Guidlines Packet

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Guidelines to

Maintaining a Golden

Pool

Rev. 2.0

8/25/2016

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Daily Guidelines

Morning

Clean filter basket

Clean skimmer baskets

Make sure the chlorine and acid barrels aren’t empty

Check water levels

Check chemicals and make any necessary corrections

Skim pool surface if necessary

Vacuum pool if necessary

Clean and vacuum pool deck if necessary

Mid-day


Check water levels

Check chemicals (Chemicals shouldn’t be added while the pool is open)

Throughout the Day


Check water levels

Make sure kids are not in hot tub

Don’t fall in the pool!

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CHEMICAL TESTING AND BALANCING

This is just a guide, if you are unsure of what you’re doing or don’t feel

comfortable doing it, ask for help!

GENERAL NOTES:

Only add chemicals one at a time, do not mix chemicals prior to adding them.

The test tube should be dumped and rinsed after every test. Take the water sample using

the scoop labeled “Pool Water” and perform the test by the chemical storage cabinet,

dumping and rinsing the test tubes in the eye wash station.

The testing procedure is the same for the pool and the spa.

Whenever chemicals are added, another test must be performed before opening the pool!!

Whenever chemicals are added, or anything is adjusted, it must be recorded on the

yellow tablet. Write pool changes in black and spa changes in blue.

After adding chemicals to the spa, turn on the bubbles to mix.

Whoever does chemical testing in the morning is also responsible for doing them in the

middle of the day. (Chemicals shouldn’t be added when the pool is open).

After adding sodium bicarbonate or calcium, defoamer will probably need to be added to

the spa. Squirt defoamer along the bubblers while they are running until the foam

disappears.

CHLORINE This uses the yellow lidded bottles.

Pool: A 2.0 or above and below a 10.0 Goal = 3.0 ppm

Spa: A 3.0 or above and below a 10.0 Goal = 4.0 ppm

Testing

Fill the small test tube (on the old comparator whose numbers on the left side go up to

5.0) to the top line.

Add 5 drops of bottle #1 and 5 drops of #2.

Add the cap and invert to mix

Using the white cover sheet on the clipboard as a background, compare the color to the

color chart on the test tube.

Add 5 drops of bottle #3.

Add the cap and invert to mix.

Compare this color and record it as total chlorine.

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Record combined chlorine. Combined chlorine equals total chlorine minus free chlorine.

Record this number as well as the ORP reading (Fig. 1) from the pump room on the

record sheet.

Chemical Corrections

If the chlorine is too low, the ORP gauge needs to be adjusted. See a supervisor before

doing this. Low chlorine is very rare as the electronic feeders pump in chlorine.

o If the chlorine is too low in the spa in the morning, the addition of sodium

bicarbonate to raise the alkalinity will cause the electronic feeder to pump in more

chlorine solving the problem.

o If the settings can’t be changed, manually feed in chlorine using the electronic

sensor. See Fig. 1 Step B. Be careful not to feed in too much as the sensor reading

lags, stop manually feeding significantly before where the set point should be.

Retest once the values stabilize.

If the chlorine is above a 5.0, chlorine reducer needs to be added.

o Pool 7.5 lbs chlorine reducer should be added.

o Spa 1.5 oz chlorine reducer should be added.

Wait 30 minutes and then retest.

pH This uses the red lidded bottles.

Pool: 7.2-8.0 Goal = 7.4

Spa: 7.2-7.6 Goal = 7.5

Testing

Fill the large test tube (on the other comparator tube than the chlorine test) full of water

to the top line.

Add 5 drops of bottle #4

Add the cap and invert to mix

Using the white cover sheet on the clipboard as a background, compare the color to the

color chart on the test tube.

o Note: Many times on the spa, the water will immediately turn deep purple; this is

because of the higher ORP in the spa. Sometimes, if you look at the color

immediately after inverting, it will show an accurate reading before changing

colors.

o Also, the deep purple color change can be slowed down by adding the drops to the

water slowly with a pause in between each drop.

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o If the pH tests turns purple because of the high ORP, try to test it again, it works

better on the second try.

Record this number as well as the pH reading (Fig. 1) from the pump room on the record

sheet


Almost all of the time when the pH is too low (especially in the spa), the alkalinity will

be too low as well. Increasing the alkalinity will also raise the pH. See the alkalinity

section.

If the pH is too low and the alkalinity is acceptable, pH increaser will need to be added.

Add the below amount and mix with water prior to adding to pool or spa.

o Pool: 8 lbs of pH increaser

o Spa: 2.4 oz of pH increaser

The pH will only be too high if something is wrong with the sensors and feeders. If the

settings can’t be changed, manually feed in hydrochloric acid using the electronic sensor.

See Fig. 1 step B. Be careful not to feed in too much as the sensor reading lags, stop

manually feeding significantly before where the set point should be. Retest once the

values stabilize.

ALKALINITY This uses the green lidded bottles.

Pool: 80 ppm to 120 ppm

Spa: 80 ppm to 120 ppm

Testing


to the middle line.


Swirl the tube to mix until it is a uniform color.

Add drops from bottle #9 until the liquid turns completely red. Swirl the tube after adding

every drop.

Multiply the drops added to make it turn red by 10 and record it on the record sheet.

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If the alkalinity is a 70 or below add alkalinity increaser or sodium bicarbonate to raise

the alkalinity level to 100 ppm.

o Pool. Add 12 lbs to increase the alkalinity by 10 ppm.

o Spa. Add 3.5 oz to increase the alkalinity by 10 ppm.

Free chlorine and pH should be measured after adding an alkalinity increaser and before

opening the spa in the morning as the electronic sensors may overcompensate and cause

high chlorine or low pH.

CALCIUM This uses the blue lidded bottles.

Pool: 200 ppm to 400 ppm

Spa: 200 ppm to 400 ppm

Testing


to the middle line.


Swirl the tube to mix until it is a uniform color.

Add drops from bottle #12 until the liquid turns blue. Swirl the tube after adding every 5

drops.

o When the color begins to change, swirl after every 1 drop.

Multiply the drops added to make it turn red by 10 and record it on the record sheet.


If the alkalinity is a 190.0 or below add calcium increaser or calcium carbonate. o Pool. Add 8 lbs to increase the calcium by 12 ppm.

o Spa. Add 2.5 oz to increase the calcium by 12 ppm.

Add the correct amount of the dry chemicals to a bucket. Add water to the bucket and stir

it with the wooden mixing stick. DO NOT ADD DIRECTLY TO POOL OR SPA.

CAUTION: WHEN ADDING WATER THE MIXTURE BECOMES VERY HOT

AND WILL STEAM.

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CAT 2000

This is a generic overview of the system. The guide’s intention is so you can

understand how to work with it, not how to change it.

Fig. 1. The Cat 2000 digital display and controls.

A. The top display is for the pool, the bottom one is for the spa.

B. The feed options and controller are on the bottom of the display. If the CAT needs to be

set to manual, press the feed control button for either pH or ORP (each side has its

respective lights and controls) until the button above manual is illuminated.

a. Once you’re done feeding, press the button until it goes back to auto.

b. If it is ever flashing on the off light, press the controller until the light above auto

is on.

C. If the alarm light is on, it means the pH or ORP value has gone beyond the set range.

When this happens the pump won’t automatically pump in chemicals. A low ORP or high

pH is an example of when you would need to manually pump in chemicals.

pH display ORP display

Feed options Feed controller

Alarm Light

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PUMP FILTER CLEANING PROCEDURE

a. Shut off the two input handles below and to the left of the filters by twisting them 90

degrees (They should be pointing vertically when they are off). See Fig. 2.

Fig. 2. The two input handles in the open position.

b. Turn off the pump by flipping the light switch to the right of the electronic sensors.

c. Shut off the output handle (red) above the filters by twisting it until it points straight

up. See Fig. 3.

d. Shut off the heater input handle (right most orange handle) See Fig. 3.

Fig. 3. The output and heater input handles in the open position.

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e. Turn off the left most and right most red switches on the top electronic sensor for the

pool. See Fig. F.

Fig. 4. The electronic sensor flow switches in the open position

f. Twist open the pump cover and remove the filter basket. BE CAREFUL NOT TO

LOOSE THE O-RING OR SCRATCH THE CLEAR PLASTIC ON THE PUMP LID

g. Clean the filter basket by pulling out the debris and spraying the basket with a hose.

h. Put the basket back into the pump. The hole should face to the left and the basket

should slide down into place.

i. Put the pump lid back on. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO DEBRIS AROUND THE

SEAL. Twist the lid shut.

j. Open the orange handle until it is vertical and twist the red handle below it until it

points to the 30° mark. See Fig. 3.

k. Open the two red handles below and to the left of the filters until they are parallel

with the pipes. See Fig. 2.

l. Once the pump is fully primed stick your head into the attic and make sure that the

“Reset” and “Flow” lights on both heaters are one. If the “Reset” light is off, push the

black button on the back of the heater labeled “Reset.”

m. Turn back on the two switches on the top electronic sensor and make sure that the

flow gauge begins spinning. If it doesn’t try hitting it do dislodge any stuck pine

needles and rapidly turning on and off the switch directly leading to it. See Fig. 4.

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VACUUMING PROCEDURE

a. Remove the skimmer lid, the filter basket, and the skimmer cover from the skimmer

in the middle of the pool on the grass hill side.

b. Connect the long hose (stored in the little cabinet to the left of the chemicals) to the

vacuum head (stored with the hose) and the long silver handle. Place the connected

head into the pool.

c. Take the open end of the hose to the spigot in the corner, make sure the rest of the

hose is in the pool not on the deck.

d. Fill the hose with water, when water starts spurting out, cover the end with your hand.

(This is so that the hose doesn’t become full of air).

e. Place the open end of the hose into the pool side hole in the abovementioned open

skimmer basket.

f. In the pump room close the two red handles to the left and below the filters about

halfway (if the water level in the pump drops below the lid the handles are open too

far). See Fig. 2 for their location.

g. Close the top two red handles on either side of the pool’s electronic sensors. See Fig.

4 for their location.

h. Vacuum the pool. This must be done with a slow vacuuming motion as moving the

vacuum too quickly disrupts the debris on the floor so they can’t be vacuumed.

i. Unplug the hose from the skimmer basket and replace the skimmer cover, the filter

basket, and the skimmer cover as it was prior to vacuuming.

j. Drain the water out of the hose and put the hose, vacuum head, and pole away.

k. Clean the pump filter basket. (See directions on Pump filter basket cleaning).

l. Make sure the electronic sensor switches are open.

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CHLORINE BARREL CHANGING PROCEDURE

a. Bring the new barrel into pump room from plastic shed in parking lot.

b. Slide old barrel to the back and place the new one in front of it.

c. Remove the clear white cover from the top (if it’s there).

d. Twist off the stopper using the special tool (it should be by the barrels in the pump room)

e. Pour the excess liquid from the old barrel into the new barrel (CARFULLY WITHOUT

SPILLING!!)

f. Insert the hoses back into the new barrel and push the black stopper down (IF YOU’RE

TOUCHING THE HOSES YOU SHOULD WEAR GLOVES).

g. Hand tighten the lid you removed from the new barrel into the empty barrel.

h. Put the empty barrel into the plastic shed in the parking lot.

HYDROCHLORIC ACID BARREL CHANGING

PROCEDURE

DO NOT DO THIS. Contact a supervisor.

If no supervisor can be reached: Follow chlorine barrel procedures. DO NOT empty the

excess into the new barrel. Wear a respirator mask and gloves!! Leave the pump room

door open for a while after doing this so it can ventilate.

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WATER LEVELS

Spa Water Level: Fill to right below the top tile line. See Fig. 5.

Fig. 5. The appropriate spa water level.

Pool Water Level: Fill the pool to the top of the bottom horizontal line on the 4’ depth marker.

See Fig. 6.

Fig. 6. The appropriate fill level from the pool. Measured on the 4 ft depth marker.

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WEIR GATE POSITIONING

The weir gates come loose many times due to currents and children messing

with them. They must be put back into position frequently.

The weir gates should be positioned with the foam float facing upwards and towards the

skimmer basket side. The spring loaded attachment part should be pushed as for forward and

downwards as possible. See Fig. 7 for the correct placement.

Fig. 7. The correct placement of the weir gate. The float is upwards and towards the skimmer side.

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Other Notes

Algaecide: Algaecide should be added every two weeks to help prevent algae growth. See the

packaging for dosages as it varies by product.

Cyanurac Acid: Cyanuric Acid is a chlorine stabilizer which helps prevent chlorine form being

burnt out by sunlight. Adding too much of it will make the water cloudy. It should be tested

around once a week, but is only necessary before and after adding a chlorine stabilizer. The

maximum value should be verified with King County, as both 90 ppm and 20 ppm have been

published.

Testing

1. Fill the small clear plastic container halfway with pool water to the 7ml line. Fill

it until the next line (14 ml) with the liquid from the white lidded chemical bottle.

2. Shake it for 30 seconds.

3. Fill the small test tube on the newer comparator with the little bottle until the

black dot on the bottom cannot be seen through the cloudy liquid.

4. Record the number where the water level stops. If it is filled to the top and the

black dot can still be seen, write <30.

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