor, so it doesn't tear when you slide the rack around your garage.
G3
HFront
I3
I3 Rear H
G3
2x2 Water Barrel Rack Parts
"D2"H. 2x4
Top Beams
55.000
3.500
"E"H. 2x4
Brace Beams
24.000
3.500
"F"H. 2x4
Support Beams
28.000
3.500
"C2" Front and Rear Cross-Beams
55.0005.500
13.11511.750R
14.250
"A"V. Front
2x6 Posts
5.500
59.500
1.5003.500
5.500
1.500
28.000
5.500
1.500
"B"V. Rear
2x6 Posts
2x2 Water Barrel Rack
(0) Optionally apply sealer/stain to the lumber, before or after cutting it.
(1) Assemble front rack by laying three A's down and placing two C2's and one D2 into their notches. One at a time, remove D2 and C2's, applying construction adhesive to mating surfaces of A's, replacing D2/C2, and attaching firmly with two 2.5" or 3" screws at each joint. Optionally, you can pre-drill each hole with a bit rougly 1/3-1/2 the diameter of the screw, to prevent splitting. When complete, measure both diagonals and clamp as necessary to make them equal; this ensures a "true" (square) frame.
(2) Repeat for the rear rack. Allow construction adhesive to fully cure, at least over night.
(3) Stand front and rear racks up (note that the C2's of both racks are on the front side, and the D2s are on the outsides), and connect with E's, applying construction adhesive to ends of E's. Screws will be attached at 45deg angle from above and below, through end of E into A and B. Measure both diagonals and clamp as necessary to ensure the rack is true. Also measure and true the horizontal diagonals between inner corners of A and B. Optionally, you could add E's between the upper C2's.
(4) Optionally allow construction adhesive to cure overnight.
(5) Attach water barrel support beams F, two per barrel notch. Place one pair without construction adhesive, insert an empty water barrel, and note whether the barrel is supported by only F's, only C2's, or both, and adjust the height/offset of all F's as you wish. Placing F's flush with C2 barrel notches, or 1/4" lower, is a good approximation for those common blue barrels. Attach all F's with construction adhesive and two screws. The exact angular placement of F's is not critical; just be consistent.
B
A
B
B
A
A
C2
C2
D2
D2E
F F
E
C2
C2
E
The plywood is necessary, to give the rack "shear" strength, so it doesn't parallelogram and collapse in an earthquake or a teenagerfestival and squash your dog.
G2 = 35x55" 3/4" plywoodH = 35x60" 3/8" plywood (a bit less than 60 is fine)I2 = 55.75x30" 3/8" plywood (a bit less than 30 is fine)
(6) Optionally apply sealer/stain to the plywood and the rack.
(7) Attach G2 so it is flush with the front of the front rack, and centered left-right. Use 1.5" screws, and attachG2 to both D2's and all upper E's; don't bother screwing it into the end-grain of the A's or B's, as screws donhold well in end-grain. Construction adhesive is optional.
(8) Attach H's so their top edge is flush with the top of G2, and their front edge is flush with the front of the Aof the front rack. It is good if the H's do NOT extend all the way to the floor; leave more than 1/4" gap, and the H's won't catch the ground and tear, when you slide the rack around your garage.
(9) Attach the upper I2 so its top edge is flush with the top of G2, and it is centered. Ideally it will not extend beyond the H's. Attach the lower I2 flush against the upper I2. It is good if the lower I2 does NOT extend all the way to the floor, so it doesn't tear when you slide the rack around your garage.
2x2 Water Barrel Rack
G2
H
G2
H
I2
I2
