Andrew Cody &Dr Michael HopkinsRapaport Fair Trade Conference

• Labour issues

• Environmental issues

• Who receives the returns

• Treatments

Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions

Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife

Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling

Disclosure Safety issues

Wholesale &

Distribution

Retailer

CONSUMER

Hundreds of Countries with a myriad of cultures and standards.

First Tier

What makes a mining operation Ethical?

Labour issues Human Rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety considerations Community Benefits Community displacements

Environmental issues Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife

Who receives the returns Political? Terrorists? Smuggling Money laundering

Treatments Disclosure Safety issues-irradiation Permancy of treatment Environmental impact

Large Scale Miners-Small Scale Miners

Gold Claims around the world

Metal Refining Process

Global Diamond Deposits

• Afghanistan & Tajikistan• Argentina• Australia• Bolivia• Brazil• Cambodia

• Canada• China• Colombia• Congo• Dominican Republic• Ethiopia & Somalia

• Guatemala• Honduras• India• Iran• Kenya• Laos

• Madagascar• Malawi• Mexico• Mozambique• Myanmar• Namibia

• Nigeria• Pakistan• Peru• Russia• South Africa• Sri Lanka

• Tanzania• Thailand• Turkey• Uruguay• USA• Vietnam

• Zambia

Top 39 Gemstone Supplier Countries

Pearl Harvest

Pearl Farm

Ethical Trade Issues Facing First Tier - Mining

• Labour issues

• Environmental issues

• Who receives the returns

• Treatments

Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities

Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife

Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling

Disclosure Safety issues

Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities

Child Labour in Mining Human rights

Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities

Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities

Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities

Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities

Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife

Environmental Impacts Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife

Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife

Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling

Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling

Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling

Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling

Disclosure Safety issues

203 Sovereign StatesDifferent CulturesDifferent StandardsDifferent Rules

Other Problems Associated with Implementing Ethical Trade

• Different Products- Gemstones & Metals • Different Supplier Countries

• Different Cultures

• Different Economic Structures

• Different Labour Standards

Each of the previously mentioned issues will vary according to :

Large miners will be easier to regulate

What about the thousands of small miners?

I can’t see this man being regulated easily!

2nd Tier

• Environment• Treatments• Safety Issues

• Labour Conditions*• Chemicals• Treatment disclosures*• Accurate Descriptions

• Full Disclosure• Harmonisation

• Disclosure• Safety

Third Tier

• Integrity-Deal only with Ethically Trading miners & manufacturers• Guarantees• Full Disclosure of treatments

Fourth Tier

• Integrity• Honesty• Buys from a source he believes is ethical• Guarantees• Discloses Treatments

Responsible Jewellery Council MembersTrade Associations• The American Gem Society• British Jewellers Association• Jewellers of America• Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America Inc.• National Mining Association• The National Association of Goldsmiths• World Gold Council

Service Industries (inc. financial institutions)• Int. Diamond and Jewellery Group ABN-AMRO• The Assay Office

Mining• AngloGold Ashanti• Arslanian Freres NV• Bonas & Co. Ltd• Dalumi Diamonds• Diarough N.V. • Dimexon Diamonds• HRA Investments Ltd• I.Hennig & Co. Ltd• Lazare Kaplan International Inc.• Overseas Dimaonds NV / Isee2• Rosy Blue N.V.• Rothschild Diamonds Ltd• Sima Diamond NV• Steinmetz• Suashish Diamonds

Responsible Jewellery Council Members

Gold Refining Hedging or Trading• Argor-Heraeus SA• Metalor Tchnologies SA• PAMP SA• PX Precinox SA• Valcambi SAJewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale• AR & AR Jewellery Inc• Aurafin LLC• Baume & Mercier• Boite D’Or Gioielli S.R.L.• Carrera y Carrera• C&J Jewelry• Cendres+M&eacute:taux SA• Christian Bernard• Colormasters Gem Corp• Cristofol Paris

Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale• DN Gems Corp• Gabriel & Co• Jaeger-LeCoultre• J.B. Jewelry• Leo Schachter Diamonds LLC• Libman & Company Ltd• Kristall Inc.• Regal Imports Ltd• Robertso Coin• Stubbs and Co

Responsible Jewellery Council Members

Retail• Argos Ltd• Ben Bridge Jeweler•Borsheims•Boucheron•Brown Goldsmiths•Bulgari S.p.A•Cartier•Chanel Horlogerie/Joaillerie•Day’s Jewellery•Element Jewellery•Gomez & Molina Joyeros•Goodmans Jewelers Inc•Hamilton Jewellers•Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design Ltd•Harry Winston•H. Cunningham Fine Jewelry Inc.•Helzberg Diamonds•Ice cool.co.uk

•JCPenney•Jewellery By Varouj Inc•Larter and Sons•Leber Jeweler Inc.•Lux Bond & Green•Marissa D. Harvey •Montblanc•Moet Hennessy – Louis Vuitton• Nicholas James•Piaget•Precious Metals•Reis-Nichols Inc.•Signet Group plc.•Simms II Jewelers•Tiffany & Co.•Transparence S. A.•Van Cleef & Arpels •WhiteFlash.com•Zale Corporation

Current membership is approximately 90 organisations.

But there are 100’s of thousands of businesses involved…

Are these people trading ethically?

Wholesale &

Distribution

Retailer

CONSUMER

Rules & Regulations are extremely complex.

Rules & Regulations are complex.

Rules & Regulations are moderate and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.

Rules & Regulations are simple and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.

WANTS ETHICAL TRADE!

Are they ethical traders?

1200 MembersIf one third of members agreed to join CIBJO’s Ethical Trade System, then it would raise $200,000 revenue annually if the cost of joining was $500 US per business.

Austria

Argentina

Australia

Brazil

Belgium

Canada

China

Egypt

Finland

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Portugal

Russia

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Africa

South Korea

France

Germany

Greece

Hong Kong

India

Israel

Italy

Japan

Mexico

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

Thailand

Turkey

UAE

United Kingdom

United States

The local organisation can administer the running of the Ethical Trade system within its country or region.

CIBJO-world jewllery confederation, can oversee the local approved organisations and also arrange third party verification through responsible auditors.

ICA Code of Ethics

Japan Jewellers AssociationCode of Ethics

AGTA

Code of Ethics

Colored Diamond

Association

Code Of Ethics

TGJTA

Code of Ethics

JAA

Code of E

thics

International Colored Gemstone Association

Thai Gem & Jewellery Traders Association

Gemological Institute of America

Gemmological Association of Australia

Jewellers Association of Australia

Japan Jewellery Association

American Gem Trade Association

The Gemmological Association of Great Britain

British Jewellers Association

ETC

Examples of Industry Codes of Ethics at work

Codes of Ethics contain rules by which members must abide.

Don’t set the bar too high initially.

ETHICAL TRADERRETAILER CAT 3

2009

ETHICAL TRADERMINER CAT 3

2009

ETHICAL TRADERMANUFACTURER CAT 3

2009

ETHICAL TRADERMANUFACTURER CAT 3

2009

Entry or Benchmark level

ETHICAL TRADERMINER CAT 3

2009

Awarded to members whose standards are high.

ETHICAL TRADERRETAILER CAT 3

2009

Highest level- may require donations to a charitable fund

Wholesale &

Distribution

Retailer

CONSUMER

Rules & Regulations are extremely complex.

Rules & Regulations are complex.

Rules & Regulations are moderate and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.

Rules & Regulations are simple and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.

WANTS ETHICAL TRADE! $ $

Wholesale &

Distribution

Retailer

CONSUMER

Rules & Regulations are extremely complex.

Rules & Regulations are complex.

Rules & Regulations are moderate and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.

Rules & Regulations are simple and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.

WANTS ETHICAL TRADE!

The people who suffer on the mines can’t afford to wait too long -let’s work together to try and make Ethical Trade a reality.