Ghid Napoli

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Regione Campania

Assessorato al Turismo

e ai Beni Culturali

centro direzionale is. C/5 - 80143 Napoliwww.turismoregionecampania.itwww.sito.regione.campania.it/agricoltura/home.htm

free phone from Italy and cell phones

800 22 33 66from abroad+39 06 39967851tel. and e-mail for tour-operators+39 081 [email protected]

campania > artecardIntegrated ticket giving access tomuseums and archaeological sites in

Campania and entitling holders to travelon the entire regional public transportnetwork on land and seawww.campaniartecard.it

free phone 800 600 601from cell phones or abroad+39 06 39967650

Programma OperativoRegionale 2000/2006

Assessorato

al Turismo

e ai Beni Culturali

THIS PUBLICATION

HAS BEEN

CO-FINANCED

BY THE EUROPEAN UNION

theme guides

art and archaeology

nature and parks

specialities

spas and fitness

school field-trips

places of devotion

conference tourism

the sea

campania

englis

h

campania

englis

h

European Union


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Campania presents all the remarkable sites whichtourists will want to discover and make the mostof during their stay here: from the islands in theBay of Naples to the Sorrentine Peninsula and theAmalfi Coast, from Cilento to the Domitian Coast,as well as the interior, with the provincesof Benevento, Caserta and Avellino, togetherforming a truly unique region. The scenery isbreath-taking, much of it safeguarded withinthe parks and numerous nature reserves whichcharacterise Campania, from the Matese to thePark of the Monti Picentini, from Vesuviusto the National Park of Cilento e Vallo di Diano.Wherever you go, you can sample genuine localdishes and wines prepared according to tradition;the monuments and archaeological parks bringyou into contact with past civilisations which cast

their spell on young people and on the not soyoung, as well as on the experts. Among the manygems, leaving aside the extraordinary Pompeii,we can mention Herculaneum, Stabia, Boscorealeand Oplontis with their ancient villas, thePhlegrean Fields with Rione Terra at Pozzuoli,the largest urban archaeological park in Europe,Miseno and the underwater city of Baia, and the

archaeological park of Conza. And on down toCilento, where the archaeological park of Velialies surrounded by a splendid national park.Some of these wonderful monuments are alsoopen in the evenings, giving visitors anunforgettable experience as they traverse theTemples of Paestum, the archaeological siteof Pompeii or the Royal Palace of Caserta withspecial effects as night falls.For those in search of peace and quiet, Campaniais rich in spas: its 29 mineral water springs put itfifth among the regions of Italy possessing spacentres. From Ischia to Telese and ContursiTerme, there is a wide range of facilities, all of thehighest quality. All this is made possible by theconviction of the Regione Campania that the keyto the development of Campania lies in the

enhancement of its cultural, artistic andenvironmental resources; we are investingincreasingly large amounts of European and localfunding to achieve this end.

Marco Di LelloCouncillor for Tourism and Cultural Resources,Regione Campania

contents

Why visit Campania

Naples, City of a thousand facesThe historical centre: from Spaccanapolito the Piazza MercatoFrom Castel Nuovo to Forio and the SanitThe waterfront: from Chiaia to PosillipoThe hills: from Vomero to Capodimonte

The Phlegrean FieldsAgnanoPozzuoliThe SolfataraLakes Lucrino and AvernoBaia, Bacoli and MisenoCuma

VesuviusErcolano and its treasurePompeii, the buried cityThe Royal Palace of Portici,the villas of the Miglio dOro (Golden Mile)Nola and the Basilicas of Cimitile

The Islands of the Gulf of NaplesProcidaIschiaCapri

The Sorrentine Peninsula

From Castellamare di Stabia

to SantAgata sui Due Golfi

The Amalfi Coast

From Positano to AmalfiFrom Ravello to Vietri

Salerno and CilentoSalernoThe Sele plainsPaestumCilentoVallo di Diano

Caserta and MateseThe royal sites of the Bourbons:Caserta, San Leucio and CarditelloVillage of Casertavecchia

Terra del LavoroThe Domizian shore: from Licolato Baia DomiziaMatese

Benevento and SannioBeneventoCaudina ValleyTelesina and Fortore Valleys

Avellino and IrpiniaAvellino, Mercoglianoand the Sanctuary of MontevergineThe green heart of CampaniaFrom the Sabato river

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Why visit Campania

The splendid natural beauty, a mild climate, with fewrivals in this world, the archaeological remains,the historical artistic wealth, the famous culinary

heritage, the great contemporary artistic events,music and theatre: in the heart of Europe and theMediterranean, the Campania Region never ceasesto enchant its visitors like the legendary siren,Partenope, from whence the myth arises.

Most fertile of lands, the ancients called it:Campania Felix in the diaries of the travellers onthe Grand Tour. The distinctive character of thisextraordinary destination is the inimitable varietyof age old historical charm, superb natural scenery,dotted with monuments among the most visited andfamous in the world : Vesuvius, with Pompeii andHerculaneum at its feet; the enchanted Gulf, closedin by the Sorrentine and Amalfi peninsulas, Capri

and the Phlegrean tuff, with Ischia and Procida;the superb Royal Palace of Caserta

Naples, capital of the south for more than 600 years,remains, quite naturally, the heart of this formidiblearea for whomsoever desires to travel with eyes and

mind open in search of new stimulus. The otherparts of this region offer visitors emotions just asamazing, with the added benefit of the tranquilityof destinations less well known and therefore lesscrowded: Salerno, with its medieval core, itswaterfront, its wise and ambitious urban planning,all in the context of a vast province. Where the Seleplains make way for the exhuberant natural oasis ofCilento; Benevento and Sannio, an unusualintertwining of pristine nature, antique civilisationand traditional cuisine that never ceases to re-inventitself; Avellino, in the mountainous Irpinia, greenheart of the Campania, jealous custodian of tradition,popular feasts and authentic folklore; the Terra delLavoro, with its grandiose bourbon Royal Palace and

Park designed by the genius of Vanvitelli, with raregems of the calibre of Casertavecchia and ancientCapua. There is more where you least expect it,tenebrous grottoes, age old castles, antiquesanctuaries and religious sites of endless fascinationlike Montevergine and Pietrelcina

Let us not forget the care of our bodies and themany alternative wellness centres, generouslyequiped with a caleidoscope of pleasures for alltastes: modern thermal spas in incomparablescenery, crystalline seas, equiped establishments,protected area, agritourisms, wine, lemons, cherrytomatoes, mozzarella, mouthwatering pastries,flavours always different and original, great chefsand typical trattorias

In all seasons, outside of the usual holidays; for allbudgets, from the most demanding jet set travellers,to the families looking for an honest price/qualityratio.

famous travellers

This land is so happy, so delightful, so fortunate that it is obvious that it is naturesfavourite. This revitilizing air, the perpetually clear skies, the so fertile land, the sunnyhills, the dark forests, the mountains lost among the clouds, the abundanceof vineyards and grapevines and so many lakes, the copiousness of the running

waters and springs, so much sea and so many ports! A land open at all sidesto commerce and that, as if to encourage man, reaches its arms out into the sea.Plinius the Elder, Ist century B.C.

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The Wine Trails

of Campania

All over the region Wine

Trails have beenestablished: roads that leadto wine cellars open to

visitors, vineyards,charactaristic retaurants,artisan shops, to savour thetypical products in thehistorical centres andamidst the beauty of purenature. They act as stimulusfor a visit or for an entire

vacation, the Trailsrepresent a transverse wayto enjoy the territory, almost

like a huge park of ruralvillages of the region.(www.sito.regione.campania.it/agricoltura/home.htm)

Naples and the Vesuvius


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Naples, City

of a thousand faces

In the shadow the Vesuvius tourisms roots rundeep: on the imprints of great greek columns refinedaristocrats and roman emperors built their

sumptuous villas and oasis all along the shorelineof the Gulf.It is not a coincidence that at the begining of thisthird millennium the peculiar magic of thiscivilisation continues to generate new sources ofamazement: the recovery of age old monuments andtraditions folklore, gastronomy, genuinecultivation that were thought irreparably lost,events and shows worthy of the great internationalcircuit, new fodder for artistic and scientificresearch.The artistic treasure of Naples to visit are, in fact,to many to count: the historical centre, a patrimonyunder the tutelage of UNESCO, the palaces,churches, catacombs and underground

passageways, the Archaeological Museum, theplaces of medieval and renaissance power amassedaround the Castel Nuovo and Royal Palace, theunforgettable waterfront from Castel dellOvo toPosillipo.The hilly area of Vomero offers masterfully restoredbuildings like the Capodimonte Royal Palace andthe Certosa (monastery) of San Martino, museumcollections amongst the most important in the world.

A trip through the twentieth century city takes you,among the notable emerging urban and architecturalsights, to the rationalist Mostra dOltremare, with its

park, sports complex and exhibition space, to Cittdella Scienza (Science City) near by.Science is also witness to the recovery of industrialarchaeological complexes and the originality of ascientific tradition that renews itself.Unusual and surprising is the exploration of the newhomes of contemporary art: monumental structureslike the PAN, Palazzo delle Arti Napoli, the MADRE,Museo dArte Contemporanea Donnaregina(Donnaregina Contemporary Arts Museum), and theunique artistry of the metro stations that evidencethe original horizons of farseeing cultural politics.

Naples, in the final sum, remains, deep in its roots,even with all the difficulties and contradictions

inherent to all big metropolitan cities, anextraordinary place to live, admire, and enjoy withall the senses: for the depth of the art andcivilisation that has idelibly marked its history; forthe mild climate that accompanies day and night theshows, musical and theatrical events, exhibitions,fairs and religious gatherings; for the gourmandpossibilites to search out the age old culinarytradition, the seafood and the unique typicalproducts (buffalo mozzarella, pizza, Docg wine,varied and refined pastries) in all their localtranslations, or for finding fine hidden little shopswhere craftsmen still ply their wares.

The mask

of Pulcinella

The typical neapolitan mask

seems to have beeninvented in 1656 by AndreaCalcese, known as Ciuccio,

a tailor from Acerra, a townin the Province of Naples.The character alreadyexisted in the Atella regionand the name comes fromthe Italian word for chick,pulcino. Pulcinella is theepitome of poor, of a

person treated badly, and isknown for always beinghungry, therefore having a

voracious appetite. Heseems innocent, inexpert, abit thick, but is in reality aman with a millionresources: with great charmhe manages to squeeze outof all kinds of trouble.The philosopher Benedetto

Croce defines him as theportrait, the character or theideal of the neapolitan.

famous travellers

There is no one that has not dreamt

of seeing Naples.Paul Edme de Musset, 1885

Campania>Artecard

All inclusive 3 or 7 day ticketfor immediate (no queing)entrance to the mainmuseums and archaeologicalsites of the Region, and travelono the Unicocampaniapublic transport system.

City Sightseeing

Trips of 50 minutes to 2 hoursthat permit you to hop onor off at will for the durationof the ticket or of the trip.tel. 081 5517279

www.city-sightseeing.it

Ente Provinciale

per il Turismo di Napoli

piazza dei Martiri 58tel. 081 4107211www.eptnapoli.info

Azienda Autonomadi Cura Soggiorno

e Turismo di Napoli

Palazzo Realetel. 081 2525711www.inaples.it

Museo Archeologico

Nazionale

piazza Museo 19tel. 848 800288

Museo di Palazzo Reale

piazza Plebiscitotel. 848 800288

Museo Nazionale

di Capodimonte

via Miano 1tel. 848 800288

Museo Nazionale

di San Martino

largo San Martino 8tel. 848 800288

MADRE

via Settembrini 79tel. 081 5624561

i

Viewof the Gulf of Naples

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art and archaeology

SantElmo Castle

Castel Nuovo

Historical centre and

Underground Naples

Monastery and Museum

of San Martino

National Archaeological

Museum

Capodimonte Museum

MADREDuca di Martina Museum

Royal Palace

Pompeii and Herculaneum

Royal Palace of Portici

Vesuvian Villas of the Miglio

dOro (Golden mile)

nature and parks

Cloister of Santa Chiara

Cloister of San Gregorio

Armeno

Gardens of the Royal Palace

Botanical gardens

Capodimonte Park

Virgilian Park

Villa Comunale

Villa Floridiana

Vesuvius National Park

specialities

Bab

Coffee

Buffalo Mozzarella Dop

Margherita Pizza Dop

Neapolitan Salami

Sfogliatella shortcrust

and crinkly pastry

Spaghetti with clams

Apricots and cherry tomatoes

from the VesuviusWines of Vesuvius

for young people

Arenile di Bagnoli (summer)

Borgo Marinari

Piazza Bellini and historical

centre

Piazza dei Martiri

and surrounding area

Piazza Vanvitelli

and surrounding area

spas and fitness

Beauty centres of the major

hotels

shopping

Nativity scenes and shepherds

of San Gregorio Armeno

Coral and Cameoware

Porcelain of Capodimonte

Antignano Market (Vomero)

Food Market of Pignasecca

(Montesanto)

Fish Market of Porta Nolana

(via Marina)

Lavic rock, copper, wrought

iron and wicker objects

eventsJanuary-December

_Antique Fair Villa Comunale(Villa comunale)(Third weekend of every

month)

Spring

_Galassia Gutenberg(book fair)

May

_Maggio dei Monumenti

June

_Napoli Film Festival_Vitigno ItalyItalian autoctonous andtraditional wine fair

June-July

_Neapolis Rock Festival_Napoli Jazz Festival_Provinciamoitinerant shows

July

_AgriCultura. The knowhowand flavours of the Campania_Naples Blues Soul Festival_The Spirit of the Earth(ethnic shows)Spanish Quarters Park_Pomigliano Jazz FestivalPomigliano dArco_Afrak Rock FestivalAfragola

July-August

_The glance of Ulyssesand Migrant Music(concerts, tango, film)Maschio Angioino

July-September

_Midnight in the Parks(events in the parks)_Chamber Music FestivalMaschio Angioino

September

_Adunata sediziosaconcerts and shows_Pizzafest

October

_Pasta Show

November

_Artecinema (film festivalof contemporary art)Politeama Theatre

November-June

_Scarlatti Association(Classical music concertseason)Naples

December

_Exhibit and sale of cribsSan Gregorio Armeno

December 31

_Concert and fireworksdisplay

outings with children

Aquarium of the Anton Dohrn

Zoological Station

Castel dellOvo

Citt della Scienza

(Science Centre)

Archaeological Museum

(educational tours

for children)

Edenlandia amusement park

Vesuvius National Park

not to be missed

Piazza del Plebiscito

Castel Nuovo

The historical centre

Castel dellOvo

National Archaeological Museum

Capodimonte Museum

Museum of San Martino

MADRE

naples in 1 day

Royal palace and Piazza

del Plebiscito

Castel Nuovo


Spaccanapoli and

the historical centre

Castel dellOvo and the waterfront

naples in 3 days

Royal Palace and Piazza

del Plebiscito

Castel Nuovo

Monastery and Museum

of San Martino


Spaccanapoli and the

historical centre

Capodimonte Museum

Castel dellOvo and Borgo

Marinari

Waterfront and Mergellina

Posillipo

PAN and Chiaia quarter

Cloister of the San GregorioArmeno Church

8 9

The origins of the city are lost in time andcharming legends. The most tenable hypothese putsthe beginnings of the city in the 9 th century BC,

when the greeks colonised the Gulf on their way upto the high Thyrrenean mineral deposits.In 326 it was declared a Roman colony.After the fall of the Roman Empire, Naples becamethe capital of an important Duchy, that namaged tostave off the invading Longobards. In 1137 theDuchy fell into the hands of the Normans, whofavoured cultural integration.The Port of Naples became the most important in theworld. After the death of Frederick II of Svevia, CarloDAngi made his triumphal entrance to Naples in1266. Power passed into the hands of AlfonsodAragona in 1442, after a long war that brought thecity to its knees. In a short time, however, thesituation changed: important civil engineering (theconstruction of sewage conducts and streets) andrestoration works were undertaken (at Castel Nuovothe Triumph Arch was built). Other works (like theopening of via Toledo, the construction of theSpanish Quarters formerly barracks and therestoration of the Chiaia Riviera) were completedduring the following two centuries during theSpanish rule (1503-1707), up to the arrival of theBourbons (1734), who reigned the Kingdom ofNaples until 1860 when Italy was finally united.

Our journey of discovery of the city begins in thehistoric core which preserves ancient greek-romanimprints, to continue with the places of power of themedieval-renaissance period concentrated aroundthe Castel Nuovo and Royal Palace. We will then

follow along the waterfront from the CasteldellOvo to Posillipo, to end up on the green hillsof Capodimonte and Vomero.


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The womb of Naples is the greco-roman historicalcentre: a chessboard divided by three main roads,the decumans, intersected at right angles by roads

called cardinals.It is here that the pulse of the City is best felt: thealleys, the artisan workshops, the innumerableartistic marvels that surprise you in the leastexpected places, the voices of the napolitani.It is also the cultural centre of the City, with theUniversity on via Mezzocannone, the literary cafsof Bellini Square, the bookshops of PortAlba,and the Italian Institute for Historical Studieson via Benedetto Croce.

The Piazza of the Ges Nuovo is the entrance gateto the old centre.The steeple of the Immacolata (1747) and theChurch of the Ges Nuovo, which on its facadepreserves the 15th century ashlar-work of theSanseverino Palace (before it became a church itwas the property of the Sanseverino family whichused it as its palace), introduce baroquereligiousness to the city. The inside of the church isan exultation of marble, stucco and frescoes, withworks by Francesco Solimena, Luca Giordano andMassimo Stanzione.

Not far away is the austere church of Santa Chiara,built in 1310 by Roberto dAngi in a Provencalgothic style and transformed with baroquedecorations in the mid 1700s. After being damagedby the bombings of 1943, it was restored back to itsoriginal, more sober, form.

The historical centre:

from Spaccanapoli

to Piazza Mercato

Sfogliatellas

and other delicacies

The Sfogliatella, typical

neapolitan pastry,wasinvented in the 18th centuryby Pintauro. Filled with

sweet aromatic ricottacheese with candied fruitbits, it is called frolla whenit is roled in short pastry,crinkly when it is wrappedin very fine layers and fried.At Pintauro, on via Toledo,you can enjoy this classic

sfogliatella pastry.The famous Scaturchiopastry shop, in piazza San

Domenico, prepares a sweetand a salty version. Otherdelicacies are the famousbab; puffy, soft andimpregnated with rum; andthe pastiera, once anEaster delicacy, nowavailable all year round,

made with short pastry,ricotta, cooked grain andcandied fruit bits.

Do not miss out on thestruffoli at Christmas time,fried balls of soft doughsoaked in honey andcovered in coloured sugarsprinkles and candied fruit.A must: neapolitan coffee hot, sweet and very very

strong.

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Here you will find the sepulchral monuments of theroyal Anjou family (14th century), work of sculptorsof the Tuscan school. A stroll in the cloister of the

Poor Clares is not to be missed. It was designed byDomenico Antonio Vaccaro. Here Naples suddenlybecomes silent and perfumed by narcissus andwistaria; yellow, green and blue are the dominatingcolours of the tiles that dress the magnificentoctagonal columns and the seats on which theneapolitan riggiolari Donato and Giuseppe Massapainted pastoral and mythological scenes.

In via Benedetto Croce the 14th centruyFilomarino della Rocca Palace can be found,home to the philosopher Benedetto Croce, who alsofounded the Italian Institute for Historical Studies,still a busy didactic centre with a rich library. PiazzaSan Domenico is one of the Aragonsmost notableurban legacies, a peaceful co-existance of contrastingarchitectural styles: the church (13th century) wasthe official Aragonese dynastic church, of which thefunereal arches remain: the steeple of San Domenico(17th century) and the lovely faades of theCorigliano Palace (18th century), today seat of theUniversity Institute Orientale, and the SanseveroPalace.

In piazzetta Nilo stands the hellenistic statueof Nilo, rediscovered in the middle ages, to whichthe Neapolitans have given the affectionate nameof Body of Naples. Here the little church ofSantAngelo a Nilo stands. Constructed in 1385and altered in the 18th century, it contains thebeautiful Renaissance tomb of Cardinal Rinaldo

Brancaccio, made in Pisa from 1426 to 1428 byDonatello, Michelozzo and Pagno di Lapo, and sentto Naples by sea, alongside other works from the 15 th

and 16th century. Strolling along via San Biagio deiLibrai (also known as Spaccanapoli) you canbrowse in the little shops full of antiques, religiousobjects and jewelry. At number 114 we come acrossa masterpiece from the late Mannerism period of the17th century the Chapel of the Monte di Piet ,part of the monumental Carafa Palace and decoratedwith frescoes by Belisario Corenzio with the help ofLuigi Rodriguez and Batistello Caracciolo.

Almost hidden in a tiny alley that intersects with vicoSan Domenico we find the small but extraordinarySansevero Chapel. A visit to this spectacular

baroque complex is a must.

A triumph of a single artwork is to be found in thestatue of the Veiled Christ, sculpted by GiuseppeSanmartino: the effect, the virtuosity of the handling

of the marble and the play of light make it a truemasterpiece. It will be difficult to contain yourcuriosity for the many inventions and anatomicalmachines exhibited, which gave the PrinceSanseverino the fame (not deserved) of being awitch and a sorcerer.

Via San Gregorio Armeno, with its lively bustlingscene, is characterised by the belltower of thechurch with the same name. In the two monthsbefore Christmas San Gregorio Armeno become themost vivacious area of the centre, and it fills up withstands that sell little figurines and decorations fornativity scenes. Apart from the traditional babyJesus, Mother Mary and father Joseph figures thecraftsmen compete with one another to makefigurines depicting current political and gossipcolumn personalities.In the complex of the convent of San GregorioArmeno, annexed to the church, and characterisedby the sumptious Baroque nave and by theextraordinary caisson ceiling, a visit to the cloisterwith its gardens, orchards and citrus groves, is notto be missed.

At the end of this street we find ourselves in theheart of the greco-roman city, corresponding to thepart of town that was the agora and forum, andwhere the layers can still be seen.The centre of all of this was piazza San Gaetano,where the San Paolo Maggiore Church built

between the 8th

and 9th

century, and the SanLorenzo Maggiore Church, which in the cloisterhosts greco-roman excavations, are to be found. It ishere that the great writer Giovanni Boccaccio met hisdarling Fiammetta on Holy Saturday in 1336.

famous travellers

You can, from Piazza Dante, via PortAlba, reach via dei Tribunali, and from Toledoby the Maddaloni Palace reach San Biagio dei Librai, and with a guidebook inhand go looking for the building where a plaque that was cemented to the wallby its proprietor assures In this building the most illustrious citizen of Naples

was born, Saint Gennaro and where the porter, asked to confirm this clamorousnews, with a slight rising of his shoulders answers thats what they say.Giovanni Ansaldo, 1961

The Doll Hospital

Born in the 1800s they

have been restoring dollshere for three generations.The family tradition lives on

in the footsteps of thefounder Luigi Grassi, withhis grandson, also a Luigi,and his daughter Tizianacontinuing the work. Youcan visit the historical shop,in via San Biagio dei Librai81, by appointment calling

081 203076.

Cloisterof Santa Chiara

The veiled Christin the San Severo Chapel

Main Door of the churchof the Ges Nuovo

Piazza San Domenico Maggiore

The artisan shopsof San Gregorio Armeno

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A trip in the underground of Naples is a tremendouslyexciting experience that reveals the secrets, history andlegends of the city. No one knows the exact dimensions of

the dark Naples, but spelunkers have, in the last fewyears, counted up to 700 cavities for a total area of 1million metric cubes. To begin this time travel one startsfrom piazzaSan Gaetano, in the heart of the historicalcentre, for a two hour trip through subterranean passagesand cisterns. The Greek-roman theatre is interesting, with apicturesque low entrance in Cinquesanti alley. From thecloister of the San Lorenzo Maggiore church it is just afew paces to step backwards 2,600 years among the stonesof the greek walls. In the Spanish Quarters the descent isto 40 mts below the ground along stairs to arrive at theancient cisterns and aqueducts used more recently as

shelters from the bombing during the war.

In via Tribunali, to the left, the little Santa Mariadel Purgatorio ad Arco church is characterised bya bizzare baroque decoration: the skull and bones in

front of the Church symbolise the devotion of theNeapolitans to the pained souls, known aspezzentelle, a slang for without relatives. Just alittle ways on is the church and former convent ofSan Pietro a Majella, where since 1826 one of themost important conservatories of music has itshome. There you can see the paintings of MattiaPreti, masterpieces of Italian painting in the 17th

century.The nearby piazza Bellini is very lively, especiallyin the evenings, and full of cafs. In the oppositedirection, towards the end of via Tribunali, thechurch of the Girolamini rises and houses thegallery of the same name with paintings from the16th-18th centuries.

Via Tribunali intersects with via Duomo, which in turn takesits name from the Cathedral, a gothic structure completedby Robert of Anjou in 1313. The faade has been oftenrenovated, as the original one collapsed in the 1349earthquake. Inside, the structure is based on the latin crosswith three naves and is richly decorated. You can clearlysee the 18th century baroque interventions on the centralnave. Along the left nave i s the entranceway to the

paleochristian basilica of Santa Restituita. Founded in the4th century by the Emperor Constantine, today it reveals aBaroque interior created after the 1688 earthquake.

The ample fragments of mosaic pavement seem to belongto yet another paleochristian basilica, Stefania(6th century). Under Santa Restituita you can seegreek-roman archaeological remains.On the left of the apse is the entrance to the Baptistryof San Giovanni in fonte, built between the 4th and 5th

century, and therefore the oldest bulding of its kind in thewestern Christian world. On the square structure rests amosaic covered dome.Other than the medieval chapels rich with f rescoes anddcor, the 17th century Chapel of the Treasure of SanGennaro is a must. For t he rich embellishments the mostfamous of contemporary painters were summoned(Fanzago, Domenichino, Ribera, Lanfranco). Themagnificent chapel is highlighted by the preciousdecorations and large silver reliquery busts. It is here thatfor the two weeks of celebration of the miracle(the liquifaction of San Gennaros blood) the reliquery

of San Gennaros blood is on exhibit.

At number 288 of via Duomo is the Filangieri CivicMuseum, donated to the City in 1882 by GaetanoFilangieri, Prince of Satriano. The collection iscomposed of a vast series of art objects from armsto porcelain, books and furniture.

The miracle

of San Gennaro

Hope, expectations, tension

and invocations are utteredby the faithful that take partin the liquefaction of Saint

Gennaros blood. For 600years, on the first Sunday ofMay (commemoration of thefirst translation of theSaints corpse) and onSeptember 19 (day of hismartyrdom) a special massis held following a

procession that crosses thenarrow lanes of thehistorical centre.

Faade of the Duomo

Detail of a decorationin the church of Santa Mariadel Purgatorio ad Arco

famous travellers

The Cathedral, which has a beautiful door and columnsof African and Egyptian granite that once gracedthe Temple of Apollo, contains the celebrated bloodof San Gennaro, or Janarius. It is preserved in two littleampullas in a silver reliquary and three times a year itmiraculously liquefies to the great joy of the people.Charles Dickens, 1845

Miracle

of San Gennaro

San LorenzoMaggiore Church

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Going up past the Duomo, to the right on a crossstreet, is the Donnaregina Palace. This is whereMADRE Museo dArte Donna Regina

(Contemporary Art Museum) has its seat. Thebuilding was projected by the celebrated Portoguesearchitect Alvaro Siza and is a grand museum with aninternational feel. The permanent collection is madeup of works by artists that have worked in Naples inthe past: it hosts works that were once shown inpiazza del Plebiscito and the ArchaeologicalMuseum, as well as works conceived, projected,painted and constructed expressly for this museum:important works of such artists as Long, Bianchi,Clemente, Horn, Kapoor, Kounellis, Paolini, SolLewitt, Serra, and others. Cross via Duomo and onthe right on via dei Tribunali is the Pio Monte dellaMisericordia complex, founded in 1601; it is on ofthe citys oldest charitable organisation. Theoctagonal church has, on its main altar, Caravaggiosmasterpiece depicting theActs of compassion. TheGallery is also interesting, put together over timewith private donations. One of the major benefactorsof this gallery was the painter Francesco de Murawho, in 1782, left 192 of his paintings (of which42 remain today).

At the end of via dei Tribunali we find ourselves infront of Capuano Castle, the oldest of the fourcastles Naples boasts. Built in the Norman era, itbecame the Palace of Justice and is still today the

famous travellers

O, scarce in trivial tenor all, Much less to mock mansmortal sigh, The syllables proverbial fall, Naples, seeNaples, and - then die!Herman Melville, 1857

MADRE - DonnareginaContemporary Art Museum

Castel Capuano

TheActs of Compassionby Caravaggio

seat of the Civil Court. One of the gates of Naples isalso here, Porta Capuana; erected in 1484 it wasthe most important eastern entrance to the city.

Here, and near the Porta Nolana by the train stationof Garibaldi Square, there are two of the mostpicturesque of the citys markets, specialising in fish,fruit and vegetables.Not far away is the Church of San Giovannia Carbonara, constructed between 1343 and 1418.Here the elegant Caracciolo del Sole (1427) andCaracciolo di Vico (1516) chapels are to be found,as well as the grandiose tomb of Ladislasof Durazzo (1428), king of Naples.The last stop is piazza Mercato, one of the crucialcorners of Neapolitan history: here Konradin vonHohenstaufen was beheaded in 1268, and in 1647Masaniello gathered his people during the anti-spanish revolt led by him.The square is dominated by one of the most popularand venerated churches of all of Naples, the Basilicaof Santa Maria del Carmine, dedicated to SantaMaria la Bruna. In her honour, in July, a fireworkscompetition is held that concludes with the burningof the highest belltower of the City (75 mts). On viaNuova Marina, lastly, the Port opens up before us. Itwas begun by Charles II with the foundation of theAngioino Pier, and enlarged in the course of thecenturies up until the early 1900s, when it reachedits present day dimensions.

Pizza fit

for a queen

A good crust distinguishes

a Neapolitan pizza fromthose made in the rest ofthe world. 3-4 centimeters

wide and cooked to theright point it encircles adisc of soft and elasticconsistency. To prepare themost classic of pizzas, theMargherita (invented in1889 by the pizzamakerRaffaele Esposito of the

Brandi pizzeria when QueenMargaret of Savoia visitedNaples), the pizzamaker

must work with his palmsand thumbs, use SanMarzano tomatoes,mozzarella, olive oil, gratedParmigiano Reggianocheese and a few leavesof fresh basil.

Belltower and interiorof the basilica of SantaMaria del Carmine

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The area between Castel Nuovo and the NationalArchaeological Museum, going by via Toledo, is thecentre of Naples. Considered by the Neapolitans to

be the most representative, it contains some of themost symbolic monuments of the City: the MaschioAngioino, the Royal Palace, piazza del Plebiscito,the San Carlo Theatre, the Umberto I Gallery,the National Archaeological Museum.

Castel Nuovo (named so as to distinguish it fromthe older royal residences - Castel dellOvo andCastel Capuano) is also known as Maschio Angioino.

The impressive fortress, on which work was begun in 1279by Charles I of Anjou but subsequently modified by theAragonese, has a trapezoid base and is surrounded by amoat where the foundations of the f ive cylindrical towersstand.The Triumph Arch marks the entrance to the castle andis its main ornament. It was erected to commemoratethe triumphal entrance to the city by Alfonso of Aragonin 1443.The magnificent sculpted reliefs represent the best finestexamples of Renaissance sculpture in the south.Inside the castle is the Palatine Chapel, the only buildingthat still has i ts original look, and the extraordinary Barons

Hall. The Civic Museum here was inaugurated in 1992.

Castel Nuovo dominates the centre of piazzaMunicipio. At the high end of the square SanGiacomo Palace rises, seat of the City of Naples;it incorporates the 16th century San Giacomo degliSpagnoli Church. Behind the altar rests themagnificent tomb of the Viceroy Pedro da Toledo.

From Castel Nuovo

to Foria and the Sanit

The artisans

of rua Catalana

In the area of via Medina,close to piazza Municipio,the narrow rua Catalanaopens. It is known for its

numerous shops workingiron, copper and tin. This,and the adjoining streets(via Graziella, via Basile andcalata Ospitaletto), hasbecome theatre of thepermanent exhibition ofhumourous lampposts andiron sculptures signedby master i ronmongers.

famous travellers

But, look: what mean yon surly walls? A fortress? and inthe heart of town? Even so. And rapt I stare thereon.Herman Melville, 1857

The Royal Palace

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Castel Nuovo


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The Umberto I gallery (1887-1890) above has asplendid iron and glass covering 57 meters high,and below an elegant inlaid marble floor. There are

shops, cafs and bookstores on the inside.Santa Brigida Church is part of the complexand has a beautiful fresco called Heaven,by Luca Giordano, in its dome.

The San Carlo Theatre, inaugurated on November4, 1737, and named after its patron Charles ofBourbon, is the oldest opera house in the world. Thebuilding, partially destroyed by fire in 1816, wasrestored by Antonio Niccolini, the designer of itsfaade. In the early 1800s the San Carlo Theatrelived through one of its most glorious seasons everthanks to the impresario Domenico Barbaja whocommissioned works by musicians such asGioachino Rossini and Gaetano Donizetti.

Coming out of the theatre we find ourselves onpiazza Trieste e Trento (once piazza SanFerdinando) where the historical caf Gambrinus

still stands, once the preferred meeting place forpoets and intellectuals.The baroque San Fernando Church, which givesonto the same square, is home to a great tradition:every Good Friday the Stabat Materof Pergolesi isperformed.

Crossing the piazza Trieste e Trento the famouspiazza del Plebiscito opens up, the largest of thecity, spectacular backdrop of cultural events andconcerts. It is characterised by the profile of theSan Francesco di Paola Church, with itsneoclassical colonnade and its Pantheon of Romeinspired interior.

At the centre of the square the two great statues of

Charles of Bourbon (work of Antonio Canova) andFerdinand I on horseback face the Royal Palace.Construction was begun in the early 1600s basedon a project by Domenico Fontana. Enriched byJoachim Murat and Carolina Bonaparte with neo-classical embellishments and decorations, somefrom the Tuileries, it was damaged in 1837 by fire,and restored by Gaetano Genovese.

To visit the priceless interior cross over the honourcourtyard and enter the Historical Living QuartersMuseum (30 rooms on one floor) which has preserved theoriginal furniture and dcor. The monumental staircaseof coloured marble inlay and the Small Court Theatre, aballroom transformed in 1768 by Fernando Fuga into agracious Rococo ambience, are beautiful. In another part of

the palace the National Library, with its more than millionand a half volumes and several priceless medieval codices,can be found. The famous papyrus of Herculaneum arepreserved here.

famous travellers

The first impressioni s that of having landed in the palace of someoriental emperor. There is nothing in all of Europe that evencomes close to this theatre, not even in the remotest way.

Your eyes remain dazzled, your soul rapturedStendhal

New Years in piazza

del Plebiscito

Since 1994, when thesquare was permanentlyclosed to traffic, therebybecoming the symbol of the

From piazza del Plebiscito,going up along via GennaroSerra, you reach via Montedi Dio in the Pizzofalcone

rebirth of the city, piazza delPlebiscito has welcomed inthe New Year with a majorconcert alternatingmusicians and showbusiness personalities.During the Christmasseason, world famousartists exhibit theircontemporary works of artin the square.

Italian Institute of

Philosophical Studies

quarter, first nucleus of theGreek settlement.Here you will find the ItalianInstitute of PhilosophicalStudies inside the Serradi Cassano Palace with itssplendid stairway.The main entrance waswalled up in 1799 by theDukes of Serra di Cassano,after their son Gennaro,

martyr of the PartenopeanRevolution of 1799, washung.As a Unesco report states,the Institute has conquereda dimension incomparableanywhere in the world andcontributes to make Naplesa true cultural capital.

Piazza delPlebiscitoand San Francescodi Paola Church

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Umberto I Gallery

The San Carlo Theatre


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From piazza del Plebiscito the vital via Toledobegins, the main axis of the urban expansionprojected in 1536 by order of the Viceroy Pedro de

Toledo. Many Neapolitans simply call it Toledo, forothers it is via Roma (because it was so called from1870 to the 1980s). Via Toledo is one of the mainstreets of the city, characterised by ancient churchesand palaces such as the Carafa di Maddaloni(1582) and the Doria DAngri (1755), fruit of thegenius of Luigi Vanvitelli. From his balconyGaribaldi proclaimed the annexation of Kingdomof the Two Sicilies to the Kingdom of Italy.Off to one side of via Toledo, at the foot of the SanMartino Hill, the Spanish Quarters spiderwebunfolds.

Once in piazza Carit, a little detour must be madeto visit two jewels of Renaissance art: the churchesof Monteoliveto and Santa Maria La Nova.

Built in the 1400s, the church of Monteoliveto(or SantAnna dei Lombardi) preserves its simpleinterior and the rigorous formality of the originalstructure. The Del Pezzo and Ligorio altars aremasterpieces of Renaissance sculpture. Themagnificent lifesized terracotta sculptures of theLament of the Dead Christ(said to represent themembers of the Aragon royal family) are hosted inthe capital area.

The Santa Maria la Nova Church is alsoRenaissance, with its imposing cloisters. Built in the1200s it was completely restructured starting in1596. Also splendid the gilded wood caisson

ceiling, into which 46 panels, painted by the majorNeapolitan artists of the day, were inserted at the endof the 1500s.

The last part of via Toledo gives onto piazza Dante.

Decorated by the monument to Dante (1872) by TitoAngelini, it is enclosed by the hemicycle of the ForoCarolino, constructed by Luigi Vanvitelli. PortAlba

stands out to the left of the hemicycle, from whichyou reach the street of the same name, site of someof the oldest bookstores of Naples.

Near to piazza Dante is the NationalArchaeological Museum, the most importantmuseum of classical archaeology in the world.Charles of Bourbon put the largest art collection inItaly, the Farnese collection inherited by his motherElisabeth, into this building (the old Study Palaceor university). Over the years the largestarchaeological collection of all time, relics from thecity and from the villas buried under the ashes ofVesuvius in 79 BC, was brought here.

The most important collection of the museum is that of the

mosaics, paintings,jewellery and objects recoveredfrom the buried vesuvian homes. A collection unmatchedpeer in the world that attracts, needless to say, millions ofvisitors.Another highlight is the classical sculpture collection,some roman copies of Greek originals, amongst which thecelebrated Farnese sculptures (the Bull, the Herculesanddozens of others). The cameo and cut gem collection,which includes the extraordinary Farnese Cup, is also veryrich. The vast epigraph collection includes over 2,000pieces representing all of the languages once spoken inCampania (from Greek to Oscan, Etruscan to Latin). TheEgyptian collection is only second in importance in Italyto that of Turin. There is a section dedicated to the Papyrus

Villa, the famous roman house in Herculaneum thatbrought to light so many relics, amongst which thecelebrated statues in bronze and marble.The Secret Cabinet is a part of the museum that houses a

19th century collection of Greek and Roman objectsconsidered obscene at the ti mes, reserved only forauthorized visitors. It includes now sculptures, frescoes,mosaics, amulets, oil-lamps and graffiti with erotic themes

from the digs at Pompeii.

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we wanna see Don Peppe!Crowds of Neapolitans under the balcony of Doria dAngri Palace where Garibaldi was staying

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I am leaving. I will forget neither via Toledo, nor anyof the other quarters of Naples: to my eyes it is,

without a doubt, the most beautiful city in the universeStendhal, 1817

Art in the Metro

The best contemporary artmuseum in Italy That ishow Line 1 of the NaplesMetro has been defined.

The stations, in fact, fromVanvitelli-Dante thatconnect the historical centreto the Vomero, are knownas the art stations.Architects of internationalacclaim have redone thecontours of the stations,and the stations themselveshave become enriched withworks of contemporary art.

In the Museo station, doneby Gae Aulenti, a largebronze horse head, calledCavallo Carafa (belongingto the National ArcheolocalMuseum) and a copy of theFarnese Hercules, made bythe students of the NaplesAcademy of Arts, areexhibited.

The Spanish Quarter

Planned following achessboard motif in the 16 th

century to accommodate theSpanish troops and their

families, the Spanish Quarterhas been transformed overthe ages into a city withinthe city, a picturesque andlively quarter. Strollingabout these streets(carefully), one encounterskids playing ball and standsthat sell just abouteverything.

The Mosaic ofAlexander the

GreatThe National

ArchaeologicalMuseum

The Art Metro

Tyrannicides.National

ArchaeologicalMuseum

22

PignaseccaMarket

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Tot and Eduardo,

poets of the Sanit

I am from the Sanit district,the most famous in Naples

Tot loved to exclaim, and infact he was born here in1898. His house in via Santa

Maria Antesaecula hasbecome a shrine where onecan go to pay homage to thegreat King of Laughs.Eduardo de Filippo, on theother hand, went to school inthis quarter, and he hasimmortalised it in one of hismost famous theatrical

productions, The LocalAuthority(1960).

FontanelleCemetery

A gigantic bone deposit in tuffcaverns where thousands of

bones and skulls form macabrestructures. Here started the Cultof the Souls in Purgatory, the

deaths due to the choleraepidemic in 1836. Adopting askull, or some other remains ofthe dead, and not ever leavingthem without a candle, meansgetting protection from themand having them pleasantlyvisit you in your dreams. Youcan get into the cemetery from

the small church of MariaSantissima del Carmine, in viaFontanelle.

for the poor), begun in 1751by Ferdinando Fuga. Thework, which was meant tolodge all the poor in therealm, remained incomplete.Cultural events are hosted inthe restored area.

From the museum you get onto piazza Cavour:here begins via Foria that crosses the popularSanit, Vergini and SantAntonio districts. The lovely

16th

century church of Santa Maria della Sanit,with its grandiose pincer-shaped stairs that framethe crypt, is to be seen. From the church you gainaccess to the Catacombs of San Gaudioso. In thisquarter you can find the 17 th century Palace of theSpaniard (dello Spagnolo) and the SanfelicePalace both works of Ferdinando Sanfelice andused as models for theatrical backdrops.

Further along, via Foria reaches the Botanicalgardens.

Created in 1807 by Giuseppe Bonaparte, it was originallyconceived to study plants useful to agriculture, commerceand for medicinal purposes. Today, the area of circa12 hectares contains about 10,000 species for a total of

25,000 plants, one of Italys most important collections forcontent and area. Particularly interesting is the rich variety

of succulents.

Back at the Archaeological Museum, ascend towardsCapodimonte on via Santa Teresa degli Scalzi.Next to the big Incoronata del Buon ConsiglioChurch are the catacombs of San Gennaro,among the oldest and most amazing of Campania.Going further up the hill you arrive at the RoyalPalace of Capodimonte, which houses the museumof the same name.

famous travellers

Three young friends that were travelling together in Italy last year visitedthe Museum of Studies, in Naples, where various ancient relics found in theexcavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum were on display The youngest,stopped in front of an exhibit, seemed not to hear the exclamations of hiscompanions, so absorbed was he in profound contemplation.Thophile Gautier, 1852

24 25

Real Albergo

dei Poveri

From the vast piazza Carlo IIIyou can admire the gigantic

faade (600x150 m) of theAlbergo dei Poveri (Hospice

Catacombsof San Gennaro

Botanical Gardens

Church of SantaMaria della Sanit

Th t f t


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The waterfront between Castel dellOvo andPosillipo, with its panoramic view of the entire Gulf,Vesuvius and the islands, is the most famous scene

of Naples.The profile of the coast is dominated by the massivetuff wall of the Castel dellOvo, the oldest of thecity, that sits on the little islet of Megaris facing thefamous Santa Lucia quarter. Now connected to landby a small bridge, the island was chosen by theroman patrician Licinius Lucullus as site for his newvilla. It was transformed into a convent by the SaintBasil monks in about 492 AD. Under the Normans inthe 12th century it became a fortress. The Hall of theColumns, so called because it re-used the powerfulcolumns of the original villa, must be visited. Fromthe cannon terrace, on the high part of the castle,you can enjoy a marvellous view of the gulf.Under the walls of the castle is Borgo Marinari,constructed in the 1800s, it was originally meant

to house fishermen, their boats and their families.It now houses nautical clubs, restaurants, barsand trendy night spots.

The waterfront:

from Chiaia to Posillipo

Virgil the wizard

The name of Castel dellOvo(Castle of the Egg) derivesfrom a legend tied to thepoet Virgil, to whom the

medieval Neapolitansattributed magical powers.One of the wizardstalismans was said to behidden in the castle: an eggpreserved in a jug andlocked in an iron cage. Thecastle would never crumbleas long as the egg remainedintact.

famous travellers

If there is a place on earth where you can be happy,

then it is on the Santa Lucia waterfront.Paul Edme de Musset, 1885

Castel dellOvo

Via Caracciolo and the VillaComunale (City Park)

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famo s tra ellers


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Walking along the very famous via Caracciolo youcan enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery ofNaples, from Vesuvius all the way to the hills of

Posillipo, dotted with houses immersed in green andall framed by the intense blue of the sea. ViaCaracciolo runs parallel toVilla Comunale, the CityPark, once called Royal gardens and designed byLuigi Vanvitelli at the end of the 1700s, and to theold waterfront that even today is called the Rivieradi Chiaia. You can visit the Zoological Sation,(founded by the German Anton Dohrn in 1872) andthe oldestAquarium in Europe. On the Riviera diChiaia, in the neoclassicalVilla Pignatelli, is thePrincipe Diego Aragona Pignatelli Cortes

Museum, still with its original furnishings. TheBank of Naples keeps its rich collection of paintingshere. A Carriage Museum is soon to be opened inthe old stables with a collection of period coachesand harnesses.

Via Caracciolo ends at Mergellina, where accordingto legend the current dragged the lifeless body of thesiren Partenope. Also here the view is breathtaking,the hills of Posillipo and Vomero with Vesuvius inthe distance.

Near to piazza Sannazaro is via di Piedigrotta(so called because it was at the foot of the grotto,today a tunnel, dug in the 1 st century BC by the

Romans who wanted to make transit from Pozzuolito Naples easier: in fact the other side of the tunnelis called Fuorigrotta, or out of the grotto) that endsin front of Santa Maria di Piedigrotta.Between the church and the Mergellina Station is theentrance to the Park of the Tomb of Virgil, one ofthe most visited sites of the Grand Tour. The parkhosts the so-called tomb of Virgil, a 1st century ADsepulchre traditionally identified with the burial ofthe poet. In 1939 the tomb of another great poet,Giacomo Leopardi, who died in Naples in 1837, wasalso transferred here.Leaving the waterfront behind, going on to theWestern district, in piazzale Tecchio we find theMostra dOltremare; a large exhibition centre built inthe 1930s of great historical, architectural and

environmental value. The area of about 700.000square metres houses buildings, gardens, fountainsand a large open-air arena the serves as a theatre.

Luxury Shopping

The ideal shopping tripbegins on via Toledo and

then goes on to the viasChiaia, Calabritto,

Filangieri, dei Mille, thestreets considered the mostelegant, and with thefamous stores. Some of thebig name fashion brandshave shops here, from softluxurious leather wareto clothing and ties.The Chiaia area is rich with

noble buildings from the16-1700s and scenic

The PAN (Palazzo

delle Arti Napoli)

In via dei Mille, PAN hasrecently been inaugurated in

the 18th century RoccellaPalace.

This new cultural centrewelcomes contemporary artin all its forms: frompainting to sculpture,architecture to photography,design to cinema.

faades like those on piazzadei Martiri, alwaysconsidered one of the bestaddresses of the City, whilethe nearby Amedeo districtoffers a lovely repertoryof Liberty-style architecture.

Villa Comunale,with the Aquariumin the background

Villa Pignatelli

famous travellers

I think of you every day, when, opening the balcony I see this sparkling seaunfold itself under the oranges of Posillipo, furrowed by the many boats, whosetwo little white veils are similar to the white wings of the seagulls. At my feet thegrassy fields of the Royal Villa, dotted with rose bushes, already green like ourmost beautiful ones in Spring.Alphonse de Lamartine, 1820

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The PAN, Palazzodelle Arti Napoli

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From Mergellina the beautiful scenic Via Posillipogoes up the hill, the old Pausilypon(Greek forpain reliever). You can see the enormous Palazzo

DonnAnna and numerous villas immersed ingreen.At the extreme end of the promontory of Corogliois the Villa del Pausilypon, the remains of theluxurious home of Publius Vedius Pollio, one ofOctavians supporters. Upon his death the villa wentto the emperor.

The grandiose villa was composed of severalbuildings erected between the 1st century BC andthe 4th AD, to cover an area of about 9 hectares. Atthe centre was the huge residential structure, aroundwhich were built a grandiose theatre, an odeionandthermal baths. Apart from its private dock on theCala dei Lampi, the complex included its own roadsand the tunnel known as the Grotta di Seiano, that

crosses the rocky coastline to Coroglio, which todayis the point of access to the complex.

famous travellers

The magnificence of a night in the full moon, like the one weenjoyed strolling the streets and piazzas, along the infinite

waterfront of Chiaia, and then up and down along the shore.One is really overcome by the sensation of the infinity of space.

To dream like this is worth while.Johann Wolfgang Goethe, 1787

famous travellers

There saw we learned Maros golden tomb, The way he cut,an English mile in length, thorough a rock of stone, in onenights space.Christopher Marlowe, 1588

The Piedigrotta Festival

and the Neapolitan song

The festival takes placeSeptember 7th, with

processions and aspectacular fireworks display.

It was during this festival in1835, in fact, that the genre ofthe neapolitan song was born:te voglio bene assaje,arranged by GaetanoDonizetti, became famous theworld over. The most famousNeapolitan songs saw thelight in the last 20 years of

the 1800s, yet continued withthe popular singer-

Palazzo DonnAnna

One of the most celebratedof the city for its spectacular

position, like an enourmouscliff that surges up from the

sea, Palazzo DonnAnna isone of the symbols ofPosillipo. Constructed in1642 by Cosimo Fanzago forAnna Carafa, wife of FilippoRamiro Guzman, Viceroy ofNaples, it remainedincomplete and assumed thefascinating aspect of an

ancient ruin. It is the sourceof many dark legends:

songwriters of the 1900s. TheNuova Compagnia di CantoPopolare achieved worldwide fame with La GattaCenerentola by RobertoDe Simone. The traditionof Neapolitan song is stillvery alive today thanks to themany enthusiastic singer-

songwriters, rock groups andjazz musicians.

DonnAnna, abandoned byher husband, who went backto Spain, is said to havegone insane after beingbetrayed by a lover.

PalazzoDonnAnna

30 31

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The most spectacular panorama of Posillipo isenjoyed from theVirgiliano Park, located on the topof the hill. From between trees, gardens and

sporting facilities, ones eyes roam over the entireGulf of Naples, the Phlegrean Fields, and over to thesea, from which the island of Nisida emerges.This magical scenery inspired a whole generationof painters in the 1800s, known as the Schoolof Posillipo. Their rendering of this enchantedpanorama did much to contribute to the fame of thebeauty of Naples.

From the sheer cliffs of Coroglio and the coveof Trentaremi, to the western edge of Posillipo, wecan see nearby Bagnoli. Today it is the object of anample project aimed at recuperating the marineenvironment, the beach and the former Italsiderironworks abandoned years ago. Some of the resultsof this project can already be seen in the Science

Centre or Citt della Scienza, an interestingexample of the recovery of industrial archaeology.Dedicated to scientific phenomena and the history ofdiscoveries, the first science centre in Italy is aninteractive museum and a hub of scientific andavantgarde technology. The visit, from the largeplanetarium to the scientific instruments that mustbe touched, is particularly interesting for children.

famous travellers

Say, tell or paint what you will, but here all expectationsare exceeded. This shore, the gulfs, the coves May all those

who lose their minds in Naples be forgiven!Johann Wolfgang Goethe, 1787

the beaches for a dive

into the city

In the summer months, thebeaches of Posillipo are

assaulted by bathers. UnderPalazzo DonnAnna there aremany bathing

establishments. At the end ofthe descending path of thesame name is the Marechiarolido, once a tiny fishingvillage, nostalgicallydescribed by the poetSalvatore Di Giacomo in thesong by the same name(immortalized by a small

plaque). The far point ofGaiola with the cove ofTrentaremi is beautiful, and

the natural amphitheatre isgrandiose with its high wallsof yellow tuff. This is wherethe protected marine reserveGaiola Underwater Park is.Here you can see the remainsof some of the buildings ofthe nearby roman villa ofPublius Vedius Pollio,

submerged due tobradyseism (a geologicalphenomenon).

Nisida and,in the background,

Capo Miseno,Procida and Ischia

Panorama fromthe Virgiliano Park

32 33

The hills:


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TheVomero district was born in the 1800s, in agreen zone famous for its views of the Gulf. Todaythe small Liberty Style villas exist side by side to

modern buildings, and are one of the most livelyquarters of Naples, with a wealth of shoppingattractions.

The heart of the Vomero is Piazza Vanvitelli, fromwhich it is easy to reachVilla Floridiana, a gift ofFerdinand of Bourbon to his morganatic wife LuciaMigliaccio, the Duchess of Floridia. The elegantbuilding, built by Antonio Niccolini and surroundedby a large park with fake ruins, sumptuous paths,fields and a panoramic terrace, today houses theDuca di Martina Ceramics Museum. The nucleusof the collection are the pieces donated by the heirsof Placido De Sangro, Duke of Martina, an avidcollector of coral, ivory, snuff-boxes and most of allporcelain and majolica. The collection of porcelain

from Capodimonte and the Far East are especiallyinteresting.

The hills:

from Vomero

to Capodimonte

famous travellers

A forty year-old widow, far from beautiful but none-the-less kind, at the timerented me half of her small house at the foot of the mountain that dominates,the close by villa of Princess Floridia, wife of the old King. It is, perhaps, the only

part of Naples that is a bit tranquil.Stendhal, 1839

Capodimonte Museum

Hall of the Ducadi Martina Museum

in the Villa Floridiana

34 35

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From Piazza Vanvitelli you can get to the top of thehill (with the escalator, if you wish), to the CastelSantElmo and the Certosa (charterhouse) of San

Martino.Castel SantElmo dominates the city with itsimposing profile. With the nearby charterhouse, it isvisible from many parts of Naples. This massivefortress was built in the 1300s by Robert of Anjouand was completely restructured under the Pedro deToledo government (1537-1546). The ground planforms a six-pointed star; part of it carved into thetuff rock, and is surrounded by bastions and moats.From the glacis you can enjoy a 360 panorama ofNaples.

Next to the Castle is the monumental complex of theCertosa of San Martino, also projected by Robertof Anjou. It was begun by Tino di Camaino in 1325,and later transformed in the 1500s and the middle

1600s by the most noted architects of the day(Dosio, Fanzago), thus becoming the most completeexample of Neapolitan Baroque and one of the citysmost grandiose monuments.

Beneath, the great city with its four hundred thousand souls,its red tiles and irregular masses of brick-work, contrasting

with the gilded domes of the superb churches.A.J. OReilly 1884

the pedamentina

of San Martino

From San Martino, followthe steps of the long steep

Via Pedamentina, to arriveto Corso Vittorio Emanuele

and then on to Via Toledo inthe heart of the lower city.With its 414 steps it is oneof Naples oldest streets.At the end of the first rampthere is an old gate thattakes you into the belly ofthe hill. From there, theroyal guards warded off the

assaults on the CastelSantElmo.

Naples as it wasat the end of the 1400s.The Strozzi Table.Museum of San Martino

View of CastelSantElmo and the

Certosaof San Martino

from Castel Nuovo

Cuciniello Crib.Museum

of San Martino

The inside of the church is a triumph of frescoes,sculptures, polychromatic marble and paintings. Thefrescoes were done by, among others, Giovanni Lanfrancoand Battistello Caracciolo. Even the presbytery and the

sacristy are richly decorated: oils by Ribera, MassimoStanzione and Guido Reni, wardrobes and choir-stalls ofinlaid wood. The vault of the Cappella del Tesoro isdecorated with the luminous fresco by Luca Giordano,The Triumph of Judith. The halls around the cloister housethe National Museum of San Martino . The museum hassections dedicated to sculpture and painting, minor artsand theatre.The section dedicated to the scenes of the city is veryimportant, starting with works from the 1400s andincluding the famous Tavola Strozzi. Particularly interestingis the cribs section made up of works by artists from the1700s and by two exceptional groups of works: the woodenfigurines of San Giovanni a Carbonara from the 1400s andthe Cuciniello Crib from the 1800s, named after its donor.Do not miss the Priors Apartment (the restored livingquarters of the Prior), set in a very panoramic position,and the beautiful gardens of the convent.

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The highest point of the city is the Eremo deiCamaldoli, an hermitage at 457 mt above sea level.It was constructed in 1585 and has a splendid viewover the Gulf, the islands and the Phlegrean Fields.The border of the urban weave of the hill, it alsomerits a visit to fully enjoy the nearby CamaldoliPark.

From Camaldoli, going down along Viale ColliAminei, you arrive to Capodimonte. The namederives from the late latin Caput de Monte (top ofthe mount) and clearly indicates its position: a hillon the highest part of the City. Here rises the RoyalPalace of Capodimonte, surrounded by a vastpark. Charles of Bourbon, a dedicated hunter,wanted to construct a hunting lodge here. Afterhaving done so, he had it enlarged to house theprecious Farnese collections. The building,designed by Antonio Medrano, was finished only in

1839. Located in the immense park are the huntinglodge of Vittorio Emanuele II, a small lodge knownas of the Queen, the Chapel of San Gennaro, thebuilding of the old 1737 porcelain factory ofCharles of Bourbon, the hermitage of the Cappuccinimonks and the Fagianeria (pheasant breedingfacility).Today, the Royal Palace is home to the NationalMuseum of Capodimonte, one of the mostimportant in the world for painting and thedecorative arts.

the Capodimonte

Porcelains

In 1738 Charles of Bourbonwed Maria Amalia, daughter

of August the Strong ofSassony and founder of the

celebrated porcelain factory of

Meissen. The King decided toopen a porcelain factory toproduce precious pieces likethe famous porcelain sittingroom of the Queen, and amultitude of other elegant andcurious objects: vases and

snuff-boxes, soup-tureens

and plates, statuettes andbowls.

In 1759 Charles, now King of

Spain, took the manufacturewith him to Madrid. Theproduction continued inNaples in the FernandeaRoyal Factory. Today theNeapolitan craftsmen keep theancient art alive, continuing to

make works inspired by the

old masters, as well as withoriginal creations.

the Capodimonte

Observatory

Located in a splendidposition on the Miradois

Hill and housed in a neo-classical building, the

Astronomic Observatory,the first of the modernobservatories of Europe,was founded in 1819 by theastronomer GiuseppePiazzi. The museumcontains a rich collectionof historic scientificinstruments.

The Flagellation

by Caravaggio,CapodimonteMuseum

Vesuviusby

Andy Warhol,CapodimonteMuseum

Porcelain

in theCapodimonteMuseum

Capodimonte, that rises on the mountaintop is a vast palace begun by DonCarlos, presently King of Spain. Here are housed all the richesfrom the ParmaPalace of the Farnese family that Charles took to Naples when he came throughthis Duchy to the throne of the Two Sicilies. The position of this palace is thebest of the world.Marquis de Sade, 1776

The InebriatedSilenusbyRibera and theCrucifiction

by Masaccio,CapodimonteMuseum

The main nucleus of the Museum is the FarneseCollection, started by Pope Paul III and inherited byCharles mother Elisabeth Farnese. The picture gallery hasmore than 200 masterpieces: Masaccio, Botticelli, Raphael,

Ribera, Titian, Mantegna, Correggio, El Greco, LorenzoLotto, Parmigianino, Carracci, and Bruegel. There are alsotwo preparative drawings by Raphael for the SegnaturaRoom, and by Michelangelo for the Pauline Chapel i n theVatican. Also exceptional is the gallery of 13th-19thcentury Neapolitan painting: the Saint Ludovico ofTolosaby Simone Martini, the evocative FlagellationbyCaravaggio, and again the works of Ribera, Luca Giordano,and Francesco Solimena. The section dedicated to the1800s is rich with the School of Posillipo painters, fromAnton Smick Pitloo to Giacinto Gigante, and the mastersof Naturalism, like the Palizzis. The many artists of the late1800s and early 1900s from Domenico Morelli toVincenzo Migliaro complete the artistic panorama.The contemporary section is also renewed by thepresence of artists such as Alberto Burri, Andy Warhol,Carlo Alfano and Mimmo Paladino.The Museum holds other surprises: the Historic

Apartment, with the porcelain sitting room of QueenMaria Amalia, for example. The collection of decorativearts is one of the richest in all of Italy with unique workslike the precious Farnese Box and the wall tapestries ofdAvalos, and the exceptional porcelain works like theAurora Cartby Filippo Tagliolini.

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