Korina Miller, Kate Armstrong, Alexis Averbuck, Michael Stamatios Clark, Anna Kaminski, Vesna Maric, Craig McLachlan, Zora O’Neill, Leonid Ragozin,

Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Helena Smith, Greg Ward, Richard Waters

Greece

Cycladesp331

Cretep438

Peloponnesep137

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NortheasternAegean Islands

p572Evia & theSporades

p633

SaronicGulf Islands

p311Dodecanese

p495

NorthernGreece

p244

CentralGreece

p198

Athens &Around

p60

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Greece . . . . . 4Greece Map . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Greece’s Top 20 . . . . . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 18First Time Greece . . . . . . 20What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Month by Month . . . . . . . 25Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Island Hopping . . . . . . . . 32Cruising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 43Outdoor Activities . . . . . 49Travel with Children . . . . 53Regions at a Glance . . . . 56

ATHENS & AROUND . . 60Athens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Athens Ports . . . . . . . . 126Around Athens . . . . . . . .131

PELOPONNESE . . . . .137Corinthia . . . . . . . . . . . . .141Argolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Argos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Ancient Mycenae . . . . . . . 145Nafplio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Epidavros . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Arkadia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Stemnitsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Dimitsana . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Leonidio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Lakonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Sparta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Mystras . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Monemvasia . . . . . . . . . . . 165The Mani . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Lakonian Mani . . . . . . . . . 169Messinian Mani . . . . . . . . . 173Messinia . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Kalamata . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Ancient Messini . . . . . . . . 179Koroni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Methoni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Pylos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Olympia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Olympia Town . . . . . . . . . 185Andritsena . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Achaïa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191Patra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191

CENTRAL GREECE . . 198Delphi & Sterea Ellada . .199Delphi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Galaxidi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Nafpaktos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Messolongi . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Karpenisi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Iti National Park . . . . . . . 217Meteora & Thessaly . . . 218Larissa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219

Volos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Pelion Peninsula . . . . . . . 223Trikala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235Meteora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Kalambaka . . . . . . . . . . . .240Kastraki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242

NORTHERN GREECE . . . . . . . . . . 244Macedonia . . . . . . . . . . 246Thessaloniki . . . . . . . . . . . 246Halkidiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Litohoro & Plaka Litohorou . . . . . . . . 272Veria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Edessa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Florina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278Kastoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280Kavala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Thrace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284Xanthi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284Alexandroupoli . . . . . . . . . 289Epiros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Ioannina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295To Nisi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298Zagorohoria . . . . . . . . . . .300Konitsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .304Arta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .306Parga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308

SARONIC GULF ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . .311Aegina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Angistri . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317Poros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318Hydra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321Spetses . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327

CYCLADES . . . . . . . . 331Andros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334Tinos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338Syros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343Mykonos . . . . . . . . . . . . 349Delos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Paros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361

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Cultural Treasure ChestStanding in the shadow of the Acropolis feels otherworldly. Greece is full of such moments. Step into the ring where Olympi-ans first competed. Climb steps hewn out of stone to Meteora’s monasteries, perched atop towering rocks. Contemplate the ora-cle’s insights from the grandeur of Delphi, take in a starlit drama at an ancient outdoor theatre and be stunned by massive marble sculptures dredged up from the Aegean. But then you’ll encounter bold modern art, the melancholic throb of rembetika (blues songs) and artisans creating new work from traditional techniques. Greece has endless cultural pursuits and a calendar bursting with festivals, holidays and exhibits.

Local FlavoursThe secret to Greek cooking is often found in the chef’s garden – regional produce and cooking styles make travelling here a culinary adventure. Taste herbs and moun-tain greens you’ve never heard of, mussels steamed in ouzo, bread baked with olives, and fish straight from the sea. Taste-test regional cheeses: crumbling feta, honeyed soft cheeses and sharp, hard rounds. Find Italian influences in pastas or Turkish spices in delicate sweets. A traditional-cooking renaissance has chefs lifting time-honoured recipes to new heights.

Socially SpiritedSocialising is more than a pastime in Greece – it’s a way of life. Cafes overflow with teenagers gossiping or older locals in heated debate. Restaurants are filled with long tables for big gatherings and friends amble arm in arm down the street. Squares are the focal point, where life unfolds col-lectively. Immerse yourself, whether it’s a coffee, a shot of ouzo, a chorus on the bouzouki or a local celebration. Greeks are passionate and live life to the fullest, even at the most difficult times. The result is a country seemingly riddled with challenges, yet full of people loving life.

Wildly NaturalWhether you’re a serious adrenalin junkie or dedicated beach bum, Greece will bewitch you. Days melt from one to the next under wide open skies and a sea speckled with islands that deliver the white-sand, palm-fringed beaches of your dreams. Wander along cobbled Byzantine footpaths, hike into volcanoes, watch for dolphins and sea turtles, and cycle through lush forests. Meander through olive groves, idyllic vil-lages and petrified forests. Thrill seekers will discover world-class kitesurfing, wreck diving, and rock-climbing locations with dizzying views. Or simply hop on a boat and set sail into the glittering blue beyond.

Welcome to Greece

Ancient sun-bleached ruins pierce blue skies as the Aegean laps at the endless

coastline. And Greek culture is alive with passionate music, inspired cuisine and

thrill-seeking activities.

4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Above: Mykonos (p349)

Why I Love GreeceBy Korina Miller, Writer

I first visited Greece as an 18-year-old, sleeping on the decks of slow-moving ferries, living on olives and feta, and constantly salt-crusted from swimming in the deep-blue Aegean. I’ve returned many times since – to watch a starlit performance at a 3rd-century-BC theatre; to wander through mysterious Minoan ruins; or to drink ouzo with locals who declare me family. I love Greece because magical moments like these aren’t so hard to find.

For more about our writers, see p784.

5

Best Places to Eat ¨ Taverna Vakhos (p207) ̈Taverna To Paramithi (p241) ¨ Taverna Angelika (p230) ¨ Taverna Niki (p227) ¨Brighton Food & Wine

(p221) ¨ Kritsa Hotel Restaurant

(p224)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Lost Unicorn Hotel & Restaurant (p230)

¨Old Silk Store (p229) ¨Doupiani House (p243) ¨ Alsos House (p240) ¨Hotel Alexakis (p218) ̈Iliovolo Guesthouse (p232)

When to Go

Apr & May Wild chamomile and red poppies mingle in alpine meadows.

Sep Warmer seas, sunny weather and fewer crowds.

Orthodox Easter Villages follow tra-ditional customs, with parades, dancing and copious food.

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Central GreeceWhy Go?Delphi – Ancient Greece’s centre or ‘navel’ of the earth – is these days among Greece’s most visited places for its archae-ological site, ancient footpaths and vistas of the Corinthian Gulf. Delphi is rivalled in popularity only by Meteora, the breathtaking outcrops of rocky towers topped by teetering monasteries (and rock climbers).

The central Greece (κεντρική Ελλάδα) region also holds many underrated surprises. Alpine meadows and valleys cover the Evritania mountain range, making it perfect for breezy summer hikes and winter skiing. And it doesn’t get much better than the beautiful Pelion Peninsula, home to Jason and the Argonauts, and criss-crossed with historic cobblestone paths linking lush mountain hamlets with coves and beaches that rival the best islands.

And speaking of ‘good, better, best’… The region’s good- natured people serve up hospitality, superb experiences and great cuisine. There’s no better place to navel-gaze.

Includes ¨Delphi ........................ 199Nafpaktos ...................212Messolongi .................214Karpenisi ....................215Iti National Park .........217Volos ..........................220Pelion Peninsula ....... 223Meteora ..................... 237Kalambaka ................240Kastraki ..................... 242

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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DELPHI & STEREA ELLADAGreek mythology and history mingle in the rugged landscape of Sterea Ellada. On the slopes of Mt Parnassos is the famous site of Ancient Delphi. The land stretches east to Attica, where legendary King Oedipus met his fate, and west to Messolongi, where bard Lord Byron died of fever during the Greek War of Independence. The region acquired its name,

meaning ‘Mainland Greece’, in 1827, as part of the newly formed nation.

Delphi Δελφοί%22650 / POP 2370

If the Ancient Greeks hadn’t chosen Delphi (from delphis, womb) as their navel of the earth and built the Sanctuary of Apollo here,

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1 Pelion Peninsula (p223) Wandering along the kalderimia (mule paths) to the sea.

2 Karpenisi (p215) Feasting on fresh trout from mountain streams.

3 Volos (p220) trying a tsipouro (spirit similar to raki) or three with the locals.

4 Meteora (p237) looking up, and up, at the monastery-topped rock pinnacles.

5 Damouhari (p228) Sea-kayaking to small coves in the blue aegean from the bay or losing yourself among the rare roses of nearby Serpentine Organic Garden.

6 Ancient Delphi (p201) Meditating over the last light of day at the Sanctuary of athena Pronea.

7 Iti National Park (p217) hiking the trails or lazing in the hot sulphur springs in loutra Ipatis.

Central Greece Highlights

Best Places to Eat ¨ Thalassino Ageri (p472)

¨ Peskesi (p448)

¨Taverna Panorama (p466)

¨Hope (p487)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Enagron Ecotourism Village (p464)

¨ Serenissima (p471)

¨ Villa Olga (p485)

¨ Eleonas Country Village (p455)

¨ Plakias Youth Hostel (p465)

When to Go

Jul & Aug High season. Queues at big sights, busy beaches. Hot days, balmy evenings, warm waters.

Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct Moderate tem-peratures, smaller crowds. Best time for hiking and out-door activities.

Nov–Mar Low season. Sights and restaurants scale back hours; beach resorts close. Major sights uncrowded.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

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CreteWhy Go?Crete (Κρήτη) is the culmination of the Greek experience. Nature here is as prolific as Picasso in his prime, creat-ing a dramatic quilt of big-shouldered mountains, stun-ning beaches and undulating hillsides blanketed in olive groves,vineyards and wildflowers. There are deep chiselled gorges,including one of Europe’s longest, and crystal-clear lagoons and palm-tree-lined beaches that conjure up the Caribbean.Crete’s natural beauty is equalled only by the richness of a history that spans millennia. The Palace of Knossos is but one of many vestiges of the mysterious ancient Minoan civilisation. Venetian fortresses, Turkish mosques and Byzantine churches bring history alive all over Crete, but nowhere more so than in charismatic Hania and Rethymno. Crete’s hospitable and spirited people uphold their unique culture, cuisine and customs. Local life and traditions remain a dynamic part of the island’s soul

Includes ¨Iraklio ........................443Iraklio Wine Country ....454Rethymno ..................456Moni Arkadiou ...........462Agia Galini ................. 467Hania ......................... 467Kissamos (Kastelli) ... 474Loutro ........................ 478Paleohora .................. 479Elafonisi .....................483Agios Nikolaos ..........483Lasithi Plateau ..........493

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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HistoryAlthough inhabited since Neolithic times (7000–3000 BC), Crete is most famous for being the cradle of Europe’s first advanced civilisation, the Minoan. Traces of this enig-matic society were only uncovered in the early 20th century, when British archaeolo-gist Sir Arthur Evans discovered the palace at Knossos and named the civilisation after its ruler, the mythical King Minos.

Minoans migrated to Crete in the 3rd millennium BC. Their extraordinary artistic, architectural and cultural achievements cul-minated in the construction of huge palace complexes at Knossos, Phaestos, Malia and Zakros, which were all levelled by an earth-quake around 1700 BC. Undeterred, the Minoans built bigger and better ones over the ruins, while settling more widely across Crete. Around 1450 BC, the palaces were mysteriously destroyed again, possibly by a tsunami triggered by a volcanic eruption on Santorini (Thira). Knossos, the only palace saved, finally burned down around 1400 BC.

Archaeological evidence shows that the Minoans lingered on for a few centuries in small, isolated settlements before disappear-ing as mysteriously as they had come. They were followed by the Mycenaeans and the Dorians (around 1100 BC). By the 5th cen-tury BC, Crete was divided into city-states but did not benefit from the cultural glories of mainland Greece; in fact, it was bypassed by Persian invaders and the Macedonian conqueror Alexander the Great.

By 67 BC Crete had become the Roman province of Cyrenaica, with Gortyna its cap-ital. After the Roman Empire’s division in AD 395, Crete fell under the jurisdiction of Greek-speaking Constantinople – the emerg-ing Byzantine Empire. Things went more or less fine until 824, when Arabs appropriated the island. In 961, though, Byzantine general emperor Nikiforas Fokas (912–69) won Crete back following a nine-month siege of Iraklio (then called El Khandak by the Arabs). Crete flourished under Byzantine rule, but with the infamous Fourth Crusade of 1204 the maritime power of Venice received Crete as part of its ‘payment’ for supplying the Cru-saders’ fleet.

Much of Crete’s most impressive surviv-ing architecture dates from the Venetian period, which lasted until 1669 when Iraklio (then called Candia) became the last dom-ino to fall after a 21-year Ottoman siege. Turkish rule brought new administrative

organisation, Islamic culture and Muslim settlers. Cretan resistance was strongest in the mountain strongholds but all revolts were put down brutally, and it was only with the Ottoman Empire’s disintegration in the late 19th century that Europe’s great powers expedited Crete’s sovereign aspirations.

Thus, in 1898, with Russian and French consent, Crete became a British protector-ate. However, the banner under which future Greek Prime Minister Eleftherios Venizelos and other Cretan rebels were fighting was Enosis i Thanatos (Unity or Death) – unity with Greece, not mere independence from Turkey. Yet it would take the Greek army’s successes in the Balkan Wars (1912–13) to turn Crete’s de facto inclusion in the country into reality, with the 1913 Treaty of Bucharest.

Crete suffered tremendously during WWII, due to being coveted by Adolf Hitler for its strategic location. On 20 May 1941 a huge flock of German parachutists quickly over-whelmed the Cretan defenders. The Battle of Crete, as it would become known, raged for 10 days between German and Allied troops from Britain, Australia, New Zealand and Greece. For two days the battle hung in the balance until the Germans captured the Maleme Air-field, near Hania. The Allied forces fought a valiant rearguard action, enabling the British Navy to evacuate 18,000 of the 32,000 Allied troops. The harsh German occupation lasted throughout WWII, with many mountain vil-lages bombed or burnt down and their occu-pants executed en masse.

8Getting There & AwayAIRMost travellers arrive in Crete by air, often with a change in Athens. travellers from North America need to connect via a European gateway city such as Paris, Amsterdam or Frankfurt and sometimes again in Athens. to reach Crete by air from other Greek islands also requires a change in Athens, except for some flights operated by Crete-based airline Sky Express (p760).

Iraklio’s Nikos Kazantzakis International Air-port (p449) is Crete’s busiest airport, although Hania (p473) is convenient for travellers heading to western Crete. Sitia (p490) only receives a handful of domestic and summertime interna-tional charter flights.

Between May and October, European low-cost carriers and charter airlines like easyJet (to Irak-lio) and Ryanair (to Hania) operate direct flights to Crete, mostly from the UK, Poland, Sweden and Italy. Ryanair also offers domestic flights to Hania from Athens and thessaloniki.

439

Best Places to Eat ¨Doukato (p376)

¨M-Eating (p355)

¨Captain Dimos (p389)

¨Cayenne (p428)

¨ Theoni’s Kitchen (p403)

¨O Ntinos (p343)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Red Tractor Farm (p435)

¨ Pension Sofi (p375)

¨Windmill of Karamitsos (p422)

¨ Stelios Place (p409)

¨ Francesco’s (p394)

When to Go

Apr–Jun Catch the early-season sun without overheating, and boats without overcrowding.

Jul & Aug Pros: sun, sea and sand, plus balmy nights and lively com-pany. Cons: peak crowds and prices.

Sep & Oct Quieter beaches, open spaces, the sweet scent of herbs, and great walks on island hills.

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CycladesWhy Go?On a quest to find the Greek islands of your dreams? Start, here, in the Cyclades (Κυκλάδες). Rugged, sun-drenched out-crops of rock, anchored in azure seas and liberally peppered with snow-white villages and blue-domed churches, this is Greece straight from central casting, with stellar archaeo-logical sites and dozens of postcard-worthy beaches. Throw in a blossoming food scene, some renowned party destina-tions and a good dose of sophistication, and you really do have the best of Greece’s ample charms.

The biggest surprise may be the variety found within this island group. Chase hedonism on Mykonos or Ios, history on Delos, hiking trails on Andros or Amorgos. Want a roman-tic break? Try Santorini. To escape reality? Pick Donousa or Anafi. You can ferry-hop to your heart’s content, enjoy long, lazy lunches at waterside tavernas, or simply lay claim to a sunbed by a spectacular beach. You’re living the dream.

Includes ¨Syros .........................343Mykonos ....................349Paros ..........................361Naxos ........................ 370Small Cyclades ..........381Amorgos .................... 387Ios ...............................391Santorini (Thira) .......396Folegandros ...............413Milos ...........................417Sifnos ........................ 425Serifos .......................429

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AdamasPollonia

NiborioKallianos

Pyrgi

Gavrio

Hora

Styra

Lavrio

Hora

Rafina

Parikia

Korissia

Koropi

Posidonia

Nea Makri

Kamares

Marathon

TinosTown

Keratea

Hora

Glyfada

Ioulida

Ermoupoli

Fira

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ATHENS

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#10 Anafi

1 Santorini (Thira) (p396) Being mesmerised by the dramatic volcanic cliffs.2 Ancient Delos (p359) Immersing yourself in history on this sacred island.3 Folegandros (p413) Wandering the streets of Hora.

4 Mykonos (p349) Partying until dawn.

5 Naxos (p370) Exploring quaint villages.

6 Milos (p417) Sunning yourself on stone cliffs or lazing in sandy coves.

7 Amorgos (p387) Marvelling at the dazzling cliffside monastery.

8 Tinos (p338) Exploring

marble villages and gorgeous dovecote valleys.

9 Small Cyclades (p381) Slipping away to serenity on these remote-feeling islands.

a Anafi (p410) Enjoying a slow-paced traditional lifestyle on this far-flung isle.

Cyclades Highlights

Best Places to Eat ¨Marco Polo Cafe (p505)

¨ Taverna Mylos (p556)

¨ To Ellenikon (p517)

¨ Tholos (p527)

¨ Pote Tin Kyriaki (p541)

Best Places to Stay

¨Marco Polo Mansion (p502)

¨Harry’s Paradise (p555)

¨ Archontariki (p563)

¨Old Markets (p527)

¨ In Camera Art Boutique Hotel (p503)

When to Go

Apr & May Prices are low, few tour-ists are around and the sea is warming up.

Jul & Aug Peak season for accom-modation and visitors – book ahead.

Sep & Oct Great time to come: low prices, warm seas and perfect hiking weather.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

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DodecaneseWhy Go?Ever pined for the old Greece, where timeless islands beckon modern-day adventurers just as they did Odysseus and Alex-ander? Enter the far-flung Dodecanese (Δωδεκάνησα; do-de-ka-ni-sa) archipelago, curving through the southeastern Aegean parallel to the ever-visible shoreline of Turkey. The footprints of everyone from Greeks and Romans to crusad-ing medieval knights, and Byzantine and Ottoman poten-tates to 20th-century Italian bureaucrats, are found here. Beyond better-known Rhodes and Kos, enigmatic islands beg to be explored.

Hikers and naturalists flock to Tilos, while climbers scale the limestone cliffs in Kalymnos. Aesthetes adore the neo-classical mansions of Symi, Halki and Kastellorizo, divers explore underwater caves and ancient wrecks, and kitesurf-ers blow in to Karpathos for its legendary winds. Archae-ologists and history buffs let their imaginations loose on a bevy of ancient sites, while sybarites can worship Helios on myriad beaches, far from the package crowds.

Includes ¨Rhodes ...................... 497Halki ...........................513Karpathos ..................515Kasos .........................520Symi .......................... 524Tilos ........................... 529Nisyros ...................... 533Kos ............................. 537Astypalea .................. 545Kalymnos ..................549Leros .......................... 555Patmos ......................560Arki & Marathi .......... 570

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Symi

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Karpathos

Saria

Kasos

Kos

KalymnosPserimosTelendos

Farmakonisi

AgathonisiArki

Marathi

Leros

Lipsi

PatmosIkarian Sea

Kerme Gulf

Karpathian Sea

Tilos

Nisyros

MandalyaGulf

Rhodes

CapePrasonisi

Agia Marina

Pothia

Kefalos

Gulluk

PalamutBükü

Datça

Analipsi

SkalaPatmos

Arki

Lipsi Village

Agios Georgios

Lakki

Pserimos

ZiaMastihari

Kardamena

Livadia

Fry

Mesa Vathy

Hora(Astipalea)

Turgutreis

Kattavia

Karpathos

SkalaKamirou

Diafani

Monolithos

Yatagan

Lindos

Argos

Mandraki

Milas

Laerma

Olymbos

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1 Rhodes Old Town (p498) Wandering beneath Byzantine arches and along ancient cobbled alleyways.

2 Olymbos (p519) Following the winding road up to this timeless village.

3 Kalymnos (p549) Testing your mettle diving for wrecks or climbing limestone cliffs.

4 Tilos (p529) Hiking or birdwatching on this postcard-perfect island.

5 Nisyros (p533) Entering its fabled volcano, home to an imprisoned Titan.

6 Symi (p524) Feeling your pulse quicken as your boat pulls into the gorgeous italianate harbour.

7 Patmos (p560) Making the pilgrimage to where St John experienced his ‘Revelations’.

8 Kastellorizo (Megisti) (p522) Gasping in awe at the largest and most dramatic of blue caves in the Mediterranean.

Dodecanese Highlights

Best Places to Eat ¨Dina’s Amfilirion

Restaurant (p638)

¨ Taverna-Ouzerie Kabourelia (p643)

¨ To Perivoli Restaurant (p648)

¨Hayiati (p654)

¨ Stefanos Taverna (p660)

Best Places to Stay

¨Hotel Nefeli (p657)

¨ Atrium Hotel (p645)

¨ Pension Sotos (p648)

¨ Liadromia Hotel (p653)

¨ Perigiali Hotel & Studios (p659)

When to Go

Feb & Mar Carni-val season keeps things warm with plenty of merrymaking.

Apr & May Spring is in the air and Easter festivities linger long into the night.

Jun & Sep Perfect temperatures and clear skies – ideal hiking and swim-ming conditions.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

Skiathos Town°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm

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Evia & the SporadesWhy Go?Evia (Εύβοια) and the four Sporades islands (Οι Σποράδες) remain largely off the beaten island path. Although Evia is Greece’s second-largest island, it seems hidden in plain view, separated from the mainland by the narrow Evripos Channel at Halkida. Away from this workaday hub, the pace slows as the landscape stretches out, dotted by hilltop mon-asteries, small farms, vineyards, hidden bays and curious goats.

Most visitors will use Evia as a jumping-off point for the gorgeous Sporades (‘scattered ones’). They seem like exten-sions of the forested Pelion Peninsula and, in fact, they were joined in prehistoric times. Skiathos, easily the most devel-oped, claims the sandiest beaches in the Aegean. Low-key Skopelos kicks back with a postcard-worthy harbour and forest meadows, while remote Alonnisos anchors a national marine park. Southerly Skyros is known for culinary and artistic traditions dating from Byzantine times, when these islands were home to rogues and pirates.

Includes ¨Evia ............................ 635Central Evia ................ 635Northern Evia .............638Southern Evia ............639The Sporades ............. 641Skiathos .................... 641Skopelos ....................645Alonnisos ..................650Skyros ....................... 655

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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STEREA ELLADA

THESSALY

Salamina

Peristera

Skantzoura

Sporades

Gioura

KyraPanagia

Piperi

Ypsili

DiaporioiIslands

Petali

Skyropoula

Dio Adelphi

Psathoura

PelionPeninsula

Palio Trikeri(Nisos)

SaronicGulf

Gulf ofMegaraKechries

Bay

AlkyonidesGulf

AegeanSea

PetaliaGulf

Gulf ofEvia

Gulf of Evia

PagasitikosGulf

LefkandiBay

KarystosBay

Vasilika Bay

Lake Ilíki

ParalímniLíni

Lake Dhistos

(Summer Only)

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SkiathosStrait

Mt Pliassidi(1651m)

Mt Parnitha(1413m)

Mt Ohi(1398m)

Mt Dirfys(1743m)

Mt Pelion(1455m)

CapeKafireas

CapeArtemisio

CapeSarakinko

ArchamboliBeach

AgiosDimitrios

Agia Apostoli

HiliadouBeach

Kanatadika Paralia Ellinikon

ParaliaHiliadou Kymi

Krieza

NeaStyra

Karystos

Marmari

Politika

LimnionasPili

GlyfaAgiokambos

AgiaMarina

Arkitsa

Paralia Kymis

Linaria

Platana

Lepoura

OhthoniaAvlonari

Kalamos

PortoBoufalo

Niborio

Myli Antia

PlatanistosPotami

LenoseiKallianos

Loutraki(GlossaPort) Kalamakia

Edipsos

Pefki

KotsikiaAngeli

KambiaSteni

Loutsa

SkiathosTown

SkyrosTownAgia

Anna

RoviaiLimni

Psahna

Nea Artaki

AliveriVasiliko

SkalaOropou

Eretria

Prokopi

IstieaOrei

Rafina

NeaMakri

AgiosGeorgios

Strofylia

AgiosKonstantinos

Neohori

Zarakes

Styra

Patitiri

Artemisio

Mantoudi

Theologos

Amarynthos

Halkida

Corinth

Volos

Piraeus

Loutraki Megara

Thiva(Thebes)

Livadia

ATHENS

Platanias

Milos Camping

RoviesCamping

#3

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LoutraEdipsou

Dimosari Gorge

Alonnisos

Skopelos

Skyros

Skopelos TownSkiathos

#Ù

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Thessaloniki(135km) #e

1 Manos Faltaïts Folk Museum (p657) delving into the artistic traditions and unique architecture of Skyros.

2 Bouzouki music (p648) hearing live music at ouzerie Anatoli, above the kastro overlooking Skopelos Town.

3 Dimosari Gorge (p641) hiking this lush spot in south

Evia, then cooling off in the sea near trail’s end.

4 Alonnisos (p651) Watching for dolphins while sailing around greece’s only national marine park.

5 Skopelos (p645) hiking the inland meadows among poppies and butterflies.

6 Skyros (p655) Nuzzling

up with one of the gentle and rare Skyrian horses.

7 Loutra Edipsou (p638) Swimming year-round in this thermal-fed bay on Evia.

8 Moni Evangelistrias (p645) Sampling the monks’ wine on Skiathos, where Greek independence was first declared in 1807.

Evia & the Sporades Highlights

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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7 707 70

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alex Jasper, Andrew Trotter, Chris Docker, Craig Wood, Daniel Kolodrubetz, Daria Fireman, Eric Poscher, Felix Widmer, George and Linda Moss, Indivar Kamtekar, Javier López, Louise Eckhardt, Marian Smith, Michael Williamson, Patrick Barfield, Robert Femenella, Sabine Gerull, Sain Alizada, Sonja Carter, Steven Tagle

WRITER THANKSKorina MillerA warm efharisto to all of the people in Greece who shared their stories, knowledge and enthusiasm for their country. Thank you to Brana at LP for bringing me on board and to my coauthors for their insights. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, Monique and Simone, for letting me work and also encouraging me to take breaks. Thanks to Kirk for being my rock and to Bing, the loyal coonhound, for keeping me com-pany while I burned the midnight oil.

Kate ArmstrongEfharisto poli to Brana, editor extraordinaire. And of course, my information-sharing Greek friends whose genuine love of both country and visitors is so humbling: the entire Zotos family in Nafplio; Apos-tolos in Attica; Mina in the Mani; Nena and Koula in

Stemnitsa; Aggela and Yiannis in Kardamyli. Finally, a huge thanks to my very own Christos who shared my love for everything from horta to the Taygetos Mountains. And who finally heard me say ta ellinika mu telionu ado in person.

Alexis AverbuckBoundless gratitude to Alexandra Stamopoulou for her INSPIRATION. She travels with me everywhere. Ryan is a peachy companion, on the road and off. Boundless thanks to Anthy, Costas and Matthew who first introduced me to Greece, and then to Hydra, the other love of my life. Efharisto poli to Oren who made researching Poros a blast, and to Rachel, Jenny and Timothy for their enthusiastic companionship. Margarita, Kostas, Zisis and Okeanida also make Greece home for me.

Michael Stamatios ClarkA hearty eυχαριστω to the generous, good-natured and persevering Greeks who shared their stories and tables with me. Among many friends and friendly strangers, special gratitude to Lena Spiliotopoulou (Amfissa), Nikos Petrochilos (archaeologist, Delphi), Jenny Panourgia (Naf-paktos), Jill Sleeman (Mouressi), Julia and Sofia (Loutra Ipatis), Yiannis Karkantas (Kalambaka), An-gelina Srebric (Meteora) and Anastasia Koutzouradi (Volos). A huge thanks for Brana Vladisavljevic’s unflappable help and common sense throughout. And to my Janet, Melina and Alexandros, couldn’t do it without you!

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

7 71BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Anna KaminskiA big thank you to Brana, for entrusting me with half of the Cyclades, and to everyone who helped me en route. In particular: Edd and Meg for research input in Mykonos and Delos; Aristoteles in Kea, Konstantinos in Syros for aiding a stranded travel writer; Alexander and Eleni in Kythnos; Spiros in Andros; Giorgios in Milos; Sofia and Dimitris in Tinos; and the good people in Milos who rented me a scooter that coped with sand, gravel and cobblestones.

Vesna MaricI would like to thank Tania, Stamathios and Maria in Thessaloniki, for their excellent gastronomic guidance, and to Nana for setting me up with great people. Big thanks to Damir Ugljen. Warmest thanks to my editor, Brana Vladisavljevic.

Craig McLachlanA hearty efharisto to everyone who helped out during my research trip, but especially to my exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko, who kept me on track, focused and constantly smiling. The Greek islands are a joy to island-hop through, and a big part of that joy comes from meeting and talking to happy Greeks! – thanks to you all.

Zora O’NeillMany thanks to Georgia Lale, Annia Ciezadlo, Ioanna Theodorou, Maria Papadimitriou, Rod Ben Zeev, Polycarpe Nana Toukam, Dora Papagiannou and everyone else who shared their knowledge of and affection for wonderful Athens. At Lonely Planet, thanks to editor Brana Vladisavljevic for being calm and collected, and to Alexis Averbuck for her work in previous years. And special thanks to Peter Moskos, who got me to Athens in the first place.

Leonid RagozinHuge thanks of all the wonderfully friendly Greek people – domatia and taverna owners, travel agents, ferry attendants, gas station employees, taxi drivers – for giving invaluable tips and helping out in all sorts of situations. You’ve once again reinforced my long-standing opinion that

Greece is possibly the best place to travel on Earth. I would also like to thank my wife, Maria Makeeva, for accompanying me on this journey, driving thousands of miles and helping with the research.

Andrea Schulte-PeeversBig heartfelt thank yous to all the wonderful peo-ple I met during my travels around Crete who so generously and patiently shared their knowledge, insights, wisdom and passion, and made me once again feel connected with the island.

Helena SmithThank you to Chara Stavropoulou and Manolis Avgerinos on Skyros for sharing their local knowledge, to Alexandra on Skopelos and to Amy on Alonnisos. And to everyone who was so generous and welcoming throughout Evia and the Sporades.

Greg WardThanks to the many wonderful people who helped me on my way around the Ionian Islands; without Greek hospitality I’d have learned a whole lot less and had a lot less fun into the bargain. And thanks as ever, with all my heart, to my dear wife Sam.

Richard WatersSpecial thanks to Fokas, Maria Cristofi, Skevos Travel, Marianna, George at GNTO, and all the Greek friends who helped me along the way with my research.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydro-logy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Illustrations pp70-1, pp452-3 by Javier Martinez Zarracina; pp202-3 by Michael Weldon.Cover photograph: Naoussa Harbour, Paros; Maurizio Rellini/4Corners ©

THIS BOOKThis 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Greece guidebook was researched and written by Korina Miller, Kate Armstrong, Alexis Averbuck, Michael Sta-matios Clark, Anna Kaminski, Vesna Maric, Craig McLachlan, Zora O’Neill, Leonid Ragozin, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Helena Smith, Greg Ward and Richard Waters. This guide-book was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Brana VladisavljevicProduct Editor Vicky SmithSenior Cartographer Anthony PhelanBook Designer Clara MonittoAssisting Editors Carolyn Bain, Judith Bamber, Carolyn Boicos, Kate Chapman, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Shona Gray, Carly Hall, Sandie Kestell, Kellie Langdon, Lou McGregor, Anne Mulvaney, Kristin Odijk, Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson,

Monique Perrin, Christopher Pitts, Sam WheelerAssisting Cartographers Corey Hutchison, Hunor Csutoros, Rachel Imeson, James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Ronan Abayawickrema, Hannah Cartmel, Elizabeth Jones, Kate Kiely, Anne Mason, Marissa Tejada, Gina Tsarouhas, Amanda Williamson

Best Places to Eat

¨White House (p674)

¨Carnayo (p677)

¨Nissi (p682)

¨ Prosilio (p699)

¨O Platanos (p706)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Perantzada 1811 (p694)

¨ Petani Bay Hotel (p690)

¨ El Sol Hotel (p704)

¨ Levant Hotel (p675)

¨ Torri E Merli (p678)

When to Go

May Life is still quiet while the wildflowers are in bloom everywhere.

Jul Escape the heat elsewhere in Greece by heading to the country’s coolest islands.

Sep Leaves change colour, and the robola grapes are harvested in Kefallonia.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

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Ionian IslandsWhy Go?With their cooler climate, abundant olive and cypress trees, and forested mountains, the Ionians (Τα Ιόνια Νησιά) are a lighter, greener variation on the Greek template. Venetian, French and British occupiers have all helped to shape the islands’ architecture, culture and (excellent) cuisine, and contributed to the unique feel of Ionian life.

Though the islands lie linked in a chain along the west coast of mainland Greece, each has its own distinct land-scape and history. Corfu Town holds Parisian-style arcades, Venetian alleyways and Italian-inspired delicacies. Lefkada boasts some of Greece’s finest turquoise-lapped beaches, while Kefallonia is adorned with soaring mountains and vineyards. Paxi’s Italianate harbour villages are impossi-bly pretty, and soulful Ithaki preserves wild terrain and a sense of myth. Zakynthos has sea caves and waters teeming with turtles, and Kythira offers off-the-beaten-track walks. The Ionians hold something new for adventure seekers, food lovers, culture vultures and beach bums alike.

Includes ¨Corfu (Kerkyra) .........663Paxi ............................ 676Antipaxi ..................... 679Lefkada ...................... 679Meganisi ....................684Kefallonia ..................685Ithaki ......................... 693Zakynthos .................696Kythira ........................701

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ALBANIA

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Antipaxi

Atokos

KalamosMeganisi

Oxia

ErikousaOthoni

Mathraki

DiapoondiaIslands

Kastos

IonianSea

Ambracian Gulf

ZakynthosStrait

Bay ofLaganas

South Kerkyra

Straits

Mt Smolikas(2637m)

Mt Gamila(2497m)

Myrtos Beach

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CapeTripiti

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Paleros

PelekasErmones

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Ionian Islands Highlights1 Corfu Town (p665) Exploring world-class museums, fortresses and restaurants, as well as Venetian, French and British architecture.

2 Paxi (p676) Hopping from one gorgeous harbour to another on this tiny pastoral island.

3 Fiskardo (p691) Savouring the flavours in the waterfront restaurants of Kefallonia’s best-preserved historic village.

4 Kefallonia (p685) Diving and kayaking in the myriad magnificent bays that pepper Kefallonia’s coastline.

5 Beaches Ranking your favourite strips of sand, from the busiest on Corfu (p674) and Zakynthos (p699) to the quieter joys of Paxi (p676) and Lefkada’s west coast (p683).

6 Ithaki (p693) Walking in the footsteps of epic poet Homer.

7 Kythira (p701) Discovering tiny villages, waterfalls and remote coves.

Best Places to Eat ¨Marymary (p584)

¨ Thea’s Restaurant & Rooms (p583)

¨ AAA Taverna (p594)

¨ Kechribari Ouzerie (p598)

¨ Spitalia (p605)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Rooms Dionysos (p581)

¨ Archipelagos Hotel (p586)

¨Hotel Kyma (p614)

¨ Ino Village Hotel & Restaurant (p589)

¨ A for Art (p629)

When to Go

Apr & May Wild red poppies adorn the backroads and Greek Easter livens up every village.

Jul & Aug Beach bars and village councils (in Ikaria’s case) throw wild parties for holiday-ing revellers.

Oct & Nov Sum-mer crowds evap-orate, and hearty soups return to the tavernas.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

Vathy (Samos)°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm

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Northeastern Aegean Islands

Why Go?The northeastern Aegean Islands (τα νησιά του Βορειοα­νατολικού Αιγαίου) are notable for their proximity to the Turkish mainland. Influences from Asia Minor abound in old-fashioned island cuisines, traditional village culture, dramatic celebrations and even the language.

Eccentric Ikaria is marked by jagged landscapes, pristine beaches and a famously long-lived, left-leaning population. Nearby Chios provides fertile ground for the planet’s only gum-producing mastic trees. Other islands range from ram-bling Lesvos, producer of half the world’s ouzo, to midsized islands such as semitropical Samos and workaday Limnos, and bright specks in the sea such as Inousses and Psara. Samothraki is home to the ancient Sanctuary of the Great Gods, while well-watered Thasos seems an extension of the mainland.

Lesvos, Chios and Samos offer easy connections to Tur-key’s coastal resorts and historic Hellenic sites.

Includes ¨Ikaria ......................... 576Fourni Islands ............ 585Samos ....................... 587Chios .........................594Inousses ....................602Lesvos (Mytilini) .......605Limnos .......................617Samothraki ............... 623Loutra ........................ 625Thasos ....................... 627

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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0 50 km0 25 miles

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DLavrio (10km)

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1 Hristos Rahes (p582) Getting post-midnight coffee and spoon sweets in the nocturnal capital of Ikaria.

2 Psarotaverna O Miltos (p587) Enjoying sunset and the Aegean’s best lobster spaghetti dish.

3 Potami Beach (p593) Finding a secret taverna above

the wooded waterfalls after lazing on a marble gravel beach.

4 Teriade Museum (p607) discovering a treasure trove of top-notch art in Mytilini Town.

5 Blue Fox (p612) Watching yachts sailing through a turquoise bay while sipping cezve (Turkish) coffee in charming Molyvos.

6 Mastiha House (p602) Lodging in castle-like apartments in Pyrgi.

7 Sanctuary of the Great Gods (p626) Contemplating the cult of ancient gods who preceded the Olympians.

8 Mineral Baths of Eftalou (p611) daydreaming in an ancient thermal pool on Lesvos.

Northeastern Aegean Islands Highlights

Best Places to Eat ¨Mourgá (p258)

¨ Extravaganza (p258)

¨ I Nea Follia (p258)

¨ Sempriko (p259)

¨ Taverna Sopotseli (p303)

¨ Palaia Polis (p286)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Trilogy House (p256)

¨ Primoula (p303)

¨ Kokkino Spiti (p275)

¨Caravan (p257)

¨Boutique Hotel 1905 (p286)

When to Go

May–Aug Sizzle on beaches and swim in perfect waters in Parga and Halkidiki.

Sep–Nov Bask in lower coastal prices then hit Thessaloniki’s restaurants and film festivals.

Dec–Apr Snug-gle into a ski lodge near Flo-rina or explore the villages of Zagorohoria.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

Thessaloniki°C/°F Temp

0/32

10/50

20/68

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40/104

Rainfall inches/mm

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8/200

Northern GreeceWhy Go?Diversity should be northern Greece’s second name – the region stretches across more cultures and terrains than any other in the country. Mighty civilisations, including Macedoni-ans, Thracians, Romans, Byzantines, Slavs and Turks, have left traces here. this is nowhere more apparent than in Greece’s second city, Thessaloniki – a magnetic place that breathes his-tory and character, and has the best food in the country.

Border influences from Albania, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, Bulgaria and Turkey add to the region’s distinctive flair. Northern Greece boasts beautiful beaches, too – especially in popular Halkidiki and around Parga, along the golden Ionian coast. The plains and wood-lands of Thrace offer rich birdlife. Ruins at Ancient Dion and the archaeological site at Vergina will leave you breath-less, and if they don’t, Epiros, to the west, will, with its per-fect mountain life, mysterious villages and one of Europe’s biggest canyons.

Includes ¨Thessaloniki .............. 246Halkidiki .................... 265Veria .......................... 274Kastoria .....................280Kavala ........................ 282Xanthi ........................284Alexandroupoli ..........289Orestiada ................... 292Ioannina .................... 295To Nisi ........................298Zagorohoria ..............300Parga .........................308

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Best Places to Eat ¨ Elies (p175)

¨ Kavalaris Corner Mezedopoleio (p151)

¨Chromata (p164)

¨Chrisovoulo (p167)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Antares (p172)

¨Mazaráki Guesthouse (p164)

¨Mpelleiko (p155)

¨ Pension Marianna (p150)

When to Go

Easter The pomp and ceremony of religious festivi-ties during Ortho-dox Easter week are unforgettable.

Apr–Jun Perfect hiking and beach weather, without the summer crowds.

Sep Take part in the gruelling Spartathlon…if you think you’re tough enough.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

Nafplio°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm

0/32

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20/68

30/86

40/104

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0.39/15

0.79/20

PeloponneseWhy Go?The Peloponnese (Πελοπόννησος) is the stuff of legends. Lit-erally. It is here that Hercules fought the Nemean lion and gods walked the earth, meddling in mortal affairs; it’s from here that Paris of Troy eloped with Helen and the Argonauts set sail in search of the Golden Fleece. Celestial and mytho-logical charms aside, this region bears tangible traces of the many civilisations that once called it home, witnessed in its classical temples, Mycenaean palaces, Byzantine cities, and Ottoman, Frankish and Venetian fortresses.

The very topography that kept invaders at bay for cen-turies – lofty, snowcapped mountains, vast gorges, sandy beaches and azure waters – now draws visitors of a very different kind. Filoxenia (hospitality) is as strong here as anywhere in the country; the food is among Greece’s best; and the region’s vineyards are contributing to Greece’s wine renaissance. Locals claim to have the best of everything to give. And that’s no myth.

Includes ¨Corinthia .................... 141 Ancient Mycenae ...... 145Nafplio ........................146Epidavros ...................152Stemnitsa ...................155 Sparta .........................159Mystras ...................... 161Monemvasia ...............165The Mani ................... 168Messinia .....................176Olympia ..................... 184 Kalamata ....................176Andritsena ................ 190Patra ........................... 191

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Peloponnese Highlights1 Monemvasia (p165) Soaking up the past and present of an ancient walled city.

2 Ancient Olympia (p185) Marvelling at this sanctuary, the birthplace of the Olympic games.

3 Mani (p168) Hiking one of greece’s most remote and rugged regions and spending a night in a traditional Maniot tower house.

4 Menalon Trail (p156) Hiking this stunning trail through the lousios gorge and charming mountain villages Stemnitsa and Dimitsana.

5 Mystras (p161) Meandering through the magical World Heritage–listed ruins of the former Byzantine capital.

6 Ancient Mycenae (p145) Tapping into the ghost of Agamemnon at this incredible historic site.

7 Vouraïkos Gorge (p196) Tackling the dramatic gorge via the unique rack-and-pinion train or on foot from the beautiful village of Kalavryta.

Best Places to Eat ¨On the Verandah (p330)

¨ Techne (p327)

¨Oraia Hydra (p325)

¨ Aspros Gatos (p321)

¨Miltos (p317)

¨ Akrogialia (p330)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Poseidonion Grand Hotel (p329)

¨Hydra Hotel (p323)

¨Rosy’s Little Village (p317)

¨Orloff Resort (p330)

¨Sirene Blue Resort (p320)

When to Go

Apr & May The islands awaken after winter; come for flower-filled Easter.

Jun Celebrate Miaoulia in Hydra with sparkling waters and warm weather.

Sep The best-kept secret: clear skies, thinning crowds and Spetses’ Armata celebration.

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Saronic Gulf IslandsWhy Go?The Saronic Gulf Islands (Νησιά του Σαρωνικού) dot the waters nearest Athens and offer a fast track to Greek island life. As with all Greek islands, each of the Saronics has a unique feel and culture, so you can hop between classical heritage, resort beaches, exquisite architecture and remote escapism.

Aegina is home to a spectacular Doric temple and ruined Byzantine village, while nearby pine-clad Angistri feels pro-tected and peaceful outside of the booming midsummer months. Further south, Poros, with its forested hinterland, curves only a few hundred metres from the Peloponnese. The Saronic showpiece, Hydra, is a gorgeous car-free island with a port of carefully preserved stone houses rising from a chic, history-charged harbour. Deepest south of all, pine-scented Spetses also has a vibrant nautical history and pretty town architecture, plus myriad aqua coves only minutes from the Peloponnese.

Includes ¨Aegina ........................313Aegina Town ...............314Angistri .......................317Poros ..........................318Poros Town .................319Hydra ..........................321Hydra Town .................321Spetses ..................... 327Spetses Town ............ 328

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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1 Hydra (p321) Bouncing between the gorgeous port, with its excellent museums and stylish scene, and the island’s deserted trails and ubiquitous swimming rocks.

2 Aegina (p313) delving into ancient history at the beautiful Temple of Aphaia and

Byzantine village, Paleohora, then sipping seaside cocktails.

3 Spetses (p327) Taste testing your way through top restaurants, tracing the region’s history in the town’s museums, or cycling the island’s ring road to dip into sparkling bays.

4 Angistri (p317) Getting away from it all in the low season, when the beaches are most tranquil.

5 Poros (p318) Exploring the peaceful, forested interior and strolling the cafe-lined quay in town, or trying out the family-run tavernas.

Saronic Gulf Islands Highlights

GREECE TODAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 708Greek society remains spirited in the face of an ailing economy, ever-increasing austerity measures and a humanitarian refugee crisis.

HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 710Greece’s cultural influence, physical prowess and athleticism of mind have left deep historical footprints.

ANCIENT GREEK CULTURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 726Ancient Greece is the grandmother of philosophy, the keeper of classical sculpture and the wellspring of stories and myths.

THE GREEK WAY OF LIFE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 730Independent yet family oriented, overeducated yet under-employed – the Greek way of life is rife with paradoxes.

THE ARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 733Greece’s contemporary page-turners, music styles and thought-provoking modern-art scene.

ARCHITECTURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 738Discover Greece’s influence on architecture around the globe, along with where to see the best-preserved temples and ruins.

NATURE & WILDLIFE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 743With mountainous interiors and unending ribbons of coastline, the great Greek outdoors offers everything from birds and turtles to orchids and oregano.

Understand Greece

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Austerity MeasuresThe numerous multi-billion-euro bailouts loaned to Greece by its EU and International Monetary Fund (IMF) creditors since 2009 have come with strong strings. To secure them, the Greek government was forced to imple-ment austerity measures that saw severe wage and pen-sion cuts and increased taxes while living costs soared at an unpalatable rate. At the same time, unemployment reached around 23%.

Austerity measures and declining living standards have also widened Greece’s stark economic and social disparities – the hedonistic lifestyles of Athenians tak-ing weekend jaunts to Mykonos bear no resemblance to struggling pensioners whose pensions have been cut by 40%. Homelessness, suicides and once-rare vio-lent crime have risen. Growing anger and social unrest has sparked mass strikes, demonstrations and violent clashes with police. Disillusioned young Greeks are bearing the brunt of years of economic mismanage-ment – the country’s most educated generation faces bleak prospects as the level of youth unemployment sits at 46%. There is a feeling of despair that is decid-edly un-Greek.

Immigration & AsylumThe primary entry point for immigrants to Europe, Greece has seen 1.3 million people arrive in the country since 2015 in search of safety and a better life, often hop-ing to reunite with family in other European countries. Most come from Afghanistan, Iraq, Syria and Africa via the porous Turkish border and Greece’s outlying islands.

In 2016 a deal between the EU and Turkey brought the closure of European borders with Greece and a plan to return illegal migrants to Turkey, in an at-tempt to discourage migrants from crossing the ocean

Greece Today

Best in PrintSomething Will Happen, You’ll See (Christos Ikonomou; 2016) Moving short stories of characters caught in the financial crisis.Odyssey (Homer; 8th century BC) Plagued by Poseidon, Odysseus strug-gles to return home to Ithaca.Zorba the Greek (Nikos Kazantzakis; 1946) A spiritual bible to many; one man’s unquenchable lust for life.The Magus (John Fowles; 1966) Creepy mind games set on fictional Phraxos.Falling for Icarus: A Journey among the Cretans (Rory MacLean; 2004) A travel writer builds a plane in Icarus.

Best on Film300 (2007) Testosterone-fuelled retelling of the Spartans’ epic stand against the Persians in the Battle of Thermopylae, 480 BC.Mamma Mia (2008) The island of Skopelos shines to an Abba soundtrack.Guns of Navarone (1961) Allied soldiers enter Nazi-occupied Greece in this compelling thriller.Shirley Valentine (1989) Classic Greek-island romance on Mykonos.Captain Corelli’s Mandolin (2001) Lavish retelling of Louis de Bernières’ novel set in occupied Greece.

Greek resilience has been stretched thin, leaving many disillusioned and apprehensive of a future in the European Union. The continued deterioration of the Greek economy is taking its toll on virtually every aspect of society. Few have been unaffected by savage wage and pension cuts, new taxes and record joblessness. Meanwhile, thousands of refugees who hoped to cross through Greece to other areas of Europe are trapped by closed borders, causing a humanitarian crisis that Greece is struggling to deal with.

708 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd