Global perspective on natural products in the cosmetic industry and LANGSAT as

one case developed by Martha Tilaarone case developed by Martha Tilaar

By

Nuning S. BarwaCorporate Innovation & Creative Advisor

Martha Tilaar Group

Presented during FAO – Forest & Beauty Side Event,Rome, Italy, 17 July 2018 1

INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION• Global cosmetic producers are constantly looking for new

vegetable oils, essential oils, botanicals and marine ingredients.

• There are opportunities for ingredients that work, tell an inspirational marketing story then have an interesting inspirational marketing story, then have an interesting attribution that link with indigenous knowledge and effort to achieve global SDGs to achieve global SDGs.

• Cosmetic manufacturers also use popular ingredients from health and food sectors.

• Sustainability and traceability are becoming one of • Sustainability and traceability are becoming one of important key issues for global producers and consumers.

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TREND IN COSMETICS INGREDIENTSTREND IN COSMETICS INGREDIENTS

• Moving marketing beyond the natural ingredients which it should • Moving marketing beyond the natural ingredients, which it should safe and effectively work

• Growing demand for sustainably produced cosmetic ingredients • Growing demand for sustainably produced cosmetic ingredients, especially to support for organic and ethically produced cosmetics

• Natural and Organic Beauty Market may reach US $ 22bn by 2024Natural and Organic Beauty Market may reach US $ 22bn by 2024

• Convergence of health and food benefits, since consumers are more aware of the importance of holistic beauty that integrating a p y g ghealthy lifestyle with mental and physical well-being, and looking radiant.

• Continuous innovation in cosmetics ingredients with added value locally

• Growing market diversity and consolidation that lead to companies with direct sourcing and concern with CSR activity 3Ref: www.cbi.eu

GLOBAL MARKET VALUE FOR NATURAL COSMETICS

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GLOBAL MARKET VALUE FOR NATURAL COSMETICS

14

16

LIO

N U

SD

10

12

UE

IN B

ILL

6

8

KET

VA

LU

4

6

BA

L M

AR

0

2

2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017

GLO

B

4

2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017

Source: www.statista.com/statistics/673641/global-market-value-for-natural-cosmetics

FORECAST MARKET SIZE OFNATURAL & ORGANIC BEAUTY INDUSTRY

25N U

SD

20

N B

ILLI

ON

10

15

T VA

LUE

IN

5

10

L M

AR

KET

02016 2024*

GLO

BA

L

5

2016 2024

Source: www.statista.com/statistics

BRIEF SARI AYU BY MARTHA TILAARBRIEF SARI AYU BY MARTHA TILAAR

Sari Ayu brand has created by Dr Sari Ayu brand has created by Dr. Martha Tilaar in 1970

B d l l i d I d i Based on local wisdom, use Indonesia biodiversity resources, merge the beauty trend with the art of green science and trend with the art of green science and technology as a basis for product creation and developmentcreation and development.

The mission of Sari Ayu is to beautify Indonesian womenIndonesian women.

Sari Ayu brand refers to the holistic fbeauty philosophy of

"Rupasampat Wahyabiantara“. 6

INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION

• Have white skin is the desire of most Asia women, because beautiful is synonymous with white skin.

• Based on the report of Global Industry analysts the global • Based on the report of Global Industry analysts, the global market for skin lightening products is estimated to be worth US $ 10 billion in 2015US $ 10 billion in 2015

• Research shows that Asian markets dominate this lightening products with a value of US $ 2 billion in 2012.

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RAW MATERIALRAW MATERIAL The main ingredient of Sari Ayu Putih Langsat is langsat or

duku fruit Lansium domesticum Meliaceae family duku fruit, Lansium domesticum, Meliaceae family.

Lansium domesticum is native to Malaysia and Indonesia, where it is widely distributed also in Thailand , yand the Philippines. However it is not generally cultivatedoutside this area although it is established in southern India, Sri Lanka, and central American countries.

Langsat is a slender tree, 10 to 20 metres high with a straight trunk slender upright branches and an irregular or rounded trunk, slender upright branches, and an irregular or rounded crown. Duku tends to be less tall and has a wider crown than langsat.

Leaves are large and divided into 5 to 7 alternately placed leaflets and one terminal leaflet. Leaflets are dark green and hi b li ht d d ll b th d 150 t shiny above, light green and dull beneath and measure 150 to

200 mm long by 60 to 100 mm wide. The leaves are faintly hairy underneath (langsat) or hairless (duku).Rumphius,1630 - 1638 8

RESEARCH ON ETHNOPHARMACOLOGYRESEARCH ON ETHNOPHARMACOLOGY

“B d k Di i ” C ld P d • “Bedak Dingin” or Cold Pressed Powder has been used for

ti b th D k generations by the Dayak communities in Kalimantan (So th a d Ce t al)(South and Central).

• This bedak dingin contains langsat This bedak dingin contains langsat fruit and is used every day to maintain the beauty of their skin, maintain the beauty of their skin, so look brighter and shiner compared to other indegenous compared to other indegenous communities.

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Safe for human being and Environment GREEN SCIENCEGREEN SCIENCE

Biodiversity G

GREEN SCIENCE MARTHA TILAARGREEN SCIENCE MARTHA TILAAR

Safe Production ProcessCredible Product Quality

Eliminate Wastes

Green ProductBiodiversity

ConservationGreen

Products

G T h lG T h l

Green ProcessingReduce Energy Consumption

Environment Conservation

Green TechnologyMeet Regulation Requirements

Increase EfficiencyN A i l T ti

Green TechnologyMeet Regulation Requirements

Increase EfficiencyN A i l T ti Green Products

Development

No Animal TestingGreen Packaging DesainWin-Win Collaboration

No Animal TestingGreen Packaging DesainWin-Win Collaboration

Green Knowledge

Green Packaging

Raw Materials Standardisation

Green Raw Material’s Cultivation

Green Research

Green Resources

1010

R&D OF SA PUTIH LANGSAT Conference & ExhibitionConference & Exhibition -

Market Trend -Library -

RM Supply -Indigenous Knowledge -

ConsumerResearch

R&D and MKTG

Product Concept

R&D and MKTG• Product Concepting• Patent Searching &/Indigenous Knowledge

Natural Resources -

RESEARCH: H b l R h

RESEARCH:Standardization

Patent Searching &/ Application

Herbal Research• Extract development• Active identification• Stability Test• Specification for QC

Standardization• Ingredient Analysis• RM standardization(Regulation compliance, Hazard & Sensitive

DEVELOPMENT New RMExtract

Specification for QC• Extraction Scale Up• Safety/efficacy Test

determination)

Prototypef l

Formulati i i

RESEARCH:S f t & Effi

• Stab Test• Compatibility Test• Panel Test (Pay off,

Packaging Dev. & St d di ti formula optimizing Safety & Efficacy

Development

Panel Test (Pay off,Spreadness, Foaming,Cleansing, After feel etc.)

Standardization

Developmenttemporary

formula

ChangeScale up

Product Registration

Changein RM

Trial ProductionMFG Routine (Production)

QC InspectionFixed

Formula

p

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CREATION OF SARIAYU PUTIH LANGSATCREATION OF SARIAYU PUTIH LANGSAT

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THE BENEFIT OF SARI AYU PUTIH LANGSATTHE BENEFIT OF SARI AYU PUTIH LANGSAT

Putih Langsat products provide skin lightening effect with Putih Langsat products provide skin lightening effect with anti-oxidant and moisturiser property.

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TECHNOLOGY AWARD ACHIEVEMENTTECHNOLOGY AWARD ACHIEVEMENT

‘RINTISAN TEKNOLOGI’ AWARD 2012

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RECOMMENDATION & CONCLUSIONRECOMMENDATION & CONCLUSION

• The global trend of natural cosmetics ingredients lead for The global trend of natural cosmetics ingredients lead for continuously innovation and creation efforts, that its should safe and work effectivelyy

• The sustainability supply of raw materials should be managed in the early stage of research and product g y g pdevelopment period

• The collaboration with the related stakeholders, especially , p yfarmers and local community should be held and well maintained by the win-win partnership concept to ensure sustainable and traceable raw materials.

• Organic certification and CSR become important to meet the global competitive market and consumer demand.

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THANK YOUTHANK YOU

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