GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

Advertised under rule 41(1) of geographical indications on goods(registration and protection) rules,2002 in the geographical indications journal 45 dated 11th September2012.

G.I Application number- 198

Application date 26.02.2010

Application is made by, Mangalgiri Sarees and Fabric Apex Society , Door Number 953

Near Yerracheruvu GNT Road, Mangalagiri, Guntur District, Andhra Pradesh, Indiafor Registration in Part-A of the Register of MANGALAGIRI SAREES AND FABRICS under Application No: 198 in respect of Textile and Textile goods not included in other classes including chudidhar (Salwar Kameez) sets & dress material (gents shirt and kurtha material), falling in Class – 24 and Clothing (Sarees & Dupatta), falling in Class – 25 is hereby advertised as accepted under Sub-section (1) of Section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

A) Name of the Applicant: Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics Apex Society, B) Address: Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics Apex Society, Door No. 9-53, Near Yerracheruvu GNT Road, Mangalagiri, Guntur District, Andhra Pradesh, India.

Mangalagiri cotton sarees and fabric have its uniqueness of being made from pit looms only . This means a lot of physical movement and hardship for the weavers as they have to sit at ground level and place their feet in pits dug below the earth level. This posture allows the weavers to apply more force into the weave as a result of which the material is pulled tight, durable and the fibres are closely packed . Besides, there is no gap at the edge of the weave which makes the fabric durable even in the edges. While many fabrics have a tendency to fray atthe edges, Mangalagiri cottons are far more long lasting.

Specification:

Specification: Mangalagiri Sarees and fabrics are made of pure cotton fabric. The material is durable and produced in the Mangalagiri region near Guntur region of Andhra Pradesh, which are characterized as following:

Pure, sturdy, durable cotton material No weave designs on body of the fabric Nizam border in sarees and chudidhar material which is peculiar only to

Mangalagiri region Material woven only on pit-loom and are handloom products. No gaps on the weave in the edge of the material which is again peculiar to

this kind of fabric. Only manufactured in Mangalagiri region Sarees and fabrics made of yarn within 40s to 80s range. Fabric is very well known for its softness inspite of the yarn not being so

fine. This is attributable to the tightness of weave, due to the use of pit loom which allows tight weaving by weavers planting their feet firmly on the ground.

OBJECTIVE

The Objective of this project is to study and analyze the Mangalagiri handloom cluster and also to provide effective measures and suggestions for improvement and to identify areas of optimum growth.

RECENT INOVATION

There are a lot of attempts being made at giving a modern twist to the Mangalagiri textiles. Apart from the exquisite and bright saree creations, the Mangalagiri dress materials have a global demand too. A lot of the new generation enjoys wearing the cool cotton kurtas, dupattas and stoles with the Mangalagiri weave which can be teamed up with western wear for a funky Indo-Western look. Apart from that, check patterns for men’s clothing, borders in cushion covers, jhola bags made with Mangalagiri fabric are also quite popular.

GLOSSARY

Aasu – Octagonal Wooden Frame

Achulu –Heals

Anchu – Border

Annam - Rice

Art Silk – Artificial Silk

Batta Chiltuku Ne Donay – Cloth Beam

Budidha – Cow dung ash

Chandrakanta – Magenta

Charka – Spinning Machine

Dubba - Packet

Enti Taiyaari Kendram – Street sizing Centre

Ganga- Jamuna – Orange

Ganji - Starch

Jhama – Coarse Cotton Ball

Jonna Vusa – stick used for spool winding

Kandhi - Bobbin

Kattu – Yarn Hank

Kempu – Pink (rani)

Kimpu – Maroon Color

Kunchi – Brush

Ladi, Icchulu – Division of a hank

Lavu - Thickness

Locantalu – Naroow bamboo stick split into two

Mamidi Pinda – Mango motif

Nadi/ Naal – Shuttle

Nalupu - Black

Oggulu – Iron Rod

Panni – Reed

Parn – Warp Bobbin

Patcha – Green

Pasara- Olive Green

Pasupu - Yellow

Pattubadi – Saree with thick and compact weave

Panu Chakkalu – Treadle

Podugu – Bundle

Podugu Donay – Warp Beam

Snapangy – Yellow Ochre

Smitha – Turquoise Green

Tannadu Badda – Bow

Telupu - White

Yeruelu – Roots of the rusi pulla plant

Yerupu – Red

Handloom of Andhra Pradesh

Renowned for its handlooms, Andhra Pradesh is an ancient institution of hand-woven fabrics. It produces the most exclusive sarees and dress-materials, having delicate and distinctive designs. Each saree boasts of an intricate 'pallu' and delicate border adorned with gold thread work. The looms of Pochampalli, Venkatagiri, Gadwal, Narayanpet and Dharmavaram are well-known for their silk and cotton sarees all over India. Usually, both the loom and the fabric are known by the name of the place. Each loom is recognized with its distinct weaving style and variety of fabric. In Andhra Pradesh and most other southern states, cotton and silk are the two most preferred fabrics. Some of the famous handlooms of Andhra Pradesh are as follows.

Handloom of India.

Along with the artistry of weavers, the Indian handloom industry demonstrates the richness and diversity of Indian culture. The sector, which employs about 4.3 million people, is the second-largest

employment provider for the rural population in India after agriculture. The sector accounts for around 15 per cent of the total cloth produced in the country (excluding wool, silk and yarn) and has the largest infrastructure with 2.3 million weaving looms. The total handloom cloth production in India reached 6.9 billion sq m in 2012–13, up from 6.6 billion sq m in 2008–09. The country supplies 95 per cent of world

demand for hand woven fabric.