Gui Am or Aria Escala Da

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Costa Blanca X-tra

MiniGUIDEby Chris Craggs

Version 1.0 - December 2008

Thank you or downloading thisRockax MiniGUIDE. We hopethat you fnd the inormation

useul, inspiring and accurate.

Please send any comments [email protected].

Thanks again or your support.

Alan James, December 2008

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La Asmoladora" P a r a d i s e b e t w e e n m o u n t a i n s "

Contact Pam and Derek Cornthwaite

E-mail [email protected]

Phone/fax Spain 0034 96 640 5429

or UK (mid June to early Oct) 01433 639 536

www.nca-la-asmoladora.com

This MiniGuide is supported by La Asmolodora


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Costa BlancaX-tra

Bolullah - Moro Falqui - Alcalal

Situated near Parcent in the peaceful

Jalon Valley, nca La Asmoladora is

at the centre of the climbing area ofthe Costa Blanca. It is surrounded on

three sides by spectacular mountains.

The nearest crags are ve minutes

away and all are within easy reach of

the nca.

The nca is an excellent base for

climbers wanting to avoid the over-

crowded tourist areas of the coast.

It has a range of superb modestly

priced self-catering accommodation,

for groups from 2 to 18 people. The

owners have known the area intimate-ly for 25 years and are happy t o share

their extensive knowledge with guests.

For relaxing before or after climbing,

La Asmoladora has acres of almonds

and olive terraces, its own wilderness

area plus a tennis court and a huge

barbeque and pool.

When food preparation is too much

trouble there are ten restaurants, all

of them good and reasonably priced,

within about 1km.

The photographs show t he ncas

three Casitas each for two or four

people, the interior of one of them and

the pool/barbeque terrace.

M a k e y o u r c l i m b i n g b a s e




Phone/fax Spain 0034 96 640 5429 or UK (mid June to early Oct) 01433 639 536


La AsmoladoraS u p e r b a c c o m m o d a t i o n

f o r c l i m b e r s - s e e b a c k c o v e r

Main:ThehugefaceofMoroFalquitakenfromC

aladelMoraig.

Photo:ChrisCraggs.

Inset:ArndB

hmeonthefirstascentofIm

Hagel.Photo:HagenGoetzke


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MiniGUIDESfrom rockfax.com

1 Costa Blanca X-tra Version 1.0 - December 2008

Costa Blanca X-tra

MiniGUIDEby Chris Craggs

Version 1.0 - December 2008

Rockfax MiniGuide design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.

Published by Rockfax Ltd. Rockfax Ltd. 2008

COPYRIGHT NOTICEAll rights reserved. No part o this fle may be duplicated in any orm, or by any electronic,mechanical or other means, without the prior permission rom the publisher.This fle has been branded as belonging to the registered user o the Rockax web siteshown below. The entitles the individual to ree updates o the same fle within the sameversion number. Any illegal copying o this fle by any electronic, mechanical or othermeans negates this entitlement. Please help us und more MiniGUIDEs by not distributing

this copy. Even i you think you are just printing out an extra copy or one o your riendsdo you really know who your riend will give it to?

FOOTNOTEThe inclusion o a climbing area in this MiniGuide does not mean that you have a righto access or the r ight to climb upon it. The descriptions o routes and grades within thisMiniGuide are recorded or historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed onthe accuracy o the description. Climbers who attempt a climb o a par ticular standardshould use their own judgment as to whether they are profcient enough to tackle thatclimb. This book is not a substitute or experience and proper judgment. The authors andpublisher o this MiniGuide do not recognise any liability or injury or damage caused to,or by, climbers, third parties, or propert y arising rom such persons seeking reliance onthis guidebook as an assurance or their own saety.







Costa Blanca X-traThis MiniGuide includes details o a coupleo interesting recenty developed crags onthe Costa Blanca. In the hills behind Bolulla(on the road rom Callosa to Tarbena) isa mass o rock and some might impres-sive clis. The eatured crag has 14 routesacross the grades rom 4+ to 7b and is astupendous situation.The other crag is down by the seaside- Morro Falqui is the headland with the

Cumbres del Sol (Summits o the Sun)Urbanisation on its crest, between Morairaand Javea. Here too, development is in itsinancy.Thanks to Hagen Goetzke who has placedmany o the bolts and passed on the inor-mation that has made this MiniGUIDEpossible.It also covers the recent developmentsat Alcalal (Costa Blanca Rockax pages284/5) which has many new and worthwhileclimbs courtesy o Richard Davies and AlanAustin.

BolullaA secluded crag in a loty situation andwith great outward views. Brie descriptionsare included here o the ourteen routesthat currently exist - eedback would bewelcome. The huge crag passed on theway to the cli does not appear to haveany routes as yet; the scope is enormous.The routes here are the work o JensMuenchberg and riends.Approach - Bollula is roughly halwaybetween Alacalali and Callosa (see the mapon page 270 o the Costa Blanca Rockax).

It is reached by heading inland rom Alteatowards Guadalest and branching rightonto the CV715 which leads to Tarbernaand Alcalal. North o the town, and 300mpast the 46km stone, turn let onto a trackrunning towards the hills. Follow this pastthe base o some impressive clis thencontinue as it winds up the valley side toparking under the cli - DONT BLOCK THETRACK. Walk up the track to a cairn on theright then scramble up a ramp and roundright to the base o the ace.

Distant Bernia seen from the Bolullaparking. Photo: Chris Craggs

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Bolulla

CV715


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Morro FalquiBolulla

Bolulla

1 Maria es Buena 1c 530m Weave up the left-edge of the crag.

2 Tashen Haschen 1c 6a30m A rather more direct line to the same lower-off. Not verywell balanced with just a couple of hard moves high up.

3 Tapa bar la era 1c 4+20m The short lower pitch is a decent easy route.

4 Tapa bar la era 1ftc 7a+30m The short extension is much, much harder.

5 Con vista al mar 1fsc 7a28m The wall left of the white streak is reached via easyground then a tricky scoop.

6 Cowgirl 1fc 7b30m The desperate smooth wall right of the white streak isreached over more easy ground and is sharp and fierce.

7 Ttl 2sfc 6a+30m Head up the left edge of the cave then follow the line ofleast resistance - good climbing.

8 No acariciar la Chica 1tc 7a26m The right edge of the cave and the wall above.

9 Der Schne und das Biest 2c 6c28m The smoother wall just right leads to a lower-off at thebreak.

0 Blauer Faserpeltz 2sc 6c+28m The slabby apron and steep wall lead to moves past theleft edge of the wide roof high up.

q Snake 2sc 6a+28m Easy ground leads to the sustained left-trending flake.

w E m o t i o n 1sc 6b28m Steep climbing to a choice of finishes.

e Me gustas tu 1sc 7a+28m Scramble up to reach poweful moves up the groove andbulges at the right side of the crag.

r Gecko 1sc 7b28m Steep work up the right-hand line, starting as for theprevious climb.

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Morro Falqui is the imposing headland to the north o the beaches and deep water soloingnorth o Moraira. The saddle-shaped headland can be clearly seen rom the DWS crags oCala del Moraig and has been developed by German climber Hagen Goetzke and riends.Easy access and a sunny setting should ensure that you have a good day out here. Theroutes cover a good spread o grades rom 4+ to 6c and the superb 6-pitch Sonjannika inparticular should prove to be very popular.

AccessSome o the crags around Moraira have had access problems but in this case Hagen hasa letter signed by the local mayor confrming that climbing is allowed on the headland.However there is a lot o development taking place so make sure you park with considera-tion and avoid making too much noise.

ApproachFrom Teulada, Javea or Moraira, take the road to Benitaxtell. On the eastern edge oBenitaxtell, turn r ight towards Urbanisacion 'Cumbre del Sol'. Follow the road or 3.8 km asit winds up into the urbanisation to reach a large supermarket on the let.To go to the West and South Faces, turn right at the second junction - a roundabout.Follow this street to parking by the last houses, on top o the sea clis. From the parking,head right ater 10m and ollow the path that becomes visible as soon as you start goingdownhill. It leads along the base o the crag (see the crag photos). To gain the routes romabove, head towards a low point in the cli top. Routes 1 to 16 are right o this and routes 17to 20 start 30m let o this point. For routes 1 to 16, keep close to the right-hand edge o the

crag. For routes 17 to 20, ollow the path leading slightly letwards and leave it ater approxi-mately 200m, then bush-bash to the abseil anchors on the right.Approach to the South East Face and the two long routes is described on page 8.

Benitaxtell

From Benitaxtell

Supermarket

FromTeulada

Cumbre del Sol

Cumbre del Sol

CV 740

P

P

About 2km

Morro Falqui

Barrancodel Testos

Cala del TestosCala del Moraig

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Morro Falqui Morro Falqui West Face

Morro Falqui - West Face

1 Coming Ou t 2c 4+15m To and through the hole/tunnel - amusing. No lower-off.FA. Hagen Goetzke Oct 2005

2 Schneggerla 1sc 5+15m The steep right wall of the cave, exiting right.FA. Hagen Goetzke Oct 2008

3 Disorder 1fc 6a15m The steep corner 10m right of the cave.FA. Hagen Goetzke Oct 2005

4 Andr ina 3tpc 6b25m A quality solitary route in the taller face to the right. Startat a block, climb the face leftwards and then up to a slot. Twolittle bulges lead to the belay on the right.FA. Hagen Goetzke Oct 2005

15m to the right are two lines that are currently projects. Downthe slope the routes get longer.

5 Get on Top 2tfc 6c26m Start one metre left of a crack, sustained climbing onsharp rock. The bolts are a bit spacedFA. Hagen Goetzke Oct 2008

6 Solarmissionar 1fc 5+27m Start up a left facing groove then move left and climb theface above (crux) to a finish up a crack.FA. Hagen Goetzke Nov 2007

7 Polarpissoir 1sc 6a27m The curving groove in the pillar to the right leads to moregroove climbing above. Sustained.FA. Hagen Goetzke Nov 2007

The next three climbs are long pitches that share a commonstart up a slabby rib down and right, just before the cliff swingsround to face the sea.

8 Waschbr 9 3c 540m Start up the slabby rib keeping slightly left left. Then headright to enter and follow the groove throughout to fine finishout on the arete. 12 bolts.FA. Hagen Goetzke Nov 2007

9 ARA 11 1tfc 5+40m As for the last route for 15m then straight up and left to aledge, then up the face aboveFA. Hagen Goetzke Nov 2007

0 Welt 17 c 6a+40m Start as for the previous route but continue up the groovefor 10m then climb the face on the left. Unbalanced and notreally recommended.FA. Hagen Goetzke Nov 2007

q Moria 1stc 540m A pleasant face climb. Start 2 metres right of the lastclimb. Trend rightwards to cross a groove, then things ease upin the upper half.FA. Hagen Goetzke April 2008

Morro Falqui seen from the Morairasea-caves. Photo: Chris Craggs Descent

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West Face

South Face

Sonjannika

Cala del TestosThe Hidden Beach (romthe Deep Water Rockax)

Barrancodel Testos

Deep WaterThe deep water soloing to the south oMorro Falqui is covered in the award-winning Rockax guidebook Deep Water.

It can be purchased rom the Rockaxweb site - www.rockfax.com

RG5 min


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Moro Falqui South Face Morro Falqui Sonjannika

Morro Falqui - SonjannikaThe final two routes are on the tall front face of thecliff overlooking the sea. Although these can beaccessed from above by four abseils (35m, 25m,35m, 45m - see topo) it is easier (and less gripping)to walk/scramble to the base of the cliff (via theCala del Testos if required) then traverse to the startof the route - see opposite. Swimming or somebouldering or DWS is possible whilst down there tomake a full day of fun and combine the best of theCosta Blanca.

a Silberruecken2tsc 6b83m The left-hand side of the lower tier in threeinteresting pitches.1) 4+, 30m From the first bolt of Sonjannikaclimbstraight up the slab, then move left and right overtwo steps.2) 6b, 25m Climb the crack on the right, then makesome tricky moves up the vertical face, finishing onan easier slab.3) 6a, 28m Traverse to the left then slightly rightto reach a huge cave. Exit from this on its left-handside via a bulge to reach another traverse to the leftto gain the top of the cliff.FA. May 2008

s Sonjannika 3tc 6a+170m A spectacular route with great (and sharp!)rock. With the walk round option on pitch 5, itmakes the whole route only 5+.

1) 4+, 40m Start with an easy pitch traversingdiagonally right on a slab.2) 5, 15m Climb up to a groove and then left tothe belay.3) 5+, 30m An S-shaped pitch, ending in a littlecave on an exposed pill ar.4) 5, 25m Exposed! Climb out of the cave with100m of fresh air below you, then up a pillar. Thebelay is higher up on a block 3m above a bushyledge.5) 6a+, 25m Climb up a short chimney, then moveright onto a slab to get to the top of a big flake. Acouple of fingery moves reach the next stance.5a) 40m Pitch 5 can be avoided by scramblinground to the left via a short section of fixed rope.6) 5+, 35m Climb up right for 5m, then another15m up a rib to a shallow groove. The block aboveis climbed on its right-hand side, then traversehorizontally left for 6m, around an edge. Move upto the belay.6a) 6a, 35m As for Moorhuhn Winter Edition.FA. Hagen Goetzke, Georg Goertz Sept 2006

To the right is another route (currently a project) thatruns up slabby rock to joinSonjannikaa short waybelow the ledge systems.

Out on the steep rock on the prow of the cliff is anline of bolts approached by abseil. No details areknow about it though it looks pretty tough!

Nina Moltrecht on the final pitch of Sonjannika.She left her rock-shoes in the car - hence thefootwear! Photo: Hagen Goetzke

Morro Falqui - South Face

The next pair of routes start either side of a small cave.

w Blu tzo l l 2sc 6b+35m Steep and sustained. Start left of the cave, reach a crackwhich leads up to an easier finishFA. Arnd Boehme April 2008

e Im Hagel 1fc 6b35m A juggy start on the right-hand side of the cave, leads toa fingery section in the middle. Finish up a groove.FA. Arnd Boehme April 2008

To reach 14 to 17 follow the ledge below 13 for 10 m, thenclimb up a fixed rope to reach a cave with a belay. These routeshave a hard start and easier finishes on perfect sharp grey rock.There are two lower-offs at the top, which can also be reachedfrom the top by scrambling down a fixed rope.

r Gold 2ftc 6b+25m Start just right of the belay and follow the golden boltsdirectly up the wall.FA. Arnd Boehme Nov 2007

t S i l b e r 1fc 6b25m From the belay traverse two metres right and thenstraight up the face following the silver bolts.FA. Arnd Boehme Nov 2007

y E d e l s t a h l 1c 6b25m Start up Silberand follow the stainless bolts, slightlyrightwards up the faceFA. Arnd Boehme May 2008

u Bla ttgold 2pc 6a+28m Traverse four metres right and a down a little from thebelay to reach the first golden bolt, then up the face, keepingto the right.FA. Arnd Boehme Nov 2007

The next routes start from the lower ledge. The first line is aproject.

i Hagen and the Test Tube Monkeys

2pc 6c+15m Very overhanging building to a big finish. Traverse to theright to reach a little cave, then power though the bulge to thebelay of routes 14-17. A real gorilla test-piece.FA. Hagen Goetzke Nov 2007

o BGM 1plc 5+30m An impressive groove is steep and juggy, but a bit looseat present. Wear a helmet while belaying or stay under the

overhang at the start. The fixed gear consists of many threads.Start left of the big groove with an overhanging face to reachan easy rib, leading up to the groove. Climb this on big holds.FA. Hagen Goetzke Oct 2005

p Moorhuhn Winter Edition 2c 6a35m Start from the shoulder at the end of the ledge. Featuressharp rock and technical climbing with some great positions.Head up the face to reach a shallow groove which is climbedon sharp holds.FA. Arnd Boehme Oct 2005

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SonjannikaArea

West Face

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Barrancodel Testos


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AlclalalMoro Falqui Sonjannika

Colin Binks (yes him again!) enjoying some Christmassunshine on La Bara(6b). Photo: Chris Craggs

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Short sectiono fxed ropeon detour orSonjannika

Sonjannika ApproachThis approach gains the Cala delTestos and the start o Sonjannika.Pass the supermarket as in thenormal cli-top approach, but stay onthe main road and ollow this downhillpast several sweeping bends to a to athree-way junction with a parking onthe let, 1.3km rom the supermarket(the road leads to the main beacho the Cumbre del Sol). Park hereand go back 20m up the road whereyou fnd steps leading down to theBarranca los Testos. Follow the gorge

or about 20 m inutes. There are 3sections that require steep down-climbing but they are equipped withropes. For a swim, head down to thebeautiul isolated beach that lies atthe end o the gorge. For access tothe climbing, turn let beore the 3rddown-climb and ollow a wire cable.Then walk through the giant caves tothe ront ace o the clis. Scrambledown 20m, traverse around thecorner and traverse another 30m tofnd a small path leading up to thestart o the route.


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Alcalal Alcalal Left

4 Stohlwitter 1psc 6a14m The red groove. Exit direct or right.

5 Optas 1fc 6a+14m The wall to a tricky finish.

6 Yorkshire Lads 2stc 6b18m The slab and left-hand tufa

7 Windle Poons 3tc 6c+26m The left-hand of the two long lines is excellent.

8 Elendigliches 3sc 6a+26m The line of pockets is already a classic.

9 No Tocar Los Bloques fc 6c+24m Sharp climbing up the grey slab and orange wall.

0 Diferente Partes 3fsc 6c24m Steep and juggy, and quite low in the grade.

q Akram the Terrible 3rc 7a24m Thin and reachy moves up the slab and wall.

w Corta y Du lce 1c 6b22m Up the slab and wall to a choice of finishes.

e La Bar ra 2fc 6b24m The orange wall just left of the spike then easier above.

r Esolero 1tc 6b24m From a block pass an old bolt and climb the face.

t De Tomberelo 2sc 6b24m Start right of the base of the ramp and go direct.

The first routes are on the far left-hand side.

1 Tasha Mitica 1c 420m The juggy rib on the left.

2 Ceder o no Ceder? c 414m A short line or continue up....

3 A i n e e 1c 4+26m Two short pitches or one long one.

Alcalal is the name given to the section o clean walls under the southern rim o theSerra de Seguli above the town o the same name. Since the Costa Blanca Rockaxguide was published in 2005, there has been a surge o development at Alalcali. Thenumber o routes has jumped rom 15 to 35 and many o the newer (courtesy o RichardDavies and Alan Austin) are very good indeed.

Approach (area map page 270)The crag is situated about 20km north o Calpe. I you are on the N332, drive northtowards Benissa and take the CV750 signed to Xal/Jaln. Drive through here and onor 3km to the town o Alcalal. At the T-junction in town turn let then immediately right

(signed Pego'). Continue down here or about 1km until the Alcalal crag can be seen, onthe right, above a bend in the road - parking or 3 cars.

AccessThere have been some problems with the routes on Alcalal Right which overlook a Villa.The routes on the ar r ight-hand side herehave been debolted. Please keep the noisedown i climbing on the other routes on thiswall. There is occasionally a restriction ornesting birds in the frst hal o the year onthis same wall. Signs are posted at the cragwhen this is in place.

ConditionsAlcalal aces is an all-day sun-trap. It is wellsheltered and can be a good place to heador i the weather is a bit grey or cold. I itis raining then there won't be much to doalthough the steeper routes may stay dry.

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ES2 min

ES2 min

Routes 1 to 3


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The Rockfax GuidebookThe amous Costa Blanca Rockax was published in January 2005.This contains inormation on 42 crags and over 2300 routes and is theessential companion to any climber visiting the area.

It can be purchased rom the Rockax web site - www.rockfax.com

Alcalal RightAlcalal Centre

Alcalal Right

d AA Confidential 1fc 7a18m The left-edge of the cave and the tufa above

f Cave Route Left 2tc 7b+28m The wall and groove above the cave - sustained.

g Hush Hush 1tc 7b+18m the wall above the cave avoiding holds on the last route.

h Cara Cortado 1sc 6c+20m The rib and tufas right of the cave.

j Cara Dura tfc 7b+30m The hard (and chipped) extension.

k Cave Route 3fsc 7b30m The sustained wall between the caves is hard and good.

l Escape Right 2fc 6b30m The steep wall above the cave to the point where it turnsdesperate (7b) where an unlikely sequence heads out right.

;Waylander 1rc 7a20m Devious climbing up the pale pocketed wall.

z Hyperbolic 3tfc 7a+20m A hard start leads to easier climbing above.

x Supa Tufa 3sc 7b22m Fine climbing, low in the grade, up the long tufa.

y 40 Thieves 2ftc 6c+25m Climb the right edge of the initial wall (7b+ direct) thenthe slab and wall.

u Cactus Climb 2fc 6c30m The steep w4all and groove lead to an exposed finale.

i Project c ?30m The part-bolted line to the right.

o Heaven Cant Wait 3c 7b+30m A bold start and tough upper section.

p B u s a b a 2rc 7a25m Good moves up the slab and tufas.

a S u d o k u 3fc 6c+35m Excellent and devious, though a little sharp.

s Multi-pitch Route 1fc 6c40m The two climb up the grey wall sees few ascents.

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IMPORTANTThere are more routes right o route 32. These directlyoverlook the garden o a local resident who is under-standably not pleased. In the interest o good relationswith locals please dont climb these routes - there areplenty o better routes to choose rom in the Blanca!

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Routes 6 to 15

More routeshere but

please avoidthem

ES ES2 min 2 min

Gui Am or Aria Escala Da

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