Great Britain 13 - Preview - Lonely Planet · 2019-04-11 · Great Britain Oliver Berry, Fionn...

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Great Britain Oliver Berry, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Damian Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Lorna Parkes, Andy Symington, Greg Ward, Neil Wilson # # _ _ Oxford & the Cotswolds Bath & Southwest England Birmingham & the Midlands Yorkshire p479 Newcastle & Northeast England p606 Glasgow & Southern Scotland Cambridge & East Anglia p360 Canterbury & Southeast England p151 The Lake District & Cumbria p568 Manchester, Liverpool & Northwest England p533 Cardiff, Pembrokeshire & South Wales p639 Brecon Beacons & Mid-Wales p679 Snowdonia & North Wales p704 Inverness & the Highlands & Islands p884 Stirling & Central Scotland Edinburgh p745 London p68 p231 p399 p185 p789 p826 ! ! ! ! ! ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Transcript of Great Britain 13 - Preview - Lonely Planet · 2019-04-11 · Great Britain Oliver Berry, Fionn...

Page 1: Great Britain 13 - Preview - Lonely Planet · 2019-04-11 · Great Britain Oliver Berry, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Damian Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan,

Great Britain

Oliver Berry, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Damian Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Lorna Parkes, Andy Symington, Greg Ward, Neil Wilson

#

#

_

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Oxford &the Cotswolds

Bath &Southwest

England

Birmingham &the Midlands

Yorkshirep479

Newcastle &Northeast England

p606

Glasgow &SouthernScotland

Cambridge &East Anglia

p360

Canterbury &Southeast England

p151

The Lake District& Cumbria

p568

Manchester, Liverpool& Northwest England

p533

Cardiff, Pembrokeshire& South Wales

p639

Brecon Beacons& Mid-Wales

p679

Snowdonia &North Wales

p704

Inverness &the Highlands &

Islandsp884

Stirling &Central Scotland

Edinburgh p745

London p68

p231

p399

p185

p789

p826

!

!

!

!

!

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Welcome to Great Britain . . . . . . . . . . . .6Great Britain Map . . . . . . . .8Great Britain’s Top 26 . . .10Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 22First Time Great Britain . . . . . . . . . . 24What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 26If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Month by Month . . . . . . . .31Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 36The Great Outdoors . . . . 42Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 48Travel with Children . . . . 54Regions at a Glance . . . . 58

ENGLAND . . . . . . . 65LONDON . . . . . . . . . . 68

CANTERBURY & SOUTHEAST ENGLAND . . . . . . . . .151Kent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Canterbury . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Whitstable . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Margate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Dover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165East Sussex . . . . . . . . . . 167Rye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Hastings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171South Downs National Park . . . . . . . . . . 173Lewes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Brighton & Hove . . . . . . . . 175West Sussex . . . . . . . . . 182Chichester . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183

OXFORD & THE COTSWOLDS . . . . . . 185Oxford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187The Cotswolds . . . . . . . 201Cirencester . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Bibury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Burford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205Northleach . . . . . . . . . . . . .206The Slaughters . . . . . . . . .208Stow-on-the-Wold . . . . . .208Chipping Norton . . . . . . . .209Chipping Campden . . . . . 210Broadway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Moreton-in-Marsh . . . . . . 213Winchcombe . . . . . . . . . . . 217Western Gloucestershire . . . . . . 218Cheltenham . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Forest of Dean . . . . . . . . . 221Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire & Hertfordshire . . . . . . . . 223St Albans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224

Woburn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225The Thames Valley . . . . 226Windsor & Eton . . . . . . . . . 226Bray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230

BATH & SOUTHWEST ENGLAND . . . . . . . . 231Bristol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Somerset . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Wells & Around . . . . . . . . . 255Glastonbury . . . . . . . . . . . . 257Hampshire . . . . . . . . . . . 260Winchester . . . . . . . . . . . .260New Forest . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263Isle of Wight . . . . . . . . . 266Dorset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271Bournemouth . . . . . . . . . . 271Poole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273Lulworth Cove & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275Dorchester & Around . . . . 277Weymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279Isle of Portland . . . . . . . . .280Chesil Beach . . . . . . . . . . . 281Lyme Regis . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Sherborne . . . . . . . . . . . . .284Wiltshire . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Salisbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286Stonehenge . . . . . . . . . . . . 289Longleat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291Lacock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292Avebury & Around . . . . . . 293Exmoor National Park . . 295Devon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Exeter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Torquay & Around . . . . . . 307Dartmouth & Around . . . .309Totnes & Around . . . . . . . . 311Plymouth & Around . . . . . 313Dartmoor National Park . .318Ilfracombe & Around . . . . 325Cornwall . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327Bude . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328

ON THE ROAD PLAN YOUR TRIP

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Contents

Boscastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329Tintagel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .330Padstow & Rock . . . . . . . . 331Newquay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333St Ives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337Zennor & St Just . . . . . . . 341Penzance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343The Lizard . . . . . . . . . . . . .346Falmouth & Around . . . . . 347Truro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350Fowey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351Looe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353Bodmin Moor . . . . . . . . . . 354Isles of Scilly . . . . . . . . . 355

CAMBRIDGE & EAST ANGLIA . . . . . 360Cambridgeshire . . . . . . 361Cambridge . . . . . . . . . . . . .364Ely . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376Essex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378Colchester . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378Southend-On-Sea . . . . . . . 381Suffolk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382Long Melford . . . . . . . . . . . 382Lavenham . . . . . . . . . . . . .384Bury St Edmunds . . . . . . .384Aldeburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . .386Southwold . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387Norfolk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388Norwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .388Cromer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391King’s Lynn . . . . . . . . . . . . 397

BIRMINGHAM & THE MIDLANDS . . . 399Birmingham . . . . . . . . . . 402Warwickshire . . . . . . . . . 410Coventry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410Kenilworth . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412Warwick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413Stratford-upon-Avon . . . . 415Staffordshire . . . . . . . . . 421Lichfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421

Worcestershire . . . . . . . 423Worcester . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424Great Malvern . . . . . . . . . . 425Herefordshire . . . . . . . . 426Hereford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427Ledbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .428Shropshire . . . . . . . . . . . 430Shrewsbury . . . . . . . . . . . .430Ironbridge Gorge . . . . . . . 433Much Wenlock . . . . . . . . . . 437Bridgnorth . . . . . . . . . . . . .438Church Stretton . . . . . . . .438Ludlow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .440Nottinghamshire . . . . . 443Nottingham . . . . . . . . . . . .443Lincolnshire . . . . . . . . . . 449Lincoln . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .449Boston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453Stamford . . . . . . . . . . . . . .454Leicestershire . . . . . . . . 455Leicester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Rutland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .460Derbyshire . . . . . . . . . . . 461Derby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461Matlock Bath . . . . . . . . . . .464Chesterfield . . . . . . . . . . . .466Peak District . . . . . . . . . 466Buxton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .469Castleton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472Bakewell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476

YORKSHIRE . . . . . . . 479North Yorkshire . . . . . . . 483York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .483Harrogate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492Scarborough . . . . . . . . . . .495North York Moors National Park . . . . . . . . 498Helmsley . . . . . . . . . . . . . .499Pickering . . . . . . . . . . . . . .502Whitby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .502Yorkshire Dales National Park . . . . . . . . 507Skipton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507

Grassington . . . . . . . . . . . .509Malham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511Richmond . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513West Yorkshire . . . . . . . 514Leeds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514Bradford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521Hebden Bridge . . . . . . . . . 522Haworth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524South Yorkshire . . . . . . 525Sheffield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526East Riding of Yorkshire . . . . . . . . . . 528Hull . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528Beverley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531

MANCHESTER, LIVERPOOL & NORTHWEST ENGLAND . . . . . . . . 533Manchester . . . . . . . . . . 536Chester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548Liverpool . . . . . . . . . . . . 551Lancashire . . . . . . . . . . . 561Blackpool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561Lancaster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 562Ribble Valley . . . . . . . . . . .564Isle of Man . . . . . . . . . . . 565

THE LAKE DISTRICT & CUMBRIA . . . . . . . 568The Lake District . . . . . 572Windermere & Around . . . 572Ambleside . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577Grasmere . . . . . . . . . . . . . .580Hawkshead . . . . . . . . . . . . 582Coniston . . . . . . . . . . . . . .584Elterwater & Great Langdale . . . . . . . . .586Cockermouth . . . . . . . . . . 588Keswick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589Borrowdale . . . . . . . . . . . . 592Buttermere . . . . . . . . . . . . 593Ullswater & Around . . . . . 595Kendal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596

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Cumbrian Coast . . . . . . 598Northern & Eastern Cumbria . . . . . .600Carlisle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600Penrith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .602

NEWCASTLE & NORTHEAST ENGLAND . . . . . . . . 606Newcastle-upon-Tyne . . . 610Tynemouth . . . . . . . . . . . . 617Durham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 618Barnard Castle . . . . . . . . . 621Hadrian’s Wall . . . . . . . . . . 622Northumberland National Park . . . . . . . . . .628Northumberland Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .629

WALES . . . . . . . . . 637CARDIFF, PEMBROKESHIRE & SOUTH WALES . . . 639Cardiff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 641Monmouthshire (Sir Fynwy) . . . . . . . . . . 652Chepstow (Cas-gwent) . . .653Lower Wye Valley . . . . . . . 653Abergavenny (Y Fenni) . . . 654South Wales Valleys . . . 656Blaenavon (Blaenafon) . . . . . . . . . . . . 656Swansea Bay & the Gower . . . . . . . . . 658Swansea (Abertawe) . . . . 658The Mumbles (Y Mwmbwls) . . . . . . . . . . 661Gower Peninsula (Y Gŵyr) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .662Carmarthenshire (Sir Gaerfyddin) . . . . . . 665Llanarthne . . . . . . . . . . . . . 665Llandeilo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 665Pembrokeshire . . . . . . . 667Saundersfoot . . . . . . . . . . 667

Tenby (Dinbych Y Pysgod) . . . . . . . . . . . . .668Narberth (Arberth) . . . . . 670St Davids (Tyddewi) . . . . . 671Porthgain & Around . . . . . 674Fishguard (Abergwaun) . . .676Newport (Trefdraeth) . . . 677

BRECON BEACONS & MID-WALES . . . . . 679Brecon Beacons National Park . . . . . . . . 681Hay-on-Wye (Y Gelli Gandryll) . . . . . . . 681Black Mountains (Y Mynyddoedd Duon) . . . 684Crickhowell (Crughywel) . . . . . . . . . . . 685Brecon (Aberhonddu) . . .686Fforest Fawr & Black Mountain . . . . . . . . .689Powys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 690Llanwrtyd Wells (Llanwrtyd) . . . . . . . . . . . . 691Builth Wells (Llanfair-Ym-Muallt) . . . . . 692Rhayader (Rhaeadr Gwy) . . . . . . . . . 693Montgomery . . . . . . . . . . .694Welshpool (Y Trallwng) . . . 695Machynlleth . . . . . . . . . . . .696Ceredigion . . . . . . . . . . . 698Aberystwyth . . . . . . . . . . .698Aberaeron . . . . . . . . . . . . . 701Cardigan (Aberteifi) . . . . . 702

SNOWDONIA & NORTH WALES . . . . . 704North Wales Borderlands . . . . . . . . . . 706Ruthin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 706Llangollen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707Snowdonia National Park (Parc Cenedlaethol Eryri) . . . 710Dolgellau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 710

Barmouth (Abermaw) . . . 713Harlech . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 714Blaenau Ffestiniog . . . . . . 715Betws-y-Coed . . . . . . . . . . 716Llanberis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 718Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa) . . . 720Beddgelert . . . . . . . . . . . . . 722Llŷn Peninsula . . . . . . . 723Porthmadog . . . . . . . . . . . 724Aberdaron . . . . . . . . . . . . . 726The North Coast . . . . . . 727Caernarfon . . . . . . . . . . . . 727Bangor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 729Conwy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 732Llandudno . . . . . . . . . . . . . 736Isle of Anglesey (Ynys Môn) . . . . . . . . . . 739Beaumaris (Biwmares) . . .739Holyhead (Caergybi) . . . . 741

SCOTLAND . . . . . 743EDINBURGH . . . . . . 745

GLASGOW & SOUTHERN SCOTLAND . . . . . . . 789Glasgow . . . . . . . . . . . . . 792Borders Region . . . . . . . 812Peebles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 812Melrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 813Jedburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 815Kelso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 816Dumfries & Galloway . . . 817Dumfries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 817South of Dumfries . . . . . . 819Kirkcudbright . . . . . . . . . . 819Galloway Forest Park . . . . 821Rhinns of Galloway . . . . . 822

STIRLING & CENTRAL SCOTLAND . . . . . . . 826Stirling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 827Fife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 835

ON THE ROAD

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Contents

St Andrews . . . . . . . . . . . .836East Neuk . . . . . . . . . . . . .840Dunfermline . . . . . . . . . . .844Culross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .844Dundee & Angus . . . . . . 845Dundee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 845Arbroath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .849Aberdeenshire . . . . . . . . 850Aberdeen . . . . . . . . . . . . . .850Moray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 855Elgin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 855Dufftown & Aberlour . . . . 856Loch Lomond & the Trossachs . . . . . . 856Argyllshire . . . . . . . . . . . 861Oban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 861Mull . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .864Iona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .868Inveraray . . . . . . . . . . . . . .869Kilmartin Glen . . . . . . . . . . 870Kintyre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 871Islay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 873Jura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 876Arran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 877Brodick & Around . . . . . . . 878Lochranza . . . . . . . . . . . . . 879South Coast . . . . . . . . . . .880Lamlash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 881

INVERNESS & THE HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS . . . . . . . 884Inverness & the Great Glen . . . . . . . 885Inverness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 885Loch Ness . . . . . . . . . . . . . 892The Cairngorms . . . . . . 895Aviemore . . . . . . . . . . . . . .896Kingussie & Newtonmore . . . . . . . . . . .899Royal Deeside . . . . . . . . . .900Highland Perthshire . . . 902Dunkeld & Birnam . . . . . .902

Pitlochry . . . . . . . . . . . . . .903Blair Castle . . . . . . . . . . . .905Lochs Tummel & Rannoch . . . . . . . . . . . . .905Loch Tay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .905West Highlands . . . . . . . 906Glen Coe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .906Fort William . . . . . . . . . . . . 907Road to the Isles . . . . . . . 910Caithness . . . . . . . . . . . . 913Wick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 913John O’Groats . . . . . . . . . . 914Mey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 914Dunnet Head . . . . . . . . . . . 914Thurso & Scrabster . . . . . 915North & West Coast . . . 916Durness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 917Ullapool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .920Skye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 926Armadale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 928Broadford (An T-Ath Leathann) . . . . . . . . 929Cuillin Hills . . . . . . . . . . . . 929Portree (Port Righ) . . . . . 929Dunvegan (Dun Bheagain) . . . . . . . . 931Trotternish . . . . . . . . . . . . . 931Outer Hebrides . . . . . . . 932Lewis (Leodhais) . . . . . . . 933Harris (Na Hearadh) . . . . 936Barra (Barraigh) . . . . . . . . 941Orkney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 942Kirkwall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .944West & North Mainland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 947Stromness . . . . . . . . . . . . .949Hoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .950Northern Islands . . . . . . . 951Shetland . . . . . . . . . . . . 952Lerwick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 955Sumburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . .958The North Isles . . . . . . . . . 959

Great Britain Today . . . 962History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 965The British Table . . . . . 983Architecture in Britain . . . . . . . . . . . . 990The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 995The British Landscape . . . . . . . . . . 1006Sporting Britain . . . . . .1013

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .1018Transport . . . . . . . . . . . 1026Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . 1033Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1038Map Legend . . . . . . . . . 1054

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESThe River Thames Illustration . . . . . . . . . . . 74

British Museum Floor Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . 78

Rosslyn Chapel Illustration . . . . . . . . . . 784

Stirling Castle Illustration . . . . . . . . . . 830

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Itineraries

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Oxford

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NORTHERNIRELAND

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#•#÷Brecon BeaconsNational Park É

#÷SnowdoniaNational Park

#÷LakeDistrict #÷

YorkshireDales

#•ChatsworthHouse

#•Hadrian's Wall

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Best of Britain

This circular whistle-stop tour ticks off Britain’s greatest hits in an action-packed fortnight.

Start with at least three days exploring Britain’s greatest city, London, seeing the world-famous sights: Buckingham Palace, Tower Bridge, Trafalgar Sq, the British Mu-seum and more. From the capital, head west for the dreaming spires of England’s oldest university city, Oxford, before touring the lovely villages of the Cotswolds.

Detour south to see Stonehenge, the nation’s most celebrated stone circle, and its lesser-known counterpart Avebury, then head onwards to the Georgian city of Bath. From here, skip across the border through two Welsh national parks: the Brecon Bea-cons and Snowdonia, where you can climb Wales’ highest mountain. Head back into England and travel north to walk the fells of the Lake District, beloved by William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter.

From here, it’s easy to explore Roman Britain’s most ambitious engineering project, the 73-mile Hadrian’s Wall, before the drive north to Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh. On the long journey back south, drive through the rolling hills and valleys of the Yorkshire Dales, visit the handsome city of York and its medieval minster, marvel at the majesty of Chats-worth House, or wander around the colleges and punt along the Backs of Cambridge.

2 WEEKS

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This is the big one: covering all points of the compass and all three mainland nations, it’s the full-blown round-Britain adventure.

After a day or two in London, head southeast to Canterbury, then along the coast to hip and happening Brighton. For a change of pace, divert to the New Forest, then up to historic Winchester and Salisbury, with their awe-inspiring cathedrals. Next, reli-gion of a different kind: the ancient stone circles at Stonehenge and Avebury.

Go west to Bath, with its grand Georgian architecture, Roman remains and famous spas, and then over the border to Wales, via the energetic little cities of Bristol and Cardiff. Head west to fall in love with the scenery of the Pembrokeshire Coast, and backtrack through to the whaleback hills of the Brecon Beacons to reach the quirky book-mad town of Hay-on-Wye.

Then it’s back into England to visit Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon, and impressive castles at Warwick, Ludlow and Shrewsbury. Cross back into Wales via the stunning mountains of Snowdonia, then round the coast via the dramatic cas-tles of Caernarfon and Conwy.

Back in England once again, have a wander round the medieval walls of Chester en route to Liverpool, with its famous musical heritage and revitalised waterfront, or Manchester, for a taste of northern nightlife. Cross over the moors and hills of the Peak District, admire the marvellous York Minster in York, and finish your English adventure in Newcastle-upon-Tyne, with its galleries, museums and Antony Gorm-ley’s monumental Angel of the North sculpture.

Hop over Hadrian’s Wall en route to the historic abbey towns of Jedburgh and Mel-rose in Scotland. Stop off for a few days in Edinburgh, then head west via Stirling Castle to good-time Glasgow. Then trek to Fort William (and maybe up Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain), from where it’s easy to reach journey’s end on the beautiful Isle of Skye.

1 MONTH

Isle ofSkye

Avebury

Conwy

Melrose

Fort William

Salisbury

Caernarfon

York

Liverpool

Brighton

Warwick

CanterburyWinchester

GlasgowEDINBURGH

LONDONCARDIFF

New Forest

Stonehenge

Snowdonia

StirlingCastle

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Chester#•

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ENGLAND

Bath

É

Cotswolds

NETHERLANDS

NORTHERNIRELAND

IRELAND

BELGIUM

FRANCE

SCOTLAND

WALES

N O R T HS E A

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Take this ride through some of Britain’s less well-known and revitalised cities.

Kick off in Bristol, a city with fierce pride and a rich historical legacy, then cross over to Cardiff, once a provincial backwater but now the lively Welsh capital.

Next stop is Birmingham, oozing transformation, with a renovated water-side, energised museums and a space-age shopping centre. Onwards to Leeds, where run-down factories and warehouses have been turned into loft apartments, ritzy boutiques and stylish department stores.

Shopping not your thing? No problem. Head for Newcastle-upon-Tyne and twin city Gateshead; both have given up on heavy industries in favour of art and architecture, and are famous for partying.

Still want more? It’s got to be Glasgow, Scotland’s other great city, boasting fabu-lous galleries and welcoming pubs. Then it’s south to Liverpool, which has rein-vented itself as a cultural hot spot, with a famous musical heritage. Finish your tour in Manchester, a long-time stage for artistic endeavour, with dramatic architec-ture and a rather well-known football club.

3 WEEKS Urban Odyssey

This route is usually done by car, but it also makes a brilliant cycling tour (270 miles, including the 60 miles from Ulla-pool to Inverness train station, making both start and finish accessible by rail).

From Oban it’s a five-hour ferry cross-ing to Barra; plan to spend the night here (book ahead). On day two, after a visit to Kisimul Castle and a tour around the island, take the ferry to South Uist. Walk the wild beaches of the west coast, sample the local seafood and perhaps go fish-ing on the island’s trout lochs. Continue through Benbecula and North Uist, prime birdwatching country.

Overnight at Lochmaddy on North Uist (if you’re camping or hostelling, a night at Berneray is a must) before taking the ferry to Harris, whose west coast has some of the most spectacular beaches in Scotland. The road continues north from Tarbert (good hotels) through rugged hills to Lewis.

Don’t go directly to Stornoway, but loop west via the Callanish Standing Stones and Arnol Blackhouse museum. Spend your final night in Stornoway (eat at Dig-by Chick), then take the ferry to Ullapool for a scenic drive to Inverness.

10 DAYS

CairngormsNational Park

Avon

Spey

Dee

NorthEsk

Spey

Don

Spey

SouthEsk

Earn

DuncansbyHead

DunnetHead

Lammermuir

GrampianMountains

CAITHNESSFLOWCOUNTRY

M O R AYF I R T H

R AT T R AYB AY

D O R N O C HF I R T H

LU N A NB AY

S I N C L A I R ' SB AY

N O R T HS E A

F I R T H O FF O R T H

F I R T HO F TAY

M O N T R O S EB A S I N

Ullapool

Inverness

Oban

Stornoway

N O R T HS E A

Gateshead

Manchester

Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Glasgow

Leeds

Birmingham

Bristol

Liverpool

CARDIFF

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South Uist

North Uist

Berneray

Harris

Lewis

CallanishStanding

Stones

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Top: Callanish Standing Stones (p935)

Bottom: Beaumaris Castle (p740)

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If you like the outdoors, and prefer flocks of birds to crowds of people, try this back-water route along England’s eastern fringe.

Start in Colchester, then head out into the sleepy county of Suffolk, where quaint villages and market towns such as Sud-bury and Lavenham dot the landscape, while along the coast are wildlife reserves, shingly beaches, fishing ports such as Aldeburgh, and the delightfully retro seaside resort of Southwold.

Things get even quieter in Norfolk, es-pecially around the misty lakes and wind-mill-lined rivers of the Broads. For beach strolls or historic country pubs, head for the coastal villages near Wells-next-the-Sea. Across the border in Lincolnshire lies the eerie, pan-flat landscape of the Fens, now a haven for otters and birdlife.

Continue into the heather-clad North York Moors, where humpbacked hills roll all the way to the coast to drop dramatically into the North Sea, and spend some time in the atmospheric seaside town of Whitby.

Enjoy a blustery stroll on the wild coast of Northumberland near the landmark castles of Dunstanburgh and Bamburgh, then end at the holy island of Lindisfarne.

2 WEEKS Edge of England

This itinerary is a tour of Scotland’s finest and most famous sights.

Naturally it starts in Edinburgh, where highlights include the renowned castle, as well as the Royal Mile and the haunts of the Old Town. Hop over to Glasgow for a day or two as well, then head northeast to see Scot-land’s other great castle at Stirling. Next stop is Callander, a good base for exploring the hills and lochs of the Trossachs.

Continue north and the landscape be-comes ever more impressive, culminating in the grandeur of Glen Coe. Keen hill walkers will pause for a day at Fort Wil-liam to trek to the top of Ben Nevis (and another day to recover!) before taking the ‘Road to the Isles’ past glorious Glenfin-nan to the fishing harbour of Mallaig.

Take the ferry to the Isle of Skye, then head back to the mainland via the Skye Bridge to reach pretty Plockton and magnificent Glen Torridon. Travelling onwards, via Ullapool, takes you to the re-mote mountain landscape of Scotland’s far northwest, then continue to Highland capi-tal Inverness. Conclude with a memorable drive through the Cairngorms and a tour of the whisky distilleries of Speyside.

2 WEEKS

#

#

÷

÷

SCOTLAND

Skye

Glen CoeCallander

Lavenham

Plockton

Southwold

Wells-next-the-Sea

Glenfinnan

Aldeburgh

Mallaig

Ullapool

Sudbury

Fort William

Stirling

GlasgowEDINBURGH

Dunstanburgh Castle

Loch Lomond &the Trossachs

Bamburgh Castle

Whitby

É

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#•

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#•#•

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RBen Nevis

ENGLAND

#•Lindisfarne

NorthYork

Moors

TheBroads

The Fens

NORTHERNIRELAND

IRELAND

Colchester

Northumberland

#•

#• Norfolk

N O R T HS E A

I r i s hS e a

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Cairngorms

SpeysideÉ

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Highland Fling

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The southwest of England takes a bit of effort to reach but repays in full with a rich green landscape dotted with hills and moors, surrounded by glistening seas.

Start in Bristol, the capital of the West Country, then saunter south to reach Glas-tonbury – famous for its annual music festival and the best place to stock up on candles or crystals at any time of year.

West leads to the walking trails of heath-ery Exmoor, then it’s south to Dorset, where highlights include picturesque Shaft-esbury and the fossil-strewn Jurassic Coast.

Onwards into Devon, and there’s a choice of coasts, as well as Dartmoor, the highest and wildest hills in southern Britain.

Cross into Cornwall to explore the bio-domes of the Eden Project. Nearby, but in another era entirely, is the legendary birth-place of King Arthur, the castle at Tintagel. Depending on your tastes, you can hang-ten in surf-flavoured party-town Newquay or browse the galleries at artistic St Ives.

The natural finish to this wild west tour is Land’s End, where the British mainland comes to a final full stop – but it’s well worth visiting the amazing island abbey at St Michael’s Mount.

2 WEEKS Way Out West

The coast and countryside of Wales has long been a favourite with visitors, and this tour includes most of the hot spots. Con-tinue along England’s southwest coast for a longer jaunt along Britain’s Celtic fringe.

Start in Cardiff, with its fantastical cas-tle, gigantic rugby stadium, revitalised wa-terfront and stunning Millennium Centre. Head west via the beautiful Gower Pen-insula to reach the clear waters and sandy beaches of Pembrokeshire. Don’t miss the ancient cathedral at St Davids – Britain’s smallest city. Continue up the coast to Ab-erystwyth, then through ‘alternative’ Ma-chynlleth to reach Harlech and its ancient castle. Divert to the tranquil Isle of Anglesey and historic Beaumaris Castle, then strike through the mountains of Snowdonia to reach Conwy (for another stunning castle) and the seaside resort of Llandudno.

Southwards takes you through Llangol-len, with its jolly steam trains and vertigi-nous aqueduct, then along the England–Wales borderlands to book-mad Hay-on-Wye. Loop inland via Brecon Beacons to the Welsh foodie capital of Abergavenny, then saunter down the Wye Valley to finish at the frontier town of Chepstow – and yet another amazing castle.

1 WEEK

#

#

÷

Isle ofAnglesey

JurassicCoast

Gower Peninsula

Land'sEnd

Llangollen

Machynlleth

Harlech

Hay-on-WyeSt Davids

Shaftesbury

Chepstow

St Ives

Glastonbury

Abergavenny

Newquay

Llandudno

Aberystwyth

BristolCARDIFF

Tintagel

St Michael'sMount

Wye Valley

BreconBeacons

Exmoor

Dartmoor

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Beaumaris CastleConwy

Snowdonia

Dorset

Pembrokeshire

Devon

Cornwall

IRELAND

WALESENGLAND

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

10361036

WRITER THANKSOliver BerryAs always I’ve thoroughly enjoyed exploring my homeland for this update, and I’d like to extend a big thanks to everyone who’s helped me along the way (you know who you are). I’d particularly like to thank all my co-authors for their hard work and help, and Cliff Wilkinson for sage advice, feedback and gener-ally keeping the England ship on course. A special thanks also to Rosie Hillier for supporting me, putting up with long days and nights spent at the computer and providing emergency cups of tea when they were most needed.

Marc Di DucaHuge thanks to Tanya at home in the Czech Republic for holding the fort, to Emy and David in Sandwich, to Gemma and Dave in Amesbury and to all the many employees at the various tourist offices across Kent and Sussex who helped me along the way.

Belinda DixonResearching and writing for Lonely Planet is a real joint effort – so huge thanks to the locals who share their time, knowledge and recommendations and to the random strangers who offer countless kind-nesses. And thank you to Cliff for the gig, LP’s behind the scenes teams (so much work!), and fellow writers for humour, wisdom and travellers’ tales.

Damian HarperMany thanks to Ann Harper, Jasmin Tonge, Kevin and Maki Fallows, Rosemary Hadow, Lily Greensmith, Antonia Mavromatidou, Arabella Sneddon, Bill Moran, Jim Peake, my ever-helpful co-authors and a big debt of gratitude again to Daisy, Tim and Emma.

Catherine Le NevezCheers first and foremost to Julian, and to all of the locals, fellow travellers and tourism professionals throughout Northeast England, the Midlands and the Marches for insights, information and good times. Huge thanks too to Destination Editor Cliff Wilkinson and the Great Britain team, and everyone at LP. As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur, neveu and nièce.

Hugh McNaughtanCriss-crossing Wales in the golden summer of 2018 was a magical experience. For those who showered me with friendliness, generosity and inside tips along the way – thanks!; to Cliff and the LP team for editorial and technical guidance – thanks!; and to Tasmin, Maise and Willa for endless support and encouragement, thank you.

Lorna ParkesThanks to the many friendly folk of Yorkshire for their chats, advice and excellent beer-making. And to Rob, Austin and Lily for letting me drag them all over the Dales and east coast, come rain or shine (but mostly rain).

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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1037BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Andy SymingtonIt’s always a huge pleasure to enjoy the very generous hospitality of Jenny Neil and Brendan Bolland, and to work with Neil Wilson, Cliff Wilkin-son and the excellent LP team. Numerous other people have been very generous with time and information. I’d particularly like to thank Robin Mitchell, Maggie Maguire, Graeme Campbell, Jen Stewart and the staff at many tourist information offices, especially Judith and Janice at Bowmore, Sheona at John O’Groats, Susan at Callander and Neil at Kirkwall.

Greg WardThanks to the many people who helped me as I pounded the streets of Oxford and criss-crossed the Cotswolds, and thanks especially to Adrian, Michael and Donald Ward for their Oxford memo-ries and expertise. Thanks too to my editor Clifton Wilkinson for giving me this opportunity, and to my dear wife, Sam, for sharing so many adventures and late nights.

Neil WilsonThanks to the friendly and helpful tourist office staff all over the Highlands; to Steven Fallon, Keith Jeffrey, Fiona Garven, Derek McCrindle, Brendan Bolland, Jenny Neil, Tom and Christine Duffin, Steve Hall, Elaine Simpson, Peter Fallon and Duncan Pepper; and, as ever, to Carol Downie. Thanks also to James Smart and the editorial team at Lonely Planet.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Neist Point, Isle of Skye, Colin Threlfall/Alamy ©Illustrations: pp94–5, pp624–5, pp750–1, pp784–5 and pp830–1 by Javier Zarracina, pp74–5 by Javier Zarracina and Michael Weldon.

THIS BOOKThis 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Great Britain guide-book was curated by Oliver Berry, and researched and written by Oliver, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Damian Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Lorna Parkes, Andy Symington, Greg Ward and Neil Wilson. The previous edition was written by Oliver Berry, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Peter Dragicevich, Damian Harper,

Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Isabella Noble, Andy Symington and Neil Wilson. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editors James Smart, Clifton WilkinsonSenior Product Editor Genna PattersonProduct Editor Kathryn RowanSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Clara MonittoAssisting Editors Sarah Bai-ley, Andrew Bain, Judith Bam-

ber, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Katie Connolly, Lucy Cowie, Michelle Coxall, Jacque-line Danam, Andrea Dobbin, Kellie Langdon, Lou McGregor, Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin, Sarah StewartCartographer Rachel ImesonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Ian Grundy, John Harper, Elizabeth Jones, Laura Manago, Alison Ridgway, Michael Weldon, Amanda Williamson

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1038

IndexAabbeys, priories &

monasteries 28-9Abbey Gardens 384-5Arbroath Abbey 849Bath Abbey 247Battle Abbey 171Dryburgh Abbey 814Dunfermline Abbey &

Palace 844Forde Abbey 283Fountains Abbey 495Glastonbury Abbey 257-8Great Malvern Priory 426Hexham Abbey 624,

628, 624Holyrood Abbey 761, 764Hailes Abbey 217-18Iona Abbey 869Jedburgh Abbey 815Kelso Abbey 816Kirkstall Abbey 516Lacock Abbey 292Lindisfarne Priory 634Llanthony Priory 685, 7Melrose Abbey 814Newstead Abbey 442Rievaulx Abbey 499-500Shaftesbury Abbey 285Shrewsbury Abbey 430St Augustine’s Abbey 156St Davids Bishop’s Palace

672St Michael’s Mount 343St Non’s Bay 672Tintern Abbey 654Tynemouth Priory 617Valle Crucis Abbey 707Wenlock Priory 437Whitby Abbey 503-4Westminster Abbey 76-7

Aberaeron 701-2

Aberdaron 726-7Aberdeen 850-5, 852-3Aberdeenshire 850-5Abergavenny 654-6Aberlour 856Abersoch 726Aberystwyth 698-701, 699accessible travel 1018accommodation 1018-21,

see also individual locations

activities 42-7, 605, 44, 47, 604-5, see also individual activities

Adele 1002air travel 1026, 1028Aldeburgh 386-7Alderney 175Alnwick 629-36Ambleside 577-80amusement parks

Alton Towers 421Blackpool Pleasure Beach

561-2Blackpool Tower 561Dreamland 160Heights of Abraham 465Legoland Windsor

56, 56Angus 845-50animals, see wildlifeAnstruther 841-2Applecross 924-5aquariums

Blue Planet Aquarium 548

Blue Reef Aquarium 334Bristol Aquarium 238Deep, the 528Lakes Aquarium 573-4National Marine Aquarium

315National Sea Life Centre

403SEA LIFE Brighton 178Sea Life Sanctuary 497

Arbroath 849-50

archaeological sites, see also Roman sites, ruins

Avebury Stone Circle 293Banks Chambered Tomb

947Barnhouse Neolithic

Village 949Belas Knap Long Barrow

217Broch of Gurness 948Callanish Standing Stones

935, 39Dunadd Fort 870Jarlshof 958Maeshowe 948Maiden Castle 277Ness of Brodgar 948-9Old Sarum 287-8Old Scatness 958Ring of Brodgar 948Rollright Stones 209Skara Brae 948Standing Stones of

Stenness 949Stonehenge 11, 289-91,

290, 10-11Tomb of the Eagles 947

architecture 990-4area codes 1024Argyllshire 861-77Arisaig 912Armadale 928Arran 877-81, 878art galleries 29, see also

museumsAbbot Hall Art Gallery 596Aberdeen Art Gallery 851Arnolfini 238BALTIC – Centre for

Contemporary Art 611Barber Institute of Fine

Arts 403-4Beatrix Potter Gallery 583Berwick Barracks 635Birmingham Museum &

Art Gallery 403Brighton Museum & Art

Gallery 177

Broughton House 820Gallery of Modern Art

793-4Hepworth Wakefield 519Humber St Gallery 529Hunterian Art Gallery 799Kelvingrove Art Gallery &

Museum 797Leach Pottery 338-9Leeds Art Gallery 516Manchester Art Gallery

537, 540Manx Museum & National

Art Gallery 566Millennium Gallery 526MOMA Machynlleth 696National Gallery 80National Portrait Gallery

87Oriel y Parc 672Oriel Ynys Môn 739Penlee House Gallery &

Museum 343Potteries Museum & Art

Gallery 422Royal Academy of Arts 87Royal Cambrian Academy

734Scottish National Gallery

758Scottish National Gallery

of Modern Art 765Scottish National Portrait

Gallery 757-8Tate Britain 86Tate Liverpool 555Tate Modern 26, 75,

96, 75Tate St Ives 26, 337-8Turner Contemporary 160Walker Art Gallery 554Wallace Collection 87Whitechapel Gallery

107-8Whitworth Art Gallery 541Yorkshire Sculpture

Park 519arts 995-1005

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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IND

EX A-C

1039arts centres

Aberystwyth 701Blaenau Ffestiniog 715-16Cardiff 646Custard Factory 404Dundee Contemporary

Arts 846Edinburgh Sculpture

Workshop 765Ruthin 706Southbank Centre 97Talla na Mara 938

Arundel 182-3Ashbourne 464Ashes, the 1016Assynt 919-20ATMs 1022Austen, Jane 247-8Avebury 293-6, 294Aviemore 896-8

Bba’, the 946Bakewell 476-8Bala 723Ballater 900Balmoral Castle 901Bamburgh 633Bangor 729-32Banksy 166-7, 240Banksy Brexit Mural 166-7Bardsey Island 727Barmouth 713-14Barnard Castle 621-36Barra 941bars 989Bath 12, 59, 245-54, 246, 12

accommodation 250activities 249drinking & nightlife 253entertainment 253festivals & events 249food 252-3history 245shopping 254sights 245-9tourist information 254tours 249travel to/from 254travel within 254walking 251, 251

bathrooms 1024-5Battle 171Battle of Culloden 977beaches 1007

Bournemouth Beach 272Calgary Beach 867Chesil Beach 281-5

Dinas Dinlle 728Kynance Cove 346Llandudno 737Luskentyre 937Perranporth Beach 336Porth Oer 726Sandbanks 274Whitesands Bay 672

Beatles, the 112, 555, 557, 1000

Beaumaris 739-41Beaumaris Castle 740, 39Beddgelert 722-3Bedfordshire 223-6Bedruthan Steps 333beer 162, 987Ben Nevis 28, 909, 28Berneray 939-40Berwick-upon-Tweed 635-6Betws-y-Coed 716-18Beverley 531-2Bibury 204-5bicycle travel, see cyclingBig Ben 80-1, 992Birmingham 59, 402-10,

404-5accommodation 406-7drinking & nightlife

408-9entertainment 409festivals & events 406food 407-8shopping 409sights 402-5tourist information 409tours 406travel to/from 409-10travel within 410

Birnam 902-3Bishop’s Castle 440Black Mountain (Y Mynydd

Du) 689-90Black Mountains (Y Mynyd-

doed Duon) 684-5Blackpool 561-2Blaenau Ffestiniog 715-16Blaenavon 656-7Blair Castle 905Blair, Tony 981Blakeney 394-5Blenheim Palace 200-1blogs 964Boat of Garten 899boating 46-7

Bath 249Blakeney 394Brecon 686-7Bristol 239-40Cambridge 370

Durham 619East Anglia 361Gairloch 922Inverness 885Keswick 590Lerwick 955Loch Ness 895London 115, 118, 119Mull 864Oban 862Oxford 193Skipton 508Uist 940Ullapool 920

Bodleian Library 187-8Bodmin Moor 354-5Bodnant Estate 734Bond, James 999books 962Borders Region 812-17Borrowdale 592-3Boscastle 329-30Boston 453-4Bournemouth 271-3Bowie, David 1000Bowmore 874-5Bradford 521-2Braemar 900-2Braemar Gathering 35Braunton 325Bray 230Brecon 686-9Brecon Beacons National

Park 61, 681-90, 682, 687

accommodation 679climate 679food 679highlights 680, 680travel seasons 679

breweriesAdnams 387All Saints Brewery 455Fat Pig 305Hawkshead Brewery 576Howling Hops 134Isle of Arran Brewery 878Jennings Brewery 588Ludlow Brewing

Company 441National Brewery Centre

420Southwold 387St Ives Brewery 340Thornbridge Brewery 477

Brexit 962-3bridges

Bridge of Sighs (Oxford) 189

Clifton Suspension Bridge 239

Humber Bridge 529Iron Bridge 433Millennium Bridge 96Pulteney Bridge 248Tower Bridge 92-3

Bridgnorth 438Brighton 175-82, 176Brighton Pier 177Bristol 235-45, 236-7

accommodation 240-1activities 239-40drinking & nightlife 243entertainment 243-4festivals & events 240food 241-3history 235shopping 244sights 235-9tourist information 244travel to/from 244travel within 244-5

British landscape 731British Museum 21, 77-80,

78-9, 21, 78, 79Brixham 309Broadford 929Broadstairs 161-2Broadway 211-13Brockenhurst 265Brodick 878-9Brontë sisters 524Brunel’s SS Great Britain

235-7Bryher 357-8Buckingham Palace 81, 83Buckinghamshire 223-6Buckler’s Hard 265Bude 328-9budget 23Builth Wells 692-3Burford 205-6Burnham Deepdale 396-7Burns, Robert 818, 995Bury St Edmunds 384-6bus travel 1027, 1028-9,

1030business hours 1023Butt of Lewis 936Buttermere 593-5Buxton 469-72, 470

CCader Idris 711Caerleon 654Caernarfon 727-9Caerphilly Castle 657

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Cairngorm Mountain 898Cairngorms National Park

895-902, 896Caithness 913-16Caldey Island 668-9Callander 858-60Callanish 935Callanish Standing Stones

935, 39Calton Hill 757Cambrian Mountains 691Cambridge 17, 59, 364-76,

366, 2, 17accommodation 372-3activities 370drinking & nightlife 375entertainment 375-6festivals & events 372food 373-5history 364sights 364-70tourist information 376tours 370-2travel to/from 376travel within 376walking 371, 371

Cambridgeshire 361-78Campbeltown 872-3canoeing, see kayaking &

canoeingCanterbury 58, 154-8, 155Canterbury Cathedral 17,

28, 154-6, 17, 28Canterbury Tales, The 156Cape Wrath 918car travel 1029-30Cardiff 18, 61, 641-52, 642,

644, 647accommodation 639,

648-9climate 639drinking & nightlife 650entertainment 651festivals & events 647-8food 639, 649-50highlights 640, 640history 641-2itineraries 641shopping 651sights 642-7tourist information 652travel seasons 639travel to/from 652travel within 652

Cardiff Castle 643-5

Cardigan 702-3Carlisle 600-2Carmarthenshire 665-6Carreg Cennen 689Cartmel 599Castell Henllys 678Castle Howard 16, 492, 16castles & palaces 27, 991

Alnwick Castle 629-30Arundel Castle 182Audley End House &

Gardens 380Balmoral Castle 901Bamburgh Castle 633Barnard Castle 621Beaumaris Castle

740, 39Berkeley Castle 217Bishops’ Palace 451Blair Castle 905Blenheim Palace 200-1Braemar Castle 901Brodick Castle 878Buckingham Palace

81, 83Caerlaverock Castle 819Caernarfon Castle 727-8Caerphilly Castle 657Cardiff Castle 643-5Cardigan Castle 702Carlisle Castle 600Carreg Cennen 689Castell Coch 645-6Castell Dinas Brân 708Castle Drogo 323Castle Howard 16,

492, 16Castle Kennedy Gardens

822Castle of Mey 914Castle Rushen 567Cawdor Castle 892Chepstow Castle 653Chillingham Castle 628Colchester Castle 378Conwy Castle 733-4,

637Corfe Castle 275Criccieth Castle 725Culzean Castle 817Doune Castle 834Dover Castle 165-6Duart Castle 869Dunnottar Castle 851Dunollie Castle 861Dunrobin Castle 912Dunstanburgh Castle

632Dunster Castle 298

Dunvegan Castle 931, 882

Durham Castle 618-19Earl’s Palace 944Edinburgh Castle 748-9,

750, 750Eilean Donan Castle 925Falkland Palace 844Fishbourne 183Glamis Castle 848Hampton Court Palace

115, 116-7, 116-7, 116, 117

Harlech Castle 715Helmsley Castle 500Hermitage Castle 814Inveraray Castle 869-70Inverness Castle 885Kenilworth Castle 412Kensington Palace 103Kew Palace 114Kisimul Castle 941Lauriston Castle 766Leicester Castle 456Leeds Castle 159Lews Castle 934Lincoln Castle 451Lochleven Castle 841Lowther Estate 602Ludlow Castle 441MacLellan’s Castle 820Montgomery Castle

694-5Muncaster Castle

599-600Newark Castle 447Newcastle Castle 610Noltland Castle 951Norwich Castle 389-90Nottingham Castle 443Palace of Holyroodhouse

751, 761, 751Pembroke Castle 670Pendennis Castle 347Peveril Castle 472Powis Castle 695Raby Castle 621Raglan Castle 655Royal Pavilion 177Scarborough Castle

495-6Scone Palace 847Sherborne New Castle

284Sherborne Old Castle

284Shrewsbury Castle 430Sizergh Castle 597Skipton Castle 508St Andrews Castle 836

Stirling Castle 21, 827, 830-3, 21, 830

Sudeley Castle 217Tintagel Castle 330Tower of London 14,

91-2, 94-5, 94-5, 14, 94, 95

Tretower Court & Castle 685-6

Urquhart Castle 892, 894

Warwick Castle 413White Castle 652, 2Windsor Castle 227-8Wolvesey Castle 261-2Wray Castle 572

Castleton 472-3cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Castleton 472-3City of Caves 443Clearwell Caves 222Davaar Cave 872Poole’s Cavern 469Shell Grotto 160Smoo Cave 917Wookey Hole 255

cavingBetws-y-Coed 717Peak District National

Park 468Cawdor Castle 892cell phones 22cemeteries

Greyfriars Kirkyard 755Highgate Cemetery

110-11Wolvercote Cemetery

189Central Scotland 62,

826-81accommodation 826climate 826food 826highlights 828, 828-9travel seasons 826

Centre for Alternative Technology (CAT) 697

Ceredigion 698-703Cerne Giant 279Chagford 323-4Changing of the Guard

Buckingham Palace 83Windsor Castle 228

Charles Dickens Museum 89, 215

Chatham Historic Dockyard 160

Chaucer, Geoffrey 156, 995

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-D Cheddar Gorge 256Chelsea Flower Show

32, 33Cheltenham 218-21, 219Chepstow 653Chesil Beach 281-5Chester 548-51, 550Chesterfield 466Chichester 183-4children, travel with 54-7Chipping Campden 210-11Chipping Norton 209-10Christ Church 188-9Christie, Agatha 307Christ’s College 368Church Stretton 438-40churches & cathedrals

28-9Bangor Cathedral 729Beverley Minster 531Brecon Cathedral 686Canterbury Cathedral 17,

154-6, 17, 28Carlisle Cathedral 600Chester Cathedral 548Chichester Cathedral

183Christ Church Cathedral

189Collegiate Church of St

Mary 413Coventry Cathedral 411Derby Cathedral 462Dunkeld Cathedral 902Durham Cathedral 618Elgin Cathedral 855Ely Cathedral 377Exeter Cathedral 303Glasgow Cathedral

796-7, 743Gloucester Cathedral

222Haworth Parish Church

524Hereford Cathedral 427Holy Trinity Church 416King’s College Chapel

364-5Lancaster Castle 562Leicester Cathedral 456Lichfield Cathedral 421Lincoln Cathedral

449-51Liverpool Cathedral

553-4Llandaff Cathedral 647Mackintosh Queen’s

Cross 793Norwich Cathedral

388-9

Painswick Rococo Garden 216

Penmon Priory 740Rosslyn Chapel 783-5,

784-5, 784, 882Round Church 370Salisbury Cathedral 286Sherborne Abbey 284Southwark Cathedral 97Southwell Minster 448St Albans Cathedral 224St Andrews Cathedral

836St David’s Cathedral 672St Edmundsbury Cathe-

dral 385St George’s Chapel 228St Giles Cathedral 751,

752-4, 751St Hywyn’s Church 726St Issui’s Church 685St John the Baptist

Church (Tideswell) 472

St John the Baptist’s Church (Cirencester) 203

St Magnus Cathedral 944

St Mary’s Priory Church 655

St Nicholas’ Church 694St Paul’s Cathedral

89-91University Church of St

Mary the Virgin 191-2Wells Cathedral 255Westminster Abbey 76-7Winchester Cathedral

260-1Worcester Cathedral 424York Minster 485

Churchill, Winston 87, 174, 200, 980

cider 427, 987cinema 998-1000Cinque Ports 170

Dover 165-7Hastings 171-3Sandwich 164-5

Cirencester 202-4Claridge’s Foyer & Reading

Room 125Cley-next-the-Sea 394climate 22, 1020-1, see also

individual locationsClovelly 326coal mining 523, 658, 978coastal attractions 27coasteering 46, 674coasts 1010

Cockermouth 588-9Colchester 378-9Coniston 584-6Conkers 461Constable, John 379, 1003Conwy 732-6, 733Conwy Castle 733-4, 637Coquet Island 634Corbridge 623-8Cornwall 16, 327-55,

337, 16travel to/from 327travel within 327-8

costs 23Cotswolds 13, 59, 201-18,

202-3, 13accommodation 185activities 201-3climate 185driving tours 206-7, 207food 185highlights 186, 186travel seasons 185

Coventry 410-12Cowes 268-9Crail 840-1Craster 630, 632credit cards 1022-3cricket 141, 1015-16Crickhowell 685-6Cromer 391-4Croyde 325Cuillin Hills 929Culloden Battlefield 891-2Culross 844-5culture 963Cumbria 60, 600-3

accommodation 568climate 568food 568highlights 570, 570-1travel seasons 568

Cumbrian Coast 598-600currency 22customs regulations 1021cycling 45-6, 605, 1028

Aviemore 897Blaenau Ffestiniog 716Coed y Brenin Forest

Park 714Cotswolds 201Cumbria 569Dartmoor National

Park 318Dumfries 819East Anglia 361Exmoor National Park

295Galloway Forest Park 821

Glasgow 800Isle of Wight 266Lake District 569Loch Leven 841Loch Morlich 899New Forest 264Northeast England 607Peak District National

Park 468Peebles 812Southeast England 154Southwest England 234Trossachs 859Yorkshire 483Yorkshire Dales National

Park 513

Ddangers, see safetyDartmoor National Park

318-24, 319Dartmouth 309-11Dartmouth Steam Railway

310Darwin, Charles 163Dedham Vale 379-80Derby 461-4Derbyshire 461-6Derwent Reservoirs 473-4Devon 301-27Dickens, Charles 89, 149-

50, 996disabilities, travellers with

1018distilleries

Aberlour 855Ardbeg 874Bowmore Distillery

874-5Bruichladdich 876Cotswolds Distillery

209-10Eden Mill Distillery 836Edradour Distillery 903Glenfarclas 855Glenfiddich 855Highland Park Distillery

944Isle of Harris Distillery

936-7Isle of Jura Distillery 877Lakes Distillery 589Kilchoman 876Kingsbarns Distillery

836Kirkjuvagr Orkney Gin

944Lagavulin 874Lakes Distillery 589Laphroaig 874

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distilleries continuedLindores Abbey Distillery

836Macallan 855, 988Oban Distillery 861Old Pulteney 913Penderyn Distillery 689Plymouth Gin Distillery

315Speyside Cooperage

855Springbank 872

Dolgellau 710-13dolphins 703Dorchester 277-9Dorset 271-85Douglas 565-6Dover 165-7, 166drinks 48-53, 987-9

beer 53, 767, 987, 989cider 53, 987, 989coffee 987spirits 53tea 987whisky 21, 53, 755, 779,

855, 989, 50wine 989

driving, see car traveldriving tours

Cotswolds 206-7, 207Dartmoor National

Park 322Dover to Rye 168-9, 169Fife Coast 843, 843Lake District 594, 594Loch Ness 893, 893North Coast 500 921Northumberland Coast

631Peak District National

Park 475, 475Drumnadrochit 892, 894-5Dufftown 856Dulverton 296-7Dumfries 817-19Dumfries & Galloway

817-23Dundee 845-9Dunfermline 844Dunkeld 902-3Dunnet Head 914-15Dunrobin Castle 912Dunster 298Dunvegan 931Durdle Door 275, 13

Durham 618-36, 619Durness 917-18DVD 1024

EEast Anglia 59, 360-98

accommodation 360activities 361climate 360food 360highlights 362, 362-3history 361tourist information 361travel seasons 360travel to/from 361

East Neuk 840-2East Riding of Yorkshire

528-32East Sussex 167-82Eastbourne 173Edale 474Eden Project 348Edinburgh 11, 61, 745-88,

752-3, 762-3, 11accommodation 745,

768-70activities 766climate 745drinking & nightlife

777-81entertainment 781-2festivals & events 767-8food 745, 771-2, 774-7highlights 746, 746history 747-8itineraries 747shopping 782-3, 786sights 748-66tourist information 786tours 766-7travel seasons 745travel to/from 787travel within 787-8walking 772, 773

Edinburgh Castle 748-9, 750, 750

Edinburgh Festival Fringe 34, 767-8, 33

Edinburgh International Festival 34, 768

Edward I of England 971, 972

Eilean Donan Castle 925, 19

Elan Valley 694electricity 1021Elgin 855-6Elizabeth I 974-5Elizabeth II 980

Elterwater 586-7Ely 376-8Embleton Bay 632-3Emin, Tracey 1004Endeavour 26England 65-636

highlights 66-7, 66-7England Coast Path 26Ennerdale 597environmental issues

1011-12Essex 378-82Eton 226-30, 227Eton College 229events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 23Exeter 301-7, 302Exmoor National Park 295-

301, 296Eyam 474, 476

FFA Cup 1014Falmouth 347-50farmland 1009Farne Islands 635ferry travel 1027, 1028festivals & events 29-30,

31-5Abergavenny Food

Festival 35, 655Amble Puffin Festival

634Boat Race 119Braemar Gathering

35, 901Brecon Fringe Festival

35, 688Celtic Connections 800Cheese-Rolling 212Chelsea Flower Show 32,

119, 33Cotswold Olimpicks 212Cowes Week 33, 268Edinburgh Festival Fringe

34, 767-8, 33Edinburgh International

Festival 34, 768Edinburgh Military Tattoo

768Edinburgh’s Hogmanay

767Festival No 6 725Glastonbury Festival

of Contemporary Performing Arts 32, 258, 30

Grand National 556Guy Fawkes Night 35

Hay Festival 681Henley Royal Regatta

230International Musical

Eisteddfod 33, 709Jorvik Viking Festival

31, 488Llanwrtyd 692London Marathon

32, 119Manchester Pride

Festival 542National Eisteddfod of

Wales 34Notting Hill Carnival 35,

119-20, 34Open House London 96Reading Festival 229Robin Hood Festival

447Royal Ascot 226Royal Welsh Show 692Shetland Nature Festival

955Six Nations 31, 647Spirit of Speyside 32,

855TRNSMT 33, 800Trooping the Colour

32, 119University Boat Race 31Up Helly Aa 954Upfest 240Wimbledon Cham-

pionships 32, 142, 1016, 34

Fforest Fawr 689-90Fife 835-45

driving tour 843, 843films 962Fishguard 676-7food 48-53, 825, 983-6

afternoon tea 52black pudding 49breakfast 52, 983-4cheese 52, 824Cornish pasty 825, 984cream tea 825, 824dessert 986, 986dinner 52, 985-6fish and chips 49, 985haggis 49, 824lunch 52, 984pudding 986roast 51, 51, 824-5Scotch egg 49, 51tripe 49

football 546, 1013-14Forest of Dean 221-3Fort Augustus 895

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EX F-H 1043

Fort George 892Fort William 907-9Fortnum & Mason 142-3fossils 282Foula 959Fowey 351-3

GGainsborough, Thomas

388Gairloch 922-3Galloway Forest Park 821-2gardens, see parks &

gardensGarenin 936gay travellers 132, 181,

1022Glasgow 62, 792-812,

794-5, 798accommodation 789,

800-2activities 800climate 789drinking & nightlife

806-8entertainment 808-9festivals & events 800food 789, 802-6highlights 790-1, 790-1history 792shopping 809-10sights 792-800tourist information 810travel seasons 789travel to/from 810-11travel within 811-12walking 805, 805

Glasgow Cathedral 796-7, 743

Glastonbury 257-60, 258Glastonbury Festival of

Contemporary Perform-ing Arts 32, 258, 30

Glastonbury Tor 257Glen Affric 891Glen Coe 20, 906-7, 20,

882Glen Nevis 909-10Glenfinnan 910-12Glenfinnan viaduct 911Gloucester Cathedral 222Gloucestershire 218-223Goathland 504golf 1014-15

British Golf Museum 837St Andrews Old Course

837Gower Peninsula 662-5Grantchester 377

Grasmere 580-2Grassington 509-10Great Glen 885-95Great Langdale 586-7Great Malvern 425-6Great Orme 736great outdoors 28, 42-7Grizedale Forest 583grottos, see cavesGuernsey 175Guy Fawkes Night 35

HHadrian’s Wall 15, 622-36,

623, 15, 624, 625Haltwhistle 627-36Hamleys 143Hammer Film Productions

999Hampshire 260-6Hampton Court Palace 115,

116-7, 116-7, 116, 117Hardy, Thomas 278, 996Harlech 714-15Harris 936-9Harrogate 492-5Harry Potter 997, 1000Hartlepool 632Hastings 171-3Hawes 510-11Hawkshead 582-4Haworth 524-5Hay-on-Wye 681-4health 1021-2Hebden Bridge 522-4Helmsley 499-502Henly-on-Thames 230Henry VIII 974Hereford 427-8Herefordshire 426-30heritage organisations

1025heritage railways

Bodmin & Wenford Railway 355

Cliff Railway 300Ffestiniog Railway 724Isle of Wight Steam

Railway 269Jacobite Steam Train

907Pontypool & Blaenavon

Railway 656-7Snowdon Mountain

Railway 720Strathspey Steam

Railway 896-7Talyllyn Railway 722Welsh Highland Railway

724

Welshpool & Llanfair Light Railway 695-6

Herm 175Hertfordshire 223-6Highgrove 213Highland Perthshire 902-6,

882historic buildings, see

also stately homes & manors

30 St Mary Axe 93, 96Abbey Road Studios 112Abbotsford 814Anne Hathaway’s

Cottage 417Apsley House 103Brantwood 584Charlecote Park 419City Chambers 792-3Clouds Hill 273Culross Palace 845Dinefwr 666Dove Cottage & the

Wordsworth Museum 580

Down House 163Erasmus Darwin House

421-2Flatford 380Georgian Theatre Royal

513Glasgow School of

Art 792Greenway 309-10Hardy’s Cottage 278Hill House 857Hill Top 582House for an Art Lover

793Houses of Parliament

80-1, 992Kelmscott Manor 201London Dungeon 97Mackintosh at the Willow

794-6Mackintosh House 799Mary Arden’s Farm

416-17Mary, Queen of Scots’

Visitor Centre 815Max Gate 278Nantclwyd y Dre 706No 10 Downing Street 87Old Royal Naval College

114Old Town Jail 833Real Mary King’s Close

749, 752Roman Baths 26, 245-7Royal Albert Hall 103,

106, 139

Royal Crescent 248Royal Observatory 113Ruthin Gaol 706Rydal Mount 577Sandringham 395Scottish Parliament

Building 751, 759-61, 751, 993

Shakespeare’s Birthplace 415-16, 17, 215

Shakespeare’s Globe 75, 96, 138-9, 75

Shakespeare’s New Place 415

Shakespeare’s School Room 417

Shard, the 99Shugborough 423Somerset House 74,

87, 74Thomas Gainsborough’s

House 388Winchester College 261Woolsthorpe Manor 454Wordsworth House 588

history 965-82Act of Union 976-7Anglo-Irish War 979Anglo-Saxons 966-7Battle of Culloden 977Battle of Hastings 969Brexit 982Celts, the 965-6, 967Civil War of 1642-45

975-6crusades 970-1Culloden Battlefield

891-2Elizabethan age 974-5Great Depression 979House of Lancaster 973House of York 973Hundred Years’ War 973Industrial Age 978Jacobite rebellions 977last invasion 676Magna Carta 971Norman invasion 969-70Romans 966Scotland 967-8, 969,

970, 971, 972, 975Thatcher years 981Vikings 968Wales 967, 969, 971, 975Wars of the Roses 973WWI 979WWII 979-80

hitching 1030Hogarth, William 1002holidays 1023

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Holkham 396Holy Island 634-5Holyhead 741-2Honister Pass 593horse racing 1016horse riding 47, 605

Dartmoor National Park 319

Exmoor National Park 295-6

New Forest 264Houses of Parliament

80-1, 992Hove 175-82, 176Hoy 950-60Hull 528-31Hutton-le-Hole 500Hyde Park 103, 100-1

IIlfracombe 325-7industrial heritage 29insurance 1022internet access 1022internet resources 23Inveraray 869-70Inverness 62, 885-91, 889

accommodation 884climate 884food 884highlights 886, 886-7travel seasons 884

Iona 868-9Ironbridge Gorge 433-7,

434islands

Bardsey Island 727Brownsea Island 273Caldey Island 668Channel Islands 175Coquet Island 634Farne Islands 635Holy Island 881St Catherine’s Island 669

Islay 873-6, 873Isle of Anglesey 739-42Isle of Man 565-7Isle of Portland 280-1Isle of Skye 12, 926-32,

927, 12Isle of Thanet 161Isle of Wight 266-71, 267Isles of Scilly 355-9itineraries 36-41

JJacobite Steam Train 907James I of England 975Jedburgh 815-16John, Augustus 1003John, Gwen 1003John O’Groats 914Jorvik Viking Centre 486-7Jura 876-7Jurassic Coast 276

Kkayaking & canoeing 46

Bath 249East Anglia 361Exeter 304Falmouth 347-8Fishguard 676Forest of Dean 223Fowey 352Ironbridge Gorge 435-6Isle of Skye 927-8Loch Morlich 899Lulworth Cove 276Norfolk Broads 361, 392Oban 862Plockton 925Porthgain 674Totnes 312

Kelso 816-17Kendal 596-8Kenilworth 412-13Kent 154-67Keswick 589-91Kew Gardens 114-15Kielder Observatory 628Killin 860-1Kilmartin Glen 870-1King’s Cave 880King’s College Chapel 364-5King’s Lynn 397-8Kingussie 899-900Kintyre 871-3Kirkcudbright 819-21Kirkwall 944-7, 945Knoydart Peninsula 911Kylesku 918-19

LLacock 292-3Lake District 14, 60, 572-

98, 730, 731, 573, 14, 65, 604

accommodation 568climate 568food 568highlights 570, 570-1travel seasons 568

Lamlash 881Lancashire 561-5Lancaster 562-4Land’s End 342landscape 1006-12languages 22, 1033-5Lavenham 384Lawrence, DH 996Ledbury 428-9Leeds 514-21, 515Leeds Castle 159legal matters 1022Legoland Windsor 56, 56Leicester 455-60, 457Leicestershire 455-61Lerwick 955-8, 956lesbian travellers 132, 181,

1022Lewes 174-5Lewis 933-6LGBT+ travellers 132, 181,

1022libraries

Bodleian Library 187-8British Library 110Chetham’s Library &

School of Music 540Library of Birmingham

402National Library of Wales

698-9Radcliffe Camera 189,

214Lichfield 421-3lidos 108, 235Lincoln 449-53, 450Lincolnshire 449-55literature 995-8, see also

booksLiverpool 20, 60, 551-61,

552, 20accommodation 557drinking & nightlife

559-60entertainment 560festivals & events 556-7food 557-9history 553itineraries 554sights 553-6tourist information 560tours 556travel to/from 560travel within 560-1

Lizard Peninsula 346Llanarthne 665Llanberis 718-20, 730-1Llandeilo 665-6Llandudno 736-9, 737

Llangennith 664-5Llangollen 707-10, 708Llanthony Priory 685, 7Llanwrtyd Wells 691-2Llŷn Peninsula 723-7Loch Achray 860Loch Glencoul 918-19Loch Katrine 860Loch Lomond 856-8Loch Maree 923Loch Morlich 898-9Loch Ness 892-5

driving tour 893, 893Loch Ness monster 894Loch Rannoch 905Loch Tay 905-6Loch Tummel 905Lochinver 919-20Lochranza 879-80London 58, 68-150, 72-3,

14, 25accommodation 68,

120-3City 72, 89-96, 120-1,

126, 133, 90-1Clerkenwell 73, 107, 122,

127, 135-6climate 68drinking & nightlife

131-8East London 73, 107-9,

122, 128, 134-5entertainment 138-42festivals & events 119-20food 68, 123-31free attractions 118Greenwich 73, 112-14,

129-30, 137-8Hampton Court 73, 114-

15, 131, 138highlights 70-1, 70-1history 69itineraries 76Kensington 72, 99-107,

121, 126-7, 134, 100-1, 106

Kew 73, 114-15, 131, 138markets 145medical services 146North London 73, 109-12,

122, 128-9, 137, 110-11, 130

Richmond 73, 114-15, 131, 138

safety 146shopping 142-50Shoreditch 73, 107, 122,

127, 135-6, 136sights 76-115Soho 81

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South Bank 72, 96-9, 121,

126, 133-4, 98South London 73, 112-14,

129-30, 137-8Spitalfields 73, 107, 122,

127, 135-6, 136sports 141theatre 138-9tourist information 146tours 115, 118-19travel seasons 68travel to/from 146-7travel within 147-50walking 88, 88West End 72, 76-89,

120, 123-6, 131-3, 82, 84-5, 124

West London 73, 114, 122-3, 130-1, 138

London Eye 74, 96-7, 74Long Melford 382-4Longleat 291-2Looe 353-4Lower Wye Valley 653-4Ludlow 440-3Lulworth Cove 275-7Lydford 324Lyme Regis 282-4Lymington 265-6Lyndhurst 265Lynmouth 299-301Lynton 299-301

MMachynlleth 696-8Mackintosh, Charles Ren-

nie 793, 857, 1003Magdalen College (Oxford)

193, 15Magdalene College

(Cambridge) 368Magna Carta 286, 971Mainland 947-9Malham 511-13Malham Cove 511Mallaig 912-13Malton 501Manchester 60, 536-48,

538-9accommodation 542-3activities 541drinking & nightlife

545-6entertainment 546-7festivals & events 541-2food 543-5history 536-7itineraries 536shopping 547

sights 537-41tourist information 547tours 541travel to/from 547travel within 547-8

Margate 160-1markets

Borough Market 145Camden Market 145Cardiff 651Columbia Road Flower

Market 108Edinburgh 786Glasgow 809Lancaster 563London 145Newcastle-upon-Tyne

616Plymouth Fish Market

315Portobello Road Market

114Sunday UpMarket 145Swansea 661

Mary, Queen of Scots 975Masham 512Matlock Bath 464-6McEwan, Ian 997measures 1024Melrose 813-15Mevagissey 353Mey 914Michael, George 1001midges 915Midlands, the 59, 399-478

accommodation 399activities 402climate 399food 399highlights 400, 400-1travel seasons 399travel to/from 402

Mid-Wales 61, 679-703accommodation 679climate 679food 679highlights 680, 680travel seasons 679

Millais, Sir John Everett 1003

minesBig Pit National Coal

Museum 656Dolaucothi Gold Mines

666Great Orme Bronze Age

Mines 736Llechwedd Slate Caverns

716

Sygun Copper Mine 722Welsh Mining Experience

658Minster Lovell 210mobile phones 22monasteries, see abbeys,

priories & monasteriesmoney 22, 1022-3Monmouthshire 652-6Montgomery 694-5Monument 93moors 1009-10Morar 912Moray 855-6Moretonhampstead 323-4Moreton-in-Marsh 213-16Morris, William 1003motorcycle travel 1029-30mountain biking 45-6, see

also cyclingmountains 1009-10

Ben Lomond 857Ben Nevis 28, 909, 28Cader Idris 711Cairngorm Mountain

898Cambrian Mountains

691Crug Hywel 686Cuillin Hills 929Pen-y-Fan 690Preseli Hills 677Snowdon 720-2Snowdonia 731Ysgyryd Fawr 685

Mousehole 342-3Much Wenlock 437Mull 864-8, 865Mull of Kintyre 871Mumbles, the 661-2museums

Aberdeen Maritime Museum 850-1

American Museum in Britain 249

Andrew Carnegie Birth-place Museum 844

Armitt Museum 578Arnol Blackhouse 935Ashmolean Museum

26, 192Babbacombe Model

Village 308Bannockburn Heritage

Centre 833Battle of Bosworth 458Beamish Open-Air

Museum 620Beatles Story 555Berwick Barracks 635

Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery 403

Blaenavon World Herit-age Centre 656

Bletchley Park 225Blists Hill Victorian

Town 435Bowes Museum 621Brighton Museum & Art

Gallery 177British Golf Museum

837British Museum 21, 77-

80, 78-9, 21, 78, 79Burns House 818Burrell Collection 801Cadbury World 404-5Captain Cook Memorial

Museum 504Charles Dickens Museum

89, 215Churchill War Rooms 87Cloverlands Model Car

Museum 694Coalport China Museum

435Corinium Museum 203Cosford RAF Museum

432Court Barn Museum 211Coventry Transport

Museum 411Cregneash Village Folk

Museum 567Cromford Mill 465Cutty Sark 112Dennis Severs’ House

107Derwent Pencil Museum

590Design Museum 114Dickens House Museum

161-2Dig 487Dinosaurland 282-3Discovery Museum 610Discovery Point 846Dorset County Museum

277Dove Cottage & the

Wordsworth Museum 580

Dylan Thomas Centre 658

Electric Mountain 719Elgin Museum 855Fitzwilliam Museum

365-7Fossil & Heritage Centre

947Geffrye Museum 107

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1046museums continued

Glasgow Science Centre 801

Glenfinnan Station Museum 911

Gordon Highlanders Museum 851

Great North Museum 610

Hamilton Toy Collection 859

Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust 865-6

Herschel Museum of Astronomy 248

Highland Folk Museum 899

HM Frigate Unicorn 847Holyhead Maritime

Museum 741Housesteads Roman Fort

& Museum 624-5, 627, 624-5, 624, 625

Hunterian Museum 797-8

Imperial War Museum (Duxford) 376

Imperial War Museum (London) 113-14

Imperial War Museum North (Manchester) 540

International Bomber Command Centre 453

International Slavery Museum 555

Jackfield Tile Museum 435

Jane Austen Centre 247-8

Jorvik Viking Centre 486-7

Kelham Island Museum 526

Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum 797

Kendal Museum 596Keswick Museum 589Kildonan Museum 940King Richard III: Dynasty,

Death & Discovery 456Lake Village Museum 258Life Science Centre 610Lindisfarne Priory 634Loch Ness Centre &

Exhibition 892Lyme Regis Museum 282M Shed 237-8

Madame Tussauds 87Manchester Police

Museum 542Manchester United

Museum & Tour 546Manx Museum & Na-

tional Art Gallery 566Maritime Museum 529Morgan Motor Company

425-6Museum nan Eilean 934Museum of Bath Archi-

tecture 248-9Museum of British

Surfing 325Museum of London 93Museum of London

Docklands 108Museum of Norwich 390Museum of Science &

Industry 537Museum of the Gorge

433Museum of the History

of Science 191Museum of the Jewellery

Quarter 403Museum of Witchcraft &

Magic 329National Brewery Centre

420National Football

Museum 540National Maritime

Museum 112-13National Museum Cardiff

642-3National Museum of

Scotland 752National Railway

Museum 485-6National Slate Museum

718-19National Space Centre

456National Waterfront

Museum 658Natural History Museum

99, 102New Lanark 811Norwich Castle 389-90Owain Glyndŵr Centre

696Oxford University

Museum of Natural History 193

Peak District Lead Min-ing Museum 465

People’s History Mu-seum 537

Pitt Rivers Museum 192-3

Polar Museum 370

Potteries Museum & Art Gallery 422

Powysland Museum & Montgomery Canal 695

RAMM 303Rhayader Museum &

Gallery 693Richard III Experience

487-8Riverside Museum 801Robert Burns Birthplace

Museum 818Roman Army Museum

627Roman Museum 156Royal Armouries 516Royal Crown Derby

Factory 462Royal Pump Room

Museum 493Royal Worcester Porce-

lain Works 424Salisbury Museum

286-7Samuel Johnson Birth-

place Museum 422Science Museum 103Scotch Whisky Experi-

ence 755Seven Stories – The

Centre for Children’s Books 611

Shetland Museum 955Sir John Soane’s

Museum 89Skye Museum of Island

Life 932St Fagans National

History Museum 645St Mungo’s Museum

of Religious Life & Art 797

Staffin Dinosaur Museum 932

Storiel 729, 732Stromness Museum 949Sumburgh Head Visitor

Centre 958Torquay Museum 307Ullapool Museum 920V&A Dundee 846Verdant Works 846Verulamium Museum

224Victoria & Albert

Museum 102-3, 104-5, 104-5, 104, 105

Vindolanda Roman Fort & Museum 627

We the Curious 238-9Wellcome Collection 112

West Highland Museum 907

Wick Heritage Centre 913Wilberforce House 529Wimbledon Lawn Tennis

Museum 141World Museum 554World of Wedgwood 422Ypres Tower 168

music 964, 1000-2

NNarberth 670-1National Botanic Garden of

Wales 665National Gallery 80National Lobster Hatchery

331National Museum Cardiff

642-3national parks & forests

1007, 1008Brecon Beacons National

Park 681-90Cairngorms National

Park 895-902, 896Dartmoor National Park

318-24, 319Exmoor National Park

295-301, 296Forest of Dean 221-3Grizedale Forest 583Gwydyr Forest 717North York Moors

National Park 498-507, 499

Northumberland National Park 628-9, 623

Peak District National Park 466-78, 467

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park 669

Rothiemurchus Estate 898

Snowdonia National Park 14, 710-23, 712-13, 14

South Downs National Park 173-4

Whinlatter Forest Park 589

Yorkshire Dales National Park 507-14, 508

National Portrait Gallery 87

nature reservesCaerlaverock Wetland

Centre 819Cley Marshes 394Eden Project 348

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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1047Hermaness National

Nature Reserve 960Holkham National

Nature Reserve 396Mar Lodge Estate 901Mawddach Estuary 710Minsmere 386Mull of Galloway 822-3Orford Ness 386Sherwood Forest

National Nature Reserve 447

Slimbridge Wetland Centre 220

Nevis Range 910New Forest 263-8Newark-on-Trent 447-8Newcastle-upon-Tyne 60,

610-36, 612-13Newport 677-8Newquay 333-6newspapers 1024Newtonmore 899-900Norfolk 388-98Norfolk Broads 392North Coast 500 921North Coast (Wales) 727-39North Mull 867North Uist 939-40North Wales 61, 704-42

accommodation 704climate 704food 704highlights 705, 705travel seasons 704

North Wales Borderlands 706-10

North York Moors National Park 498-507, 499

North Yorkshire 483-98Northeast England 60,

606-36accommodation 606activities 607climate 606food 606highlights 608-9, 608-9history 607travel seasons 606travel to/from 607, 610

Northleach 206, 208Northumberland Coast

629-36Northumberland National

Park 628-9, 623Northwest England 60,

533-67accommodation 533climate 533food 533

highlights 534-5, 534-5travel seasons 533

Norwich 388-91, 389Notting Hill Carnival 35,

119-20, 34Nottingham 443-7, 444Nottinghamshire 443-8

OOasis 1001Oban 861-4Okehampton 324Old Man of Hoy 950Olympic Games 1013opening hours 1023Orkney 942-52, 943outdoor activities 42-7,

605, 44, 47, 604-5, see also individual activities

Outer Hebrides 932-41Oxford 15, 59, 187-200,

190-1, 15accommodation 193-6activities 193drinking & nightlife 198-9food 196-8history 187shopping 199sights 187-93tourist information 199tours 193travel to/from 199travel within 199-200walking 194-5, 195

Oxwich Bay 663-4Oyster Card 147

PPadstow 331-3Painswick 216-17painting 1002-4Palace of Holyroodhouse

751, 761, 751palaces, see castles &

palacesPaps of Jura 877Parkmill 663-4parks & gardens

Aberglasney Gardens 666

Alnwick Garden 630Backs, the 367-8Batsford Arboretum 211Beverley Westwood 531-2Bodnant Garden 734Botanic Gardens 799Bute Park 645

Cambo Walled Garden 840-1

Cambridge University Botanic Garden 369

Castle Kennedy Gardens 822

Chalice Well & Gardens 257

Clyne Gardens 662Coed y Brenin Forest

Park 714Dunbar’s Close Garden

756Dunkeld House Grounds

902Explorers Garden 903Fell Foot Park 573Forbidden Corner 507Hampstead Heath 111Hidcote 210-11Highgrove 213Holyrood Park 761Hyde Park 103, 100-1Inverewe Garden 922Kensington Gardens 103Kew Gardens 114-15Logan Botanic Garden

823Lost Gardens of Heligan

348National Botanic Garden

of Wales 665Ness Islands 885Pavilion Gardens 469Peasholm Park 496Potager Garden 347Prior Park Estate 248Queen Elizabeth Olympic

Park 108Regent’s Park 109Royal Botanic Garden 765Trelissick 350Tremenheere Sculpture

Garden 343Tresco Abbey Garden

357Victoria Park 109Williamson Park &

Tropical Butterfly House 562-3

Windsor Great Park 228-9

Winter Gardens 526Peak District National Park

466-78, 467, 604-5driving tour 475, 475

Peebles 812-13Pembroke Castle 670Pembrokeshire 19, 61, 667-

78, 667, 19accommodation 639

climate 639food 639highlights 640, 640travel seasons 639walks 675, 675

Pembrokeshire Coast Path 671

Penrith 602-3Pentre Ifan 678Pen-y-Fan 690Penzance 343-5, 344Perranporth 336Pickering 502Pitlochry 903-4planning

Bath 59Birmingham 59Brecon Beacons 61budgeting 22-3calendar of events 31-5Cambridge 59Canterbury 58Cardiff 61Central Scotland 62children, travel with 54-7Cotswolds 59Cumbria 60East Anglia 59Edinburgh 61Glasgow 62Great Britain basics

22-3internet resources 23Inverness 62itineraries 36-41Lake District 60Liverpool 60London 58Manchester 60Midlands, the 59Mid-Wales 61new visitors 24-5Newcastle 60North Wales 61Northeast England 60Northern Highlands 62Northwest England 60Oxford 59Pembrokeshire 61repeat vistors 26Snowdonia 61South Wales 61Southeast England 58Southern Scotland 62Southwest England 59Stirling 62travel seasons 22Yorkshire 60

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plants 1011Plockton 925-6Plymouth 313-18, 314politics 962-3Polperro 353Pontcysyllte Aqueduct &

Canal World Heritage Site 707

Poole 273-5population 963Porlock 298-9Port Charlotte 875-6Port Ellen 874Port Eynon 663Port Isaac 330-1Porthgain 674, 676Porthmadog 724-5Porthtowan 336Portmeirion Village 724Portree 929-31Portsmouth Historic

Dockyard 263postal services 1023Postbridge 321-3Potter, Beatrix 582-3Potteries, the 422Powys 690-8Preseli Hills 677Princetown 320-1Principality Stadium 645public holidays 1023pubs 18, 989puffins 634

QQueen Mary’s Dolls’ House

228Quiraing 932

RRadcliffe Camera 189, 214radio 1024rafting 46Raglan Castle 655railways, see heritage

railwaysRamsgate 162-4Reading 229Regent’s Canal 109religion 963, 991Rhayader 693-4Rhinns of Galloway 822-3Rhondda Valley 658Rhossili 664

Ribble Valley 564-5Ribblesdale 510Richmond 513-14River Cottage 305rivers 1010Road to the Isles 910-13Robert the Bruce 827, 844,

880, 972Robin Hood 971Robin Hood’s Bay 506Rock 331-3rock climbing 47, 926Roman sites 29

Binchester Roman Fort 626

Birdoswald Roman Fort 624, 626, 624

Brading Roman Villa 269

Caerleon 654Chedworth Roman

Villa 206Chesters Roman Fort

624, 626, 624Corbridge Roman Site &

Museum 626Hadrian’s Wall 15,

622-36, 623, 15, 624, 625

Housesteads Roman Fort & Museum 627

Roman Amphitheatre 548

Roman Baths 12, 26, 245-7, 12

Roman Painted House 167

Roman Town House 277Segedunum 626Vindolanda Roman Fort

& Museum 627Rosetta Stone 77Rosslyn Chapel 783-5,

784-5, 784, 882Ross-on-Wye 429-30Rothiemurchus Estate

898Rousay 952Rowling, JK 997, 1000royal Britain 27Royal Crescent 248Royal Deeside 900-2Royal Family 964Royal Shakespeare

Company 420Royal William Yard 316Royal Yacht Britannia 764rugby 412, 1015

Six Nations Rugby Championship 31, 647

Rugby 412

ruins 28-9, see also archaeological sites

Abbey Gardens 384-5Barnard Castle 621Bishops’ Palace 451Botallack 341Brading Roman Villa 269Dryburgh Abbey 814Dunfermline Abbey &

Palace 844Earl’s Palace 944Fountains Abbey 495Garn Goch 688Glastonbury Abbey

257-8Hailes Abbey 217-18Jedburgh Abbey 815Kelso Abbey 816Leicester Castle 456Lindisfarne Priory 634Llanthony Priory 685, 7Melrose Abbey 814Montgomery Castle

694-5Peveril Castle 472Rievaulx Abbey 499-500Roman Painted House

167Shaftesbury Abbey 285St Augustine’s Abbey

156St Davids Bishop’s

Palace 672St Non’s Bay 672Tynemouth Priory 617Valle Crucis Abbey 707Wenlock Priory 437Whitby Abbey 503-4

Ruthin 706-7Rutland 460-1Ryde 269-70Rye 168-71

Ssafaris 297safety 1023-4

hitching 1030Saffron Walden 380-1sailing 46-7Salisbury 286-9, 287Salisbury Cathedral 286Sandringham 395Sandwich 164-5Sark 175Saundersfoot 667-8Scarborough 495-8, 496Scotland 743-960

highlights 744, 744Scott, Sir Walter 996

Scottish Highlands 19, 62, 731, 884-960, 44, 731

accommodation 884climate 884food 884highlights 886, 886-7history 885travel seasons 884

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art 765

Scottish National Portrait Gallery 757-8

Scottish Parliament Building 751, 759-61, 751, 993

Scrabster 915-16sculpture 1002-4Sennen 342Seven Sisters Cliffs 174Shaftesbury 285Shakespeare, William 75,

96, 138-9, 415-16, 417, 995, 1004-5

Shakespeare’s Birthplace 415-16, 17, 215

Shakespeare’s Globe 75, 96, 138-9, 75

Shambles, the 487Sheeran, Ed 1002Sheffield 526-8Sherborne 284-5Shetland 952-60, 953shopping 30Shrewsbury 430-3, 431Shropshire 430-43Skara Brae 948skiing 47, 910Skipton 507-9Sky Garden 93Slaughters, the 208, 13snorkelling 358snowboarding 47Snowdon 720-2Snowdonia 14, 61Snowdonia National Park

14, 710-23, 712-13, 14accommodation 704climate 704food 704highlights 705, 705travel seasons 704

soccer 546, 1013-14Somerset 254-9Somerset Levels 257South Downs National Park

173-4South Mull 868South Uist 940-1South Wales 61

accommodation 639

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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DEX S

-W

climate 639food 639highlights 640, 640travel seasons 639

South Wales Valleys 656-7South West Coast Path

234, 296, 2, 730South Yorkshire 525-8Southbank Centre 97Southeast England 58,

151-84accommodation 151activities 154climate 151food 151highlights 152-3, 152-3travel seasons 151

Southend-On-Sea 381-2Southern Scotland 62,

789-823accommodation 789climate 789food 789highlights 790-1, 790-1travel seasons 789

Southwell 448Southwest England 59,

231-359accommodation 231activities 234climate 231food 231highlights 232-3, 232-3travel seasons 231travel within 234-5

Southwold 387-8spas

Bath 249Turkish Baths 493

Spice Girls 1001sports 141, 1013-16, see

also individual sportsSt Agnes 358-9St Albans 224-5St Andrews 836-40, 838St Andrews Old Course 837St Davids 671-4, 673St David’s Cathedral 672St Fagans National History

Museum 645St Ives 337-41, 338St John’s College 369, 17St Just 341-2St Kilda 938St Magnus Cathedral 944St Martin’s 358St Mary’s 356St Michael’s Mount 343St Paul’s Cathedral 89-91

Staffa 866Staffordshire 421-3Stamford 454-5stand-up paddleboarding

46stargazing 299stately homes & manors

27, 991Althorp House 455Avebury Manor 293Belton House 449Blackwell House 572-3Burghley House 454Castle Howard 492Chatsworth House 476Cotehele House 354Dumfries House 820Erddig 707Floors Castle 816Haddon Hall 476Hardwick Hall 466Hatfield House 228Holker Hall 599Kedleston Hall 463Kingston Lacy 272Lanhydrock 354Montacute House 260Osborne House 268Paxton House 812Plas Newydd 740Speke Hall 558Stoneleigh Abbey 412-13Stourhead 292Sulgrave Manor 456Traquair House 813Tretower Court & Castle

685-6Tyntesfield House 241

Steephill Cove 270Stirling 62, 827-35, 832Stirling Castle 21, 827,

830-3, 21, 830Stirling region 827-35

accommodation 826climate 826food 826highlights 828, 828-9travel seasons 826

Stoke Bruerne 460Stoke-on-Trent 422stone circles

Avebury Stone Circle 293

Callanish Standing Stones 935, 39

Standing Stones of Stenness 949

Stonehenge 11, 289-91, 290, 10-11

Stone of Destiny 749, 847, 972

Stonehenge 11, 289-91, 290, 10-11

Stornoway 934-5Stowe 225Stow-on-the-Wold 208-9Stranraer 822Stratford-upon-Avon 17,

415-21, 416-17, 17Strathglass 891Stromness 949-50Suffolk 382-8Sumburgh 958-9surfing 46, 605, 605

Bude 328Croyde 325Isle of Wight 267Newquay 334Porthgain 674Scarborough 497Snowdonia 718

Sutton Hoo 383Swansea 658-61, 660

TTarbert (Argyllshire) 871-2Tarbert (Harris) 936-7Tate Britain 86Tate Modern 26, 75, 96, 75Tate St Ives 26taxis 1030telephone services 22,

1024Tenby 668-70tennis 1016

Wimbledon Tennis 32Thames 74-5, 74-5, 74, 75Thames Valley 226-30Thatcher, Margaret 981theatre 1004-5Three Cliffs Bay 663Thurso 915-16time 22, 1024Tintagel 330Tintern Abbey 654Tobermory 865-7toilets 1024-5tombs

Barclodiad y Gawres Burial Mound 741

Carreg Coetan Arthur 678

Pentre Ifan 678Robert Burns Mauso-

leum 818Torquay 307-9Torridon 923-4Totnes 311-13

tourist information 1025Tower Bridge 92-3Tower of London 14, 91-2,

94-5, 94-5, 14, 94, 95Trafalgar Square 80train travel 1027, 1031-2travel to/from Britain

1026-7travel within Britain

1027-32trekking, see walkingTresco 357Trinity College (Cambridge)

365Trinity College (Oxford)

190-1Trooping the Colour 32Trossachs 858-61Trotternish 931-2Troutbeck 581Truro 350-1Turner, JMW 1003TV 1024Tynemouth 617-36

UUllapool 920-1Ullswater 595-6Unst 959-60Unst Bus Shelter 960Urquhart Castle 892, 894

Vvacations 1023Ventnor 270Victoria & Albert Museum

102-3, 104-5, 104-5, 104, 105

Victoria, Queen 978Victoria Tunnel 611villages 29visas 22, 1025

WWales 637-742

highlights 638, 638walking 42-7, 605

Bath 251, 251Beddgelert 722-3Ben Nevis 909Cader Idris 711Cambrian Mountains 691Cambridge 371, 371Coast to Coast 482Cornwall 731Cotswolds 202Cumbria 569Dales Way 482

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walking continuedDartmoor National

Park 318Dolgellau 710-11East Anglia 361Edinburgh 766-7, 772-3,

773England Coast Path 26Exmoor National Park

296Glasgow 800, 805, 805Goatfell 878Hadrian’s Wall Path 622Helvellyn 595Hermitage 902Isle of Skye 926Isle of Wight 266Killin 861Lake District 569, 579Loch Leven 841Loch Lomond 857Loch Morlich 899London Marathon 32Malvern Hills 426New Forest 264Northeast England 607Oxford 193, 194-5, 195Paps of Jura 877Peak District National

Park 468Pembrokeshire 675, 675Pembrokeshire Coast

Path 671Pennine Way 482Pen-y-Fan 690Scafell Pike 587Snowdon 720, 721South West Coast Path

43, 234, 296, 2, 730Southeast England 154Southwest England 234Trossachs 859White Rose Way 482Yorkshire 482, 483

Wallace Collection 87Wallace, William 972Warner Bros Studio Tour:

The Making of Harry Potter 224

Warwick 413-15, 414Warwickshire 410-21Wasdale 587-8waterfalls

Golitha Falls 354Lydford Gorge 324Sgwd-yr-Eira 689Swallow Falls 717

weather 22, 1020-1, see also individual locations

websites, see internet resources

weights 1024Wells 255-6Wells-next-the-Sea 395-6Welshpool 695-6West Highlands 906-13West Sussex 182-4West Wight 271West Yorkshire 514-25Western Gloucestershire

218-23Westminster Abbey 76-7Westray 951-2Weymouth 279-80whisky 21, 53, 755, 779,

855, 989, 50Spirit of Speyside 32

Whitby 502-7, 503white cliffs of Dover 165Whitstable 158-9Wick 913-14Widecombe-in-the-Moor

323wildlife 963-4, 1007wildlife reserves

Abbotsbury Swannery 282

Balranald RSPB Reserve 939

Braunton Burrows 325Cardigan Bay Marine

Wildlife Centre 701Cornish Seal Sanctuary

346Cotswold Falconry

Centre 213International Centre for

Birds of Prey 222

Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Centre 902

London Wetland Centre 115

Ramsey Island 672Red Kite Feeding Centre

689South Stack Cliffs RSPB

Reserve 741St Bees Head 599

wildlife watching 297Inverness 885Gairloch 922Mull 864Shetland 955Stornoway 934

Wiltshire 285-95Wimbledon Championships

32, 142, 1016, 34Winchcombe 217-18Winchester 260-3, 261Windermere 572-7, 574Windsor 226-30, 227Windsor Castle 227-8windsurfing 46wine 162, 989wineries

Bishop’s Castle 440Cornwall 329Kent 162St Martin’s 358Sussex 162Totnes 311

Woburn 225-6woodland areas 1009Woodstock 200-1Worcester 424-5Worcestershire 423-6Wordsworth, William 577,

580, 588, 996WWI 979WWII 979-80

YYell 959York 18, 483-92, 484-5, 18

accommodation 488-9activities 488

drinking & nightlife 490-1

festivals & events 488food 489-90shopping 491sights 485-8tourist information 491tours 488travel to/from 491-2travel within 492

York Minster 485, 18Yorkshire 60, 479-532

accommodation 479activities 482climate 479food 479highlights 480, 480-1history 482tourist information 483travel seasons 479travel to/from 483travel within 483

Yorkshire Dales National Park 507-14, 508

ZZennor 341-2zip-lining

Bangor 732Betws-y-Coed 717Peebles 812

zoosBristol Zoo Gardens 239Cotswold Farm Park 209Edinburgh Zoo 766Folly Farm 667Living Coasts 307-8Longleat 291-2Newquay Zoo 334Paignton Zoo 308Woburn Safari Park 226ZSL London Zoo 109-10

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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NO

TES1051

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1052

NO

TES

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1053N

OTES

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10541054

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Tube station

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

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Damian HarperLondon With two degrees (one in modern and classical Chinese from SOAS), Damian has been writing for Lonely Planet for over two decades, contributing to titles as diverse as China, Beijing, Shanghai, Vietnam, Thailand, Ireland, London, Mallorca, Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei, Hong Kong and Great Britain. A sea-soned guidebook writer, Damian has penned articles for numerous newspapers and magazines, including the Guardian and the Daily Telegraph, and currently

makes Surrey, England, his home. Follow Damian on Instagram (damian.harper).

Catherine Le NevezNewcastle & Northeast England, Birmingham & the Midlands Catherine’s wan-derlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writ-ing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgrad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Over the past dozen-plus years she’s written scores of

Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Topping Cathe-rine’s list of travel tips is to travel without any expectations.

Hugh McNaughtanWales Hugh has been obsessed with Wales since a childhood steeped in books about castles and longbows. A former English lecturer who swapped grant appli-cations for visa applications, turning his love of travel into a full-time thing, he’s scoured Wales from end-to-end since 1994, yet always comes up with new things to wonder at.

Lorna ParkesYorkshire Londoner by birth, Melburnian by palate and ex-Lonely Planet staffer in both cities, Lorna has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet books and mag-azines. She’s discovered she writes best on planes, and is most content when researching food and booze. Wineries and the tropics (not at the same time!) are her go-to happy places, but Yorkshire will always be special to her. Follow her @Lorna_Explorer.

Andy SymingtonGlasgow & Southern Scotland, Inverness & the Northern Highlands & Islands Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing

projects. Originally from Australia, Andy moved to northern Spain many years ago.

Greg WardOxford & the Cotswolds Since whetting his appetite for travel by following the hippy trail to India, and later living in northern Spain, Greg has written guides to destinations all over the world. As well as covering the USA from the Southwest to Hawaii, he has ranged on recent assignments from Corsica to the Cotswolds, and Japan to Corfu. See his website, www.gregward.info, for his favourite photos and memories.

Neil WilsonEdinburgh, Stirling & Central Scotland, Inverness & the Northern Highlands & Islands Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and

rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents.

Contributing writers: Peter Dragicevich, Steve Fallon and Emilie Filou

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Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415313th edition – May 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 806 8© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSOliver BerryCurator, Southwest England, the Lake District & Cumbria Oliver is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, including the Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and

the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.

Fionn DavenportManchester, Liverpool & Northwest England Irish by birth and conviction, Fionn has spent the last two decades focusing on the country of his birth and his near-est neighbour, England, which he has written about extensively for Lonely Planet and others. In between writing gigs he’s lived in Paris and New York, where he was an editor, actor, bartender and whatever else paid the rent; for the last 15 years or so he’s also presented a series of radio programmes on Irish radio, most

recently as host of Inside Culture on RTE Radio 1. Three years ago he moved to the northwest of England where he lives (and commutes from) with his partner, Laura, and their car, Trevor.

Marc Di DucaCanterbury & Southeast England A travel author for over a decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives near Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons.

Belinda DixonBath & Southwest England, Cambridge & East Anglia Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda has been (gleefully) researching and writing for Lonely Planet since 2006. It’s seen her marvelling at Stonehenge at sunrise, camping in Iceland, scrambling up Italian mountain paths, horse riding across Donegal’s gold-en sands, kayaking down Devon rivers, gazing at Verona’s frescoes and fossil hunt-ing on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. Belinda is also an adventure writer and expedition

media leader – which has seen her scale snowy Scottish mountains, paddle the Yukon, surf and swim in England’s winter seas and sleep out under the stars. See her posts at https://belindadixon.com.

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MORE WRITERS

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’