FYLDE riOUI^lTAlNSERING CLUB flARCH, 1 9 8 7 .

NEWSLETTER

FILTHY RICH AND CATFLAPS An o t h e r y e a r s w i r l s av;ay and i t ' s t i m e a g a i n f o r t h a t b i g n i g h t i n t h e c l u b c a l e n d a r - The A^Gciioo The f a i t h f u l g a t h e r round t h e stage t o hear our chairman, r-lro E a r l e , s t r i k e o f f l a s t y e a r and usher us i n t o a new oneo A l l ' s g o i n g w e l l , I . t h o u g h t , u n t i l he s l a g g e d o f f t h e News­l e t t e r ! T h a t ' s i t i . I'm n o t w r i t i n g any more! I ' l l f i n d someone e l s e t o do t h e j o b I L i t t l e d i d 1 know t h a t I v/ould be b l o g g e d l a t e r t o c a r r y on w r i t i n g t h e s e v e r y pageso The m e e t i n g p r o g r e s s e d a t a good pace, as d i d t h e a l e g u z z l i n g o The f i r s t t h i n g t o c r o p up was t h a t you may v ; e l l f i n d t h e m i n u t e s o f t h e AGil e n c l o s e d w i t h t h i s p u b l i c a t i o n ^ George P a r k e r t h e n b r o u g h t up t h e s u b j e c t o f F i r e Doors a t S t a i r o These c o u l d be i n t h e f o r m o f B i g Cat F l a p s ! Some-oijte s u g g e s t e d t h a t t h e y would have t o be BIG, as t h e r e were c»bainly some BIG CATS i n t h e FilC! "So l o n g as t h e y were b i g el^pugh f o r Steve S v / i n d e l l s t h e y ' d be OK" I t h o u g h t , r e c a l l i n g t n e i n c i d e n t a few y e a r s ago v/hen S t e v e , r e t u r n i n g home from a n i g h t on t h e town had l o s t h i s key^ The o n l y ivay i n was t h r o u g h t h e c a t f l a p o Steve was found h a l f w a y t h r o u g h t h e f l a p , f a s t a s l e e p •"jbviously f i n i s h e d o f f by h i s e f f o r t s o The n e x t t h i n g I knew Kule 8 was g e t t i n g some s t i c k ; what­e v e r Rule 0 i s ? Then f o l l o w e d t h e e l e c t i o n 0 1 o f f i c e r s and h o p e f u l l y a beer b r e a k ! ; No c o n t r o v e r s y h e r e , b u t I was a b i t w o r r i e d by t h e r e a p p o i n t ­ment o f t h e Club S e c r e t a r y , h a v i n g caught him on a number o f o c c a s i o n s t r y i n g t o g o t i n t o t h e wrong room c l u t c h i n g a r m f u l s o f o f a l e ! Mew names wore K e v i n Stephens, h u t s e c r e t a r y a t L i t t l e L a n g d a l e ; John Hickman a t S t a i r and L o u i s e F o r t u n e , t a k i n g o v e r as S o c i a l S e c r e t a r y f r o m a v e r y i m p r e s s i v e Donald Ducko God h e l p her t r y i n g t o iteep you l o t happy on a V/ednesday evenings An i m e n v i a b l e t a s k ! Four nev/ committee members t o o k t h e i r s e a t s - Pete Soscoe (nev/?), Dave \/ood, Don N i c h o l and C h e r r y E a r l o . The T r e a s u r e r , P a u l T a y l o r , d e c l a r e d t h e Club s t i l l ' s t i n k . i n g r i c h ' a n d t h e n proceeded t o propose an i n c r e a s e i n c l u b f e e s ! O b v i o u s l y t o f u n d h i s i n c r e a s i n g l y f r e q u e n t t r i p s abroado H e a r i n g t h i s c h e e r i n g news, t h e m e e t i n g began t o d o l e o u t th e c l u b ' s money t o v a r i o u s e x p e d i t i o n s , g u i d e books, member­s h i p c a r d s , t o e and sweat s h i r t s e t c ! S e v e r a l p e o p l e f e l t l o f t o u t ! i-lick T o l l e y a p p e a l e d f o r some dosh f o r new c a v i n g equipment and Dave C l a r k e n q u i r e d about more coach meets» V/e were reminded tha.t c l u b c a r s t i c k e r s were s t i l l a v a i l a b l e and t h a t t h e Club Di n n e r w o u l d a g a i n 'happen' a t t h e Old Dungeon G h y l l o K e v i n a p p e a l e d f o r names f o r t h e proposed P r e s t o n C l i m b i n g W a l l v/hich d e f i n i t e l y l o o k s l i k e happeningc I t was 1 0 o 5 5 5 l a s t o r d e r s and t h e m e e t i n g was b r o u g h t t o a c l o s o o 'Not bad' as t h e y go, I t h o u g h t , as I headed f o r t h a t l a s t p i n t . The end o f a n o t h e r c l u b y e a r and t h e b e g i n n i n g o f . a new era= As I walked dov/n t h e s t a i r s I passed t h e S e c r e t a r y - arms f u l l o f b e e r , s t i l l t r y i n g t o g e t i n t o t h a t room!

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Mark Watson ) Drid,i;et W i l l i a m s ) o ohn G o W i l l i a m

Joh.n Ba Trevorrov; " •

Jan .Sharpies

Ga.vin B a x t e r

N o a l Robinson (Robbo)

Gary Rodford o i o n Murray.

A l i s t a i r I L Welsh

Henry Eolddon ,. •

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David Brock-N i c h o l a Bamford Crai^^^ S m i t h

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9 9 Bush Lane, F r e c k l o t o n , Lanes. T e l : F r e c k l e t o n 6 3 5 0 8 8

2 9 B a l d w i n Grove, B l a c k p o o l . T e l : , 6 7 1 0 5 o

k7 P r e s t o n New Rd, Blackpool., 2 3 K i r k s t o n e Avenue, Fl e e t w o o d Lanes. T e l : Fleetwood. 3 0 5 8 .

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John .Barnesy Edv/ard^GoSves, Pvhona G i l e s , Hark Jackson, Dave Whitmore-., Steve S h e r r i n g t o n and Bob Barker^

CHANGES OF ADDRESS Most i'lembers v . d l l now have a new addres s l i s t . I f t h e r e a re any e r r o r s on y o u r l i s t , p l e a s e r e p o r t them t o t h e E d i t o r ^ P c to « S h o i l a Roscoc 1 5 Delaware Rd, Hoo H i l l , Layton,'"

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Bob B a r k e r

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May 1-3rd Langdale 8-9th S t a i r 1 5 - l 6 t h Langdale 22-24th S t a i r 29--50th Langdale

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SOCIALS A l l a t the Brock S p o r t s and S o c i a l Club, P o u l t o n , on t h e f i r s t V/ednesday o f t h e inontho 8 = 30 pm s t a r t , u n l e s s o t h e r w i s e i n d i c a t e d o

1st A p r i l S l i d e C o m p e t i t i o n 6th May M a l t a Rock C l i m b s . -Roger Brookes shov;s us t h e d e l i g h t s o f c l i m b i n g on t h i s i s l a n d

i n t h e Medo and no doubt w i l l be f l o g g i n g h i s imminent Nev/ Routes Guide BooiCo I t sho-ald be n o t e d t h a t t h e Club now o f f i c i a l l y meet a t t h e Breck and members ca j i go t o t h e Club any Wednesday e v e n i n g t o meet i n th e b a r . Stay t u n e d t o t h e m o n t h l y f a c t s h e e t s f o r more u p - t o -date d e t a i l s about meets and socials«

OUTDOOR i i s g r s l 4 ~ 1 5 t h March F a m i l y Weekend L i t t l e Langdale 21"=22nd i i a r c h W o r k i n g V/eekend L i t t l e Langdale K e v i n w i l l be h o p i n g t o keep up t h e good work o f P h i l Caley on t h i s "Scoring C l e a n i n g Meet'' so l e t s have a good t u r n o u t from you p e o p l e o u t there» Remembers a l l you i n t r o o members a w o r k i n g weekend c o u n t s as two meets t o w a r d s f u l l membership! 2o-29th March I n t r o d u c t o r y Members Meet, S t a i r , Meet Leader: Pete Roscoe, T e l : Bla c l ^ p o o l 302209 = A chance f o r a l l you intro« members m^entioned e a r l i e r p l u s ma.ny more t o g e t i n t o Club meets and g o i n g t o the hutso I n c l u d e s B e g i n n e r s ' Roclc C l i m b i n g , so l e t s see a l l y o u b u d d i n g Johnny Dav/es'es o u t t h e r e d o i n g i t I • 4th - 5 t h A p r i l Trem.adoc - Moelv;yns Hut Meet Leader: Mark H a r d i n g o The weekend a f t e r you've lee^rned t h e r o p e s , a chance t o go o u t o.nd p r a c t i c e ! An e x c e l l e n t meet t o a c r a g w i t h s o m e t h i n g f o r e v e r y o n e . A l s o w a l k i n g i n t h e Moelwyns. The h u t i s j u s t seconds from t h e c r a g , o r v i c e v e r s a and t h e c a f e i s j u s t over t h o roado The pub's a b i t f u r t h e r b u t s e l l s good Marstons -v / e l l v/orth t h o walkJ

EASTER 17th-20th A p r i l THE SOUTH WEST (Rock C l i m b i n g ) Meet Leader: P h i l Caloyo T h i s l o o k s l i k e b e i n g a ' f u l l b o r e ' Cornv/all meet; t h e l i k e s o f v/hich have n o t been seen s i n c e John T a t s l e f t f o r Hong i^ong! For t h o s e o f you v/ho don't remember t h a t . i t ' s a f a i r fev/ y e a r s o.go. W i t h t h e weather h o t t i n g up and a nev/ g u i d e t o go a t w i t h l o a d s o f b r i l l i a n t r o u t e s , t h i s p r o m i s e s t o be one h e l l o f a meet!

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EASTSP 1 ? t ] i " 2 0 t h A p r i l ACIPUSHELLACK, SCOTLAND Meot Leader: L o u i s e I ' o r t u n e o T e l . Fleetv/ocd 65^7„ T h i s p l a c e l i e s sor;ev;here n o r t h o f F o r t B i l l , i n S c o t l a n d -Hut Acconii'iodationo

TIIE PEV; SYLLABUS!

QUnt -soon, t h i s v a l u a b l e ; p i e c e .of. .card cont..:.Ln-s hew y e a r ' s s e c r e t s i n c l u d i n g a . l l t h e o l d f a v o u r i t e s p l u s one or• two '• nev/ios, sov.ie o f w h i c h a r e r e v e a l e d below! 2 - 4 t h Hay (l.ay Day VIeehond) . FAi-ilLY WEEI^END, STAIP 9th-'10th :.ay CORRIS HUT Meet Leader: John Wisenan, Tel."o26594. WonderfiiL h u t i n a vi l l a : : - o w i t h a w o n d e r f u l pub. W a l k i n g i n Mid V/ales and c l i m b i n g a t Cwra Cowarch o r on Cader I d r i s . l 6 " 1 7 t h r a y INTkODUCTOPY MEi-aSRS' liEET:

• LITTLE LANGDALEo Meet Leader: John Hickman. A n o t h e r chance f o r t h e d r o v e s o f i n t r a < , members t o show t h e i r f a c e s a t t h e o t h e r h u t o H o p e f u l l y t h e meet l e a d e r w i l l be a b l e t o keep h i s beer dov/n on t h i s o c c a s i o n !

23-25th May WHIT WEEKEND ISLE OF MAM Meet Leader: John Hickmo-nn John i s p r e s e n t l y i n v e s t i g a t i n g t he l o g i s t i c s o f r u n n i n g a moot t o t h i s wonderoua i s l O c I f t h i s p r o v e s a l i t t l e c o s t l y , • t h e n t he u s u a l A r r a n venue may be used again=

3 0 t h i^Kiy ~ 6 t h June CLUiilE LODGE. Meet Leader: Eddie C r a i g . T e l : Garstang 4l§9". W a l k i n g i n t h e h i g l i i a n d s o f S c o t l a n d on t h i s ever p o p u l a r ..v/eek l o n g meetc

• 6 t h - 7 t h June ' WORl.ING WEEKEND, STAIR Some r.iajor w:r-k. p e n c i l l e d i n f o i r ' t h i s meet, " P a i n t i n g • t h e " o u t s i d e v / a l l s and o r e c t i o u o f a ; j i n s t o r e a re on t h e c a r d s . A . b i g t u r n o u t v ; i l l be a p p r e c i a t e d o

2 9 t h ' A u g u s t - 6 t K September LUNDi tiEET Meet Leader: Mick T o l l e y . T e l : IM^-oston 713S'I7 i-iick i s nov.f t a l c i n g nam,es and de] p o s i t s f o r t h i s b r i l l i a n t moeto 14 p l a c e s a re up f o r g r a b s i n t h e b a r n . The c o s t i s i n . t h e regio.r. o f £ 2 0 = p e r j)- ' '''3on p l u s y o u r boat f a r e ( y e s , no h e l i c o p t e r s t h i s y e a r ! ) Payable on t h o b o a t . Mick r e q u i r e s p o s i t i v e noiiios and d e p c s i t s -.^f -Zn^OO. i f p o s s i b l e b e f o r e E a s t e r . C o n t a c t Mick f o r more details«

AN iiPOLOGY " . . \

The r e t i r i n g S o c i a l S e c r e t a r y , Don N i c h o l , would l i k e . t o p u b l i c l y a p l o g i s e t o Pete R O S C L ' O f o r f a i l i n g t o i j o n t i o n h i s China L e c t u r e i n t h e A.G.M^ S o c i a l See's R e p o r t .

Ai^NLiAL SUBSCRIPTIONS TO INCREASE SHOCK! i"es! As men t i o n e d e a r l i e r t h e Annual S u b s c r i p t i o n s have been r a i s e d t o £7=00 f o r s i n g l e members, and :o10oOO f o r j o i n t membership. " Thi;- take^j e f f e c t f r . - ' t h e A-inual, G e n e r a l - ^ e e t i . ^ , ; , o. a l l ; u v . i p a i d .v'Wi-iOS out t h e r e have coppedkout! _ 1 w i l l r e m i n d you, w h i l s t t he T r e a s u r e r i s abr o a d , t h a t t h i s yo:.r's f o e s a re nov/ due.. Please send them o f f t o I'iTo T a y l o r p o s t h a s t e so t l i a c he can d e a l w i t h them on h i s r e t u r n f r o m v/arLiOr c l i m e S o

-• • • • •• • •• M a r t i n " Dale, s e l f - c o n f e s s e d p a i d swine

'

HUT FEES RhiMIN G N C I I A N G E D :

A g r e a t v i c t o r y f o r t h e massed a c t i v e s making t h e h u t s t h e cheapest dosses i n t h e c o u n t r y ! So g e t up t h e r e more o f t e n , slu;:'ibering me-nbership, and malce use o f t h e Club's a s s e t s .

BIG L E C T U R E S U C C E S S

The b i g l e c t u r e a t t h e Teanlov/e Centre back i n October, s t a r r i n g our v e r y own members r a i s e d -£130.00. A cheque f o r t h i s amount was p r e s e n t e d t o Kendal i-iountain Rescue Team a t t h e r e c e n t s o c i a l by our c hairman, Dave EarlOo

1 9 8 7 FYLDE MoGo KHISTWAR EXPEDITIOrl P l a n s a r e a l r e a d y w e l l advanced f o r an e x p e d i t i o n made up o f F y l d e members t o v i s i t t h e Khistv/ar r e g i o n o f the Himalayas i n Autum_n 1987= Members o f t h e e x p e d i t i o n , Andy D u n h i l l , S t u a r t Gascoyne, Mark Jackson, A l P eel and Roger Brookes a r e h o p i n g t o bag an u n c l i m b e d p e a k , Hagshu, 21/22,000 f e e t h i g h d u r i n g t h e i r t r i p o .At t h e A„GoMo, t h e Club agreed t o donate £250.00 t o t h e e x p e d i t i o n and a l s o malce a f u r t h e r £1,000.00 a v a i l a b l e t o t h e l a d s w h i l s t t h e y a r e o u t t h e r e t o drav/ upon i n t h e event o f any d e s p e r a t e emergencyo T h i s o f c ourse would be r e p a y a b l e . The Club w i s h e s you a l l good l u c k w i t h t h i s v e n t u r e . We w i l l keep you i n f o r m e d o f a n y f u r t h e r d e v e l o p ­ments i n t h e s e -p^^es,,

i-lALTA GUIDEBOOi: Roger Brookes' l o n g a w a i t e d , FMC funded, p i a l t a guidebook i s due i n t h e shops i n A p r i l . I t c o n t a i n s o v e r 200 new r o u t e s v / i t h 'E' grades a n d t e c h j i i c a l g r a d e s . Most o f these were p u t up by Roger a n d o t h e r members o f t h e Club and a p p a r e n t l y t h e r e ' s s t i l l more t o go a t . The L-^uide w i l l c o s t £2 = 99 b u t .there s h o u l d be some going, a t a r educed r a t e t o Club members, a v a i l a b l e f r o m t h e S e c r e t a r y =

WIN A rlALTA GUIDEBOOK!! Yes! To commemorate t h e r e l e a s e o f t h i s f i n e p u b l i c a t i o n y o u c o u l d v/in a 'c'lalta g u i d e s i g n e d by t h e a u t h o r , i n S t u a r t Gascoyne's n o t so v e r y easy c o m p e t i t i o n o I n c l u d e s f a b u l o u s p r i z e s f o r t h e r u n n e r s u p ! Read on f o r more d e t a i l s .

GRINDLEFORD HUT

We have now a g r e e d t o a r e c i p r o c a j r i g h t s ' d e a l w i t h t h e U n i ­v e r s i t y o f London Mountain Club f o r t h e use o f t h e i r h u t i n G r i n d l e f o r d , D e r b y s h i r e . T h i s d e a l i s f o r a y e a r ' s t r i a l r u n o n l y a t p r e s e n t a n d a l l o w s us t o use t h e h u t , b o o k i n g 10 days i n advaaice a n d i s l i n M t e d t o 4 p e o p l e a t a t i m e , and t h e saxie f o r them a t o u r h u t s . We had a v e r y s u c c e s s f u l meet t h e r e l a s t y e a r , a n d t l i O h u t i s e x c e l l e n t a n d i n a f i n e s i t u a t i o u o Anyone c o n s i d e r i n g t a l k i n g a team t h e r e , c o n t a c t t i f e B o oking S e c r e t a r y , John Wiseman, f o r more d e t a i l s ^

BoMoC. NE\7S AND C^XJRSES As u s u a l a t t h i s t i m e o f y e a r the E d i t o r i s shov/ered w i t h l o a d s o f l e a f l e t s , b r o c h u r e s e t c . about BMC c o u r s e s , h o l i d a y s e t c . . T h i s y e a r i s no e x c e p t i o n . Anyone i n t e r e s t e d i n c l i m b i n g E5 i n a v/eek, u s i n g a compass underv/ater, h u n t i n g t h e y e t i i n N o r t h Wales, i c e c l i m b i n g i n C o r n w a l l , b e i n g a sherpa i n K h i s t w a r , even r o c k c l i m b i n g f o r t h e over 50s, p l e a s e c o n t a c t t h e E d i t o r

/ . c - . . 6

p . 6

f o r more d e t a i l B . Other BMC nev/s i n c l u d e s t h e i r Annual D i n n e r ; t h i s y e a r a t t h e P o y a l Oak I b t e l , k o s w i c k on S at. 27th A p r i l . T i c k e t s are cBl0.00(£9o0 f o r a group b o o k i n g o f 8 o r i:iore)o T h i s i n c l u d e s t h e u s u a l d i s c o and t h e guest-speaker, S i d Cross, o f t h e Langdale i a o u n t a i n Rescue Team. The AGM w i l l be h e l d a t t h e same venue a t A,30 pm on t h o same day. A l s o o f n o t e i s t h o Symposium e n t i t l e d '^Pock '87 -The S t a t e o f t h e Art'' on modern r o c k c l i m b i n g ' t o ' be h e l d a t P l a s Y .:Brenin on 2 1 s t March 1937 from 10.30 am ' t i l l a t e . T h i s f e a t u r e s a h o s t o f b i g - r o c k c l i m b i n g names a l l f l e x i n g h i s o r her muscles. T i c k e t s are -B oOO and i n c l u d e s t h e i n c v i t a b l o d i s c o and bar w h i c h w i l l s t a y open ' t i l you drop i t says h e r e . Mot e x a c t l y conducive t o h i g h s t a n d a r d r o c k c l i m b i n g , b u t i n my view p r o b a b l y .the b e s t b i t ' •

F u r t h e r d e t a i l s from t h e M d i t o r .

NBM JAGiMLT FOM STAIR An ikCoB.' ( ? ) has r e c e n t l y been f i t t e d t o Sta.ir v/hich means no more shocks i n t h e showers. A l s o bhe immersion tan:^ now has a l o v e l y now r e d J a c k e t . Simon Fenna has been-seen r e c e n t l y w a l k i n g around w e a r i n g t h o o l d one. These though w i l l prove no d e t e r r e n t t o t h o l o . t e s t m.enace a t b o t h huts.-.- J e r r y Evans has r e c e n t l y g o t i n t o t h e h a b i t o f g e t t i n g i n t o t h o wrong bunk when r e t u r n i n g i r o i - i an e a r l y morning bog v i s i t . F o r t u ­n a t e l y J e r r y i s q u i t e hariiMess and u s u a l l y j u s t goes t o s l e e p , r e g a r d l e s s o f s l e e p i n g ba^,. He has managed t o s t e e r h i m s e l f i n t o che c o r r e c i ; dorms so f a r . Kow can t h i s man bo stopped? You have been warned;

BIG NOSE

Greetkngs nose p i c k e r s I t ' s t h e s t a r t o f a new se.ason and t h e r e ' s p l e n t y o f good i n j u r y news t o h i t you v / i t h . But f i r s t bac];- t o l a s t s e a s o n l News d r i b b l i n g ±n from over t h e b o r d e r i s t h a t P a u l G r e e n s t i c k l a s t y e a r managed an ascent o f an E„6 on Blue Scar o v e r two days. Whether he was a i d e d and a b e t t e d by P a u l C l a r k e , wo w i l l n ever know=. Both o f them have nov/ s u s t a i n e d i n j u r i e s t r a i n i n g f o r t h e new season. Greensponge has" an ''Andy P o l l i t t shouMder''' and C l a r k e y wa,s seen r e c e n t l y s l o p i n g about a t Malham taj-ring i t easy on E2' s w i t h a bout o f ''beer elbow''o • So much f o r "our t o p team. Back here i n ''Larjki' f o l l o w i n g a' t r i p t o M a l t a , Dave Wood" smashed down a w a l l w i t h h i s bare f i s t r e s u l c i n . ^ , i n b r o k e n bonos. Dave hopes t o bo f i t f o r h i s n e x t t r i p o.broad w i t h our i l l u s t r i o u s t r e a s u r e r i n - • March. Back t o t h e Rock,, The M a l t a team r e t u r n e d t r i u m ­phant b e f o r e Christi,iaG. Dave Cundry (now known as Chundy • f o l l o w i n g a r e c e j i t bowking e p i s o d e ) and Paul T a y l o r managed a-aow r o u t e a t IIVS. T h i s u n f o r t u n a t e l y l o o k s s e t t o miss t h e nev/ g u i d e . Roger Brookes a l s o r e t u r n e d r e c e n t l y v / i t h a s t a c k o f newies f r o m t h e sai:.]e i s l a n d . Roger has a l s o more r e c e n t l y boon i n v o l v e d i n a c o u p l e o f nev/ r o u t e s i n t h e L l a n b e r i s s l a t e qu-arries r e p e a t i n g ''Long D i s t a n c e .Runner'' E2 3B/C, and s e c o n d i n g on "iiemaMn i n l i g h t ' " ' E3 6A, Both r e q u i r e d b o l t r u n n e r s o.s d i d s e v e r a l o f t h e s h o r t r o u t e s on t h e Rai.n Dog "Wall a t Malham v/hich P a u l Greonperson h e l p e d d e v e l o p t h i s summer, namely Tremelo E 5 / 6 , and A f t e r b u r n EM 6A. R e q u i r i n g none o f t h e s e dodgy t a c t i c s was M a r t i n Dale and Any D u n h i l l ' s nev/ r o u t e on Pavey A r k - c l i r i b e d i n t h o s e e x c e l l e n t t\/o weeks 0 1 weather l a s t October. Book o f Reasons E3 5C. Takes a W a l l and Groov l e f t o f Roundabout D i r e c t above Jacks Rakeo H i c k Van G u l i k ^ s si:immer -working i n Ambleside ];irovQd f a i r l y f r u i t l e s s , e x c e p t f o r c o u p l e o f second a s c e n t s on newly developed Erne Crag, Rydale.

p . 7

A l t o g e t h e r t h e n , n o t a bad y e a r f o r nobs everywhereo T h i s y e a r ' s i c e has been spax^e i n most p a r t s but good i n S c o t l a n d . A l P e e l and i i a r k Jackson w i l l t e s t i f y t o t h a t . A p a r t from g e t t i n g drunk and p a r t y i n g ' t i l 4 aom. i n v a r i o u s p a r t s o f S c o t l a n d , t h e boys have t i c k e d o f f some i m p r e s s i v e r o u t e s . P a r a l l e l B or Lochnagar, and O r i o n Face D i r e c t / A s t r a l Highway on t h e Ben, t o name b u t two. A l s o b e a v e r i n g away up t h e r e has been Dave vJhitmore, P h i l Caley and one Joseph Bone. A b i t o f i c e e a r l i e r i n January i n the Lakes enabled M a r t i n Dale t o makehMs i c e comeback a f t e r some 8 y e a r s and a l s o J e r r y Fvans, h i s debut i \ ' i t h Simon Fenna i n t h e l e a d on an i n c o m p l e t e Dove Crag G u l l y , Gra.smC':r. Hot on t h e i r t a i l s a f t e r d o i n g t h e Force were Mick T o l l e y , L^ev Stephens and Steve H a l t o n . I c e i n Wales has been p r e t t y poor„Iievertheless Roger Brookes managed t o d r a g h i s b o l t k i t up Pyramid G u l l y on t h e B l a c k Ladders. E a r l y though i t i s , t h e r o c k has a.lready been h o t . Back a t t h e b e g i n n i n g o f Fe b r u a r y f o u r keen l a d s h i t C r o o k r i s e on a b r i l l i a n t s p r i n g l i k e day. Many r o u t e s v/ere done, n o t a b l y Sole and Mothers L i t t l e H e l p e r by Glenn Brookes and Andy B l a y l o c k ; H o v i s D i r e c t by M a r t i n Dale; Crease D i r e c t , B l a y l o c k and Dale and R u f f i a n by a l l . A b i g team went t o ilalham f o r t h e day r e c e n t l y and m.any r o u t e s were done, n o t a b l y Sundance W a l l by Mari: H a r d i n g * The same weekend i n t h e Lakes Simon Fenna l e d i'-ransic D i r e c t w i t h J e r r y Evans v / h i l s t M a r t i n Dale l e d a s t r u g g l i n g C o l i n Downer up Gra^sp. The f o l l o w i n g day Dale and Fenna d i s p e n s e d w i t h t h e n a s t y L i t t l e B a t t e r i n g Ram, t h e t o p p i t c h p r o v i n g a b i t o f a pump. Nevrs i s j u s t i n t h a t down i n v/ales. B o l t e r Brookes has knocked o f f a new r o u t e i n t h e L l a n b e r i s S l a t e Q u a r r i e s , The Great Curve i s i n between t h e o t h e r two p r e v i o u s l y m e n t i o n e d r o u t e s and i s E2 .5 = W e l l done Roger! T h a t ' s about i t k i d s l

A nevj b i t o f prom t o c l i ^ i b on has been d i s c o v e r e d by Guy W i l s o n , t h a t f l y i n g h a i r d r e s s e r , Mick Van G u l i k and m i g h t y Mark Hardingo I t i s now f u l l y l a d e n v / i t h arm v/renching"Harding h i t s ' ^ . Too much l a y i n g o f f t h e "L'^ p i n c h i n g t h e ' ' I * ' , s j l a p p i n g f o r t h e "F" and dy n o ' i n g o f f t h e ''T'' have l e f t poor f l a r k n u r s i n g a s h o u l d e r i n j u r y . I hope I haven * t g i v e n t o o much away t h e r e 1 By t h e way, Guy charges .B3- f o r -wen and •BA'-. f o r women» • For h a i r c u t s t h a t i s =

Bye f o r now, The B i g Nose.

St o p P r e s s i C h r i s T h i s t l e t h w a i t e has j u s t l a n d e d a j o b back i n t h i s c o u n t r y , so n'"- doubt he v / i l l soon be burning; up t h e , g r i t around Colne 1 Good t o have you back, Chris..

IT'S COriPETITION TI^xE!! THE GREAT SHEFFIELD nJi,iJi^ MYSTERY

One t y p i c a l week-end a group o f 5 nobs foun d theraselves i n S h e f f i e l d v^here t h e y v;ent t o a p a r t y on t h e F r i d a y n i g h t s I n a subsequent d i s c u s s i o n i n ''The Rule" i t was r e v e a l e d t h a t each o f t h e nobs was i n v o l v e d i n a s i g n i f i c a n t i n c i d e n t on t h e F r i d a y n i g h t ojid each d i d a d i f f e r e n t t h i n g on t h e S a t u r d a y . S n i p p e t s o f t h i s r o c o i m t o f a s o j o u r n t o t h a t v/ell-known spa v/ere o v e r h e r x d b y a c e r t a i n p e r s o n . T h i s person ( f o r v/ant o f a b e t t e r name t h a t i s v/hat we s h a l l c a l l him) made n o t e s w i t h a view t o g e t t i n g our h a p l e s s heroes banned from t h e clubo B n f o r t u n a t e l y f o r him he v/as t o o t h i c k t o work i t a l l o u t . Here a r e h i s n o t e s : -

/ . . = . 3

p.8

1 . Andy spent a l l e v e n i n g a t t h e p a r t y c h a t t i n g up a g i r l . 2. A l a n s l e p t t i l l 2.00 n.r.io on t h e S a t u r d a y but he v/as n o t t h e

nob who t h r e w up over t h o s t e r e o t h e p r e v i o u s n i g h t . 3c The wearer o f t h e BTnREEs r e a l i s e d on t h e F r i d a y n i g h t t h a t

he had- f o r g o t t h e sandv/ichos t h a t h i s mother had made him f o r t h e weekend.

ko The nob v/ho d i d o. r u n n e r fr o i a t h e c u r r y house v/ent c l i m b i n g on t h e S a t u r d a y . Th.is v/as n o t Glenn.

3o The nob v/ho wore t h o B i r o s v/ent w a l k i n g on t h e second day.. T h i s was n o t Glenn e i t h e r - , .

6 o The nob v/ho c r a s h e d t h e c a r on F r i d a y n i g h t d i d n o t v/ear ilanv/ags. On S a t u r d a y someone o v e r s l e p t , someone wont c l i m b i n g and someone e l s e g o t l o s t v / a l i i i n g back frc-m t h e house o f one o f tho g i r l s a t t h e p a r t y . r ' l a r t i n d i d none

' o f these« 7 o Only i " i a r t i n and ^lark wore y e l l o w l e g w e a r . 8 a Someone v/ent sh:ipping on t h e S a t u r d a y .

The f o l l o w i n g i s an e x t r a c t f r o m t h e • t r a n s c r i p t o f a t a p e r e c o r d i n g made by t h o " n o l o " back a t t h e h u t i n L i t t l e . Langdale= ( v o i c e 1 ) ''The b e s t t h i n g I ' v e found f o r c l i m b i n g i n '

i.s mg' y e l l o v / Ron H i l l t r o . c k s u i t bottoms and a p a i r o f Cr.a; ratss"

( v o i c e 2) ''You c a n ' t b e a t .Hanv/a gs Oind a p 3 . i r g f LIFA. Ion:;Johns nob''-'

( v o i c e 3) "Yer^h but t h e r e ks .no pose v a l u e . Get y o u r s e l f some b a l l e t t i g h t s nob'' • - •

( v o i c e 2) " L i k e y o u r s y">u mean y e l l o w w i t h p u r p l e p o l k a dotSc. P i t y about t h e cheapo BTHRKSS t h a t you wear w i t h ' ovx'

( v o i c e 4 ) ''Well I wear F i r e s w i t h mine*' . ( v o i c e 2) "Yeah b u t yi'Ur t i g . h t s are f l u o r e s c e n t b l u e

v / i t h oro.nge Christm.as Trees and p u r p l e snov.'men = I moan I'm embarrassed t o be on t h e same c r a g "

( v o i c e 4) " W e l l what about him" (.voice 3 ) "--Jhat do you mean, w]i.at about •.:e; R o c k s t a r s

are ^ g r e a t b o o t s " ( v o i c e 4) "tee?, b u t y o u r o r o t c h l e s s t i g h t s and boxer

s h o r t s are obscene"

( v o i c e 5 ) " W e l l t h e y keep :.!e c o o l i n summer"

So who d i d what, when and what d i d t h e y wear?

HINT The ansv/er t;) t h i s p roblem may be f o u n d l o g i c a l l y and I recommend " s e t t h e o r y " as a t i s e f u l a b s t r a c t i o n o f t h e problemo

Any resemblance o f those h e r e i n • s l a n d e r e d t o nobs a l i v e o r dead i s o f course t o t a l l y i n t e n t i o n a l . The w i n n e r v / i l l r e c e i v e a copy o f t h e nev/ Club produced ' l a l t a g u i d e . Three r u n n e r s - u p w i l l each r e c e i v e a s i g n e d copy o f "A Solo on L l i v / e d d " by t h e same a u t h o r =

Complete t h e followin;-.: sentence i n n o t more t h a n t w e l v e words and send y o u r e n t r y t o t h e E d i t o r : "

I w ould l i l ; : e t o l i v e i n S u r r e y because .........

C l o s i n g Date f o r t h i s aii^o.aing c o m i p e t i t i o n i s 1st J u l y o The b e s t c o m p l e t e d s e n t e n c e s m ay w e l l be p u b l i s h e d i n a f u t u r e n e ' w s l e t t e r so l o n g as t h e y are n o t t o o obscene-1

THE DOLOr-ilTWS AND V E N I C E , A U G / S E P T . I9S6. For anyone w i t h a spare f o r t n i g h t , t h e f o l l o w i n g h o l i d a y n o t e s may be o f i n t e r e s t : -S a t u r d a y : F l y t^:- V e n i c e , bus t o P i a z z e l l a Somao r l a g i c a l f i r s t i i L i p r e s s i o n s o f c a n a l s i n the m o o n l i g h t . Sunday: I n t e n d t o do soine-of Alt.a V i a 2 - S e l l a , r-iarma-lo.da and P a le d i San I ' l a r t i n o . Leave t o u r i s t c l o t h e s b e h i n d i n s u i t cases and f i l l up sacks w i t h f o o d such as jam, marmarlade, po.te, s a r d i n e s . T r a i n goes t o Verona, t h e n - -•• n o r t h t h r o ' T r e n t o and e v e n t u a l l y disembark a t B o lzano.-",bout 3 hours, from. Venice - v e r y cheap, about -£6=30= each. Convenient bi.V5 t h r o ' V a l Gardena w i t h e x q u i s i t e s k i r e s o r t s . A f t e r 2 hiours disembark a t Passe Ga-rdena (2137ni), q u i t e a l o t o f nev/ snov/ on t h e g r o u n d and we're d r e s s e d f o r a h e a t v/ave 2 Bus o n l y c o s t s £3 "50. H u r r y i n t o t h e n e a r e s t r i f u g i o s h i v e r i n g and t o our r e l i e f t h e y c-an p u t us up; p a l a t i a l rooms. Monday: Awake t o b r i l l i a n t v i e w s o f S e l l a Group. Set o f f s o u t h and are soon clim.bing an exposed p r o t e c t e d p a t h up V a l SetuG v / i t h a f a i r coverin;;- o f i c e and snov/o. I s i t o . l l g o i n g t o be l i k e t h i s ? A f t e r one hour emerre i n t o sun on S e l l a p l a t e a u and soon a t P i f u g i o Boe (2u73^n) dorm.itory booked, t h e n o f f up P i z Boe (3132m) easy a s c e n t => Fabulous v i e w s o f Pelmo, C i v e t t a a.nd Marraalada. Tuesday: Anv.ther b r i l l i o . n t m o r n i n g . Up a t 7^30, f i r s t e x p e r i ­ments w i t h h o l e i n f l o o r t y p e l o o . ' See a g o l d e n e a g l e beneath us and many v / i l d f l o w e r s and l i e a r t h e marmots s q u e a k i n g . • A thumping s o i ^ d l i k e a clujnsy dog r u n n i n g p a s t - we l o o k and see a marmot no more t h a n 3 f t away s c u r r y i n g down t h e h i l l -s i d e ; i t b r i e f l y s t o p s f o r a l o o k a t us, C h r i s t i n e i n g l e e ­f u l l a u g h t e i " o A r r i v e a t B i f u g i o C a s t i g l i o n i , o l d and c l a s s y . Food and wine good. Old "wa.rden pronounces i i o u n t a i n dangerous, i c e f i e l d under F o r c e l l a de Marmalada needs crampons and axe and v i a f e r r a t a on v/est r i d g e i m p o s s i b l e because o f i c o c V/e d e c i d e t o g i v e i t a m i s s . Wednesday: Huts w o r k i n g o u t about SlOo p e r n i g h t . Ascend 1,000 m t o F ( . ) r c e l l a Pxossa (2300m). I t t a k e s 4 h o u r s , b u t t h e n have b e a u t i f u l p a s t o r a l viev/s t o w a r d s Passo d i San P e l l i g r i n o . Me stag;;,'er i n t o P i f u g i o Muralago (l919-j) " room, i n cella:.r dov/n s p i r a l s t a i r c a s e ; showers, s i t down loo» F i x e d meal v e r y good. Thursday: Down t o Passo d i V a l l e s i n d r i z z l e , r i f u g i o has m a g n i f i c e n t s p a g h e t t i and v/ine. P e l u n c t a n t l y s e t o f f i n t o t h e San i - l a r t i n o group up a s t e e p s l o p e , c l o u d l i f t s t o g i v e good v i e v / 3 o f i i o Mulo.Zo A h i g h r i d g e p a t h and good s l a b

/....10

Po10

s c r a m b l i n g e v e n t u a l l y l e a d t o R i f u g i o Mulaz (2571m) i n a v e r y lonel;> s p o t s u r r o u n d e d by enormous c l i f f S c Only us and 2 o t h e r E n g l i s h i n t h e h u t h a v e been campingo We go t o bed e a r l i e r and e a r l i e r each n i g h t - about 8 o ' c l o c k by t h i s sta.;^e =

i ' r i d a y : I t has been snov/ing b u t we and B r i t s go on t o t h e P e d r o t t i v i a t h e e x h i l e r a t i n g ' S e n t i e r o d e l l a Farangole*o So'-tn G c r a n i b l i n g up snow co v e r e d s c r e e s i n ^he m i s t , t h e Passo B e l l e F a r a n g o l e appears h i g h i n t h e sky (2932m), t h e h i g h e s t pass on t h e r o u t e , b u t we g e t t h e r e and soon t h e rope i s o u t descending, a s t e e p l i t t l e g u l l y w i t h snow and i c e on t h e w i r e o P r e c i p i t o u s s l o p e s w i t h chamoix. p l a y i n g a l o n g way below on t h e g l c a c i e r and a s t e e p slo.b above a w a t e r f a l l r e q u i r e s t h e r^:pe cagain and t h e n t h e R i f u g i o P e d r o t t i (258lm)o T h i s s e c t i o n i s q u i t e an a d v e n t u r e .

The 2 campers depa.rt a.nd we e s c o r t P e t e r and G i l l i a n t o c a b l e c a r , w i s h G i l l i a n t h e b e s t o f l u c k i n h e r i n t e r v i e w and v/ave themi goodbye, ^.^yoelf ojid C h r i s t i n e s u d d e n l y f e e l a l o n e , the h u t atmosphere v/e don't l i k e - t h e y even v/ant our p a s s p o r t s . A most, s p e c t a c u l a r t h u n d e r s t o r m - f e e l s o r r y f o r t h e 2 B r i t s camping. S a t u r d a y : O u t s i d e 6" o f snow and b r i l l i . a n t s unshine = S t y l i s h I t a l i a n s o ^ rrive and s t a n d around t h e p a t h i n d i c a t o r s l i k e sheex^ w a i t i n g t', be l e d - you'd t h i n k t h e y v/ould know t h e i r ov/n ;nountoans b y nov/! Set o f f l i k e on a w i n t e r ' s da.y j u s t f o l l o v / i n g t h e t r a i l i n t h e snov/. Head down a m a g n i f i ­c e n t f l a . t - b o t t o m e d v a l l e y v / i t h c a m p a n i l i on e i t h e r s i d e and a r r i v e a t t h e R i f u g i o P r a d i d a l i (2278m), o f f e r e d accommoda­t i o n up a l a d d e r i n t h e r o o f . . C h r i s t i n e t h i n k s - i t a g r e a t i d e a ! I am awake m o s t o f t h e n i g h t w i t h f r e e z i n g l e g s . But oven i n t h e w o r s t s i t u a t i o n s t h e r e i s humour - 2 Germans are i n t h e soujie boat - ' n i c ' j p l a c e t h i s , a bar^_-,ain and o n l y 1^500!' and t h e y had t h e nerve t o charge t h a t much. Sunday: R e t u r n t o P e d r o t t i t o meet P e t e r v i a Passo d i B a l l ( a B r i t ) (2443;:]), B e t t e r atmosphere t h i s t i m e , even asked where we*d b e e n s i n c e our l a s t v i s i t b u t p l a c e heavin^^ w i t h GermanSc P e t e r a r r i v e s , i t * s g r e a t t o see him a g a i n , and we d r i n k a l l t h e v/ine he has b r o u g h t A l l t h e Germans s t a r t s i n g ­i n g , q u i t e d i s t u r b i n g , hope i t s n o t t h e t h i r t i e s a l l over a g a i n .

Monday: A r r i v e a t t h e P r a d i d a l i , w i t h one r u c k s a c k s e t o f f f o r t h e V i a F e r r a t a d e l V e l o , s t i l l i n ; ; i i s t . The r o c k , v e r t i c a l f o r hundred o f f e e t , i s c o l d and t h e t o p i s i n mist« P e t e r and m.yself v / o r r i e d about C h r i s t i n e (and o u r s e l v e s ! ) , but v / h i l s t we're s t a n d i n g w i t h c o l d f e e t 3 Gorman l a d i e s a r r i v e - one o f them a grandma." They say we s h o u l d have h e l m e t s and g l o v e s w h i c h we h a v e n ' t ^ Bowever we s e t o f f r o p e d t o g e t h e r and make p r o g r e s s , b l u e s!-:y appears^ t r a v e r s e away from the wet c o r n e r t o n i c e d r y r o c k , b u t t h i s i s much h a r ; l e r t h a n a n y t h i n g we've seen b e f o r e , a t t i m e s t h e r u n g s are overhanging= E v e n t u a l l y • a f t e r a l o t ox e x c i t e m e n t and a l i t t l e a p p r e h e n s i o n descend a s t e e p w a l l ."'.nd disembar;.. i n a f . r o t t y g u l l y l - what a p l a c e t o f i n i s h . Me s t a g g e r up t o t h e c o l and s e t ^ ; f f on 714 w h i c h p r o v e s worse t h a n t h o v i a f e r r a t a . A g r e a t day b u t ],ate backo A n o t h e r n i g h t a t the P r a d i d a l i ! But t h i s t i m e a t l e a s t w e ' r e n o t i n t h o r o o f . ,

Tuesday: German s n o r e s a l l n i g h t n o n - s t o p ! Soon s c r a m b l i n g o v e r d i f f i c u l t r o c k s and a r r i v e a t t h e c o l i n a s t a t O ' .;.f exhauGti...^n, descend r a p i d l y t o the v a l l e y , and ascend t h r o u g h woods on a b e a u t i f u l z i g - z a g p a t h t o t h e R i f u g i o T r e v i s o (l631m) a charming v/'jod b u i l t p l a c e , v/ashing i s a t a p a t t h e back„

p„11

A r i c h Swiss l a d y has b r o u g h t h er own g u i d e t o c l i m b v/ith« C h r i s t i n e f i n o . l l y g e t s h er w i s h - po.lenta and f u n g h i ( t i n n e d mushrooms) - won't be h a v i n g i t a g a i n .

V/ednesday; No fo'od l e i t c Two l i t t l e b u t t e r p o r t i o n s c o s t us L1000I Set o f f on the l a s t l a p t o Passo Ceredac Walk down t o P i e r a d i P r i m i e i " j v i a a l p i n e p a s t u r e s amongst p e o p l e hawing t h e grasSo Tona.dico i s charming o l d tov/n o f narrow c o b b l e d s t r e e t s o.nd P i e r a d i P r i m i e r o p r o v i d e s a v/elcome sandv/ich and .3I0.SS o f v/ino. Catch a. bus t o t a k e us s t r a i j - ^ h t . t o Venice and pass down "a nrarrov; v a l l e y v ; i t h b e o . u t i f u l l i t t l e towns l i k e r-fezsano. We t a k e our b e o t s o f f and t h o s m e l l i s h o r r e n d o u s . Down t o T r e v i s o , a b e a u t i f u l o l d town w i t h c a n a l s and f i n e avenues and e v e n t u a l l y t o mestre and over t h e causev/ay t o V e n i c e . We e n j o y a c-mplote change o f c l o t h e s e and a shower and are f i t t o appear i n c i v i l i s a t i o n againo

P e t e r r i n g s G i l l i a n o She has g o t t h e j o b . Another b o t t l e o f v/ine I Thursday: Venice i s t h o ;,.iost f a s c i n a t i n g p l a c e i n t h e v / o r l d . St oNark's Square and B a s i l i c o , , s t y l i s h shops .and b a r s ; l o t s o f gla.ss and mr.squerades. Catch w a t e r - b u s t o M u r a n o , i s l a n d o f t h e g l a s s f a c t o r i e s . L o v e l y and q u i e t ; a n o t h e r w o r l d from St . i i a r k s . P r i d a y : Get up a t 7°30 b u t c a n ' t g o t on Grand Canal f o r commuters - sa.t on b o a t s rea.ding t h e p a p e r s l i k e on S o u t h e r n P-Ogion. A n o t h e r da.y o f c u l t u r e ; t h i s morning T i t i a n ' s Assum.ptiono Lunch on a d o o r s t o p on w a t e r f r o n t . P e t e r has t o b r e a k i n t o s a r d i n e t i n S o About t o s t a r t e a t i n g when door opens, s t y l i s h l a d y v/alks ovit - f e e l l i k e E n g l i s h v a g r a n t s i i n l a t e a f t e r n o o n v i s i t I s l a n d o f S t . George, t h i s t i m e T i n t o r e t t o ' s . Pjeoarciful e v e n i n g viev/s fi'om, t h e tov/er - b o a t s and s h i p s i n a l l v d i r e c t i o n o - and an e c c e n t r i c p r i e s t t a k e s us up and down i n t h e l i f t and i n t e r r o g a t e s us i n l a t i n . Saturdo.y: Yet a'..io-cher j.i-;rney down Grand Canal=, You c o u l d do i t thousands o f t i i ' i e s . Doge^s P a l a c e . Enormous p a i n t i n g s , even on t h e ceilin,;':,s, B r i d g e o f Si g h s vUnd dungeons t h e y 'put Casenova i n . S t r e e t s so busy •= V i v a l d i -jver t h e loudspeak.ers. V'/ander i n t o a uuio.shienable area., n;irrov/ s t r e e t s , a l m o s t pc^verty b u t s t i l l f a s c i n a t i n g o P e l u c t a n t l y back co t h o h o t e l and e v e n t u a l l y a i r b o r n e f o r l^anchester. T o t a l c o s t each o f a memorable h o l i d a y : " f l i g h t £160

h o t e l C 8 0 sp e n d i n g mioney ( i n c l u d i n g l a r g e

amounts o f w i n e ) S200 C h r i s t i n e I k i n , B a r r i o Crook, G i l l i a n & P e t e r L l e w e l l y n .

W i t h sympo.thy t o Geroge Paro:er v/ho v/ould have been g r e a t C'.,)mpany on t h e way b u t v/ho had t o c a n c e l because o f i n j u r y . B e t t e r l u c k n e x t t i m e , George=

B a r r i o Crook

MISSILES FKOn oaijym A p l e a s a n t Snneay a f t e r n o o n , b e a n t i f u l Borrowdale s c e n e r y , "a c l a s s i c r o u t e , good company, t h e o c c a s i o n a l v/ui-/hoopl ^ep, t h i s i s what I ' v e v/orked a l l w^eek f o r - i t a l l seems w o r t h i t nov/c The s e t t i n g i s Gowder c r a g , J e r r y Evans and m y s e l f had d e c i d e d t o do F o o l ' s P a r a d i s e p Dave magnum Wood and Dave Gundy had embarked on kaleidoscope„ on t h e second p i t c h , I c r o s s e d Dave's ropes and met t h e g e n t l e aroma o f h i s f e e t , p o l i t e l y p e r c l i e d o. metre o r so above my head. './e d i s c u s s e d a f f a i r s o f a r o u t e f i n d i n g n a t u r e ^ as young men do i n such c i r c u m ­s t a n c e s , and pr. acceded on our s e p a r a t e ways o

C o m f o r t a b l y i n s t a l l e d on my b e l a y , a l t h o u g h t h e r e was an absence o f an a.shtray o r a F i a r t e y ' s p u l l pump, my frame o f m i n i ivas s t i l l much h i g h e r t h a n normal a.s J e r r y s e t o f f on t h e second p i t c h o By t h i s t i m e Dave's f e e t v/ere t h e o n l y v i s i b l e s i g n s t h a t t h e r e w-as anybody f a s t e n e d t o t h e t o p o f h i s rope as he moved l o f t v / a r d s to, ascend t h e groove t o t h e b l o c k b e l a y above.

A few m i n u t e s l a t e r when o n l y o c c a s i o n a l g l i m p s e s o f t h e f e e t v/ore t o be seen, t h e dreaded deep n o i s e o f something o r Sf:)m.e-body detachin.g' i t s e l f f rom t h e c r a g was heardo I i m m e d i a t e l y l o o k e d i n t h e d i r e c t i o n o f t h e f e e t and saw tv/o b l o c k s o f c o n s i d e r a b l e s i s e (one about 4 - 5 f t l o n g ) h u r t l i n g tov/ards Dave Gundyo The b l o c k s g l a n c e d t h e b u t t r e s s and g l i d e d above h i s head v / i t h a fev/ i n c h e s o f s c a l p space t o s p a r e . Dave's ^*below" shout had a l r e a d y been made a t t h i s sta,ge and Dave Cundy's head v/as w e l l and t r u l y t u c k e d under h i s arms, one o f w h i c h t o o k t h e b r u n t o f t h e s m a l l e r detachments w h i c h came dov/n«

My h e a r t s t o p p e d d u r i n / y i i i e p e r i o d between t h e b o u l d e r s h i t t i n g t h e deck and Dave's head emerging from beneath h i s armso I had began t o g e t an '•OhScco.t No I " f e e l i n g . Anyway b o t h Davos v/ere f i n e and dandy and a f t e r t h e r o u t e was done v/ere l e f t w i t h a u n ique j i g s a w p u z z l e .

My. c o n g r a t u l a t i o n s r-o out t o Dave Gundy f o r b l o w i n g a r a s p b e r r y a t d e a t h and sympathies t o oagn<in f o r such bad f o r t u n e , he d e s c r i b e d i n t h e Pule (where e l s e ? ) t h a t a w f u l f e e l i n g o f sheer f r i g h t and h e l p l e s s n e s s as t h e b l o c k came away.

'..fter a good l a y - o f f from r o c k c l i m b i n g , I have n o t i c e d a marked i n c r e a s e i n g e n e r a l s a f e t y s t a n d a r d s on r o c k h e l p e d by improved equipment and maybe h e a l t h i e r a t t i t u d e s but t h i s i n c i d e n t reminds us tiv.vt t h e h i l l a a r e s t i l l a p o t e n t i a l l y dan ;,erou3-place t o be no i n a t t o r how s a f e t y c o n s c i o u s we a r e .

Steve H a l t o n

T ^ r a SQUEAa, I'HUD jg j j J j B i i .

The sounds o f slo.i.iming do..,:rE and b i g b o o t s broke t h e t r a u i -q u i l n e s s o f t h e e a r l y m o r n i n g a i r . I t was 3^00 am and t h e y v/ere a r r i v i n g a l r o a d y o P o k i n g my head out o f t h e b i v i be.g i n t o the f r e u z i n g i n o o n l i t u i o r n i n g , I t h o u g h t - a n o t h e r h a l f an h o u r .

I t was 7.00 am v/hen Dave boo t e d my f r o s t covered p i t - coming from t h e v/a.r.".]th o f Crushers ca.r. V/hat a b r i l l i a n t day -a q u i c k b-'eadmr'ast and t h e d o n n i n g o f g e a r sav/ us on our v/0:.y, o v e r t h e g o l i c o u r s e tov/ards t h e Ben.

p. 1 3

On a r r i v a l a t t h e C,1.C„ h u t , t h e masses o f door slam/ming e a r l y b i r d s v/ere e v i d e n t . The C u r t a i n c o n t a i n e d p a r t i e s as d i d a l l t h e o t h e r c l a s s i c r o u t e s . H a d r i a n ' s v / a l l was a s t a i r c a s e o f huijans - S a t u r d a y on Ben N e v i s 1 N e a r l y e v e r y t h i n g seemed t o be i n e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n , so a f t e r minimoM t h o u g h t and v/eighing up t h e p r o s and cons a h a l f h o u r w a lk and we v/ore g e a r i n g up a t t h e base o f O r i o n B i r e c t . S e v e r a l teams i n f r o n t but v / e l l ahead so Hark meandered up t h e f i r s t hacked up p i t c h . A nother tv/o superb p i t c h e s sav/ us a t the- base o f t h e snov/bowl about 1 t h i r d h e i g h t . A g u i c k chat and two more p i t c h e s o n p e r f e t neve a c r o s s t h e snov/bov/l and up t o t h e base o f t h e r i b where t h e r e was a c o l l e c t i o n o f p e o p l e . What a 3 t a n k i n g d ay!i

There p r o g r e s s secm.ed t o be a g o n i s i n g l y s l o w . I t was 2 . 4 ^ . We v/ere f a c e d w i t h a t l e a s t an h o u r ' s w a i t here p l u s more v / a i t i n g on t h e p i t c h e s above, and o n l y h a l f w a y up t h e f a c e . A t r a v e r s e a c r o s s t h e t o p o f t h e snowbowl and a c o u p l e o f p i t c h e s o f r e l a t i v e l y easy c l i m b i n g would t a k e us onto N o r t h Bast B u t t r e s s . A t e m p t i n g . a l t e r n a t i v e t o h a v i n g a r o u n d on such a p e r f e c t da.y. 'While c o n s u l t i n g v/e n o t i c e d a team, h i g h up t o our l e f t on an i c e d ramp. •'Jesus! t h a t l o o k s b r i l l i a a n t n:.'b'% we b o t h sa.id as i-lark weis g e t t i n g t h o g u i d e outo . "How h a r d i s i t ? " , I f o l l o w e d " A s t r o Highway - grade V i " . i4ark r e p l i e d "WowJ" "Oh w e l l , I ' l l s e t o f f t r a v e r s i n g t o N = B . B u t t r e s s " "Yeh, Ok" r e p l i e d H a r k as I a c t o f f - Thud' Squeak, Thud Squealco A f o o l i n g o f f a i l u r e v/as i n t h e b.ack o f m.y mind when, "Tho.t's t h o on4 o f t h e rope nob", echoed o x r o s s t h e f a c e . I had J u s t reached t h e b o t t o m o f A s t r o Highway's i n i t i a l p i t c h and i t - ' f f e r e d -a s t o r m i n g b e l a y - tv/o bomber n u t s and a peg t h a t r a n g i t s way ±nll (A s i g n maybe!) As n a r k a r r i v e d and we were b o t h g l a c i n g up t h e exposed l i n e above, mark commented, ''looks good d u n i t ? " and v / h i l e he v/a.s saying"-Do you f a n c y a l o o k a t i t ? " , I was t r a n s f e r r i n g him t o t h e b e l a y and sortin,;': out t h e r a c k . " I ' l l j u s t go up t o t h a t h a r d - l o o k i n g b i t about 4 0 f t up and have a l o o k - I ' l l pr-.jb-ably be down i n a few m i n u t e s ! " Ten m i n u t e s l a t e r I was cramming axes i n t o a wide c r a c k g a i n i n g t h o s e e x t r a fev/ f e e t t o g e t decent p l a c e m e n t s over t h e top_ o f t h i . 8 overha?iging v / a l l . Thud, t h u d , tv;o bombers a.G i l e n t o u t , r i g h t f o o t t r y i n g t o g a i n v/hat l i t t l e purchase t h e r e v/as on t h e v e r g l a s s e d o v e r h a n g i n g v / a l l . A h i g h s t e p and o v e r t h e t o p I v/ento " J e s u s l that" were ' a r d nob! \ / e l l t h a t ' s i t now, v/e ' r e comimittod" I s h o u t e d .

Thud Squeaa, Thud Squeal:, up t h e s t e e p neve p a s s i n g s e v e r a l b u l g e s t o t h e base o f a h o r r e n d o u s l y na.rrow V g r o o v e . I n wont a screv/ and . - f f up t h e groove I v/ent axes and crampons j u s t b i t i n g , each move a t o t a l c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f n e r v e s and b a l a n c e . A n o t h e r 5 0 f t o f grade I V c l i i i B o i n g b r o u g h t me t o an i c e b o l l o . r d and t h e b e l a y . A b a r r a g e o f whoops v/oke i i a r k from v/hatever he was d o i n g and signaDB.ed my a r r i v a l a t t h e b e l a y .

He was soon o n h i s way t h e g r u n t s s i g h s and whoops d r i f t i n g up t h r o u g h t h e s t i l l a i r . On h i s a r r i v a l h i s fa^ce sa.id i t . a l l - "V/hat a b r i l l i a n t .. c... p i t c h nob!"

i i +

A f t e r r e g a i n i n g h i s composure and g e a r i n g up, o f f he went up t h e n e x t p i t c h ; an i m p r e s s i v e i c e d ramp l e a d i n g t o a s t e e p g r o o v e . A good n u t . Thud oq»uea?<:, Thud Squeak, a s he d i s a p p e a r e d i n t o t h e g a t h e r i n g d u s k o

L o o k i n g o u t f r o m t h e imioenseness o f t h e f a c e , snow capped peaks as f a r as y r a i c o u l d see were t u r n i n g a r e d d i s h p i n k a g a i n s t t h e copper b l u e s k y . A rescue h e l i c o p t e r broko t h e s i l e n c e as i t buzzed t h e f a c e , t h e winchman o f f e r i n g a wo^ve.

"V/hen y o i i r e r e a d y n-.-do"', b r o u g h t me back t o t h e involvem^ent o f s t r i p p i n g t h e b e l a y and h a p p i l y s a y i n g goodbye t o t h e i c e b o l l a r d . I was s n o n Thud SQuecQs:ing up t h e ro,mp and gro')ve above t o Mark's bela;y'-Po.rkness v/a.s n o t f a i ' av/.ay nov; aaid wo v/ere s t i l l bel^^w t h e t o p p i t c h e s o f N i j r t h East B u t t r e s s so o f f I s e t . Thud Squeal-:., Thud Squeals, Thud. Thud up a i o e r f e c t p i t c h o f I I I / I V p l a c i n g two i c e screws i n i c e v d i i c h j u s t beckoned f o r them. I r a n out o f rope belov/ t h e s t e e p 4 0 i t c o r n e r o n NoP.Buttress j u s t belov; t h e r i d g e . I n went t h o b e l a y , on went t h e h e a d t o r c h , whoop whoop and Hark was o n h i s way.

The t r a n s i t i o n fro.a day t o n i g h t d i d n ' t r e a l l y happL.a as t h e moon j u s t l i t e v e r y t h i n g up as i t g l i s t e n e d i n t h e s u r r o u n d i n g snow.

As i i a r k l e d up t h e c o r n e r a team o f 3 a r r i v e d , h a v i n g c l i m b e d MoE.ButtresSo The 3 v/ore i n ftaot T r e v o r Jones and f r i e n d s v/ho v/ere commienting on t h e i r b e s t d.ay on t h e Ben e v e r .

A whoop and Mark was on b e l a y . O f f I went up t h e c o r n e r , a r e a l s t i n g i n t h e t a i l , t r a i l i n g o ur good deed f o r t h e day. Q u i c k l y b r i n g i n g up one o f t h e t h r e e and t h e n an o f f e r o f a p i n t each l a t e r , sav; i i s on o u r v/o.y up t h e l a s t 2 0 0 f t o f m o o n l i t snow ti.i t h e t o p . The t i m e was 7 o 3 0 pm. and w h i l e v i e w i n g m o o n l i t ponies as f a r as t h e eye c o u l d see, we t a l k e d about t h e p e r f e c t end t o a p e r f e c t day B e e r U I

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A p r i l 1983 my r e t u r n t o M a l t a , t h i s t i m e \ / i t h t h e e x p r e s s i n t e n t i o n o f prc'ducing enough ne\ c l i h i b s t o f i l l a s'u.pplement g u i d e v/hich I v/as p l a n n i n g t'O v / r i t e v / i t h l o c a l c l i m b e r , Sim.cn Aldeuo U n f o r t u n a t e l y , Simon had broken h i s arm f a l l i n g o f f t h e s i d e o f t h o U n i v e r s i t y L i b r a r y b u i l d i n g and s c o v i l d . n o t c l i m b ! However, he v/as a b l e t;> show me round t h e c r a g s a n d h o l d my ropes on a few occasionso l i e a l s o i n t r o d u c e d me t o Moel T o l e d o , r o u n d r i a l t a w i n d s u r f i n g r e c o r d h o l d e r , who was j u s t s t a r t i n g c l i m b i n g o T o g e t h e r we v;ore a.ble t o c l i m b r o u t e s up t o IIVS, t h o u g h he f a i l e d t o f o l l o w me up Short C i r c u i t (B1 3b) a s t i f f l i t t l e p r o b l e o i r o u t e on t h e L e a n i n g Block b o u l d e r a t Mied BabUo A p a r t from b e i n g a.ble t o exx:)lore s e v e r a l p r e v i o u s l y u n v i s i t e d c l i f f s on b o t h M a l t a a n d Gczo I v/as n o t a b l e t o d-:- v e r y much c l i m b i n g u n t i l r e i n f o r c e m e n t s from England a r r i v r o d i n t h e f o r m o f one A. Lewandov/ski p l u s S t u a r t Gascoyne and Yvonne, h i s w i f e . Me a l l crammed i n t o a s m a l l room a t S l i e m a Scouts HoQ. v/ l i i c h was my el"Cheap'.; accommodootion ±-or t h i s v i s i t a r r a n g e d thrcoagk Bim.on who was a "Venture s c o u t = S t i l l i t v/as home f o r a w h i l e , a n d e n a b l e d us t o have an i n e x p e n s i v e h o l i d a y . The f i r s t now c l i m o s we d i d w e r e a t \/iod Babu a g a i n , where I added The M a l t e s e P a l c o n (E2 3c) w h i c h c l e a v e s a d i r e c t l i n e up t h e f r o n t f a c e t o f t h o Bi^imond B u t t r e s s on t h e o a s t G i d c =

StLiarc d o c l i n e c l t o c l i m b t h o r o u t e 1 hod p r e p a r e d f o r him GO we l e f t t o c a t c h t h e bu3 bach t o V a l l e t t a . Next day we g o t a h i r e d c a r and drove o v e r t o Qhar L a p s i where we added a f e w e l i m i n a t e s t o t h i s v / e l l d e v e l o p e d esc.arphicnt o The b e s t o f these b e i n g Andy's P o c k p i c h o t (E1 5b) and S t u a r t ' s A Scoopy-Po (INS 5a) t h o f o r m e r t a k i a g a d i r e c t l i n e up t h e Twin Caves P i l l a r and t h e l a t t e r a s t e e p scoop i n t h e w a l l o f t h e l e f t -hand o f t h e two caveso

likToSlabs t h e n comio under s c r u t i n y w i t h Andy p r o d u c i n g a lo^ose l o o k i n g Very Severe Imagine (4c) w h i c h presumably i s an a . l l u s i o n t o h i s t h o u g h t s v / h i l s t s o l o i n g 100ft above a b o u l d e r strev/n s l o p e . I t h e n riade a roped ascent o f T r i g g e r Ilapp^'" (E2 5c) a v f o l l p r o t e c t e d , i f s h o r t , s l a b r o u t e l o f t o f The Punic VJindo An even s h o r t e r r o u t e , Tig.ht .Peat (P2 6a) v/as t h e n climibed a f t e r t h e a u t h o r h a d t^"^ r e t r e a t from t h e t i n y h o l d s on t h e c r u x i n o r d e r t o t i g h t e n h i s b o o t s , hence t h e naioe. Tho n e x t tv/o days were spent d e v e l o p i n g two- now croigs on the c o a s t l i n e near Pomm i r - P i h Say i n t h e n o r t h - w e s t o f M a l t a . Here, I g o t g r i p p e d on what i s probo.bly t h e m.ost s e r i o u s j ) i t c h on M a l t a : M o y a a n i s q u a t s i (E3 6 a ) . T h i s f i n d s a d e v i o u s and t e c h n i c a l r o u t e up a smooth s t e e p v/a.ll d i r e c t l y above t h e sea. v / i t h p r o t e c t ! -n o f a h i g h l y d u b i o u s n a t u r e . I t h i n k i t v/as Joe Srown who i s supxDosed t o have so.id t h a t p r o t e c t i o n i s o n l y ovs good as t h e r o c k i n v/hich i t i s i n , a remark h i g h l y r e l e v a n t t.o t h i s climb,J and v / h i c h weighed h e a v i l y on my mind as I attemioted t h e c r u x s e c t i o n . A f t e r t h i s I had t h e n e x t day o f f w h i l e Andy and S t u a r t f a i l e d jn t h e b i g groove l i n e l e f t o f i.oyaani-s q u a t s i due t o t h e presence o f a huge l o o s e b l o c k .

S i n c e t h e r e a r e some bi,;, r o o f s ibove t h i s r o u t e , i t c o u l d n o t be t r u n d l e d e i t h e r , p r o m p t i n g Stuo^rt i n t o making the remark t h a t " T h i s r o u t e r e q u i r e s a team o f more i m a g i n a t i v e a b s e i l e r s o r l e s s i m a g i n a t i v e c l i m b e r s ! " A f t e r t h i s ' d e b a c l e ' S t u a r t and Andy had to c o n t e n t themselves w i t h a few good r o u t e s up t h e p r e v i o u s l y u n c l i m b o d , and unnamed 'Stucco M a l l s ' . T h i s i s a h i g h l y u n u s u a l 7 0 f t v / a l l c o v e r e d i n h i d d e n h o l d s b u t d r o p p i n g s t r a i g h t i n t o t h e sea n e c e s s i t a t i n g a b s e i l descents« The b e s t r o u t e here i s S e i r o c c o (VS 4b) w h i c h t a k e s an u n b e l i e v a b l e o v e r h a n g i n g oa-ote -xa huge h_olcLs. No t r i p t o Madkta would bo c->mplete w i t h o u t a v i s i t t o Gozo and t h i s vjas no e x c e p t i o n o A g a i n , we s t o p p e d a t t h e i n l a n d Sea b u t t h i s t i m e v/e caioped. A l s o here v/as a f i l r i crew v/ho were moJking a F r e n c h / I t a l i r n i v/ar p i c t u r e , though v/e d i d n o t see any f i l m n n g v / h i l e we weru there.' Our main o b j e c t i v e was t h e g r e a t 500ft a r e t o o f \ i a r d i j a P o i n t v/hioh r a s e s o u t o f t h e M e d i t e r r a n e a n l i k e t h e prow o f some huge s h i p . U n f o r t u n a t e l y , due t o a l o o s e band o f r o c k v/e c o u l d n o t get down t o sea l e v e l and had t o s t a r t o^ur r o u t e from some l o d g e s 2/5rds o f t h o way down. I n t h e event t h o r o u t e p r o v e d p o o r e r t h a n e x p e c t e d due t o l o o s i s h r o c k b u t the p o s i t i o n s somewhat c o i i p e n s a t e d f o r t h i s . A nother r o u t e we d i d here was -Ory Sone Sand (Ml 5b)? up t h e l i n e o f t h e a b s e i l r o u t e . T h i s p r o v e d t o bo h i g h l y e n j o y a b l e , e s p e c i a l l y t h e f i r s t p i t c h w h i c h '-/as j u s t l i k e a LoMe D i s t r i c t r o u t e .

Me t h e n s h i f t e d our a t t e n t i o n t o t h e I n l a n d V a l l e y r u n n i n g n o r t h f r o m t h e Mgarr i x - X i n i sea i n l e t on Gozo's s o u t h c o a s t . The c l i f f s here are mentioned i n t h o o l d P o y a l Navy g u i d e b u t had n o t had any r o u t e s r e c o r d e d o n tii o ; n . Andy and S t u a r t soon s t a r t e d p u t t i n g t h i s r i p ; h t by s o l o i n g a nuinber o f e a s i e r c l i m b s e n t h e i n t r o d u c t o r y c l i f f s h i g h n t h e v a l l e y ' s o a s t s i d e ( l a t e r t • bee .me A n t i p a s t i M a l l s ) . The f 11 w i n g day Andy c o i t i n u e d h i s s.-l.^ ..onslaught ,n t h e s e w o i l l s v / h i l s t S t u a r t and I c l e a n e d tv/o l i n e s on t h o p i c k e t e d w h i t e w a l l s p p o s i t e . These became

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F u t i l e Gesture (E2 5c) a n d T-o Late f o r Yvonne (F1 5b) a n d are r e n i n i s c e n t ^ . f F r e n c h l i n o s t o n e r o u t e s , o n l y v / i t h o u t t h e b o l t S c A f t e r r e t u r n i n j t " - i i a l t a v/e added a fev/ f i l l e r s i n t - 100 Yards S l a b , and Wied Labu's v/est s i d e where I g t revenge >n t h e ov e r h a n g i n g c r a c k t h a t had d e f e a t e d me b e f r e t . pr.duce Cat B u r g l a r (B2 5 c ) . F i n a l l y , I r e p e a t e d t h e r u t o up t h e Blue G r o t t : v / a l l v/hich P h i l B a c k i n g had c l i m b e d a t Nov/ Year. A f t e r a b s e i l i n g down t ; sea l e v e l I was s u r p r i s e d t f i n d an • o l d i n - s i t u b e l a y peg. A t t a c h e d t : t h i s peg was a r - . l l o d up p i e c e a p l a s t i c w h i c h c a t a i n e d a n ^ t e g i v i n g d e t a i l s -a t h e r-,^ute, a name' ' H e l l . B-ys' (E3 5b) and t h e names . f tho f i r s t ascendees k e v i n Glass an;' Bo.vid Cr.Mero T h i s was q u i t e a s u r p r i s e and mad.e i.io fee3. b e t t e r ab.:^ut 1 s i n g t h e ' f i r s t o.scent' The r u t e t u r n e d ..ut t . ; be superb, -no -.f t h e v e r y b e s t .n r ^ l t a b u t a t a s l i g h t l y e a s i e r grade t h a n f i r s t c l a i m e d - .B2 5h/c^

Tho r e i o a i n d e r . . f t h a t day a i i d t h e wh. l o f t h e nex t day we s p e n t s u n b a t h i n g , swi^iming, e a t i n g , d r i n l v i n g and g e n e r a l l y o n j .:ying o u r s e l v e s bof. r e we hoxl t o r e t u r n t t h e c ; l d and r . i i n - _ . f t h e w r s t B r i t i s h suiiimer I c a n remember. At l e a s t t h ;ugh i t gave me t h e . p p : r t u n i t y t j d . p l e n t y work on t h e new r o u t e s supplement w h i c h n..:w had e n ugh new c l i m b s t . : keep me busy f';r q u i t e a w h i l o . L e t t e r s p u b l i s h e d i n 'High' and * l i - . u n t a i n ' rovea.led f u r t h e r r o u t e s d no by v a r i o u s po.gole .ver t h e y c i r s , i n c l u d i n g twa : i i..jre r . a i t o s by -'.'evin Glass v/hich h i s p a r t n e r , B a v i d Cr>d:or, t o l d i.:e o.b^.ut s i n c e k o v i n had been k i l l e d i n a c l i r ^ i b i n g a c c i d e n t a t H . g i i t o n Quarry, L a n c a s h i r e i n 1 9 S 4 o T.ho r .:utos i/ore named ;.ev-s P-ute (B1 5b) and The Glass W a l l (B2 5b) i n h i s moiaory.

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LiALloi m.} GBIxi^S by Poger Brookes and Sioion A l d e n .

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