Garment Manufacturing Process

Garment Manufacturing ProcessBy Sauumye ChauhanMFM/14/31

Sample Order BuyerH.E By Mango Order No: 12345

Basic Mens Casual Shirt Style Code: MS342

FabricCotton-PolyesterStyle Name: Oxford

TrimsButtons Care & Wash LabelInterliningBrand LabelSwing Tag

SizesS, M, L, XL

ColorsBlack & White

Quantity Black WhiteTotal

S250250500

M300300600

L300300600

XL150150300

Total Quantity2000 pieces

Packaging DetailsEach Garment Individually Packed In Transparent Plastic Wrap150 garments in each box

Delivery DetailsOrder to be delivered in 3 lotsLot 1: Sizes S,M & L in both the colorsLot 2: Size XL in both the colors

Production Process

Understanding the Order and Fabric Consumption

When an analysis of the order is done, we understand that the fabric required is a blend of Cotton and Polyester in the ratio 60:40. The approximate consumption per shirt would be 1.25m. Thus, the fabric consumption is (1.25m *2000) + Extra fabric consumption of at least 20 shirts for any fabric defects or any errors or mishandling during the production process.Total Fabric Consumption = (1.25*2000) + (1.25*20) = 2500+25= 2525mFurther the trims are ordered which includes buttons, threads and interlining, busk for the collar, wash & care labels, brand label, size label and swing tags.Fabric & Trims Procurement

Purchasing the right fabric can be sometimes a tough challenge faced by apparel manufacturers. Out of the total cost of manufacturing a garment piece, the cost of fabric can contribute between 50 and 65 per cent. Furthermore, even a minor oversight in selecting the right fabric and right manufacturer may spoil the entire apparel program.The various vendors are listed and the best suited vendor is selected. According to the calculations done above, the order for raw materials i.e. fabrics and trims is placed. Inspection

Since fabric is the main contributor to the development of the final garment, it is very important to control its quality. This is indicated by the number of faults and variations present in it. Identification of these faults at the initial stage helps to reduce the production time and prevents wastage. Thus, once the fabric is in-housed, it is immediately sent to the inspection area. A fully equipped In-House Laboratory is usually present. Otherwise the inspection is done by third party companies. It has a number of instruments that are used to measure the quality of the fabric and make sure it is fit for manufacturing garments. This helps to eliminate the possibility of post shipment rejection. The sampling and merchandising teams cut out about 25cms of each fabric, which is then given in the lab to check for GSM, thread count and construction. Some of the defects found in woven fabrics are slubs, holes, missing yarn, conspicuous yarn variation, soiled yarn, incorrect yarn. Common defects found in knitted fabrics are mixed yarn, runner, yarn variation, needle line, slubs, hole. Major dyeing or printing defects are dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear or shading.Marker Making

Marker is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for different sizes for a particular style of garments. It is planned in such a way that fabric wastage would be least. By making a marker it is possible to achieve more benefit by producing a garment with reduced wastage. Normally the width of a marker is kept according to the width of the fabric and the length of a marker normally depends on the number and sizes of pattern placed on a marker. The length also depends on- Number of garments to be produced from a spread lay Length of cutting table Production planning etc.For marker making, white paper or newsprint paper is used. At first all large patterns are placed on the marker. After that small sized patterns are placed in between the gaps of large patterns. In this way higher marker efficiency can be achieved.To produce a marker with better efficiency, a very efficient marker maker is required.Spreading & Cutting

Once the fabric has been received and tested, it is sent for cutting. The fabric is laid out in layers; usually 200 layers are spread out (up to 8 cms). A sheet container a marker is placed on it and pinned and notches are added. Next, the fabric is cut according to the pattern using a Straight knife. A Band knife is used for small components that are difficult to cut and require precision. Once cut, the Fabric layers are numbered using stickers and packed in bundles to be sent for stitching. The appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the fabric type, spreading equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the firms quality standards. Spreading requires a flat, smooth surface. If the spreading surface doubles as a cutting surface, it also must be level. Spreading and cutting may be done on the same surface, but automated cutting often requires spreading and cutting to be done in adjacent but separate locations.Spreading and cutting surfaces are available in standard widths that correspond to fabric width. Narrow fabric can be spread on a wider table. A spreading surface needs to be about 10 inches wider than the fabric. Spreading tables may have tracks or rails placed along one or both sides of a tabletop or just a few inches off the floor. This track helps guide and control the spreader as it moves up and down the length of the table. With some types of equipment, the table tracks are geared to synchronize the movement of the spreading machine with fabric unrolling, in order to regulate tension.Bundling

Bundles system of apparel production consists of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or garment component. For example, an operation bundle for a shirt setting might include shirt fronts and pockets that are to be attached with garments. Bundle sizes may range from two to a hundred parts. Bundles of garments are assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are matched up with corresponding parts and bundle tickets.Production

Bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing room and given to the garments operator scheduled to complete the garments production operation. One garment operator is expected to perform the same operation on all the pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle, process coupon, and set it aside until it is picked up and moved to the next operation of garments production. A progressive bundle system of garments production may require a high volume of work in process cause of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of backup that is needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all operators in garments.Finishing

A finishing department has following sub-processes.

Washing of garment (Some factories may have separate washing department) Buttoning and button holing Thread trimming Checking of washed / unwashed garments Stain removing Ironing or Pressing Mending / repair work Tagging Folding Final Inspection

Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects which can affect the garment quality adversely. During processing the quality control section needs to check each prepared article against these defects.For the textile and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness, designs and the final finished garments. Quality control in terms of garment manufacturing, pre-sales and posts sales service, delivery, pricing, etc are essential for any garment manufacturer, trader or exporter. Certain quality related problems, often seen in garment manufacturing like sewing, color, sizing, or garment defects should never be over looked.Packaging & Dispatch

After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the carton. The carton is marked with important information in printed form which is seen from outside the carton easily.The cartons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the dispatch department or finished product warehouse, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.