GardenChatter

The Official Publication of Laclede County Master Gardeners

Laclede County Master

Gardeners 186 N. Adams Ave. Lebanon

Ph. 532-7126

President

Pam Smith, 417-839-5610

psmith@durhamcompany.com

Vice President

Glennie Kinnett 417- 588-0198

GlennieKinnett03@gmail.com

Secretary

Barbara Thompson 417-533-8148

Treasurer

Don Davis

Newsletter Editor

Robert “Bob” Smith III, 417-532-5783

onevol90@gmail.com

Master Gardeners of Laclede County

186-D N. Adams Ave.

Lebanon, Missouri 65536

Phone: 417-532-7126 •

Fax: 417-532-4587

University of Missouri Extension does not

discriminate on the basis of race, color,

national origin, sex, religion, age, disability or

status as a Vietnam-era veteran in

employment or programs.

August - 2014

Thanks All For Another

Successful 2014 Fair Season!

Master Gardner Special Award Winner

“On The Wild Side”

Do Not Forget To Vote Next Tuesday, August 5th

Polls Open At 7 a.m.

Our Fair Pictures Are Compliments of Jeanni Wilson

Turnip Day in Missouri There is an old Missouri saying, “On the twenty-fifth of July, sow your turnips, wet or dry.” ( And we are just a

few days late but plant them anyway.) This local adage vaulted into the national spotlight during the presidency

of Missouri native Harry S. Truman. Evidently, the congressional session of 1948 was a particularly rancorous

one, with the GOP-dominated Congress refusing to pass any of President Truman’s initiatives. In reprisal,

President Truman called a two-week special session to deal with matters Congress had refused to address before

adjourning for the summer. The President proposed that it should begin on “what we in Missouri call Turnip

Day—July 25th”

The tactic did not work since Congress still refused to pass any of President Truman’s initiatives in what

historians refer to as the Turnip Day Session. However, it did bring to the attention of the American public that,

at least in Missouri, late July is a good time to plant turnips.

Turnip (Brassica rapa var. rapa) is a member of the Brassicaceae (Mustard) family and has been cultivated

since prehistoric times. Its common name is an old compound of the word neep, which was used by ancients as

a name for the vegetable now called rutabaga (Brassica napus). Indeed, turnip and rutabaga are closely related,

with the latter thought to be a chance hybrid between cabbage and turnip.

Turnip was well-established as a crop during the Greek and Roman eras. Roman naturalist and philosopher

Pliny the Elder considered turnip to be a very important food source, ranking it just behind cereal grains and

beans. He also mentioned its value as “animal fodder”, a use for turnip that still is practiced today. Its use a

food for animals as well as the poor delayed its widespread acceptance by the upper class. By the 18th century,

however, turnip was grown throughout the cooler climes of Europe and became an integral part of its food chain

and culture.

French explorer Jacques Cartier is credited with introducing turnip to America when he planted it in what is

now Canada in 1541. The colonists are known to have grown it in Virginia as early as 1609 and later in other

(now) New England states. Native Americans were quick to adopt its culture from the colonists and grew it

widely.

Turnip is a biennial grown both for its edible storage root as well as its leaves. In nature, the plant spends its

first year growing and enlarging its root. During its second year, the plant flowers, produces seed and dies.

Because of its affinity for cool temperatures, turnip is an ideal fall garden crop. The cool days of late summer

and fall are ideal for root development. Hot temperatures tend to make turnip roots fibrous and pungent. In the

garden, turnip often is planted in space vacated when earlier crops such as peas, spinach or onions have been

harvested. It also is feasible to plant turnip as a companion with corn. The seedlings will get some shade from

the larger corn plants but will develop rapidly after the corn has been harvested and stalks removed from the

garden.

Like most root crops, turnip prefers a fairly light soil. Heavy clay soils are less desirable and tend to inhibit root

development and cause poor root shape. For best seed germination, prepare a seedbed that is fine and

smooth. If a crop had been growing in the space in which turnips are to be seeded, remove it completely. Also,

remove all debris and weeds. If the soil is dry, water the space to be seeded a day or two before digging or

tilling.

Adequate fertility is import for turnip, especially in its early development. Apply a garden fertilizer (e.g. 5-10-

5) at the rate of about one pound for each 100 square feet of area to be planted. If the previous crop was very

productive, this additional fertilizer might not be needed. In this sense, turnip is a good “cleanup” crop to make

full use of fertilizer applied to the garden during a growing season.

Turnip seeds may be broadcast over the prepared soil or planted in rows 12 to 15 inches apart. Lightly cover

the seeds after planting. If seeds are broadcast over the soil’s surface, a light raking after planting usually is

sufficient to cover them.

In spite of the above-mentioned saying to sow turnips “wet or dry” daily light watering is advised until seeds

have germinated and become established. Moisture will not only aid seed germination, it will tend to cool the

seedlings at a time when the weather is still a bit warm for turnip’s liking.

Turnip plantings are subject to attack by several insect pests. Flea beetle, aphid, root maggots and wireworms

are the most problematic. Turnip diseases include white spot, white rust, downy mildew, anthracnose and

alternaria leaf spot, all of which are caused by fungi. Bacterial black rot and leaf spot as well as mosaic virus

can be problematic also. Crop rotation within the garden is helpful in managing turnip diseases.

Harvesting and storage of turnip varies somewhat with intended use. Some are harvested by pulling both leaves

and roots and binding them together in a bunch. If this method is used, a root diameter of about two inches is

quite common. For turnips that will be topped and harvested for their root only, it is best to wait until roots

have achieved a diameter of at least three inches. Turnip is relatively cold hard and can withstand freezing

temperatures. However, harvest should be accomplished before the soil freezes. The latter tends to crack the

roots which then decay in the soil. Turnip roots are best stored at temperatures at or just above freezing (32-35o

F.). Refrigerators are great for storage, if space is available. To store larger amounts of turnip roots, consider

an unheated basement or outdoor pit storage. The latter consists of burying a large, water-proof container (e.g.

55 gallon plastic drum) in a semi-horizontal or slanted position. Put turnip roots in the container and place the

lid on lightly to allow for air circulation. Finally, cover the storage container with a generous layer of straw

held in place with a thin layer of soil

There are a number of turnip varieties well-suited for Missouri conditions. ‘Purple Top White Globe’ one of

the best and forms a root shaped like a flattened globe with a purple top and creamy-white interior. It normally

produces edible (four-inch) roots about 60 days after seeding. For an earlier harvest, ‘Tokyo Cross’ is a faster-

maturing variety that produces two-inch roots in a mere 30 days. Contrastingly, ‘Golden Ball’ requires 70 days

to produce golden-yellow roots that are sweet and flavorful.

For you that enjoy flowers and gardening. - Telling the bees

The telling of the bees is a traditional English custom, in which bees would be told of important events in their keeper's lives, such as

births, marriages, or departures and returns in the household. The bees were most commonly told of deaths in their master's family. The

custom was prevalent all over England, as well as in a few places in Ireland and Wales but not in Scotland.[1][2] If the custom was omitted

or forgotten then it was believed a penalty would be paid, that the bees might leave their hive, stop producing honey, or die.[3]

To inform the bees of a death their hive might be hung with a black cloth, while a "doleful tune" is sung.[3] Another method of "telling the

bees" would be for their master to approach the hive and knock gently upon it. The house key might also be used to knock on the

hive.[1] When the master of the house had the attention of the bees they would tell the bees the name of the person that had died.[3]

Food and drink from a beekeeper's funeral would also be left by the hive for the bees, including the funeral biscuits and wine.[1] The hive

would also be lifted a few inches and put down again at the same time as the coffin.[1] The hive might also be rotated to face the funeral

procession, and draped with mourning cloth.[1] If a wedding occurred in the household, the hive might be decorated, and a slice

of wedding cake left by their hive.[1][4][5] The decoration of hives appears to date to the early 19th century.[1]

The custom spread with European immigration to the United States in the 19th century.[4] An 1890 article in The Courier-

Journal newspaper also described the practice of inviting bees to the funeral.[4]

The custom has given its name to poems by Deborah Digges, John Ennis, Eugene Field, Carol Frost

All About Dahlias

Types of Dahlias Most gardeners group dahlias into three general categories based on flower size and growth habit.

• Large-flower dahlias offer huge flowers the size of dinner plates. Such dahlias offer flowers than range from

10-12" or more across; plants grow to be several feet tall. They are often grown as specimen plants, against a

building or fence, or at the back of the flower border. Large-flowering dahlias bloom in the late summer

throughout the fall.

• Medium-flower dahlias, as the name suggests, have flowers that find a middle ground between the small and

large-sized flowers, and are often easier for gardeners to cultivate because they require no special stakes or

supports. They are sometimes called border dahlias because they can be planted along a walkway or edge of the

garden to act as border flowers. Medium-flowering dahlias grow to be approximately one to two feet tall with

medium-sized flower heads.

• Small-flower dahlias are the tiniest among the various sizes of dahlias, rarely reaching heights above 10 to 20

inches. They also tend to form compact mounds instead of tall, lanky plants, making them ideal for container

gardens.

Planting Dahlias Dahlias are grown from tubers. Tubers are sold in individual packages in the spring at garden centers

nationwide.

When planting dahlias, save the packaging materials, especially the label that contains the planting instructions

and picture of the flower. Make a plant label with the name of your new dahlia. Dahlias must be lifted or dug up

from the garden at the end of the growing season and stored indoors, and keeping the packaging materials will

help you mark and identify stored tubers for next spring. You can tape the picture to the storage container or

bag for quick identification.

• Location: Dahlias need full sun and well-drained soil, so choose your location accordingly. Full sun is defined

as six or more hours a day of bright, direct, full sunlight.

• Soil: Dahlias are heavy feeders, so amend the soil before planting. They prefer a soil pH just slightly acidic,

around 6.5. A soil test conducted by your local Cooperative Extension Office not only identifies the pH of the

soil but also analyzes soil nutrients and composition. The Extension Agent can then recommend amendments to

grow optimal dahlias based on your soil test results.

• Fertilizer: Compost and well-aged manures can also be added to the garden bed as long as they are worked

Dahlias offer gardeners a wide range of flower sizes, colors

and types. You can plant spectacular dinner plate dahlias for

show-stopping garden centerpieces, or add diminutive small

dahlias to a window box, planter or garden border. The

basic planting and care instructions for each type of dahlias

are similar, so once you’ve learned how to care for dahlias,

you can grow nearly any type your heart desires as long as

they’re appropriate for your gardening zone.

into the soil prior to planting. Many dahlia growers recommend a low nitrogen fertilizer worked into the soil

about a month before you plant your dahlias. A 5-20-20 or similar fertilizer is good for dahlias.

How to Plant Dahlias • Dig the planting hole about six inches deep and backfill it with peat moss and soil so that the tuber is just

about two to four inches below the soil surface. Plant the tuber so that the crown is just about level with the soil.

Once you have the tuber in position, pat the soil around it gently and add a good layer of mulch to retain

moisture.

• Space large-flowering dahlias at least a foot apart and up to three feet apart. Medium-sized dahlias can be

spaced about a foot apart or a little less, and small dahlias can be placed six inches apart.

• If you're growing large-flowering dahlias, place the support stakes around the dahlias when you plant them.

Add a plant label near the newly planted tuber so you can identify it correctly.

• Fertilize dahlias monthly until about the middle of August, and then stop fertilizing them. This prepares them

for blooming and rest during the winter.

• Water your plants well, and use mulch to help retain soil moisture.

Lifting Dahlias for Winter Storage After your dahlias have flowered and before the first frost for your part of the country, you must "lift" or dig up

your dahlia tubers and store them in a sheltered location over the winter. If they freeze, they won't return next

year.

• Remove stakes and ties holding plants to stakes.

• Cut back the plant, including the foliage. Leave a little stem about three inches tall.

• Dig around the plant, being careful to extend your area around the base of the dahlia plant. The roots spread

out near the surface.

• Remove the tuber from the soil. Shake gently to remove excess soil.

• Label the tubers so you don't forget which variety it is!

• Hang them upside down to dry, and brush off any remaining soil with your hand.

• Use your scissors or gardening shears to cut off any extra roots from the tubers. Dusting tubers with sulfur

before storage prevents diseases.

• Place clean, healthy tubers in a bushel basket, wooden crate or cardboard box lined with vermiculite or peat

moss. Cover with an inch or two of the same material, but leave a little bit of the stem exposed.

• Store in a cool area at around 45 degrees F until you're ready to plant them next spring. Check them

occasionally during storage to make sure they aren't drying out. If they start looking shriveled, sprinkle a little

water on them.

Not all of the tubers will survive, but some should, and you can plant these again in the spring around March or

April when the ground begins to thaw.

For more information on growing dahlias, visit your local Cooperative Extension Office or the American Dahlia

Society website.

About Jeanne Grunert -

Jeanne is a contributing writer for Dave's Garden. She is an award-

winning writer, blogger and content marketer with over 20 years of

experience. She is the author of "Get Your Hands Dirty! Grow a

Great Garden" and is a Virginia Master Gardener. Read her

gardening blog at homegardenjoy.com or follow her at Google

Japanese beetle scourge hits fields and lawns

Invading beetles continue attempt to take over plants In Missouri

COLUMBIA, Mo. – If the leaves of your roses, shrubs or soybeans look like swiss cheese, the culprit could be

Japanese beetles.

The population of the dime-sized insect continues to climb and will peak later in July. The green beetle with

bronze wings and white tufts of hair around its shell is amid a multi-year population boom.

“They will build for the next five to seven years before some of the normal pathogens and predators move in to

drop that population to a more balanced level,” said Wayne Bailey, a University of Missouri Extension

entomologist. “They are gregarious feeders and come to feed in groups of up to 25 beetles or even more.”

In a three-day period, Bailey collected more than 1,600 Japanese beetles in a single pheromone trap in

Columbia, Mo.

Japanese beetles show little discrimination in filling their stomachs, feeding on any plant that has a pleasant

smell.

“Roses and linden trees are their favorite crops, but they’ll feed on a wide variety of ornamentals, fruit trees,

grapes and 440 different plants species,” Bailey said. “They usually feed on the tops of plants in the sunlight,

and they like plants that smell succulent, so if it smells good to you they likely will prefer those plants.”

Field crops also appear on the menu for the Japanese beetle.

Both corn and soybeans can receive significant damage if control measures aren’t implemented.

“For corn farmers it can be a serious pest because they target corn tassels and silks and chew on them,” he said.

“If the silks are taken down to less than half an inch in length, you won’t get pollination, thus reducing corn

production for that particular ear.” In soybean plants, Japanese beetles chew at the leaves instead. They prefer

lush leaflets at the top of plants and can hurt yield by significantly defoliating the plant.

“If you get 25 percent damage to the leaves on soybeans. you can afford to treat your field to protect the rest of

the crop,” Bailey said. “In corn we recommend treatment if there are three or more beetles per ear that are

producing green silks and pollination is less than 50 percent complete.”

Japanese beetles arrived in the United States in the early 1900s, probably in potted irises from their native

Japan. They were first found in New Jersey in 1916 and by mid-century had spread to Missouri, where they

caused problems with ornamental plants and other crops. About 10 years ago MU entomologists began seeing

Japanese beetles in more rural areas of the state and they are now found in most counties. The insect can fly up

to three miles to find a tasty, fragrant meal.

Japanese beetles live for one year. The adult lays eggs in July that hatch and develop into white larvae, which

overwinter in the soil and mature during the spring. They emerge as beetles in mid-June and begin feeding.

Each healthy female lays 40 to 60 eggs. Adults live up to 60 days.

Homeowners can fall back on a staple insecticide, powdered Sevin (carbaryl), to combat the destruction of

Japanese beetles. “Sevin is probably one of the best, because it’s readily available and relatively safe to most

everything around,” Bailey said.

More information on the insect and appropriate pesticides is available in the June 20 issue of the MU Plant

Protection Program’s Integrated Pest & Crop Management newsletter at

http://ppp.missouri.edu/newsletters/ipcm/archives/fullissue/v21n12.pdf.

Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii) was brought to America as early as 1875 for landscape use. The species

is naturally tidy in appearance, deer resistant, and tough as nails. Japanese barberry is now offered in dozens of

cultivars, in a range of foliage colors and overall plant shapes. This shrub is practically universal in home and

commercial landscaping in the eastern half of the US.

But Japanese barberry didn't stay in the garden. It escaped from New England gardens within 35 years. Birds

carried barberry seeds from gardens into nearby forests. Barberry now grows in thick stands in northeastern US

and eastern Canadian woodlands, and many states officially list this plant as invasive. Some states prohibit the

sale of Berberis thunbergii. (There is a native American barberry, but it is far less common and naturally

inhabits a more southern region. For the rest of this article, when I say barberry, I mean B. thunbergii.)

Japanese Barberry Linked to

Lyme Disease

What Gardeners Need to Know

By Sally G. Miller

Connecticut finds itself in prime invasive barberry territory. Connecticut is also famous as the "origin" of Lyme

disease. More accurately, Lyme, Connecticut is where a previously unrecognized disease was finally attributed

to a bacterium carried by blacklegged ticks.

The blacklegged tick (Ixodes scapularis) has been nicknamed "deer tick" in recent decades. Adult blacklegged

ticks do feed on deer, as do some other adult ticks. But young deer ticks prey on small mammals and birds, as

do the young of most other tick species found in North America. The bacterium that causes Lyme disease was

identified in 1981, and young deer ticks carry the bacterium and transmit it. Deer ticks carry other diseases as

well, and other ticks also spread diseases that affect humans and pets.

Confirmed cases of Lyme disease in the US have ranged from 20,000 to 30,000 for over a decade. It is the

"most commonly reported vectorborne illness," according to the CDC. New Hampshire had the highest rate of

infection last year, with neighboring states close behind. Many studies look for the most effective means of

control of deer or deer ticks in order to reduce Lyme infections. Scientists in Maine found a correlation between

thick growths of various invasive plants (bittersweet, barberry, buckthorn, etc. ) and higher numbers of ticks

carrying Lyme disease. Connecticut researchers studied barberry in particular and found it created a moist

habitat that fostered both mice and deer ticks. It now seems clear that rodents are a major factor in deer tick

populations. And the story of Lyme disease is really a complex tale involving forest fragmentation, invasive

plant species, shifts in populations of deer, mice, and their predators, and suburban development that integrates

natural areas. We love to live close to nature, but Nature doesn't always play nice.

Read more: http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/4976/#ixzz37SmGA3uB

New human cases of Lyme disease number 20,000 to 30,000 each year in the US. Lyme is

not decreasing, despite our understanding major factors of transmission since 1981. A

study by University of Connecticut has shown a link between thickets of nonnative invasive

Berberis and increased risk of Lyme disease. Scientists in Maine find that various nonnative

invasive species create a thick underbrush loaded with infected mice. Gardeners should

know about these recent findings concerning Japanese barberry and other nonnative

invasive plants plaguing northeastern forests.

Read more: http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/4976/#ixzz37bRX0ONK

Off The Wall Tid-Bits! August 3

rd - begins Dog Days, If you crush a few basil leaves in your hand the released oils will keep flies

away -

August 11th

Dog Days end – When dogs eat grass in the morning it will be rainy

Radish Juice and/or mashed garlic and /or onion will relieve the itch from an insect bite.

A Great lunch snack - Just stack tomatoes, some mozzarella cheese, basil and asparagus and drizzle with

some balsamic vinaigrette.

Pennies in the garden repel slugs and make hydrangeas blue. I love this idea.

The Carrot Cailoret http://www.youtube.com/embed/BISrGwN-yH4 One more for you who are musically

inclined. This is quite a deal be sure and watch the Carrot clarinet --- takes 5 ½ minutes

August Gardening Calendar Category Week

Activity

1 2 3 4

Ornamentals x x x x Continue spraying roses that are susceptible to black spot and other fungus diseases.

x x x x Annuals may appear leggy and worn now. These can be cut back hard and fertilized to

produce a new flush of bloom.

x x x x Deadhead annuals and perennials as needed.

x x Divide oriental poppies now.

x x Feed mums, asters and other fall-blooming perennials for the last time.

x x Roses should receive no further nitrogen fertilizer after August 15th.

x x Powdery mildew on lilacs is unsightly, but causes no harm and rarely warrants control,

though common rose fungicides will prove effective.

x x Madonna lilies, bleeding heart (Dicentra) and bloodroot (Sanguinaria) can be divided and

replanted.

x x Divide bearded iris now. Discard old center sections and borer damaged parts. Replant so

tops of rhizomes are just above ground level.

x x Prune to shape hedges for the last time this season.

x x x Order bulbs now for fall planting.

x x x Evergreens can be planted or transplanted now to ensure good rooting before winter

arrives. Water both the plant and the planting site several days before moving.

x x x If you want to grow big dahlia flowers, keep side shoots pinched off and plants watered and

fertilized regularly.

Lawns x x Zoysia lawns can receive their final fertilizer application now.

x x Apply insecticides now for grub control on lawns being damaged by their activity.

x x Lawns scheduled for renovation this fall should be killed with Roundup now. Have soil tested

to determine fertility needs.

x Dormant lawns should be soaked now to encourage strong fall growth.

x Verify control of lawn white grubs from earlier insecticide applications.

Vegetables x x x x Compost or till under residues from harvested crops.

x x x Sow seeds of beans, beets, spinach and turnips now for the fall garden. Spinach may

germinate better if seeds are refrigerated for one week before planting.

x x x Cure onions in a warm, dry place for 2 weeks before storing.

x Broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower transplants should be set out now for the fall garden.

x x x Begin planting lettuce and radishes for fall now.

x x Pinch the growing tips of gourds once adequate fruit set is achieved. This directs energy into

ripening fruits, rather than vine production.

Fruits x x x x Prop up branches of fruit trees that are threatening to break under the weight of a heavy

crop.

x x x Protect ripening fruits from birds by covering plants with a netting.

x x x Continue to spray ripening fruits to prevent brown rot fungus.

x Thornless blackberries are ripening now.

x x x Watch for fall webworm activity now.

x x x Cultivate strawberries. Weed preventers can be applied immediately after fertilizing.

x x Spray peach and other stone fruits now to protect against peach tree borers.

x x Fall-bearing red raspberries are ripening now.

x x Sprays will be necessary to protect late peaches from oriental fruit moth damage.

Miscellaneous x x x x Soak shrubs periodically during dry spells with enough water to moisten the soil to a depth

of 8-10 inches.

x x x x Once bagworms reach full size, insecticides are ineffective. Pruning off and burning large

bags provides better control.

x x Spray black locust trees now to protect against damage by the locust borer.

x x x Hummingbirds are migrating through gardens now.

x x

Watch Scotch and Austrian pines now for Zimmerman pine moth damage. Yellowing or

browning of branch tips and presence of pitch tubes near leaf whorls are indicative. Prune

and destroy infected parts.

x x Clean out cold frames to prepare for fall use.

x x Monitor plants for spider mite activity. Hose these pests off with a forceful spray of water.

x x 2nd generation pine needle scale crawlers may be present on mugo pine now.

Gardening Calendar supplied by the staff of the William T. Kemper Center for Home Gardening located at the Missouri Botanical Garden in St. Louis, Missouri. (www.GardeningHelp.org)

Missouri Primrose by Joshua Heston

Ozark sun drops, some call them. Missouri primrose is their most commonly known name. But the primrose, with its

massive yellow blossoms and trailing, tuberous stalk and root systems, is not a primrose at all.

The Oenothera family of perennial flowering plants is all its own, native to the Americas, diverse in its history.

There are many species which thrive throughout North, Central and South America, but the Missouri Primrose’s range is

limited to a wide crescent stretching from South Texas into Canada.

The trailing plants thrive in rocky, open slopes, making it an ideal Ozark glade species.

The thin soil and hot summer afternoons prove the Oenothera Missourians is’ hardiness. In fact, the species will often

colonize in patches of dirt and rock where little else will grow.

Still, they are an unusual plant, often overlooked. Amidst the grass, the cedars, rocks and invasive mimosa, the

primrose’s at-times four-inch wide lemon yellow blossoms open at dawn while the morning dew blankets the petals.

Stigma, heavy with bright yellow pollen, droop in the breeze.

By mid-day, the blossoms have faded, leaving behind toad-wort-like sepals.

Oenothera missouriensis,. Missouri Primrose. Ozark Sun drop. One of the most beautiful glade plants to grace the late-

spring and early summer Ozark hills.

Missouri Primrose (Oenothera missouriensis)

Size: 6—20 inches tall; flower 2—4 inches wide. What to look for: flowers yellow, showy, borne singly on stalks above

leaves; leaves lance-shaped to strap-like Habitat: dry prairies, rocky open slopes. In bloom: May—September (evening).

— page 396, Wernett, Susan J., et al. North American Wildlife. The Reader's Digest Association, Inc., 1986.

All photo credits: J. Heston • SOTO © Archive. 05/25/10

Plant Diagnostic Clinic Update The Plant Diagnostic Clinic has been re-opened for 2 months now. It has been a whirlwind of activity and a lot

of learning on my part. I am grateful for all the assistance I’ve received from specialists in the Division of Plant

Sciences and University of Missouri Extension. This write-up highlights fruit, vegetable, ornamental and turf

samples submitted. Two graphs are included to show the activity in the Plant Diagnostic Clinic thus far (Figure

1 and Figure 2).

Fruits and Vegetables

There have been several issues diagnosed on fruit samples. Winter injury was reported in both blackberry and

blueberry. There has been some chemical injury reported on blueberry, blackberry, apple, pear and cherry due

to drift from neighboring fields, accidental sprays from the grower or misapplication of fertilizer causing a

phytotoxicity. Reporting on diseases, this spring has been a big fire blight year across the state of Missouri. The

spring weather was perfect for this. Walking around the MU-Columbia campus there isn’t a Bradford pear tree

that isn’t affected. For fruit-producing and ornamental trees, affected by fire blight, pruning is recommended.

The MU-Extension publication, G6020, on fire blight is useful to learn about the disease and recommendations

(http://extension.missouri.edu/p/g6020). Other disease issues include:

Crop Disease / Pest / Issue

Blueberry Alternaria leaf spot

Phomopsis twig blight

Pear Cedar-hawthorn rust

Fire blight

Strawberry

Rhizoctonia crown rot

Gray mold

Calcium deficiency

Watermelon Bacterial fruit blotch

Gummy stem blight

Blackberry Nutrient deficiency

Apple Fire blight

A handful of vegetable samples have been submitted, mostly tomatoes. Many of these have had chemical

injury. Chemical injury has also been diagnosed on spaghetti squash and potato. The most common injuries are

due to a growth regulator herbicide. In some cases the grower used an herbicide between rows or in close

proximity. However, in most of the cases the grower is positive they have not made an herbicide application.

During the investigation, the source of damage is commonly the compost or manure used in the soil. Many

growers don’t think about the potential of herbicide carryover in manure or compost (straw, grass clippings or

even wood chips). There is an article from a MU extension specialist

(http://extension.missouri.edu/nwregion/hort/current/herbicide.shtml) and an article from North Carolina State

University (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/fletcher/programs/ncorganic/special-pubs/herbicide_carryover.pdf) that

covers this topic. Diseases and issues diagnosed are listed below:

Crop Disease / Pest / Issue

Garlic Bacterial soft rot

Tomato

Bacterial canker

Bacterial stem rot

Undetermined virus

Gray mold

Pythium root rot

White mold

Southern blight

Frost injury

Physiological leaf roll

Juglone toxicity

Ornamentals

A number of cases of winter injury on ornamentals was diagnosed this spring. Many woody ornamentals were

already stressed going into winter from the 2013 drought. A reminder that when the weather is hot and dry,

supplemental watering to woody ornamentals is recommended. The common story with the evergreens is, they

stayed green all winter long and when temperatures warmed up dieback was noticed. Green tissues turned

brown practically overnight, or so it seems. The reason is that evergreens do not go into complete dormancy

during the winter. During warm, sunny days the plants are still biologically active, reduced but still transpiring

and using water. If the plants don’t have enough water stored in their roots or if the ground is frozen making

water unavailable, they become stressed. Since biological activity is reduced the plants will retain their green

color. However, once the weather warms up and the plants go back to their full photosynthetic potential the

dead parts are quickly abscised (cut off from receiving any water or nutrients), leaving branches, leaves or

needles yellow and unaesthetically pleasing. The dead branches should be pruned as they can attract bark

beetles or other insects. Plant species diagnosed with winter / cold injury include arborvitae, blue atlas cedar,

pines (white pine the most prevalent), rhododendron and a tulip tree. There has also been a number of chemical

injuries, which include drift from neighboring agronomic fields or misapplications by the homeowner or

landscaping company. Plant diseases and pests diagnosed include:

Ornamental Disease / Pest / Issue

Boxwood Boxwood mites

Cypress tree Pestalotia canker

Geranium

Gray mold

Bacterial blight

Nutrient deficiency

Maple Bacterial blight

River birch Anthracnose

Weeping willow Black cancer

Turfgrass

Turfgrass samples have been submitted from golf courses, parks, schools and lawns. The majority of these

samples have come from golf putting greens, due to their need for intensive and aggressive management

practices. Submitted plant species included creeping bentgrass, fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and Zoysia grass.

The diseases and issues are listed below:

Type of turfgrass Disease / Pest / Issue

Bentgrass

Pink snow mold

Yellow patch

Anthracnose

Pythium root rot

Blue green algae

Nematodes

Fescue Aphids

Sand Abrasion

Kentucky bluegrass Septoria leaf spot

Pythium root rot

Zoysia Large patch

Figure 1: Services requested at the PDC.

Figure 2: Types of plants submitted to the clinic for disease identification.

Recipe of the Month

Green Bean Soup a summer delight that cooks in a snap

By Jill M. Nicolaus (critterologist) July 12, 2014

Whether you grow bush beans or pole beans in your garden, seek out snap beans at a local farmers market, or

luck into a fresh delivery of green beans at the grocery store, these slender veggies are a favorite summer treat.

Read on for more about growing, harvesting, and preparing these garden-fresh delights…

Snap beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) are one of the best fresh tastes of summer! Most years, my veggie garden plan includes space for at least a couple of 10 foot double rows of bush beans. If I'm feeling traditional, I plant a standard green snap bean such as Contender or Heavyweight II. If I'm feeling adventuresome, I plant a purple bush bean such as Royal Burgundy, whose richly colored pods show up against the green foliage for easy picking. Purple snap beans turn green when cooked, and it's fun for kids to watch them change color in the pan.

Planting successive crops of bush beans three or four weeks apart seems to work well for me. When the first row of plants starts to fade, I can pull them out and plant cucumbers, or I can sow another round of beans. I've had good results sowing seeds fairly close together, about 3 or 4 inches apart in a double row. My "double row" has 6 or 8 inches between the two rows of seeds and is at least 2 feet wide. I've also tried planting beans in a more space-intensive method, planting an entire 6 by 6 foot section with seeds spaced 5 or 6 inches apart. That works all right, but harvesting seems easier in the double rows.

Snap beans usually germinate in less than a week and many varieties are ready to harvest 50 to 60 days after sowing. Picking them young and tender is good, but do give the beans a chance to reach their full length for a better harvest. The beans are ready to pick when the seeds inside the pods have just barely begun to swell and make little bumps.

Store fresh beans in the refrigerator. I like to use plastic bags with a few little holes for ventilation (stab a gallon zip-top bag with a fork about a dozen times). You can also keep produce fresh in special vented plastic storage

containers. Try to cook or freeze them as soon as possible, of course, but freshly picked snap beans will keep for a week in the fridge.

If you're relying on the grocery store or farmers' market for your beans, you'll want to check for freshness and quality. Good snap beans should snap crisply when you bend them. If you can bend a bean in half, touching the tip and stem ends together without breaking the bean, you know those beans are not as fresh and tender as you'd like. Unless you're really desperate, pass on "tired" beans.

When you prepare snap beans for cooking, either cut or snap off the tough stem ends of the beans. The little green "tails" can also be removed or can be left on–as long as the beans are fresh, they're usually fine. Snap beans, unlike "string" beans or some pole beans, don't have a fibrous string running along the top of the pod that has to be removed. The entire pod is tender and delicious.

Depending on how you're cooking the beans, you can either snap them further into bite sized pieces or leave them whole.

One of my favorite ways to fix garden-fresh snap beans is to make Green Bean and Potato Soup with Dumplings. The simple combination of ingredients in this soup really lets the fresh flavor of the snap beans shine through. It's quick-cooking, too, making it an easy meal for a busy summer day.

My mother remembers this soup from her childhood. She taught me to make the broth as her mother did, by dicing new potatoes and cooking them until they fall apart. My shortcut method uses instant mashed potato flakes for a broth that's ready by the time I've washed and snapped the beans. The potato flakes that I use are Idaho brand, which need 1 cup of liquid added to 1 cup of instant potatoes if you're making mashed potatoes. If your brand calls for a greater proportion of flakes to liquid in the box directions, adjust accordingly.

Grandma's Green Bean & Potato Soup with Dumplings

This is an inexact sort of recipe. Feel free to adjust the amount of broth, to add more potato flakes if you want it thicker, to toss in more snap beans if you have them, or to make another egg's worth of dumplings if you're feeding more people.

4 cups chicken broth 1 cup water or milk 1/2 cup instant mashed potato flakes 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 quart fresh green beans, snapped into bite size pieces 2 eggs, well beaten 3 Tablespoons grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup all purpose flour 1/4 teaspoon paprika 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

In a large pot, bring the stock and water to a simmering boil. While waiting for it to heat up, start snapping the

beans. Add the potato flakes and pepper. Stir occasionally as the potatoes dissolve to make a thickened soup

base. Add the prepared snap beans and continue simmering the soup.

Making the dough for the dumplings

Meanwhile, make the dough for the dumplings. Beat the eggs in a bowl

with a fork, then stir in the cheese and the flour. You should have a

sticky dough that's just solid enough to pull away from the edges of

your bowl into a big lump as you stir. If in doubt, add a bit more flour.

When the beans are tender-crisp (nearly done), it's time to add the

dumplings. Use two spoons to dip up and scrape off lumps of dough

into the bubbling soup. The dumplings cook quickly, in just a few

minutes. When they bob back up to the surface, they need just another

minute or two until they're cooked through.

Serve at once, and try to portion out the snap beans and dumplings as

fairly as possible, or there may be trouble. Leftover soup (if any) can

be stored in the refrigerator and reheats well. With loving appreciation for the

many lessons passed along by my grandma, Esther Fellbaum. Photos by Jill M. Nicolaus.

Better known as "Critter" on DG, Jill lives in Frederick, MD, where she tries to fit as many

plants as possible into a suburban back yard. The birds are mobbing our feeders lately, so

Sunshine Girl and I have a job keeping the Flyby Cafe' open for business! This year, we put

out a special feeder just for the squirrels, filled with a seed & corn blend. We still see them

acrobatically snatching food from the other feeders, but at least now they let the birds get a

beak in edgewise! (Images in my articles are from my photos, unless otherwise credited.)

Homemade Bug Juice

Nothing ruins an outing quite like the stinging, biting, swarming hordes of insects at your BBQ, camping trip

or weenie roast. The solution used to be chemical sprays with acrid dangerous fumes and stinging formulas.

The last thing you want around your food, pets and children is toxic chemicals that can be harmful to health

and you don't want to walk around covered in mosquito netting. Many items that are in the household and

garden make excellent deterrents and don't pollute your environment.

Essential oils are one of the ideal repelling products with no adverse health

effects on humans or pets. Some of the strongest smelling ones such as

citronella, clove, lemongrass, rosemary, tea tree, eucalyptus, cedar, catnip,

lavender and mint are perfect solutions to pests such as ants and flies. You

can either use them as an ambient spray mixed with a little alcohol or dab

them directly onto your skin to repel the annoying creatures.

Fresh or dried herbs work great and have the added benefit of scenting the

home and garden. Try making a homemade bug spray with distilled water,

witch hazel and a selection of pungent herbs with at least one from the mint

family. Boil 1 cup of water and 4 tablespoons of herbs. Cover and let the

mixture cool and strain out the herbs. Then simply load a spray bottle and

use where needed.

A similarly useful spray relies upon 1/2 teaspoon vegetable glycerin, 4 ounces distilled water 4 ounces of witch

hazel and essential oils.

One way to keep pests out of your vegetable garden is to use a garlic spray. You have to be able to take the

smell, though, as it is strong stuff. All you need is fresh garlic, mineral oil, dish soap and water. Crush 4 cloves

of garlic and let it sit in 1 tablespoon of mineral oil overnight. Strain the garlic out and add 1 quart water and 1

teaspoon dish soap. Mix in a bottled sprayer. Use it on plants to prevent aphids and around the patio as a

deterrent to crawling bugs.

You can also go with a preventative program. Wear light colored clothing which is less attractive and easier to

see any bugs. Keep a light weight hat on when outdoors to prevent tics, fleas and mosquitoes. Take a couple of

tablespoons of cider vinegar daily to change your pH and hopefully make you less tasty. Hang sticky fly traps

around the perimeter of the picnic table. Strew citrus peels around any outdoor seating area. Burn citronella

candles or set an old fashioned smug pot just outside the patio and downwind. Use decoy lighting at night to

attract moths and other insects and keep them away from your social spaces. Use netting for picnic foods to

keep the flies out.

A quick easy bait station is easy to make. Set up a bottle trap for hornets and yellow jackets. Use a 2 liter soda

bottle and cut off the top 2inches at the lid. Insert the lid upside down back into the main body of the bottle.

Add a little sugar water or honey to attract the insects or even a very ripe piece of meat. Hornets can go in but

can't get out.

.

Bonnie is a contributing writer to Dave's Garden. She has been a garden and landscape,

food and wine and DIY writer for six years. Her work can be found on eHow Home and

Garden, Gardening Know How and Garden Guides, to name a few. Her work specializes

in instructional articles and her lessons focus on how to be harmonious in daily hobbies

and chores. Follow her on Google

Full Moon Names Have you ever wondered how we got the names of our full moons? Like, for example, August is the Sturgeon

Moon. This is when the Indians would bury uncooked fish scraps such as heads, guts, bones, and tails about 4

inches deep in their garden. They, the scraps, would and do, provide nitrogen, trace minerals, and calcium to

the soil. The following is provided The Old Farmer’s Almanac. Enjoy this newly found info!

Native Americans full Moon names were created to help different tribes track the seasons. Think of it as a

"nickname" for the Moon! See our list of other full Moon names for each month of the year and their

meanings.

Why Native Americans Named the Moons

The early Native Americans did not record time by using

the months of the Julian or Gregorian calendar. Many

tribes kept track of time by observing the seasons and

lunar months, although there was much variability. For

some tribes, the year contained 4 seasons and started at a

certain season, such as spring or fall. Others counted 5

seasons to a year. Some tribes defined a year as 12 Moons, while others assigned it 13. Certain tribes that used

the lunar calendar added an extra Moon every few years, to keep it in sync with the seasons

Each tribe that did name the full Moons (and/or lunar months) had its own naming preferences. Some would

use 12 names for the year while others might use 5, 6, or 7; also, certain names might change the next year. A

full Moon name used by one tribe might differ from one used by another tribe for the same time period, or be

the same name but represent a different time period. The name itself was often a description relating to a

particular activity/event that usually occurred during that time in their location.

Colonial Americans adopted some of the Native American full Moon names and applied them to their own

calendar system (primarily Julian, and later, Gregorian). Since the Gregorian calendar is the system that many

in North America use today, that is how we have presented the list of Moon names, as a frame of reference.

The Native American names have been listed by the month in the Gregorian calendar to which they are most

closely associated.

Native American Full Moon Names and Their Meanings

The Full Moon Names we use in the Almanac come from the Algonquin tribes who lived in regions from New

England to Lake Superior. They are the names the Colonial Americans adapted most. Note that each full Moon

name was applied to the entire lunar month in which it occurred.

Month Name Description

January Full Wolf Moon This full Moon appeared when wolves howled in hunger outside the villages. It is also

known as the Old Moon. To some Native American tribes, this was the Snow Moon, but

most applied that name to the next full Moon, in February.

February Full Snow Moon Usually the heaviest snows fall in February. Hunting becomes very difficult, and hence to some Native American tribes this was the Hunger Moon.

March Full Worm Moon At the time of this spring Moon, the ground begins to soften and earthworm casts reappear,

inviting the return of robins. This is also known as the Sap Moon, as it marks the time

when maple sap begins to flow and the annual tapping of maple trees begins.

April Full Pink Moon This full Moon heralded the appearance of the moss pink, or wild ground phlox—one of

the first spring flowers. It is also known as the Sprouting Grass Moon, the Egg Moon, and

the Fish Moon.

May Full Flower

Moon

Flowers spring forth in abundance this month. Some Algonquin tribes knew this full Moon

as the Corn Planting Moon or the Milk Moon.

June Full Strawberry Moon

The Algonquin tribes knew this Moon as a time to gather ripening strawberries. It is also known as the Rose Moon and the Hot Moon.

July Full Buck Moon Bucks begin to grow new antlers at this time. This full Moon was also known as the Thunder Moon, because thunderstorms are so frequent during this month.

August Full Sturgeon Moon

Some Native American tribes knew that the sturgeon of the Great Lakes and Lake

Champlain were most readily caught during this full Moon. Others called it the Green Corn Moon.

September Full Corn Moon This full Moon corresponds with the time of harvesting corn. It is also called the Barley

Moon, because it is the time to harvest and thresh the ripened barley. The Harvest Moon is

the full Moon nearest the autumnal equinox, which can occur in September or October and is bright enough to allow finishing all the harvest chores.

October Full Hunter's Moon

This is the month when the leaves are falling and the game is fattened. Now is the time for

hunting and laying in a store of provisions for the long winter ahead. October's Moon is also known as the Travel Moon and the Dying Moon.

November Full Beaver Moon

For both the colonists and the Algonquin tribes, this was the time to set beaver traps before

the swamps froze, to ensure a supply of warm winter furs. This full Moon was also called

the Frost Moon.

December Full Cold Moon This is the month when the winter cold fastens its grip and the nights become long and

dark. This full Moon is also called the Long Nights Moon by some Native American

tribes.

Note: The Harvest Moon is the full Moon that occurs closest to the autumnal equinox. It can occur in either September or October. At this time,

crops such as corn, pumpkins, squash, and wild rice are ready for gathering.

Rose Rosette, Killer With A Double-Edged Sword

By Melody Rose (melody)July 5, 2014

There's a killer loose in the garden. It's silent and invisible, with superpowers that overwhelm any rose it

infects. And it never goes away. So you should always be on the lookout for it.

Rose rosette has been marching across North America for decades

mowing down roses at an alarming rate. This viral disease is carried by an

almost invisible eriophyid mite called Phyllacoptes fructiphylus and the

results of infection are devastating. It was first identified as early as 1941

in Wyoming when farmers noticed that the imported multiflora rose they

were using as natural fencing was

infected.

That's right, the invasive and

destructive Rosa multiflora that

has caused so much havoc with

farmers and natural areas is especially susceptible. This plant was

originally imported from Japan as a natural barrier and for erosion

control in the late 1700s. Birds quickly spread the seeds and it soon

became a major pest, especially in the eastern half of North America and

currently 30 states report it on their Invasive and Noxious Plant lists.

Conservationists were rejoicing. The microscopic mite, native to North

America and spread by wind or touching plants was winning a battle that

had been fought for decades. The only problem was, the celebration was

somewhat premature. Our cultivated darlings and queens of the garden,

were also susceptible.

Until the last decade or so, rose

rosette was not a disease that

many gardeners were familiar

with. It seems that the widespread use of the popular Knockout® roses

may have helped it to gain a foothold in our gardens. Knockouts® are

the perfect rose for the lazy gardener. They bloom all season, require

little care and tend to be immune to most of the ills that plague their

more delicate cousins. Gardeners embraced these great plants and

because of their low maintenance, they were often planted in huge drifts

by parks and in commercial landscaping. Here in my town, they

surround the City Hall, banks, most churches, schools and even gas

stations and convenience stores. Why plant a plain, green boxwood

when you can have roses that bloom all summer, right? Most of these

roses are planted in tight groups, to show off the season-long drifts of

color. The effect is beautiful, and my town is lovely when they are all in

bloom. Unfortunately, I've had to stop in at City Hall this week to

inform them that the roses that are planted around our Court Square are

infected.

Symptoms of rose rosette include dark red new growth that appears

malformed. Often the infected canes develop bushy terminal ends called

'witches brooms'. Blooms are distorted, often accompanied by excessive

thorns, unusual leaf growth and uncharacteristically long lateral shoots.

The virus travels down the cane into the roots of the plant and spreads

throughout the rose. From the initial infection to ultimate death is

estimated to be about two years. There is no known pesticide that controls

this mite and the only treatment is to remove the plant, including the roots.

While the mite does not live in the soil, traces of roots will remain, so

roses cannot be replanted in the same area. It is a death sentence for the

rose. Any domesticated rose is susceptible, so just because you do not

have any Knockouts® in your garden does not make you safe. It is deadly

for species and cultivated roses

Good garden hygiene will help control

the spread of this killer. Avoid planting

roses in tight groups, giving them at

least six feet on center. Tightly massed foliage allows the mite to move from

plant to plant easily. If you live in a rural area, try to remove any Rosa

multiflora that may be lurking upwind in the fields and fence rows. Some

experts advise pruning roses back by two thirds in early spring to potentially

remove any mites that may have overwintered on the canes. Always destroy

pruned canes and leaf litter away from your garden. Be observant and

quickly remove any plant that appears infected, being careful not to shake or

brush the infected plant on your healthy roses. Some experts even advocate

removing the surrounding soil if

other roses are nearby.

We should all take this viral threat

seriously. It is only through

education and diligence that we can protect our cherished roses. Learn

the symptoms and report any infection to your County Extension

Agent. Even if rose rosette isn't in your own garden, if it is in your

neighborhood, your roses are at risk. Gardeners working together can

get this serious problem under control.

Sources used in this article and for more information on rose rosette.

Missouri Botanical Garden, Clemson University Cooperative

Extension, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Michigan

State Univerity, Southern Living

About Melody Rose

I come from a long line of Kentuckians who love the Good Earth. I

love to learn about every living thing, and love to share what I've

learned. Photography is one of my passions, and all of the images in

my articles are my own, except where credited

Read more:

http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/4990/#ixzz37w00I1dB

Easy Watering Of Strawberry Jars!

By Cathy M Wallace (cathy4) June 23, 2014

Something about the shape of strawberry jars has always appealed to me, I've admired well-planted pots and

tried for years to make mine look as good. Every year it was something; the top plants didn't grow, the plants

at the bottom rotted or dried out. The owner of a local garden center took pity on me and gave me a few tricks

that have made all the difference. Today, I'll share them with each of you.

Make sure your pot is clean and sanitary before you start. Brush out any

old dirt, wash and then rinse the pot in a dilution of bleach and water,

about 1 cup of bleach to 2 gallons of water, then rinse again with clear

water. Don't let a clay pot soak in the bleach water, just rinse it.

Since the pots with

flowers will sit on

the patio, I like to

put a coffee filter in

the bottom to keep

dirt from leaking. As

you will see later,

this also helps with

one of the watering tricks. Cut a piece of wicking, such as a

piece of old pantyhose, and poke it through the coffee filter.

Have the panty hose hang part way out of the pot (about an

inch). This helps keep the bottom plants from sitting in soil

that is too wet if you've had a stretch of rain. It will actually

wick water out of the pot. I know this doesn't make sense, but it works. A detailed discussion of this process is

found in the Container Gardening Forum.

Use a well draining potting soil, and if it doesn't have water crystals, now is the time to add them. Put the

potting soil in a bucket and add water until it is very moist but not soggy. Fill the strawberry pot almost to the

level of the first holes. Pull that piece of panty hose wick up into this first few inches of soil.

If you are using bedding plants, you may wonder how will you get that big ball of roots and soil through that

little hole? Here's a trick! Put the plant into the big opening at the top and carefully work the plants out through

the hole. You might even wrap the leaves in a strip of newspaper to keep them together. Totally backwards

from what I would try to do. Don't overfill the hole, one plant per hole is plenty, they will fill out. Push the

rootball gently down into the wet potting soil.

Once you have the lowest level of holes with filled with plants, adjust

them so that the roots are all in the pot, not way out in the openings.

Watering trick # 1. If the pot is shallow, get the cardboard tube from

a roll of toilet paper. If it is taller, use a paper towel roll. Stand the

roll up in the center of the pot and fill with gravel or small rocks. I

like to use the rounded glass that is used in flower arranging as they

are easier to pick out at the end of the summer before I dump the dirt

into the compost heap. Rocks in the compost don't thrill me.

Add more potting soil up to the next level of openings, keeping the paper roll centered as best you can. It

doesn't have to be perfect, or I wouldn't be doing it. Plant the next row of plants, and repeat until you get several

inches from the top.

Planting the top plants was where I made my biggest mistake. Wanting a filled out pot immediately, I would

pack in as many plants as fit into the top, then would wonder why they didn't get any bigger. They didn't have

anywhere to grow! For every plant you put in the top, make sure there is an equal amount of room with fresh

potting soil next to it. For my smallest pot, the brown jar in the picture above, only two plants will fit. The

yellow jar and the tall jar will each get three, maybe 4. Because my

soil was nice and wet to start with, I don't water right away, but let

everything settle down on its own.

If the cardboard tube sticks up out of the soil, I like to cut it off when

I'm planting flowers. When it is time to water the pot, pour the water

slowly into the center pipe of rocks. This gets water right to all of the

roots in a more even fashion. The cardboard tube will fall apart in no

time, leaving just the rocks down the center.

Now it is time to plant the tall strawberry jar that will actually have

strawberry plants.

Watering trick #2. I went to the local box store and asked for a scrap end of plastic PVC pipe cut a bit taller

than my pot and a fitted end cap. At home, I put the capped pipe into the unplanted pot (cap down), and marked

where the openings in the jar were located, minus a couple of inches because it

won't go all the way to the bottom. With my helpful neighbor Jerry, we drilled

small weep holes at the marks on the pipe. Plant the strawberry jar in the same

fashion as the bedding plants, making sure the strawberry roots are covered,

but the crown of the plant must not be sitting under the dirt. On this pot, I leave

the pipe sticking out of the top. This is a choice

you can make, I like it because the pipe will

hold more water. This pot sits on the wall of

the raised vegetable bed, so looks aren't as

important. Don't fill the pipe with rocks, it isn't

necessary. If I decide to cover the pot with

netting, I hook the netting on this pipe to keep

it up high on top.

Bonus Trick! Grandpa taught me this last trick for planting strawberries. Put

small red colored items into the edge of each opening and a few in the top. He

used bottle caps, but plastic checkers or rocks with a coat of red nail polish

work just fine. The birds will hopefully get confused and give up before your

berries turn red.

Now if you are a messy gardener like me, there will be dirt all over the pots, the

table and you. This is a happy thing! You can rinse the dirt off later, just sit and

enjoy your work for now. In no time at all, you will have pretty, full strawberry

jars, and fresh berries for breakfast each day, and who wouldn't love that?

Now is a good time to do these jars as you are thinning your berry patch.

These pictures were taken in my yard.

From Seed to Harvest and Beyond: Garden Journal and Calendar

Editor's note

The following abstract describes a publication that is only available for purchase.

Donna Aufdenberg

Horticulture Specialist

Sarah Denkler

Horticulture Specialist

Kate Kammler

Horticulture Specialist

The From Seed to Harvest and Beyond: Garden Journal and Calendar is a garden journal for

Missouri gardeners, as well as a how-to guide and information resource. It provides a place to

keep all gardening information, plans and notes together.

Keeping a garden journal is a great way to organize and keep track of the how, when, where and what of the gardening season.

Writing down your thoughts, successes, failures, needed improvements and new ideas as the gardening season progresses is

easier than struggling to remember them several months after the season has ended. Many gardeners believe the keys to

successful gardening are to get your plans on paper first and to keep records. This journal allows a gardener to do this.

What this journal contains

Graphs for sketching and planning the basic vegetable garden and landscape areas to make it easier to plan for the current garden season as well as seasons to come.

Calendars without dates so this journal can be used any year. Each monthly calendar is paired with a page of tips and reminders of what to do in the garden during that month.

Plenty of space for recording your thoughts and noting garden successes and needed plant improvements.

Forms for recording seed and plant buying information, seed starting, flowers blooming, and pest control methods.

Information pages that will help to guide you in the gardening season, and a glossary of garden terms.

An index of MU Extension gardening guides.

Keywords

Attracting beneficial insects

Compost

Container gardening

Crop rotation planner

Disease control

Fall gardening tips

Flower garden planning

Garden fertility

Gardening with children

Gardening tips

Garden plot plan

Garden term glossary

Insect control

Monthly gardening calendar

Mulch

Organic matter

Outdoor seed planting

Pest control

Pest diagnostics

Plant hardiness zone

Planting calendar

Plant propagation

Soil amendment

Soil preparation

Soil testing

Pages - 76

76

MP928, From Seed to Harvest

and Beyond: Garden Journal

and Calendar

Price: $15.00

Availability:

Order Now – It is going fast!

BEST MEXICAN BEEF CASSEROLE EVER!

Ingredients:

1 lb extra lean ground beef

1 medium onion chopped

1 can kernel corn drained

1 can black beans rinsed and drained

1 pkg taco seasonings mix

8 to 12 corn tortillas

3/4 cup nonfat sour cream

2 cans rotel tomatoes with green

chiles drained

1/3 cup Mexican blend or taco cheese shredded

Sliced jalapeno peppers

Directions:

Brown ground beef and onions together for about 10 to 12 minutes, drain.

Add corn, beans, tomatoes and taco seasonings mix well and simmer for 5 minutes.

Spray baking dish 2 quart 8x12 inches.

Place half of tortillas in bottom.

Spoon half of beef mixture on top, place sour cream over beef. Then layer last tortillas and then

beef mixture.

Place in heated 350 degree F. oven and bake for 25 minutes remove from oven and and

sprinkle with cheese and add sliced jalapeno peppers on top.

NOTE MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS WELL DRAINED!

Cook for another 5 minutes or till cheese is melted. Let stand for 5 minutes and serve.

Crispy battered, flour-rolled okra. Few things make an Ozark summer better.

Miss Shirley’s Fried Okra There is cornmeal-rolled fried okra. There is flour-rolled fried okra. And then there is Miss Shirley’s Fried Okra.

This recipe calls for includes homemade pancake batter and a cast iron skillet, but we’re getting ahead of

ourselves.

Ingredients:

3 cups sliced okra (or more)

Best cut with very sharp knife

1 cup flour (or more)

1/4 cup vegetable oil

Batter Ingredients:

1 1/4 cups flour

3 teaspoons baking powder

1 beaten egg

1 cup milk (or more)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Sift flour, baking powder, and salt. In a separate bowl, beat egg, milk and vegetable oil. Gently add egg mixture to flour

mixture, whisking just until smooth. You do need a fairly thin batter, so add more milk if needed. Add vegetable oil to

cast iron skillet, heating to medium heat. Drop okra slices into batter. Pass into plate of flour and gently toss to cover.

Add okra slices to hot oil and fry until golden brown (about five minutes per side), turning once. Remove from oil and

place on paper towels. Salt and serve at once.

plate 2. Three cups sliced okra is a good amount to start, but you will have enough batter for more okra if you like. Be

sure the okra pods are tender and not spiny.

plate 3. Mixing the egg, milk and vegetable oil separately

helps to get just the right consistency of pancake batter.

plate 5. An ideal batter dipping station. The cast iron skillet with hot oil is just to the right, ensuring a smooth workflow.

plate 4. Gently whisk batter until it looks like this.

You want it smooth but not beaten too much.

The baking powder causes the bubbles to

appear.

plate 7. Dunking the battered okra slices in flour is

critical for a tender but crispy finish.

plate 8. You can use your fingers or a fork, but either way,

gently toss the okra in flour until well coated.

plate 10. Browning nicely, these are just about done.

plate 11. The finished product — Mie to have seconds.

plate 6. Be sure to use enough milk in the

batter to produce a smooth consistency

plate 9. The okra need about five minutes in hot oil

per side. Be sure to use a cast iron skillet.

plate 9. The okra need about five minutes in hot oil

per side. Be sure to use a cast iron skillet.

plate 10. Browning nicely, these are just about done.

plate 11. The finished product — Miss Shirley’s

Fried Okra. Be sure to have seconds.