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    GRASSLANDS

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    GRASSLANDS

    Stealing Te Lions Share

    Dorobo Hunters, Kenya

    Te Arrow o Knowledge

    /Kun Namce and N//ao N!ani, Kalahari Bushmen

    Herds, Homes and Horses

    Nomads, Mongolia

    Snake Harvest

    Sap Lake, Cambodia

    2 - 31

    6 - 74 - 5

    10 -

    11

    8 - 9

    Ultimate Domination

    Herding Cattle, Austrailia

    Te ough Plants

    Introduction

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    THE TOUGH PLANTS

    1

    Much o the landscape reects a battle between the

    grasses and the trees. Where there is enough water, trees,

    woods and orests dominate, leaving the drier lands as

    the grass-dominated savannahs, prairies and steppes.

    Tese rolling grass-covered landscapes provide no inter-

    ruption to strong winds and no respite rom intense heat

    or severe cold. Tat the grasses themselves ourish here

    - and can withstand being rozen, drowned, burnt, tram-

    pled or grazed - is because they grow continuously rom

    the base, making them quick to regenerate and highlyproductive. Tey create a skin o ertility woven in roots,

    stems and tussocks that take advantage o every drop

    o rain, which is why grasses cover more o the Earths

    surace and eed more animals than any other plant.

    Te worlds great grasslands cover almost a quarter o the

    land surace and include the prairies o North America;

    the continental steppes o Eurasia, stretching rom the

    European plain to the Iranian east; the Central Asian

    steppes, which stretches unbroken nearly a third o the

    way around the globe; the Mongolian grasslands, which

    give way to the Gobi Desert; the pampas o Argentina;

    and the Arican veldt. Ten there are the savannahs,

    with a scattering o bush and sparse trees, that character-

    ize great swathes o East Arica, the dusty ringes o the

    Kalahari and northern Australia. Tere are also grass-

    lands that undergo massive changes with the seasons

    - six months dry, six months submerged by great oods.

    But by ar the most common grasslands are the millions

    o hectares under cereal cultivation. Indeed, our suc-

    cess in taming the grasslands means that ew wild onesremain.

    Grasslands are the landscapes where we rened and developed what

    it is to be a human. Once we discovered the power o re to shape

    grasslands, we began to reconstruct them, spreading elds acrossmountains, orests and even deserts. Te grassland landscape reach-

    es into our souls, refected in the suburban lawns and urban parks

    that we create today. Te human journey is interwoven with grass

    and grassland animals.

    We explore the ways o living on the grasslands, rom the most an-

    cient to the most recent. Its a story that begins with scavengers and

    resourceul hunter-gatherers and leads to the city dwellers most o

    us are today, driven by a series o ingenious revolutions in our rela-

    tionship with the nature o grasslands.

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    GRASSLANDS

    2

    Fire Power

    Te most powerul tool used by grassland people is re.

    Bush res are part o the seasonal ecology grasslands -

    the natural disaster borne o aridity and strong winds, to

    which mam o the plants are adapted. Evidence suggests

    our ancestor. Homo erectus, may have used re as much

    as 400,000 years ago to manipulate the landscape and

    get access to new ood sources. Small burns staggered

    in time and space create a mosaic o diferent habitats,

    some newly burnt with a resh ush o grass, some more

    mature with ruit and seeds. Such a mixture attracts

    more game, which in turn makes hunting easier. Burn-

    ing itsel can also help ush out game. In Australia, the

    Martu women will ollow the re-line ashes, tracking

    goanna lizards that have gone to ground to escape the

    ames. oday, we despair when wild land is burnt to

    create pasture, but it has been our ancestors sustained

    and repeated burning over millennia that has helped

    to create the landscapes we now consider to be natural

    wilderness - including the Serengeti o East Arica and

    the Kalahari o southern Arica.

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    STEALING THE LIONS SHARE

    3

    Te original human way o lie was hunting and gather-

    ing, and it is still practiced today by the Bushmen o

    the Kalahari in Botswana and Namibia, the Hadza o

    anzania and the Dorobo o anzania and Kenya. Yet it

    is a dying skill.

    Big herds ollow the new grass that springs rom the

    burning and the rains, and when migrations o wilde-

    beest in their thousands pass through their territory, its

    a boom time or hunter-gatherers. Humans, though,

    arent the only predators: lions, leopards and hyenas are

    both competition and potentially atal threats.

    Among the Dorobo o Kenya, the bravest hunters arethe ones who take advantage o lions - letting the pride

    do all the legwork and then stealing the kill rom under

    then noses. Tey live on the savannah o southwest

    Kenya and northern anzania, and hunting is an essen-

    tial part o their culture. When a child is born, the lather

    will mark the occasion by hunting a girafe, using simply

    stealth, a bow and poisoned arum.

    wice a year, the Dorobo witness the migration o hun-

    dreds o thousands o wildebeest, which cross betweenthe open grasslands o the Masai Mara and the Loita

    plains - drawn on by new rains and the promise o resh

    grass. o get there, they have to pass through the bot-

    tleneck o the Olginye valley and, most dangerously, the

    bushy gullies where both humans and lions lurk.

    Dorobo hunters watch the wildebeest movements at

    dawn rom rock lookouts. Sounds at night may also

    help them orientate their hunt the ollowing morning.

    But above all, the Dorobo use the lions to assist in their

    search or ood. Tey can tell just rom tracks whetherthe lions are hunting or simply moving, how ast they

    are going and whether the pride includes juveniles or

    experienced lionesses. Tey might use the lions to push

    the wildebeest towards their own limit or, i the tracks

    are resh and show a pursuit, they might ollow them in

    the hope o coming to a kill.

    I the Dorobo hunters see a lion kill, they approach the

    eeding animals close enough to assess the pride and

    whether or not cubs are present. o walk into a pride

    with cubs would be suicide, not because the lions would

    protect the kill but because lionesses might become very

    aggressive it they elt their young were threatened. Once

    the hunters have assessed the situation, they challengethe lions. Walking shoulder to shoulder, bows drawn,

    they approach the eeding pride until the lions give way.

    Reaching the kill, they work ast, with at least one man

    keeping watch while the others hack of chunks o meat

    or scavenge what remains o the carcass. Its a very coura-

    geous way o gathering ood.

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    GRASSLANDS

    4

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    THE ARROW OF KNOWLEDGE

    5

    Te Kalahari Ju/hoansi Bushmen still burn the land to

    improve their hunting. Te hunters skills come rom an

    intimate knowledge o the environment that ew other

    societies have retained, though modern desires and shit-

    ing ambition mean that such knowledge is dying out.

    One o ew remaining hunters is /Kun Namce. He can

    read the signs let by every animal that lives on the Kala-

    hari savannah - rom the hyenas, lions and scorpions

    that could kill him to the kudus, porcupines and beetles

    he eats. He has both a mental map o the geography

    o their land and a map o the behavior o the animals

    that live there - a way o seeing the world to which most

    o us are blind but which is vital to survival in the arid

    savannah.

    His weapon is a simple bow and arrows. Each arrow is

    made out o two diferent grasses, one that holds the

    arrow tip and a broader grass or a shat, jointed with a

    spindle-shaped bead o bone or wood and bound with

    sinew threads. Tis weak-point construction is an es-

    sential design eature. Te metal tips are covered with

    poison extracted rom the larvae o the Diamphidia

    simplex beetle. /Kun gets it by digging into the parched

    earth at the base o a particular species o myrrh treeor peanut-sized hard balls o sand encasing the beetle

    grubs. Te mashed-up grubs create a poison so potent

    that he need re-anoint his arrows only once a year. Yet

    to use the deadly arrows efectively, he has to be close

    enough to get a shot.

    In a rough grassy hide near a waterhole, /Kun waits. At

    15 metres (50 eet) rom the waterhole, there is a good

    chance o an accurate shot. A kudu approaches nerv-

    ously. Te arrow ies, and the kudu bolts. Te shat allsaway, but i /Kun is in luck, the barb has struck home.

    He waits or an hour or so or the poison to do its work

    beore he starts to track the victim. He and his ellow

    hunter N//ao N!ani have to stay close enough to nd

    the kudu beore a lion or leopard does but at a distance

    that doesnt make the animal run arther and extend the

    chase.

    Tere is a concentration and a transormation as they

    move, making hand gestures in silent conversation, tell-

    ing the story they see in the tracks. o track an animal,

    you must rst know it, but with tracking you begin to

    dance, you become that animal. You must think like

    that animal. says /Kun. Te track tells them how strong

    the animal remains, how ast it is moving. When theynally run in or the kill. N//ao N!ani delivers the death

    blow with a spear. Te hunters eat roast liver at the

    scene, but the meat belongs to the maker o the arrow (it

    might be a woman or a child), and it is carried hack to

    share among the whole village. Te east is ollowed by

    dancing, in which /Kun shares the story o the hunt so

    everyone will know how that animal died.

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    GRASSLANDS

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    HERDS, HOMES AND HORSES

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    Rather than restrict themselves to grazing their animals

    in the region o their villages. Mongolian nomads carry

    their homes - gers - with them as they and their herds

    ollow the grazing. Tey owe their success to another

    animal o the grasslands, the horse. A horse needs to

    graze oten and regularly, and unlike a cow, it cant rumi-

    nate (regurgitate and then rechew vegetation), but it can

    run switly and or long distances. It is thought that the

    rst people to ride horses did so about 6500 years ago,

    which gave them greater speed, endurance and strength

    on the plains than ever beore. It also gave rise to terriy-

    ing ghting orces. Te biggest empire in human history,

    stretching rom Europe across central Asia and all o

    China, that o the thirteenth-century Genghis Khan,

    was built on a horse-mounted army. oday, Mongolians

    are no longer eared ghters, but the bond with horses

    remains.

    Mongolia is a land without ences, and though the hors-

    es are owned and branded, they are not corralled or shod

    and roam ree in stallion-led herds. When it comes time

    to move to new grassland, they are driven along with

    the other livestock. Tey are ridden but also milked, and

    ermented mares milk is still an essential summer ood.

    First, though, you have to catch your mare.

    In late June, when new oals are about a month oldand the spring grass is vibrant green, riders rom every

    amily, some as young as nine, saddle up and head out

    to round up their horses - perhaps a small herd o 50

    or one as large as 1000. Many o the people dress in

    brightly coloured silk deel coats that shimmer in the

    morning sunlight.

    In Chuluuns amily, six riders round up more than 100

    horses When the herd is brought to the ger, Ulaana takes

    on the task o catching a oal. Equipped with a larchpole about 6 metres (10 eet) long with a simple leather

    loop lasso at the end. Ulaana and his horse cut and twist

    through the herd at a canter, aiming to loop the deli-

    cate lasso around a oals neck. Foals and mothers run

    together, doubling back through the herd, but Ulaana

    skillully lassoes a oal, leaning back in his wooden sad-

    dle to hold the pole steady until his cousin ungaa gets a

    halter on it.

    ungaa then drags the oal to a rope strung between

    two posts at ankle level and ties it up. Tey repeat theprocess until all the oals are tied up. Te mares, mean-

    while, stay close by, and now the boys turn their mounts

    in pursuit o them. Tese mares are not broken in, and

    or the three-year-old ones in their rst season, there is a

    rightening surprise ahead.

    Te chase is wild, the dust ies and the mares lean as

    they turn and race ahead o the herd. Ulaana reaches

    orward, both hands on the pole while also holding the

    reins, and stands up in the saddle at a ull gallop. With

    incredible horsemanship he lassoes the mare. But ear

    makes her strong, and she bucks and rears, and Ulaana

    needs all his strength to hold the pole. When she pulls

    ree, the mare bolts back to the herd with the pole

    trailing along beside her. As she comes past him, Esee

    lurches or the pole, is pulled of balance and lands ace

    down in the dust. Eventually the lasso noose loosens and

    alls open. Te pole drops to the ground and is broken

    by the pounding hooves. Tey have to start over.

    Tis time, the pursuit is swit and the catch is clean, but

    it takes a second noose beore the trio o horses comes

    to a halt. Te mares eyes stare with ear and deance

    as Esee approaches her on oot. He talks sotly, with a

    halter held at arms length. Slowly, calmly, he slips the

    strapping around her head. Only then does he remove

    the lassos. With help rom Chuluun he straps up her

    orelimbs and hobbles her back legs so she can onlylurch towards her tethered oal. Te two are let alone

    or a ew hours beore milking is attempted.

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    GRASSLANDS

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    HERDS, HOMES AND HORSES

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    With encouraging murmuring, they bring the oal to

    suckle, then interrupt its drinking to milk the hobbled

    mare. With that done, the oal drinks again, and ungaa

    takes the milk away to make the most treasured summerood, arak - a 24-hour- ermented yogurt.

    At sunset, both mares and oals are released to suckle

    uninterrupted and spend the night together beore

    the whole challenge begins again next morning, and

    the next - until autumn arrives and the amily have to

    pack up their gers, made o canvas, wood and elt -and

    continue their search or grass. Tis perennial quest has

    shaped the whole ger liestyle, and though many Mon-

    golian nomad amilies now have lorries to help with themove, others still use yak-drawn carts.

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    GRASSLANDS

    8

    Te Peoples Grass

    Te real exploitation o ooded grasslands in Cambodia

    and elsewhere in Asia comes with the damming o silt-

    rich oodwaters into paddies tor the domesticated grass

    that we now know as rice.

    We have been locked in mutual dependence with grasses

    or millennia. Rice, wheal, maize, barley, sorghum, mil-

    let, and sugar cane - all are grasses that weve adapted or

    our uses, breeding them or plumper seeds, taller stems,

    earlier ripening and resistance to drought, rain, insects

    or germs. And it was grass that has ultimately tipped the

    balance towards urbanization. Our love afair with these

    cereals shows no sign o waning, and as the original

    grasslands have vanished, so the domesticated grasseshave spread.

    ogether, grasses supply an astounding 75 per cent o

    carbohydrates and more than 50 per cent o protein to

    the human population. Pastures in the temperate world

    alone eed cattle that produce 80 per cent o the worldscows milk and more than 70 per cent o the worlds

    bee and veal. Tese are monocultures in which the

    number o plant species is reduced to just one. Te land

    is boosted in ertilizers, doused ill pesticides and sown,

    tended and harvested by machine. Te industrialized

    grasslands o the USA have a rural population density

    on a ar with Arctic Greenland, with no more than six

    people per square mile. But the supergrasses remain a

    luscious temptation or grass-eating animals, and we are

    still locked in a never-ending battle against what we nowcall pests.

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    SNAKE HARVEST

    9

    In Cambodia, people living around the onle Sap Lake

    exploit the surrounding grassland in a unique way. Te

    monsoon rains are so heavy that the water level o the

    lake rises by up to 8 metres (26 eet), increasing its size

    by our times and ooding the grassland. o keep above

    water, the grass grows ast and also oats in matts. Te

    people cope by living on stilted or even oating houses.

    But there is a bonanza. Te oodplain provides the

    perect nursery or a myriad o small sh, which in turn

    are hunted by millions o amphibious snakes, including

    cobras. Living on narrow boats or days at a time, whole

    amilies net the snakes they eat the guts and then sell

    the bodies at market. An average 6.9 million snakes are

    traded in a season - grabbed and weighed by the hand-

    ul, skinned and eaten dried or ried, with a sprinkle o

    chilli, as a bony but protein-rich snack. In todays world,

    though, many also end up as odder or the nearby

    crocodile arms.

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    GRASSLANDS

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    ULTIMATE DOMINATION

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    Human domination o the grasslands is getting ever

    more intense. We have made whole landscapes into

    monocultures and controlled herds so huge that

    we need helicopters to round them up. Among the

    biggest cattle herds are those in the Northern erritory

    o Australia - a continent where cattle arent native but

    are 30 million strong. It is a mark o our ingenuity

    that we can shit grassland animals around the globe to

    meet our needs. For cattle stations that have hundreds

    o thousands o animals ranging over immense pastures

    o 6110 square kilometres (232 square miles) or more -

    bringing in the herd means taking to the air.

    Te helicopter cattle round-ups are immense spectacles.

    Teir sound precedes them, as three helicopters y in

    ormation, driving several thousand cattle a day over

    the vast landscape. o keep the nervous animals moving

    towards the holding pens, the helicopters criss-cross the

    land, assisted by riders on the ground, oten smothered

    in sufocating clouds o ne red dust. Te pilots have

    to be excellent yers, with lightning reexes and able

    to manoeuvre in the dust clouds. Tey y low and ast

    and need lo read the landscape and understand cattle

    behaviour. When cows hide among the trees, the pilots

    may have to land and chase them on oot.

    Hundreds o thousands o cattle are herded to collec-

    tion points and loaded onto massive land trains that trailacross Australias Northern erritory to the ships waiting

    in the northern ports. Tis is a live-export trade, breed-

    ing and attening cattle originally rom one continent on

    the grass o another beore exporting them to a third.

    Outwardly it seems as i humanity has tamed the grass-

    lands and crushed most o the competition. But will we

    become victims o our incredible success? Agriculture

    currently sustains a huge urban population. Yet by 2030,

    there will be more than 8 billion human, which some es-

    timate will require a 30 per cent increase in grain yields.

    As more and more people want to eat meat and drive

    cars powered by biouel, well need to grow even more

    grain. Once again it is grasslands that will determine the

    uture o mankind, and out intelligence will be tested to

    keep this crucial relationship in balance.

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    GRASSLANDS