front... · Web viewThe rotor is mounted to a stub shaft that is between the rotor and the actual...

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ENGINE: Front and Timing Cover Disassembly The front cover is held on with two 6x1x32mm bevel headed screws. Disconnect the wiring harness from the alternator (5 wires). You may want to take note of their placement (although, the three like colored wires are interchangeable). The alternator (stator housing) is held on with three 5x0.8x45mm screws.

Transcript of front... · Web viewThe rotor is mounted to a stub shaft that is between the rotor and the actual...

Page 1: front... · Web viewThe rotor is mounted to a stub shaft that is between the rotor and the actual crankshaft. There are threads in the nose of the stub shaft which are used to pull/lift

ENGINE: Front and Timing Cover Disassembly

The front cover is held on with two 6x1x32mm bevel headed screws.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the alternator (5 wires). You may want to take note of their placement (although, the three like colored wires are interchangeable).

The alternator (stator housing) is held on with three 5x0.8x45mm screws.

Use an 8mm hex bit or “Allen” style wrench to remove the special 10x1.50x152mm center bolt that secures the rotor

Page 2: front... · Web viewThe rotor is mounted to a stub shaft that is between the rotor and the actual crankshaft. There are threads in the nose of the stub shaft which are used to pull/lift

ENGINE: Front and Timing Cover Disassembly

The rotor is a taper fit and requires the use of a puller to remove.

The rotor is mounted to a stub shaft that is between the rotor and the actual crankshaft. There are threads in the nose of the stub shaft which are used to pull/lift the rotor off.

Make an insert from a 10x1.50x50mm bolt. The threaded portion can be no longer than 25mm, and the non threaded portion must be turned down thin enough to pass through the threads in the rotor.

Use a hacksaw to slot the end of the insert for a screwdriver. Turn the insert into the rotor until it just passes the rotor threads. Use a second 10x1.50mm bolt of appropriate length to turn into the rotor against the insert and pull/lift the rotor off (a dab of grease on tip of the bolt can help).

Page 3: front... · Web viewThe rotor is mounted to a stub shaft that is between the rotor and the actual crankshaft. There are threads in the nose of the stub shaft which are used to pull/lift

ENGINE: Front and Timing Cover disassembly

Use an extended 5mm hex bit or “Allen” style wrench to remove the nine 6x1x35mm “Allen” screws that secure the timing cover.

Use a 10mm wrench / socket to remove the hidden 6x1x40mm bolt that also secures the cover. The timing cover can now be removed.

With the timing cover removed the starter drive gear, point cam drive gear, starter clutch/gear, timing gears, cam bearing, and cam can all be accessed.

Page 4: front... · Web viewThe rotor is mounted to a stub shaft that is between the rotor and the actual crankshaft. There are threads in the nose of the stub shaft which are used to pull/lift

ENGINE: Front and Timing Cover Disassembly

To disassemble the starter clutch the point cam drive gear must be pulled off the front of the cam. This will require a sturdy puller, in the event that attempts with a puller fail, remove the cam from the engine and use a hydraulic press to push it off.

The starter gear is easily removed by hand, pulling with a clockwise rotation (note some rollers may fall out).

The timing gear is keyed in position onto the cam and is an interference fit. With the starter gear removed you may be able to pry the timing gear off the cam if desirable. If not it may be necessary to remove the cam from the engine case and use a press to get the timing gear off. Check the ramps and rollers for wear, notching, or flat spots, which will cause the starter clutch to slip. While individual parts may be available, replacing the starter clutch as a unit is recommended.