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GARYSForum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011
REFLECTING ON FALL
INSPIRATION: IRELANDSTYLE MATTERS
CLOSET THERAPY
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GARYS
WELCOME TO THE FALL 2011 ISSUE OF GARYS FORUM MAGAZINE
It’s our semi-annual way of bringing you new ideas to help brighten up yourwardrobe, and new information about the store, the community and the world.We’re particularly excited about this issue and we hope you’ll take the time to explore the fashiontrends and tips, enlightening stories and the ads from the brands we offer.
Our featured CEO this season is Don Ressler of Manhattan Beach-based Intelligent Beauty, parentcompany of Sensa, DermStore.com and justfab.com. He’s a GARYS customer and a very smart and welldressed guy. In addition to learning about Don, we encourage you to explore the stories on fashion,music, design, food and drink that we’ve specially written for this season’s magazine.
Of course, all this is designed to remind you that there is no other store like GARYS in southernCalifornia—or just about anyplace else. We have an amazing selection of clothing and footwearmatched closely with the Newport Beach lifestyle, and the best sales associates to help you find theperfect items to round out your wardrobe.
On that note, we would like to take this opportunity to remember Lee Niemczyk(at left), who passed away last April. Lee was a dedicated and thoughtful managerwith a true passion for the clothing business. He had over 40 years of experienceworking in some of the finest men’s specialty stores in Southern California, includ-ing his seven year tenure at our GARYS Studio location in Del Mar. In addition tohis passion for knit ties, he believed that a customer’s satisfaction came first andforemost. Lee is remembered by all as a consummate gentleman: polite, kind, gra-cious and selfless to a fault. He will be missed by all of us in the GARYS family.
We hope you come by and experience the warmth, style and value that are the hallmarks of GARYS,and have been for over 40 years. We look forward to seeing you.
—Dick, John and Kari Braeger
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Passion for Life15MilMil15 Suit
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GARYSFashion Island, Newport Beach
949-759-1622
Del Mar Plaza, Del Mar858-794-0740
EDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg Grossman
DESIGN DIRECTORHans Gschliesser
MANAGING EDITORJillian Sprague
PROJECT MANAGERLisa Montemorra
DESIGNERSCynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti
CONCEPT DIRECTORSAndrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell
MERCHANDISING DIRECTORBob Mitchell
DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTIONPeg Eadie
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESSHugh K. Stanton
BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER
Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO
Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CAHubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN
Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OHLarrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA
Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TXMario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WAMitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY
Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CTOak Hall MEMPHIS, TNRodes LOUISVILLE, KY
Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LAStanley Korshak DALLAS, TX
Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA
FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONALEDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM
COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175;
ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS
ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS,UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER
MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCEDWITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14,
ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
FEATURES2 Welcome Letter8 Power Player: Don Ressler 10 Giving Back: Working Wardrobes 20 GARYS Island Shop-in-Shop 50 Music: Classical Cool54 Design: Haute Hospitality58 Icons: Guitar Hero
FASHION26 Profile: OluKai 28 Profile: A Decade of Agave 30 Wardrobe: Men’s Fashion in Film32 Profile: Edward Armah34 Life Is But a Dream 40 Why Style Matters
DEPARTMENTS 12 At Your Service 24 Ask Forum 48 World Scene 62 Spirits: Cutting-Edge Cocktails 64 Food: Cooking With the Stars 68 End Page: Closet Therapy
28 Contents.qxp:FORUM 7/14/11 10:15 AM Page GAR2
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Although he’s too polite to mention it,marketing guru Don Ressler has gener-ated a billion dollars in sales and raised$100 million in capital for various inter-net companies. He was founder andCEO of FitnessHeaven.com (a Forbesmagazine best-of-web winner), whichwas acquired in 2001. He was then a topexec at Intermix, the parent companyto MySpace that was sold to News Corpin ’05, giving him and his partner themeans to found Intelligent Beauty. Hecreated the skincare brand Hydrodermand co-founded several other internetcompanies. Here, we speak with Resslerabout building brands. Tell us a little about your currentbusiness ventures.My career has always been online mar-keting; my specialty is turning uniqueideas into brands. In 2006 with mypartner, I founded IB (IntelligentBeauty) Inc., which now has 400employees. We’ve evolvedinto three distinct busi-nesses. The first isDermStore.com, ahealth and beauty
business featuring600 brands,20,000 SKUs. In
fact, we’re thelargest independ-
ent beauty e-tailerand I’m proud of
that. The second is a fast-
growing shoe and handbagbusiness (justfab.com).
Everything on the site is $39.95(including shipping both ways). It’schanging the way women shop for
fashion accessories. Then there’s Sensa, our weight loss
program. This is a very unique productthat you sprinkle on your food, basedon 25 years of research and testing byDr. Alan Hirsch. By just eating normal-ly without diet or exercise, it results inan average weight loss of 30.5 pounds.It’s a very rewarding business becausewe’re impacting people’s health—2.5million people, in just three years!What have you learned aboutbrand building from your years inthe business?Although we live in a world of socialmedia and there are inexpensive ways toget messages out (bloggers, etc.), to getreal traction in a reasonable amount oftime you need to use multiple channels.It’s not like the old days where you’d puta product in a store, run a print cam-paign around it and you’re done. It now
requires a major investment com-bining new media with tele-
vision, print and radio(which I still like by theway…).
Of course, I’vealways believed instarting out online. I’ve
been saying that for thepast 14 years and people
originally thought I wascrazy…What mistakes do com-panies make whenbuilding a brand?A new brand is not likelyto succeed without majoradvertising investments
in multiple channels. Among the mis-takes that many companies make: 1)underestimating how much monetaryinvestment is needed to advertise; and2) believing that your brand can sur-vive based on social media alone. Socialmedia is a vital ancillary marketingstrategy but not an effective long-termcore business model. IM
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INTERNETENTREPRENUER DON
RESSLER WOULDRATHER WEAR ASUIT. BY KAREN
ALBERG GROSSMAN
Man of Style
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How can you tell if something’s agood idea before you invest?I believe in online consumer sur-veys. We generally use 500 to1,000 of our most loyal customers,a cost effective way to get informa-tion and to establish relationshipsin real time with your customers.
I’ve been wrong many times in pre-dicting how something will resonate,so I trust the customers’ instinctsmuch more than my own when itcomes to certain things.Describe your personal style.I’m 39 years old and for the past 10years, I’ve pretty much worn a suitto work every day and I’ll continue
to do so. I just feel it’s an impor-tant aspect of my position: impor-tant in creating relationships withother CEOs and execs, importantin commanding respect. There’s acertain image that I want for mycompany and I believe wearing agood suit helps establish that.
Our dress code here is Californiacasual but personally, I feel I needto represent the company in a pro-fessional way. I work with celebri-ties and CEOs all over the worldand I learned a long time ago thatyou never know who you’re goingto run into on any given day. I’dalways rather be overdressed thanunderdressed so if I’m wearing asuit, I’m always in a good place. Who are your favorite clothingdesigners or brands?I really enjoy wearing Isaia suits:they fit me well. I also love Brioni. Iused to think of Brioni as an olderman’s suit but I’ve grown to reallyappreciate them. (I guess I’m gettingolder...) I love their fabrics, and theirties also work really well for me.
As for shirts, I’m not loyal to asingle brand; it’s more about find-ing the right color and pattern. How many suits do you pur-chase a year?I don’t know. I rotate my suits so atany given time, I have at least 60or 70 good quality suits in my clos-et, both custom and off-the-rack indifferent fabrics, models andweights. If you ask Todd, my greatsalesman at GARYS, he’ll vouch forthe fact that I’m definitely willingto try new things. (But if it doesn’twork out, I wear it once…)
Other than suits, the wardrobecomponents that are important to
me are the right watch and the rightshoes. I’ve been wearing a PatekPhilippe watch that I love: I boughtit for myself when I was luckyenough to sell our first company.I’m assuming that down the road,one of my kids will end up with it…
My favorite shoes these days areBrioni that I had custom made.When you’re not working:you’re not in a suit I hope…My at-home attire is usually jeansand a T-shirt, or else sweats andworkout wear. For a night on thetown, I might wear a more casualsuit, perhaps something by Etro. You created a fitness businessearly in your career: what’syour personal fitness regimen?I sleep only an average of fourhours a night, then wake up earlyin the morning and work out atleast four times a week for twohours at a time (early in the morn-ing before I start my day).
I believe there’s really only oneway to stay healthy: eat less andexercise more. So no matter how
busy you are, create some time andfind that balance in life.Do you have mentors?Many years ago, I had the opportu-nity to meet Muhammad Ali. I wasinto boxing myself when I wasyoung and he was a larger-than-life figure to me at that time. Ibelieve his brilliance was his abili-ty to convince his opponent thathe’d won before the fight evenbegan. He had an incredible knackfor identifying his opponent’sweaknesses and using that knowl-edge to his advantage. It’s a strate-gy that’s often on my mind when Ilook at a business today.
My other hero is my wife Ginger:How she balances caring for ourfour kids and everything else shedoes is truly remarkable.Describe yourself to someonewho doesn’t know you.I’m hard-working, family-orientedand believe that loyalty is all-important. My business philoso-phy is that greatness comes fromcollaboration and teamwork.
What would I change aboutmyself? I wish I had an on-off but-ton for my brain. (But since I getmy best ideas at 3:00 a.m., thatmight not be so good…)You’re not yet 40; do you haveplans for life’s next chapter?I’m hoping to eventually winddown a bit. I love being aroundkids and coaching youth sports soI’d like to do more of that, and per-haps provide a state of the artfacility for kids in need.
As for the immediate future: abeach in Bora Bora with my familysounds pretty wonderful. But prob-ably without the Brioni suits…
I TRUST THE CUSTOMERS’ INSTINCTS MUCH MORE THAN MY OWN WHEN ITCOMES TO CERTAIN THINGS.”—DON RESSLER, CO-CEO, INTELLIGENT BEAUTY
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givi
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If so, we can help. Donate your clean, gently-used professionalor business casual clothing, footwear and accessories toWorking Wardrobes at any GARYS location. Working Wardrobes is a non-profit organization that serves men, women and teens who are emerging from alife crisis and are committed to re-entering the workforce. They also specialize in helping our veterans in transi-tion get back to work.
We accept men’s and women’s clothing, footwear and accessories, including handbags, and we ask that allclothes are dropped off on hangers. To learn more or to coordinate a donation, please contact Steve Loucks atGARYS (949.759.1622 / [email protected]). He will assist you in getting your donation delivered and makesure that you receive a receipt from GARYS and Working Wardrobes confirming your tax-deductible contribu-tion. You may also visit www.workingwardrobes.org for additional information regarding volunteer and sponsor-ship opportunities, special events and more.
We are proud to support this worthy cause, and we hope you’ll join us in giving back to our community.
DOES YOUR CLOSETLOOK LIKE THIS?
GARYS
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PERSONAL SHOPPINGAt your request, one of our salesassociates will pre-select garmentsthat fit your style and notify you oftheir arrival in the store.
MADE-TO-MEASUREWe proudly offer luxury hand-tai-lored garments personalized tosuit your individual taste and style.Your measurements are kept onfile and updated as needed, so anew garment can be specially cre-ated for you at any time. A widevariety of models and fabricationsare available from the followingbrands:
• Brioni• Canali• Ermenegildo Zegna• Isaia• Robert Talbott• Samuelsohn
TAILORINGOur on-site expert tailors will hap-pily work with you and your salesassociate to create the perfect fit.
WARDROBE CONSULTING & CLOSET CLEANINGIn order to help you better inte-grate your new seasonal purchaseswith the old, we offer our clients acomplimentary closet consultation.One of our professional sales asso-ciates will personally visit yourhome to inventory your closet, pro-viding suggestions on how to cre-atively mix and match your exist-ing wardrobe. One of our experi-
enced tailors can also be on handto provide any fitting or re-adjust-ments you may need. And, if youso desire, we will provide a photo-graphic catalogue of yourwardrobe for further reference.
HOME DELIVERY &SHIPPINGWe ship to anywhere in the UnitedStates. If you’re in town, we canhand deliver to your door foradded convenience.
GIFT CARDSOur tastefully presented gift cardsare available in any denomination.
GIFT WRAPWe offer complimentary gift wrapin our distinctive packaging for allyour purchases.
SHOP GARYS ONLINEOur world-class selection ofbrands is now available for pur-chase at garysonline.com. Justclick on “Online Store.”
SIGN UP FOR E-MAILAND LIKE US ON FACEBOOKGet the latest information on spe-cial events, in-store appearances,trunk shows and promotions.
AT YOUR SERVICE
Alex Perez,GARYS tailorfor over14 years
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go tofacebook.com/etonofsweden tell us your favorite thing about Garys and
be automatically entered into a drawing for a $500
eton shopping spree.
fine shirt maker since 1928
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Concierge 949.721.2000 ShopFashionIsland.com
OVER 120 STORES INCLUDING: Neiman Marcus . Nordstrom . Bloomingdale’s . Macy’s . Ever
Malia Mills Swimwear . Lululemon Athletica . Kate Spade . True Food Kitchen . Inglot . Michael Stars
be FASHIONABLY engaging.
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Fashion Island is a registered trademark of the Irvine Company. © The Irvine Company LLC, 2011.
Elie Tahari . Trina Turk . Jonathan Adler . Kreiss . 7 For All Mankind . Splendid . True Religion
Apple . Fleming’s Steakhouse & Wine Bar . Melvita . American Rag Cie . Garys . Traditional Jewelers
Kwiat earring, Rolex watch at Traditional Jewelers.
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GARYS ISLANDSHOP-IN-SHOP
FEATURING
Reyn Spooner, Nat Nast, Tommy Bahama, Tori Richard, Kahala, Bills Khakis, Thomas Dean,
True Grit, OluKai, Sperry, Maui Jim and more!
FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH949.759.1622
www.garysonline.com
GARYS
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360CommercialRE.com | 949.296.3650
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Time to Buy: Want to lock in long-term savings for your business? Now is the time to buy, with prices at market bottom, historically low interest rates, and widely available SBA financing creating the ideal scenario for purchasing an office or industrial property. You’ll gain a hedge against future lease rate hikes and realize tax and bottom-line benefits.
Time to Sell: Thinking of selling your commercial real estate asset? 360 Commercial Partners has active buyers and investors in the market seeking both office and industrial properties. We can broker your transaction off-market or apply our industry-leading
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Contact 360 Commercial Partners today and let the industry’s most trusted advisors lead you to your real estate goals.
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Q:My girlfriend has been buying mescarves but I have no idea how to
wear them. Are they in style?Yes, more than ever! Whether cashmere or wool, bulky handknits or fine gauge with fringe, bright solids or patterned alpinedesigns, a scarf is the easiest way to add personality to yourlook. The trick to wearing them: don’t overthink it! Just wrapyour favorite scarf around your neck a few times, or try theEuropean way: fold a long scarf in half, drape it around yourneck, and pull the ends through the loop. Voila! Instant panache.And don’t wait for the snowstorms: a beautiful scarf is a greatfashion accent, whatever the weather.
Q:Magazines show bright color pants,yet on the streets, most guys wear
jeans or khakis. What’s up with the color? Bright colors (best in slim five-pocket models) are definitely anew direction for men’s trousers, most popular with contempo-rary customers and guys with self-confidence. If you dare, givethem a try: color is fun, mood-elevating and not all that hard towear. (Nantucket red has been a staple in New England fordecades...) If you’re not so bold, try the new five-pocket modelsin neutral shades, in non-denim fabrics like brushed twill andcorduroy. With more options than ever in casual trousers,there’s no need to be boring—or bored.
Q:Why buy clothing in a specialty storewhen so much is available online?
While shopping online can be tempting, there are many caveats.First of all, not all designers produce the same quality goods forall accounts. So a designer polo from a flash sale or discountsite or outlet store might be a different weight or color than the“same” designer polo in an upscale store. Second, at independ-ent specialty stores like ours, you work with store owners andtrained tailors and wardrobe consultants whose reputationdepends on making you look terrific. Most also offer free closetmakeovers: they’ll come to your home, sort through your closetand update your wardrobe with a new piece or two to bring it alltogether. In addition, store owners stand behind their product,so you’ll never get stuck with an impulse-purchase-gone-wrong.
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luKai constructs quality footwear forthose living a quality life. The brandwas conceived from a desire to createa better class of products for the life
we live in and around the water. Down to thelast stitch, OluKai builds products withunwavering attention to detail.
OluKai offers a full range of premiumfootwear and sandals for men, women andchildren. Their footwear and sandals comein two collections: Makai, which means“Towards the Water,” are made of perform-ance synthetics ideal for activities in andaround the water. Mauka, which means“Towards the Land,” are crafted from thefinest quality, high-character leathers.
“We created OluKai to address a personalneed for authentic ocean lifestyle footwearthat was comfortable and well designed,”says Bill Worthington, co-founder of OluKai.“When it came to developing the brand, we
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OluKai
“WE CREATED OLUKAI TO ADDRESS A PERSONAL NEED FOR AUTHENTIC OCEANLIFESTYLE FOOTWEAR THAT WAS COMFORTABLE AND WELL DESIGNED.”—BILL WORTHINGTON, CO-FOUNDER
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wanted to create some-thing with the sophistica-tion of a luxury brand, butwith an approachabilitythat more people can actu-ally relate to.”
In addition to makinggreat footwear, OluKai iscommitted to respectingthe people and the environ-ments they touch. InPolynesian culture there isa strong tradition of givingan offering or tribute.OluKai’s philosophy is tosupport the efforts of thosewho continue to give backto preserve local culturesand traditions. They arecommitted to being envi-ronmentally responsible
manufacturers, and havepledged to actively supportand work for a clean envi-ronment and a better quali-ty of life.
Mauka or Makai, OluKaihas created a family offootwear that fully comple-ments the active, oceanlifestyle. With each designand in every pair of OluKaifootwear and sandals, thedeep-rooted OluKaiessence of premium mate-rials, quality construction,inspired details and unpar-alleled comfort are con-stantly present.
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y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans inthe world; that’s still our mission today,” assertsAgave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eightjeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a recordfor us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retired
from the business 16 years ago to raise our son Jacob) is back asdesigner of women’s. We’ve become a true luxury label focused onUSA-made quality product.”
How do you compete with bigger brands?I knew the secret of making the best jeans was inthe denim. I found the best denims from boutiquemills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partner-ing with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with pro-duction and laundry in L.A. that made jeans forLevi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentical-
ly and accurately. Agave stands for the highestquality jeans, made authentically in the USA. Our customers
know this and appreciate our commitment.
How tough is it to work with your spouse?I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Twocompanies ago we started working together: I was theowner and she was doing production. We hit tough timesand had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged me
to do the design myself; she actually taught me how. Ifound my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying to get
her back to work with me for a long time. Last September, ourson Eli started high school and she finally agreed. Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t
compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.
We have the same taste level but complementary skills. Weshare values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.
What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011?The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo,black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excite-ment is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocketmodels, washed down to a beautiful patina.
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Above: Jeff andLauren ShaferLeft: Items fromAgave’s men’sand women’s fallcollections
A DECADE OF AGAVE
AUGUST 2012 WILLMARK THE 10-YEAR
ANNIVERSARY OFAMERICA’S COOLEST
DENIM. BY KARENALBERG GROSSMAN
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ward
robe 1941
Humphrey Bogart in The Maltese FalconDetective Sam Spade: cunningsleuth, dapper dresser
1962Sean Connery in Dr. NoA rare casual moment for 007, who dons a tuxedomore often than not. Whatever the occasion, hisfirearm (in this case, a Smith & Wesson CentennialAirweight) is never far from sight.
1974Robert Redford in The Great GatsbyRalph Lauren outfitted the entirecast for the movie adaptation ofF. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic novel.
1959Cary Grant in North by Northwest Proof positive that youcan still look put togetherand polished while runningfrom the bad guys.
70 YEARS OF CINEMATIC STYLE BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE
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1980John Belushi and Dan Akroyd in TheBlues Brothers
1994Jim Carrey and JeffDaniels in Dumb and Dumber
2007Rowan Atkinsonin Mr. Bean’sHoliday
SUITS CAN’T SAVE YOU NOWTHESE MEMORABLE MOVIE GOOFBALLSPROVE THAT YOU CAN DRESS THEM UP, BUTYOU CAN’T TAKE THEM OUT.
1987Michael Douglas in Wall StreetFat ties—and fat wallets—epitomized the1980s. The pleated pants popular thenare just starting to reappear on runways,but haven’t yet made it mainstream.
2001George Clooney and Brad Pitt inOcean’s ElevenUnbuttoned elegance as the bigscreen’s most charismatic criminals
1992The cast of Reservoir DogsThese guys were ahead of the trend in slim suits and ties.
2011The cast of The Adjustment BureauWhile overcoats and fedoras are classics,the style in multiples is downrightintimidating. These men mean business!
1980Richard Gere in American GigoloArmani became a household nameafter outfitting gigolo Julian in hissignature suits.
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dward Armah isnot your typicalfashion designer.Born in Ghana(his dad was a civil servant, his mom had a clothing business),he studied economics and political science but dropped it all forsewing school. (Needless to say, his family was not thrilled…) Hespent some time in London working on Jermyn Street where he
mastered the art of English sartorial dressing (“it’s all about propor-tion”), then came to the States and studied tailoring. Working at anexclusive department store, Armah would get more compliments on theclothes he was wearing, particularly his colorful bowties and pocketsquares, than on the clothes he was selling. So with a little help from hisfriends, he quit his day job and launched his own business, patenting aningeniously engineered silk bowtie that can be worn four different ways(and is uniquely shaped for a fuller bow).
His bowties and pocket squares (that he first made in the basement ofhis house in New Jersey) were an instant hit, but Armah longed to createsomething different. On a whim, he once wore a lace doily in his pocketand got barraged with compliments. So he made up a few pocket “circles”and a new business was born. Today, he produces about 500 pocket cir-cles a week, all made by artisans in NYC. Linen was hot this summer; forfall 2011, he’s using Italian silk and cashmere/wool, and fringed edges.
When he’s not traveling around the country to the finest stores inAmerica, Armah loves spending time with his wife and 18-month-old son,Manasse. He’s also very involved with organizations like Big BrothersBig Sisters, where he teaches school-age kids to follow their dreams.
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POCKET CIRCLES (AND BOWTIES)ARE THE NEW FOOLPROOF WAYTO DRESS FASHIONABLY. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
DON’T BESQUARE
A pocket circleadds instant cooland charisma toyour sportcoat.(And you can’tpossibly fold itwrong!)
prof
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“THE ACCESSORIESMAKE THE SUIT,”SAYS DESIGNER
EDWARD ARMAH.
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Fall 2011 has us dreamingabout texture... lush knits, comfy cashmeres, velvety cords. So many soft waysto stay warm this fall...
life is but a
PHOTOGRAPHY: Sergio Kurhajek | STYLING: Wendy McNett | HAIR & MAKEUP: Claire Bailey
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DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM AAAAAAAAAAAAA LLLLLLLLLLLLLLIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTLLLLLLLLLLLLLEEEEEEEEEEEE DDDDDDDDDDDDDDRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM OOOOOOOOOOOOFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF.........
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WHYSTYLE MATTERSMaking a good impressionhas never been more important. Nor has it ever been easier!
Studies show that well-dressed men
get higher paying jobs, enjoy better
social status and are more attractive to
the opposite sex.
Here are some simple tips on how
to spruce up your look, because
yes, style matters!
StyleMattersF.indd 1StyleMattersF.indd 1 7/19/11 9:11 AM7/19/11 9:11 AM
BUILDING A GREATWARDROBE IS SIMPLERTHAN YOU THINK.
WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL
FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS)
CAN BE BUILT.
1. Dressy Casual 2. Sartorial 3. Sporty Casual
simple updates forall your modes...
StyleMattersF.indd 2StyleMattersF.indd 2 7/19/11 9:11 AM7/19/11 9:11 AM
Plaid ClassicA great neutral
plaid adds instant
style to jeans and
moves gracefully
from offi ce to
dinner.
Color StatementA bolder plaid
in rich fall colors
adds excitement
to solid basics
and layers well
with sweaters.
THE ESSENTIAL SPORTCOATTHE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL
Dressy Casual
No single item is more effective in transforming
a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes
a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and
concealing all the right body parts...
StyleMattersF.indd 3StyleMattersF.indd 3 7/19/11 9:11 AM7/19/11 9:11 AM
UnconstructedA soft, unlined
jacket is an
indispensible
basic this season.
It looks casually
elegant and fi ts like
a second skin!
CollegiateCorduroyToasty warm and
versatile, corduroy
has come back
with a vengeance.
Soft CashmereUnconstructed
and elegant, it
works with dress
pants, jeans and
everything in
between.
StyleMattersF.indd 4StyleMattersF.indd 4 7/19/11 9:11 AM7/19/11 9:11 AM
The IntellectualAdd a sweater
to a windowpane
wool suit for a
super smart look.
The Young TurkA well-cut dark
suit can take you
everywhere... and
a great wool tie is
an easy way
to add some
personality.
The PlayerA fun shirt (without
a tie) with an open
suit jacket is a
refreshing
upgrade
to jeans.
Sartorial
FITThe New
Slimmer
Silhouette
is here
to stay
From a fi rst interview to the corner offi ce,
one properly fi tting neutral suit in a transitional
fabric is an essential basic for the well-
dressed man.
(NEW)
StyleMattersF.indd 5StyleMattersF.indd 5 7/19/11 9:11 AM7/19/11 9:11 AM
The StatesmanHerringbone in
warm fall tones
plus a buttoned
vest spells
confi dence.
The MogulNavy pinstripe
suit, blue shirt,
red tie, slim cut...
need we say
more?
whichSUITSyou?
StyleMattersF.indd 6StyleMattersF.indd 6 7/19/11 9:11 AM7/19/11 9:11 AM
Sporting Event With ClientA quilted, fi tted,
double-breasted
jacket is as warm
as it is fl attering.
Weekend OutingCold, blustery
days can be faced
in style with an
elegant update to
the classic parka.
StyleMattersF.indd 7StyleMattersF.indd 7 7/19/11 9:11 AM7/19/11 9:11 AM
Soccer SidelinesThrow a great
scarf over a
versatile pullover
and be the
best looking
dad on the fi eld.
Country DriveGo antiquing and
lunching in style in
a chocolate suede
driving jacket,
also perfect for
everyday.
Sporty Casual
RELAXEDSTYLE
Whether it’s
the weekend,
or you just
want it to
feel that way.
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COLD COMFORTA
s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time forwinter sports, a cozy new coat and aheart-warming cocktail. After ice skating,
cross country skiing or snowshoeing at theLake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondackmountains, guests keep out the chill with thehotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. BartenderLori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater,shares the recipe for this snug concoction.Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz.Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of NewYork State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mixvodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrupin a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fash-ioned glass. Top with cream and garnish witha mint leaf. Cheers!L
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Experience life’s little luxuries. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
GREEK REVIVALA
few steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slightrise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene isquiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi
monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brillianttuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member ofHistoric Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from theoriginal dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditionalCretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as iftime had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.
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COUNTRY CHICI
n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eight-room house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel JohnBowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s
the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection ofEnglish and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular withantiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) toshop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, JayneThompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’sRestaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients andpaired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning diningroom filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-centu-ry Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with EnglishIronstone china.
GILT TRIPA
long with golf, rock climbing and fly fishing,guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at the foot ofthe Rockies in Colorado Springs can go for
the gold. The sparkling festivities begin in a chauf-feured Hummer (gold-flecked handcrafted choco-lates and a bottle of Champagne are provided),which brings you to the Money Museum. Here,caterers serve dinner in the Bass Gallery, whereover $20 million dollars worth of paper money andrare coins, including the most comprehensive col-lection of American gold coinage in existence, isstored. Between courses, the curator of the muse-um joins guests and passes around several million dollars in coins and notes. The Broadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminatesat the hotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef RémyFünfrock, and director of wine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.
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A STRETCH OF BEACHA
mong the many trendy—and usually pricey—goings-on in Miami, there’s one very stylish eventthat’s amazingly inexpensive. For just $5, resi-
dents and visitors, serious yoga practitioners and firsttimers alike, can join certified instructors for “BeachYoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ultimate SouthBeach insider happening, which attracts vacationingBroadway stars and fashion editors, among others, hasbeen meeting every day at sunrise and sunset for thepast 12 years. Take water and a towel, and spend anhour reaching new horizons. D
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SIMON MULLIGAN, PIANISTWhen a lady with a piano moved in next door to the Mulligans inWest London, Simon wandered over and started picking out tunes.The Mulligans were quite surprised since, at three years old, Simonhad never taken a lesson; they had a piano prodigy on their hands.
Simon went on to study at the Royal Academy of Music and was“discovered” by legendary violinist Yehudi Menuhin. He hastoured with cellist Lynn Harrell and violinist Joshua Bell. Whetherplaying classical or jazz, Simon remarks, “It’s a thrill to work withmusicians from different backgrounds and countries. Whether atthe Cornelia Street Café in New York or on a huge concert stage, Ilove sitting down at the piano and sharing the music.”PERSONAL STYLE: “On stage, I wear a suit made for me by Sir HardyAmies, famed Savile Row tailor to the royals, or bespoke suits fromanother Savile Row house, William Hunt. Off stage, the word ‘met-rosexual’ was coined for me.”MUSICAL TASTE: “Tower of Power, Steely Dan, Joe Cocker, Tom Jonesand Amy Winehouse.”FOOD & WINE: “I love to cook, particularly hearty dishes paired withgreat wine. I also pride myself on getting my young son, Jasper, toeat foods he claims to hate.”FOR FUN: “Host dinner parties, where I cook and play the piano.”VACATION SPOTS: “Corsica, or wine country in France.”
COLIN JACOBSEN, VIOLINISTERIC JACOBSEN, CELLISTThe Jacobsen brothers were lucky from a musicalstandpoint: their father, Edmund Jacobsen, was first violinist and associate concertmaster of theMetropolitan Opera orchestra in New York. Theirmother, Ivy, was a flutist and music teacher.
As kids, they fell in love with music listeningto the musicians at their parents’ “sight reading” parties. Now, in addition to their solo careers, theJuilliard-trained Jacobsens are part of a stringquartet, Brooklyn Rider, and a 30-piece orchestra,
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music
Left: PianistSimon Mulliganloves to playanything byBeethoven.Below: EricJacobsen
CLASSICALCOOLYOUNG MUSICIANSWITH STYLE BYJACQUELIN CARNEGIE
These four talented musicians love toshare the joy of music. You may nothave heard of them yet—but you will!
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The Knights, conducted by Eric. They are also mem-bers of Yo-Yo Ma’s prestigious Silk Road Ensemble,which promotes cross-cultural musical exchanges.PERSONAL STYLE: Colin: “With the Silk Road Ensemble, Iwear a linen or silk shirt in ‘spice’ colors with darkslacks. With The Knights, it’s a suit and tie. The gen-tlemen of Brooklyn Rider like the vintage 1920s look.Off stage, I wear a fedora.”Eric: “On stage, I dress quite formally in custom-madeRalph Lauren suits and off-the-rack ones from Theory
that fit my 6’3” frame perfectly. A young designer,Megan Garrity, has also created outfits for me to wearin concert. Off stage, I’m in jeans.”MUSICAL TASTE: Colin: “Indie folk singers, world musiclike Iranian kamancheh player Kayhan Kalhor andBrazilian singer/guitarist Joao Gilberto, early-20thcentury classical recordings, The Beatles, Radiohead.”Eric: “Classical music and a new, young singer namedChristina Courtin.”FOOD & WINE: Eric: “I cook Italian dishes and always livenear a good butcher shop and a fresh fish market.”Colin: “I like to eat what Eric cooks.”FOR FUN: Colin: “Hiking, playing the ukulele, playingtennis, and hanging out with my wife Maile.”Eric: “Cooking and holding sight reading parties.”VACATION SPOTS: Colin: “Italy, including the AeolianIslands near Sicily, Hawaii and the fjords in Norway.”Eric: “Because of the constant touring, quiet vacationsin places during the off-season.”
NILKO ANDREAS GUARIN,CLASSICAL GUITARISTWhen Andreas was just a little boy, his father put onan old vinyl recording of the great cellist MstilavRostropovich; he was captivated by the sound.
At seven, Andreas began studying cello at theNational Conservatory of Music in Colombia, where,for fun, he’d strum the guitar. It was another record-ing, by the illustrious Andrés Segovia, that ultimatelydrew him to the classical guitar. And when theManhattan School of Music offered him a scholarshipto study it, he moved to the U.S. Andreas is now asadept at composing as playing, and has written musicfor film and theater. He’s worked with guitarists MarcRibot and Dan Zanes, Colombian singer Toto laMomposina, and will tour Europe in 2012 withAustrian violist Firmian Lermer. “I’m overjoyed whenI perform,” says Andreas. “It’s a blessing doing whatyou love most.”PERSONAL STYLE: “For a classical concert, I wear a darksuit with a bright scarf, or tails when the performancerequires it. Off stage, black is most practical in NewYork, but I always dress it up with a colorful scarf.”MUSICAL TASTE: “Classical; world music such as YoussouN’Dour from Senegal; the late flamenco singerCamarón de la Isla; traditional Colombian music.Also, Jimi Hendrix, The Beatles and lots of jazz.”FOOD & WINE: “French cuisine—artichokes with butterand steak tartare—or a good Argentine steak with aglass of Tempranillo from Spain’s Rioja region.”FOR FUN: “Improvising music with friends. Readingbiographies about people I admire such as the greatItalian composer Nino Rota—very inspiring! Seeingart films, walking in Central Park and playing soccer.”BEST VACATION SPOTS: “Paris, Rio de Janeiro, Colombia.”
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Right: ColinJacobsen hasenjoyed playingmusic since hewas a child.Bottom: Nilko AndreasGuarin
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IS IT SELF-EXPRESSION OR NARCISSISM? EITHER WAY, DESIGNER HOTELS ANDRESTAURANTS ARE FASHION’S NEWEST HOT SPOTS. BY WILLIAM KISSEL
HauteHOSPITALITYIn the 1970s fashion designers were satisfied to have their names scrawled on the back pockets of your jeans.Over the ensuing decade, they discovered a way to put their stamp on everything from fragrance, sunglassesand leather goods to furniture and bedding. Now they want you to experience their own lavish lifestyles byenveloping you in their signature luxury hotel suites and posh dining rooms.
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The trend escalated this pastyear when nearly a dozen newhotels were autographed by topdesigners—from Giorgio Armani’ssleek, ambitious Armani HotelDubai and Bulgari’s bucolicBalinese retreat, to Missoni’s styl-ish Scottish hideaway andChristian Lacroix’s French boulan-gerie-turned-bed and breakfast.
It’s not only the newest way topropagate their names: designersinsist the evanescent hotel or din-ing experience acts as a kind of“live-in portfolio” of their work.
Giorgio Armani features custom-made furniture and decorativeobjects from his Armani/Casahome collection in his namesakehotels, the second of which isscheduled to open in Milan earlynext year. “I wanted to see how thecollection would look whenapplied to real spaces,” says thedesigner, who adds that the ideagives hotel guests an opportunityto sample the furnishings in a liv-ing situation before investing inthem for their own homes.Recognizable designer fabrics andfurnishings also encourage gueststo form an emotional connectionwith the hotel—and the brand.
And while hotels offer the oppor-tunity to live like Armani orVersace for days or even weeks,
restaurants can offer the same“lifestyle experience” in a matterof hours. Take Ralph Lauren,whose fashion forays range fromthe highbrow sartorial chic ofLondon’s Savile Row to the RockyMountain highs of Colorado.Inside Ralph’s, located in thedesigner’s Paris store, Laurenbrings his idealizedworld to life. Thechic eatery isinfused with hissignatureBritish-Americanastamp, from thevintage leatherseating and eques-trian-themed artworkright down to the menu,which includes beefraised on Lauren’s own RRL Ranch.“The story of the menu is like theclassic film An American in Paris,”says Lauren. “The food is genuine-ly American, but set in a mood thatis genuinely international.”
In a more flashy setting, designduo Domenico Dolce and StefanoGabbana imbued their Milaneserestaurant Gold with a mix of exot-ic materials—pink and grayarabesque-patterned marble, highgloss steel, gold leather—that theyconsider to be architectural equiv-
alents of their clothing. While today’s designers would
like you to believe they inventedthe haute hospitality trend, thathonor actually goes to PierreCardin, who bought the fashion-able French bistro Maxims in 1981and has subsequently turned itinto an international brand. “I sus-
pect if you look hardenough you could find
Pierre Cardin’s nameon a screwdriver,”jokes Americandesigner ToddOldham, whoseown foray into the
hospitality gamestarted in 1999 with
the opening of The Hoteland its adjoining Wish restau-
rant in Miami, and continued thisyear with the christening of 20 newsuites. Oldham is now in negotia-tions to design a hotel in Chicago.
“It’s very smart of developers tofind tastemakers from other [cre-ative] areas who can enhance thehotel experience,” says Oldham,who believes fashion designers arenaturally more sensitive to aes-thetics, form and function thantypical hotel designers. “Becausewe tend to focus on making youlook good, we can also make youlook good in a room.”
Previous page,clockwise from
top left: BottegaVeneta for the St.
Regis in Rome;Dolce & Gabbana
Gold restaurantin Milan; the bar
at Gold Below, left:
Cavalli Club,Florence
Right: RalphLauren’s Ralph’srestaurant, Paris
DESIGNER FABRICSAND FURNISHINGS
ENCOURAGE GUESTS TOFORM AN EMOTIONAL
CONNECTION WITH THEHOTEL—AND THE BRAND.
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BLUE IS THE NEW GREEN.
IF THE CAR IN YOUR DREAMS IS NOT THE CAR IN YOUR GARAGE,
LET’S TALK!The New 2011 ML350
BlueTEC SUV
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arlier this year, an exhibit called Guitar Heroes: LegendaryCraftsmen from Italy to New York opened at theMetropolitan Museum of Art. Featured were the handcraftedguitars of three 20th-century Italian-American master crafts-men: John D’Angelico, James D’Aquisto and JohnMonteleone, who from workshops in NYC sought to carry onthe traditions of centuries-old European masters.
In preserving these age-old techniques, these craftsmen haveinspired a new generation. Among the best, Jens Ritter is a young Germanluthier from the quiet village of Deidesheim, near the RhineRiver in the heart of Germany’s wine country.
Ritter, who pro-duces 50 to 60 instru-ments a year with thehelp of a single skilledassistant, introduced his firstbass guitars in 1995. They causedan immediate sensation based on theirsheer beauty, innovative designs andremarkable sound. The exquisitelines and symmetry of his instru-
ments are simply breathtaking; his fertile imagination has yieldeddesigns from medieval to futuristic. Add in the warmth and beauty ofexotic hardwoods and other natural materials (sometimes even preciousgemstones!) or the stark high-tech sleekness of mixed synthetics, and it’sclear why Ritter’s guitars are coveted by top players (George Benson, PhilLesh, Josh Dunham) around the world.
We recently caught up with Ritter, who was in New York City to to see the GuitarHeroes exhibit at the Met and for this exclusive interview with Forum magazine.
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LIKE FINE CUSTOM CLOTHING,A GUITAR BY JENS RITTER IS ONE-OF-A-KIND, HANDCRAFTED, STEEPEDIN TRADITION. BY BILL WEISS
GUITAR HERO
Known as theGermanStradivari, JensRitter pushesthe limits ofhis craft.
icons
“I’M NOT KNOWN FOR FOLLOWING RULES; IPREFER TO EXPERIMENT WITH NEW IDEAS.”
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How did you get started?I played bass in a band as ateenager and was never happywith the instruments. I didn’t havethe money to buy an expensivebass guitar so I tried to modifyparts of my instrument to make itbetter, like changing the electron-ics and eventually cutting and saw-ing the body to change the shapeand weight and maybe improve theergonomics. Eventually I was ableto buy some high quality wood andspent lots of time designing andbuilding my own bass. It helpedthat my grandfather was a wood-worker who taught me how to han-dle wood and treat wood surfaces.
What makes your instru-ments so special?They’re super custom-made butwithin aesthetic limits, kind of likea custom suit. I’m not knownfor following traditional rulesand I love to pursue newdesigns, try new woods,experiment with new sur-faces. Sometimes I’ll try devel-oping a new instrument formyself or to demonstrate at atrade show, and the responsemight lead to new ideas.
Are your instruments art?Once considered a functional tool,the guitar is now a huge culturalsymbol, a valued entity in itself.Years back, the guitar heroes werethe musicians who played theinstruments, not the craftsmen whodesigned and built them. Think ofJimi Hendrix: He’d pour lighterfluid on his guitar and burn it onstage, like he did in 1967 at thefamous Monterey Pop Festival.Today those guitars are famous ontheir own; even burned ones havesold for hundreds of thousands of
dollars, just so someone can hangthem on their wall as a holy relic.What was once a simple tool of themusician has evolved into function-al art, achieving its own identity asa cultural symbol.
I’m very gratified that mydesigns are perceived as art at thesame time they’re played on stagesall over the world. On occasion,I’ve sold instruments to art collec-tors and museums for display only.
What are you working onthese days?I’m mostly filling orders from thetrade shows in L.A. and Frankfurt,but I’m also developing a new gui-tar model scheduled for release inJanuary 2012, and creating a newsignature six-string bass guitar forThe Grateful Dead’s Phil Lesh.
What’s the best part of yourwork?To be immersed in inter-
national culture isan incredible blessing. To possiblyinfluence it—now that’s intense!
Above: A colorful
example ofRitter’s more
outrageous side Below: Mary J.Blige is one ofmany celebrity
clients.
I’M VERY GRATIFIED THAT MY DESIGNS ARE PERCEIVED AS ART AT THESAME TIME THEY’RE PLAYED ON STAGES ALL OVER THE WORLD.”
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e live in an excit-ing time when itcomes to drinks.The so-calledCocktailRevolution, invok-ing premium spir-its, fresh ingredi-
ents and careful measures, hasevolved beyond trendy neo-
speakeasies to rooftop lounges andnightclubs. But this revolution isalso an evolution, for ‘round thecorner, another intrepid bartenderis crafting the next big drink.
Organic Ingredients: Five years ago,only a handful of organic spiritsexisted. Today there are organictequilas, vodkas, single malts, bit-
ters, even sake. “To get USDA cer-tification is very hard,” says HenrySiedel of Chikurin, the onlyJapanese sake to hold that distinc-tion. Not only does the rice need tobe grown sans pesticides, but irri-gation floodwaters from neighbor-ing farms have to be gunk-free aswell. In most cases, you’re doingmore to protect the environment
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FASTER THAN YOU CAN ORDER A MANHATTAN, ANOTHER COCKTAILTREND AWAITS YOU. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
CUTTING-EDGECOCKTAILS
This may seem like an ordinarygin and tonic, but it features of-the-moment bar trends likehand-cracked Kold Draft ice,fresh small-bottle tonic, andtrendy Copa glassware.
spiri
ts
THIS REVOLUTION ISALSO AN EVOLUTION,
FOR ‘ROUND THECORNER, ANOTHER
INTREPID BARTENDERIS CRAFTING THE NEXT
BIG DRINK.
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than your own body. But still, whoneeds Monsanto in their Mojito?
Says Paul Abercrombie, authorof Organic, Shaken and Stirred(Harvard Common Press, 2009):“People [should] care about what’sin their glass, the same way theycare about what’s on their plate.”
Aged Cocktails: The hottest geektrend of 2011: mixing up batches ofclassic cocktails, dropping theminto used whiskey barrels or othercontainers, and aging for severalweeks. Jeffrey Morgenthaler, barmanager at Portland’s ClydeCommon, is widely credited forkicking off the trend in the U.S.
Aging a cocktail does the samething as aging whiskey or tequila:“The edges are softened, but not ina way that makes the drink seemflabby,” says Morgenthaler.
“Anything with vermouth or forti-fied wine will be lightly oxidizedand gain earthy notes that lend a lotof depth.” A second- or third-usebarrel, like a bourbon or sherry cask,will also influence the final drink.
You’ll find aged cocktails in top-tier bars around the country,including the Boxcar Bar (Austin),
Girl & The Goat (Chicago), GrantHotel (San Diego, where guestscan purchase aged cocktails by thebottle), and Summit Bar(Manhattan). London’s Artesianbar, meanwhile, is mashing two hottrends by offering barrel-aged MaiTais featuring clarified lime juice.
Act quickly if you hear of a newbarrel being tapped at yourfavorite watering hole: Innovativebatches can be drained in a singlenight by thirsty fans.
Farm-to-Bar: As in the restaurantworld, bartenders are hot on local,farm-fresh ingredients. “Guestslove a drink with a homegrownangle,” says Evan Powell, themixologist for Fish restaurant inCharleston, SC. “I grow about adozen herbs, including chocolatemint, lemon thyme and shiso.” AtIdaho’s Shore Lodge in McCall, thestaff picks wild huckleberries formixologist John Wood’shuckleberry mojito. Meanwhile, inSan Francisco, the Fairmont israising its own honeybees andusing the fresh honey in cocktails.And Murf Reeves at New Orleans’Sylvain puts his 15 years as a cook
to good use behind the bar,emphasizing regional foodpairings with mixed drinks.
House-Made Mixers: “Bitters is one ofthe three major components ofclassic cocktails,” says James Leeof Boulder, CO’s Bitter Bar. Theonce-ubiquitous astringent infu-sions are now used mostly toenhance aromas in cocktails. “Youcan’t really substitute forAngostura or Peychaud’s wherethey’re called for, but otherwise,the sky’s the limit.” Lee and histeam make their own bitters usingingredients like Japanese five-spice, grapefruit and (in season)Rainier cherry bitters. At the newLexington Social House in L.A.,you’ll find house-made yuzu, laven-der and orange bitters, along withThai chili-infused simple syrupand even their own version of PopRocks to rim glasses.
For the new Theater Bar in NewYork City, owner/bartender AlbertTrummer takes the house-madeconcept to new heights. The barmakes all its own liqueurs, tinc-tures, bitters and more, co-createdwith a doctor versed in homeo-pathic medicine. “Cordials thathave artificial colorings and sweet-eners sit on your liver, along withthe alcohol,” says Theater bar-tender Duane Fernandez. “At theend of the day, even with cocktails,you want the most natural productyou can have in your body.”
What’s coming up next? We’realready witnessing single filteredvodkas that actually have flavor,craft distilleries in almost everystate, and 18th-century punchbowls that seduce scenesters anddrinkers alike. Drop in to yourfavorite bar to discover what yourown Mad Mixologist is concocting.
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Both complexpunch bowls andobscure Europeandigestifs takecenter stage incocktails at manyof the trendiestbars around thecountry.
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t’s a crisp fall day, perfect fora bike ride in the park orbrunch with friends at an out-door cafe. But thanks to theFrench Culinary Institute, Iam instead joining 200 otherfood enthusiasts at the thirdannual New York Culinary
Experience. The event raisesmoney for the The Future ChefsScholarship Fund, enabling aspir-ing chefs to attend culinary insti-tutes. It’s also a unique opportu-
nity to spend two days with theworld’s most renowned chefs.
For foodies, tasting a truly greatdish is pure bliss. But cooking sideby side with illustrious chefs likeTodd English, Morimoto, MarcusSamuelsson and Jacques Torres,among many others, is ecstacy.
Participants attend two classeseach day. Between morning andafternoon sessions, lunch seminarsfeature conversations with
key experts. In the evening, winereceptions and tastings provide yetanother opportunity to get up-closeand personal with culinary heroes.
Unlike other “fantasy foodcamps” I’ve attended, these classeswere truly interactive. For starters,a pastry class with Gina di Palma,who insists that baking need notbe an exact science: even if resultsvary, it will likely still be
PURE HEAVEN FOR A FASHION FOODIE. BY SUSAN F. SIDOR
COOKING WITHTHE STARS
food
WINE RECEPTIONS AND TASTINGS PROVIDE AN OPPORTUNITY TO GET UP-CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH CULINARY HEROES.
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delicious! Next, bouillabaisse withAlain Sahlac, Dean of the FrenchCulinary Institute, a warm, gentleFrenchman who instructed us inthe fine art of putting lobsters tosleep. Then we prepared pan roast-ed duck and asparagus with Comtécheese foam with David Bouley, afan of healthful artisanal cooking.
My final class was Thanksgiving-themed, led by superstar chef ToddEnglish, whose demonstrationswere entertaining and informativewith a side order of dry humor. Tobreak with the whole-bird tradi-tion, we made a cornbread stuffedboneless roast turkey breast (andeven took home ingredients forour own Thanksgiving feasts).
After spending my entire careeraround fashion’s who’s who, thesewonderful food masters havebecome my new rockstars. Iremain their ever-devoted groupie.
Previous page,left: David Bouleywith his students
Right: Panroasted duck
This page, left:Todd English
slices stuffedturkey breast. Right: English
tops off hispumpkin lasagna.
The next NewYork Culinary
Experience willbe held on April28th and 29th,
2012. [email protected]
to request moreinformation.
PUMPKIN LASAGNARecipe by Todd EnglishServes 2
Ingredients:1 sugar pumpkin7 sheets blanched rosemary pasta(substitute 7 sheets fresh pasta)1/2 cup mascarpone cheese1/4 cup ground amaretti cookie1/4 cup ground almonds1/2 cup parmesan cheese, gratedbutternut squash sauce watercress, for garnish
For the Butternut Squash Sauce:(Yields 1 quart)1 butternut squash1 sprig rosemary, choppedsalt and pepper, to taste2 cups half and half2 cups heavy cream2 oz. butter1/4 cup maple syrup
Directions: Peel the squash and dice into large
pieces. Place the squash in saucepot and add the liquids and rose-mary. Slowly cook until the squashbecomes soft. Drain off the liquidand reserve. Place the squash intoblender. Add just enough liquid tocover, then blend and add butter.Adjust seasoning and consistency.
Next, slice top off pumpkin, scoopout seeds and any membrane.Clean seeds and toast separately.Roast pumpkin at 400°F for 40minutes, or until inside meat iscooked. Turn oven down to 350°F.Toss pasta in butternut squashsauce. Lay one sheet of pasta inthe bottom of the pumpkin. Spread1-2 tablespoons of mascarponecheese on top, then sprinkle alayer of cookie, almond andparmesan. Continue layering untilpumpkin is filled. Top with parme-san cheese and bake 30 minutes.
Garnish with watercress and serve.
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FALL 2011
Seasonal Pants,
Shirts, Outerwear,
Belts & More,
in store now!
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SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERSTO LIFE’S QUESTIONSAREN’T IN YOUR BRAIN.THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET.BY JAMES RARUS
A former boss, the president of a luxury apparel firm,used to scream at me: “You know what your problem is?You think too much! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. Iplay menswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate,though I’m not a doctor.
Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants filltheir shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, trans-forming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxu-ry. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, theclothes he pulls out each morning helping to determineif people will buy into his personality, business acumen,credibility, or whatever he’s selling.
I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneledcloset. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenlyspaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows,his belts and ties were arranged meticulously.
I thought about this client, a bachelor with a highfinance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair,beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters!Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect speci-men, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics,and not one cashmere knit!
I looked around his spectacular apartment with itsexpansive views of Central Park and envisioned thewomen he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceivedwardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud.
Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favoritestore as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazzsong with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensionsto help showcase your own unique qualities.
Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this musicmetaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen two-and four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in mas-culine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is nowbalanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks,V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces nowdouble as sportswear. His love life has improved, too:wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knitcardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams.
When people ask me what I do for a living, I often say,“I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so that whenthey get dressed each day, they’re energized andinspired.” To which they usually respond, “You think toomuch! But let me ask you a question. Can I wear…?”
CLOSET THERAPY
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