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GRAPEVINEGRAPEVINES

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TUSCANY’S

MAGAZINE

The magazine for those who live in Tuscany – or wish they did

calendar!

WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

8-page fold-out

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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine April 2017 2

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LUNATA - LUCCA tel. 0583.429333 - fax 0583.429158

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ContentsDirettore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

EditorNorma Jean Bishop

Contributors

Norma Jean BishopChiara CalabreseClaudia CasoliDavid CollinsDebra KolkkaJennifer MilvertonDina MontalbanoDiccon MastermanSue PerryDonna PilletereDee SchafferSimone RabassiniJenny SchutzSilvano SimiMaria TuttovinoValencia Wolf

Cover: Magnolias at the English Library,Bagni di Luccaby Debra Kolkka

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine di Grapevine Editions

Registered office: Via Guinigi, 22 - Lucca 55100. Visit us at Via dell’Angelo Custode 3A.Mobile +39 333 8617962 - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com P. IVA 02416230460 - C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D. Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016.

Printed by Luminarprint srl - Calcinaia (PI).

Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the Editor. Advertising in editorial form may also be submitted for inclusion.

© Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine © What’s On In & Around

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.

3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine April 2017

Art/Music/Beauty/Fun

Traditions & History

Excursions

Spotlight

Practical

Events of the Month

Where to Stay in Lucca

Bilingual Crossword

Properties for Sale

Professionals

Lucca Classica Music Festival

Retaining Old Tuscany

11-18

The Golden Dream 4A Lucchese Artist Comes HomeComing to My Senses in Lucca 6

Book Review: Richard Wagner 19Toto Perry Comes to Lucca 21Luccalele and the Open Mic 22

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Pisa’s Dromedaries 7Tower of the Hours 9

Castles, Skeletons, Caverns & Donkey Trails 1019

Have Some Madeira, My Dear! 20

The Happiness Index 23San Luca Hospital, Follow-up 24

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Grapevine Labor Day Thai Lunch

Markets, Museums & Monuments, VenuesWhat's On: Music, Art & ExhibitionsTraditions, Sagras, Sports, Children, Cinema, Conferences

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When in April sweet showers fall,That pierce March's drought to the root…

Many little birds make melody…And folk long to go on pilgrimage…

And palmers go seeking out strange strands.(from Chaucer, The Canterbury Tales)

It's April, dear Readers, and like Chaucer's pil-grims we long to set out on voyages. What better time of year for Grapevine to suggest hikes in Italy (through InterNations) – and further afield, an excursion to the island of Madeira, that green Portuguese gem in the Atlantic just waiting for you to discover it.

Closer to home, you might enjoy roaming San Rossore Nature Reserve in search of dromedaries, or opening up your senses in Lucca, as one of our writers has done. You might hear bells ringing out the hours, smell bread baking, walk barefoot through the grass along with a talking dog named Toto, while someone nearby might just be strumming a ukulele….

This month the Lucca Film Festival will bring a wealth of cinematographic culture to our town's theaters and streets (don't miss the lively evening known as Effetto Notte Cinema, on 8 April). Then in early May, Lucca Classica Music Festival will return to fill the city with music. It's all happening here!

Most of us agree that Italian cuisine is the best in the world, still I hope that you will join the Grapevine extended family for a May Day lunch at La Cantina di Carignano, where Chef Paolo Monti will share his Thai cooking with us. Don't forget to reserve early. (See the invitation on page 19.)

In this issue, I've again been able to report good news about Lucca's hospital, and also some data from the World Happiness Report, which measures happi-ness on another scale besides just the economic one. I would love to hear your points of view on the matter!

I hope this little introduction to our issue has tantalized you and that you find the articles stimulating and fun.

Happy reading!Norma

Editorial

2017April

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o f f se t & d ig i t a l p r i n t i ng


he short film Il Sogno d'Oro (The Golden Dream) will be screened at Cinema Astra of Lucca on 8 April during the Lucca Film Festival. This project, first conceived by Professor Carla Nolledi with the scientific contribution and support of Dr. Enrico Marchi, is an extraordinary experience in the field of psycho-social rehabilitation activities. TT

The Association Il Sorriso di Stefano (Stefano's Smile), which first believed in the idea and in the importance of promoting a therapeutic method to create a state of wellness and fun for patients, has strongly backed the project. Photography and editing were directed by Simone Rabassini and the screenplay was written by Debora Pioli. Actors Simona Generali and Paolo Giommarelli played the role of two attendees who follow the patients during the months of preparing the performance. The other protagonists are members of the therapeutic community.

The film begins with Il Sogno d’Oro, a lullaby that Puccini wrote in 1912 and subsequently used in his opera La Rondine. The film illustrates the great and unusual passion of a young man for the music of Giacomo Puccini. This man is nicknamed “Puccini” by his friends. It is thanks to his passion that this “dream” comes true. His friends and companions join him in a dreamlike journey through the wonder of theater, scenes, lights and shadows, in a tribute to Puccini's music and to the extreme beauty of the landscapes and natural scenery of Puccini's works (Torre del Lago, Chiatri and Teatro del Giglio are the main locations).

The protagonists’ comments reveal the transformational power of the creative experience. Listening to Butterfly makes me feel like a butterfly, too, commented Ilaria. What Tosca gives me is definitely strength and courage, adds Daniela.

Music listening workshops were held beginning in 2008 to mark the 150th anni-versary of Puccini's birth, along with a the-atrical experience during the World Congress of Art Therapy held in Lucca in 2011. In 2016, the film project brought the experience to a wider audience, demon-strating the great expressive and thera-peutic value of music.

The film was produced thanks to the support of the Associations Il Sorriso di Stefano, Lucchese Arte e Psicologia, La Mano Amico and Con La Musica, in collaboration with the Teatro del Giglio.

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Carmassi in his studio in 1984

In the words of Oriano Landucci, president of the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca: Arturo Carmassi is a Lucchese painter and sculptor with an international reputation…. This homage to the artist is a gift to Lucca that rediscovers him after many years of absence and distance. Arturo Carmassi was born in Via dei Fossi, as he always loved to remember, and we know that he dearly wanted to hold an exhibition in the town of his birthplace. So we are proud to have satisfied this desire of his and to have done so two years after his death, offering our citizens the opportunity to get to know a great Lucchese, in an event that will enrich our town.

Carmassi's paintings and sculptures are the main focus of his work, but he also was a multi-faceted experimenter, a surrealist, informally abstract, and above all a master of the language of simplification. Thanks to the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Carmassi's works can also be seen in Piazza San Michele and Piazza San Martino. The elegant, dynamic sculptures are vectors in space and also serve as reflectors of the city's architecture. At the same time,

rturo Carmassi was born in Lucca in 1925 and moved to the objects and paintings that illustrate Carmassi’s use of colors, Torino with his family while still a child. During the volumes and spaces can be seen on display at the Foundation's post-war period when Carmassi was a young Palazzo delle Espozioni in Piazza San Martino, 7.independent artist, the art scene in Torino was strongly The exhibition at the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca AA

influenced by the Neo-cubism movement. In 1952, Carmassi moved will be inaugurated at 6 pm on 2 April 2017 at the Palazzo delle to Milan, where he was in contact with the avant garde, and his art Esposizioni in Piazza San Martino. The closing date is 4 June. (paintings, etchings, sculptures) took on aspects of Surrrealism. (Hours: Tuesdays to Sundays 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm). The curator of From 1955 to 1965 he dedicated himself to sculpting large-scale the exhibition is Massimiliano Simoni, with coordination by works, exhibiting world-wide: Brazil, New York, Anvers, Maria Stuarda Varetti. Speaking at the inauguration will be the Amsterdam, Venice, Rome, Freiburg, Rennes, Florence. Many of famed art critic Vittorio Sgarbi.his works are in museums and institutions. The last years of his life were spent in Fucecchio, and he died in Empoli in January 2015. www.fondazionebmluccaeventi.it


EXHIBITION 2 APRIL TO 4 JUNE

hy do you keep going back to the same place? asked my friends and neighbors WWin Colorado after my third

trip to Lucca in three years. Now, after my thirteenth stay in Lucca in thirteen years, they have stopped asking, but I do have some answers.

into the day. I filled my bottle with sparkling As a person who lived in her head for water from the fountains, savored the prosciutto, many years, I came to my senses during the pecorino, the fresh fruits and vegetables in the that first visit to Lucca. I like that feeling, markets, and felt the knobby cobblestones under and so I keep coming back for more.my feet. While trying to decide among limitless After a brief visit to Lucca thirty variations of focaccia, I reveled in the swirling years earlier, an inner voice kept repeating symphony of taste, sound, and smell that is Giusti I just want to go and hang out in Lucca. bakery. The voice persisted through a few detours

To live in the senses is to feel alive in every like marriage, motherhood, and divorce, pore. Each morning at breakfast I slowly but then, I still had to bury my fears about examined the frost on my cappuccino and the airy money and single travel. Finally, in 2004 I flakes on my cornetto. There was nothing for me bought an airline ticket and enrolled in a to read, because reading the Italian newspaper language school in Lucca for two weeks.

took too much effort. Walking Le Mura was like walking through During those weeks I made some wonderful friends, and I also a film of throbbing life, and walking to school in the morning was learned that it is OK if I am one of the slowest learners in the class. like viewing an exhibit of passing faces. As bicycles whizzed by But I had no idea that those two weeks would change my life.me within inches, it was also a survival test, adding more In finding compassion for myself and my learning excitement to my day.challenges, I also found compassion for my two Italian

How ironic! In a place where I was clumsy with the language, grandparents who arrived in the States in their early twenties. I felt understood. In places where I was lost, help appeared What was it like for Nonna, my maternal grandmother, to leave instantly at my side. The friends I met in that first language class her parents and brothers in Italy and live in New York with her are still friends today, and I see them every time I return. new husband and his family, all of whom spoke English? And

The broadest vision I could have in my life ... to be connected what was it like for Grandpa Montalbano, my paternal to my past while at the same time to be richly connected to my grandfather, to open his own shoe repair shop in Brooklyn and present … I found in Lucca. The journeys to Lucca have brought talk to his American customers? I remember that he struggled me away from my home in the United States, but ultimately they with English, but he never forgot the words to all the popular have brought me home to me. Italian opera arias. Because of him I was finally able to become an

Italian citizen in 2013, allowing me to stay in the medieval city I love for longer and longer visits. How he would have loved this city of Puccini!

I still struggle with Italian, but that wasn't really what I was here to learn. During that first visit, I woke up each morning to the chimes of San Michele vibrating through my soul and calling me

A long-term annual visitor to Lucca since 2004, Dee Montalbano teaches her MoonWriting workshops in Lucca, and in Boulder, Colorado. Her book, Crossing Seventy: Moments of Outrageous Ageing, is featured on Amazon, and she can be reached at [email protected].

Coming to My Senses in Lucca


he handsome Tenuta di San Rossore, located near Pisa, approximately three kilometres from the city centre, is a TT natural park well worth a visit. The more

than 4,800 hectares covered by the park are characterised by a great wealth of animal and plant species.

Not everyone knows that in the park there are also three dromedaries, two females and a male. They were donated to the park in 2014 by the Agesci Scout Group. Before arriving in Pisa, the three animals were already accustomed to a non-African climate. In fact, War their number was reduced to fewer than seventy. They had

been slowly diminishing in number because of sales, lack of one of the females comes from the Parco Faunistico Le Cornelle, in donations, diseases, reduced grazing areas and modern breeding the Bergamo province; the other two from the Parco Faunistico methods that required the disposal of weak animals, and they Leopark of Gualdo Cattaneo, in the Perugia province.totally disappeared when they were slaughtered for meat. The tradition of having dromedaries in San Rossore has a

Today, there are plans for helping them breed. Their presence long history. The first specimens were introduced in 1622 by the is important because they contribute to the restoration of the sand Grand Duke Ferdinand II de' Medici, who had received them as a dunes ecosystem along the coast, as these animals help clean the gift from Africa. In reality, they weren't a novelty for Tuscany, as beach without damaging the dunes. The three dromedaries roam it seems that these exotic animals had existed here since the freely in the park, and the Centro Visite San Rossore organises Middle Ages. Although they were perhaps introduced mainly as a guided tours to spot them. curiosity, Grand Duke Francis III decided to take the matter

The park entrance is free and the park is open to the general seriously and attempted breeding them. The animals found a public at weekends and festivities, while during the week it is favorable climate and fitted perfectly with the local ecosystem. It open for pre-booked organized tours.was therefore a great success.

– by Chiara CalabreseOther Italian sovereigns, envious of the Grand Duke's success, tried breeding the animals but failed. The dromedary

San Rossore Visitors Centre: Tel. 050 530101could not be acclimatized to any other part of Tuscany except for [email protected] – www.parcosanrossore.orgSan Rossore. Over the course of time, the total number fluctuated

because of cold winter weather and diseases, but in 1789 there To reach the Tenuta di San Rossore, take the n. 6 bus from Pisa (Viale Gramsci-

were a total of 196 animals. They gradually started to be seen as Barbaricina), get off at Viale delle Cascine and walk the 3km to the entrance. Or, you can rent a bike in Pisa.another Italian livestock species, but during the Second World

Pisa’s Dromedaries

Dromedaries cleaning the beach

Postcard from Pisa (about 1920)© Ufficio Promozione, Park Migliarino-San Rossore-Massaciuccoli, Pisa, Italy


ucca Classica, now in its third edition, is an overflowing of musical emotion and fabulous music-making. The Festival will take place in concert halls Laround Lucca as well as in the city's most beautiful

locations: in the streets, on the Walls, in historical palazzos, museums and churches (notably the baroque jewel-box of Santa Caterina Church, recently restored with the help of the FAI). Over 300 musicians will be involved in 90 events, most of them free.

In fact, each day of the Festival will conclude with a major concert. On 4 May (9 pm) at the Church of San Francesco, music from cinema will be performed by the Orchestra and Chorus of the Istituto Superiore di Studi Musicali Luigi Boccherini directed by GianPaolo Mazzoli, with John Williams' theme music from Star Wars, The Phantom Menace, Saving Private Ryan and Harry Potter. On 5 May (9.15 pm) at the Church of San Pietro Somaldi, Dutch organist/harpsichordist Liuwe Tamminga will perform 21 pieces composed by Puccini and rediscovered thanks to the research of the Centro Studi Giacomo Puccini (see insert). On 6

May (9.15 pm) at Teatro del Giglio, Mario Brunello (cello) and Andrea Lucchesini (piano) will perform. Finally, on 7 May (9 pm), in one of the most exciting events of the festival, cellist/composer Giovanni Sollima will direct his orchestra of 100Cellos (above) with the talented cellist Enrico Melozzi. Throughout the festival, the cellists will also be performing in Lucca's streets and squares.

Lucca Classica will be collaborating with the Anteprima Vini della Costa festival (held on 6/7 May) for the second year. At the Real Collegio of Lucca, along with the perfumes and flavors of the coastal Grand Cru wines, there will be concerts with Giovanni Bietti at the piano, violinist Alberto Bologni playing Paganini’s Capricci, Jeff Bredetich and Thierry Barbè (bass players), and the trio of Elisabeth Lochman (violin), Lorenzo Giovannelli (viola) and Gabriele Micheli (spinet).

Children and families will be delighted by puppet performances telling the life of Luigi Boccherini and marionettes with stories from Puccini's operas. There are guided visits to the Giacomo Puccini Birthplace Museum, the Arturo Paoli Orchestral Laboratory inspired by the Abreu System, and the explosive Lucca Classica Street Band.

Tickets go on sale be at the Teatro del Giglio box office (10.30am to 1pm, 4pm to 7pm Wed. to Sat.).

ginning in April

When Giacomo Puccini wrote organ music for his student …

Before his departure for Milan in 1880, Puccini composed organ music. One of his organ students was a tailor from Porcari named Carlo Della Nina. Puccini wrote numerous pages of organ music for Della Nina – often cheerful and lively. These pages were kept in the Della Nina family for many years, but in the 1980's they were sold. Fortunately, copies had been made. The handwriting is certainly that of Puccini, and the style also. As a result of this discovery (and thanks to the complicated reconstruction work of the Centro Studi Giacomo Puccini, especially Gabriella Biagi Ravenni, Dieter Schickling and Virgilio Bernardoni), we can now enjoy the surprising music that Puccini created for organ. This includes waltz melodies and citations from various music (including a reference to Verdi's Rigoletto). Organist Liuwe Tamminga, one of the greatest experts on the repertoire of the 1500s and 1600s, will be performing Puccini’s compositions on 5 May. He is the head organist of Bologna's Basilica of San Petronio and curator of the Tagliavini Collection at Bologna's San Colombano Museum.


Lucca Classica Music Festival, May 4/5/6/7

Mario Brunello

Banca del Monte di Lucca, Louis Simon's 1754 clock is returning to the Torre delle Ore and the bells should begin to ring AA again in April.

The clock tower's history began in the 1400s, when Lucca had more than 200 towers. These were symbols of family wealth. In the 14th century the poet Fazio degli Uberto wrote:

Andando noi vedemmo in picciol cerchioTorregiar Lucca a guisa d'un boschettoE donnearsi con prato e con Serchio

On our approach, we saw enclosed within a circleTowering Lucca, in aspect like a forest,In casual colloquy with meadows and the river Serchio.

fter being on display for the month of March at the Fondazione

Tower of the Hours – Lucca’s Public Clock

Beginning in the 13th century, the Quartigiani family owned the house and tower known as the Tower of Penitence, situated at the corner of Via Santa Croce and Via dell'Olivo. The family's political defeat in 1390 and the scattering of their properties among family members may have contributed to the tower being turned over to the government.

On May 4, 1370, after the city regained its freedom from Pisan dominion, the decision was made to install a clock and bell. Twenty years later, an agreement was made with the artisan Labruccio Cerlotti to make the iron clock, identical to one in Pisa. This would be Lucca's first public clock. The clock had no dial, but struck the hours on a bell cast by Nicolao Bondi of Cortona. The tower was then re-named Torre delle Ore. In 1460 the Republic of Lucca acquired the tower, and in 1490 the tower officially became a public building, as it has remained up to the present day.

In 1699 a new clock was made, and in 1752 this needed replacement. The job was given to Louis Simon from Geneva, who was known as the best clockmaker in Europe. For 6670 French livres plus a daily stipend of 12 livres, Simon built the clock and brought it to Lucca, with its hammer, iron housing, pendulum, etc. It weighed 1000 pounds 18 ounces, so moving it was not an easy enterprise.

Simon's clock was repaired in 1999. It functioned until November 2016, when it was dismantled and taken to a clock restorer in Florence. Then in March of this year it was placed on display by the Rotary Foundation at the Foundation's Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Now Lucca’s first clock will again sound the hours, as it has done for centuries.

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0583 312911

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EditionsGRAPEVINE


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hen we arrived in Italy a couple of years ago, with the intention of perhaps living here permanently, one of the things that we knew WWwe wanted to do was walk. Simple, you might

say. It's a beautiful country to walk in. What could be easier? Well, yes, lovely to walk in, but where? After a lifetime of Ordnance Survey maps in varying scales, all of them accurate and full of detail, there could be no denying that in Italy large-scale maps were not so numerous or accurate. In our immediate locality many of the old donkey tracks (the equivalent of English footpaths) are overgrown and impenetrable. The available maps show some tracks that have disappeared, and omit others that remain. This is not a criticism. The history, land use, geography and geology of a country create its present From the castle ram-reality and these differences parts there are wonderful are part of the attraction. views into the distant Alpi

In order to dip our toes Apuane. Our route took us into the water, so to speak, to up through a mixed wood-understand the routes and to land, then onto an upland wander further afield, we plain with open meadows, decided to join Florence farmland and isolated vil-InterNations Hiking Group. lages. Mariella paused reg-InterNations is an umbrella ularly to discuss the association that provides the changing plant life, to opportunity to meet like- answer questions and to minded people in many cit- elaborate on the views and ies around the world. Many the local history. subjects and interests are cov- After visiting the Equi ered and the group is particu- Terme museum, which larly useful for members gave an overview of the who might only be in a place geology, geography and on a temporary basis. pre-history of the immedi-Whether visiting for busi- ate vicinity, we finished ness, study or retirement, our day in the caves, which this is a shortcut into feeling more at home and experiencing some themselves show the remains of Palaeolithic occupancy. This was of what the new city/country has to offer. enlivened by a power failure when we were deep in the bowels of

Fortunately, Andrea, who organises the hiking group, is both the earth! After a six-hour walk, a ten-minute train journey took us efficient and conscientious. He has enlisted the skills of a back to our starting point. Of course, it is not all walking! There was professional guide, Mariella, so all routes are pre-walked and a good long stop for the essential packed lunch, many pauses for researched. Most people car share from Florence or take a train information, questions, views, plants, architecture and anything else where this is feasible. that might capture the attention.

The first hike that we were able to join was in We have since gone on three more hikes. the Lunigiana area of northern Tuscany, starting We never know what Andrea and Mariella are from the train station at Gragnola. Italians, going to come up with next, but whatever it is, Americans, English, and a dog were amongst the we know we will be in good company and in participants. “First things first,” especially for the one of the most varied and beautiful regions we Italians, was coffee. On subsequent trips, this has have ever experienced.always been the essential start to the day! – by Jennifer Milverton

The hike included an exclusive visit to a cas-For more information:

tle, Castello dell'Aquila, restored by a remark-www.internations.org/Florence

able woman who from a ruin has created a thing of great beauty and historical interest. It takes extraordinary optimism to face such a huge pro-ject. She has contributed greatly to the under-standing of the area’s history. The discovery of the centuries-old skeleton of The Gragnola Knight, who was murdered and secretly buried, has proved an exciting discovery. The castle dates from the eleventh century, but the site may have Roman origins.

Castles, Skeletons, Caverns & Donkey Trails

Andrea & Mariella

MarketsGeneral markets Books and prints Arts & Craft

Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayLucca, Piazzale Don Baroni Lucca, Corte del Biancone DailyMarina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoons(Tagliate, near the Serchio River) Wed & Sat a.m.Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the Lucca, Piazza S. Francesco 2nd Sunday of month. Antiques

monthLucca, Piazza del Carmine Monday to Saturday Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday

Pieve Fosciana last SundayB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m. Altopascio 2nd Sunday

S. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. Montecarlo 2nd Sunday Plants and flowers

Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday morningsPonte a Moriano Tues a.m. Forte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Pietrasanta 3rd SundayS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m. Pietrasanta 1st Sunday

Pietrasanta Thurs a.m. Barga 2nd SundayMarkets in Florence (the biggest)

Marina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m. Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, Tonfano Sat a.m. Bientina 4th Sat/Sunday closed SundaysCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Pescia 4th Sunday Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pmPescia Sat a.m. Querceta Saturday mornings Piazza dei Ciompi Flea Market 9am to 7.30pm daily

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Where to Stay in LuccaGrapevine recently conducted an informal survey among foreign residents and visitors regarding local bed and breakfasts and hotels.

Here are some that received positive comments. The listing is not in any special order.

1. 16. Via del Duomo 3, 0583 955813, [email protected]). Via della Cavallerizza 12, 0583 48477, [email protected] 17. Via A. Mordini 63, 0583 403228, [email protected]

2. Via del Fosso 26, 0583 47615, 18. Via della Zecca 33, 0583 496665, [email protected] [email protected]

3. Via Fillungo 12, 0583 493634, [email protected] 19. Corso Garibaldi 19, 0583 464218, [email protected]. Via S. Anastasio 23, 0583 440275, [email protected]

20. Via S. Giustina 30, 0583 587964, 5. Via S. Paolino 103, 0583 317446,

[email protected]@sanlucapalace.com

21. Via Angelo Custode 16, 0583 440170, 6. Via S. Giustina 48, 0583 583571, [email protected]@hotelpalazzoalexander.it

22. Corte Portici 16, 0583 490748, 7. Via del Anfiteatro 25, 338 3707483, [email protected]@tin.it8. Via Angeli 23, 0583 469204,

[email protected] 23. Via della Polveriera 6, 338 5880982, 9. Piazza San Pietro Somaldi 4, 0583 469049, [email protected]

[email protected] 24. Via Molinetto 11, 0583 467795, [email protected]. Piazza San Pietro Somaldi 5, 0583 48427,

[email protected] THE WALLS

11. Via Michele Rosi 93, 339 6328832, 25. Via S. Marco 368, 0583 495010,

[email protected]@hotelsanmarcolucca.com

12. Via Galli Tassi 85, 0583 53579, [email protected]. Via Romana 1247, 0583 4991, 13. Via di Poggio 9, 0583 55421, [email protected]

[email protected]. Vicolo delle Ventaglie 2, 0583 464175, [email protected]. Via Pisana Trav. II 74, Santa Anna, 0583 311022, 15. Via della Dogana 9, 0583 469181,

[email protected]@albergosanmartino.it

Youth Hostel, Ostello San Frediano B & B Il Duomo.

B & B La Magnolia.Hotel Ilaria + Residenza dell’Alba. B & B La Gemma di Elena.

Hotel La Luna. Relais Inn Lucca.Hotel Noblesse.

B & B Petit Maison Sainte Justine.San Luca Palace Hotel.

B & B La Colonna.Hotel Palazzo Alexander.

Residenza Centro Storico.Anfiteatro B & B.

Hotel Alla Corte degli Angeli.

B & B Le Violette.B & B Corte dei Nobili.

Hotel Diana.B & B Dimora dei Guelfi.

B & B Casa San Jacopo al Giardino.Hotel San Marco.

B & B Caterina.Grand Hotel Guinigi (Best Western).Piccolo Hotel Puccini.

B & B La Romea.Affittacamere Stella. Hotel San Martino.

(good prices, good food, lovely

Porcari

Capannori

Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Sant’Anna di Stazzema

Camaiore

Corsanico (Massarosa)

Tonfano

Torre del Lago

San Rossore Park

PISA26km

Vorno

Gattaiola

San Giuliano Terme

Abetone

Celle dei Puccini(Pescaglia)

Benabbio

Villa Basilica

Pieve a Elici

Tofori

Ponte aMoriano

Camigliano

Barga

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

Lucca: Outside Lucca: 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 94111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 0584 46477 www.ticketone.it 21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 050 941111 or 050 94118836.

2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches. 22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). www.puccinielasualucca.com Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi www.opapisa.it See page17.www. sagramusicalelucchese.com 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.

3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo 24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, www.operadifirenze.itCustode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. Vorno. 0583 971125, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. www.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com www.delloscompiglio.org www.teatroverdionline.it

4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, 25. Ponte a Moriano 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo SpiritoLucca In Musica. 0583 469960, a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, www.accademiadelispiritati.orgwww.associazionemusicalelucchese.it 0583 465320. 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival,

5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, b. Accademia Montegral, Convento 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.orgclosed Mondays and Sundays, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’www.teatrodelgiglo.com 26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.

5b. Teatro San Girolamo, Museum. 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.www.teatrodelgiglio.com 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it

6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio Gemignani Music School. 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML 0583469960, 7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del 28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

Suffragio, www.boccherini.it Compitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival. 8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco 29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it 9. San Michele Church, Pza San Michele 30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi10. San Paolino Church, Via San Paolino Roma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin 11. San Romano Auditorium [email protected] (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757, 12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church Differenti. 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. 14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to

museum. [email protected], www.operabarga.it Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900, 15. Botanical Garden concerts, 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], www.fondazionecerratell.it

www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. www.bargajazz.it 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music 16. San Martino (Duomo) 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 4 17. Amphitheatre Jazz, [email protected] Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it

www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See www.belcantoinbarga.com 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini article in June Grapevine. 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it

18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto 33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino Festival, www.iamitalia.com 51. Badia di Camaiore Organ Festival,

33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND Tuscany’s GRAPE

Florence 90km

Montecarlo 20km

Montecatini Terme

Altopascio

Prato

50

21

48

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37,38,39

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine April 2017 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDEVINE Magazine

Lucca: Around Lucca: S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L.

Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also A. San Francesco Church Complex. L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584 AA. ex Casa del Boia. 67. www.delloscompiglio.org 757443.B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via M1. Montecarlo: Pasquinelli Gallery, Via Roma.

SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. (www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center &

Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.Pisa:photography. M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52.T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San N. Ponte a Serraglio: Grapevine Cultural Assoc. T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it Martino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it La Rondine Gallery, Via V. Emanuele. T3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S. D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 O. Ponte a Moriano

Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767. 450278. Barga: T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583 P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18.

Lugarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060. 467205. P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa.

F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it.490530, [email protected], P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo

Prato:www.museocattedrale.lucca.it dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music.

U. Palazzo Pretorio. G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.

www.palazzopretorio.prato.itH1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. P4. Fondazione Ricci, Via Roma 20.

V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara. H2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 Versilia: www.museodeltessuto.it

55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza V V. Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.I1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Duomo. 0584 795268.I2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29. Florence:J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43. W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.orgJ2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. Corso Garibaldi 116. X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60.

New exhibition space. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & www.unannodarte.itJ3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.it Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.it

Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Q5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. YY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2. 10am to 5pm www.domusromana.it Forte dei Marmi: Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.it

K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584 Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi. KK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13. 280292, www.villabertelli.it Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10.

www.guccimuseo.comto midnight.

Tonfano

Florence 90km

Prato

Capannori

San Gennaro

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Seravezza

Camaiore

Abetone

Barga

Ponte a Moriano

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

AAA

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Art Exhibition Venues from A to Z

Montecarlo 20km

Porcari14km

Tassignano

Torre del Lago

Vecchiano

PISA 26km Vorno

DF

LT

SS W,X,Y,YY,Z1,Z2,Z3,Z4

H1

M1M2

M3

M4

H2

Capannori

San Giuliano Terme


9 4.30pm, Pescaglia (Vetriano), Teatro di Vetriano. La Dora e Antò ... arieccoli!!! Tel. 0583 358131, www.fondoambiente.it

1610.30am, Borgo a Mozzano, Convento dell’Angelo. Easter Mass with Maestro Gustav Kuhn’s Accademia di Montegral. Vivaldi, Handel, Franck, Rossini, Bizet, Bach, Mozart, Puccini. Tel. 0583 406300 for information about the shuttle bus (from 10am with return at 11.30am). www.montegral.com/[email protected]

17

189.15pm, Lucca, Chiesa dell’Alba. Boccherini Guitar Festival, Echoes of Spain.

1910.30am, Lucca, Suffragio Auditorium, Musica Ragazzi. Presenting Giacomo Puccini. Matteo Campetti (baritone) & Stefano Teani (piano). Associazione Musicale Lucchese.

24

53 49.45am, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Il Tamburo Magico, produced by L. Da Vinci Scuola Media students, music by Marco Cattani. www.teatrodelgiglio.it

Sunday 2

4pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Il Tamburo Magico, produced

by L. Da Vinci Scuola Media students, music by Marco

Cattani. www.teatrodelgiglio.it

26Lucca Dance Meeting throughout the Centro Storico. 26 to 30 April. www.aed.dance

Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico school theatre gathering. Until 7 May with final event on 16 May. www.teatroscuola.it

254.30pm, Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico. Junior Ballet. Serata Neoclassica.

1210 11

236pm, Bagni di Lucca, English Library, Spring Jazz Concert. Greta Mirall Quartet Homage to Duke Ellington. € 5 voluntary contribution to the English cemetery maintenance fund. Reservations at tel. 0583 87619, 335 5821084.

30

Wed Mon Tues Sunday

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

Music & TheatreApril 2017

Eleanora Abbagnato

Convento

dell’

Angelo

27 28 295.30pm, Lucca, Oratorio di San Giuseppe. Concert for Theremin & Piano by Thorwald Jorgensen. Music by Cluster members Andrea Benedetti, Francesco Cipriano, Arduino Gottardo & transcriptions for theremin.

6pm, Lucca, Auditorium del Suffragio. Boccherini Youth Guitar Orchestra in Danza del Mondo.

6

14

5pm, Lucca, Auditorium del Suffragio. Lucca Animando Concert. Pergolesi’s Stabat Mater for Venerdì Santo. Director Silvano Pieruccini. www.animandolucca.it

7 8

4pm, Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca Auditorium. Cluster presents a cd by Federica Gennai (voice) & Filippo Cosentino (guitar), entitled Come Hell or High Water. Info: 347 1856883.

9pm, Ponte a Moriano, Teatro Nieri. Penasaci Giacomino by Luigi Pirandello.

2010.30am, Lucca, Casermetta di San Colombano, Musica Ragazzi. Presenting Giacomo Puccini. Matteo Campetti (baritone) & Stefano Teani (piano). Associazione Musicale Lucchese.

Friday Saturday Thu

To locate the venues, see the map and the list above.

The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information

before setting off.

21 225.30pm, Lucca, Oratorio di San Giuseppe. Concert in honor of Claudio Boncompagni with pianist Ilaria Baldaccini. Music composed by Arduino Gottardo & Giorgio Lazzarini. Associazione Cluster.

9pm, Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Vorno. SPE. Homage to Giorgio Battistelli, concert Aphrodite. Info: 0583 971125. www.delloscompiglio.org

15

Puccinielasualucca for its spring/summer season (1 offers daily concerts

April to 31 October)

at the Church of San Giovanni at 7pm. Tickets are sold at the door.

[email protected]

or call 340 8106042

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

Coming Up/Ongoing (alternative rock from Leicester, UK), 29 July Panariello, Conti & Pieraccini.AML Musica Ragazzi, 6 May 6pm. Baluardo San Colombano. Io e Luigi Veri Amici.

Lucca Classica Festival, 4/5/6/7 May. Hundreds of musicians performing throughout Cluster, 6 May 5.30pm, Fondazione Banca del Monte Auditorium, Etymos Lucca. See Grapevine article on page 8 & poster on page 28. Ensemble.

Lucca Classica Premio for Eleonora Abbagnato (ballerina of the Paris Opera). Lucca Summer Festival (partial list): 14 June (from Berkeley, CA) Green Day’s Teatro del Giglio, 6 May 9pm. Revolution Radio Tour with punk rockers Rancid, 4 July rock band Imagine Dragons, Lucca, Animando concert.19 May, www.animandolucca.it9 July Ennio Morricone, 11 July LP & Rag ‘n’ Bone Man, 15 July Robbie Williams, 21 Lucca, Sagra Musicale Lucchese, 7 May to 17 June. Director Luca Bacci. July Il Volo, 22 July Macklemore & Ryan Lewis from Seattle, 23 July Kasabian www.sagramusicalelucchese.com

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ONGOING EXHIBITIONS:

Lucca,

Pietrasanta,

Lucca,

Forte dei Marmi,

Lucca,

Lucca, Seravezza,

smaller sculptures. Sales of the works will benefit the Italian earthquake victims. Info: 333 7355237, 329 7478694. Until 20 August 2017.

Fondazione Antica Zecca, Casermetta San Donato. Printing from its origins to the dawn of the Renaissance, incunaboli & early writings from the Diocesan Library plus Gerardo Mercatore’s globes (terrestrial 1531, celestial 1551). Eighty 15th-16th century volumes rich in engravings & miniatures. 7 Jan. to 27 May. At Piazza Duomo a peperoncino 16 meters high is part of a collection of

100 sculptures & paintings by Giuseppe Carta, Orti in Germinazione, extending as Lu.C.C.A. Museum, Via della Fratta 36. Warhol far as the Forte dei Marmi pier. Until 11 June.

vs. Gartel. Hyp Pop. Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 7pm. Until 18 June. 9 See article in March Grapevine. 9 locations throughout the town center and onto the pier. Made in

Forte 1.0, Percorsi d’Arte e di Luce. Artists: Gustavo Aceves, Thomas Lange, Casermetta San Martino. Le stanze del sogno, Matteo Nasini, Antonio Barbieri, Valentina Palazzari, Caterina Tosoni, Oliviero

videos & costumes from Teatro del Carretto. Tuesday to Rainaldi, Helidon Xhixha, Gregorio Botta. Information (tourist office): 0584 280292, Sundays 10am to 6pm. Until 5 November 2017. 0584 280253. 18 February to 31 May 2017.

Botanical Garden. Melodia Arte Natura by Roman sculptor Roberto Palazzo Mediceo. Spacearth Satellite Photography. 1 April to 14 May.Giansanti. 5 monumental sculptures in wood, bronze & ceramic raku & other

Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio SPE. Sobra la sangre by Teresa Margolles. Until 25 June. Tel. 0583 971125. Also, Video Installation round midnight/ritratti by Cecilia Bertoni. Until 25 June. Tel. 0583 971125.

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

9LAST DAY: Certaldo (Firenze), Palazzo Pretorio, Via Rivellino 1. Per Certaldo, photographic exhibition by Giancarlo Bartalini. Daily 9.30am to 1.30pm & 2.30pm to 4.30pm. Closed Tuesdays. Tel. 0571 661219, www.comune.certaldo.fi.it

10LAST DAY: Lucca, BessArte, Via S. Andrea 48. Tempo di Primavera, Tempo d’Autunno by Michele Lovi.

24

25Lucca, LAST DAY:

Villa Bottini. Fausto Maria Liberatore, Retrospective. 11am to 7pm (closed Mondays).

2623

LAST DAY: Lucca, Lucca Center of Contemporary Art. Studies from the breathing in the void series by American artist Walter Erra Hubert. Hours: 10am to 7pm (closed Mondays). Tel. 0583 492180.

17Seravezza,

Lucca,

Florence,

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Palazzo Mediceo. Photography.

Fondazione Ragghianti, Via San Micheletto 3. A Story of Art, historical documents & photos of the Foundation.

Largo Bargellino. Sacrario della Basilica di Santa Croce, G7Arte. With Eva Moosbrugger, Romolo Del Deo, Yasumichi Nakagawa, Gary Barnhart, Louise Giblin, Jean Pierre Rousset, Pasquale Celona.

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Wed TuesMon Sunday

Exhibitions, April 2017

2OPENING DAY:

OPENING DAY:

Santo Stefano al Ponte (Florence).

Lucca,

Klimt Experience. 10am to 7pm. Until 2 April 2017. Tel. 055 217418, klimtexperience.com

Fondazione Banca del Monte, Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Piazza San Martino 7. Arturo Carmassi. Tuesdays to Sundays 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Until 4 June. See article on page 5.

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To locate the venues, see the map & list on the back of this calendar

Livorno, Villa Mimbelli Granai, Via San Jacopo in Acquaviva. Ebrei in Toscana, itinerant exhibit shown at Palazzo Medici Riccardi (Florence) earlier this year.

Multimedia, with 70 bilingual panels. Images & stories of 20th century Jewish life. Hours: 10am to 1pm, 4pm to 7pm daily (except 3,10 & 24 April). Until 1 May.

Udine,

Cremona, Pescia,

Genoa,

Pistoia,Vicenza,

Nuoro

Prato, (Carmignano, loc. Bacchereto).

Castello di Udine. L’offensiva di carta. La Grande Guerra (1914-1918) illustrata, from the Luxardo collection to contemporary cartoons. 1 April 2017 to 7 January 2018.

Museo del Violino. Life & Magnum. The photojournalism that made Pinocchio Park, Via San Gennaro, 3. Pinocchio emerges from the Fairy history. 4 March to 11 June.Tale, 32 photographs by Aldo Fallai. Saturdays & Sundays 10am to sundown. Until 1

Palazzo della Meridiana, Salita San Francesco 4. Sinibaldo Scorza (1589-May 2017. Tel. 057 2429613, www.pinocchio.it1631), Fables & Nature at the Dawn of the Baroque. 10 Feb. to 4 June 2017. Tel. 010 2541996, www.palazzodellameridiana.itFondazione Marino Marini, Corso Silvano Fedi 30. I

Contrà Porti 11, Palladio Museum, Andrea Palladio Centro Internazionale Measure Time by How a Body Sways by painter John Studi Architettura. Palladio, Il mistero del volto. Antonio Canova’s marble bust of Vander. Until 14 May 2017.Palladio (a new acquisition of the museum). 3 Dec. 2016 to 4 June 2017.

(Sardinia), MAN Museum, Via Satta 27. Topographies (1917-1991), by photographer Berenice Abbott. Abbott was born in Ohio in 1898 & moved to New Complesso di Santa York in 1918. In contact with Sylvia Beach, Duchamp & Man Ray, she photographed Maria Assunta, Via Santa Maria 6. Antiche Maioliche di Bacchereto, 1300s to famous people such as Jean Cocteau, James Joyce, Max Ernst & André Gide. In 1500s. Saturdays/ Sundays 11am to 1pm & 4pm to 7pm. Until 8 October 2017.1940 she became picture editor for Science Illustrated. Until 21 May.

WORTH THE TRIP ...

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

27

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1Pescia,

8Forte dei Marmi

OPENING:

OPENING:

OPENING:

Palazzo del Podestà, Piazza del Palagio, 7. Quattordicidiciotto (’14-’18) by Paolo Baratella. Apocalyptical images of the war. Inauguration 6pm. Closing date 30 April 2017.

Corso Garibaldi 129, L’Artificio Arti Applicate. Pesce d’Aprile by Valente Taddei. Inauguration 5.30pm. Closing 29 April 2017.

Museum of Satire. Condoniamo il futuro (Let’s forgive the future). The bittersweet truths of Fabio Magnasciutti. 130 satirical & ironic drawings. Hours: 4pm to 8pm. Closed Mondays to Thursdays. Tel. 0584 280262, 0584 787251. Until 18 June.

Lucca,

,

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29

Saturday Thu

22

Friday

Exhibitions,

April 2017

Lucca Contemporary Art Fair.Sorbano del Giudice, Polo Fiere.

5 to 8 May. www.luccaartfair.it

Fausto

Maria L

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Carm

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Magnasciu

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Taddei


HOLIDAYS, TRADITIONS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS

CHILDREN

CINEMA

CONFERENCES

COMING UP

MEET-UP GROUPS

In 1944 this was the site of an important conflict between the Grapevine conversation group at Cantine Bernardini (Piazza Germans & the Allies & the village is a symbol of the del Suffragio) Thursdays at 8.15pm. Come for a drink or dinner,

THROUGHOUT ITALY Resistence. At 10am, meet at Piazzale Matteotti (in front of board games, English & Italian conversation. Call 333 9 April, Palm Sunday Pasticceria Lucchesi, Barga). The walk is along an old mule 8617962.

track, with lunch at 1pm at the Associazione Ricreativa 16 April, Easter SundaySommocolonia. 4km, one hour walk, dogs welcome on leash.17 April, Pasquetta. Traditionally, a day in the countryside. Grapevine Labor Day Thai lunch at Cantina di Carignano

25 April 1945, Liberation. Italians were freed from Fascism & with Chef Paolo Monti. May 1st at 12.30. See page 19 for Carrara Irish Fair, 7/8/9 April. Fri-Sat 6pm to 2am, Sun noon to Nazis at the end of World War II. details.midnight. 10 euros. Festivalirlandese.netItaly entered World War I in April 1916, 102 years ago. See arti-

cle in March 2015 Grapevine. Italian language social group “4 chiacchiere” at LuccaLibri in Viale R. Margherita 137, with Marina, Thursdays at 4.30pm. €5

Birthdays: 13 April 1808, Antonio Meucci, inventor of the tele- plus drink. phone. His museum is in Lucca’s Via Guinigi. 15 April 1452, Leonardo Da Vinci (visit the village of Vinci near Empoli). 25 Mondays 4pm international conversation group at Osteria dello April 1874, Guglielmo Marconi, inventor of wireless telegraph. Stellario in Piazza San Francesco, Lucca.

Valdottavo (Borgo a Mozzano), Teatro Colombo weekly labs for discovering the theatre, creativity, physical expression. 3 Oct. 2016 until 30 June 2017. Children 3 to 6, 7 to 11, 12 to 16. Also adult group. Call 368 453795. [email protected] VerdeMura garden show. 31 March to 2 April. On the Lucca www.teatrocolombo.itWalls near Piazza Santa Maria. Friday noon to 7pm, Sat-

Sunday 9.30am to 7pm. www.verdemura.itDeadline for submissions to the 500th anniversary Ariosto competition for Italian schools is 29 April 2017. Sponsored by Lucca 10 & 11 April will host the foreign ministers of the G7: the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Town of Castelnuovo USA, Canada, UK, Japan, Germany, France & Italy.Garfagnana & other local & regional entities. Project coordinator Pier Paolo Angelini. [email protected], Via San Paolino, Piazza Cittadella, Via di Poggio &

Piazza dei Cocomeri. Arte & Ingegno handicrafts fair. 22-23 April. http://arteingegnoinspaolino.jimdo.com

Lucca Tattoo Expo, Polo Fiere. 21-22-23 April.www.luccatattooexpo.it

Gran Premio Automobilistico Terre di Canossa. International Vintage Car Race. Emilia-Liguria-Toscana 20 to 23 April. On Lucca’s Walls 22 April at 12.45.www.granpremioterredicanossa.it

Lucca, Piazza San Frediano, Piazza Scalpellini, Anfiteatro, Via Fillungo. Santa Zita flower show, 22 to 27 April. It’s not just flowers on display, also gift items & foods.

Lucca Dance Meeting throughout the Centro Storico. 26 to 30 April. www.aed.dance

Fornoli (Bagni di Lucca) Circuit of the Thermal Hills, 41st edition. 2 to 20 km distances. Beginning 2 April at 7.30/8.30am. € 2.50. Tel. 349 6953500.www.prolocobagnidilucca.it

Monte Forato (Fabbriche di Vergemoli), 2 April. Excursion be-ginning at 9.15 at Fornovolasco. Medium difficulty. 6 hours, Firenze, Cinema Odeon at Palazzo Strozzi. Original language 9.5 km. €15 per person. Reservation required. Tel. Stefano films with Italian subtitles. www.odeonfirenze.com

Lucca, Centro Culturale Agorà, Piazza dei Servi. L’Agorà della 320 267 2533, [email protected]: Calendar for 2017 (lectures in Italian, 5.30pm): 22 Apr.,

Cinema Astra 8 April. Il Sogno d’Oro, short film produced by Il L’emigrazione umana dentro e fuori dall’Africa: una prospettiva Marlia, starting at the Farmers’ Market on 30 April (enroll 28-

Sorriso di Stefano ONLUS, directed by Simone Rabassini in col-genetica, by Luca Pagani. 20 May, Nanotecnologie by 29 April), 41st annual Marlia Run (10 km) & Marcia delle

laboration with the clients of Dr. Marchi (director of Lucca men-Alessandro Tredicucci. 10 June, Lo spreco alimentare by Maria Ville (hiking from villa to villa). Choose your distance: 3-5-7-

tal health center) & Carla Nolledi of AML, approaching Puccini’s Rosaria Vergara. Tel. 0583 445716. www.agoradellascienza.it 10-16-20-28 km walks. [email protected], tel. 377 288

life & places in a very special way. See article on page 4.6423, www.marciadelleville.it

Pisa, Palazzo Blu Auditorium, conferences.(all at 5pm). On 6 April, when (in 1917) the USA declared war against Germany, Parco dell’Orecchiella (San Romano in Garfagnana), 29 April Prof. Daniele Menozzi of the Scuola Normale di Pisa will speak to 1 May. Reservations by 19 April. Trekking with overnight at

Lucca Contemporary Art Fair, 5 to 8 May.on 1917, The Dawn of the American Century? This will be fol-the Park. €40 deposit, meals + overnights approx. € 100. lowed by: on 11 May by Daniele Menozzi speaking on L’inutile [email protected]

Lucca half-marathon, 7 May, leaves at 9am from Porta Elisa strage. 26 Oct., Ettore Cinnella on Guerra, rivoluzione, sogni on the Walls. [email protected] pace. 16 Nov., Arturo Marzano, La Dichiarazione Balfour. Lago di Pontecosi (Pieve Fosciana), Pasquetta (Easter

130 seats are available. Please arrive 30 minutes before the lec-Monday) 17 April at noon. Lunch at the lake with booths selling 1000 Miglia, vintage car race Brescia-Rome-Brescia. 18 to 21 ture. Tel. 050 2204650. info@2204650, [email protected]& displaying various products. The meal includes lasagne, May.grilled meats, fried potatoes, cold plate, pasimata (Easter

sweet bread), with pastries & pizza in the afternoon. Reserve at Le Fiorite del Corpus Domini. Flower-paved streets for the re-347 3606624. ligious processions, May to June in Camaiore, Colle di Book Club meetings at Da Francesco Restaurant (near the

train station), last Wednesday of each month at 8pm. Compito, Camigliano. Sommocolonia (Barga). 25 April, Passeggiata della libertà.

Collodi, Pinocchio Esce dalla Fiaba (Pinocchio emerges from the tale). From 16 Sept. 2016 to 1 May 2017.

LUCCA AND SURROUNDING TOWNS

Lucca Film Festival & Europa Cinema. 14 March to 1 May.

Projections, displays, conferences, performances. The Other

Side of Hope by Aki Kaurismaki will inaugurate the festival (2 April 8.30pm, Cinema Astra). Actor Willem Defoe will present

his film The Headhunter’s Calling (in Italian, Quando un pa-

dre), on 7 April 10.30am at Teatro del Giglio, & will receive a prize for his career at the Astra on 8 April. Between Lucca & Viareggio, the red carpet guests will include Oliver Stone, who

has chosen his film Alexander (the Great) to be shown at the

Astra on 7 April. See also a film about the Garfagnana, The

Little Hours by Jeff Baena (Canada/USA 2017), made with the Florence, Harold Acton Library, Palazzo Lanfredini. Lectures support of Il Ciocco Resort & Alessandro Bertolucci (5 April 8.30 5 & 12 April at 6 pm. See details in March Grapevine.pm, Cinema Astra), also the film Danish sculptors at

Pietrasanta by Jacob Jorgensen (4 April 10.30pm, Cinema Centrale). For more information consult the website: www.luccafilmfestival.it

Effetto Cinema Notte, Lucca 8 April, when all of the historic center becomes a huge open-air film set. Five areas involved: Cult Movie (south), Command & Conquer (Piazza San Giusto), Music (Pizza San Michele & surrounding), 80s (central), Fairytales (east, Piazza San Francesco). Among the films cho-

sen for the 42 locales (restaurants, pubs, etc.) are hits like La

La Land and classics like Trainspotting, La Dolce Vita, Pulp

Fiction, Roger Rabbit, Mulan, etc. After midnight, the after-party takes place at Caffetteria San [email protected]

CineClub at Bagni di Lucca. All films 9.15pm at the Biblioteca Comunale. Tel. 0583 87619, 335 5821084.

Viareggio, Dante Fridays at the Istituto di Istruzione Superiore Galilei-Artiglio, Villa Argentina. 20 Jan. to 28 April.

Lucca, Biblioteca Statale, Via S. Maria Corteorlandini 12, Saloni Monumentali. A series of reflections (all at 5pm) on the value of the Latin language today, in collaboration with Amici del Machiavelli & the Lucca Committee of the Dante Alighieri Society. 30 March: Alessandro Russo, Che vuol ch’io faccia del suo latinorum? 13 April: Lucia Galli, Cedam arma linguae, Qualche considerazione sulla retorica ciceroniana. 27 April: Alessandro Russo, Il glamour della grammatica. 11 May: Lucia Galli, Cicerone e i peccati di gioventù: il discorso in difesa di Marco Celio.

Lucca, Palazzo Sani in Via Fillungo. Meeting of the Association 50&Più. President Antonio Fanucchi. Brindisi 3 April at 4pm in the Loggia. Exhibition by 50&Più University Chorus directed by Maestro Polidori (Stefano Galli, piano). Open to all.


Clues in English have Italian answers. Clues in Italian have English answers.

ACROSS 56. Indizio (4) 16. Noah is ski-ing (3,4) 47. Chiedere (3)1. Longest Italian word (26) 58. Alfabeto (26) 17. Hero (4) 49. Stream (3)18. Emù (4) 22. Prussico (7) 50. Assortimento (3)19. There (2) DOWN 23. Try (7) 52. Crudo (3)20. Spirale (5) 1. Pope (4) 25. e (3) 54. __ Pacino (2)21. Saltar su (3,2) 2. Vigneto (3) 27. Zerbino (3) 57. N greca; Greek N (2)24. Poppies (8) 3. e.g. (2) 30. o (2)26. Lachrymatory (11) 4. Diavoletto (3) 33. Panino morbido (3)28. Hands (4) 5. You love (2,3) 34. Me (2)29. Rho (2) 6. Expanders (9) 35. Capital gains tax on property 31. Un (2) 7. Obvious (5) (initials.) (5)32. Armoured car (24) 8. Menzogna (3) 36. Uno zoppicamento (1,4)40. Goes (2) 9. Camicia (5) 37. Ottenere (3)41. Dentro (2) 10. If (2) 38. Voci, articolo (5)42. Per paura che (4) 11. Malato (3) 39. Complesso svedese/ 44. That's enough for now (5,3,3) 12. My (fem)(3) Swedish pop group (4)48. Verità (8) 13. Più in alto (Latino) (9) 43. Effervescenza (4)51. Beams (5) 14. You dare (3) 45. Uovo (3)53. I trimmed (5) 15. Il più grande degli insettivori, 46. Governo britannico 55. Sono (forma contratta) (2) echinosorex gymnurus (4,3) dell'India (3)

Cruciword by Diccon Masterman

Not for April Fools!

n this new version of Prof. Renzo Cresti's book, Richard Wagner, la I poetica del puro umano, the author

narrates the adventurous life of Wagner, focusing on places he lived, such as Paris, Dresden, Zurich, Tribschen and Bayreuth, and giving special attention to his visits to Italy. Cresti discusses Wagner's relationships with important musicians, including Berlioz, Liszt, Chopin, Mendelssohn, the Schumanns and Rossini, and the influence of philosophers such as Feuerbach, Bakunin, Schopenhauer and Nietzsche.

This is a worthy challenge (700 pages) for improving Italian language skills, or a good tool for scholars who appreciate complete annotations and bibliography. Otherwise, you can order the shorter English language edition (236 pages) which was published in 2012. www.ibs.it

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March solution

M U F S C L F

A S S U R D O A B U S O

D E U M M N L

A R R E T R A T I A L L

S T R C T I

A R C H I A M E N I T A

R V D C

H E A V E N S I D I O T

A C N C F H

T E K D I A L O G A R E

T E O M R C B

E R R O L B I Z A R R E

R S O I A O S

Grapevine Labor Day Thai LunchMay 1st at Cantina di Carignanowith Chef Paolo Monti

Antipasto: glass noodle salad or involtini primavera

Primi: Phad Thai (tagliatelle di riso with shrimp, eggs, sprouts & peanuts), Tom Yum Khung hot & sour shrimp soup, or Tom Kha Gai coconut soup with chicken

Secondi: Gai phed ma muang (chicken with cashew nuts), Kaeng Khiaw waan gai (green curry), or Panaeng gai (red curry with peanuts)

Dolce: Sticky rice with coconut & mango

Including wine and coffee, € 24. Discount € 2 for Grapevine subscribers & contributors.

Please reserve with Grapevine by 20 April. Car-pooling available. Call 333 8617962 or email [email protected]


Have Some Madeira, My Dear!

hard to express in mere words the unbelievable terrain, views and sheer beauty of this point stretched out into the Atlantic Ocean. A must-do if your knees can handle it! Other towns on the east side worth visiting are Machico, the oldest village on the island, Santa Cruz (airport location), Santana and Porto da Cruz. In Santo da Serra, my son loved the very challenging 27-hole golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones, with

since the 1850s to transport people and crop its breathtaking views of the coastline. There harvests up and down the steep streets. Two are also unlimited water sports. Depending men ride on the back and manage the sled on the season, you can enjoy fishing, diving, as it slides down the smooth, steep, winding whale watching and sailing. streets. So much fun!! After this, you can Throughout the area you will find many take a cab or bus or walk the final two great restaurants. Skewered meat served at kilometers down the hill. the table and scabbard fish with banana are

I highly recommend renting a car to the most popular dishes, and both are explore the island. Be advised they are all delicious. A local spot called Central manual shift, unless you make a special Restaurant offers meats sliced Brazilian request. The roads are in great shape and style. We were lucky to get a last-minute well marked. All the small towns along the reservation at the two-star restaurant called coasts are worth a quick visit; each one is Il Gallo D'Oro. An incredible experience, unique and charming. Visit the museums pricey but well worth it. I recommend also and sugar cane mills; taste the brandy; sit Chalet Vincente, Uva, and Beef and Wines. on the beach. Most of the coastal towns For the best drink assortment and have pebble beaches, but Calhetas Beach presentation try Flair Bar. But the most fun on the west side has beautiful, soft, and bare bones cheap is a local bar: Black & caramel-colored sand brought in from White Old Town Bar. The most lively Morocco. This beach is between two nightclub is the Copacabana.Savoy-owned hotels, with the Savoy We caught February's Carnival parade Saccharum the higher end and more and celebration in Funchal, which was spectacular of the two. The west side of the highly entertaining. island tends to be a bit warmer, with Ponta If you go during the summer months, do Sol being the warmest beach town. take the three-hour boat ride over to Porto

If you aren't afraid of heights, you can Santo and enjoy nine kilometers of sandy destination for cruise ships, enjoy Cabo Girão in Câmara de Lobos. It beaches, peace and solitude. This is a small water sports enthusiasts, has a glass-bottomed lookout over a 580 island with much flatter terrain to navigate, MMdivers and hikers. Almost meter high cliff, one of the highest in only 42 square kilometers. You can rent a

half of the inhabitants live in Funchal, Europe. The village also has the largest bike and explore the entire island. The which is divided in half between Old Town vineyard in Madeira and is known to have 5,000 inhabitants still live in traditional and New Town. The difference between the best poncha on the island. This drink houses. Porto Santo was home to the two is immediately apparent. Huge made from lemon, honey and cane sugar Christopher Columbus prior to his hotels and beaches are on the new side, spirit is interesting. expeditions to the New World (his home is along with fancier restaurants, nightclubs You can cut through the middle of the now a museum).and the small casino. The Old Town island on the expressway from Ribeira Madeira Island is a fascinating vaca-contains most of the area's charm and Brava to São Vincente. Visit São Vincente's tion destination. Portugal in general is a authenticity. volcanic caves, drive past the thatched-roof country rich in tradition, history, culture,

From the waterfront, you can take the homes in Seixal, and try the relaxing pools pride, passion, beauty and endurance. cable car up to the mountain top at Monte, at Porto Moniz. Totally enjoyable, very welcoming and then take the basket sled down the hill for a Along the southeast side of the island well worth exploring. thrilling two-kilometer ride. These woven near Canical, you can take a rigorous six- Happy travels!baskets on wooden frames have been used mile hike on the Ponta de Sâo Lourenco. It's – by Valencia Wolf

adeira Island is a popular

MADEIRA

� autonomous region annexed by

Portugal in 1418

� 90 minutes by air from Lisbon

� 900 km from Portugal, 600 km from

Morocco

� size of island: 57 km by 23 km

� two-thirds natural, uninhabited forest

� a mind-boggling amount of tunnels,

winding roads and passageways

� rocky volcanic beaches

� population 270,000

� terraced and irrigated for bananas,

sugarcane, grapes, etc.

� local products: cork, wicker,

embroidery, wine, poncha (liquore

made from lemon, honey & sugarcane

spirits) and honeycakes

Via G. Pascoli, 2P - BARGA - LUCCACell. 348 6920242

[email protected]

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Hours Monday 13.30 to 18.00Tuesday to Saturday 8.30 to 18.30

Piazza San Frediano 3 - LuccaTel/fax 0583 467375

[email protected]

trilingual (French, English, Italian), for private & public engagements, lessons.

[email protected]. 333 8617962

HARPIST


um and Dad got a phone call them how happy I am to see them again. Oh from Jerry at about 2 pm on yes, I can! I started wagging my tail and that Thursday 2 March, to say I made my mum very happy. She told Dad Mhad arrived in Lucca and he she thought I had lost a bit of weight. She

was walking me down Via Fillungo. I could would too, if she was confined to a small see Mum in the distance in her old pink space and stressed out with anxiety for puffer running towards me. She had a big almost three days. The calming collar Mum smile on her face. I wasn't sure if I would do put around my neck smelt good, but that's a wag of my tail and give her a big smile, or all it did for me, as I am not easily calmed.just ignore her. Jerry wanted to take a photo of us all

So much has happened since Anthony smiling outside the huge front door, so put me in my business class seat and gave Mum picked me up and we went out into me to the “Jetpets” guy, who placed me in a the daylight while he was busy snapping van and drove off with me from my home in photos and calling out my name. Jerry was Melbourne on Tuesday. That was three very kind to me. I think he is used to days ago. What was happening to me? chauffeuring dogs around. Jerry told them Mum and Dad had left a couple of days that the name “Toto” was very famous, before that with suitcases, and I thought I because it was the name of a well-known would be spending my time with Michele comic in Italy. So, I have a grand name. All I and Anthony until their return from know is, I need some food and a drink of holidays, so I was happy at Wattle Park, water. But first of all, I need some grass so I Melbourne. can get out my pent-up poo!

Where was Dad? I couldn't see him We waved goodbye to Jerry and the behind Mum. He was probably fussing three of us set off down our street, heading around trying to close the door, or get his towards a big green park so I could do my shoes on. Jerry put my business class seat thing. Gosh, my legs are a little wonky, but I down. Thank goodness! While he was walking over the have a lot to see and do. We wandered for a bit along this huge cobblestoned street, all of my water was sloshing around and pathway and I smelled, pooed and wee-d. Mum then decided we making my fur coat all wet, and me too. Jerry was so very kind to needed to return to the apartment to relax. Sounds good to me!me. I liked him. He spoke Italian like my dad and Anthony. Jerry But where is my old home? Nothing smells the same here. It's greeted Mum and Dad and then picked up my seat and carried me all new. We turned back towards my new home in Lucca. Boy, I along towards my new home. need a decent sleep!

Once we got inside, Dad hurriedly opened my door and I – by Sue Perrydecided to wobble out. I thought I would be home in Wattle Park again, after almost three days of being flown half way around the Toto's travel was arranged through Melanie at Jetpets Animal world – first by Qantas to Dubai and then Emirates into Milan Transport, Tullamarine, Victoria, together with their Italian where Jerry picked me up and took me for a three-hour ride in his Agents, Stefano and Jerry from ReloCat Milan, Italy. We sincerely van. But no, there were different smells in this place, and they thank all the staff of Jetpets and their agents for the excellent care were very, very old. of Toto throughout her journey.

Okay, so what is supposed to happen here? Am I staying here? Are Mum and Dad staying here? I wish I could talk to them to tell If only Toto could talk!

Toto Perry Comes to Lucca – A Dog’s Tale

VIA ACQUACALDA 192 (opposite the Cantoni factory), tel 0583/496920. Vast selection of second-hand furniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc. Visit our store on eBay and our page on Facebook.

Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30 CLOSED MONDAY www.mercatinousatolucca.it On-line sales

House clearance - Removals.

bout four years ago I or sometimes random chords. It fell in love with a little was calming. red ukulele in the One day two years later, A window of a music Lorenzo called and said there was

store on Corso Garibaldi in Lucca. going to be a little ukulele festival I had no idea how to play one, but in Lucca, and maybe I could do a it was so cute and non-threatening song. I have serious stage fright, with its cheerful color, and only so my initial response was to ques-four strings, I thought maybe I tion his sanity. After I stopped could learn to play it. I named it hyperventilating, I thought about Luccalele. it and realized that I was seventy

I don't have a very good his- years old and this was something I tory with musical instruments: had been afraid of all my life. accordion and piano lessons Maybe it was time to get over it. briefly in the '50s and '60s, and I After all, how long could the learned the obligatory three or humiliation actually last: ten four chords on a guitar so I could years, maybe twenty? strum Michael Rowed the Boat I chose a song I figured the Ashore. Since I didn't like to prac- Italians in the audience wouldn't tice, my experience with musical know, then practiced eight hours a instruments was understandably day for two weeks. I performed unsatisfactory. I always felt that live before an open microphone. I something in my life was left didn't die; I didn't faint; I actually unfinished, and the latent desire to had fun. It was a turning point in play an instrument never quite left me. my life. I find I am less afraid to try new things than I was

Serendipitously, a wonderful local professional ukulele before. I have had the joy of “jamming” with friends and their player named Lorenzo Vignando put up fliers advertising guitars, and I have been looking (unsuccessfully) for others lessons in Lucca: four hours a day for three days. They were who want to learn to play, so that we might even perform three nerve-wracking days. We learned four chords and one together. song, and we had to sing and play solo on the last day. If you know someone who wants to fulfil a lifetime desire

At the end of the course, I could play a whole song, even if it to play an instrument, Luccalele and I will be happy to teach was a pathetic effort. After about four months, I was able to you enough to get started playing. You can find us on Le Mura, strum three or four songs. I didn't practice religiously, but I did or by email at [email protected]. play every day. Who knew playing an instrument could be fun? For me it had always been “practice”. But not this time. Mahalo.Luccalele sat by my side on the couch, and I would pick it up – by Dee Shafferand strum multiple times during the day, maybe fifteen minutes, maybe an hour. I would strum while I waited for the coffee to Editor’s note: As a child, in the 1950s Dee lived in Hawaii, brew, while the cookies were in the oven, while I avoided doing where her father served as a Marine. Mahalo is a friendly dishes. Sometimes I would go up on Le Mura to find a quiet thanks from the islands, where the ukulele is a very popular place, where I would strum my repertoire of six or seven songs, instrument.

Luccalele and the Open Mic

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine April 2017 22 Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine April 2017 23

USA are sliding lower on the chart, while Italy has significantly according to wealth, in terms of gross domestic improved since the post-war period!product. In 2012, the country of Bhutan presented a FFnew idea to the UN and World Health Organization:

why not measure happiness? They decided to consider other measures, such as social support, healthy life expectancy, freedom to make life choices, generosity and perceptions of corruption.* With these criteria, the USA descended from 3rd place in 2007 to 19th in 2016. Here is the 2017 ranking:

At the bottom of this scale, we find Chad (224).

In Italy inflation – the rate at which goods and services increase or decrease in cost, and collaterally, purchasing power rises or falls – is measured by the paniere (shopping basket). Each year the ISTAT (Italian Statistics Office) adds or removes items from the paniere based on their surveys. Along with measuring inflation, this is a great indicator of social trends. For example, last year the new items in the basket were vegetable-based beverages, short pants for men, LED bulbs, dust-catcher cloths (Swifters for example), telecommunications services, university housing and tattoos. This year the new items are milk substitutes (such as soy milk), vegan and vegetarian meat substitutes, handcrafted beers, and pulse devices such as smart watches for runners and athletes .

And, at the lowest end of the scale: Grapevine readers, what makes you happy?

– by Norma Jean Bishop

*As a cultural anthropologist in Sinaloa, Mexico, in 1975 I lived with a family who had a grocery store. With my colleagues I conducted a social survey that resulted in an article in the academic journal Applied Anthropology. It was entitled “No Matter What We Asked Them, They Told Us That They Suffered”. Not a very catchy or happy title. In fact, what remains in my memory were the things that made the village women happy: healthiness for their children, clean Another ranking of interest is life expectancy. How water (brought in by cistern truck), and the Saturday night dance in the town

interesting that the highest life expectancy is in the smallest square. Mexico’s economy has surely improved, and I’m glad to see that it is countries (some of them fiscal paradises). And that the UK and high on the Happiness Index, in 25th place.

or many years the world's well-being was measured

The Happiness Index

1. Monaco 14. Italy2. Japan 15. Sweden3. Singapore 18. Canada4. Macao 19. France5. San Marino 20. Norway6. Iceland 21. Spain

9. Switzerland 33. UK43. USA

145. Burkino Faso 152. Rwanda147. Yemen 153. Benin148. Madagascar 154. Afghanistan149. Tanzania 155. Togo150. Liberia 156. Syria151. Guinea 157. Burundi

1. Norway 25. Mexico2. Demark3. Iceland 27. Malta4. Switzerland5. Finland 31. France6. Netherlands7. Canada 48. Italy8. New Zealand 49. Russia9. Australia10. Sweden 51. Japan11. Israel12. Costa Rica 79. China13. Austria14. USA 87. Greece15. Puerto Rico 89. Portugal16. Ireland 97. Bhutan17. Germany 18. Belgium 117. Iraq19. UK 122. India

Ristorante

In the heart of Lucca's Centro Storico, between Piazza San Francesco and Piazza Anfiteatro, you will find the restaurant Ammodonostro. A new, young, friendly eating place where it will be our pleasure to

create and offer you dishes of the highest quality. At lunchtime, there are daily specialities - simple and quick - in addition to the menu. Bookings welcomed.

This restaurant can accommodate individuals on gluten free diets

Via della Fratta 22, 55100 ~ Lucca tel 0583/953828 Open 11.30am-10pm - Closed Tuesday

www.ristoranteammodonostro.it - [email protected]

uscany boasts tens of thousands of hillside farmhouses that enjoy spectacular vistas over the surrounding countryside. The origins of such TThouses can be mainly traced back to the terracing

works undertaken in the 1700s that made the adjacent land workable. This mammoth task that extends for an estimated 9000 kilometres involved painstaking cutting and filling by hand, allowing the farmer to make the land more manageable, host olive trees and vines, control water with open drains and access them via meandering country laneways. works and make sure that the soil stays where it is and that the

None of these efforts could have succeeded without applying a water goes where we want it to go. Nowadays, retaining structures few basic concepts on retaining. Hillsides had lots of stones speckled have become predominantly concrete walls. They work here and there, which were carefully gathered and used to construct reasonably well at retaining, but look horrendous and trap water dry stone walls that retained the tier above while allowing the water behind them. To overcome this problem, these walls get lined with to freely percolate. The absence of stone meant that the stepped tiers fake stone to “beautify” them (or make them look depressingly would follow the natural incline of the soil. In addition to assisting kitsch) and a drainage package is applied behind them to allow cultivation, terracing allowed the farmer to easily manage water water to move freely away and reduce water pressure. runoff and limit unwanted erosion during excessive rainfall. The traditional retaining walls that are still standing after

Two centuries later, we find that many of the terraces are in over 200 years were simple stone walls ... wider at the base, using desperate need of tender loving care and in some cases have large stone if possible, and getting slimmer towards the top. become barely recognisable. When surveying old properties, I Driving around the Tuscan countryside, you'll note that these look at the aerial photograph from the 1950s to give me an insight walls seem to work pretty well. They depend on the interlocking as to how the land was originally farmed, as after the war Italy was of the stones to create a monolithic effect. Unfortunately, the on its knees and still a predominantly agricultural-based econ- people who write the building codes are unable to cope with such omy. Wind the clock forward by 60+ years and the current aerial walls and we see them replaced with concrete retaining walls that photos sometimes reveal a striking contrast: a disheartening blur are more of an exact science, easy to design yet totally alien to the of unrecognizable cultivation, largely overgrown and abandoned, surrounding environment. with housing developments and vast areas of asphalt mixed in for The Tuscan countryside is epitomized by sweeping terraced good measure. hillsides with vines and olives, making the region instantly

Today, Italy is subject to adverse weather conditions that fuel recognizable worldwide and decisively unique. Hopefully, the notorious slope stability issues to be found on the foothills of the somebody will realize that these beautiful stone walls aren't such Apennine mountains. This stability problem gets referred to as a bad solution after all.“hydro-geological” risk, which in layman’s terms is the combination of excess water and unstable ground conditions. In reality, nature is David Collins, an engineer by profession, has lived and worked in simply returning to its “natural” state, so the problem is more to do Tuscany for over 20 years. He manages Our Toscana, providing with the lack of maintenance combined with mindless criteria house surveys, plans & permits and undertaking all kinds of employed when constructing roads and buildings. restoration projects throughout Tuscany. David is author of

Common sense tells us that when we cut a flat segment out of Buying & Restoring in Tuscany – A Practical Guide and lives a hillside, we need to make sure that we won't provoke a slippage near Lucca with his Italian wife and two children. or cause a road or structure located above it to go lopsided. To For information: resolve this problem, we need to do the right kind of retaining [email protected] / www.ourtoscana.com


would be ahead of schedule? Next, I was sent to a parallel corridor where they gave me an X-ray, and by 10 am was back at Sala Gesso so the doctor could write me a prescription for rehabilitation services. After a month stagnating in a cast, the arm still didn't feel ready to move, so I asked for a sling and they gave me a very elegant and new one, freshly opened from its plastic wrappings. By 10.45 I was on my way home, feeling quite liberated indeed!

Hospital, I want to tell you about my cast being removed And a week later I began therapy, with my friend Lucilla at and my latest experience in Italian efficiency. No, I am the San Leonardo clinic.Fnot being ironic.

At 9am I went to the Admissions department and paid my It helps to know one's way around the hospital. I recommend “ticket” of 10 euros. At 9.15 I was at the Sala Gesso, and by 9.30 you make a visit when you are well, so you won't feel lost when my gesso (cast) was removed. A few confused words were you are sick. The only complaint I could make is that my exchanged with the receptionist when I asked if I had time for a telephone didn't work well inside the facility. This could be a cup of coffee before the appointment, since I had arrived before nuisance if I were stuck in a bed in some ward, but being mobile I the scheduled time. Who would guess that both the doctors and I was easily able to find areas that did have phone coverage.

ollowing up on last month's news about San Luca

Retaining Old Tuscany

From the EditorSan Luca Hospital, Follow-Up

MONTEMARCELLO, 15 minutes from LUCCA, Monte San Quirico, possibility of Lerici, apartament facing the lovely town reaching Lucca's historic center on foot. square in Ameglia, with sea views from Small apartment in excellent condition, every window. A departure point for CAI already semi-furnished, with living room, hiking trails overlooking panoramas of Lerici kitchenette, bedroom & bathroom. € 79,000 & the Cinque Terre. € 155,000 Cl G IPE 375, Cl F IPE 172,606 www.remax.it/30811014-18 45 www.remax.it/30811011-259

SANTA MARIA DEL GIUDICE, part of a LUCCA, walking distance from the Walls,

country villa, approx 260 sqm, in an inviting restored apartment with living room, 2 bed-

position & in good condition, with panoramic rooms, bath & 45 sqm terrace. Space for 2 terrace on the roof. Scenic & quiet, facing its cars in garage. Cantina. Can be purchased own property (fruit trees, olives, forest). furnished or unfurnished. € 200,000. Haybarn of 100 sqm to restore. € 320,000. Cl D IPE 128,5 www.remax.it/30811014-21 Cl G IPE 220,6 www.remax.it/30811001-831

UZZANO, 27 km from Lucca, 2 adjacent PESCIA, restored apartment with splendid rustic houses, with pool & 7 hectares of land. panoramic views. Entrance, living room, Perfectly restored & furnished, with a total of kitchen, 3 bedrooms, studio area, 2 baths, 7 bedrooms & 5 bathrooms. Currently used cantina & attic. A good opportunity for a as a bed & breakfast. Ready for generating comfortable home, furnished if you wish. earnings, or to enjoy with one's own family. € 159,000. Cl G IPE 267,7€ 640,000. Cl G IPE 256,89www.remax.it/30811001-829www.remax.it/30811002-399

CASTELVECCHIO DI COMPITO, typical QUIESA, halfway between Lucca & the sea, country house, already restored, with 4 in a building once used for processing rice, bedrooms, spacious enough for a large delightful rebuilt & semi-furnished apartment family. Well cared for & spacious garden, on 3rd floor with elevator. Entrance, with garage & another building furnished livingroom/kitchen, 2 bedrooms, 1 bath. with kitchen & bread oven. € 360,000. Cl F € 165,000. Cl G IPE 267,70IPE 187,56 www.remax.it/30811001-830 www.remax.it/30811001-821


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Ref. 759:

Ref 842:

Ref. 501:

Ref. 336:

Barga, historic Villa Sofia. Stunning views, 10 minutes walk from the old town. 600 sqm total: 3 guest apartments & main house. Large grounds, pool, gated property. 995,000 euro

Bagni di Lucca (Benabbio), 17th century villa (385 sqm) in good condition, with panoramic terrace, walled gardens, olives

& vineyards, garage. 2200 sqm land. 450,000 euro

Gallicano, former village school-house near Grotta del Vento, breathtaking views. 135 sqm, completely renovated. Garden 450 sqm. 180,000 euro

Pian di Coreglia, New apartments with garden or terrace. Parquet floors, under-floor

heating, double glazing. 146 sqm at 255,000 to 295,000 euro;

73 sqm at 130,000 to 150,000 euro

Agenzia Immobiliare Dimore Toscane srl Via Marconi 14, Barga - Lucca - Italy

PISCINEMONOTTOLI

Gabriele Monottoli, Geometra

Tassignano 55012 Capannori, Lucca

via del Marginone n. 129

[email protected]. 328 4655590• Pools, Hydromassage, sauna• Pool construction• Renovation & maintenance• Water treatment• Parts & accessories

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Villina delle Rose near San Macario, 15 km west of Lucca and 15 km east of Camaiore beach, is a beautiful 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom home with terrace. Garden, orchard (esp. cherries) and olives. 100+ sqm house, 20 sqm garage/annex, 1500 sqm land. 235,000 euros. 333 8617962. (Ref. 1114)

335 6777833

via De Gasperi n° 279 • 55100 Lucca

[email protected] • www.ri-struttura.it

painting - varnishing - plastering - resin finishesContact Ranieri Organelli

cell 338 8701365 fax 0583 [email protected]

Tel: 348 3301134

P.Iva 01562310464

GEOMETRA

consulting for property purchases & sales,

documentation, title searches,

plans & projects ...

Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

www.ilcerchioverde.it

Il Cerchio Verde


Professional offices

Elegant, spacious apartment on the ring road of Lucca. Top floor with elevator and terrace. Currently used for professional studios but available in a few months. Re-styling is needed for residential use. 175 sqm, approx 30 sqm terrace, 8 large rooms, 3 of which look onto the priceless panorama of Lucca's walls. Original floor tiles and woodwork, high ceilings. 420,000 euros (negotiable). Contact Grapevine for confidential transactions. (Ref. 1141)

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A short stroll from Lucca’s town center, this spacious, well-kept home in Sant'Anna has 12 rooms (4-6 bedrooms & 3 baths), with a garden & patio on 4 sides. Built in the early 1900s. € 850,000. Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref. 1144)

Country dream home. Large country kitchen with pantry, cozy sitting room, fireplace, study/office, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths downstairs. 3 bedrooms, 3 baths upstairs. Large swimming pool & English garden. 1.5 hectares for strolling thru meadows & forest. Wheelchair access & large parking area. Near Devil's Bridge (Borgo a Mozzano). € 750,000. By owner. Contact Grapevine for confidential transactions. (Ref. 1147)

SAN GINESE. Delightful country property that can be

used as a farmhouse or renovated into an elegant

estate. South-facing. Currently 3 bedroom + large

attic for more space, 1 bath with country kitchen, living

room. Adjacent laundry/workroom with upstairs

storage room & additional cantinas. Total 380 sqm.

On a hill overlooking the Compitese villages & Lago di

Bientina, with approx. 4000 sqm (grapes/olives/fruit-

trees/forest). € 460,000. (Ref. 1165)


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RENTALS

ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSES

Yoga, fitness and cooking courses in the stunning area of Caprese Holiday marketing/booking company. We require extra holiday letting Michelangelo. Accommodation in renovated farmhouse with pool, food properties for the 2017 season in the province of Lucca, email: and all activities included for adults and children. [email protected] (Ref. 1161) tuscany.com Tel 349 5018679.Weekly rentals available. (Ref. 1159)Magazzino for office/studio use in Lucca Centro Storico at ground floor. Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers indi-with bathroom. € 410 per month. Contact Grapevine. vidual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with inter-Spend the Holidays in Florence – Fabulous, spacious one-bedroom apart- preting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. ment in the heart of Santa Croce. First floor, 700 square feet, quiet, sleeps 4, 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)full kitchen/dining, large sofa bed, WI-FI, huge flat screen TV. Available Dec. & Jan. Min 5 night stay, $85/n. Pictures available. No pets. Contact Italian Teacher experienced, qualified, multilin-Grapevine. (Ref. 1164) gual. Bureaucratic solutions, practical services. 339

1639451 Mary O.J. www.internationalfriends.eu(Ref. 1163)

Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)

Spoken English private lessons. Contact Grapevine.

Moving Sale Lucca Whole house contents of quality for sale including antiques, wardrobes, piano, furniture, mirrors, paintings etc. Please email [email protected] for list. (Ref. 1100)

Leonardo in Digital Welcome to my site! It's full of beauty, both expected and unexpected... (Ref. 1133)

Lawyer Daniela Forti. My law firm is located in the beautiful art town of Pietrasanta (Lucca). In 2016 I obtained the international certification TOLES UK TV in Italy, all UK channels from £11.99 a month. 14 day catch-up. Let Higher (Test of Legal English Skills). I can therefore offer my foreign clients us show you how! Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref 1142)not only my legal advice but the possibility of speaking directly in English as

Miss Penny Apple Vintage Tea Party. Catered at your location or, on the well. Cell 348 8098799 www.fortilawyerintuscany.com (Ref. 1113)

2nd & 4th Saturday each month (3.30 pm), at Villa Claudia in Forte dei Marmi. On Facebook or email [email protected] (Ref. 1160)

Wanted: live-out / part-time English mother tongue Nanny to help to take Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. care of one year old child 5 hours per day from Monday to Friday 8 am to 1 Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected] pm. Ilaria 331 3950850. [email protected] (Ref. 1166)

Landscape design & Garden maintenance [email protected] – www.luccalandscape.it Tommaso cell. (+39) 349 284 5399. (Ref. 572)

English lessons with madrelingua T.E.F.L. qualified teacher. Group and private lessons for adults and children. Rita, tel 349 5018679 also available for babysitting (references provided) (Ref. 1158)

Accountant Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349.Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 0583 316636, fax: +39 0583 419451, email [email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)Chiropractor Cynthia Christensen, DC. Esculapio Centro Medico. Viale S. Concordio 665, 55100 Lucca. Cell 340 4142329.Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 492853.Dental Surgeon Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/ German. [email protected] Surgeon Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, [email protected] Counseling: whatever sadness or difficulty is hurting you, why not share it and help it to ease? Contact: Mary Campbell 340 5240334. English or Italian. Studio in Lucca centre. (Ref. 1162)

Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts, Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. email [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict connection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.

Lawyer Enrico Del Buono - Lucca, Via San Marco, 584 - Viareggio, Via IV Novembre, 107 - Montecatini Terme, Via Maona 7. Tel. 0583 587532, cell. 347 2232535, [email protected]

Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing & export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at [email protected] or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)

VARIOUS

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Tel. +39 0583 570838 – +39 334 3601661

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