Going Against The Grain: Grains, Distilling & Grain Spirit

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Going Against The Grain: Grains, Distilling & Grain Spirits by Philip Duff 25 February, 2012

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[NOTE: Slides not synchronised to audio - download the slides as PDF and click through while you listen to the audio! Email me if you know a better solution...] Why does rye bite your ass off? Are grain neutral spirits really neutral? What happens when you add botanicals to grain spirits? Or a flavour? Or stick them in a barrel? Join Irishman Philip Duff for a rollicking mega-tasting ride through the history, flavours, laws and practises of grain based spirits, from genever in the Low Countries to English gin to whiskey, liqueurs and the most international spirit around, vodka.

Transcript of Going Against The Grain: Grains, Distilling & Grain Spirit

Page 1: Going Against The Grain: Grains, Distilling & Grain Spirit

Going Against The Grain:

Grains, Distilling & Grain Spiritsby

Philip Duff

25 February, 2012

Page 2: Going Against The Grain: Grains, Distilling & Grain Spirit

What?

Going Against The Grain

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What?

– Grasses (Family Graminae)

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What?

– Grasses (Family Graminae)– Cereals (Types of Grasses)

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What?

– Grasses (Family Graminae)– Cereals (Types of Grasses) - Grains (fruits of Cereals)

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What?

Going Against The Grain

Corn (Maize) Rice Wheat Barley Sorghum Millet Oats Rye Triticale Buckwheat0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

800

900

Global Grain Production

2007

Metric tons (millions)

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What?

– Hull / husk (barley, Oats)– Bran (Pericarp & Aleurone) - Endosperm - Germ

Going Against The Grain

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What? Corn (Maize)

– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago

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What? Corn (Maize)

– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago– Colombus brought to Europe

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What? Corn (Maize)

– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago– Colombus brought to Europe - Most widely cultivated grain

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What? Corn (Maize)

– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago– Colombus brought to Europe - Most widely cultivated grain - US Subsidies: Feed, HFCS, Ethanol

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What? Corn (Maize)

– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago– Colombus brought to Europe - Most widely cultivated grain - US Subsidies: Feed, HFCS, Ethanol - American Whiskey!

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What? Corn (Maize)

– Mexico, 7-10,000 years ago– Colombus brought to Europe - Most widely cultivated grain - US Subsidies: Feed, HFCS, Ethanol - American Whiskey! - Nixtamalization!

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What? Wheat

– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago

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What? Wheat

– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago– Diploid: Einkorn

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What? Wheat

– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago– Diploid: Einkorn - Tetraploid: Emmer (Italian; Farro)

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What? Wheat

– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago– Diploid: Einkorn - Tetraploid: Emmer (Italian; Farro) Durum (Pastas, 1st Un-hulled Wheat)

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What? Wheat

– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago– Diploid: Einkorn - Tetraploid: Emmer (Italian; Farro) Durum (Pastas, 1st Un-hulled Wheat) - Hexaploid: Modern Bread Wheats

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What? Wheat

– Near east, 12-14,000 yrs ago– Diploid: Einkorn - Tetraploid: Emmer (Italian; Farro) Durum (Pastas, 1st Un-hulled Wheat) - Hexaploid: Modern Bread Wheats - Winter Wheat: Less/No Pesticides

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What? Wheat

– Near east,12-14,000 yrs ago

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What? Barley

– SW Asia

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What? Barley

– SW Asia– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich

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What? Barley

– SW Asia– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich - 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt

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What? Barley

– SW Asia– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich - 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt - France: Hordeum –

Going Against The Grain

(barley)

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What? Barley

– SW Asia– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich - 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt - France: Hordeum – Orge -

Going Against The Grain

(barley) (barley)

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What? Barley

– SW Asia– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich - 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt - France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé –

Going Against The Grain

(barley) (barley) (hulled barley)

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What? Barley

– SW Asia– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich - 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt - France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé – Orgeat (barley) (barley) (hulled barley) - Spain:

Going Against The Grain

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What? Barley

– SW Asia– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich - 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt - France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé – Orgeat (barley) (barley) (hulled barley) - Spain: Orgeat –

Going Against The Grain

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What? Barley

– SW Asia– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich - 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt - France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé – Orgeat (barley) (barley) (hulled barley) - Spain: Orgeat – Horchata (tiger/chufa nuts)

Going Against The Grain

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What? Barley

– SW Asia– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich - 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt - France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé – Orgeat (barley) (barley) (hulled barley) - Spain: Orgeat – Horchata (tiger/chufa nuts) - Tisanes, Robinsons' Barley water

Going Against The Grain

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What? Barley

– SW Asia– Barley = Poor, Wheat = rich - 50% Used as Feed, 33% As Malt - France: Hordeum – Orge - Orge mondé – Orgeat (barley) (barley) (hulled barley) - Spain: Orgeat – Horchata (tiger/chufa nuts) - Tisanes, Robinsons' Barley water

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What? Other Grains

– Oats: Irish, Genever, Etc.– Millet, Fonio, Sorghum - Triticale: Rye/Wheat cross (1800s) - Non-Cereals: Amaranth (Herb)

Quinoa (Beet/spinach) Buckwheat (Rhubarb/Sorrel)

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What? Breakfast!

– The Kelloggs, 1906

Going Against The Grain

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What? Breakfast!

– The Kelloggs, 1906

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What? Breakfast!

– The Kelloggs, 1906

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What? Breakfast!

– The Kelloggs, 1906

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How? Distilling

Step 1: Ferment Beer -Cereal Yeast Water Optional: Flavourings 900AD: Hops

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How? Distilling

Step 1: Ferment Beer

Step 2: Distill Beer (To Concentrate The Alcohol) Cook It or Freeze It Remove The Flaws Enjoy!

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How? Distilling

The Pot Still

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How? Distilling

What Affects Flavour? Type Grain(s) & How Malted Type yeast & Length Ferment

Duration & Alc.% Distillation Type & Extent Filtering

Time (if any) & Type Barrel(s)

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When? The Evolution of Spirits

Going Against The Grain

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When? 589, St. Colombanus,

Ireland

“serve about the ale which is bruised from the juice of

wheat and barley”

Going Against The Grain

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When? 1169, The Normans,

Ireland

Vintners!Aqua vite (water of the vine)

vsAqua Vitae (water of life)

=uisce beatha (idem)

Going Against The Grain

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When? 1269, Der Naturen Bloeme,

Holland

“He who has crampsCook juniper in wine

It's good against the pain"

Going Against The Grain

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When? 1494,

Scotland

“Eight bolls of malt to Friar John Cor

wherewith to make aqua vitae"

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When? 1495, The Sloane Manuscripts

Holland

“Making Burned Wine”

Lees-distilled wineWith Botanicals

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When? 1556, Ireland

Act of Parliament:

“The consumption of graine in making of aqua vitae, and that it is not Profitable to be daily

drunk and used is now universally through the realm of Ireland”

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When? 1582, A Guide To Distilling,

Holland (& Europe)

[distilled grain spirit]... “in aroma and taste is

Almost the same as brandy-wine” and is

“not only named brandywine but also drunk and paid for as brandywine”

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When? 1640, First Distillery,

USA

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When? 1689 - 1751

England

The Gin Craze&

The Gin-Ocracy

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When? 1689 - 1751

England

The Gin Craze&

The Gin-Ocracy

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When? 1689 - 1751

England

The Gin Craze&

The Gin-Ocracy

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When? 1689 - 1751

England

The Gin Craze&

The Gin-Ocracy

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When? 1750

Ireland

Dr. Johnson, LexicographerWhiskey is:

“Particularly distinguished for it's pleasant and mild spirit...

It is a compounded, distilled spirit, being drawn on aromatiks”.

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When? 1779 - 1823

Ireland

Shallow-Still Output&

The Rectifiers

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When? 1830

Ireland

Aenaes Coffey Invents The Continual Still

(1848: Corn Laws Repealed)

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How? Distilling

The Pot Still

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How? Distilling

The Coffey/ Patent/ContinualStill

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When? 1853

Scotland

Andrew Usher inventsBlended Whisky

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When? 1860

France

Phylloxera

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When? 1877

Scotland

The Distiller's Company Limited (DCL)

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When? 1894

Russia

Mendeleev“Pure” Vodka

(state subsidised also)

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When? 1920

America

Prohibition

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When? 1860s Russia

&1940s USA

The Smirnovs

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When? 1860s Russia

&1940s USA

The Smirnovs

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When? 1963

Scotland

Single Malt SoldOutside ScotlandFor the First Time

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When? 1965

America

Singles Bars

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When? 1967?

America

Bond,Russia

And the Rise of

Vodka

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When? 1979

America

VodkaAs A

FashionBrand

(And Modern Flavoured Vodkas)

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When? 1997USA

Super PremiumGoes Bananas

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When? 2008

The European Union

EU 110 / 2008

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When? 2008

Scotland, USA

The Return Of the

White Dog

Going Against The Grain

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When? 2011

Globally

Half The World'sBest-selling spirits

Are grain based

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When? 2011

Globally

Half The World'sBest-selling spirits

Are grain based

Going Against The Grain

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When?

Going Against The Grain

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When?

Going Against The Grain

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Thank you for your attention!

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philip @ liquidsolutions . org

@philipduff

Going Against The Grain