Further Techniques

Aby Jones

Multiple ExposuresDefinition: Multiple exposure photography is the superimposition (an object being placed over something, in this case a photograph over a photograph) of two or more, depending on what type of end product you desire, exposures which creates one single image – double exposure is just two images merged together to create one, this image is a double exposure image.

Methods:Analogue: Basically, the camera shutter is opened more than once, exposing the film multiple times – this results in the second image superimposing the first image – it creates images that have a ghost like quality to them.Automatic Winding Cameras: As soon as the picture is taken, the film is usually wound to the next frame – advances automatic winding cameras have an option for multiple exposures and manual winding cameras have a multiple exposure feature, after the first exposure it can then be set to double.Digital: Digital photography now, enables images to be merged together/superimposed by using editing software such as: Adobe Photoshop or GIMP. Using this means the opacity of an image can be altered and can then be overlaid over another – SLR cameras also allow multiple exposures.

Multiple ExposuresEquipment: Digital: A tripod (if necessary), a DSLR camera, a camera lens for example: Canon 35mm f/1.4L or Canon 50mm f/1.2L, adobe lightroom (will help), Adobe Photoshop etc.

Historical, contemporary, traditional: SLR camera, tripod, SLR Camera film, possible white back drop.

Subjects: Depending on the desired end result, a model or a few models may be involved, certain objects such as: tree’s, flowers, any landscape and animals could be used to create photographs – even just the human body, artists such as Christoffer Relander used this to his advantage.

Post Production: Sometimes, instead of using a DSLR camera or a film camera to create the final image, photographs can be edited on Photoshop or GIMP – this could include overlapping layers, changing the opacity, adding an effect on to it such as: dodge and burn, use filters, levels and so on – sometimes, because a camera automatically creates this image, it means that only adding filters, extra effects or even cropping part of the image happens.

Light WritingLight Writing is achieved through a DSLR camera, it’s also achieved in a variety of locations, not just a standard studio, it is most successful when the room/location is pitch black and there is no trace of any surrounding light sources, this creates the best result.

Method: The usual method for Light Writing is drawing an image using a fiber optic light pen (this is not the only source of light that can be used), making sure not to shine the light directly in to the camera as it would create a twinkle sort of effect (could potentially ruin the image), it’s not recommended to keep going over the design with this pen as it makes it have a messy looking end result, ensuring the location/studio/room is completely pitch black until the picture is taken gives the best results also, it’s a simple process that can take the form of writing or shapes i.e. people, animals, a random image and so on.

Equipment: It’s not just the Fiber Optic Light Pen that can be utilized as a light source, there is also: LED Flash Lights, candles, matches, fireworks i.e. sparklers. Other equipment includes: tripod, flash (if needed), a DSLR camera with shutter speed priority and ensure you have a dark room or a location with absolutely no light sources.

Fiber Optic Light Pen

Light WritingSubjects: A city or landscape would be a potential subject for this type of technique, a dark room or a studio, anywhere dark with little or no lighting. Models could also be a subject for this particular technique as they can be what the light is drawn around to make a silhouette etc.

Post Production: There is quite a lot of post production work when it comes to the Light Writing technique, it’s used in film making where the designer may be required to add more light to the cover of a DVD and so on, however, it can be quite basic such as: colour change, adding, taking away or replacing a background, changing the opacity of an image/certain aspects, enhancing the light effects and so on.

High Speed Photography

High Speed Photography: This is ‘taking pictures of a very fast phenomena’ – it is defined as ‘any set of photographs captured by a camera capable of 128 framed per second or greater, and of at least three consecutive frames’ – it’s also considered the opposite of time-lapse photography. There are two different explanations defining what high speed photography is, this includes: a photograph is taken in such a way that it appears to freeze the motion and reduce motion blur, to give the effect that the object is stuck in time, like the first picture on the Left.The second: a sries of photographs are taken at a ‘high sampling frequency or frame rate’ to achieve a photographic sequence – like Eadweard Muybridge’s example: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-speed_photography

Method: The idea is to capture something in motion, for example: coffee blown out of a straw, a droplet of water after dropping an object and creating a splash, a bullet going through a vase and so on, this means capturing multiple images during this particular process in order to find the best one that shows the object as if it is stuck in motion – or in time. This requires quick reflexes and a particular type of camera.

High Speed Photography

Equipment: There are 3 different types of cameras that can be used for this type of photography, these are:Itermittent Motion Cameras: sped up version of a standard motion picture camera, it uses a sewing machine type mechanism which advances the film to a fixed exposure point behind the lens, it’s capable of hundreds of frames per second.Rotating Prism Cameras: Pull a long reel of film past an exposure point continuously, uses a rotating prism between the lens and the film to create motion, a rotating prism camera is capable of thousands of frames per second.Rotating Mirror Cameras: Relay the image through a rotating mirror to an arc of film, they can only work in a ‘burst mode’ – a rotating mirror camera is capable of millions of frames per second. You would also need a tripod, to avoid camera shake, props such as: the apple, possibly a studio depending on what type of photograph is desired and artificial lighting, also depending on what type of photograph is desired.

Subjects: An object to focus on, something that the photographer wants to capture in motion, it can be anything – a water droplet, a leaf falling off a tree, a bullet going through an object, an apple falling in to water and so on, maybe even a model.

High Speed Photography

Post Production Techniques: The most you could do for these types of images is, sharpen or blur certain aspects of the photograph, such as blur the background, sharpen the main object of the photograph. Dodging and burning is also another technique that can be utilized, even cropping parts of the image out that isn’t needed or draws too much attention or it could mean attempting to use traditional methods to get a certain effect.