Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshirID: 201000040000813th Batch (session 2009-2013)Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.comBlog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)

Southeast University Department Of Textile Engineering

I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh

Prepared By :

Total Textile Process at a Glance

The whole presentation has been divided into 3 parts according to our practical experience. The steps followed in the garment factory.

The 3 parts are:1. Pattern and Marker making2. Fabric spreading3. Fabric cutting

Our focused topic is:Requirements of fabric spreading

Pattern: Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following all the specifications of each and individual components of a garment. It is an ornamental design or decorative element in a fabric. The two steps of pattern making are:

1. Block pattern or basic block

2. Working or garments pattern

Fig: Pattern

Marker: Marker is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments. It gives special instructions for cutting.

Methods of marker making:

1. Manual method2. Computerized method

Spreading: Spreading means the smooth laying out of

the fabric in superimposed layers of specific length.

Types of spreading:

The two types of fabric spreading are

1. Flat spreading2. Stepped spreading

Methods of fabric spreading:

1. Manual method2. Mechanical method

I. Semi-automatic II. Full automatic

1. Fabric must be flat

2. Correct ply tension

3. Alignment of fabric ply

4. Correct ply direction and lay stability

5. Elimination of static electricity

6. Elimination of fabric flaws

7. Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles

8. Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting

9. Avoidance of distortion in spread

10. Matching checks and stripes

1. Fabric must be flat

1. During fabric spreading it

should be maintained that

the fabric is flat.

2. If there is wrinkle in flat

table then the panels of

garments may be faulty.

3. The wrinkle must be

removed (by air flow) so

that the fabric may be flat.

2.Correct ply tension:

The ply tension of the fabric should

be proper. If the tension is low,

there will be ridges in the plies and

if the tension is too high, the fabric

may shrink after cutting and sewing.

Spreading in spreading machine will

give uniform tension.

3.Alignment of fabric ply:Fabric spreading is done according to length and width of marker. Every ply should comprise at least width of the marker plan but should have the minimum possible extra outside those measurements

4.Correct ply direction and lay stability:These two factors depend on fabric type, pattern shape and spreading equipments that are available. When the pattern pieces have been positioned in a particular direction in the marker plan, it is the essential that the fabric is spread according the direction. Symmetrical patterns pieces are placed in the same way up or face to face.

5. Elimination of static electricity: If spreading is done by manmade fabrics, static electricity may generate. It can be eliminated by reducing friction or increasing humidity of the room. Anti-static paper may be used to reduce the static electricity generation.

6. Elimination of fabric flaws:The flaws of fabric must be indicated during spreading and necessary steps to be taken to remove these faults. The general two steps to remove the flaws are

a. Splicing b. Over lapping

7. Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles:The size of cut lay into bundles of fabric depends on the height of fabric lays. Some low priced color papers are used in the fabric plies to displace. It helps each bundle to prevent shade variation for displacing. It also helps to catch the slippery fabrics lays during spreading. Generally, the colored papers are rough in surface.

8. Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting:The heat generated when the fabric lays are cut by using cutting knife due to the friction fabric and knife. Generally, those fabrics are melted due to heat generation to the fabric lays which are made by thermoplastic fibres. To prevent this defect, some anti-fusion papers are used with the gaps of fabric plies during spreading.

9. Avoidance of distortion in spread:

The fabric may be creased and folded due to the friction in the bottom of lay by base plate of knife during cutting with straight knife or shifting of fabric lay. As a result, defected pattern may occur. To remove this defect, fabric lay is made on the smooth paper so that, there is less possibility of friction between fabric and table.

10. Matching checks and stripes:For check and stripe fabric, the flaws of fabric must be indicated during spreading and necessary steps should be taken. Marker planning should be done by matching with stripe of check of fabric. Each ply should be correct during spreading on the other for making fabric lay. Then the matching may warp or weft way as required.

Method of fabric cutting:There are mainly three methods of cutting:

1. Manual: Hand operated scissor2. Manual operated power knife: Straight knife Band knife Round knife Die cutting knife Notcher Drill

3. Computerized: Knife Laser Water jet knife Plasma torch

1. Yarn Manufacturing TechnologyLink : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Yarn-Manufacturing-Technology/485014954866808

2. Fabric Manufacturing TechnologyLink : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabric-Manufacturing-Technology/459520217425605

3. Garments Manufacturing TechnologyLink : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Garments-Manufacturing-Technology/472364799463126

3. Wet processing TechnologyLink : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wet-Processing-Technology-Dyeing-/468645219825404

4. Fashion-Design-and-TechnologyLink : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fashion-Design-and-Technology/587655294583875?ref=ts&fref=ts

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