FRONTIER · 17.06.2019 · 42 Victory Lap The women of U.S. soccer celebrated an epic win last...

Timberlandʼs Next Play / Trade Show MovesF O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / J U N E 1 7, 2 0 1 9 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S

F R O N T I E RT H E N E W

MENSWEAR’S EMBRACE OF ALL THINGS OUTDOOR ALLOWS FOR THE PERFECT PAIRING OF TECHNICAL FOOTWEAR. HERE, FORSAKE’S WILSON BOOT WITH PEAK-TO-PAVEMENT TRACTION (AT LEFT) AND VASQUE’S TALUS XT GTX WATERPROOF LEATHER HIKER MARRY FASHION AND FUNCTION.

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C O N T E N T SC O N T E N T S

28“� ese things do come

and go, trends in streetwear, but there’s still

a lot of runway here.” - MATT POWELL ON THE MERGING OF OUTDOOR AND FASHION

INSIDER 11 Sustainable

FutureHow Timberland is upping its eco-focus to drive growth.

16 FN Spy Santoni and Sofi a Sanchez de Betak talk sustainability.

18 Japan Up Close Why the casual shoe trend is taking over the market.

20 FN Insights Shoe closure alternatives are securing big business.

FEATURES 23 Trade Show

Planner Everything you need to know about the upcoming industry events.

28 Into the Wild Men’s fashion gears up for a hike.

32 � e Modern Mountain Man What the fashion and outdoor markets are taking from each other.

THE LIST 35 Shoe of

the Week Adidas Outdoor’s Terrex Free Hiker gets the Parley treatment.

36 A Greener Pitch How brands should market their sustain-able initiatives to consumers.

38 Good Taste Activist runner Jordan Daniel on raising awareness for indigenous people.

39 Five Qs Darn Tough Vermont’s CEO talks expansion and the challenges ahead.

40 A Cut Above Spring ’20 women’s low-cut socks are high on performance.

FN PICK 42 Victory Lap

The women of U.S. soccer celebrated an epic win last week.

HERE & ON

THE COVERPhotographed by ANDREW MORALES

COVER CREDITS (From left)OVADIA & SONS postcard camp shirtMONSE pu er pantsSMYTHSON x S’WELL leather water bottle holderBEST MADE Ventile Boonie hat GOLD TOE socks

RAG & BONE Padded Jack shirt BEST MADE work shirt3.1 PHILLIP LIM O set track pants and poplin bum bag with sleeves GOLD TOE socks

KHOMBU Baterick shoe with K-Vent drainage system; OVADIA & SONS tapestry shirt; MONSE quilted pants; GOLD TOE socks

F O O T W E A R N E W S // J U N E 1 7, 2 0 1 9 // F O O T W E A R N E W S . C O M

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VENUS VS. SERENA: A MATCH-UP OF THE FAMOUS SISTERS’ SHOE GAME Week of June 17 FN looks at the athletes’ shoe style just in time for Venus’ 39th birthday.

Venus Williams, left, celebrates after defeating her sister, Serena, in a match during the opening day of the Mubadala World Tennis Championship in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, in December 2018.

WHAT GOOD IS RAISING WAGES IF COMPANIES THEN TURN AROUND AND LAY OFF WORKERS?

Week of June 17The same day Walmart said that it was raising its minimum wage to $11 per hour, it also announced mass layo� s, and reports have speculated about whether Amazon will push for more automation now that it’s raised its minimum wage to $15 per hour.

A Walmart in Hartford, Conn., in May 2017.

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TOO MUCH TECH: What Brands Need to Know About What Does or Doesn’t Work

8

Of retail executives believe adding AI and VR to stores will increase sales

Of consumers are uncomfortable with how stores use tech to make shopping personalized

HOW BRANDS AND RETAILERS CAN BENEFIT FROM RENTAL SERVICES

Week of June 17Amid digital shifts and store closures, clothing rental services are on the rise. Here, retail experts and executives share how this disruptive business model can help compa-nies come out on top.

Rent the Runway

Of shoppers say AI and VR will have no impact on whether they visit a store

DATA: ORACLE NETSUITE STUDY

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AUGUST 12-14, 2019 | LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER | REGISTER TO ATTEND AT UBMFASHION.COM

THE WHO’S WHO IN SHOES THE MOST COMPREHENSIVE COLLECTION

OF FOOTWEAR BRANDS.

1.STATE / 27 EDIT* / A.S.98 / ACTIV* / AD TEC / ADAM TUCKER / AETREX / ALEGRIA BY PG LITE / ALISS* / ALL BLACK / ALLAN K. / ALLENS / ALLROUNDER / ALMA

EN PENA / AMALFI BY RANGONI / ANAKI PARIS* / ANDRE ASSOUS / ANDREA CONTI / ANDROID / ANGKAN / ANTELOPE / ANUSCHKA HANDBAGS / APRES BY LAMO

AQUATHERM / ARA / ARAVON / ARCHE / ARCOPEDICO / ARIA & NICA / ARO* / ART & NEOSENS / ART / ASH / ASPORTUGUESAS / ATELIERS COLLECTION / ATELIERS

AZURA / B.A.I.T FOOTWEAR / BUT ANOTHER INNOCENT TALE / B.O.C. / B52 BY BULLBOXER / BACCO BUCCI* / BAGGALLINI / BAHAMAS* / BANDOLINO / BCBGENERATION*

BCBGMAXAZRIA* / BEARPAW / BEAUTIFEEL / BERNIE MEV / BIBI LOU / BILL BLASS / BIONICA / BIRD OF FLIGHT / BLACK SUEDE STUDIO / BLACKSTONE / BLONDISH*

BLOWFISH MALIBU / BORDAN SHOE COMPANY / BORN / BOS & CO / BRAND X HUARACHES / BRUSQUE / BUENO / BUFFALO / BULLBOXER / BUSSOLA / BUTTER / BZEES

C*H20 / CALOU STOCKHOLM / CAMPER / CANAL SAINT MARTIN* / CANDY POP* / CARRANO / CARRIED AWAY* / CARTAGO WOMENS / CARTAGO / CASE IH / CASTA

CAT FOOTWEAR / CC CORSO COMO / CECELIA NEW YORK / CGEAR SAND FREE / CHACO* / CHAMPION KIDS / CHARLES BY CHARLES DAVID / CHARLES DAVID

CHARLESTON SHOE CO. / CHARLIE STONE SHOES* / CHIE MIHARA / CHIE / CHOCOLAT BLU / CHOO CHOO SHOES / CHOOKA / CIRCLE G / CIRCUS BY SAM EDELMAN

CLIFF DWELLER / CLIFFS BY WHITE MOUNTAIN / CLOUD FOOTWEAR / CLOUD NINE SHEEPSKIN / COBB HILL BY ROCKPORT / COLE HAAN / COLOKO

COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR COMPANY / COMFORTIVA / COOL CHIC* / CORDANI / CORKYS FOOTWEAR / CORRAL BOOT / COUGAR / CREATIVE RECREATION / CREVO / CROCS

CROSSMONT* / CUADRA / CYDWOQ / DA BELLA / DAN POST / DANNER / DANSKO / DARN TOUGH VERMONT / DAVID TATE / DB WIDER FIT SHOES / DE WULF* / DEARFOAMS

DIBA TRUE / DINGO EST. 1969 / DNA SUSTAINABLE* / DOGO / DOLCE NOME* / DONALD PLINER / DORKING / DR. JELL’S* / DUNHAM / EARTH / EARTH ORIGINS / EASTLAND

EASTLAND 1955 EDITION / EASTLAND MADE IN MAINE / EASY B / EASY SPIRIT / ECCO / EILEEN FISHER / EL NATURALISTA / ELEFANTE ROJO / EMERIL LAGASSE / ERIC MICHAEL

ESPIRIT / ETHEM / EUREKA / EVOLVE* / FALCOTTO / FANTASY SANDALS / FEIYUE / FERGIE FOOTWEAR / FIDELIO AUSTRIAN OOSLGN / FINN COMFORT / FINNAMIC BY FINN

COMFORT / FINNMELLOW BY FINN COMFORT / FIRST STEPS* / FLEXUS / FLOAFERS / FLOJOS / FLORSHEIM / FLORSHEIM WORK / FLUCHOS / FLY LONDON / FOOTMATES*

FOOTPETALS / FOUR SEASONS SHOE CARE PRODUCTS / FRANCO SARTO / FREE PEOPLE / FRENCH SOLE / FRYE / FRYE & CO / FRYE ACCESSORIES / GABOR

GAMEDAY BOOTS / GANTER / GBX / GENTLE SOULS BY KENNETH COLE / GEOX / GERBER* / GIESSWEIN / GIORGIO BRUTINI / GIZZE HANDMADE / GLAMOUR BAG*

GLAMOURSY KIDS* / GLAMOURSY* / GOLO / GRABBERS / GRASSHOPPERS / GRAVITY DEFYER* / GRENDENE KIDS / GRENDENE / GRENDHA* / GUTTERI / GUY HARVEY

HAFLINGER / HALSA FOOTWEAR* / HAPPY WALKING / HARLEY-DAVIDSON / HEELYS / HELLAS SHOES ART S.A.* / HENRIETTE STEFFENSEN* / HINIA* / HISPANITAS

HOMERS / HUNTER BOOT / HUSH PUPPIES KIDS / ILSE JACOBSEN HORNBAEK / IMAC / INDIGO RD.* / IPANEMA / IRON AGE / IRREGULAR CHOICE / ISLAND SLIPPER / ITASCA

IVYLEE COPENHAGEN / IZOD / J.RENEE’ / JAFA / JAINE KLAIN* / JAMBU / JAN “N” HANK / JBU / JEFFREY CAMPBELL* / JENNY / JERUSALEM SANDALS / JESSICA SIMPSON

JOHNSTON & MURPHY / JOMA SPORT / JOSE REAL* / JOSEF SEIBEL / JOSMO / JSLIDES / JSPORT / KALSO EARTH / KAMIK / KANNA / KEDS / KEDS KIDS

KELSI DAGGER BROOKLYN / KENDALL & KYLIE / KENNEL & SCHMENGER / KENNETH COLE / KENSIE / KIDY / KNAPP / KOMCERO* / KORK-EASE / KORKS / L’AMOUR DES PIEDS

L’ARTISTE / LA PINTA / LA PLUME / LACOSTE / LACROSSE / LAFORST SHOES INC. / LAIDBACK LONDON / LAMO / LAREDO WESTERN BOOTS / LAURA ASHLEY*

LAUREN LORRAINE / LIFESTRIDE / LIVESTUDIO / LOINTS OF HOLLAND / LOLA CRUZ / LORELLA* / LOUISE ET CIE / LUCCHESE / LUCKY BRAND / LUGZ / MACARENA

MAGIA TEEN / MAISON SI / MARC FISHER LTD / MARC FISHER* / MARCHA BALLERINA* / MARIAN* / MARK NASON LOS ANGELES / MBT / MCRAE WORK / ME TOO SHOES

MEPHISTO / MERRELL / MERRELL KIDS / MEZLAN* / MILO / MINNETONKA / MIZ MOOZ / MOBILS ERGONOMIC / MODZORI / MOJA / MOLLY BESSA* / MOOTSIES TOOTSIES

MUK LUKS / MUNRO / N.Y.L.A / N.Y.L.A. PREMIUM / NALHO / NANETTE LEPORE / NANETTE NANETTE LEPORE / NAOT FOOTWEAR / NAOT OUTDOOR / NATURALIZER

NATURE IS FUTURE / NATURINO / NEOSENS / NEW ROCK SHOES, S.L.* / NEXTKNIT SOCKS / NICKY HILTON X FRENCH SOLE / NICOLE MILLER* / NINE WEST / NINE WEST KIDS

NMD BRAZIL / NUNN BUSH / OFFLINE / ONEX / OOMPHIES / OS 1ST / P448 / PACIFIC MOUNTAIN / PADDERS / PAJAR / PAPUCEI / PAS DE ROUGE / PATAUGAS* / PATRIZIA

PAUL GREEN / PAUL MAYER/ATTITUDES / PEDRO ANTON SHOES* / PEGADA* / PELLE MODA / PENDLETON BOOT / PENGUIN / PENSOLE FOOTWEAR DESIGN ACADEMY

PETITE JOLIE / PHOTOBENCH SERIES / PHOTOCAPTURE 360 SERIES / PHOTOSIMILE SERIES / PICON* / PIKOLINOS / PINAZ / PLAKTON / POLO RALPH LAUREN KIDS / PONS

POPOL VUH / PROPET USA / PUMA SAFETY SHOES / RAG & CO* / RAINBOW SANDALS* / RANGONI AMERICA / RAPISARDI / RAS / RE-MIX CLASSIC VINTAGE / REACTION

KENNETH COLE / REBELS / REEBOK WORK / REGINA ROMERO / REMONTE / RESTRICTED / REVA / ORTHOTICA* / REVERE SHOES / RIALTO / RIDE TECS / RIDER SANDALS

RIEKER “ANTISTRESS” / RJ’S FUZZIES / ROAN / ROC BOOTS AUSTRALIA / ROCKET DOG / ROCKPORT / ROCKPORT WORKS / ROCSOC / AQMATECS / ROLLIE NATION / ROMIKA

ROSCOMAR LTD* / ROSEMUNDE COPENHAGEN* / ROVERS / ROXY / RUBY SHOO / RUSTIC ASPHALT / RYKA / S.O.N.A.L.I / SACHA LONDON / SAIRA SHOES* / SALAMANDAR

SALPY / SAM EDELMAN / SANDRINO COLLECTION / SANDRO MOSCOLONI / SANITA / SANO / SANTANA CANADA / SAS SHOES / SAUCONY KIDS / SAVA / SAVA / SCHUTZ

SCOTT HAWAII* / SEPOL / SERGIO TOMANI / SEVEN DIALS / SEVEN7 / SHERIDAN MIA / SHOE THE BEAR (COPENHAGEN) / SHOES FROM MEXICO / SHU SHOP* / SIGOTTO UOMO

SILENT D / SIMPLY NATURAL ALPACA / SOCKS N SOCKS / SOCKWELL / SOFFT / SOFTINO’S / SOFTWALK / SOLS* / SOMETHING BLEU / SOPHIE LAURENT / SOREL / SPERRY

SPERRY KIDS / SPLENDID / SPRING STEP / SPRING STEP PROFESSIONAL / STACY ADAMS / STAHEEKUM / STEPPING STONES* / STONEFLY / STORM BY COUGAR / SUPERLAMB

SUPERRAMB / SUPERSOFT* / SUPPLY LAB / SUREFIT* / SWEDISH HASBEENS / TADPOLES* / TAHI SHOES / TAMARINDO / TAO PARIS / TAOS FOOTWEAR / TECS

TED BAKER LONDON / TESTOSTERONE / TESTOSTERONE / TEVA* / THE FLEXX / THE ORIGINAL MUCK BOOT COMPANY / THERAFIT / THIERRY RABOTIN COUTURE

THIERRY RABOTIN / THINK! / TOMMY HILFIGER / TOMMY HILFIGER KIDS / TONI PONS / TORPEDO / TOSCANA USA / TR1 / TRAQ BY ALEGRIA / TRASK / TRETORN / TROTTERS

TSUKIHOSHI* / TWISTED X / U-DOT / UNICORN SHOES / UNIONBAY / UNIQERS* / UNITED NUDE / UNITY IN DIVERSITY / UNLISTED KENNETH COLE / USPA / V-ITALIA

VAGABOND SHOEMAKERS / VALENTINA RANGONI / VAN HEUSEN / VENETI / VENTOLATION / VENUS / VERBENAS* / VIBRAM / VIBRAM FIVE FINGERS / VIBRAM FUROSHIKI / VICENZA

VICTORIA / VINCE CAMUTO / VINTAGE7 / VIONIC / VITAL ARCH / VITAL MADE IN AUSTRIA / VITAL / VOILE BLANCHE* / W6YZ / WALDLAUFER / WALKING CRADLES / WANDA PANDA

WESTERN CHIEF / WHITE MOUNTAIN / WOLKY / WOLVERINE / WONDERS / WOOL / WORISHOFER / WORK ZONE / XOXO / XTRATUF / ZAXY / ZIERA / ZODIAC USA* + MANY MORE

*NEW BRAND

INTERNATIONAL BRANDS LISTED IN PURPLE

LIST PULLED AS OF 5/31/19 TO MEET OUR PRINTING DEADLINE AND MAY NOT REFLECT COMPLETE LIST OF BRANDS.

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INSIDER

Sustainable Future

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T H E B I G S T O R Y 11 F N S P Y 16 A R O U N D T H E G L O B E 18

WATER WORKS Inside Santoni’s new ocean-inspired collaboration. p16

JAPAN UP CLOSE How the casual shoe movement is taking over. p18

How Jim Pisani is using Timberland’s

eco-friendly roots to drive every aspect of the brand’s business.

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BY PETER VERRY

Prior to Timberland, Pisani was VF Corp’s licensed group president

Hours of community service by Timberland employees across the globe

It didn’t take long for Jim Pisani to understand Timberland’s vital role in nurturing the environment. // Just two weeks into his stint at the Stratham, N.H.-based company in 2016, the

global brand president was knee deep in the company’s eco-friendly initiative — getting his hands dirty transforming a vacant Bronx, N.Y., lot into a lush garden. // Three years later, Pisani is working to make sure eco-consciousness is at the center of everything VF Corp.-owned Timberland does.

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The company has rolled out aggressive goals —

under the banner of Timberland Environmental

Product Standards — that it intends to hit by

2020. The initiative includes having at least

one recycled, organic or renewable material on

all footwear styles and using leather only from

Leather Working Group (an organization that

works together to maintain environmental

standards) with gold or silver-rated tanneries.

Industry insiders believe these efforts will help

the brand resonate with the outdoor consumer.

“They are leveraging their commitment to the

environment and the service they give. This

is something they’ve done for a long time but

haven’t talked about much,” said Matt Powell,

sports industry analyst at The NPD Group Inc.

“They’re starting to step up and share their ef-

forts with the public. They’ve done great work but

many people didn’t know what they were doing.”

As Timberland makes its sustainability mes-

sage loud and clear, Powell believes the brand has

opportunity with two distinct groups of consum-

ers — the core outdoor enthusiast and the fickle

fashion shopper. “It’s always been a conflict for

them to be true to the outdoor community, and at

the same time be a part of streetwear, but they’re

navigating it really well,” Powell explained. “The

product they’re doing for streetwear is clearly un-

derstood, and the consumer [knows] it has little

to do with the outdoor-focused consumer.”

Despite Timberland’s progress, the label is

up against several challenges. A pair of VF Corp.

brands, Vans and The North Face, are growing at

a faster rate. And the business still relies heavily

on the male consumer, with about 70 percent of

its sales in men’s. (Timberland reported a 4% rev-

enue increase in the Americas for the 12 months

ended March 2019, while overall revenues were

up 2% on a constant currency basis.)

“There is still some real runway for them on

the women’s side,” Powell said. “They’ve made

strides, they’re not strictly doing takedowns from

men’s product, they’re making products just for

her now, but there’s still more work to do.”

Ahead of Outdoor Retailer Summer Mar-

ket this week, Pisani talks about winning with

women, sustainability initiatives and the pressure

to improve sales growth.

President Donald Trump’s proposed tariffs are dominating the conversation. How concerned are you about this issue? “Years ago, we were looking to diversify our

sourcing and where we make our products. We

have limited exposure in China. What we make

there and ship to the U.S. is less than 7% — our

sourcing is across multiple countries. We would

feel a limited impact.”

The outdoor industry has been at odds with the White House over several climate-related issues. How important is it for Timberland to participate in these tough discussions?“We need to take a stand for what we believe in

— from our values to our purpose — and do the

right thing. We’re going to put politics aside and

be bipartisan. We will step up and be bold. We

need to think about how [decisions] impact us

from a community perspective. For me, it’s about

walking the talk and doing things to protect

nature and the outdoors.”

How do you plan to elevate your sustainability messaging?“It’s embedded in our brand. Our team is part of

our strategy, it’s been that way for years and con-

tinues to evolve. We’re about having responsible

product and sourcing. We’ve given 350 million

PET bottles (made of polyethylene terephthal-

ate) new life in our product. We’ve served more

than 1.2 million hours of community service

across the globe, and we’ve planted more than

10.2 million trees. What’s new is we wanted to

be bolder in our communications and invite the

community to participate. You’re going to hear

about a new campaign, Nature Needs Heroes,

and see how we celebrate the everyday hero

who is making the future greener and brighter.

They’re strong influencers in their own right and

are connecting with Timberland. It’s a global

campaign and an overarching connectivity back

to our purpose.”

How close is the brand to hitting its 2020 goals?“We’re constantly working toward all of our

goals — whether it’s using sustainable organic

cotton or silver-and gold-rated tanneries for

our leather. With our Haiti Cotton initiative,

it’s sustainable, long-term, life-changing. We

hadn’t been able to farm cotton in Haiti for 30

years and were able to help those farmers start

growing organic cotton again. We support and

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Jim Pisani (right) during a recent Urban Greening event in Harlem, N.Y.

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T H E B I G S T O R Y

Prior to the initiative, Timberland said cotton hadn’t been produced in Haiti for 30 years

CITY SLICKERTIMBERLAND’S NEXT SUSTAINABLE PRODUCT, A CITY-READY SNEAKER-BOOT, HITS STORES IN JULY.

Keeping with its sustainability mission, Timberland has a new eco-friendly silhouette made with the urban outdoor adventurer in mind. Hitting retail on July 22 is the Brooklyn EK+, a clean and sleek sneaker-boot the company said expresses eco-innovation, similar to the Earthkeepers boot debut in 2007. It will retail for $120. In line with Timberland’s commitment to increase its use of recycled, organic and renewable materials in all of its products, the Brooklyn EK+ boasts uppers, linings and laces made with ReBOTL, a proprietary tech made from recycled plastic. The lightweight and sporty look also employs soles made with 34% recycled rubber. — P.V.

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front and center — the assortment and how it’s

orchestrated gives us a diff erent view. As we talk

to our female consumer, we do it in a diff erent

way. We might have previously done it through a

male voice but now it’s changed. We have a direct

marketing approach — and from a product per-

spective, you see colors and a softer side of Tim-

berland. But it still has our rugged attitude and

our DNA in it. She’s something that continues to

be a focus for us across the globe — we’ve seen

great growth in our European women’s business

as well as the Americas and we’ll look to do this

moving forward in Asia Pacifi c as well.”

help them, but ultimately, they did it as a group.

We just gave them the resources — and Vans is

going to help as well. For us to be able to impact

that community in a bigger, broader way and to

be able to provide a future for those workers is

important for us. On our end, we’ll be able to

source the product from Haiti.”

How well does Timberland execute and promote sustainability compared to the greater outdoor industry?“We’re the leader in footwear, and as a lifestyle

brand we’re one of the top. But we’re not perfect,

we need to get better. We make products so there

are certain aspects that aren’t sustainable, but

our goal is to be planet positive someday. That’s

a lofty goal, but it’s one that’s important for us.

We’ve been doing this a long time and we’ve got

to get better year after year.”

Where do you see the most growth opportunity?“First and foremost, we want to continue to

diversify our portfolio. Men’s, women’s and

contemporary casual footwear, work and apparel

— those are all key categories. Elevating DTC

and digital will continue to be [priorities]. From

an Asia perspective, focusing on China is a key

strategy for us. Making sure we have healthy

sustainable growth across each region is really

important, focusing on a premium position

within our categories.”

How will Timberland cater to female consumers moving forward?“It’s one of the biggest opportunities for the

brand. When I came here a few years back and I

walked in the stores, it was challenging. [Now if

you go] into our Fifth Avenue store in New York,

you can clearly identify our women’s product

With the collaborations game constantly shift-ing, how are you capitalizing on this platform?“We’ve been fortunate to work with some of the

most creative brands and minds in the indus-

try, and we’ll continue to do that. One area

we’re focused is purpose-led collaborations. We

recently did one with Pharrell [Williams] called

‘Something in the Water.’ He [returned] to his

hometown in Virginia Beach to give back — we

had a pop-up and talked about how a greener

environment will lead to a brighter future for all

of us — and we did community service and volun-

teerism. We have a program with the NBA com-

ing this fall. The product is great, but there’s also

a volunteerism connection through NBA Cares

where we go out into the local community. Our

collaborations are going to be global and mean-

ingful. They’ll bring relevance, but we also know

consumers want more than just great product,

they want a brand that stands for something.”

Timberland hasn’t posted the growth that other VF Corp. brands have, such as Vans and The North Face, with improvements of 26% and 10%, respectively. What is your take on their performance?“Being part of the VF portfolio and having brands

like Vans and The North Face doing extremely well

is helpful for us. We share best practices — every-

thing around retail, digital, supply chain, con-

sumer insights and understanding of what’s going

on in the marketplace. Those are all advantages we

have being part of VF, and we’re able to learn from

one another. We’re certainly focused on our busi-

ness and the healthy sustainable growth that we

want to continue to build across the globe, I stay

focused on that, but I certainly reach out for ideas.

And we’re part of the senior leadership team so we

get together quite a bit to share best practices and

what’s working and what’s not.”

14

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Untitled-7 1 6/6/19 5:39 PM

I N S I D E R

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WEEKLY UPS AND DOWNS AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEENTopshop faces uncertain future

Ralph Lauren’s 2019 Sustainability Report

Lululemon Q1 earnings soar

Nike baller Kevin Durant ruptures Achilles

Hudson’s Bay Co. makes bid to go private

When it comes to fashion, Zooey Deschanel champions both comfort and style. The singer, actress and mother of two recently became a brand ambassador for Crocs’ Come As You Are Campaign. “I always wore fl ats or lower-heeled shoes when I play shows for my band,” said Deschanel, on embracing sensible footwear. The “New Girl” star added that she felt pressured to wear high heels on the red carpet, but decided to value comfort over expectations for women in the spotlight. “I recently I thought: ‘I can’t be happy if I’m not comfortable,’”she said. Deschanel added, “Crocs came to me last year with the idea and I loved the message behind the [campaign]. I really resonate with that. I always encourage people to be themselves and wear their own style.” Some of her Croc favorites include the Women’s LiteRide Pacer, and for her kids, the Classic Clog in pink and blue. — Madeleine Crenshaw

Ciara isn’t afraid to push the fashion envelope. Ever since she stepped out on the music scene in 2004 with the “Goodies” video wearing a swimsuit and jeans, it was clear the singer had her own sense of style. “You have to know who you are when it comes to fashion and expressing yourself as an artist because that’s a huge part of how people remember you,” she told FN at the 2019 ACE awards where she accepted the Style Icon Award. “You want there to be a visual when they think of you.” Ciara is looking to evolve her identity even more through her own collection. She said, “I have plans to do a lot in the fashion space. It’s all about timing, but I have been taking meetings, getting mood boards together. When the time is right things will roll out. I can’t wait to get my feet wet and start expressing myself through clothing and fashion.” — N.J.

The Santoni x So� a Sanchez collection will be available in

DecemberZac Posen on the fashion industry’s diversity and inclusion focus: “I’ve defi nitely seen some

progress. It’s important that we make it a strong message and it’s not just a fad or trend. For me, the world is defi ned through its diversity as beauty and I’ve always seen it that way and represented it that way. I would say over the years it wasn’t always accepted by the fashion community but I’m proud of where the industry has gotten to.” – N.J.

Making Waves Santoni and So� a Sanchez de Betak are putting sustainability � rst for an upcoming resort ’20 collaboration. BY NIKARA JOHNS

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Sofi a Sanchez de Betak is getting her feet wet in

more ways than one. The art director is designing

shoes for the very fi rst time alongside Italian luxury

label Santoni, and the inspiration behind this

collaboration is the ocean.

Sustainability was top of mind for both parties

when they created the resort ’20 capsule collection.

“I’ve always been conservative with the use of

plastic. It made sense to do something environmen-

tally conscious and now that I have a

daughter it made sense even more,”

Sanchez de Betak told FN. “We need to

generate more awareness. I know how

precious our world is.”

“The idea was to create this

capsule with a strong message,”

CEO Giuseppe Santoni said, adding

that a portion of the proceeds will be

donated to a non-profi t association

that deals with the preservation of

the oceans.

The company has been eco-con-

scious since 2005, using solar panels at

its factory to produce energy. A recycled water system

is also in place for rainwater recovery and reuse. “Our

building is made by 90% recycled materials,” said

Santoni. “We don’t use plastic in our production and

even in the company. The idea was to be sustainable

because I believe the people who have big opportuni-

ties have to be responsible for the future.”

As a seasoned scuba-diver, Sanchez de Betak

looked towards the underwater world for design

ideas. She said, “I’ve been scuba diving since a

young age. This was my fi rst passion. I dove with

whales, sharks, dolphins. I dove in Korea, Australia,

Ecuador, the Galapagos Islands, in the Caribbean

and Red Sea. I could not believe there was another

world down there.”

The collection is fi lled with nods to the ocean,

featuring seashells, coral reef motifs, and tones of

blue and sand in fl ats, mules, sandals and boots.

Plus, it’s a departure from the typical brand aesthetic,

which Santoni said he’s hoping will attract more U.S.

consumers to the label’s women’s category.

“This line is more light and feminine, which we

proved we can do,” Santoni explained.

Zac Posen at the 2019 CFDA Awards

The Crocband Clog

Behind the scenes at the Crocs campaign shoot

Visit us at OR booth #49142-ULPlease contact your local sales representative to preview our Fall 2019 Collection.

Untitled-1 1 6/5/19 4:44 PM

skyrocket. “Kicks are still big,”

she said. “[In the last few

seasons] there have even been

niche made-in-Japan sneaker

brands popping up — Moon-

star, Blueover, Spring Move,

just to name a few.”

Alongside these indie

kicks, other local labels

with an eye for wearability

and functionality have also

emerged in the market — and

become widely sought-after

both in Asia and abroad.

Suicoke, which makes practical outdoor footwear,

is one of them.

“The speedy growth of the footwear industry

has made Japanese buyers more interested in ex-

ploring different sides of the sector that may not

have been as popular in the past,” said a designer

behind the notoriously anonymous brand. “That

has opened up chances for a brand like ours.”

Sellenatala, a women’s brand that sells crafts

boots made of water-repellent leather to fight

off Japan’s frequent rain, has also been riding

the small-but-ascending wave of interest around

made-in-Japan names.

“We’re building the niche sector,” said designer

Ikue Enomoto. “More people are trying to see

meaning, value and stories in what they pur-

chase, while seeking comfort.”

For now, Western brands still rule the game,

but Morlan believes things are changing. “There

is a good amount of people who specifically look

for Japanese shoemakers,” she said.

An array of sneaker street style from last

fall’s Tokyo Fashion Week

A display from the Nike Kicks Lounge in Tokyo, which opened in 2017

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Walking into a mall in Tokyo, it’s easy to see that

Japanese customers crave comfort. They are also

really into sneakers — at least for now.

Athletic footwear dominates the sector in the

country, with giants such as Nike and Adidas

leading the throng.

Following closely behind are domestic brands

such as Asics and Mizuno, which shoppers tend

to prefer when it comes to actually hitting the

gym or jogging, according to Kaori Kawabata, an

analyst for sports footwear at The NPD Group

Inc., a market research company with offices in

Japan.

“Local labels are seen as quality, more appro-

priate choices for exercising,” she said. “Which is

why they still perform well, despite the big influx

of Western companies we’ve seen in recent years.

People trust them.”

Coming third in the sector are walking shoes

— footwear that’s casual and easy to move in.

“Japanese people tend to have very long com-

mutes and have to use busy public transportation,

which requires standing and walking for a long

time. Because of that, there is a high demand for

shoes that are walkable and comfortable all day

long, yet are still visually appealing,” said Wakana

Morlan, strategist at cross cultural consulting,

branding and marketing agency Btrax, which

focuses on the Japanese market.

The shift to casual footwear is fairly recent.

Over the years, Japan’s formal office culture

helped fashion brands from Jimmy Choo to

Coach develop a strong consumer following in the

region.

But consumer preferences have shifted, so

much so that office attire is under the micro-

scope. This month, more than 26,000 women

signed a petition protesting wardrobe restrictions

by Japanese companies, particularly their rules

requiring high heels in the office.

“As pop culture from the West has seeped

through Japan and our codes of societal conduct

have become slightly more relaxed, low-key shoes

have started seeing a surge in popularity,” Kawa-

bata said. “The trend isn’t as strong as South

Korea, where it’s acceptable to dress casually in

the office, but it’s grown.”

While sneaker market growth has seen

relatively flat growth between 2017 and today, it

experienced rapid increases between 2014 and

2016 — when revenues rose to $1.65 billion from

$1.3 billion.

While sneakers remain a favorite among

shoppers — particularly younger generations —

the hype around some styles, such as Air Maxes,

Asics Gel-Kayanos and the like, has cooled off a

bit. “Over the last two years, the market has been

flat,” Kawabata said. “The sneaker obsession is

not as strong as it used

to be. We’ve actually

seen almost negative

growth since 2017.”

But Morlan said

sneakers still have

strong momentum in

the country as global

demand continues to

A R O U N D T H E G L O B E

Inside Japan’s Growing Casual Footwear Trend While dressed-up styles used to dominate, sneakers have taken hold. BY MARIANNA CERINI

“MORE PEOPLE ARE TRYING TO SEE MEANING, VALUE AND STORIES IN WHAT THEY PURCHASE, WHILE SEEKING COMFORT.” — IKUE ENOMOTO

Number of women who signed a

petition protesting Japanese workplace rules requiring high

heels

26K

NPD analyst KAORI KAWABATA said Japanese consumers still prefer in-store experiences and gravitate to traditional advertising.

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20

industry: companies that make tie-free lacing systems.

Hickies, for one, developed a set of thermal-plastic polymer fastenings

that can be threaded through a shoe’s eyelets in various creative ways

for customized tightness and fit. Caterpy’s offering looks the most like a

conventional lace but with a series of bumps along its length that hold it

in place, without the need for a knot or bow.

“You thread like normal but you can control tension per row through-

out the whole shoe,” said Anthony Pong, managing partner at Caterpy.

“You can make each row tighter or looser to match your foot shape, if you

have certain foot pains or wide feet. They also make your shoes into slip-

on shoes without breaking the heel, as the laces are elastic.”

And at Boa, the B2B company created a fit system specifically for the

most challenging activities and environments in the world. A dial system

controls laces that run throughout the shoe, which can be adjusted for

tension as needed by the user. The product offering ranges from the

high-powered H Series, which brands have incorporated into footwear for

snowboarding and ski mountaineering, to the low-powered L Series that

is used in trail running and golf shoes.

“Historically, if you looked at closure systems, you were trying to

For years, athletic brands

catered to time-crunched

consumers’ appetite for

shoes they could easily

put on and take off.

Tying shoelaces, for

some people, is often an

irritant — particularly

for the parents of young

children. And for the

elderly, disabled, sick or

pregnant, the act of bending down to tie laces

may also be physically challenging or even im-

possible. Then there are athletes, for whom an

ill-fitting or hard-to-adjust shoe could impact

their performance.

But the popularity of laceless shoes — think

Nike HyperAdapt, Vans slip-ons or anything

with Velcro — has given rise to another cottage

New closure systems are encouraging customers to ditch their shoelaces for something a little more high-tech.

Tying Up Big Business

“Historically, if you looked

at closure systems, you were trying

to effectively close a product — you weren’t thinking of its performance features,” said Shawn Neville,

CEO at Boa Technology.

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Boa products are rigorously tested to ensure they can withstand twice the tension of anticipated use

2421

for marathons and triathlons, it places an

emphasis on aesthetics. In addition to the

main and kids’ collections, Hickies launched

a partnership collection with Swarovski that

features crystals embedded in the strap. It also

releases a limited-edition “color of the month”

product; due to their popularity, the soft pink

and translucent styles have since been made

available year-round. Well-known wearers

include Gigi Hadid and Jessica Alba.

“A lot of the stuff we see out there, it feels

bulky, it looks bulky and intrusive,” said Keith

Martine, marketing manager at Hickies. “What

we want to provide is the option to put some

innovation in your shoes, some customization,

that can either blend in or stand out.”

eff ectively close a product — you weren’t thinking of its performance

features,” said Shawn Neville, CEO at Boa Technology. “If you have a lace

or Velcro, you have to stop and completely re-do your product. With Boa,

you can ‘dial in’ your fi t in seconds.”

Footwear innovators have largely targeted athletes fi rst, due to the

emphasis placed on performance and edging out the competition. At Boa,

the company has designed its products with the elite athlete in mind

and is planning to reduce its number of brand partners in order to focus

on quality and innovation. The athletes who push the technology to the

limit are showcased in Boa’s “Pioneers” campaign; extreme alpinist Max

Berger recently paraglided off the peak of mountain K-2.

For direct-to-consumer Caterpy, the decision to focus on the U.S.

athletic market also provided an opportunity to rebrand. Originally

founded in Japan, Caterpy swapped its colorful, cartoon-heavy messaging

for a performance-based campaign that has been adopted by all its global

markets. While the company still retains a strong customer base in the

elderly and disabled, it is growing its sponsorship deals and is planning

to expand its colorways to attract a younger, sports-based market.

“Our inventor was an avid marathon runner,” said Pong. “In Japan,

we have a partnership with Asics, we’re the offi cial shoelace of Spartan —

the same company as American Ninja Warrior — and we also sponsor the

world record holder for Ironman right now, Matt Hanson.”

Not everyone is competing at the level of an Ironman participant,

but alternatives to shoelaces are still growing in popularity for use in

casualwear. While Hickies maintains that its users have worn the product

HOW SUSTAINABILITY TIES IN

By the Numbers

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For many customers, a brand needs to off er not just a high-quality product but also a demonstrated commitment to the environment. Fortunately for these closure companies, eco-friendly initiatives are already top of mind.

Caterpy laces avoid the “choking spot” often created by too-tight laces

2000The number of miles that a Caterpy lace can travel

Hickies recently collaborated with

APL to sell the APL Techloom Pro

sneaker with the brand pre-installed

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<1%The failure rate of Boa’s product line

6M packs of Hickies were sold in May 2019

HICKIES• Packaging is both recyclable and made from recycled materials

• The head piece of the fastening will be replaced with a recycled polymer

• Tests are being done to fi nd a sustainable alternative to the patented polymer currently being used for the main strap

CATERPY• All packaging is recyclable

• There is an emphasis on reusing the Caterpy lace; tests have shown the product’s average lifetime is three to fi ve pairs of shoes

• Scrap fabric from manufacturing is used to create hair ties, to minimize waste

BOA• Packaging will be entirely sustainable (recycled, recyclable, rapid degradability) in fi ve years’ time

• The use of virgin plastic will be reduced by a minimum of 50% over the next 10 years

• By 2027, Boa will incorporate recycled or renewably sourced materials into all of its products

ASM1908-FootwearNews_FINAL.indd 1 5/3/19 4:29 PMUntitled-6 1 6/6/19 12:02 PM

BY ERIN E. CLACK

L E S L I E G A L L I NPRESIDENT OF FOOTWEAR, INFORMA

Whatʼs new: “August marks a milestone move

for Magic. We are bringing all of our Las Vegas

shows under one roof at the Las Vegas Convention

Center. The move o� ers a unique opportunity to

reposition footwear on the show fl oor alongside its

apparel lifestyle counterparts. It gives footwear-on-

ly retailers a look into next season’s apparel trends,

helping them select the right shoe colors and

styles. The changes also will create a more robust

tra� c fl ow and provide our footwear exhibitors

access to apparel retailers who buy footwear.” Fresh faces: Teva, Voile Blanche, Roscomar, Rapisardi,

First Steps Hot categories: “Casual styles for both

women and men continue to trend. Also, women’s

midheight heeled boots and mules.” Social media initiatives: “We are pulling out all the stops when it

comes to social media and onsite activations.

Engagement is our buzzword. We are looking

to create Instagramable moments. Social media

is about fun, information, social awareness and

branding.” Top selling points: “As a show, we o� er

brands that enable retailers to gain a healthy

margin. We also provide a lot of value for our

attendees, including networking [opportunities],

education and experiences to help grow their busi-

nesses.” Attendance forecast: “We expect attendance

to be up from the last show because we don’t have

any date overlaps with other events.” Industry challenges: “Retailers need to break out of their

SHOWING OFFLeaders from footwear’s largest trade shows share how they’re adapting and evolving their events in today’s uncertain climate.

As the industry grapples with tremendous change and challenges — from the looming threat of tari� s to waves of store closures — trade show operators are working hard to maintain their must-attend status and deliver more value to their guests. Some are making location changes aimed at delivering greater convenience and e� ciency, while others are stepping up their service with expanded educational o� erings, networking opportunities and hospitality perks such as free meals and co� ee. Digital initiatives also remain a key priority, as shows increasingly utilize online tools and social media to help brands and buyers better connect and build their businesses. And more than ever, shows are curating a robust roster of established and up-and-coming brands as a way to attract buyers. Here, the directors of � ve of the market’s largest domestic and international events share their plans for the season ahead.

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comfort zone. In Europe, you see the energy in

independent retail stores and it makes you wonder

why this is not happening in the U.S. Retailers

need better assortments, more unique in-store

experiences and more engaged salespeople. They

need to o� er the consumer something they do not

already own and that they cannot easily fi nd on

the internet for a lower price.” Outlook: “Generally

positive. There are many retailers out there who

have found their niche — they are laser-focused on

who they are, what they produce and what makes

them stand out from the crowd. They are embrac-

ing digital tools and working to build new brand

relationships to attract customers.”

J O H N H E R O NEXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, FFANY

Whatʼs new: “We are debuting our brand showcase

at 24 W. 57th St. It’s a new venue — centrally lo-

cated next to FFANY’s member showrooms and the

Warwick Hotel exhibitions — that o� ers

retailers an opportunity to preview a curated

showcase of top brands while enjoying FFANY

hospitality. Featured brands will include Dansko,

Birkenstock, Crocs, Cougar, Washington Shoe

Company, Propet, Valencia and Bearpaw.” Fresh faces: “We are thrilled to welcome back Foot-

wear Unlimited and its brands: Baretraps, Lucca

Lane, Andrew Geller and Wear.Ever. Other new

brands include Enter Beach, QKD and Realplay.”

Hot categories: “After the dreary and wet spring,

we are ready to see sandals. Also, there are lots

of mules on the street and in stores this spring,

so it will be interesting to see the updates to this

silhouette.” Social media initiatives: “We are looking

to launch a more interactive mobile application

for future shows with tools that make conducting

business in New York as convenient and simple

as possible.” Top selling points: “Our core principle

of showcasing the top national brands has always

been, and will continue to be, the leading attrac-

tion to retailers. In addition to that, our hospital-

ity for retailers at a centrally located showcase is

going to be terrifi c. We will have breakfast, lunch,

snacks, afternoon wine, as well as made-to-order

co� ees and smoothies each day.” Attendance forecast: “Realistically, we expect attendance to be

down a bit. As both the retail and wholesale

sectors continue to consolidate and a higher

percentage of footwear is purchased direct-to-

consumer, attendance is naturally declining. We

are focusing our e� orts on who is coming and how

can we make it as advantageous as possible for

At the FN Platform show, shoe brands will exhibit alongside similar ready-to-wear labels

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them to conduct business.” Industry challenges: “The looming tari uncer-

tainty is foremost on everyone’s mind and will ultimately determine the

success of the year for everyone in footwear.” Outlook: “The fi rst half of

the year has been tough across almost every sector. There have been

some bright spots, but all in all — and I hate to blame it on this — the

weather has conspired against the industry this year. Even with a late

Easter, we have not seen the warm early-spring days that bring out

the sandal shopper and jump-start the season consistently across the

country. But footwear people are resilient.”

L A U R A C O N W E L L O ’ B R I E NEXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET

Whatʼs new: “We have cultivated a unique exhibitor and attendee experi-

ence — while not distracting from the goal of writing orders — in several

key ways. Our exhibitors are investing in the retailer’s experience with

bigger and better custom exhibits. Our cocktail reception is growing and

is the place to have fun and continue networking o the show fl oor.”

Fresh faces: Casta, Regina Romero, Verbenas, Vagabond, Ateliers Hot categories: “Comfort and lifestyle brands still rule. Comfort lines are

becoming more stylish, so the consumer is not compromising on fashion.

Athletics are coming in very strong, as well.” Social media initiatives: “Our

‘featured exhibitor’ social casts promote unique stories across multiple

channels. This summer, we are introducing the Capture experience,

which will provide exhibitors an opportunity to share rich, show-based

content across web and social platforms to help deepen engagement

and relationships both during and after the show.” Top selling points: “We continue to fi nd ways to make shopping the show innovative and

easy. We o er educational seminars, complimentary hospitality areas,

an opening-night cocktail party and casino night and more.” Attendance forecast: “I expect attendance to be up, as we saw a huge increase in

February. Our show has become a very strong contender in the industry,

o ering attendees great value and ease in shopping under one roof, as

well as an opportunity to see all the top brands. In addition, Atlanta is

easy to fl y in and out of, especially for our international visitors.” Industry challenges: “The unknown is still one of the biggest. Also, the U.S. and

China trade tensions are a huge factor.” Outlook: “Uncertainty and

confusion are two of the most challenging issues facing retailers in the

second half of the year and beyond. Digital business continues to grow,

and companies are selling direct to the consumer, creating challenges for

traditional retailers.”

T O M M A S O C A N C E L L A R ACEO, MICAM MILANO

Whatʼs new: “The upcoming Micam is particularly dear to us as it’s the

50th edition. As such, it represents an excellent opportunity to listen to

companies and buyers and tackle the challenges facing the market with

renewed motivation. The mission of Micam remains the same today: to

be at the service of operators, providing them with a constantly evolving

business tool. And there will be newness, surprises and opportunities

to contemplate how far we’ve come in recent years and to identify new

goals.” Fresh faces: “In addition to the most interesting made-in-Italy

brands, there will be foreign companies defi ned by their high quality and

variety, not to mention emerging young designers. The latter will have a

dedicated area in Pavilion 4, and their collections will be showcased on

the runway on Sept. 16.” Hot categories: “The most lively and well-devel-

oped category is still women’s shoes, which tends to be more connected

to fashion trends and innovations in design.” Social media initiatives: “To

make our social media presence even more interactive, international

infl uencers have been promoting the event to communities that are

strategic for made-in-Italy exports, such as the U.S. and China, and in so

doing are contributing to the positive trend that is set to keep growing.

We also have new surprises in store for our September fair.” Top selling points: “To stay in line with retailers who need their businesses to be

increasingly profi table but have very little time to spend at the fair, we’re

focusing on expanding and improving the standard of our services to

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Market sits at the front of

the buying season. That

means we’re going to see

the latest outdoor gear as it

is launched. All three fl oors

of the Colorado Conven-

tion Center are full, and

Venture Out — the area

highlighting trendsetting

brands and products — is

the biggest it’s ever been,

with nearly 100 exhibitors.

We also have an expanded

overlanding zone and have seen a lot of growth in

the CBD and wellness categories. Also, the Demo

Experience will be in a new location with a beach,

trails and lake to test products. We’re also excited

for the ninth annual Outdoor Retailer Inspira-

tion Awards.” Fresh faces: Jerusalem Sandals,

FlipRocks, Chrome Industries Hot categories: “We’ve seen a resurgence in trail running. Familiar

road-racing brands are hitting the trail with new

technical models including Nike Trail, Hoka One

One and Saucony.” Social media initiatives: “We’re

highlighting the theme of inspiration to coincide

with the Inspiration Awards, which will be held

on the fi rst night. Across our digital channels,

we’re celebrating the people helping the industry

grow and evolve. There’s a huge uptick in activity

[on our social media] around the shows, and we

make it a point to capitalize on those days to truly

represent the vibe and sense of community.” Top

selling points: “We have redirected our marketing

e� orts so they better resonate. In the past, there

was an emphasis on direct mail or blanket emails,

and now we’ve shifted to more personal outreach

to retailers. We’re visiting more stores and attend-

ing regional shows to tell the OR story, and we

have a scholarship program for stores facing a

hardship.” Attendance forecast: “We expect to see

attendance on par with last year.” Outlook: “Trade

and tari� s are a big topic of conversation. So many

outdoor products are facing an additional import

tari� if sourced from China — from hiking boots

to sleeping bags and tent poles — and all other

apparel and footwear. These costs will also impact

retailers and consumers. As the industry gathers at

the show, we expect to see everyone come together

to support e� orts by the Outdoor Industry Associa-

tion and others, and hopefully make a collective

push to prevent any new tari� s.”

make visiting us easier, more e� cient and fun.”

Attendance forecast: “Our September 2018 edition

had 45,424 visitors, representing a 4% increase

in international visitors and nearly 2% increase

in Italian visitors. These results show that Micam

is increasingly important to the global industry.

We’d like this trend to continue, but we’re also sure

there will be a slight fall in the number of exhibi-

tors over the next few editions, as we are being

more selective with regard to the brands taking

part.” Industry challenges: “Current economic and

political changes pose complex challenges. From

the return of duties on certain products to the

unprecedented Brexit situation, these scenarios

complicate the industry’s dynamics. These factors

run alongside the di� cult balances already at play,

such as the aggressive down-pricing strategies of

countries like China, the criminal counterfeiting

that continues to prosper and the dynamics of

international and national economics that

impact purchasing.” Outlook: “We face many

challenges at the international level; however,

we’re sure that looking beyond the borders of the

local market is the only way to remain competitive.

It certainly won’t be an easy year, but we implore

the sector not to be discouraged.”

M A R I S A N I C H O L S O NVP AND SHOW DIRECTOR, OUTDOOR RETAILER

Whatʼs new: “For the fi rst time, our Summer

LABEL ARRAY JUNE 17-19; OCT. 14-16

California Market Center, Los Angeles

OUTDOOR RETAILERJUNE 18-19; NOV. 5 - 7

Colorado Convention Center, Denver

SHOE MARKET OF THE AMERICAS JUNE 23-24; SEPT. 8-9

Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention Center, Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

LINEAPELLE JULY 9

Ham Yard Hotel, London

JULY 17-18

Metropolitan Pavilion, New York

OCT. 2-4

Fiera Milano, Milano-Rho, Italy

CABANA SHOWJULY 13-15

Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami, Fla.

The OR show will host several seminars focused on sustainability

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MARKET DAYA roundup of industry trade shows for the second half of 2019.

CLEAR EXCESS INVENTORY*

RECEIVE A TAX DEDUCTION FOR YOUR GIFT

HELP FOOTWEAR FAMILIES IN NEED

TWOTEN.ORG/[email protected] • 781.736.1500

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SHOES

*Excess inventory comprised of hash, returns, and/or past season product.

FN Single/Spead TEMPLATE.indd 1 6/11/19 11:08 AMFN Single/Spead TEMPLATE.indd 1 6/12/19 5:43 PM

LABEL ARRAY JUNE 17-19; OCT. 14-16

California Market Center, Los Angeles

OUTDOOR RETAILERJUNE 18-19; NOV. 5 - 7

Colorado Convention Center, Denver

SHOE MARKET OF THE AMERICAS JUNE 23-24; SEPT. 8-9

Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention Center, Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

LINEAPELLE JULY 9

Ham Yard Hotel, London

JULY 17-18

Metropolitan Pavilion, New York

OCT. 2-4


CABANA SHOWJULY 13-15

Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami, Fla.

SEPT. 14-16

Pier 94, New York

CAPSULE JULY 13-15

Miami Beach Convention Center

SEPT. 14-16

Pier 94, New York

PREMIERE VISION

JULY 16-17

Pier 94, New York

SEPT. 17-19

Paris Nord Villepinte, Paris

PURE LONDON

JULY 21-23

Olympia London, London

LIBERTY FASHION & LIFESTYLE FAIRS JULY 22-24

Pier 94, New York

AUG. 12-14

Sands Expo, Las Vegas

BLUEGRASS BUYERS MARKETJULY 28-29

Embassy Suites, Lexington, Ky.

CHILDREN’S GREAT EVENT SHOE SHOW JULY 30-31

The Marriott Glenpointe Hotel, Teaneck, N.J.

TRU SHOW

AUG. 4-5

Embassy Suites San Francisco Waterfront, Burlingame, Calif.

CHILDREN’S CLUB

AUG. 4-6

Pier 94, New York

FFANYAUG. 5-9; DEC. 2-6

Member showrooms, Warwick Hotel, 24 W. 57th St., New York

THE MATERIALS SHOW AUG. 6-7

Aleppo Shriners Auditorium, Wilmington, Mass.

AUG. 14-15

Oregon Convention Center, Portland, Ore.

MAGICAUG. 12-14

Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas

For the fi rst time, all Magic shows are under one roof, including FN Platform, WWDMagic, Project and Footwear Sourcing.

FN PLATFORMAUG. 12-14


FOOTWEAR SOURCING AT MAGICAUG. 12-14


AGENDAAUG.12-14

Sands Expo Center, Las Vegas

NORTHWEST SHOE TRAVELERS AUG. 16-18

St. Paul River Centre, St. Paul, Minn.

ATLANTA SHOE MARKET AUG. 18-20

Cobb Galleria Centre, Atlanta

TORONTO SHOE SHOW AUG. 18-20

The Toronto Congress Centre, Toronto

MICHIGAN SHOE REPUBLIC AUG. 25-26

Embassy Suites, Livonia, Mich.

NATIONAL BRIDAL MARKET CHICAGO

AUG. 25-27

Merchandise Mart, Chicago

SAPICA AUG. 27-30

Poliforum León Guanajuato, León, Mexico

CHICAGO SHOE MARKET AUG. 28-29

Embassy Suites Downtown, Chicago

GALLERY SHOESSEPT. 1-3

Areal Bohler, Dusseldorf, Germany

ALL CHINA LEATHER EXHIBITION SEPT. 3-5

Shanghai New International Expo Centre

SURF EXPOSEPT. 5-7

West Concourse, Orlando, Fla.

WHO’S NEXT SEPT. 6-9

Porte de Versailles, Paris

NORTHWEST MARKET ASSOCIATION SEPT. 7-10

Embassy Suites, Tigard, Ore.

BOSTON SHOE TRAVELERS ASSOCIATION SEPT. 8-10

DoubleTree by Hilton, Manchester, N.H.

MOSSHOES SEPT. 10-13

Crocus Expo, Moscow

MOMADSEPT. 12-14

Feria de Madrid, Madrid, Spain

COTERIE/SOLE COMMERCE SEPT. 15-17

Javits Center, New York

MICAM MILANOSEPT. 15-17


This year marks the 50th anniversary of Micam, which will highlight made-in-Italy brands and emerging designers.

MIPELSEPT. 15-17


PREMIERE CLASSE SEPT. 27-30

Jardin des Tuileries, Paris

TRAOI WOMEN’S SEPT. 27-30

Palais de la Bourse, Carrousel du Louvre, Paris

THE RUNNING EVENT DEC. 3-5

Austin Convention Center, Austin, Texas

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MARKET DAYA roundup of industry trade shows for the second half of 2019.

FN Single/Spead TEMPLATE.indd 1 6/12/19 5:46 PM

W I L DI N T O T H E

Menswear gets adventurous with rugged, utilitarian ready-to-wear that’s tough enough to keep up with the technical footwear and gear that inspired the look.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY

ANDREW MORALES

STYLE DIRECTOR

SHANNON ADDUCCI

MARKET EDITOR

PETER VERRY

S T Y L EF NThis page

MERRELL Altalight Knit lightweight hikers with Stratafuse exoskeleton

MICHAEL KORS turquoise crewneck sweater

BURTON MINE 77 Weatherly cargo shorts

NIKE Tech Pack 2-in-1 running shorts

GOLD TOE socks worn throughout

Opposite page (from left)

THE NORTH FACE EQBC slide with nylon ripstop and buckle closure system

MONSE plaid shirt coat

HERON PRESTON Airport Security Jkt Dots CTNMB jacket

FEIGN denim cuto� shorts

CHACO FOOTWEAR Chillo sandals with EVA midsoles and jacquard straps

ABYSM leather shirt

BURTON Clingman shorts

MICHAEL KORS knit bucket hat

Models’ own jewelry worn throughout

29

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KEEN Highland-M shoe with lace-lock bungee system

3.1 PHILLIP LIM funnel neck vest

MONSE half-zip turtleneck

NIKE Aerolayer running vest

LANDLORD nylon denim pants

BURTON Beeracuda cooler bag

ON LOCATION: LEGEND OF THE FALLSThe western U.S. is incomparable when it comes to hiking trails and the vistas that accompany them. But Kaaterskill Falls in New York’s Catskill Mountains makes a compelling case for heading East. Roughly a two-and-a-half-hour drive from New York City, the falls are one of the oldest outdoor tourist attractions in the U.S., gaining fame in 1819 as the site where Washington Irving’s fi ctional Rip Van Winkle awoke from his two-decade slumber. The tiered falls have two main cascades totaling a 260-foot drop, accessible via a half-mile hike up a series of deceptively steep rocks.

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(From left)

THE NORTH FACE Skagit water shoes with proprietary EXTS outsole traction system

THE NORTH FACE Flight Trail vest

DYNE Roemer shirt and Renzo track pants

COLUMBIA Montrail F.K.T. trail runner with Adaptive Terrain Response midsole

SACAI leopard blouson

3.1 PHILLIP LIM O� set track pant

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S T Y L E

North Face, and Salomon has partnered with Boris

Bidjan Saberi and The Broken Arm.

“Fans are now avidly anticipating the

seasonal releases from these collaborations,”

said fashion program manager Jean-Philippe

Lalonde. “Working with such creatives has also

allowed us to explore beyond our traditional

design language.”

While fashion can be fi ckle, industry insiders

such as The NPD Group Inc. senior sports indus-

try analyst Matt Powell believe the union between

outdoor and streetwear is here to stay. “These

things do come and go, trends in streetwear, but

there’s still a lot of runway here,” Powell said. “If

brands pay close attenton to what the consumer is

asking for, they can extend this for some time.”

Ankur Amin, CEO of TGS (parent company

to retailers including Extra Butter), noted that

the outdoor market should also get a boost from

competing athletic brands.

“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic

ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-

rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming

O� -White x Nike collab on the Air

Kiger will surely add another

level.”

One One global VP of product Gretchen Weimer.

“We’re not doing anything to make it more

appealing to streetwear; we’re making it for con-

sumers who want to use it in the outdoors, so it’s

being adopted because of the performance and

aesthetics of the product.”

That doesn’t mean brands aren’t expanding

their horizons through collaborations. Hoka has

gained attention in the past for teaming with Engi-

neered Garments and Outdoor Voices.

“It’s about fi nding partners who appreciate the

brand for what it is. We’ve been really selective,”

Weimer said. “If people are interested in the brand

because it’s the newest, shiniest thing, that’s not

what we’re interested in.”

Other brands playing with collaborations in-

clude Kith and Adidas Outdoor, Supreme and The

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“Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic “Nike’s had ambitious rollouts of their iconic

ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-

rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming rex franchise recently,” Amin said. “The upcoming

O� -White x Nike collab on the Air O� -White x Nike collab on the Air

Kiger will surely add another Kiger will surely add another Kiger will surely add another Kiger will surely add another

level.” level.” level.” level.” level.” level.”

















































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ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-ACG line, and Adidas did collabs around their Ter-










































Finding the TrailDid outdoor gear inspire the latest trends — or is the industry � nally warming up to fashion? For key footwear brands, it’s a symbiotic relationship. By Peter Verry

M E N ’ S F A S H I O N

Outdoor’s rugged aesthetics and performance tech

have permeated streetwear and fashion for de-

cades, but the latest seasons have arguably reached

an apex in the marriage of the two markets.

Back in March 2018, Balenciaga debuted its

Track Trainer, a trail running-inspired silhouette,

for fall ’18. Since then, other high-end brands have

followed suit in adopting outdoor aesthetics, most

notably Gucci, with a leather and mesh spring ’19

sandal that raised some eyebrows at Keen (see

page 33). The momentum has not waned during

the spring ’20 season showing in Europe now.

But the trend is not just a one-way street.

Lifestyle expert Jerome LaMaar, who hosted trend

forecast lectures at Outdoor Retailer for a decade,

said he witnessed a dramatic style shift among at-

tendees throughout his years attending the show.

“When I started doing outdoor market trend

forecasting for OR over 10 years ago, I was the only

person of color wearing Y-3 and edgy streetwear

with hybrids of outdoor. It was taboo; it was new

for them,” LaMaar said. “To come back in 2018 af-

ter three years of not being there, there was more

fashion design for women and even more fashion-

able colors for men. Now I think they understand

you need a fashion element.”

Although streetwear and fashion are still large-

ly focused on aesthetics, nowadays, it’s functional-

ity — not just looks — that is driving the moment.

“When you integrate elements that are

protective for surviving on a summit and you’re

wearing it to school or work or in the city, you

feel like you’re wearing something that has

quality without spending thousands of dollars,”

LaMaar explained. “[Brands] put so much e� ort

into the function to make sure it is sturdy and

strong, so you’re wearing an amazingly crafted

garment, and it becomes part of who you are.

You feel like you’re wearing luxury.”

Despite the desire for style and current trends,

core players in the outdoor space see no reason to

change their approach to product development.

“People want authentic brands and Hoka is

authentic and is being adopted as is,” said Hoka

Mostly Heard Rarely Seen convertible cargo pants

O� -White multi-pocket vest

Loewe bucket hat

Hoka Mid GTX boot

SALOMON Supercross runners with Contagrip outsole and EnergyCell

cushioning

STUTTERHEIM Stockholm rubberized striped raincoat

MICHAEL KORS neoprene cargo joggers

The Modern Mountain Man

THE OUTDOOR EQUATION

S T Y L EF N

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Gucci revealed via Instagram a photo of models wear-ing its new “sneaker-sandal hybrid design with Velcro straps and elastic laces” in March — a silhouette that fans quickly noted bore a striking resemblance to Keen’s popular Newport sport sandal. But instead of calling the legal team, Keen responded with humor, posting its own image of employees (and one employee’s dog) posing in its classic outdoor style.

At the time, Keen senior director of global marketing Ashley Williams said the brand was “honored to be associ-ated with such an iconic brand.”

Three months later, with time to refl ect on Gucci’s con-troversial post, Williams’ stance hasn’t changed.

“Always remaining true to who we are as a brand

meant our response to the Gucci post was met with overwhelmingly positive responses from our partners and fans,” Williams told FN. “We were fl attered that such a brand sought inspiration from Keen and that we’ll continue to lead and let others follow.”

However, the exec also said the incident confi rmed something Keen already knew.

“Outdoor infl uencing fashion shows no signs of slowing down, and we see this trend increasing as outdoor compa-nies continue to innovate the design, materialization and production of their product o� erings,” Wiliams said.

Several Newport styles from Keen are now available for men, women and kids, with prices ranging from $45 to $110. The Gucci leather and mesh sandal retails for $890. — P.V.

T H E S P O RTS M A N ’S PAT T E R N I S A P E R E N N I A L , BU T TO DAY ’S B EST V E RS I O N S G E T M O R E S P EC I F I C : N i ke h a s a n o n go i n g pa r t n e rs h i p w i t h Rea l t re e, t h e rea l i st i c ca m o u f l a ge co m pa ny w i t h a c u l t fo l l ow i n g . U n d e r A r m o u r d eve l o p e d i ts ow n p r i n t , s h ow n h e re o n i ts S p e e d Fre e k B oze m a n 2 .0 h u n t i n g b o o t .

A WORD ON CAMO

Keen employees (and Ridley the dog) wear-ing Newport Retros in an Instagram photo the brand posted in March, responding to Gucci’s debut of a similar style

Iceberg’s Vibram soles accented with a dipped rubber toe

Last year at Louis Vuitton, men’s

artistic director Virgil Abloh put

the brand through an “accessomor-

phosis,” a term he coined to ex-

plain his melding of ready-to-wear

with the functionality of bags and

pockets. It’s the perfect concept for

a company with a core heritage of

handbags — but the aesthetic also

aligns with the utility of outdoor

gear. The idea has since permeated

the rest of menswear, most recent-

ly at London Fashion Week Men’s

and Pitti Uomo earlier in June,

where there were anoraks aplenty,

hybrid hikers, trail runners, fanny

packs strapped to the chest,

fi shing vests, bucket hats and

even a return to the divisive cargo

pant. Here are some highlights. — Shannon Adducci

Take a Fashion Hike

VIBRAM GRIPSTHE RUNWAY The 103-year-old outsole company has found a new frontier in fashion as of late, working with brands such as Moncler, O� -White, Visvim, Ralph Lauren and Ermenegildo Zegna. Most recently, its iconic logo graced the bottoms of train-ers on the runway at Iceberg on June 8 during London Fashion Week Men’s.

Studio ALCH

Munn

Salvatore FerragamoFeng Chen Wang

Givenchy

33

HOW KEEN KEPT ITS SANDAL SCANDAL-FREE

FOR APPOINTMENTS AND INFORMATION CONTACT: SUSIE LEVITT | [email protected] | 212-629-0282, EXT. 251 | WWW.KHOMBU.COM

From Rooftops to Mountain Tops

JUNE 18-20DENVER, COBOOTH# 51142-UL Official Aprés

Ski Boot Provider

to the

U.S. Ski Team

Untitled-17 1 6/12/19 9:24 AM

SHOE OF THE WEEK

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S H O E O F T H E W E E K 35 T H E I S S U E 36 G O O D TAS T E 38 F I V E Q S 39 S P R I N G T R E N D 40

Going green has never looked so good. For spring ’20, Adidas Outdoor updates its stylish, trail-ready Terrex Free Hiker with uppers made from Parley for the Oceans’ recycled plastic. The sustainable material is paired with Boost cushioning, providing comfort throughout the longest of treks.

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

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HOME RUN How this activist runner is using her platform to raise awareness for indigenous people causes. 38

MAN ABOUT TOWN Darn Tough Vermont CEO talks brand impact on the local community. 39

HOME RUN How this activist runner is using her platform to raise awareness for indigenous people causes.

community. 39

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36

L I S T T H E I S S U E

ing attention to sustainability in

the marketplace: According to the

market research giant Nielsen, 48%

of U.S. consumers said they would

definitely or probably change their

consumption habits if it meant

having a lower impact on the

environment. Sales of eco-friendly

products are also growing at around

four times the rate of conventional

goods, the same study found.

It pays, then, to communicate

about sustainability — so long as the

messages are authentic, according

to experts.

“We have been eco-minded for a

long time, but [have been] reluctant

to talk about it in our marketing,”

said Magnus Wedhammar, VP and

GM of Sanuk. “Our new approach is

to share what we are doing versus

being afraid of not being perfect.”

That involves striving to use

more vegan and recycled materials,

minimizing packaging waste with

biodegradable plastics and recycled

paper and pursuing partnerships

with organizations that are relevant

to its community of surfers and

yogis. The company is in its third

year of partnering with the Surfrider

Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated

to protecting oceans and beaches

around the world.

For Vivobarefoot, its rule of

thumb for environmental marketing

is to stick with the most straightfor-

ward ideas.

“In general, the simple, material-

orientated messages resonate more,

which we will do more

of going forward,” said

Asher Clark, Vivobare-

foot’s design director. “As

it stands, recycled plastic

is the most common

conversation-driver in the

shoe world, but natural

and now bio [‘made from

plants’] materials are

becoming more prevalent

and talked about by the

consumer.”

For spring ’19, the

company introduced a

collection of shoes made

from 40 to 50% plant-

based polymers, such as

A year and a half ago, OrthoLite

decided to examine the waste it

produced in its factories. The com-

pany makes insoles for more than

500 million pairs of shoes per year,

for brands like Adidas, Timberland

and Danner, and it wanted to find a

use for the excess first- and second-

layer foam and trimmings that

ended up on the production floor.

The company came up with what

it now calls “Hybrid,” an insole

formula that takes this scrap —

ground up at a recycling center the

company built in one of its factories

— and adds it to the existing liquid

mix, boosting the end product’s

recycled content from 5% to 20% at

no additional cost.

The reaction was immediate,

according to Dan Legor, OrthoLite’s

director of marketing.

“Brands were just like, ‘Ok, where

do we sign up?’ Because how often

do you get a new innovation without

it costing more money?”

The company has used recycled

material since it was founded

more than two decades ago, but

now, it said, brands across the

board are looking for ways to join

that conversation.

“Today, companies want to talk

about it, and they want consumers

to be aware, but they don’t want to

be boastful,” Legor said.

Shoppers are increasingly pay-

THEISSUE

Consumers say they want sustainability, but how can outdoor brands sell it? By Hilary George-Parkin

A GREENER PITCH

Vivobarefoot’s Primus Lite II Bio is made with

nearly 30 percent plant-based materials

algae and yellow field corn, and it

plans to integrate the materials even

further in the future. Its target, it

said, is to be 90% sustainable by

2020, and fully sustainable by 2021.

But how do brands actually know

where they stand?

Merrell uses the Higg Index, a

suite of sustainability assessment

tools that’s become increasingly pop-

ular throughout the global fashion

industry, for example. The brand is a

member of the Sustainable Apparel

Coalition, said Merrell chief market-

ing officer Strick Walker, and it uses

the index “to help guide our overall

strategy and product development

decision-making, including which

materials we use and how we’re

thinking about end of use solutions.

“Consumers expect brands to be

transparent and honest,” he said.

“We’re not perfect, but we’re work-

ing hard to be better.”

Despite the widespread discus-

sion around sustainability, there’s

some indication that consumer

interest is still more talk than ac-

tion: A recent survey of 2,000 U.S.

and U.K. consumers by e-commerce

personalization firm Nosto found

that while 52% said they want to see

more sustainable practices from the

fashion industry, less than a third

(29%) would be willing to pay more

for a sustainably-made version of

the same item.

Until this needle starts to shift,

then, it’s on brands to ensure their

eco-friendly products are as appeal-

ing to customers as they are good

for the environment.

Legor said this is a key part of

OrthoLite’s discussions with its part-

ners. “When you step into that shoe,

whether it has 5% recycled content

or 98%, the expectation is it delivers

on that comfort and performance

promise every time.”

“Our new approach is to share what we are doing versus being afraid of not being perfect.” — MAGNUS WEDHAMMAR, SANUK

Sanuk’s new Chiba Journey shoe uses Yulex natural rubber

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THE P OWER OF CONTENT

All Industry Eyes on You

The Tradeshow

Issues

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G O O D T A S T E

The runner is using races to create a tough, but necessary, conversation surrounding indigenous people.By Peter Verry

JORDAN DANIEL

Jordan Daniel organized a Dakota

Access Pipeline protest in 2016

A L L A B O U T A L G A EKeeping sustainability in mind, Bogs is looking for new ways to lessen its impact on the environment. At Outdoor Retailer Summer Market in Denver, the brand will introduce several spring ’20 styles featuring its Bloom removable insoles made with algae. Included in the lineup is the women’s Kicker Loafer ($60), a slip-on look that also boasts Bogs’ water-resistant Neo-Tech stretch inner insulated bootie.

P E R F E C T F I TGarmont is making changes to the fi t of its spring ’20 footwear releases it believes will make North American consumers happy. The line of hiking boots and light hiking shoes is built on a new last shape made to provide a secure heel hold, added midfoot support and room for toes to move naturally. The line consists of the G-Trek lightweight boot ($200), G-Trail over the ankle hiker ($180), 9.81 N Air G light hiker mid ($180) and low ($160) and the non-waterproof Bolt light hiker ($140).

M A D E F O R Y O UTecnica is bringing its atypical thermo-molding system, made to make its footwear fi t like a second skin and match the uniqueness of the user’s feet, to mountain runners. For spring ’20, the brand will introduce the Origin, a high-performance look built to withstand all conditions, equipped with Vibram Megagrip out-soles. Prior to the spring debut, the shoe will soft launch at a handful of specialty outdoor retailers through-out the country in July. The Origin will retail for $170.

After running for the University

of Maine, Jordan Daniel found a

purpose for her sport greater than

competition. Today, she laces up her

New Balance shoes to raise aware-

ness for indigenous people causes,

specifi cally missing and murdered

women. A February report from the

Urban Indian Health Institute stated

there were 5,712 reports of missing

American Indian and Alaska Native

women and girls in 2016, but the U.S.

Department of Justice database only

logged 116 cases. The runner and

activist garnered national attention

during the 2019 Boston Marathon,

where she ran with a red handprint

painted over her mouth and said

a prayer at each of the 26 miles

for a di� erent woman. “I’m trying

to change the narrative of people

thinking we don’t exist anymore,

that we’re not important. We are

still here,” Daniel told FN. “My main

goal is to increase our visibility and

create platforms to have indigenous

voices to be centered and uplifted on

the issues.” Her e� orts have inspired

others to perform similar acts. Ro-

salie Fish, a high school senior from

Muckleshoot Tribal School in Wash-

ington, dedicated her track events to

four women. “I’m hoping this starts

a movement and more runners do

this, especially indigenous athletes,”

Daniel said. As for herself, she plans

to continue to use her platform to

bring awareness to the issue. Her

next race: The Mammoth Half Mara-

thon in California on June 23.

WHAT EMPOWERS ME WHEN RUNNING“Connecting with the land. It helps re-center me when I most need it.”

PEOPLE I LOOK UP TO“My grandfather, Nyal Brings. He’s Sičangu Lakota. And [Olympic gold medalist track and fi eld athlete] Billy Mills. He’s Oglala Lakota.”

NATIVE TRADITIONS I TAKE PART IN“Pow wows home in South Dakota or locally, and learn-ing the Lakota language.”

INDIGENOUS FASHION DESIGNERS I ADMIRE“Bethany Yellowtail, she incorporates indigenous people’s work and provides a place to uplift other indig-enous artists.”

BIGGEST ISSUE INDIGENOUS PEOPLE ARE FACING“We need to be seen, heard and acknowledged. It’s not happening as much as it needs to be.”

HOW SPORT AND FASHION CAN AMPLIFY ACTIVISM“It’s all about representa-tion and visibility.”

New Balance 880v9, one of Daniel’s go-to running shoes

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RIC CABOTDarn Tough Vermont’s president and CEO on the sock brand’s expansion and challenges ahead.By Peter Verry

01 What are the big initiatives for the back half of 2019 and early 2020?“Next month, we’re introducing the updated Light Hiker. Because we o� er an unconditional lifetime guarantee, we’re able to analyze returns and use that data for improvements. We own our mill in Northfi eld, Vermont, which allows us to rapidly prototype and make adjustments. For the new [style], we created 31 prototypes through the course of develop-ment. [And] in early 2020, we will launch our

new athletic line of socks with a collection called the Element that will showcase clean styling in four heights and three colors, while featuring the enhanced performance proper-ties of wool.”

02 How is Darn Tough addressing the issue of sustainability?“We place a high value on [it]. In support of our journey, we just hired our fi rst sustainability manager, Matt Jacobs. He will lead e� orts toward improving sustainable practices across all departments, working internally and externally with customers and suppliers toward future goals, and supporting the brand’s strong focus on community development.”

03 You also hired a chief technology o� cer and human resources director in May. Why werethose important additions?“These new senior positions were created to drive and sustain Darn Tough Vermont’s expansion well into the future. Jim Decker (CTO) was hired as a trusted strategist and technology visionary who brings over 25 years of experience leading technol-ogy systems and teams. John LeBourveau (HR director) will maintain and elevate a culture of purpose and high performance. He also brings over 25 years of experience overseeing human resources for premium, high-growth consumer products brands and social impact-minded companies. As we continue growing and expanding, we’ll be adding key positions throughout all levels and departments.”

04 How will the company’s expansion, which includes a new packaging and distribution building, impact the Northfi eld area?“It is the sock capital of the world. We don’t claim to own Northfi eld. Rather, it has shaped us, helped us rise over our years of growth and we cherish the opportunity to now be in a position to give back to our community. An output of the Vermont state-run Regional Economic Model highlights the e� ects of Darn Tough Vermont’s commitment on Northfi eld. For every employee we hire, we support an incremental 1.18 workers in the area. We are now in three facilities in the

town, which includes a multimillion-dollar renovation of the Nantanna Mill that now houses our fi nishing operation.”

05 Where are Darn Tough’s biggest opportunities and challenges?“We’re continually innovating to make a more comfortable, durable and better fi tting sock. While Darn Tough is best known for hike and lifestyle, we make socks in 10 di� erent categories. We will continue to expand in all, and will be doing so across brick-and-mortar as well as online, both domestically and internationally. [Challenge-wise], we are located in a state that has one of the lowest population growth rates in the nation. As we continue growing double digits while adding capacity to support that growth, we need a quality work force that we can recruit and retain over time.” Cabot expects online and global

expansion to fuel sales growth

Fall '19 women's (L) and men's Light Hiker socks

FN Single/Spead TEMPLATE.indd 1 6/12/19 4:16 PM

01 Smartwool’s PhD outdoor ultra-light style with Indestructawool technology // 02 Wool-blend outdoor quarter sock with cushioned footbed by Weatherproof 03 Wrightsock’s breathable Coolmesh II style for running or light hiking // 04 Wigwam’s unisex running sock with SynchroKnit technology for improved fi t

05 No-show style with AquaFX moisture control from Gold Toe Sport // 06 Vickory wool-blend quarter sock from the Stance Adventure series

Though they’re short on height, this season’s ankle-cut women’s performance

socks come packed with technical features to make the most of every run or hike.

A CUT ABOVE

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The Fox River hiking socks are made with PrimaLoft fi bers for

extra warmth

06

03

S P R I N G T R E N D

01

04

05

SPRINGTREND

01 Däv’s Prague boot with memory foam footbed //02 A two-tone platform style from Tretorn //03 Bernardo’s back-laced boot with matching heel 04 A leopard-print wedge style from Cougar //05 Pendleton Boots’ Navajo-inspired look //06 A classic plaid version by Western Chief

The Guide that cannot be missed.


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IT’S ALL ABOUT

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FN_HAD_VEGAS.indd 2 6/11/19 1:30 PM

3434

VICTORY LAPAlex Morgan jumped into team

member Megan Rapinoe’s arms after scoring her fi fth goal for the

U.S. national team at the Women’s World Cup, wearing Nike Phantom

Venom Elite FG cleats (Rapinoe wore the brand’s Vapor 12 Elite FG style). The Nike-sponsored crew shut out

Thailand, 13-0, on June 11. Their win has since sparked controversy about

how athletes celebrate on the fi eld.

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FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2019 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 75, NO. 12. June 17, 2019. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published twice per month with one additional issue in September by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FN, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FN, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FN, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FN IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANU-SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CON-SIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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baretraps.com | @baretrapsshoes

Untitled-8 1 6/5/19 3:36 PM

We exist to empowerthe human spirit, with every stride, on every run, and in every community.

For more than a century, Saucony has been running for

good performance, good health, and good communities.

Ever since, we’ve been loyal to the sport, building

goodness into every product and inviting millions

around the world to run with us.

Untitled-16 1 6/11/19 8:49 AM

FRONTIER · 17.06.2019 · 42 Victory Lap The women of U.S. soccer celebrated an epic win last...

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