Bur

gos

Spai

n

UNITED KINGDOM

IRELAND

FRANCE

MOROCCO

PORT

UG

AL

SPAIN

uBURGOS

Madrid

Mediterranean Sea

Dublín

London

Paris

Lisbon

Rabat

Ceuta

Melilla

C O N T E N T S

INTRODUCTION 1

CITY ITINERARIESThe pleasures of contemplation and observation 3From church to church on the Pilgrims' Way 7The grandeur of Castile 9Across the Arlanzón 12In the steps of the pilgrim 13Sightseeing by car 14Other sights of interest 16

SIDE TRIPSThe Pilgrims' Way 17Along the Duero 20The north, the Merindades region and the moors 23The cradle of Castile.The Arlanza area and hill country 27

Local cuisine 32Festivals & folklore 33Map of the Burgos province 34Useful addresses 36

C T U R E S P A Ñ A

Secretaría de Estado de Comercio y TurismoMin ister io de Economía

Text: Manuel FernándezTranslation: Michael D. BenedictPhotographs:TURESPAÑA Photographic ArchivesLayout and design: MegacolorPrinted by: GAEZ, S.A.D. L.: M-21.202-2000NIPO: 380-00-008-3Printed in Spain. 2st Edition

Atla

ntic

Oce

an

Cantabrian Sea

HighwayDual carriagewayNational road“A” Road“B” RoadLocal RoadRailwayThe Pilgrims’ WayParadorShrine-MonasteryCastleMonumentHistorical ruinsCavesCamp siteGolf courseSki resortSpaAirport

Centrally positioned across the northern halfof the Iberian Peninsula, the Province ofBurgos, straddles an area of 14,269 sq. km.

(5,509 sq. miles). Administratively it forms part ofthe Castile & León Autonomous Region, the single

largest division of its kind in the European Union. As a naturalcrossroads, it is an obligatory staging post for all North-Centre andEast-West travel.

Geophysically-speaking the area is a central meseta or plateau, lyingat a height of 800-900 metres (2,624-2,953 ft.), bounded to thenorth and south by the Iberian Peninsula's two main rivers, the Ebroand Duero.The foothills of the Cantabrian Range (CordilleraCantábrica) along the region's northern reaches and the SistemaIbérico Range away to the east lend the terrain in these parts analtogether more rugged character, in some cases taking the form ofhigh moorland wastes gashed by deep canyons and valleys, and inothers, soaring to heights of over 2,000 metres (6,562 ft.).

The climate, while predominantly Mediterranean, is keenly affected bythe area's altitude and inland location. Both features make for coldwinters, with temperatures averaging 3ºC-4ºC (37ºF-39ºF), and shortmild summers, with averages of 21ºC (70ºF). Apart from the mountain areas, rainfall tends to be scant.

Local agriculture is based on dry-farming techniques, with barley asthe main crop.The region's irrigated farmland is found some waybeyond the City of Burgos along the lower course of the RiverArlanzón, and on the banks of the Duero.

Its industrial activity makesBurgos the second leadingcity in the Castile & LeónAutonomous Region, witha further two centres ofimportance concentratedaround the outlyingprovincial town's of Arandade Duero and Miranda deEbro. In passing, mentionshould also perhaps bemade of the Valdeajos oilwells, the first such depositdiscovered in Spain andcurrently in operation.

1El Cid Monument

The provincial capital of Burgos (pop. 166,000) lies in the middle of afertile river bottom fed by the River Arlanzón, which runs throughand divides a city that is otherwise inseparable from the history ofCastile and Spain.

2

The Burgos area can claim to be home to Europe's oldest knownhuman remains, found at the Atapuerca archaeological site a fewkilometres from the provincial capital. A number of digs attest to thepresence of humans in pre- and protohistoric times.Not only is this part of Spain traversed by the Pilgrims' Way toSantiago de Compostela but it positively abounds in historic sites,

witnesses from another ageto deeds chronicled in theancient writings. In addition, itis the birthplace of historicalfigures of almost mythicalproportions, such as FernánGonzález and Rodrigo Díazde Vivar, better known as ElCid Campeador (Cid from theArabic, sidi or seid, sire orlord).

The year 884 marks the firstrecorded appearance of theCity of Burgos, huddling underthe protective might of thecastle erected by DiegoRodríguez Porcelos. In the

following century, Fernán González declared the city the capital ofwhat had been the County, and was thenceforth to be the Kingdom ofCastile, under the rule of King Ferdinand I.

In 1187, Alfonso VIII and Eleonor of Aquitaine (daughter of Henry II ofEngland) founded the Las Huelgas Reales Convent, and in 1221,Ferdinand III el Santo (the Holy) followed their example by foundingthe Gothic Cathedral on the site of an earlier Romanesque structure.The conquest of Granada was to spell the end of Burgos' preeminenceas capital, this status being conferred on Valladolid instead.

Of all Castile & León's provincial capitals, Burgos possibly enjoys thebest road links, making coach or car travel effortless.The city is servedby the N-I, the N-620 and a number of other roads. Arriving by rail isjust as easy, since the city is a junction point for many routes, e.g.,Madrid-Paris.The nearest airports are in Bilbao (158 kilometres/98 miles)and Madrid (237 kilometres/147 miles).

His to ry

How to ge t the re

Courtyard of Miranda House

A visit to this city can commencein many ways, yet perhaps themost appropriate of these is to goto the top of the Castle Hill(Cerro del Castillo), now a park,to get a general overview. The fortifications, constructed onthe orders of Diego RodríguezPorcelos, founder of the primitivecitadel (9th century), speakeloquently of past cultures thatdwelt and developed on this veryspot. From theMirador (1) (mirador;belvedere or look-outpoint) the view ofBurgos as a whole isdelightful, with theOld Quarter directlyahead, Las HuelgasConvent to the rightand the CarthusianMonastery of LaCartuja to the

left... national treasures setagainst a scenic backdrop.

Lying at the foot of the Miradoris the San Esteban Quarter.A gradual descent along thecastle road will bring the visitorinto Calle Alvar Fáñez (calle;street) where a section of thecity wall and the 14th-centuryMudejar horseshoe-shaped St. Stephen's Arch (Arco deSan Esteban) (2) are on view

(mudejar being the term used todescribe the style favoured by theMoorish minorities). Calle de SanEsteban leads south to theChurch of San Esteban (3), a14th-century Gothic edifice witha central nave, two aisles, threeapses, ribbed vaulting, cloister,chapterhouse and an array ofPerpendicular and Renaissanceelements. This church houses oneof the best museums of its kind inEurope, the Retable Museum,embodying a wise decision taken

3

City Iitineraries

The pleasures of contemplation and observation

Ayuntamiento

Castillo

Plazad V

PlazaSan Fernando

PlazaSanta María

PlazaFernando III

Puente deSanta María

i

Avella

nos

Cal

le P

alom

a

F. G

onzá

lez

Hue

rto

del R

ey

A. B

onifa

z

Cal

le M

oned

a

Laín

Cal

vo

ALLE

SA

NTA

ND

ER

Corazadas

Taonas

Esteban

San

Lore

nzo

Calle

San

Esteban

San Gil

Pozo S

eco

1

2

3

45

P

N

St. Stephen´s Arch

4

by the Burgos Diocese to bringtogether retables from a numberof outlying towns and villages forsafekeeping.

A good idea on leaving thechurch is to follow CalleCabestreros as far as theintersection with FernánGonzález, a thoroughfaretrodden by generations ofpilgrims. Here, on the corner,stands the proud andsomewhat haughtylooking Church of SanNicolás (St. Nicholas')(4), attributed to Simonof Cologne (15th-century),its lavish Perpendicular-style stone retableconceived by Franciscode Colonia in honour ofSt. Nicholas of Bari(16th-century). With itsogive portal and squaregroundplan of a naveand two aisles, thischurch is home to aseries of 15th-centuryFlemish panels and a16th-century LastJudgement that make it a"must" for any visitor.

The doorway opens ontoa superb view of thePlaza de Santa María(plaza; square) and theCathedral (5), Burgosmost valuable treasureand an officiallydesignated UNESCOWorld Heritage Sitesince 1984. If tocontemplate it is tostimulate the soul, toobserve it is to give freerein to the emotions. Its history harks back to1221, when the firststone was laid on the siteof the old Romanesque

Cathedral, thanks to the drivingspirit of Maurice, Bishop ofBurgos, and King Ferdinand III.To the right, along this samestreet, is the 13th-century Gothic-style Coronería Door, depictingChrist the Judge flanked by theVirgin Mary and St. John; and tothe left is the neighbouringCastilfalé Palace with its round-

Cathedral

5

arched portal (16th-century), abuilding now serving as the cityarchives but originallyconstructed by the wealthyGauna clan, a family of tradersand merchants.

Taking a turn around theCathedral one comes to thePellejería (Skinners') Door,attributed to Francisco de

Colonia (1516). A few morepaces and one is at the best spotfrom which to view the outerornamental beauty of theConstable's Chapel (Capilla delCondestable), forming thebuilding's east end, and thestunning filigree work of itscrocketed spires, which, alongwith those adorning the towersand transept, are the Cathedral'scrowning glory.

By following Calle Llanade Afuera and CalleDiego Porcelos, twostreets that skirt thecloister walls, thecircular tour continuesas far as Plaza del ReyFerdinand and theSarmental Door (13th-century), presided overby a magnificentlysculpted typanum,depicting Christ as alearned doctor impartinginstruction to the fourevangelists seated attheir desks, with theimage of Bishop Mauriceon the mullion.Surmounting the wholeis a rose window. Taketime out here to gaze upat the transept lanterndesigned by Vallejo inthe 15th century. This,you will agree, is a veryspecial place.

The round-trip of theCathedral exterior comesfull circle at the pointwhere the main façade,formed by the RoyalDoor or Door of Pardon,overlooks the Plaza deSanta María. Overhead,a magnificent rosewindow encircles a six-pointed Star of David,superimposed by the

6

sculpted figures of the eight Kingsof Castile and, higher still, St. Mary, with an inscription thatreads, "Pulcra est et Decora". The entire ensemble is flanked bytwin towers that support the fineopenwork spires designed byJohan of Cologne (15th-century).

After breathing in the atmospherecreated by the external play ofvolumes, the visitor crosses thethreshold of the Royal Door tofind him/herself inside a Gothicedifice, drawn on a cruciformgroundplan, with the one naverunning crosswise and the mainnave and two aisles runninglengthwise, together with anambulatory, 19 chapels, sacristyand cloister. In short, WestEuropean Gothic in all its stylesand forms, magnified by thedecorative devices andinnovations of the Burgos school.

While still at the beginning of thenave, be sure to glance up at the

Cathedral's emblem, the so-called Papamoscas orFlycatcher Clock with itsmechanical figure that strikes thehours.Off to the right, a succession ofchapels follow upon one anotherlike a veritable cascade ofarchitectural fireworks, theirhidden treasures calling for timeand patience. Behind each tomb,retable, railing, grille or sculpturethere beats the heart of a burgalés(inhabitant of Burgos), so that aheartfelt respect for art will be thebest possible ally for a firstreconnaissance. The mostrenowned of these chapels is theConstable's Chapel, a Cathedralwithin a cathedral, housing theCarrara marble tomb of PedroFernández de Velasco, Constableof Castile, and his wife, Mencíade Mendoza. The work of Simónof Cologne (15th-century), thechapel's openwork vaultingsimply radiates fantasy. Whilecredit for the tombs is disputedby three possible rivals -Berruguete, Juan de Lugano and

Cathedral choirstalls

Once again, the starting point forthis itinerary is Calle FernánGonzález, which leads north-westwards to Calles San Gil andAvellanos. Here, standing cheekby jowl, are the San Gil Arch, anold gateway in the city walls, andthe Church of San Gil (6), one ofCastile's prize parish churches(14th/15th-century). Its nave, twoaisles and transept served as acanvas for the Cathedral sculptorsand artists, who left images andpaintings ranging in style from

Gothic to Baroque. Examples oftheir work are afforded by themoving Gothic Crucifix in the

7

Bigarny- the high altar retable isknown to have been the work ofBigarny and Diego de Siloé(16th-century). Putting thefinishing touches to this dignifiedcorner are side retables by thesesame two artists and Gil de Siloé,depicting St. Anne and St. Peter,as well as a grille by Cristóbal deAndino (16th-century).

A further marvel is the GoldenStaircase, situated at the far left ofthe transept and featuring lavishgilded banisters by the Frenchmaster ironsmith, Hilaire, andsplendid statuary by Diego deSiloé (16th-century). The stairshad to be built to compensate forthe difference in height betweenCalle Fernán González and theCathedral. At the opposite end ofthe transept, the scene of Christentering Jerusalem on the Cloisterdoors (15th-century) is yet moreproof of Gil de Siloé's virtuosity.At the east end, the Sacristy brimswith colourful decoration. Thechoirstalls (16th-century) boast

some of Bigarny's most sublimehandiwork, with BishopMaurice's wood and enamelledcopper-plated tomb (13th-century) visible behind a 17th-century grille wrought by Celina.

The culmination of any visit isthe transept over the crossing.The lantern overhead, builtfollowing the collapse of Johan ofCologne's original dome, is Juande Vallejo's masterpiece: a vaultforming an eight-pointed starworked in filigree, rising on fourmassive columns above thetombstones of El Cid and hisbeloved Doña Jimena.

Finally, the central absidal chapelfeatures a retable attributed toRodrigo and Martín de la Haya(16th-century), divided into fourregisters and celebrating thefigure of St. Mary.

There are guided visits to thecloister, nave and CathedralMuseum.

From church to church on the Pilgrims´ Way

Church of San Gil

Chapel of Santísimo Cristo, andthe Baroque retable in the centralabsidal chapel.

On exiting the church, take aquick look around the PlazaHuerto del Rey, meeting pointand "in place" for the city'syounger set, and then return toCalle Avellanos. Heading in anorth-easterly direction, link upwith Calle de San Juan, the othergreat artery of the Pilgrims' Way.Close by and just to the left is aTourist Information Office on thePlaza de Alonso Martínez, site ofthe Army Chief-of-Staff H.Q., abuilding with connotations thatare historical rather than artistic,in view of its past role as the seatof the National Defence Juntafollowing the Spanish Civil War.

Alternatively, a right turn bringsone out at the Church of SanLorenzo (7) (St. Lawrence's) aftera short stroll along the street ofthe same name. Dating from the17th century, its originalityresides in its octagonalgroundplan and delightful dome,

as well as its Baroque retable anda lovely Flemish panel depictingthe Epiphany.Many more surprises are still instore however. Calle de San Juanleads the visitor eastwards toanother gate in the wall, knownas St. John's Arch (Arco de SanJuan). Cross the San Juan Bridgespanning the River Vena andmake for the Plaza de San Juan, akey point on the Pilgrim's Way.Here it was in 1083 thatAdelermo, a Frankish monk,dedicated his life to the care ofthe pilgrim and succeeded inpersuading Alfonso VI toconstruct a hospice. The bestplan might be to take each itemsingly. Rising on the left is the15th-century Church of SanLesmes (8), Lesmes being thecolloquial Spanish form of themonk's name. With its ogiveportal by Simon of Cologne,nave, two aisles, transept andPlateresque choir, the churchinterior houses gems such as the16th-century tomb of the monkwho has since become Burgos'patron saint, and a 15th-century

8

Arlanzón

Ayuntamiento

P

i

Plazadel Cid Plaza

de Caballería

PlazaFernando III

Plaza dela Libertad

Plazade España

PlazSanta Te

Puente deSan Pablo

Puentede Gasset

i

Avella

nos

eCal

le P

alom

a

F. G

onzá

lez

Hue

rto

del R

ey

Calle Azorín

Calle S

an Francisco

Calle S

an Lesmes

Cal

le P

uebl

a

A. B

onifa

z

Cal

le M

oned

a

Laín

Cal

vo

Calle San Juan

Calle

deC

C. Morco

AVENID

A

Ave

n

C. V

ener

able

sS.

Pas

tor

Calle Ramón

CA

LLE S

AN

TAN

DE

R

Trinidad

Arrabal

aonas

San

Lore

nzo

San Gil

Poz

C. Hortelanos

Saéz Hoya

C. Alvar

García

ERRA

DE

ATAPUERCA

CA

MP

EA

DO

R

CALLE

AVENIDA

6

7

8 109

11

P

P

N

retable of the Holy Cross (SantaCruz). Dominating the square isan equestrian statue of DiegoRodríguez Porcelos, and to theright, the original St. John'sHospital (9), which was namedin honour of John the Baptist andof which only the doorwayremains (15th-century). At the farend is St. John's Monastery (10),built over the course of the 15thand 16th centuries, an erstwhileBenedictine abbey, hospital andmonastery converted into aCultural Centre. Its exhibitionrooms house the MarcelianoSantamaría Museum, withcanvases by this local artist(1866-1952) on display. TheChapterhouse, along with theruins of the church, tower andcloister make an admirableensemble and, indeed, what mustbe one of Burgos' most evocativecorners. Located outside theconfines of the square is theformer Bernardas Convent (11), a16th-century structure whichthese days serves as the city'sMusic Conservatory.

9

Leaving by St. John's Arch andturning left, Calle de la Pueblaruns as far as the Plaza de LaLibertad and, with it, part of thehistory of the New World. TheCasa del Cordón (House of theCord) (12) was where theCatholic Monarchs receivedColumbus after his secondvoyage. This excellentlypreserved civic building, itspremises converted into a bank'shead office, was erected by

Simon of Cologne (15th-century)at the behest of the Constables ofCastile. The distinctiveFranciscan cord motif framing thefaçade is somewhat reminiscentof a door lintel. The Renaissancepatio (courtyard or quadrangle)can be seen during office hours.

Walking along Calle Santandertowards the river, one passes the19th-century Palacio de laDiputación (Provincial Authority

Church of San Lesmes (St.Adelelmus)

The grandeur of Castile

Building) and the TeatroPrincipal, a well-restoredconventionally classical edificeon the right, before reaching thebustling Plaza Miguel Primo deRivera and Juan Cristóbal's(1955) El Cid Monument (13), agenuine source of pride to thetownsfolk. Immediately oppositeis San Pablo bridge which, in itspassage across the river, iswatched over by guardian-likefigures sculpted by thecontemporary 20th-century artist,Joaquín Lucarini, andrepresenting personalities whoplayed a prominent role in thelegendary real-life saga of El Cid.

Rather than crossing to the farbank, an altogether better idea isto ramble along the Espolón (14),

a riverside promenade parexcellence and pivotal point inthe city's social life, the origins ofwhich can be traced back to the18th century. This pleasantwalkway leads to the City Hall(Ayuntamiento) and the PlazaMayor (Main Square) (15),redolent with the echoes ofmonarchs, heroes and hidalgos(claimants to noble lineage).Glassed-in galleries and arcadesserve to set off the City Hallbuilding (18th-century) in asquare presided over by themonument to Charles III.Surrounding the Plaza Mayor isthe very essence of the city, amaze of pedestrian precincts andshopping streets, lined withrestaurants and bars where onecan try the Ribera del Duero

10

The Espolón promenade

wines, taste the so-called"medieval" lentils or sampletapas (delicious snack-likeservings), streets that converge at the Consulado del Mar(Maritime Consulate) (16), tothe rear of the City Hall. This18th-century building, nowserving as the Academy of Art,evokes a glittering past, an erawhen this inland city and capital of Castile was the hub of the seaborne trade with theLow Countries.

Nearing the Cathedral again, theEspolón promenade takes thetraveller to the last item on theitinerary, St. Mary's Arch (Arcode Santa María) (17). This, themost beautiful of all the city'sgateways, houses an exhibitionhall and the Pharmacy Museum.Its interior, decorated withexcellent Mudejar coffering andstucco-work, was home to the

Burgos Council until the 18thcentury. The many-turretedexterior, once again the work ofFrancisco de Colonia and JuanVallejo, consists of a centrepieceshowing the Emperor Charles Vattended by nobles and judges,surmounted by the seated figureof the city's other patron saint,the Virgin Mary.

11

Ayuntamiento

i

Plazadel Cid

Plazade Vega

PlazaSan Fernando

zaMaría

Plazaernando III

Plaza dela Libertad

Puente deSan Pablo

Puente deSanta María

i

Avella

nos

Isla

Calle Miranda

Calle Calera

Cal

le P

alom

a

F. G

onzá

lez

Hue

rto

del R

ey

co

Calle S

Cal

le P

uebl

a

A. B

onifa

z

Cal

le M

oned

a

Laín

Cal

vo

Calle San JuanC

ALLE

SA

N

CA

LLE S

AN

TAN

DE

R

Trinidadal

San

Lore

nzo

San Gil

C. Hortelanos

PASEO

SIERRA

DE

D

12

13

14

15

16

17

P

N

Main Square

From St. Mary's Arch, site ofanother Tourist InformationOffice, the bridge of the samename crosses the Arlanzón to thenewer section of the city thatexpanded beyond the walls inthe mid-15th century. Off to theright is Johan of Cologne's 15th-century Gothic-style Church of La Merced (Mercy) (18).A little further on -looking left as onegoes down Calle dela Concepción- is vivid evidence ofBurgos' wealth in theform of the CardinalLópez de MendozaCollege (19), aRenaissance structure,its fine entrance-wayembossed with anheraldic device.Standing on thecorner of this samestreet and Calle San Cosme is theChurch of San Cosme and SanDamián (St. Cosmas and St.Damian's) (20), its Renaissanceportal bearing a splendidexample of Vallejo's work. The church, built in the 15th and16th centuries, is the burial place

of Cristóbal de Andino, the 16th-century wrought-ironworker. On reaching Calle Madrid, turnround and head back to the OldQuarter via the river, though notbefore seeing the 17th-centuryBaroque portal of the Hospital dela Concepción (21) on the right,and the Burgos Museum (22) on

Calle Miranda. Housed in what isBurgos' most elegant Renaissancemansion, the former home ofMiranda and Íñigo Angulo, themuseum is fascinating thanks tothe sheer depth and breadth ofthe collections on show.

Highlights areexhibits from theClunia, Atapuercaand Ojo Guareñasites, as well as theenamelled front ofthe tomb of SantoDomingo de Silos(St. Dominic): in short, anarchaeologicalanthology,excellentlydocumented anddisplayed.

12

Plazade Vega

PlazaSan Fernando

ría Puente deSanta María

C. Burgue

Calle

Calle P

rogreso

o

de

Isla

ecina

do

Calle del Carmen Calle

Barrio

Gim

eno

Calle Miranda

Calle Calera

Calle

SanCalle la Concepción

CA

LLES

AN

PA

BLO

la

CALLE

DE

PASEO

S

DE

LAM

ER

CE

D

18

1920

21

22

P

N

Burgos Museum

Across the Arlanzón

The 15th-centuryChurch of SantaÁgueda (SantaGadea - St.Agatha) (23), onthe street of thesame name, isreached from thePlaza de SantaMaría. Accordingto the epic poementitled "Cantardel Mío Cid", itwas here that thehero madeAlfonso VI swear on oath (the Oathof Santa Gadea) that he had notparticipated in the death of hisbrother, Sancho II. Two alternativesnow lie open to the tourist. The firstis to follow Calles Nuño Rasura andAsunción de Nuestra Señora, pastanother Tourist Information Officeand the Tourist Board, until comingto a group of buildings in the cityextension. These are the Neo-Renaissance Archbishop's Palace, theBarrantes Hospital and SalesianChurch (Salesas), both Neo-Gothic,and the Neoclassical-style LawCourts (Palacio de Justicia). Runningbetween these buildings is CalleAparicio y Ruiz, which leads into thePlaza de Castilla, the formal startingpoint of the Paseo de la Isla (24), apleasant spot to while away the timeand relax. The second option is towalk along typical streets, such asEmbajadores, to get to the Herreran-style Fernán González Arch (25),erected in the 16th century inmemory of the man whose doggeddetermination was responsible forCastilian independence. Returning toCalle de Santa Águeda, and alwaysheading westwards, one comesacross the Antigua Alhóndiga (OldGrain Exchange) (26), a 16th-centurybuilding emblasoned with the coat of

arms of the House of Austria, whencethe longest and best-preservedsection of the old town wall, thePaseo de los Cubos (27), can beseen. From here, an area ofshrubbery and gardens leads to thePilgrims' Way, now known as Callede Doña Jimena, and eventually totwo monuments. These are ElEmpecinado, the name given to J. Martín, hero of the War ofIndependence (Peninsula War), andthe 18th-century Solar del Cid (28),where sculpted shields keep alive thetradition and an inscription reads, ElCid tuvo su casa aquí (El Cid livedhere). Lastly, one comes to St.Martin's Arch (Arco de San Martín),the horseshoe arch through which theLeón-bound pilgrim would havepassed on his way out of the city.

13

Río

PlazaCastilla

PlazaSanta María

Call

Calle C

C. Lavadores

EmperadorSanta

Águeda

C. Eduardo M. Campo

Cal

le A

paric

io y

Rui

zP

aseo

de

Isla

eo d

el Em

pecin

ado

C. Embajadores

Salinas

H

la

AVDA. DE PALENCIACALLE

DE

L

23

24

25

26

27

28

N

Paseo de la Isla

In the steps of the pilgrim

This tour begins at the point wherethe Paseo de la Isla ends. Cross anybridge over the river from the Paseode las Fuentecillas and take the oldValladolid road that skirts ParralPark. Curiously enough, this is apark that is usually fairly emptyexcept for the day after CorpusChristi, the date of the "Curpillo"festivity, marked by a processionthrough the Huelgas Quarter, whenthe standard wrested from theMoors at the Battle of Navas deTolosa is borne aloft. The Hospitaldel Rey (29) quickly comes intoview. Originally founded byAlfonso VIII as a hospice forpilgrims, it now houses the BurgosUniversity Faculty of Law. Thebuilding's 16th-century PlateresquePatio de Romeros and churchdoors, embellished with Jacobeanmotifs, are both "musts".Immediately adjoining the Hospitaldel Rey is St. Amaro's Chapel(16th-century) and pilgrim'sgraveyard, one of the landmarks onthe Way to Santiago.

On the opposite side of the park isa truly memorable sight, namely,Las Huelgas Reales Convent(Monasterio de Santa María la Realde las Huelgas) (30) founded byAlfonso VIII (13th century).Complete with defensive tower andfortified enclosure, its very wallsseem to exude history and art. Thischurch and pantheon of kings -itsnave, two aisles and five absidalchapels, all instances of PrimitiveGothic- possesses a splendidcloister that is a veritable catalogueof architectural styles. There areRomanesque touches and Mudejarsolutions, Morisco-style stucco

(Moriscos were Moorish converts,sometimes known as SpanishMoors) vying with Almohadtechniques... the whole adornedwith Renaissance and Baroqueretables. Pride of place mustnevertheless go to the Chapels ofSantiago (St. James) and theAssumption. The Museum ofMedieval Weavings (TelasMedievales) rounds off theimmense treasure trove that is Las Huelgas Reales.

Follow the avenue of the samename back to where it becomes ariverside drive, heading east alongthe Arlanzón. One can now opt forone of two possible routes: the first,via Calles Carmen and Santa

14

Las Huelgas Reales Convent

Sightseeing by car

Dorotea, to St.Dorothy's Convent(Santa Dorotea), a15th-centurystructure with aRenaissance portalby Simon ofCologne; and thesecond, a little wayahead, via CalleRamón y Cajal to yetanother 13th-centuryGothic jewel. This isSt. Clare's Convent,with its fine retables.Returning to thelongitudinal street -called Paseo Sierrade Atapuerca along this particular stretch- the Convent of the Discalced (i.e., barefoot) Carmelites, the last to be founded by the saint, will soon come intoview on the nearby Plaza de SantaTeresa. The final stage of the routebegins here, running alongside LaQuinta Park and going via Calle de

la Cartuja in the direction ofFuentes Blancas to the 15th-centurymarvel of the Miraflores CarthusianMonastery (Cartuja de Miraflores)(31), founded by John II of Castile.Here, the Carthusian monks lead alife of retreat and prayer. Johan ofCologne's Isabeline Gothic churchis a pure joy, its interior housing awork that is as spectacular in itsfinish as it is singular, namely, Gilde Siloé's polychrome altarpiecewhich, legend has it, was gildedwith the first gold to be broughtfrom the New World. Also on showare two more masterpieces by thisprodigious artist, the mausoleum ofKing John II and Queen Isabel ofPortugal, the parents of QueenIsabel the Catholic, and that ofCrown Prince Alfonso, virtuosodisplays of the sculptor's art.Further treasures include theRenaissance choir stalls by Simónde Bueras, an Annunciation byPedro Berruguete, Manuel Pereira'salmost lifelike sculpture of St. Bruno, the order's founder(17th-century), and a Flemishtriptych depicting the Ascent toCalvary.

15

Miraflores Carthusian Monastery

Sightseeing by nightThe notion that the night is notmade for sightseeing issomething which this city has setout to disprove and dispel.Façades and recesses mayemanate mystery and arousecuriosity, yet lighting somehowmanages to confer that extratouch, an added dimension towhich no-one can be indifferent,even on the coldest night. Thespotlit sights are: 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,10, 12, 13, 15, 16, 19, 25, 27,28, 30, 31 and 33.

16

Monastery of San Pedro deCardeña (32). Situated at the 9-kilometre mark on the FuentesBlancas road, this 9th-centuryabbey, inhabited by Trappist monks,evokes the life of El Cid. Theromancero (epic ballad) relates thatthe hero came here and entrustedhis family to the monks beforegoing into banishment and exile.The building, renovated in the 17thand 18th centuries, still preservesRomanesque vestiges, such as thecloister and tower. The mostnotable features are the El CidChapel, where the nobleman wasburied, the chapterhouse stalls anda series of panels by Juan de Juanesand Ribera.

Church of Our Royal andVenerable Lady of Gamonal(Nuestra Señora la Real y Antiguade Gamonal) (33). Erected in the14th century, the building islocated in the Gamonal Quarter,which acted as an approach routeinto the city in the Middle Ages.

This church became the seat of theDiocese when the bishopric wasmoved to Burgos, and possesses anenormous tower over a portalgraced by a Mudejar doorway anda superb Gothic Calvary scene. The interior reveals a nave andapse drawn on a squaregroundplan.

Visiting times of sights and museums:As opening times tend to changeaccording to the season, visitorswishing to avoid any unnecessaryinconvenience should contact themuseums directly or make enquiries at the local Tourist Office.Retable Museum: w 947 20 37 52Cathedral Museum: w 947 27 47 12Marceliano Santa María Museum: w 947 28 88 68Pharmacy Museum: w 947 26 53 75Las Huelgas Reales Convent: w 947 20 16 30

Cloister. Monastery of SanPedro de Cardeña

Other sights of interest

The Burgos section begins inRedecilla del Camino, the first townin the province to be reached bypilgrims proceeding from the LaRioja region. Chief points of interestare a medieval column (rollo, asymbol of authority), St. Lazare'sHospital and the Church of theVirgin of the Way (Virgen de laCalle), dating from the 17th-18thcenturies.

Keeping to the N-120, one then getsto Castildelgado, with its 16th-century parish church and thefamily seat of the Counts ofBerberana. The next point en routeis Viloria de la Rioja, (a shortdistance from the Way), thebirthplace in 1019 of St. Dominic ofthe Causeway (Santo Domingo de la

Calzada - calzada; causeway orroad), who was destined to playsuch a key role in the Pilgrims' Way.

After traversing Villamayor del Ríoone arrives in Belorado, which has been important as an urban centre since the

Side Trips

The Province of Burgos can be likened to a continent inminiature, affording infinite possibilities for excursions.Nature and history join forces to offer a range of contrastsas appealing as it is wide: verdant valleys to the north, sun-drenched fields to the south, mountains, hilltop castles(it was castillo, the Spanish word for castle, that gave thispart of Spain its name of Castilla/Castile ), churches, palaces...

Virgin of Oca hermitage chapel

17

The Pilgrims´ Way

Middle Ages and features a finePlaza Mayor -arcaded in typicallyCastilian style- castle ruins, theConvents of San Francisco andNuestra Señora de Belén (Our Lady of Bethlehem) and theChurches of Santa María and San Pedro.

The route leads onwards, pastTosantos, Villambistia and Espinosadel Camino to Villafranca Montesde Oca (or Auca) and the nearbyremains of the 9th-centuryMozarabic monastery where DiegoPorcelos was buried (mozarabic; thestyle of the Christian minorities).Until it was moved to Gamonal in1075, the episcopal seat had beenlocated here in Villafranca. TheVirgin of Oca Ermita (i.e., hermitagechapel) marks the spot where St. Indaletius, St. James' disciple andthe area's first bishop, was martyred.

The Way now parts company withthe N-120, to go via Valdefuentes toSan Juan de Ortega, whose12th/13th-century church,completed in the 15th century, isthe centre of attraction at theequinoxes, when the sun's raysflood through one of the windowsand illuminate the Angel of theAnnunciation. From here, the routeleads onwards to Agés, where theparish church provided a restingplace for the mortal remains of King

García of Navarre, following hisdefeat at the hands of Ferdinand I ofCastile in 1054. At the town exitthere is a bridge attributed to SanJuan de Ortega.

Rejoining the N-120, one comes toIbeas de Juarros. Situatedhereabouts is the world famousAtapuerca cave and archaeologicaldig (for information kindly contactAula Emiliano Aguirre on w 947 42 14 62. On the far side ofBurgos, the Way continues alongthe N-120 to Tardajos, a town ofRoman origin with a parish church(St. Mary's) built between the 13thand 16th centuries.

Straying off the national road, theWay makes for Rabé de lasCalzadas, where St. Mary's Churchpreserves its 13th-century portal,and thence, over heath andmoorland to Hornillos del Camino,its town plan reminiscent of theJacobean Age, with an old pilgrims'hospital and two medieval bridges.

A series of towns follows: Hontanas,with a church, the remains of apalace and a medieval hospital; SanAntón, with a 12th-century hospital,where victims of St. Anthony's fire(erysipelas, an acute infectious skindisease) received the Saint's Tau(scapular), bread and wine; and, astone's throw away, Castrojeriz,

originally Romanand one of the greatWayside cities, witha castle, town wallsand churches, thebest of which is theex-Collegiate Churchof Santa María delManzano, built in1214 by Berenguelathe Great. TheMostelares hilltopcommands asweeping view ofthe vast cereal-covered plains

18

Atapuerca archaeological dig

known as Tierra de Campos orCampos Góticos (Campi Gothorum,a reference to the time of theGoths). Adjoining the N-120 areSasamón and Olmillos de Sasamón.There was a time when Sasamónwas the bishop's seat, a fact attestedto by the Church of Santa María laReal (St. Mary Royal), with its 13th-century portal, a replica of BurgosCathedral's Sarmental Door. Housedinside is a retable with panels byDiego de Siloé. Guided tours are

available. Olmillos de Sasamón'smain feature of interest is itshandsome castle.

Itero del Castillo, the last townalong the Burgos section of the Way,sits on the banks of the Pisuerga.This once important frontier outpostretains a medieval stronghold,hospital, 13th-century hermitagechapel and a bridge that was builtover the Pisuerga on the orders ofAlfonso VI.

19Itero del Castillo

Castrojeriz Sasamón

The route starts out from thetraditionally important provincialtown of Aranda de Duero, whoseperiod of splendour began during thereign of Henry IV and rose to apinnacle under Isabel the Catholic.

This dynamic centre of 30,000 soulsattracts a good number of visitors, asmuch for its historical side as for itsfamed roast lamb. Make a point ofvisiting: the Isabeline Gothic-styleChurch of Santa María, its frontagegraced by a heraldic portal andcrowning cornice (15th/16th-century)of major proportions attributed toSimon of Cologne, its interiorconcealing a Renaissance retable;the Church of St. John the Baptist(San Juan Bautista), seat of theCouncil of Aranda (1473), with atruly beautiful portal formed by nineimpressive archivolts; the VerdugoPalace (15th-century); the 17th-century Shrine of the Virgin of the

Vineyards (Santuario de la Virgen delas Viñas) situated on the town'soutskirts; and the Romanesquebridge. In the environs, specialmention should be made of Sinovas,for its Parish Church of St. Nicholas

of Bari, declared a nationalmonument thanks in part to itsmagnificent 15th-century cofferedceiling, and Ventosilla, on the C-619district road. The latter should not bemissed for two reasons. Firstly, thereis the palace constructed by theDuke of Lerma; and secondly,displayed in a private church is alate 15th-century retable of theSpanish-Flemish school, ascribed bysome to the maestro of San Nicolásand by others to that of La Ventosilla.

Heading for Soria on the N-122brings one to the Monastery of theVine (Monasterio de la Vid).Although its construction goes back

20

St. Mary´s. Aranda de Duero

A long the Duero

to the 12th century, when Alfonso VIhad the first small religious retreatbuilt, its high point came in the 16thcentury under the patronage of theCounts of Zúñiga y Avellaneda, whoerected the present church, cloisterand pilgrims' hospice. No visitwould be complete without seeingthe early 14th-century Gothicpolychrome stone figure of Our Ladyof the Vine (Nuestra Señora de laVid). The beauty of the statue's faceis said to be without equal.

Lying seven kilometres (just over 4miles) away on the C-111, is theunforgettable town of Peñaranda deDuero. The Plaza Mayor is more likea stage set for a performance of one

of Spain's Golden Age classics: tothe left stands the 16th-centuryPlateresque Zuñiga AvellanedaMansion; to the right, the ex-Collegiate Church of Santa Ana,complete with Baroque portal,Roman columns and white marblebusts (possibly brought from nearbyClunia); and silhouetted above therooftops directly ahead, are thehilltop ruins of the town's 15th-century castle. More curiosities areon offer in the shape of theapothecary's shop (botica), whichhas been in use since the 17thcentury and is one of the oldest in Spain.

It is well worthwhile to make a shortstop seven kilometres further on (C-111), at Coruña del Conde, to visitthe Hermitage Chapel of SantoCristo, a 12th-century Romanesquestructure with a square apse andblind arches. A mile or so down theroad, a turn to the left leads to theruins of Clunia. This impressive city,which under the Romans had apopulation totalling 30,000, wasfounded at the time of Augustus onthe site of an earlier Arevacisettlement. It was here that Galbawas proclaimed emperor afterspearheading an uprising againstNero. Excavations have brought tolight a string of finds, includinghouses with mosaic inlays, remainsof hot baths and a theatre.

21Peñaranda de Duero

Sights to see in Caleruega, birthplaceof Santo Domingo de Guzmán, thefounder of the Dominican Order, arethe Guzmán tower and Church ofthe Dominican Mothers, founded byAlfonso X on the site where the saintwas allegedly born. Not far off isBaños de Valdearados, where a villawas unearthed in 1972, dating fromthe Late Roman period anddecorated with an enormous mosaicdepicting Dionysian scenes.On the N-I, Gumiel de Hizán retains

its medieval town plan and a parishchurch with an imposing façade.Not only is this church's interiorsumptuous, but it houses a museumexhibiting items of surprising quality,such as a Romanesque madonnaattributed to the Silos school. Somefive kilometres away is theHermitage Chapel of Santo Cristo deReveche, with its Romanesque apse.La Aguilera is home to a fineconvent, known as Domus Dei orSan Pedro de la Aguilera, whichbecame an important pilgrimagecentre on the death of San PedroRegalado. Lining the streets ofGumiel de Mercado are housesemblasoned with coats of arms, twochurches, a hermitage chapel anddefensive gates.

To the north, along the Esguevavalley, are four towns boastinginteresting buildings: Pinillos deEsgueva, whose 12th-century church

has an exquisite apse with pilasterarcading; Terradillos de Esgueva withan impressive 15th-century retableascribed to the Master of Terradillos;Tortoles de Esgueva, with a fortressand torre albarrana (a flanking tower,peculiar to Spanish castlearchitecture, which projectebeyond the walls and allowed

defenders to repel attacks beforethese could threaten the castleproper) and, on the town outskirts,the ruins of the Monastery of SantaMaría la Real, founded in the 12thcentury by Gonzalo de Torquemada;and finally, Villovela de Esgueva,with another monastery, that of OurLady of the Valleys (Nuestra Señorade los Valles), founded in the 13thand rebuilt in the 15th century.

Roa, on the Duero, can trace itsorigins to Roman rule. Repopulatedin 912, nobles, clerics and royaltyonce mingled in these same streets.It was here too that CardinalCisneros died when marching out tomeet the Emperor Charles V. Localsights include Roa's ruinedfortifications and the ex-CollegiateChurch of Santa María.

Perched atop a hill that stands headand shoulders above the surroundingcountryside and overlooks the N-112, is Aza, its rich past stretchingback to the days of FernánGonzález. An importantadministrative town in the 12th and13th centuries, its ruined town wall,escutcheoned houses and medieval-looking streets now seem to standpetrified, engulfed in a sea of silence,mute witnesses to past glories. All that remains now is to return toAranda de Duero, but bear in mindthat in the neighbouring town ofAdrada de Aza, the church retableranks among Burgos' best, and thatin Torregalindo castle ruins arewaiting to be seen.

22

Roman ruins. Clunia

This is an area of densely carpetedvalleys and bleak uplands, of historyand culture, contrasts which providescope for a wide array of activitiesranging from skiing and hiking tocanoeing.

For this tour, set out from Mirandade Ebro, an importantcommunications hub, second onlyto Burgos in terms of population. Itsstrategic riverside location has madeit a gateway between Spain andEurope since ancient times. Items ofinterest here include the Churches ofSanta María de Altamira and St. Nicholas, also known as the Churchof the Holy Spirit (Espíritu Santo).The style of the latter's portal is agood instance of the transition toGothic.

The N-I travels on through theCondado (County) de Treviño, withits promise of: Puebla de Arlanzón,whose church boasts a 16th-centuryGothic retable; Treviño, the countyseat, with its lovely Gothic church;the Romanesque Hermitage Chapelof San Vicentejo de Treviño; andLaño, site of a hermitage dug out ofthe rock.

From Miranda de Ebro, proceedalong the N-I in the direction of Oña

to Pancorbo, ensconced in ascenic ravine at the foot of the

Obarenes hill country.

Miranda de Ebro

Condado de Treviño

23

The north, the Merindades regionales and the Moors

Immediately afterwards, branch offthe main road and go via the N-232to Busto de la Bureba and thence,on local roads, to the TobalinaValley where, on a promontoryjutting out above the river, Fríasraises its proud head. Its origins goback to the 9th century, whenAlfonso VIII repopulated the valleyto bolster the frontier betweenCastile and Navarre. From theheights of its rocky emplacement,the castle affords an unforgettablevista. n the medieval town centre, thereare two sights of note: the Churchof San Vicente (St. Vincent's),still yearning for its Romanesqueportal that was removed andtaken off to New York, and theConvent of SantaMaría deVadillo. Over theRiver Ebro justbelow the townis a strikingmedieval bridge,featuring anunusual andelegantly-archeddefensive tower.

Trespaderne, onthe N-629, is themain town in thedistrict. The roadcontinues on to

Merindad de Valdivieso, with agenerous complement of noblyemblasoned houses and historicchurches of great appeal. Medina dePomar, offers a rich architecturalensemble that includes a number ofchurches: the Gothic-style Church ofNuestra Señora del Rosario (OurLady of the Rosary); the Church ofSanta Cruz (Holy Cross), begun inthe 13th century; the 14th-centuryConvents of Santa Clara and SanPedro de la Misericordia; the oldtown walls; the Veracruz Hospital;and the Alcázar de los Velasco(alcázar; Moorish fortified palace),again 14th century, complete withcrenellated towers.

By staying on the N-629 as far asBercedo and then turning onto the C-6318, one gets to the evergreenMena Valley, watered by riversflowing inland from Cantabria. Thetown to visit here is Villasana deMena, richly endowed withmonuments, such as the Convent ofSanta Ana, Velasco Tower-Houseand Sancho Ortiz House, to namebut a few. Local "musts" alsoembrace the 12th/13th-centuryChurch of San Lorenzo in Vallejo deMena, enjoying the patronage of theOrder of the Knights of St. John ofJerusalem, and the 12th-centuryRomanesque Church of Santa María

24

Pancorbo

Frías

in Siones.

If time permits, it is worth squeezingin a quick side trip to Berberana tovisit Monte de Santiago, declared aNatural Monument. Directlyopposite, the Ortuña Pass mountainhut marks the way up to the NerviónFalls vantage point (Salto delNervión), from which a marvellousview can be had of the limestonescenery of the Sierra Salva Range.Most surprising of all however willinevitably be the height of thedrop... some 300 metres (just under 1,000 ft.)!

From the Mena Valley one can getto Espinosa de los Monteros.Situated on the lower slopes of theSierra de Somo Range, the town hasa rich historical legacy (Churches ofSan Nicolás and Santa Cecilia; theVelasco and Marqués de ChiloechesPalaces, and a good number ofmanor-houses). Just 15 kilometres onis the ski resort of Lunada w 947 12 00 02.

From Espinosa de los Monteros takethe C-6318 to Ojo Guareña, anenormous limestone complex -certainly the biggest of its kind inSpain- that lies contiguous to thethree towns of Merindad deSotocueva, Merindad de Montija

Church. Vallejo de Mena

Hermitage Chapel of San Bernabé(St. Barnabas). Ojo Guareña

25

and Espinosa de los Monteros, andis made up of some 100 kilometres(62 miles) of underground passagesand galleries. The whole wasofficially declared a NaturalMonument in 1996. One of theleading sights in the town of Cuevais the Hermitage Chapel and Caveof San Bernabé (St. Barnabas), wherethe presence of Man and feelings ofreligious awe have gone hand inhand since prehistoric times. Guidedtours are available (Ojo GuareñaNatural Monument InformationOffice w 947 13 87 70).

Villarcayo is one of the grand oldtowns of the north. Partly destroyedin the Carlist Wars, it still retains the18th-century Hermitage Chapel ofSan Roque (St. Roch), themonastery-cum-museum of SantaMaría la Real de Vileña and a fewseigneurial mansions.

Sedano can either be approachedvia the Mazorra Pass, with itspanoramic views of the Merindad deValdivieso (merindad; district orjurisdiction, specifically the regionpolitically organised in the 10thcentury by Fernán González as theseven ancient Merindades deCastilla), or, via a better road thatslowly winds along the Ebro, to seegorgeous scenery and towns, suchas Pesquera de Ebro, Escalada, ahistorical-artistic ensemble,Orbaneja del Castillo, one of the

most picturesque villages in theprovince, reputedly repopulated byMozarabs, and Covanera, alongsidethe Rudrón Canyon and theintriguingly named, "Pozo Azul"(blue well or hole).

Sedano, capital of the ancientdomain known as the "Honor deSedano", possesses a rich collectionof stone buildings in its old towncentre. The surroundings offersingular attractions, including awell-known group of dolmens,Moradillo de Sedano, with itsRomanesque church dating from1188, and Gredilla de Sedano, thesite of another 12th-centuryRomanesque church. En route toPoza de la Sal, the Páramo de Masa(páramo; moor) presents a desolatepicture of rock structures weatheredand eroded by the action of thewind. The valley setting of Poza dela Sal made it a magnet for Romans,Visigoths and Moors alike. Asidefrom the saltpans, the town's castleruins and escutcheoned housesprovide evidence of a moreprosperous past.Oña, which has enjoyed renownsince the time of Fernán González,grew in the protective shadow ofSan Salvador Monastery (St. Saviour's) and Royal favour.Apart from the Arco de la Estrella(Star Arch), the old walls and St.John's Church, do pay a visit to theChurch of San Salvador, where youwill spot a Romanesque window ortwo and a Gothic-Mudejar arch. Theinterior is richly ornamented and isespecially noteworthy for the royalpantheon, where King Sancho theGreat of Navarre and Sancho Garcíalie. In summer the Cronicón de Oña(a theatrical representation of thetown's history) is performed here.The cloister (16th-century) is thework of Johan of Cologne.

Briviesca, capital of the La BurebaSedano

26

27

of the Cortes de Castilla, pre-cursorof today's parliament, was held herein 1387. The town plan is a perfectgrid, in imitation of Santa Fe deGranada. Outstanding buildings arethe Collegiate Church of Santa

María, the Church of San Martín(16th-century) and the Convent ofSanta Clara. The Shrine of St. Casilda (16th-century) houses astatue of the saint sculpted by theFleming, Gil de Siloé.

Lands steeped in history, a historyreflected in towns and monumentsof unsurpassable calibre. This thenwas the mould from which FernánGonzález forged the Kingdom of Castile.

Leave Burgos by the N-I and headfor Lerma. This once pre-Romansettlement started its long ascentunder Fernán González, a processthat was to culminate under theDuke of Lerma (Philip III's favouritefrom 1598-1618). The Tourist Officeruns guided tours of the followingbuildings: the Ducal Palace (symbolof political power), the Church ofSan Pedro, the Piedad HermitageChapel, and the 17th-centuryMonasteries of San Blas (St. Blase),Madre de Dios (Mother of God) and

Ascensión de Nuestra Señora(Ascension of Our Lady). Golf loverswill pleased to know there is acourse nearby.

Church of San Salvador (St. Saviour´s). Oña

Ducal Palace. Lerma

The cradle of Castille. the Arlanza area and hill Country

San Pedro de Arlanza

Follow the C-110 to Covarrubias, a textbook Castilian town, with its arcaded streets and Tudor-like timbered houses. Sights to note here are the Fernán González Tower, better known as the Doña Urraca Tower, and the old Collegiate Church of

San Cosme and San Damián, with

its pantheon of the famous, 16th-century cloister and museum. Be sure to pop into the museum to see one of the most exquisite instances of Flemish Gothic religious imagery, the triptych of the Adoration of the Magi (16th-century).

A matter of few kilometresseparates Covarrubias from SanPedro de Arlanza. Ruins are allthat is left of what was Castile'smost important monastery in the10th century. The remains of thechurch date from the 11th-12thcentury. Until their bodies wereexhumed and taken toCovarrubias in 1841, FernánGonzález and his wife, Sancha,were buried here.

At the base of the crag known asPeña Lara stands the hermitagechapel of Santa María ofQuintanilla de las Viñas, a primeexample of Visigothic art. The eastend, square groundplan and bas-reliefs are all 7th-century.

Santo Domingo de Silos. This gemis the world famous BenedictineMonastery of Santo Domingo deSilos, whose cloister marks a

28

Covarrubias

Cloister. Monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos

29

watershed in the history ofEuropean Romanesque art. Thecapitals are of sublime artisticperfection, matched only by themonks' mastery of the Gregorianchant.

Some three kilometres away in thedirection of Caleruega, is theYecla Gorge, a deep ravinegouged out of the local limestoneby the river as it relentlessly forcedits way through the mountains.Together with the juniper treeslining the Arlanza, the wholemakes for a protected natural areaof outstanding scenic beauty.

The N-234 leads to Sala de losInfantes, the town on the banks ofthe Arlanza where the sevennoble scions (infantes) of Larawere raised and where, accordingto the chronicles of the time, theirdecapitated heads are preserved tothis day. It has two 15th-centurychurches and a sprinkling of noblehouses. On the boundary with the

Province of Soria is Hontoria delPinar, gateway to the Burgossector of the Cañón del Río LobosNature Park information on w 975 36 35 64. Lying outside

Revenga is the High Middle Agenecropolis of La Cerca, while inRegumiel de la Sierra, a set ofdinosaur footprints can be seen.Lastly there is Neila, famous forthe Lagunas Altas Park, with itsmany traces of glaciation andforests of birch, beech and fir.

Other places of interest are:Mahamud and Santa María delCampo near Lerma; Melgar delFernamental on the Pisuerga;

Villadiego, on the C-627; andPradoluengo, on the flanks of theSierra de la Demanda Range.

The Sierra de la Demanda Range

Lagunas Altas Park

Yecla Gorge

30

31

Owing to its vast extent and its proximity to areas that remain fiercely loyalto their traditional cooking, Burgos offers one of the most delicious andvaried cuisines in the Castile-León region. To the north, edging on Cantabriaand the Basque Country, the mountainous locality of Espinosa de losMonteros will come as a pleasant surprise with its sobaos pasiegos (smallsponge cakes), butter, cheeses and quesadas (a type of cheese cake). In thesouth on the other hand, roasts (asados) are the order of the day. Try thecordero lechal al horno de leña (roast baby lamb cooked in a brick wood-fired oven) in Aranda de Duero, Roa, Lerma and a host of towns andvillages in these parts... a truly unforgettable meal when washed down with afull-bodied Ribera del Duero wine.

There is more to come however. Both the morcilla (black pudding made withthe addition of rice, onion and seasoning) and queso fresco, a smooth whiteunfermented cottage cheese made from ewe's milk, generically labelled asBurgos cheese, are famous throughout Spain, as are the caracoles andcangrejos a la burgalesa (snails and freshwater crayfish cooked Burgos-style).

A comprehensive list of all the local dishes is beyond the scope of thisbrochure, yet mention must be made of: olla podrida (a hearty stew ofchickpeas, brisket, ham and marrow bones, pork, black pudding, potatoesand greens) and truchas (trout) from Covarrubias; "medieval" lentils (lentejas)and beans (alubias) from Belorado and La Bureba; loin cuts, hams andsausage meats cured in the hill country; perdices and codornicesescabechadas (marinaded partridges and quails); roast game (caza) andbacalao al ajo arriero (cod served in traditional muleteer style) in areas wheredrovers and their herds still move between the winter and summer pastures.

No table worth its name would be complete without something sweet. Localspecialities include: yemas de canónigos (a sugary egg-yolk confectionerytraditionally produced by convents and monasteries), almendras garrapiñadas(candied almonds), empiñonados (small biscuit-like pastries topped with pinenuts) and the local honey which, with walnuts and queso fresco, is simplydelicious.

32

Roast baby lamb Trout

Local cuisine

And what is one to say of the wines? The entire southern section of the provincefalls within the ambit of the Ribera del Duero Seal of Origin (Denominación deOrigen, equivalent to the French Appellation d'Origine Contrôleé), whoseRegulatory Board is based in Roa de Duero. Reds and rosés of internationalacclaim are made from locally-grown Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot grapes. Quality wines are likewise produced by

January: The feast days of St. Anthony and St. Adelelmus (San Lesmes) inBurgos; La Matanza in Covarrubias.February: Carnival in Miranda de Ebro and Acinas. St. Blase's Day festivitiesin Poza de la Sal.Easter Week: Bajada del Ángel (Descent of the Angel - Sunday of theResurrection) in Aranda de Duero; processions throughout the province,with the pasos vivientes (floats bearing live tableux) of Lerma deservingspecial mention.May: St. Isidore's Day in Salas de los Infantes.June: St. Barnabas' Day (San Bernabé) in Sotocueva and El Capitán in Frías.July: Cherry festivals in Covarrubias and Villarcayo.August: Burgos Province Bank Holiday in Caleruega, and the Day of theVirgin and St. Roch (San Roque) though celebrated in most towns andvillages, are given added zest in Roa, Briviesca and Sala de los Infantes.November: St. Cecilia's Day celebrations in Salas de los Infantes.El Curpillos is a moveable fiesta that is celebrated in Burgos on the Fridayafter Corpus Christi.

In addition, the following fiestas have been declared of tourist interest: SanJuan del Monte (St. John's Day) and Pentecost Monday in Miranda de Ebro;Colacho (a 300-year-old rite, in which a colourfully clad demon chases thevillage children and, by leaping over a mattress bearing babies born during theyear, is thought to safeguard them from ill health) and Corpus Christi inCastrillo de Murcia; Peñas Day in Burgos.

The El Capitándance. Frías

33

Festivals and folklore

36

International Dialling Code: 34

Turespaña Tourist Information: w 901 300 600. www.tourspain.esCastilla y León Tourist Information: w 902 20 30 30. www.jcyl.es/turismo

Castile & León Regional Authority: (Delegación Territorial de Industria, Comercio y Turismode la Junta de Castilla y León)Plaza Alonso Martínez, 7. w 947 20 18 46; Fax: 947 27 65 29. www.patroturisbur.es

Burgos Tourist Board (Patronato de Turismo de Burgos):Asunción de Nuestra Señora, 3. w 947 27 94 32

Companies engaging in tourist activities: Horse and pony trekking w 947 37 02 76. Ailanes Riding Club w 947 15 01 05

Tourist Information Offices:Burgos: Plaza Alonso Martínez, 7. w 947 20 31 25. Paseo del Espolón, 1. w 947 28 88 74Aranda de Duero: Calle de la Sal. w 947 28 88 74Covarrubias: Monseñor Vargas, s/n. w 947 40 64 61Lerma: Calle Audiencia, 6. w 947 17 01 43Miranda de Ebro: Río Ebro, 33. w 947 33 04 71

Useful Telephone NumbersNational Police: w 091; Municipal Police: w 092; Road SOS: w 900 123 505; Renfe (Spanish Rail): w 902 24 02 02; Bus and Coach Station: w 947 26 55 65

Paradors (State-run hotels)Central booking office. Calle Requena, 3. Madrid 28013.w 91 516 66 66; Fax 91 516 66 57. www.parador.es

Spanish Tourist Offices AbroadCanada. Toronto. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN 2 Bloor Street West 34th floor. SUITE 3402 TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2 w 1416 961 31 31; Fax: 1416 961 19 92. e-mail: toronto@tourspain.esGreat Britain. London. SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE 22-23 Manchester Square. LONDON W1M 5APw 44207 486 80 77; Fax: 44207 486 80 34. e-mail: londres@tourspain.esJapan. Tokyo. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg. 4F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKYO-105 w 813 34 32 61 41 - 42; Fax: 813 34 32 61 44. e-mail: tokio@tourspain.esRussia. Moscow. SPANISH TOURIST OFFICETverskaya - 16/2 Business Center “Galeria Aktor” 6th floor. MOSCOW 103009 w 7095 935 83 99; Fax: 7095 935 83 96. e-mail: moscu@tourspain.esSingapore. Singapore. SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04. 238881 SINGAPORE w 657 37 30 08; Fax: 657 37 31 73. e-mail: singapore@tourspain.es

United States of AmericaLos Angeles. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN 8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 960 BEVERL HILLS, CAL 90211 w 1323 658 71 88-1323 658 71 92; Fax: 1323 658 10 61. e-mail: losangeles@tourspain.esChicago. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN Water Tower Place, Suite 915 East 845, North Michigan Avenue. CHICAGO, ILL 60-611w 1312 642 19 92 - 944 02 16; Fax: 1312 642 98 17. e-mail: chicago@tourspain.esMiami. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN1221 Brickell Avenue MIAMI, Florida 33131. w 1305 358 19 92; Fax: 1305 358 82 23. e-mail: miami@tourspain.esNew York. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN666 Fifth Avenue 35th. NEW YORK, N.Y. 10103. w 1212 265 88 22; Fax: 1212 265 88 64. e-mail: nuevayork@tourspain.es

Embassies in MadridCanada: Nuñez de Balboa, 35. w 91 431 43 00; Fax: 91 431 23 67 Great Britain: Fernando el Santo, 16. w 91 319 02 00; Fax: 91 308 10 33Japan: Serrano,109. w 91 590 76 00; Fax: 91 590 13 21Russia: Velazquez,155. w 91 562 22 64; Fax: 91 562 97 12United States: Serrano, 75. w 91 587 22 00; Fax: 91 587 23 03

USEFUL ADDRESSES

Río

Arlanzón

Vena

Río

MADRID 237 km

LEÓ

N 2

1 km

SANTANDER 156 km LOGROÑO 115 km

Convento deSanta Dorotea

Ayuntamiento

Seminario

Castillo

Depósitosde agua

ConventoCarmelitasDescalzas

Convento deSanta Clara

P

i

Plazadel Cid Plaza

de Caballería

Plaza DoctorLópez Sáiz

Plaza de laEstación

PlazaCastilla

Plazade Vega

PlazaSan Fernando

PlazaSanta María

PlazaFernando III

Plaza dela Libertad

Plazade España

PlazaSanta Teresa

Plazade Bilbao

Plazadel Rey

N-I

N-1

20N-623 N-120

Puente deSan Pablo

Puente deSanta María

Puentede Gasset

i

LOSVADILLOS

SAN PEDRODE LA FUENTE

RÍO VENA

LA CASTELLANA

Avella

nos

C. Burguense

Calle SantaClara

Avenida Valencia

del Cid

Calle M

áximo N

ebreda

Calle P

rogreso

Calle de la Legión

Cal

le S

alas

Calle Mirabueno

Calle Santa D

orotea

Calle A

lican

te

Paseode

Lede

sma

Avenida Monasterio de las Huelgas

Calle

Medina

de Pom

ar

Calle Conde Guadalorce

C. Lavadores

CalleEmperador

SantaÁgueda

C. Eduardo M. Campo

Cal

le A

paric

io y

Rui

zPa

seo

de

Isla

Paseo

del

Empe

cinad

o

Calle del Carmen

Avenida HospicioCallede

la

Est

ació

n

Calle

Barrio

Gim

eno

Avda. Calleja y Zurita

Calle Miranda

Calle Calera

Calle

SanJuliánCalle la Concepción

C. Embajadores

Cal

le P

alom

a

F. G

onzá

lez

Hue

rto

del R

ey

Calle de las Delicias

Calle Azorín

Calle S

an Francisco

Calle S

an Lesmes

Cal

le P

uebl

a

A. B

onifa

z

Cal

le M

oned

a

Laín

Cal

vo

Calle San Juan

Calle

de

las

Calzad

as

C. A. C

abez

ón

C. Briv

iesca

V. M

anza

no

Calle Segovia

C. Salamanca

C. Morco

Guardia Civil

AVENIDA

DE

LA

PAZ

M. C

uestaCalle Soria

Ave

nida

del

Ven

a

C. Antonio

Ave

nida

delo

s

Rey

es

Cat

ólic

os

C. V

ener

able

s

Calle M

elchor Prieto

S. P

asto

r

Cal

le S

an F

ranc

isco

Rey

donP

edro

Cal

le P

etro

nila

Calle C

asado

C. F

eder

ico

Olm

eda

Sag

rada

Fam

ilia

Cal

le A

lfons

oX

El S

abio

Calle Cruz Roja

Paseo

de

la

Quinta

Maese Calvo

M. R

icardoDiego Luis Vitores

Calle

del E

bro

San JuliánCarcedo

Andino

Cal

le d

e C

erva

ntes

Cal

le R

oman

cero

Calle

del

Cal

vario

Callede las CortesCal

le

San

Pedro

Cárde

nas

Mateo Cerezo

Calle

delM

olinillo

Calle Ramón

y Cajal

Calle Robles

CA

LLES

AN

PA

BLO

CA

LLE S

AN

TAN

DE

R

Trinidad

Arrabal

Corazadas

Taonas

Esteban

Camino de las Corazas

Franciscode

Salinas

Cal

le O

bdul

io F

erná

ndez

CA

LLE

DE

VIT

OR

IA

CA

LLE

ÁNGEL

GARCÍA

BEDOYA

San

Lore

nzo

Calle

San

Esteban

San Gil

H

Pozo S

eco

Machado

C. Luis R

odríguez Arango

C. Belorado

C. Hortelanos

C. Diego Lainez C. Amaya

Aven

ida

Cid

Cam

pead

or

C. V. Jalón

Saéz Hoya

C. Alvar

García

C. San Jo

sé

C. Martín

ez Zatorre

Gar

cila

sode

la

Vega

la

AVDA. DE PALENCIA

CALLE

DE

MA

DR

ID

PASEO

SIERRA

DE

ATAPUERCA

CALLE

DE

LAM

ER

CE

D

AV

EN

IDA

DE

LC

IDC

AM

PE

AD

OR

Padre Flórez

AVENIDA

DE

CANTABRIA

CALLE

DE

VITORIA

AVENIDA

DEL

ARLANZÓN

N

0 200 400 m

CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35Tel. 91 4167341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2000

BURGOSBURGOS

1

2

3

45

6

7

8 109

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

1920

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

30

29

33

32

31

P

P

P

P

i

THE PLEASURES OF CONTEMPLATIONAND OBSERVATION

City plan

FROM CHURCH TO CHURCH ON THE PILGRIMS´ WAY

THE GRANDEUR OF CASTILE

ACROSS THE ARLANZÓN

IN THE STEPS OF THE PILGRIM

SIGHTSEEING BY CAR

OTHER SIGHTS OF INTEREST

1.- Look-out point2.- St. Stephen´s Arch3.- Church of San Esteban

4.- Church of San Nicolás5.- Cathedral

6.- Church of San Gil7.- Church of San Lorenzo8.- Church of San Lesmes

9.- St. John´s Hospital10.- St. John´s Monastery11.- Bernardas Convent

12.- House of the Cord13.- El Cid Monument14.- The Espolón promenade

15.- Main Square16.- Maritime Consulate17.- St. Mary´s Arch

18.- Church of la Merced19.- Cardinal López de Mendoza College20.- Church of San Cosme and San Damián

21.- Hospital de la Concepción22.- Burgos Museum

23.- Church of Santa Águeda24.- Paseo de la Isla25.- Fernán González Arch

26.- Old Grain Exchange27.- Paseo de los Cubos28.- Solar del Cid

29.- Hospital del Rey30.- Las Huelgas Reales Convent31.- Miraflores Carthusian Monastery

32.- Monastery of San Pedro de Cardeña33.- Church of Our Royal and Venerable Lady of Gamonal

SYMBOLS USED

Tourist information Office

Car park

Railway Station

Bus & Coach Station

HospitalH

Bur

gos

Spai

n

I

MINISTERIO DE ECONOMÍA

SECRETARÍA DEESTADO DE COMERCIO Y TURISMOSECRETARÍA GENERAL DE TURISMO

TURESPAÑA

COMUNIDAD EUROPEA

Fondo Europeo de Desarrollo Regional