Guia Cordoba Cristiana

7/27/2019 Guia Cordoba Cristiana

1/45

CristianaCHRISTIAN CORDOBA


2/45

CHRISIANIY IN CORDOBA

he history o Christian Cordoba is the tale o a city that has evolvedaround the Christian tradition and has assumed its religious duties andcustoms in a perectly natural way. Christianity is a way o lie which, rightup to the present day, has aected the people o Cordoba prooundly and itis still a city where religion, more than just a personal choice, is a culturaland social reality.

In act, Christian belies have evolved with the city over the years, rom thetime o the Roman Empire, when Christianity spread rapidly, up to theVisigothic period, and in Al-Andalus.

However, it is rom 1236 onwards, ater the conquest o the city by theCastilian King Fernando III Te Saint, when we can really speak o theChristian Cordoba which has lasted until recent times.

EL CRISTIANISMO EN CRDOBA

La historia de la Crdoba cristiana es la historia de una ciudad queha evolucionado en torno a la tradicin cristiana y que ha incorpo-rado con naturalidad las prerrogativas y costumbres religiosas. Elcristianismo es una orma de vida que ha calado en los cordobeseshasta nuestros das, puesto que sta sigue siendo una ciudad don-de la religin trasciende lo privado hasta convertirse en un hechocultural y social.Lo cierto es que las creencias cristianas han evolucionado con laciudad a lo largo de los aos, desde la poca visigoda pasando por

el Imperio Romano y al-ndalus.Sin embargo, es a partir de 1236, tras la conquista de la ciudad porparte del rey castellano Fernando III El Santo, cuando se puede ha-blar de la Crdoba cristiana que ha perdurado hasta nuestros das.

ndice /Contents

3 EL CRISTIANISMO EN CRDOBACHRISTIANITY IN CORDOBA

4 EL CRISTIANISMO BAJO DOMINACINROMANA Y VISIGODACHRISTIANITY UNDER ROMAN AND VISIGOTH RULE

6 LOS CRISTIANOS EN AL-NDALUS CHRISTIANS IN AL-ANDALUS

9 LA CONQUISTA CRISTIANATHE CHRISTIAN CONQUEST

11 LOS REYES CATLICOSTHE CATHOLIC MONARCHS

12 LA CONTRARREFORMA Y EL BARROCOTHE COUNTER-REFORMATION AND THE BAROQUE

14 LA DESAMORTIZACINTHE DISSOLUTION OF THE MONASTERIES

14 LA GUERRA CIVILTHE CIVIL WAR

15 DEL FRANQUISMO A LA DEMOCRACIAFROM FRANCOS RULE TO DEMOCRACY

19 LA RUTA. UN VIAJE AL PASADO CRISTIANOTHE ROUTE. A TRIP BACK TO THE CHRISTIAN PAST.

72 LA SEMANA SANTA Y SUS HERMANDADESHOLY WEEK AND ITS RELIGIOUS BROTHERHOODS

74 ROMERAS Y FIESTAS POPULARESCOUNTRY PILGRIMAGES AND POPULAR TRADITIONS

78 GASTRONOMAGASTRONOMY

80 PERSONAJES ILUSTRESILLUSTRIOUS CORDOBAN PERSONALITIES

86 BIBLIOGRAFA BSICABIBLIOGRAPHY

87 DIRECTORIODIRECTORY

87 MUSEOS Y MONUMENTOSMUSEUM & MONUMENTS

89 PLANO GUA MAP

3


3/45

Ater Christianity had been imposed as the ocial religion in the nal centuryo the Roman Empire, it suered the trials and tribulations o the periodwhich began with the segregation between Arianism, brought by the Germanicinvaders, and the Catholicism o the Hispano-Romans. Te issue was nally

settled by the conversion o Recaredo in 586.

During the 6th century, several churches were built, such as the one which nowlies below Santa Clara convent; the Church o Tree Saints (St. Faustus, St.Gerard and St. Martial), which is located under the modern Church o San

Pedro; and St. Vincent the Martyr, which stood on the site where the GreatMosque o Cordoba would later be built.

CHRISIANIY UNDER ROMAN AND VISIGOH RULE

According to legend, the origins o Christianity in Spain can be traced backalmost two thousand years to the evangelization o the Iberian Peninsula inthe 1stCentury AD by the apostle James (Santiago) the Greater and St. Paul.

Corduba was ounded by the Roman general Claudio Marcelo between 169and 152 BC. Te newly ounded city was, rom the very start, the provincialcapital o Hispania Ulterior Baetica. However, the spread o Christianity inCordoba coincided with the shit o the Roman capital to Hispalis (modern-day Seville) under the reign o Diocletian (284-305 BC), as evidenced by theearly Christian sarcophagi which are now on display in the Castle o theChristian Monarchs and in the Archaeological Museum.

I any one personality stands out rom that early Christian period, it is BishopOsio, born in Cordoba in the mid 3 rdcentury, whose inuence was such thatthe most senior position in the diocese is still known as Osios seat.

EL CRISTIANISMO BAJO DOMINACINROMANA Y VISIGODA

La leyenda remonta los orgenes del cristianismo en Espaa ahace casi dos mil aos, gracias a la evangelizacin de la PennsulaIbrica, en el mismo siglo I, por el apstol Santiago el Mayor ypor San Pablo.Corduba ue desde un principio la capital de la provincia

Hispania Ulterior Baetica(Btica). Sin embargo, la ex-

pansin del cristianismo enCrdoba coincidi con eldesplazamiento de la capi-tal romana a Hispalis (actualSevilla) bajo el reinado deDiocleciano (284-305 a.c.),como muestran los sarca-gos paleocristianos que hoyse conservan en el Alczar delos Reyes Cristianos y en elMuseo Arqueolgico.Si hay un personaje central deese primer cristianismo, ue elobispo Osio. Cordobs, naci-do a mitad del siglo III, su in-uencia ue tal que al principalcargo de la Dicesis se le siguellamando la silla de Osio.

Tras haber sido impuesto como religin ocial en el ltimo siglodel Imperio Romano, el cristianismo suri las vicisitudes de unaprolongada Edad Media.En el siglo VI, se construyeron iglesias como la situada bajo elactual convento de Santa Clara, la iglesia de los tres santos (SanFausto, San Genaro y San Marcial) situada bajo la actual iglesiade San Pedro y la Baslica de San Vicente Mrtir, en el posterioremplazamiento de la Mezquita Aljama de Crdoba.

Convento de Santa Clara / Santa Cl ara ConventSilla de Osio / Osios seat

4 5


4/45

Tis climate o tolerance avoured the development o Christian communitieswith a certain degree o internal autonomy in oledo, Merida and, above all,in Cordoba.

In the mid 9th century, things went rom one extreme to the other, as anextraordinary wave o radical ervour hit the Christian community inCordoba and its surroundings: priests and laymen, men and women alikebegan to immolate themselves, publicly insulting Islam and oending thename o Mohammed. Te penalty stipulated or such a crime was death,but it seems that the authorities gave the oenders a chance to recant beoreordering their execution. Te rst documented case was that o St. Perectusin 850, ollowed by others - numbering about ty - such as St. Eulogius oCordoba, who was executed in 859, and St. Paul Alvaro.

CHRISIANS IN AL-ANDALUS

Calculating the population o Al-Andalus during the period o greatestexpansion o Islamic rule (10th century) is a very dicult task, but mostestimates give a gure o around 10 million.

From the religious point o view, the population was made up o eitherMuslims or dhimmi (Christians and Jews). Arabs, Berbers and Muladi ormedthe ruling class and Christians and Jews were among the subjects.

Christian Hispano-Goths living in al-Andalus who had converted to Islamwere known as Muladi, and those who kept the Christian religion were termed

Mozarabs. However, Islam spread rapidly and both these groups soon adoptedthe customs and ways o Muslim lie.

Te Mozarabs and Jews enjoyed reedom o worship, had their own authorities,enjoyed reedom o movement and could be judged according to their ownlaws; in exchange, they were required to pay taxes and were subject to certainlimitations.

LOS CRISTIANOS EN AL-NDALUS

Es muy dicil calcular la poblacin del al-ndalus durante el pe-riodo de mayor extensin del dominio islmico (siglo X), pero secalcula una cira prxima a los 10 millones de habitantes.Desde el punto de vista religioso la poblacin era o musulmana odhimmi (cristianos y judos). La clase dominante estaba ormadapor rabes, berberes y mulades y la clase dominada lo estaba pormozrabes y judos.No obstante, la islamizacin ue muy rpida y tanto unos comootros adoptaron costumbres y ormas de vida musulmanas.

Los mozrabes y los judos gozaban de libertad de culto, tenan au-toridades propias, gozaban de libertad de circulacin y podan serjuzgados de acuerdo con su derecho, pero a cambio estaban obli-gados al pago de tributos y estaban sujetos a ciertas limitaciones.Este clima de tolerancia avoreci el desarrollo de comunidadescristianas con un cierto grado de autonoma interna en Toledo,Mrida y, sobre todo, Crdoba.Pasando de un extremo al otro, a mediados del siglo IX una ex-traordinaria oleada de ervor sacudi a la comunidad cristiana deCrdoba y su entorno: sacerdotes y laicos, hombres y mujeres bus-caron inmolarse insultando pblicamente al Islam y oendiendo el

Vista area de la Mezquita-catedral y barrios aledaos /Mosque-Cathedral

6 7


5/45

HE CHRISIAN CONQUES

Te gradual weakening o the Caliphate and the appearance o the aiaKingdoms led to the all o Cordoba in June 1236 at the hands o troops othe Christian king Ferdinand III o Castile, who was known as Te Saint

or the important role he played in the Christian Conquest (Reconquista).According to Christian sources, at the time o the conquest, the city was intotal decadence.

Tis event marked the beginning o a process o restoration and change in thecity. In a process involving military, religious and economic orces, the new,Christian development o the city took place in two areas o the city that upuntil then had remained practically deserted, mainly or purely deensivereasons: the Axerqua, running parallel to the eastern stretch o the city wall,and the area o the Alczar Viejo (also known as District o San Basilio).

In the 10th century Caliphate o Cordoba, some Jews - as is the case o HasdayIbn Shaprut, advisor and personal physician to Abd al-Rahman III - andChristians acted as advisors and viziers. Many o them participated in publiclie and owned property.

One interesting example is Recemundus (Rabi ibn Zayd), a ChristianMozarab employed as a translator at the court o Abd al-Rahman III, whowent on to become Bishop o Elvira (Granada) and one o the Caliphs innercircle o advisors.

In the late 11th century, things began to change with the arrival in al-Andaluso the Almoravids and the Almohads, who held a more radical vision o Islamand understood that the aith o Mohammed should be spread by means o

orce which was one o the key actors which avoured the Christian advance.

nombre de Mahoma. La pena que automticamente se imponapor esto era la muerte. El primer caso documentado ue el de SanPerecto en 850, al que siguieron otrosalrededor de medio cen-tenar-, como San Eulogio de Crdoba, que ue ejecutado en 859.En la Crdoba calial, en el siglo X algunos judos -como es elcaso de Hasday Ibn Shaprut, consejero y mdico personal de Abdal-Rahman III-, y cristianos actuaron como visires y consejeros,como es el caso de Recemundo (Rabi ibn Zayd), cristiano moz-rabe empleado como traductor en la corte de Abd al-Rahman III,que lleg a ser obispo de Elvira (Granada) y ormaba parte del n-

cleo ntimo de consejeros del calia.A nales del siglo XI las cosas comenzaron a cambiar con la llega-da a al-ndalus de los almorvides o los almohades, grupos conuna visin ms radical del Islam que entendan la e de Mahomamediante mtodos de imposicin orzosa. se ue uno de los pun-tos determinantes para el avance cristiano.

LA CONQUISTA CRISTIANA

Tras el progresivo debilitamiento delCaliato y la aparicin de los Reinos deTaias, Crdoba es tomada en juniodel ao 1236 por las tropas del reycristiano Fernando III de Castilla,apodado El Santo por su impor-tante papel en la Reconquista.Segn uentes cristianas, en elmomento de la conquista, en la

ciudad reinaba la decadencia.Es entonces cuando la ciudad co-mienza un proceso de restauracinyde cambio. El desarrollo urbanopuramente cristiano se desarrollaren dos zonas de la ciudad que hastaestos momentos -en buena medida porcuestiones puramente deensivas- habanpermanecido prcticamente desiertas: la Axerqua, que discurreparalela al lienzo oriental de la muralla de la Villa, y la zona delAlczar Viejo conocido tambin como Barrio de San Basilio). Deigual orma, comienza a construirse en otras zonas del interiorde la ciudad que hasta ese momento haban permanecido dedi-cadas a huertas o corrales.

Crdoba se organiza en torno a 14 collaciones, a las que se les sumuna ms tiempo despus (San Bartolom), cada una presidida por laparroquia que le da nombre (en muchos casos, reutilizando antiguasmezquitas). De stas permanecen hoy en da las iglesias de la Mag-dalena, San Lorenzo, San Pablo de Crdoba, San Pedro de Alcntara,San Francisco y San Eulogio de la Axerqua, Santiago, San Andrs,San Nicols de la Villa, San Miguel, San Agustn y la capilla de SanBartolom. Todas ellas reciben el nombre de Iglesias Fernandinas ypueden visitarse a travs de una ruta creada al eecto.

8 9


6/45

Te nobles stood out among these new settlers - generally second-generationhidalgos (gentlemen) - and in return or deending the vulnerable border withthe neighbouring Nazari kingdom o Granada, accumulated wealth and

power and held the rst manors granted by Ferdinand III.

Ater the initial optimism o the 13th century conquests, with its small-scaleparticipation in the redistributed land, during most o the Middle Ages,Cordoba was reduced to a small town, subjected to immense suering causedby epidemics, amine, rising prices and hunger. Te rst o these major criseswas the rst wave o the Black Death in 1349, ollowed by another in the years1363-64. Tese were years o widespread death and great shortages.

In contrast to its previous centuries o splendour, late medieval Cordoba lostits historical prominence and was oten the scene o internal struggles that thenobles waged to support warring dynastic actions and to deend or expandtheir privileges.

Similarly, other areas o the city which had previously been used as gardens oryards started to be developed.

Cordoba was organized into 14 parishes, to which one (San Bartolome) waslater added, each presided over by the parish church that gave it its name

(in many cases, built overa ormer mosque). Te churches surviving to thisday are La Magdalena, San Lorenzo, San Pablo de Cordoba, San Pedro deAlcntara, San Francisco and San Eulogio de la Axerqua, Santiago, SanAndrs, San Nicols de la Villa, San Miguel, San Agustn and the chapel oSan Bartolome. Tey are all known nowadays as Fernandine Churches andcan be visited ollowing a specially planned route.

Just like in other cities conquered by the Catholic king, ollowing the entry o theChristian troops, Cordoba was emptied o its Muslim population and reoccupiedby settlers rom Castile and Leon, who received the redistributed land.

Al igual que en el resto de ciudades conquistadas por el rey cat-lico, tras la entrada de las tropas cristianas, Crdoba es vaciada demusulmanes y ocupada por repobladores castellano-leoneses, queparticipan en el reparto de tierras.Entre estos nuevos pobladores destacan los nobles -generalmentehidalgos segundones- que a cambio de deender la rgil ronteracon el vecino reino nazar de Granada, acumulan poder y ortunay detentan los primeros seoros otorgados por Fernando III.El cordobs es un pueblo que casi toda la Baja Edad Media estarsometido a grandes surimientos provocados por epidemias, cares-tas, alza de precios y hambrunas. La primera de estas grandes crisisue la primera Peste Negra en 1349, seguida de otra entre los aos1363-64. Son aos de una extensa mortandad y enormes carestas.En contraste con pasados siglos de esplendor, la Crdoba bajome-dieval pierde protagonismo histrico y es, a menudo, escenario deluchas intestinas que mantienen los nobles para apoyar enren-tadas rivalidades dinsticas y deender o ampliar sus privilegios.

LOS REYES CATLICOS

En el siglo XV, con la llegada de los Reyes Catlicos a Crdobapara emprender de modo denitivo la guerra con el Reino de Gra-nada, la ciudad se convierte en cuartel general de las tropas y re-cupera algo de su pasado esplendor.El descubrimiento de Amrica en 1492 se gest durante la estanciaen Crdoba de los Reyes Catlicos, donde Cristbal Coln inicilas gestiones ante los monarcas. La anexin de los territorios ul-tramarinos desemboca en una poca de enorme poder y riquezasy en la creacin del Imperio Espaol, donde nunca se pona elSol, en una expresin acuada por Felipe II.Sin embargo, en esta poca Crdoba pierde su importancia co-mercial, industrial y agrcola y muchos de sus habitantes emigrana Amrica y a la vecina Sevilla, donde se haban desplazado losgrandes negocios.

Cruz del Rastro Saln Alczar de los Reyes Cristianos / Castle of the Christian Monarchs

10 11


7/45

HE COUNER-REFORMAION AND HE BAROQUE

o ght against the Protestant Reormation initiated by Luther, the CatholicChurch reacted with the Counter-Reormation, a powerul response in whichthey reinorced the doctrine, and created new religious orders.

Cordoba's urban landscape still retains many traces o the 18 th century,particularly in the religious buildings that were built at that time. Te RoyalStables were also built then (and rebuilt in 1734 ater a re), as were the Plazade los Capuchinos, the many triumphal columns dedicated to San Raael andnoble palaces such as that o the Viscount o Miranda.

In addition, many estive celebrations grew up around Catholicism. TeCatholic aith was celebrated in the commemoration o the Passion o Christ,which grew into the stunning religious and aesthetic spectacle o Holy Week.

HE CAHOLIC MONARCHS

In the 15th century, with the arrival o the Catholic Monarchs in Cordoba tomake determined moves in the war with the Kingdom o Granada, the city wasused as the troops headquarters and regained some o its ormer splendour.

Te discovery o America in 1492 was planned during a stay in Cordoba othe Catholic Monarchs - Christopher Columbus began the negotiations herewith the monarchs.

Although initially the project o travelling to India via the west - a new routeacross the Atlantic - was considered impractical, the Monarchs nally agreedto und the expedition. Te subsequent annexation o the overseas territoriesled to an era o enormous power and wealth and the creation o the Spanish

Empire, where, to use a term coined by Philip II, "the sun never set".

However, at this time, Cordoba lost much o its commercial, industrial andagricultural importance, and many o its inhabitants emigrated to Americaor nearby Seville, where many o the larger businesses had moved to.

LA CONTRARREFORMA Y EL BARROCO

Para hacer rente a la Reorma Protestante emprendida por Lutero,la Iglesia Catlica reacciona con la Contrarreorma, una respuestacontundente donde se reorz la doctrina, se produjo una rees-tructuracin eclesistica y se crearon nuevas rdenes religiosas.El paisaje urbano de Crdoba conserva todava numerosos huellasdel siglo XVIII, particularmente en los edicios religiosos que seconstruyen en esta poca. Corresponden tambin a este siglo lasCaballerizas Reales (reconstruidas en 1734 tras un incendio), laPlaza de Capuchinos, los numerosos triunos de San Raael y pala-

cios de la nobleza como el del Vizconde Miranda.Por otro lado, encontramos las celebraciones estivas en torno alcatolicismo. En esta lnea de exaltacin de la e catlica, la conme-moracin de la Pasin de Cristo deriva hacia la celebracin de laSemana Santa como espectculo religioso y esttico.

Fachada de la Iglesia de San Pablo /Church of St. PaulInstalaciones de las Caballerizas Reales / Te Royal Stables

12 13


8/45

HE CIVIL WAR

During the Second Republic, the polarization o Spanish politics, which hadbegun in the late 19th century, reached its zenith.

It was then that two dierent visions o Spain were ormed, and this clash o

anticlericalism with undamentalist Catholicism was one o the actors thatled to Civil War in 1936.

HE DISSOLUION OF HE MONASERIES

Dissolution was the main political weapon with which the Liberals couldchange the property laws o the Ancien Regime in order to herald the arrival oa new bourgeois state in the early 19th century.

Te best known episode o the Dissolutions was that which Liberal Minister JuanAlvarez Mendizabal, minister to the regent Maria Cristina de Borbon, carriedout in 1836, and which was later known as the Dissolution o Mendizabal.

All land and non-productive assets held by the Catholic Church or religiousorders, as well as land belonging to the nobility, which they had accumulated

rom regular grants and wills, were sold by public auction to private citizens.Te aim was to increase the national wealth and create a bourgeoisie and amiddle class o worker-owners. However, despite the ambitious scope o thesemeasures, the results were relatively poor, since the church property ended upin the hands o the nobles and the wealthy bourgeoisie.

DEL FRANQUISMO A LA DEMOCRACIA

En Crdoba, la llegada del obispo ray Albino Gonzlez Menn-dez-Reigada (1946) y del alcalde Antonio Cruz Conde y Conde(1951) suponen el inicio de la que se ha dado en llamar la dcadaprodigiosa (1951-1961). Son aos en los que la ciudad recuperaparte del retraso arrastrado desde antiguo. Crdoba experimentaun importante salto adelante en slo unos aos.En la dcada de los 60, las comunidades cristianas de base se ali-nean claramente con la oposicin al ranquismo. Con el apoyo delos grupos catlicos progresistas, una parte importante de la clase

obrera desarroll una poltica muy activa que ue creando, desdela base, una red de resistencia y oposicin a la dictadura.Este caldo de cultivo ue propicio para la undacin en Crdobadel Crculo Cultural Juan XXIII en 1962, integrado undamental-mente por cristianos comprometidos con la sociedad de su poca,cuya actividad consista en realizar conerencias y debates sobrepoltica y religin y que actualmente sigue uncionando.

LA DESAMORTIZACIN

La desamortizacin se convirti en la principal arma poltica conque los liberales modicaron el rgimen de la propiedad del Anti-guo Rgimen para implantar el nuevo Estado burgus durante laprimera mitad del siglo XIX.La ms sealada ue la promovida en 1836 por el ministro liberalJuan lvarez Mendizbal, ministro de la regente Mara Cristinade Borbn, conocida como la Desamortizacin de Mendizbal. Ladesamortizacin consisti en subastar pblicamente las tierras ybienes no productivos en poder de la Iglesia Catlica o las rdenes

religiosas y territorios nobiliarios, que los haban acumulado comohabituales beneciarias de donaciones y testamentos, en avor deciudadanos individuales. Su nalidad era acrecentar la riqueza na-cional y crear una burguesa y clase media de labradores propieta-rios. Sin embargo, y pese a lo ambicioso de estas medidas, los re-sultados ueron relativamente pobres, puesto que las propiedadesde la Iglesia acabaron en manos de nobles y burgueses adinerados.

LA GUERRA CIVILDurante la Segunda Repblica, la polarizacin de la poltica espa-ola que se inici a nales del siglo XIX alcanza su cenit.Se generan entonces dos visiones distintas de Espaa que tenanen la oposicin anticlericalismo/catolicismo integrista una de lasgrietas separadoras que desembocan en la Guerra Civil en 1936.

Hermandad del rabajo de Crdoba

14 15


9/45

hese organizations played a crucial role during the ransition periodand were instrumental in supporting or encouraging the creation o

political parties, both on the let wing (PC, PSOE) as well as in the centre

(Christian Democrats, UCD).Against this background, there emerged the gure or movement o the WorkerPriests, who reused to collect their salaries as priests and worked or a living.In Cordoba, the leading exponent o this movement, which started in Francein 1944 and spread to Spain in 1964, was Juan Perea, parish priest o theChurch o San Martn de Porres in the Sector Sur district.

Tis move coincided with the emergence in Latin America o LiberationTeology, which came into conict with the political and economic powers othe day, as well as with the Vatican itsel.

FROM FRANCOS RULE O DEMOCRACY

In Cordoba, the arrival o Bishop Friar Albino Gonzlez Menndez-Reigada(1946) and the Mayor, Antonio Cruz Conde y Conde (1951), marked thebeginning o what has been termed the "golden decade" (1951-1961). Tese

were years when the city started to recover rom its age-old backwardness. Inonly a ew years. Cordoba took a substantial leap orward.

In the 60's, the core o the Christian communities began to openly supportthe opposition to Franco. With the support o progressive Catholic groups, alarge part o the working class was actively involved in political movements,creating a popular network o resistance and opposition to the dictatorship.

Tese developments provide ertile ground or the ounding in Cordoba othe Juan XXIII Cultural Circle in 1962, which consisted mainly o Christianscommitted to the society o the time, and whose activities consisted o holdingconerences and debates on politics and religion (it is still open to this day).

16 17


10/45

With the advent o democracy, the Constitution o 1978 deined Spainas a non-religious state and the Catholic Church as an institution withwhich the state should have a special relationship, especially regardingeducational matters.

But what may be seen as the most striking change since the latter stageso Francos rule has been the secularization o Spanish society. Economicadvances, emigration rom the

country to the city or to other European countries, the inuence o tourismand the opening up o Spain to the outside world have all been actors thathave inuenced a growing liberalization o customs.

La ruta.Un viaje

al pasadocristiano.

Te route. A trip back to the christian past.

Estas organizaciones tuvieron un protagonismo crucial durante laTransicin y ueron undamentales como apoyo o animacin en lacreacin de partidos polticos, tanto en el caso de la izquierda (PC,PSOE) como en el caso del centro (democristianos, UCD).En este contexto tambin surgi la gura o el movimiento de losCuras Obreros, que renunciaban al salario de sacerdotes y trabaja-ban para ganarse la vida. En Crdoba el mximo exponente de estemovimiento, que naci en Francia en 1944 y se extendi a Espaaen 1964, ue Juan Perea, prroco de la iglesia de San Martn dePorres, en el Sector Sur.

Este movimiento coincide con la aparicin en Amrica Latina dela Teologa de la liberacin, enrentndose con las estructuras depoder poltico y econmico, y con el mismo Vaticano.Con la llegada de la Democracia, la Constitucin de 1978, dene aEspaa como un estado aconesional y reconoce a la Iglesia catli-ca como una institucin con que el estado ha de tener una relacinespecial, sobre todo en asuntos educativos.Pero lo que puede considerarse como el cambio ms llamativodesde la ltima etapa del ranquismo ha sido la secularizacin dela sociedad espaola. La modernizacin econmica, la emigracindel campo a la ciudad o a Europa, la inuencia del turismo y laapertura al exterior, todos han sido actores que han inuido enuna cada vez mayor liberalizacin de las costumbres.

18


11/45

2. Te Royal Stables

Cordobas connection with horses goes back to the 16th century. In 1570, PhilipII ounded the Royal Stables in Cordoba in the ormer grounds o the Castle othe Christian Monarchs, where he created the purebred Spanish horse.

By making various crosses, the Royal Stables produced the purebred Spanishhorse, also called the Andalusian horse, which was o Arab descent andespecially valued or riding.

In 1929 the Royal Stables was declared a National Artistic Monument.Its main eatures are the main stables, with vaulted ceilings supportedby sandstone columns which serve to mark the individual pens, known asboxes, or the arena, with its metal ramework and skylights attributed to theworkshop o Gustave Eiel.

Te acilities o the Royal Stables belong nowadays to the own Hall. However, ater1866 the Spanish army was responsible or keeping up the tradition o horse breeding,and under the control o the Ministry o Deence, it was used as a stud arm until 1995.

1. Te Alczar Viejo district

Te Alczar Viejo district, known popularly as Barrio de San Basilio, datesback to the rst years ater the citys conquest by the troops o Fernando III TeSaint. Ater he took control o the city, the king divided Cordoba into two main

walled areas, the Medina area in the higher part o town and the Axerqua areabeside the river. As part o the citys expansion, in the late Middle Ages, to thewest and southwest, the walled city o Cordoba, which had been built duringthe Almoravid period reusing some o the early Roman walls, was extended inthe 14th century to the west, to orm an area which was rst called the Castillode la Judera (Castle o the Jewish Quarter) and later, the new district o the

Alczar Viejo. In 1399, this large area, as yet undeveloped, was used to settlecrossbow archers and their amilies, who enjoyed special privileges in exchange

or helping to deend the nearby Castle o the Christian Monarchs. Te newdistrict had an improved urban design and each house had its own courtyard,and its most striking eature was the ower o Bethlehem, originally part o thedeensive wall, which later became a shrine with the same name.

1. Barrio del Alczar ViejoEl barrio del Alczar Viejo, conocido popularmente como barriode San Basilio, se remonta a los primeros aos de la conquista dela ciudad por las tropas de Fernando III El Santo. En el siglo XIVel recinto amurallado de Crdoba, construido durante la poca al-morvide -reutilizando parte de las primitivas murallas romanas-ue ampliado por el oeste, conormando un conjunto conocidocomo Castillo de la Judera y, posteriormente, el nuevo barrio delAlczar Viejo. En 1399, esta extensa zona, hasta ahora sin edi-car, ue repoblada mediante el establecimiento de ballesteros deballesta con sus amilias. stos gozaban de privilegios especialesa cambio de ayudar a la deensa del cercano Alczar de los ReyesCristianos. Este nuevo barrio contaba con un diseo urbansticoms estructurado y en l las viviendas disponan de patio. Des-tacan en el barrio la Torre de Beln, que pas de ser parte de lamuralla deensiva a convertirse en la ermita del mismo nombre.

2. Caballerizas RealesLa vinculacin de Crdoba con el caballo se remonta al siglo XVI.En 1570, Felipe II und en Crdoba las Caballerizas Reales enantiguos terrenos del Alczar de los Reyes Cristianos, donde creel caballo de pura raza espaol, tambin llamado caballo andaluz,de ascendencia rabe, muy apreciado para montar.En 1929 las Caballerizas Reales ueron declaradas MonumentoArtstico Nacional. Destaca la cuadra principal, con cubiertade bveda de arista soportada por columnas de piedra areniscaque a su vez delimitan las cuadras o boxes, as como el picadero,construido con estructura metlica y lucernarios atribuida al ta-

ller de Gustave Eifel.Las instalaciones de Caballerizas Reales son actualmente de propie-dad municipal. Desde 1866 el Ejrcito de Espaa ue el encargado decontinuar la tradicin de la cra equina, sirviendo como criadero decaballos hasta 1995 bajo la tutela del Ministerio de Deensa.El Ayuntamiento elabora un plan especial para restaurar la origi-naria integracin con el Alczar de los Reyes Cristianos poniendoen valor el gran jardn, que suma una supercie de 100.000 metroscuadrados, y recuperando unos edicios de gran belleza y valorhistrico, protegidos por la legislacin urbanstica y patrimonial.

Vista de la zona del Alczar Viejo / Te Alczar Viejo district

20 21


12/45

corner, one o which, the ower o the Dove, was demolished in the mid 19thcentury. Te ower o the Lions is at the entrance, which then leads upwardsto the Keep and the ower o the Inquisition.

Te main gallery leads to the Hall o the Mosaics, whose walls are adorned with

Roman mosaics ound in the Plaza de la Corredera in 1959. Te room alsoeatures a 3rdcentury sarcophagus ound in 1958 in the Huerta de San Raael.

Tis room then leads on to the Royal Baths and the Mudjar (Moorish)Courtyard, with arches all around and several water eatures, and then to the

gardens, the ormer Alczar Orchard, an impressive garden measuring 55,000square metres planted with palm trees, cypresses and orange and lemon treesaround rereshing ountains and pools.

In ancient times, the water or these gardens was brought up by the Albolaawatermill, but this was dismantled during the stay o the Catholic Monarchsin the Palace, when Queen Isabel o Castile complained that the noisedisturbed her rest.

he own Hall is preparing a special plan to link the building once againwith the Castle o the Christian Monarchs by redesigning the huge garden,with a total area o 100,000 square metres, and restoring some o the

stunning historic buildings which are now protected by urban planningand heritage laws.

3. Castle o the Christian Monarchs

Te Castle o the Christian Monarchs is a military building, built by KingAlonso XI in the year 1328 over the remains o earlier buildings sinceRoman times, a walled area with dierent buildings in the middle (ortorium)had stood here.

Behind the sombre aade o the Castle, or Alczar, lie Mudjar-style gardensand courtyards, and the whole area is a shaped like a ortress with the buildingand gardens inside. It orms almost a perect square, with a tower on each

3. Alczar de los Reyes CristianosEl Alczar de los Reyes Cristianos, un edicio de carcter militar,ue construido por orden del rey Alonso XI en el ao 1328 sobrelos restos de otras construcciones anteriores, ya que desde pocaromana exista un recinto amurallado con dierentes edicacionesen su interior (ortorium).El Alczar es un conjunto sobrio, con jardines y patios de tradicinmudjar, que presenta una planta de ortaleza en cuyo interior seencuentra el edicio y los jardines. Su orma es casi cuadrada, re-matada con cuatro torres; una de ellas, la de la Paloma, ue demo-lida a mediados del siglo pasado. Al recinto se accede por la Torrede los Leones y de all se llega a los distintos accesos para subir a laTorre del Homenaje y de la Inquisicin.

Desde la galera principal se entra al Saln de los Mosaicos, en cu-yas paredes pueden apreciarse los mosaicos romanos descubiertosbajo la plaza de la Corredera en 1959. Destaca tambin un sarca-go del siglo III hallado en 1958 en la Huerta de San Raael.Desde este saln se accede a los Baos Reales y al Patio Mo-risco (denominado tambin Mudjar), rodeado de arcos conabundantes elementos relacionados con el agua; a travs de estepatio se llega a los jardines, la antigua Huerta del Alczar, unimpresionante vergel de 55.000 metros cuadrados poblado porpalmeras, cipreses, naranjos y limoneros, en torno a rerescan-

tes uentes y albercas.Antiguamente estos jardines eran regados gracias a la noria de laAlbolaa, que hubo de ser desmontada durante la estancia de losReyes Catlicos en el Alczar, pues el ruido que produca impedael descanso de la reina Isabel de Castilla.A partir de 1482 se utiliz como cuartel general de las tropas de losReyes Catlicos, que trasladaron la corte a Crdoba y, desde aqu,organizaron la estrategia de la conquista del Reino de Granada, l-timo reducto islmico en Espaa. De hecho, se cuenta que en estelugar permaneci preso el rey moro de Granada, Boabdil.En una de sus salas, la reina Isabel La Catlica dict la Ley delas Holgazanas, que privaba a las mujeres cordobesas de susbienes gananciales. El motivo ue que a la reina le llam mu-cho la atencin la cantidad de mujeres que se concentrabacada da rente al Alczar de los Reyes Cristianos esperando aque se asomara por alguna de las ventanas para poder verla.La reina, cansada de tanto jaleo a las puertas del Alczar, pregunta qu se dedicaban estas mujeres y si les ayudaban a sus maridos asostener las cargas amiliares. La respuesta de las cordobesas ueque no, ya que tenan a sus maridos para que se ocuparan de eso.

Jardines del Alczar de los Reyes Cristianos /Castle of the Christian Monarchs

22 23


13/45

Alczar de los Reyes Cristianos /Castle of the Christian Monarchs

hoping to catch a glimpse o the queen in one o the windows. Te queen, tiredo the constant comings and goings at the Alczar gates, asked what thesewomen did or a living and whether they helped their husbands to support thehousehold. Te Cordoban womens reply was that they certainly didnt itwas their husbands job to see to that.

Isabel La Catlica was beside hersel with rage on hearing the reply andretorted: "I they dont help to earn money, they should not enjoy it", orderingthat every married woman in Cordoba should be deprived o their right toinherit matrimonial property on the death o their husbands.

As a result, or many years ater this, Cordoban women used to travel to thenearby town o Alcolea (which is now part o the Cordoba suburbs) to getmarried, until the law was abolished by King Carlos IV in 1801.

Following the departure o the Catholic Monarchs, the building becameproperty o the ribunal o the Inquisition, which was based there until its

Ater the capture o the city, Fernando III Te Saint marked o the south-west corner o the Andalusi (Arabic) castle as the site o a uture royalresidence, but it was not until the reign o Alonso XI Te Justice Giver thatthe building was extended and took on the appearance o the castle whichwe recognise today.

From 1482, it was used as military headquarters o the Catholic Monarchs,who had moved their court to Cordoba and, rom here, planned their strategy

or the conquest o the Kingdom o Granada, the last Muslim stronghold inSpain. In act, there is a story that Moorish king o Granada, Boabdil waskept prisoner here.

In one o the halls, Queen Isabel La Catlica passed the Law o Idle Women,which conscated the inheritances o all Cordoban women.

Te story goes that the queen passed the law ater observing the large crowd owomen who gathered each day outside the Castle o the Christian Monarchs,

Isabel La Catlica,colrica, al or di-cha respuesta dijo:Pues si no ayudana ganarlo, tampocodeben disrutar deello y establecique toda mujer ca-sada en Crdobano tendra derecho

a los bienes ganan-ciales a la muerte desus maridos.Por ese motivo, du-rante mucho tiempolas cordobesas ibana casarse a Alcolea,un pueblo muy cer-cano a la capital yque hoy es un barriode Crdoba. El rey Carlos IV aboli esta ley en 1801.Tras la marcha de los Reyes Catlicos, el edicio pas a manosdel Tribunal de la Inquisicin, que tuvo all su sede hasta su abo-licin en 1834. Se acometen entonces grandes reormas paraacondicionarle mazmorra y calabozos, lo que le hace perder sucarcter palaciego.Tras la abolicin de la Inquisicin, se convirti en crcel civilhasta que en el ao 1931, se destin a instalaciones militares.Durante la Guerra Civil uncion como prisin y lugar de ejecu-cin y, desde 1955, pertenece al Ayuntamiento de Crdoba y a sured municipal de museos.

24 25


14/45

In the mid nineteen-eighties, part o this complex was turned into the DiocesanMuseum, which houses much o the Church o Cordobas artistic heritage,with a collection including paintings, tapestries and sculptures dating romthe Middle Ages to modern times.

5. St. Sebastian Hospital. Congress PalaceTe current site o the Congress Palace in Calle orrijos was built in 1512as the St. Sebastian Hospital, by the architect Hernn Ruiz the Elder at therequest o the Brotherhood o St. Sebastian. Tey needed a new site to carryout their work treating mental patients and inectious illnesses, to which theyadded, in the 19th century, the role o a hospice or abandoned children -hence the name House o the Foundlings or House o the Cradle. Te wealthy

Juan Fernndez de Crdoba sponsored the new hospital project, with theencouragement o St . John o Avila.

In 1880, it passed into the hands o the Provincial Government, but continuedas a maternity hospital until 1960, when it was closed or two decades. Te

abolition in 1834. Major reorms took place then to build dungeons and cells,and many o the original palace eatures were destroyed.

Ater the abolition o the Inquisition, it became a state prison until the year1931, when it was used as a military base. During the Civil War, it was used

as a prison and site o executions, and, since 1955, it has belonged to Cordobaown Hall and its municipal network o museums.

4. Episcopal Palace and Seminar y o San Pelagio (St. Pelagius)

Te Episcopal Palace and the Seminary o St. Pelagius are situated inCalle orrijos, both built on the site o an old Andalusi (Arabic) Castle, theheadquarters o the Emirs and Caliphs o al-Andalus rom the arrival o

Muslims in the 8 th century up to the Christian conquest o the city. All thatremains o the old castle is the Arabic Baths in the Plaza del Campo Santo delos Mrtires, and part o the wall that went round the perimeter, whose towersare still visible in the Renaissance acade.

4. Palacio Episcopal y Seminario de San PelagioEn la calle Torrijos se en-cuentran el Palacio Epis-copal y el Seminario deSan Pelagio, que ueronedicados sobre el anti-guo Alczar Andalus, lasede de los emires y cali-as de al-ndalus. De stean perviven los Baosdel Alczar Calial en la

plaza del Campo Santo delos Mrtires, adems de lamuralla que delimitaba elconjunto, cuyos torreonesan son visibles en la a-chada renacentista.La primera reorma im-portante del palacio serealiz en el siglo XV, conuna construccin de estilogtico ojival. En 1745, suri un gran incendio que hizo que du-rante ese siglo y el siguiente, se le aadieron otras dependencias,como la achada en la plaza del Campo de los Santos Mrtires, delsiglo XVII, as como un patio, en el XVIII.A mediados de los aos ochenta una parte de este complejo seconvirti en el Museo Diocesano, que rene gran parte del pa-trimonio artstico de la iglesia de Crdoba, con una coleccinque incluye pinturas, tapices y esculturas desde la Edad Mediahasta nuestros das.

Patio del museo Diocesano

Palacio Episcopal /Episcopal Palace

5. Hospital de San Sebastin. Palacio de CongresosLa actual sede del Palacio de Congresos en la calle Torrijos ueconstruida en 1512 como Hospital de San Sebastin, a peticin dela Corada de San Sebastin para llevar a cabo su labor de ocu-parse de enermos dementes y contagiados, a la que se le uni, enel siglo XIX, la uncin de centro de recogida de nios abando-nados, de ah que se la conociese como Casa de los Expsitos oCasa Cuna.En 1880 pas a la Diputacin Provincial, pero sigui como hospi-tal maternal hasta 1960, momento en que se clausur durante dosdcadas. El edicio conserva parte de su estructura original pero

respecto a la decoracin mantiene una mezcla de gtico, mudjare incluso renacimiento italiano. Destaca su portada, a pesar deldeterioro de la piedra.

26 27


15/45

the Christian ones, which transormed what had ormerly been the mainreligious centre and place o public worship or the whole o al-Andalus intoa Catholic church.

Under Visigothic rule, the Basilica o the Martyr St. Vincent had stood built

on this very same site, and the Aljama (Great) Mosque o Cordoba was laterbuilt over it. For a while, the basilica was shared by Christians and Muslims,but when the Muslim population grew, the church was demolished by the

rst Emir o the Emirate o Cordoba, Abd al-Rahman I, in order to construct,rom the year 785 onwards, the main mosque or the city and the whole oal-Andalus. Some remains o the primitive Basilica o the Martyr St. Vincentwere excavated in the rst hal o 20th century and have recently been includedas a eature o the current Mosque-Cathedral.

Te Great Mosque has two distinct areas, the courtyard or sahn with aportico, where the minaret was built, and the prayer room, or haram. Teinterior is arranged like a orest o bi-coloured columns and arches with an

building retains some o its original structure but the decoration has a mix oGothic, Moorish and even Italian Renaissance styles. Te most striking eatureis the entrance, despite the deteriorated state o the stone work.

6. Mosque-Cathedral, ormerly Basilica o San Vicente Mrtir(St. Vincent the Martyr)

Te ancient Mosque o Cordoba, which was converted in the 13th century intothe Cathedral o Santa Maria o Cordoba, is not only the most important

Islamic monument in the Western world but also one o the most impressivemonuments in the whole world, It was declared a World Heritage Site byUNESCO on 2ndNovember 1984, and its history traces the complete evolutiono the Umayyad style in Spain, as well as the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque

styles o the Christian era.

Te building, as we know it today, rests on 850 columns joined by 365 double-level arches, and is the result o at least ve major building works, including

6. Mezquita-Catedral,antigua baslica de San Vicente MrtirLa antigua Mezquita de Crdoba, convertida en el siglo XIII enla actual Catedral de Santa Mara de Crdoba, es el monumentoms importante de todo el Occidente islmico y uno de los msasombrosos del mundo, declarada Patrimonio de la Humanidadpor la UNESCO el 2 de noviembre de 1984. En su historia se re-sume la evolucin completa del estilo omeya en Espaa, ademsde los estilos gtico, renacentista y barroco de la era cristiana.El edicio, tal y como se conoce hoy da, sustentado sobre 850columnas unidas por 365 arcadas de dos pisos, es el resultado

de, al menos, cinco grandes intervenciones, incluida la realizadapor el cristianismo, que acab por convertir el que uera el centroreligioso y, en gran medida, pblico de todo al-ndalus en untemplo de culto catlico.Bajo la dominacin visigoda se construy en este mismo solarla baslica de San Vicente Mrtir, sobre la que posteriormente seedic la Mezquita Aljama o Mayor de Crdoba. El uso de estabaslica ue compartido por los cristianos y musulmanes duran-te un tiempo. Cuando la poblacin musulmana ue creciendo, labaslica ue mandada destruir por el primer emir del Emirato deCrdoba, Abd al-Rahman I, para la construccin de la mezquitaprincipal de la ciudad y de todo al-ndalus a partir del 785. Partede los restos de la primitiva baslica de San Vicente Mrtir, exca-vados en la primera mitad del siglo pasado, han quedado recien-temente integrados en la actual Mezquita-Catedral.La gran Mezquita consta de dos zonas dierenciadas, el patio osahn porticado, donde se levanta el alminar y la sala de oracin oharam. El espacio interior se dispone sobre un concierto de co-lumnas y arcadas bicolores de gran eecto cromtico.

Interior Mezquita-catedral. Retablo y capilla mayor /Mosque-Cathedral

28 29


16/45

It is said that when Empero r Charles V, who had given permission orthe building, visited Cordoba, he looked worried and declared: "I I hadknown what was here, I would never have dared touch the old building.You have destroyed what was unique in the world to build something you

can ind ever ywhere.Te building and decoration o the new Cathedral o Santa Maria deCordoba, begun under the watchul eye o Hernn Ruiz the Elder, was tolast or three centuries. Te result was a building with a range o styles romGothic, Plateresque and Renaissance to Baroque. It has a nave and a transept,in the shape o a Latin cross. Te arches are Gothic (pointed), the decoration

Plateresque and the dome, in Renaissance style. Te most notable eatures arethe red marble altar, the Main Altarpiece, the Choir-stalls with their domeabove inspired by the Sistine Chapel, and the Cathedral reasury, which

eatures the Corpus Christi monstrance, by the goldsmith Enrique de Are.

impressive chromatic eect. However, to understand the Mosque as it hasreached us today, we need to know what happened when the city was takenover by the Castilian troops in 1236. At rst, it was used as a place o worshipwith little alteration. Later, partial reorms were carried out with the addition

o chapels and other Christian elements. Te areas especially aected were theextensions ordered by the Caliph Abd al-Rahman II and by Almanzor.

Te Catholic Monarchs allowed the construction o a Main Chapel and in1489 opened the rst Gothic nave. In 1523, the Cordoba chapter, who hadrecently acquired ownership o the Mosque, ordered the construction o theCathedral. It was then that the most signicant and controversial changestook place, when the central part o the old prayer hall was converted intoa Christian cathedral in Renaissance style. o achieve this, 63 columns wereremoved in order to build a cathedral in the exact middle, under the centraldome o the skylight at the beginning o Al-Hakam IIs extension.

Vista exterior de la Mezquita-catedral /Mosque-Cathedral

30 31


17/45

Since 2010, it has been possible to enjoy a night-time visit to the Mosque-Cathedral o Cordoba, under the title El Alma de Crdoba (Te Soul oCordoba), eaturing state-othe- art lighting, sound and projections to display

the ancient building in all its grandeur.Te route, which lasts one hour, starts at the Orange-ree Courtyard withan audiovisual presentation that covers the whole history o the monumentand the city, then enters the church and starts on a tour o its main eaturesaccompanied by sound and lights, which are incorporated gradually as thevisit goes on. Te descriptions and explanations o the route are heard byvisitors through an audio guide system in eight languages.

Most o the Andalusi (Andalusian-Arabic) minaret is preserved, embeddedwithin the existing tower. It was built by Abd al-Rahman III and hadremained unchanged until the Renaissance, when the belry was added. Later,

problems o instability orced them to gird the Arab minaret in a more robustconstruction in the mid-17th century. In 1664, the tower was crowned with astatue o San Raael.

Te Chapel o the Blessed Sacrament deserved special mention, situatedon the southeastern side o the Mosque-Cathedral, decorated with stylish

rescoes, in the place previously occupied the Chapter Library. Te initiativeto build this chapel came rom Bishop Friar Martin de Cordoba y Mendoza,who ordered Hernn Ruiz III to build it in 1578. Te work was completedduring the ponticate o his successor. All the walls, including the ronts and

sides, are decorated with oil paintings, and there is an early example o spiral(Salomonic) columns, more typical o the ollowing period, the Baroque.

El proceso de conversin de la Mezqui-ta de Crdoba, que se haba iniciadotras el paso de la ciudad a manos cristia-nas con reormas parciales a travs dela adicin de capillas y otros elementoscristianos, se acelera durante el reinadode los Reyes Catlicos, que permitieronla construccin de una Capilla Mayor.En 1523, el cabildo de Crdoba ordenala construccin de la Catedral, al pasar

a sus manos el terreno de la Mezquita.Fue entonces cuando se emprendieronlas modicaciones ms sustanciales ypolmicas, cuando la parte central dela antigua sala de oracin se transor-m en catedral cristiana con los crite-rios propios de la arquitectura del Re-nacimiento. Para ello, se retiraron 63columnas con la nalidad de construiruna Catedral exactamente en el mediode ella, bajo la bveda central del lucer-nario en la que comienza la ampliacinde Al-Hakam II.La edicacin y decoracin de la nuevaCatedral de Santa Mara de Crdoba,iniciada bajo la direccin de HernnRuiz El Viejo, se prolongara durantetres siglos. El resultado es un edicioque suma estilos desde el gtico nal,plateresco, renacentista y barroco. Tienenave y crucero, con planta de cruz lati-

na. Los arcos son gticos (apuntados); laornamentacin, plateresca, y la cpula,renacentista. Elementos destacables sonel altar de mrmol rojo, el Retablo Ma-yor, la sillera del Coro cubierto conuna bveda inspirada en la Capilla Six-tina y el Tesoro de la Catedral, dondedestaca la custodia del Corpus Christi,obra del orebre Enrique de Are.Inserto dentro de la actual torre, se

conserva la mayor parte del alminar an-dalus, construido por Abd al-RahmanIII y que permaneci inalterado hastael Renacimiento, cuando se le aadi elcuerpo de campanas. Posteriormente,problemas de estabilidad obligaron aenundar el alminar rabe en una cons-truccin ms robusta a mediados delsiglo XVII. En 1664, la torre se coroncon la imagen de San Raael.Mencin especial merece la Capilla delSagrario, situada en el lado sudeste dela Mezquita-Catedral y decorada conmaravillosos rescos, en el lugar que an-teriormente haba ocupado la LibreraCapitular. Todas las paredes se encuen-tran decoradas con pinturas al leo, ascomo las cabeceras y los laterales, enlos que se da una aparicin tempranade columnas salomnicas, propias delperiodo siguiente, el Barroco.Interior Mezquita-catedral. Sillera del Coro /Mosque-Cathedral

32 33


18/45

8. riumphal Statue o St. Raphael (Roman Bridge)

Te riumphal Statues o St. Raphael are a testimony to popular devotion, asthey were erected in years o hardship to ask or the saints mercy.

Te rst triumphal statue to be erected in the city is located hal way along the

Roman Bridge. It is by Barnabas Gomez del Ro, and was placed there in 1651as thanksgiving or the end o the outbreak o plague that had devastated thecity in the previous years.

Next to the Gateway to the Bridge is the most attractive statue o all. Itwas sculpted in the 18th century, and was completed by architect Miguelde Verdiguier. Te ethereal column that supports the Archangel stands ona tower whose lower walls are sunk into a grotto. Tese are symbols o theunderworld, the earthly and the divine. Other triumphal statues are locatedin Puerta Nueva, Plaza de San Basilio or Plaza del Potro.

Desde 2010 es posible disrutar de la visita nocturna a la Mezqui-ta-Catedral de Crdoba que, bajo el ttulo de El Alma de Crdoba,utiliza tecnologa avanzada de iluminacin, sonido y proyeccionespara conocer el templo milenario en toda su dimensin.El recorrido, de una hora de duracin, se inicia en el Patio de losNaranjos con una proyeccin audiovisual que recorre toda la his-toria del monumento y de la ciudad, para, a continuacin, aden-trarse en el templo y realizar un recorrido por sus principales hitostransportados por el sonido y la iluminacin, que se va produ-ciendo de orma gradual conorme se desarrolla la visita. Las des-

cripciones y explicaciones del recorrido las reciben los visitantes atravs de un sistema de audiogua en ocho idiomas.

7. La Virgen de los FarolesLa Virgen de los Faroles esuna obra de Julio Romero deTorres pintada en 1928 porencargo del Ayuntamiento.Est situada en el exteriordel muro norte del Patiode los Naranjos. Su nom-bre se deriva de los arolesque la iluminan. Adems,el cuadro est adornadopor una reja exterior que loprotege. En la actualidad laimagen que se exhibe es unacopia, puesto que el originalue trasladado al Museo Ju-lio Romero de Torres.

7. Our Lady o the Lanterns

Our Lady o the Lanterns is a work by Julio Romero de orres painted in 1928or the own Hall. It is situated outside the north wall o the Orange-reeCourtyard. Its name is derived rom the lamps that illuminate it, and there

is also an outer ence which serves as both decoration and protection. odaythe painting on display is a copy, as the original was transerred to the JulioRomero de orres Museum.

orre Mezquita-catedral /Mosque-Cathedral

Virgen de los FarolesOur Lady of the Lanterns

34 35


19/45

Finally, the barrier or low wall surrounding the Calahorra dates back to the 16thcentury, as conrmed in a document rom 1514. Te interior consists o 14 roomsdivided into three oors with a terrace. Ater losing its deensive role, the ort hada wide range o uses: in the 19th century it was a prison or the nobility, a militaryquarters and a Girls School; since the mid 20th, it has been used as a Civil Guards

Barracks and as a City Museum. It now houses the Museum o the Tree Cultures.

10. Archaeological Museum o Cordoba

Te museum is situated in the Plaza Jeronimo Pez, in a Renaissance palacethat ormerly belonged to the Pez de Castillejo amily.

It is one o the leading archaeological museums in Spain, on a par with thato Madrid.

Te exhibition space consists o six rooms and three courtyards, on the groundoor, where the prehistoric, proto-historic, Hispano-Roman and Hispano-

Raphael, which literally means medicine o God, is one o the most popularnames in Cordoba, and many Cordoban men (Raael) and women (Raaela)are named ater him, as a sign o the gratitude that people eel or this

Archangel, who is the custodian, but not the patron saint, o the city.

9. Te Calahorra ower

Te ortress situated at the end o the bridge is known as the Calahorra ower,and, like no other, this historic building encapsulates the citys medievalhistory and all the episodes o war it has lived through.

Experts believe that there were originally two towers, and at the time o HenryII o rastmara these were joined by a third, thus orming a plan in the shapeo a cross with three wings. Te building we know nowadays is the result o 14thcentury reorms which added new deensive eatures, such as cross and orb

shaped sockets, designed to hold gunpowder-based artillery.

8. Triunfo de San Rafael(Puente Romano)Los Triunos de San Raael son la re-presentacin ervorosa de la devocinpopular, erigidos en aos de penuriaspara encomendarse al santo.El primer triuno que se alz en la ciu-dad es el situado en el centro del Puen-te Romano. Obra de Bernab Gmezdel Ro, ue colocado hacia 1651 comoagradecimiento por el n del brote de

peste que asol la ciudad aos atrs.Colindante con la Puerta del Puentese encuentra el ms vistoso de todos.Realizado en el siglo XVIII, ue ter-minado por el arquitecto Miguel deVerdiguier. La etrea columna quesustenta al Arcngel se erige sobreuna torre que hunde sus muros, a suvez, en una gruta. Son smbolos delinramundo, lo terreno y lo divino.Otros triunos se encuentran ubica-dos en Puerta Nueva, plaza de SanBasilio o plaza del Potro.El nombre de Raael, que signica me-dicina de Dios, es muy popular en Cr-doba, y da nombre a un buen nmerode cordobeses y cordobesas, debido ala gratitud que tienen los habitantes aste arcngel, que es el custodio -queno patrn- de la ciudad.

9. Torre de la CalahorraLa ortaleza emplazada en la cabecera del puente, conocida comola Calahorra, constituye uno de los mejores ejemplos de ediciohistrico que condensa la historia medieval de la ciudad, debido alos episodios blicos en los que ue protagonista.En su origen, los expertos piensan que ueron dos torres a las queen poca de Enrique II de Trastmara se les uni una tercera, or-mando de ese modo una planta de cruz con tres brazos. En la ac-tualidad, el edicio que se puede contemplar es el resultado de lasreormas emprendidas durante el siglo XIV con nuevos elementosdeensivos, como las troneras de cruz y orbe, destinadas a instalarpiezas de artillera de plvora.Por ltimo, la barrera o muralla baja que rodea a la Calahorra datadel siglo XVI, como consta en un documento de 1514. Su interiorconsta de 14 estancias divididas en tres alturas ms una terraza.Tras perder su uncionalidad deensiva, esta ortaleza cumpli losms diversos nes: desde crcel de la nobleza, cuartel de milicias yEscuela de Nias durante el siglo XIX; hasta Cuartel de la GuardiaCivil y Museo de la Ciudad desde mediados del siglo XX. En laactualidad alberga el Museo de las Tres Culturas.

riunfo de San Rafaelriumphal Statue of St. Raphael

orre de la Calahorra / Te Calahorra ower

36 37


20/45

11. Te Chapel o San Bartolom (St. Bartholomew)

Te Chapel o San Bartolom, integrated into the current Faculty o Philosophyand Arts o Cordoba, was built around 1410 as a ocal point o the new diocese

set up between the Alczar Viejo district and the Jewish Quarter. Te chapel,

possibly built over a ormer Jewish synagogue, was a parish church until the17th century, and despite all the transormations it has undergone since it wasbuilt, is still a shining example o the Gothic-Mudjar style.

Te building consists o a rectangular nave with crossed vaulting that stillretains its original tiled plinth and plasterwork. Tere is also a courtyard,

parallel to the nave, whose aade looks out onto the street. Tis aadeeatures an ogival Gothic arch and a portico with three arches. It has recentlybeen restored and can be visited by the public.

Visigothic collections are displayed, as well as two more rooms in an upstairsgallery where the medieval collections are kept.

Te museum takes you through the history o Christian Crdoba rom thedomestic, public, administrative and commercial angle. Te museum contains

stone sarcophagi showing Christian motis that were ound in dierent partso the city, o which the most striking is the Sarcophagus o the Columns, anextensively decorated sarcophagus rom the time o Constantine, which was

ound in the 60s in the Huerta de San Raael and is now on display in theProvincial Archaeological Museum. Tere is also the Evangelists Capital, andthe sarcophagus ragment portraying Daniel in the Lions Den, which narratesthe well-known biblical scene.

Ater an international competition was launched in 1998 looking or ideasor a new building to extend the museum, an annex, measuring 4,000 m,was built which will now host a range o services, as well as the exhibitionCordoba: the Meeting o Cultures.

11. La Capilla deSan BartolomLa Capilla de San Bar-tolom, integrada enla actual Facultad deFilosoa y Letras deCrdoba, se constru-y en torno al 1410como reerente de lanueva collacin entreel barrio del Alczar

Viejo y la Judera. Estacapilla, edicada po-siblemente sobre unaantigua sinagoga juda,ue parroquia hasta elsiglo XVII y a pesar detodas las transorma-ciones suridas desdesu levantamiento esuno de los mejoresejemplos de la estticagtico-mudjar.El conjunto consta deuna nave rectangularcon bveda de crucera que an conserva un zcalo de azulejos yyeseras originales. Tiene, adems, un patio paralelo a la nave dela capilla con achada a la calle. En la achada se puede apreciarun arco ojival y un prtico de tres arcos. Recientemente ha sidorehabilitada y puede ser visitada.

10. Museo Arqueolgico yEtnolgico de CrdobaEl museo se encuentra en la plaza Jer-nimo Pez, en un palacio renacentistaque perteneci a la amilia de los Pezde Castillejo.Es uno de los museos arqueolgicos msimportantes de Espaa, junto con el deMadrid. Cuenta con un espacio exposi-tivo ormado por seis salas y tres patios,en la planta baja, donde se presenta las

colecciones de Prehistoria, Protohistoria,Hispanorromano e Hispanovisigodo, ydos ms en una galera de la planta altadonde estn las colecciones medievales.A travs de este museo, es posible re-pasar la historia de la Crdoba cristianatanto a nivel domstico, como pblico,administrativo y comercial. El museoposee sarcagos de piedra, de temticacristiana que ueron encontrados en dis-

tintos puntos de la ciudad. Especialmente destacable es el Sarc-ago Columnado, un sarcago ampliamente decorado de pocade Constantino, que se encontr en los aos sesenta en la Huertade San Raael. Por otro lado, destaca el capitel de los Evangelistaso la parte del sarcago de Daniel en el Foso de los cristianos, quenarra una escena bblica.Tras la convocatoria en 1998 de un concurso internacional deideas para la construccin de un edicio de nueva planta desti-nado a la ampliacin del museo, se ha construido un nuevo edi-cio de 4.000 m2 anexo al palacio, que albergar distintos servicios,adems de la exposicin Crdoba: Encuentro de Culturas.

Vista del museoArchaeological Museum of Cordoba

Capilla de San BartolomTe Chapel of St. Bartholomew

38 39


21/45

and disappeared in the 19th century ater the dissolution o the monasteries.Te church underwent major reorms in the 18 th century which changedits medieval appearance into Baroque. Inside, it is richly decorated with

plasterwork, which gives the impression o greater dynamism. Tere areseveral altars, such as those entitled the Birth, St . Joseph or St . Eloy, and sixchapels scattered round the church. Another element that stands out in thedecoration is the impressive collection o paintings by 18th century Cordobanartists, such as the St.

Andrew by Juan de Valdes Leal. What is most striking about the churchsexterior is its cloisters, made up o two levels o arcades, with two upper arches

or every one on the ground oor. Te arches are semicircular and supportedby columns with uscan

capitals, whose austerity contrasts with the interior o the church. Teexistence o a courtyard a space in ront o the church, which has recentlybeen restored - is also a reminder o its ormer role as a convent.

12. Convento de Santa Clara. Otros conventosEl actual convento de Santa Clara o antigua iglesia de Santa Ca-talina, en la calle Rey Heredia, se construy hacia 976 sobre unaprimitiva mezquita. El edicio conserva parte del alminar, inte-grado en la torre del convento, as como una parte de los murosde los patios, y una de las puertas de acceso que destaca por undintel adovelado que se enmarca en un arco ciego de herradura,en la calle Osio.Este es uno de los conventos tipo que se construyeron en Crdobatras la conquista cristiana, como el de Santa Isabel de los ngeles,el de San Agustn, el de Santsima Trinidad, el convento de SantaMara de Gracia, el de Regina Coeli o el de Santa Marta.

13. Iglesia de San Francisco y San Eulogio

La iglesia de San Francisco y San Eulogio perteneci al conventoranciscano de San Pedro el Real, undado en el siglo XIII y des-aparecido con la desamortizacin del siglo XIX. Esta iglesia suriuna amplia reorma en el siglo XVIII que modic su sonomamedieval por otra barroca. En su interior se puede encontrar unaabundante decoracin con yeseras que dan al conjunto una ima-gen de movimiento. Posee diversos altares como el del Nacimien-to, el de San Jos o el de San Eloy adems de seis capillas distri-buidas en todo el entorno. Otro de los elementos que destaca enla decoracin es la importante coleccin de pinturas de artistascordobeses del siglo XVIII como el San Andrs de Juan de ValdsLeal. En el exterior lo que ms llama la atencin de esta iglesiaes su claustro, compuesto por dos pisos de arcadas, correspon-dindose dos arcos del piso superior con uno del piso inerior. Losarcos son de medio punto y se apoyan sobre columnas de capitelestoscanos que destaca en austeridad en contraste con el interiorde la iglesia. Tambin es un recuerdo de su antiguo papel comoconvento la existencia de un comps, es decir, un espacio que an-tecede a la iglesia y que recientemente ha sido restaurado.

Claustro de la iglesia de San Francisco y San Eulogio / Church of St. Francis and St. Eulogius

Iglesia de San Francisco y San Eulogio / Church of St. Francis and St. Eulogius

12. Convent o Santa Clara (St. Clare), and other monasteries

Te present convent o Santa Clara or ormer church o Santa Catalina incalle Rey Heredia was built around 976 over an earlier mosque and stillconserves part o the original minaret, built into the convent tower and a part

o the courtyard walls, as well as an access door that is remarkable or its lintelwith voussoirs orming part o a blind horseshoe arch in calle Osio.

It was one o the typical monasteries built in Cordoba just ater the Christianconquest, like those o Santa Isabel de los Angeles, San Augustn, the Holyrinity, the convent o Santa Maria de Gracia or the Regina Coeli or Santa

Marta convent.

13. Church o San Francisco and San Eulogio (St. Francis and St. Eulogius)

Te church o San Francisco and San Eulogio belonged to the Franciscanconvent o San Pedro el Real, which had been ounded in the 13 th century

40 41


22/45

Ronquillo Briceo ordered the renovation o the plaza, the chapel wasexpropriated in exchange or transerring the land it now occupies. It has

allen into disrepair and has been closed since 2007, and both the image o the

Virgin del Socorro, as well as that o St. Raphael, are kept in the neighbouringparish o San Pedro.

What is nowadays the Snchez Pea Market was ormerly the governors houseand a jail, until the 19th century, when, in 1846, the Cordoban businessman

Jos Snchez Pea bought the building and installed the most technologicallyadvanced industry in the Cordoba o his day: a hat actory using steamengines. In the late 20th century, it was converted into a ood market and italso houses other municipal oces.

Between the years 1896 and 1959, the square was literally taken over by theood market, but the construction o a new market, this time underground, ledto the discovery o a Roman house with beautiul mosaics, currently on display

14. Plaza de la Corredera

Tis spacious plaza with porticos is the only example o a Castilian plaza inAndalusia and is in the same style as the plaza mayor (main square) o Madridand Salamanca. It was built along the lines o late 17th century Baroque urban

planning over a large expanse o land outside the walls o the Medina.Tis space was originally planned as a venue or the great public events o theday: bullghts (rom which its name is derived), games with reeds, militaryvictories, autos de (public conessions) and even executions.

Tis area owes its current appearance to the work undertaken in 1687 bymayor Francisco Ronquillo Briceo Baroque and modelled on the Castiliantown squares. All that survived o the earlier square was the House o Lady

Ana Jacinto Angulo, a strongwilled noblewoman who reused to sell her house,so that this 16th building now stands out as a eature o the plaza.

Just next to the Plaza de la Corredera stands the Ermita del Socorro(Hermitage o Help), which was originally located within the plaza. When

ginalmente se encontraba dentro de la plaza. Cuando RonquilloBriceo orden la renovacin de la plaza, la ermita ue expropiadaa cambio de la cesin del solar que actualmente ocupa. Se encuen-tra cerrada desde 2007 debido a su estado de deterioro y, tanto laimagen titular de la Virgen del Socorro, como la de San Raael, seencuentran en la vecina parroquia de San Pedro.Lo que hoy es el Mercado Snchez Pea ue anteriormente casa decorregidor y crcel, hasta que en el siglo XIX, en 1846, el empresa-rio cordobs Jos Snchez Pea compr el edicio e instal all lams moderna industria de Crdoba con mquinas de vapor para laabricacin de sombreros. A nales del siglo XX ue reconvertidaen mercado de abastos y alberga otras dependencias municipales.Entre los aos 1896 y 1959 la plaza estuvo literalmente ocupadapor un mercado de abastos. Las obras de construccin de unnuevo mercado, esta vez subterrneo, propiciaron el descubri-miento de una casa romana con hermosos mosaicos, actualmen-te expuestos en el Alczar de los Reyes Cristianos y en el MuseoArqueolgico de Crdoba.

14. Plaza de la CorrederaEste amplio espacio porticado constituye el nico ejemplo de plazacastellana en Andaluca y puede ormar triloga con las plazas ma-yores de Madrid y Salamanca.Fue construida en base a los undamentos del urbanismo barrocoa nales del siglo XVII sobre una gran explanada extramuros dela Medina.En su origen, este espacio ue concebido como lugar de celebra-cin de los grandes actos pblicos de la poca: corridas de toros(de las que derivar su nombre), juegos de caas, victorias milita-res, autos de e e, incluso, ejecuciones.Este enclave debe su aspecto actual a la obra acometida en 1687por el corregidor Francisco Ronquillo Briceo siguiendo el mode-lo barroco de las plazas mayores castellanas. De la poca anteriornicamente sobrevivi la Casa de doa Ana Jacinto de Angulo,dama noble muy tozuda que se neg a vender su casa, por lo que eledicio, del siglo XVI, destaca en la sonoma del resto de la plaza.Junto a La Corredera se encuentra la Ermita del Socorro, que ori-

Panormica de la Plaza de la Corredera

42 43


23/45

Te church has a remarkably original design a long nave combined witha circular space. Moreover, it can be said to preserve the last Neo-classical

aade erected in Cordoba. Inside, the most striking eatures are the dierentpaintings dedicated to the image o the Archangel produced in 1735, as well asthe 18th century canvases by the Cordoban painter Antonio Acisclo Palomino.

16. Church o San Pedro (St. Peter)

Te parish church o San Pedro was one o the main churches ounded byFerdinand III in the Axerqua. radition has it that under what is now theChurch o San Pedro lay the original Cathedral o Cordoba, built beore the

Islamic invasion o 711.

Te church was built on unstable land and has undergone major reormsthroughout its history. Tese include the new entrance built by Hernn Ruiz

II, which gave the church a new appearance. As time went by, the Baptismal

in the Castle o the Christian Monarchs and the Archaeological Museum oCordoba. Nowadays the Corredera is one o the most popular places in thecity, where Cordobans gather to sit in the sun, meet riends and enjoy manycultural events, like the Medieval Market, which is held in late January.

15. Te Church o the Juramento (the Oath)

It was in 1578 when St. Raphael appeared to Father Roelas several times, andon the last occasion, the archangel swore an oath: "I swear by the cruciedChrist that I am Raphael, whom God has placed as a guardian over this city".Tese words appear on the dedication o the triumphal statues around the city.

In 1652 it was proposed that the house where Father Roelas lived should beturned into a chapel, although this was not done until 1735. Later, around1800, unds were raised among the people o Cordoba to enlarge the church oSan Raael o the Oath to the size we know today.

Hoy La Corredera es una de las plazas ms populares de la ciudad,donde los cordobeses se renen para tomar el sol, encontrarse conlos amigos y disrutar de multitud de eventos culturales, como elMercado Medieval que se celebra a nales de enero.

15. La Iglesia del JuramentoFue en 1578 cuando San Raael se le apareci al Padre Roelas envarias ocasiones y en la ltima el arcngel le hizo un juramento:Yo te juro por Jess Cristo Crucicado, que soy Raael, a quientiene Dios puesto por guarda de esta ciudad, tal y como se puede

leer en las cartelas de los triunos de toda la ciudad.Fue en 1652 cuando se propuso que la casa en la que haba habi-tado el Padre Roelas se convirtiera en ermita, lo que no se llev acabo hasta el 1735. Posteriormente, en torno al 1800, se recauda-ron ondos entre los cordobeses para aumentar el tamao de laiglesia del Juramento de San Raael hasta como la conocemos ennuestros das.La iglesia conserva la ltima achada de estilo neoclasicista quese erigi en Crdoba. En su interior, son muy interesantes las dis-tintas pinturas dedicadas a la imagen del Arcngel realizada en1735 y lienzos del pintor cordobs Antonio Acisclo Palomino enel siglo XVIII.

Iglesia del Juramento / Te Church of the Juramento (the Oath)

44 45


24/45

17. House o the Aguayo Family

In a small square with the same name, near the church o San Pedro, standsthis stately home. It is a beautiul building, and currently houses the Collegeo the Holy Family, known locally as Las Francesas (Te French Girls

School). Te carved entrance is early 16th century, decorated with laurel-leamedallions and the amily coat o arms, and within, there is a magnicentstaircase in red and black marble and a large garden.

Te Aguayo lineage originated rom three brothers who ought in the Christianconquest (Reconquista) alongside King Pelayo. Diego Fernando Aguayo servedunder Fernando III Te Saint in the conquests o Ubeda and Baeza (Jan),Crdoba and Ecija (Sevilla), and was granted land and possessions rom the King.

Tis house is a typical example o the stately homes scattered around thehistoric quarter o Cordoba, property o noble amilies and awarded to themby the Crown o Castile in exchange or taking part in the conquest o theterritories under Islamic power.

Chapel was added in the 17th century, Baroque vaulting covered the originalMudjar (Moorish) and new parish buildings were added.

wo o the medieval entrances survive to this day, eaturing typical elements

o Cordoban Mudjar architecture. Te interior includes the Chapel o theHoly Martyrs altarpiece by Alonso Gomez de Sandoval, the altarpiece byFelix Morales and the Baptismal Chapel, where Juan de Mesa, a leadinggure in Baroque sculpture in Andalusia, was baptized.

In 1575, the tombs o the rst three Cordoban martyrs were ound here: SaintsFaustus, Januarius and Martial, who were all executed during Diocletianspersecution along with St. Acisclus and St. Victoria, patron saints o the city.On November 23rd, 2005, Pope Benedict XVI named the church the Minor

Basilica o San Pedro.

16. Iglesia de San PedroLa Parroquia de San Pedro ue una de las iglesias ms importantesundadas por Fernando III en la Axerqua. La tradicin sita en loque hoy es San Pedro la primitiva Catedral de Crdoba, erigidaantes de la invasin islmica del ao 711.Debido al terreno de sedimentos en los que se encuentra ubicada,a lo largo de su historia ha surido importantes reormas. Entreellas destaca la nueva portada construida por Hernn Ruiz II, loque dot a la iglesia de un nuevo aspecto. Con el paso del tiempose aadieron la Capilla del Bautismo en el siglo XVII, las bvedasbarrocas ocultaron las mudjares o incluso se aadieron nuevasdependencias parroquiales. Hoy da se conservan dos de las por-tadas medievales que muestran elementos tpicos de la arquitec-tura mudjar cordobesa. En su interior cabe destacar el retablo dela Capilla de los Santos Mrtires realizado por Alonso Gmez de

Sandoval, el retablo mayor, de Flix de Morales, y la Capilla delBautismo, donde ue bautizado Juan de Mesa, gura undamentalde la imaginera del Barroco andaluz.En 1575 se hall en ella el sepulcro de los tres primeros mrtiresde Crdoba: los santos Fausto, Jenaro y Marcial, asesinados en lamisma persecucin de Diocleciano que acab con la vida de SanAcisclo y Santa Victoria, patronos de la ciudad. El 23 de noviem-bre de 2005, el Papa Benedicto XVI le otorg el distintivo de Bas-lica Menor de San Pedro.

17. Casa de los AguayoEn la pequea plaza del mismo nombre, cerca de la iglesia de SanPedro, se levanta esta casa solariega. Este precioso edicio, sede ac-tual del Colegio de la Sagrada Familia, conocido como Las France-sas, posee una achada labrada de principios del siglo XVI, adornadacon medallones laureados y el escudo amiliar. En el interior cabedestacar la astuosa escalera en mrmolrojo y negro y un gran jardn.El linaje de los Aguayo tiene su origen entres hermanos que lucharon en la Recon-quista junto al rey Pelayo. Diego FernnAguayo, sirvi a Fernando III El Santo enlas conquistas de beda y Baeza (Jan),Crdoba y cija (Sevilla), y recibi tierrasy posesiones de manos del rey.Esta casa es un claro exponente de lascasas solariegas que hay repartidas portodo el casco histrico de Crdoba, pro-piedad de las amilias nobles que resulta-ron premiados por la Corona de Castillaa cambio de su participacin en la tomade los territorios bajo poder islmico.

Iglesia de San Pedro / Church of St. Peter

Casa de los AguayoHouse of the Aguayo Family

46 47


25/45

19. Hermitage o Los Santos Mrtires (the Holy Martyrs)

On the riverside, near the district o Santiago, there is a small chapel whichwas built in 1880 on the grounds o the existing convent o the same name, tomark the extension o the Paseo de la Ribera main road rom the Molino de

Martos to Campo Madre de Dios.radition holds that this was the site o the martyrdom o siblings St. Acisclusand St. Victoria, patrons o Cordoba.

Inside, there is a beautiul early Christian sarcophagus made in Carraramarble, dating rom around 330 AD ( the era o Constantine).

Ater having allen into disuse or many years , it was restored and reopenedor worship in 2005 to mark the 17th anniversary o the death o the HolyMartyrs o Cordoba.

18. Church o Santiago (St. James)

Te Church o Santiago was built on the site o an ancient mosque in CalleAgustn Moreno, and was also built ater the Christian conquest. At the baseo the tower, there are remains o the original minaret o the mosque o the

district o Sabula, which, like other districts, had its own centre o worship.Within, its clean, white orms predominate. In the various chapels and the

sanctuary, especially, the most interesting works are the Baldacchino copy thatPius II ordered to be made or St. Peter's Basilica at the Vatican, which containsthe image o St. James, dressed as a knight and carrying a pilgrim's sta.

In 1979, a re caused the roo to all in, and major restoration work wasundertaken that ended in 1990.

18. Iglesia de SantiagoLa iglesia de Santiago, construida sobre una antigua mezquita enla calle Agustn Moreno, tambin se construy tras la conquistacristiana. Conserva en el basamento de la torre los restos del almi-nar de la que uera la mezquita del arrabal de Sabular, que como elresto de arrabales cont con su propio centro de oracin.En el interior destaca la limpieza de ormas y el blanco predomi-nante. En sus diversas capillas y en el presbiterio, en concreto, des-taca la copia del Baldaquino que Po II mand realizar para la Bas-lica de San Pedro en el Vaticano, que alberga la imagen de Santiago

Apstol, vestido como caballero que porta una vara de peregrino.En 1979 suri un incendio que tuvo como consecuencia el hundi-miento de las naves, por lo que experiment una prounda restau-racin que termin en 1990.

19. Ermita de los Santos MrtiresEn la Ribera, muy cerca del barrio de Santiago, destaca una pe-quea iglesia levantada en 1880 sobre los terrenos del conventopreexistente, del mismo nombre, con motivo de la ampliacin delPaseo de la Ribera desde el Molino de Martos hasta el Campo Ma-dre de Dios. La tradicin ubica en este lugar el martirio de loshermanos San Acisclo y Santa Victoria, patronos de Crdoba.En su interior se puede admirar un bello sarcago paleocristia-no realizado en mrmol de Carrara, datado en torno al 330 d.C.(poca constantiniana).En 2005 se volvi a abrir al culto despus de un periodo de cesede actividad debido a su deterioro, con motivo del decimosptimocentenario de la muerte de los Santos Mrtires cordobeses.

Ermita de los Santos Martires / Hermitage of the Holy Martyrs

48 49


26/45


27/45


28/45

25. Church o San Pablo (St. Paul)

Te convent o San Pablo el Real was ounded by the Castilian king FerdinandIII Te Saint in the parish o San Andres, which was a sparsely populatedarea at the time o the Christian Conquest. It was built on an area which had

always had important buildings, due to its privileged location on a stretch othe Via Augusta: rst, the Roman Circus, later, an Almohad Muslim palaceand nally, in Christian times, a Dominican monastery.

Te grounds extended over a large area, although today they are connedpractically to the area around the church. When it was ounded, around theyear 1240, the convent was given many donations, alms and privileges, and,above all, the Dominican athers, who occupied it rom the start, enjoyed royal

protection or several centuries. Tis was ollowed by various transormationsin the 16th and 17th centuries.

24. Church o San Andres (St. Andrew)

Tis building, which was nished around 1246, was o exceptional religiousand strategic value rom the very start, since not only was it built over theruins o the ancient Basilica o San Zoilo, but it was also situated on one o

the busiest medieval thoroughares in Cordoba, the Via Augusta (nowadays,Calle San Pablo). Its original state was altered by the building o the present-day tower, ollowing sketches by Hernn Ruiz II and, in the 18 th century, the

ormer medieval church became the nave o the modernday building.

23. Iglesia de SanAgustnRestaurada en el ao 2009, SanAgustn, es una de las iglesiasque mejor narran lo que signi-c el Barroco en la ciudad hastael punto de convertirse en pa-radigma de ese estilo. Gracias aesta recuperacin integral de laiglesia se ha podido devolver elesplendor al templo, despus de

aos de abandono y deterioro.Destacan las pinturas muralesde las paredes y las obras escul-tricas que han vuelto despusde la reorma.

24. Iglesia de San AndrsDesde un primer momento, el edicio, construido en torno al ao1246, adquiri un gran valor religioso y estratgico, puesto queue levantado sobre los restos de la antigua Baslica de San Zoilo,a la vez que estaba situado en una de las vas ms importantes ytransitadas de la Crdoba medieval, la Va Augusta o actual calleSan Pablo. Su estado original se vio modicado por la realizacinde la actual torre, siguiendo las trazas de Hernn Ruiz II y, ya enel siglo XVIII, la iglesia medieval pas a ser el crucero de la actual.

Iglesia de San Andrs / Church of St. Andrew

Iglesia de San Agustn / Church of St. Augustine

54 55


29/45

26. Church o Santa Marina de Aguas Santas (St. Marina o the Holy Waters)

Te church o Santa Marina is one o the oldest Fernandine Churches. It wasbuilt in the late 13th century on the site o a 7th century Visigothic temple, andhas been declared a Site o Cultural Interest and a National Historic-Artistic

Monument since 1931.In the late 18th century, it was rebuilt ater an earthquake aected the church in 1755.

It survived a re that let it unusable or two years, and later, in the 20thcentury,underwent several reorms.

Te rebuilding work undertaken between 1998 and 2005 restored the churchto its original appearance and, recently, the demolition o connecting buildingshas reed the church apse.

Opposite the main acade stands the Plaza del Conde de Priego, with themonument to the amous bullghter Manuel Rodriguez Sanchez (Manolete)

standing watch.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the church was completely restored,under the watchul eye o Adolo Castieyra and Mateo Inurria, andthe striking Chapel o Cristo de la Expiracin (Te Expiring Christ) wascompletely rebuilt.

Te Orive Garden occupies the ormer San Pablo Allotments, and here theChapter o the primitive monastery survives, the result o an unnishedproject begun by Hernn Ruiz II in the 16th century, which ater theNapoleonic invasion was used as a prison. Its restoration in 2008 turned itinto a multipurpose building which provides a venue or exhibitions, lectures,concerts and presentations.

Te bell tower o San Pablo was restored in 1998 and ocially opened on St.Pauls Day, June 29th, the date o the citys conquest by the Christians. Teset o bells, made by Georges and Francisque Paccard in 1900, was exhibitedat the Universal Exhibition o Paris o that year, and was purchased by the

Father Superior o the Convent o San Pablo or this church.

25. Iglesia de San PabloEl convento de San Pablo el Real ue undado por el rey castellanoFernando III El Santo en la collacin de San Andrs, una zona muydespoblada en tiempos de la Reconquista. Fue construido sobreun espacio que alberg siempre grandes edicaciones por su pri-vilegiada situacin, en el trazado de la Va Augusta. Primero ueel Circo Romano, luego, los musulmanes construyeron un palacioalmohade y nalmente los cristianos un convento dominico.La extensin del complejo era bastante amplia, aunque hoy se hareducido prcticamente a la iglesia.

Durante los ltimos aos del siglo XIX y principios del XX se rea-liz una prounda restauracin del templo, dirigida por AdoloCastieyra y Mateo Inurria, en la que destac la reestructuracinde la Capilla del Cristo de la Expiracin.En el Jardn de Orive, el antiguo Huerto de San Pablo, se conservala Sala Capitular del primitivo convento, ruto de un proyecto in-

Iglesia de San Pablo / Church of St. Paul

acabado, obra de Hernn Ruiz II, que se inici e

Guia Cordoba Cristiana

Documents

Transcript of Guia Cordoba Cristiana