Four Islets Out in the Blue
2
pg 9 6 • f b a y 2011 Ag ios Georgios Also called Kato Horio, or Lower Village Panagia Also called Pano Horio, or Upper Village Livadi Beach Secluded, excellent Livadi Livadi Castle Cave of St. John Aiolos Psarotaverna Akathi Taverna Maistrali Makuba’s Bar and Restaurant Astonishing views on this footpath Hike along road with excellent views—it’s possible at times to hitch or take a bus IRAKLIA Boats arrive at the tiny sheltered har- bor o Agios Georgios. On the hill above town are most room rentals. The sole hotel, the Aiolos, has fine, simply urnished rooms with AC as well as splendid views o nearby islands (22850 71233; doubles, $80–$120). Anna’s Place, just below the hotel, has a variety o spiy rooms around a garden and an outdoor kitchen (2285074234; doubles, $70–$100). The Psarotaverna Akathi, 30 yards rom the beach, serves all sorts o tradi- tional Greek ood (2285071118; entrées, $13–$20). Right behind it, Periyali is a useul general store that sells beach accessories. Find Taver na Maistrali, up the main road, to enjoy both ood and view (2285071807; entrées, $8–$13). Livadi Beach is a mile’s hike rom the harbor. Time your walk to stop or a meal or drink on the terrace o Maku- ba’s Bar and Restaurant (entrées, $8–$13). I you’d like to head arther afield, ride the bus (except on Sun- days) rom Agios Geor- gios to Panagia (Upper Village), a traditional settlement rom which it’s an hour’s hike down a poorly marked trail to the Cave of St. John (Agios Ioannis), hidden in an isolated ravine over the sea. IraklIa Donousa Pano Koufonisi Iraklia Schinousa Kato Koufonisi 3 MILES 0 Boats or the Little Cyclades leave rom 166-square-mile Naxos. Tickets or same-day travel are available at the harbor rom dockside agents—or in- stance, rom Zas Travel, which also details and books erries online at zastravel.com (22850- 23330). Or stay a night at the pleasant Hotel Coronis on the water- ront (2285022297; doubles, $80–$105). The Greek government subsidizes boat ares or small islands, and a ticket on the Express Skopelitis, which serves the Little Cyclades, costs only about $10. Schedules, particularly or hydrooils, are sub- ject to the weather. You’ll need plenty get tIng ther e from na xos T p TT to the ar-fung Little Cyclades is the eaceable exerience o reek island lie as it has existed or centuries. llow lenty o time to travel—your oint o dearture is the nearby islands o either axos or morgos—and be reared to imrovise. The season is May through Setember; weather is hottest in July and u- gust—as are r ices. xcet or ugust, you can usually bargain; consider stated rates as starting rices. Most hotel owners and rorietors o enoikiazomena dhoma- tia (rented rooms) meet erries on arrival and brandish hotos o their lodgings or stand by minibuses with telltale logos. n high season, however, call ahead to reserve rooms. Bring or buy anti-mosquito tablets and their lug-in burn- ers, and a reek-nglish hrase book. amiliarity with the reek alhabet hels with reading signs, which even or hotels (ξeνοδοχeιο) may be in reek. ach island has one or two ublic hones; i they’re not out o order, they take reaid cards (tilekartes). Cell hone recetion is sketchy . part o the charm is the virtual absence o c ars, trucks, and buses. plan hikes or early or late in the day, and stick to aths—o-trail, thorns and shar rocks abound. Minor Cyclades is an unrivaled ma or trails and sights (Skai ma o. 312 rom terrainmas.gr; $16). The many winding lanes not shown on the mas may conuse visitors, as was their intent: They were laid out to thwart invading irates. word about etiq uette. udism is rohibited on town beaches but tolerated on re- moter beaches. n town, even shorts and tank tos may draw disaroving stares. s a guest, you’re exected to oer greet- ings rst— yia sas! is the simlest salutation. Long gone are the days when seaood was chea. The rici- est sh is barbounia (red mullet), at $65 to $90 a kilo. The more aordable kolios (mackerel) runs $22 a kilo. you order a shot o ouzo or rakomelo in a bar, squid and octous mezedhes (hors d’oeuvres) usually come gratis. oat, lamb, and veal (locally raised) also gure rominently on menus. Send a coule o days in thens beore and ater sailing the egean . The ne St. George L ycabettus Hotel sits above thens in the chic Kolonaki neighborhood (210-7290711; doubles, $463–$695). lights to axos can be unreliable because o strong summer winds. erries and hydrooils are the islands’ lielines; check travel times, which vary according to vessel and number o stos, and book assage once in thens. The country code for Greece is 30. Prices quoted are for the 2011 high season. –J. T . four Islets O ut in the blue o euros, and it’s best to get them on Naxos. Most hotels in the Little Cyclades accept credit cards, and there are some ATMs, but not reliable ones. Traveler’s checks must also be exchanged on Naxos; or instance, at Naxos Tours (2285023043). I ound no place to change them in the Little Cyclades. Beach Hotel Restaurant/café Town Sight M a p s b y J o y c e P e n d o l a a n d H a i s a m H u s s e i n
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Transcript of Four Islets Out in the Blue
7/28/2019 Four Islets Out in the Blue
http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/four-islets-out-in-the-blue 1/2
pg 96 • f b a y 2 0 1 1
Agios GeorgiosAlso called Kato Horio,or Lower Village
PanagiaAlso called Pano Horio,or Upper Village
Livadi BeachSecluded, excellent
Livadi
LivadiCastle
Cave of St. John
Aiolos
Psarotaverna Akathi
Taverna Maistrali
Makuba’s Bar and Restaurant
Astonishing views onthis footpath
Hike along road withexcellent views—it’s possibleat times to hitch or take a bus
IRAKLIA
Boats arrive at thetiny sheltered har-
bor o Agios Georgios.On the hill above townare most room rentals.The sole hotel, theAiolos, has fine, simplyurnished rooms withAC as well as splendidviews o nearby islands(2285071233; doubles,
$80–$120).Anna’s
Place, just below thehotel, has a variety ospiy rooms around agarden and an outdoorkitchen (2285074234;doubles, $70–$100).
The PsarotavernaAkathi, 30 yards romthe beach, servesall sorts o tradi-tional Greek ood(2285071118; entrées,$13–$20). Right behindit, Periyali is a useulgeneral store that sellsbeach accessories. FindTaverna Maistrali, up
the main road, to enjoyboth ood and view(2285071807; entrées,$8–$13).
Livadi Beach is amile’s hike rom theharbor. Time your walk to
stop or a meal or drinkon the terrace o Maku-ba’s Bar and Restaurant (entrées, $8–$13).
I you’d like to headarther afield, ride thebus (except on Sun-days) rom Agios Geor-gios to Panagia (UpperVillage), a traditionalsettlement rom which
it’s an hour’s hike downa poorly marked trailto the Cave of St. John (Agios Ioannis), hiddenin an isolated ravineover the sea.
IraklIa
Donousa
Pano Koufonisi
Iraklia
Schinousa
Kato
Koufonisi
3
MILES
0
Boats or the LittleCyclades leave rom166-square-mile Naxos.Tickets or same-daytravel are availableat the harbor romdockside agents—or in-stance, rom Zas Travel,which also details and
books erries online atzastravel.com (22850-23330). Or stay a nightat the pleasant HotelCoronis on the water-ront (2285022297;doubles, $80–$105).The Greek governmentsubsidizes boat aresor small islands, anda ticket on the ExpressSkopelitis, which servesthe Little Cyclades,costs only about $10.Schedules, particularlyor hydrooils, are sub-ject to the weather.
You’ll need plenty
gettIng there from na xos
T p TT to the ar-fung LittleCyclades is the eaceable exerience o reek islandlie as it has existed or centuries. llow lenty o time
to travel—your oint o dearture is the nearby islands o either
axos or morgos—and be reared to imrovise. The season isMay through Setember; weather is hottest in July and u-gust—as are rices. xcet or ugust, you can usually bargain;consider stated rates as starting rices.
Most hotel owners and rorietors o enoikiazomena dhoma-
tia (rented rooms) meet erries on arrival and brandish hotoso their lodgings or stand by minibuses with telltale logos. nhigh season, however, call ahead to reserve rooms.
Bring or buy anti-mosquito tablets and their lug-in burn-ers, and a reek-nglishhrase book. amiliarity withthe reek alhabet hels withreading signs, which even orhotels (ξeνοδοχeιο) may be inreek. ach island has one or
two ublic hones; i they’renot out o order, they takereaid cards (tilekartes). Cellhone recetion is sketchy.
part o the charm is the virtual absence o cars, trucks,and buses. plan hikes or early or late in the day, and stick toaths—o-trail, thorns andshar rocks abound. Minor
Cyclades is an unrivaled maor trails and sights (Skai mao. 312 rom terrainmas.gr;$16). The many winding lanes
not shown on the mas may conuse visitors, as was theirintent: They were laid out tothwart invading irates.
word about etiquette.udism is rohibited on town beaches but tolerated on re-moter beaches. n town, even shorts and tank tos may draw disaroving stares. s a guest, you’re exected to oer greet-ings rst— yia sas! is the simlest salutation.
Long gone are the days when seaood was chea. The rici-est sh is barbounia (red mullet), at $65 to $90 a kilo. The moreaordable kolios (mackerel) runs $22 a kilo. you order a shoto ouzo or rakomelo in a bar, squid and octous mezedhes (horsd’oeuvres) usually come gratis. oat, lamb, and veal (locally
raised) also gure rominently on menus.Send a coule o days in thens beore and ater sailing the egean. The ne St. George Lycabettus Hotel sits above thensin the chic Kolonaki neighborhood (210-7290711; doubles,$463–$695). lights to axos can be unreliable because o strong summer winds. erries and hydrooils are the islands’ lielines;check travel times, which vary according to vessel and numbero stos, and book assage once in thens.
The country code for Greece is 30. Prices quoted are for the
2011 high season. –J. T.
four
IsletsOutin the
blue
o euros, and it’s bestto get them on Naxos.Most hotels in the LittleCyclades accept creditcards, and there aresome ATMs, but notreliable ones. Traveler’s
checks must also beexchanged on Naxos;or instance, at NaxosTours (2285023043).I ound no place tochange them in theLittle Cyclades.
Beach
Hotel
Restaurant/café
Town
Sight M a p s b y J o y c e P e n d o l a a n d H a i s a m H u s s e i n
7/28/2019 Four Islets Out in the Blue
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Stavros
Mersini
Mt. Vardhia
Spring of Mersini
AntonisMarkoulis’s rooms
No sign
Maria Prasinou’s rooms
Kapetan GiorgisTaverna IliovasilemaCafé Skantzokiros
Taverna Tzi-Tzi Town Beach
KedrosBeachHippie beach,very relaxing
Vernacular churchof Agia Sophia
Wildly beautiful scenic route, butvery steep ascent from Stavros; bestto hire a bus or go early in the morning
DONOUSA
Khora
Mersini
Messaria
Fountana Beach
Papa Beach
TsigouriBeach
Bazeou Beach
Grispos Villas
Vegera
Iliovasilema Hotel
Galini PensionFine sea andmountain views
Deli Sweet Bar
Psili BeachRough, dusty road;not advisable tohike in summer
Almyros BeachOccasional gentlesurf, dependingon winds
SCHINOUSA
The swankestplace to stay is the
Aeolos Hotel. On highground over the mainvillage, it has superbair-conditioned rooms,kitchenettes, and satel-lite TV. Breakast—theonly meal—is servedpoolside (2285074206;doubles, $107–$135).Five minutes towardthe sea are the also-decent Atlantida Hotel (2285071691; doubles,$107–$135) and theParadise Resort Hotel
(2285072015; doubles,
$160).At Taverna Rement-
zo, above the harbor,the soutsoukakia (fluy
meatballs) and skordalia (a sort o garlic andmashed potato aioli)were enjoyable and fill-ing (2285074203; en-trées, $9–$13). Orientedtoward seaood-lovinglocal olk, the KapetanNikolas is simpler; flakyand fine melanouri fish(about $20 a serving) isan alternative to priceyred mullet. Accom-pany your waiter to thekitchen, select your fish,and watch him weigh itbeore turning it over tothe che (2285071690;
entrées, $9–$13).For drinks in an ambi-
ence blending ancientand modern Greece, try
Astrolouloudo (22850-74438). The charmingcaé/bar Scholio, down
the street, serves crêpesand ice cream, and isrun by two aable artistswho exhibit their dreamypaintings (2285071837).
Superb isolatedbeaches abound. Fromthe town beach, walkeast along the coastalroad. From Finikasbeach, take the roughtrail up to the mainroad, which leads to thewindswept sands o PoriBeach. The Café Pori sitsjust o the sand.
TheMarigo, an oldcutter, makes several
runs a day rom Khora toPori, with a stop at Fini-kas—convenient whenyou’re done walking(6945042548; round-trip, $7 per person).Or, or hills, hot sun,and gusty winds, renta mountain bike rom Vartan’s, on the Finikasroad (6973211829; $7per person per day).Board the Marigo whenit heads south or KatoKoufonisi (round-trip,$8 per person). At thefirst stop is a caé, whichis a short hike to LakkiBeach. At the second
stop, Nero Beach, you’llfind sea urchins, whichmay be hard to see—wear plastic sandals.
Donousa, arthestrom Naxos,
attracts the ewestvisitors. Boats dock atStavros, which has nohotels. I rented a roomrom Antonis Markoulis (6977462599; doubles,$67), but rooms are alsoavailable rom MariaPrasinou (6936175770;doubles, $55–$82) andthe Taverna Ilio-vasilema, which has asplendid view o the seaand, o course, a res-taurant (2285051570;doubles, $60–$75;entrées, $6–$27).
Dining in Stavrosmeans seaside tavernassuch as Kapetan Gior-gis, just above the cen-
tral erry ticket agency(2285051867; entrées,$6–$12). With its stonewalls, large selectiono liquors, and balcony,Café Skantzokiros, just above the harbor,is a wonderul place toenjoy a drink at sunset(2285051880).
By the jetty, a mapo Donousa (in Greekonly) shows the island’sew sights. At the clean,clear Spring of Mersini, five miles up a steepwinding road rom thetown beach, you’ll findrare shade. You mightdo as I did and hire ataxi or the 20-minuteride up (6972189488;$9). Then stroll back
down, stopping atthe nearby church oAgia Soia, which hasgorgeous views o theAegean.
Above the spring,in Mersini, TavernaTzi-Tzi serves mealsand a large selectiono Greek wines, whichrun about $25 a bottle(6973207569; entrées,$10–$13). The walk backto Stavros, downhillor about an hour, isa cinch. En route isKedros, which has asand beach, a caé,and a rough campsite,and where you can sipa beer and savor theisland’s most laid-backatmosphere.
Donousa
AeolosAstrolouloudo
Scholio
Café/TavernaFilling, inexpensive
food; cold beer
AtlantidaVartan’sbike rental
CaféPori
Paradise Resort Hotel
Taverna Rementzo
Khora
Finikas
Town Beach
Acceptable
Nero Beach
Pori Beach
Excellent
Gala Beach
(”Milk Beach”)
Pori
Fanos
Kapetan Nikolas
Milos Bar
Lakki Beach
Nice and protected
Best cross-islandhiking route
PANO KOUFONISI
KATO KOUFONISI
koufonIsI
Bathers in theknow like this
least-developed o theLittle Cyclades or itsmany sandy beaches,accessible by reason-ably well–signpostedroads and ootpaths.Fountana is an espe-cially nice beach.
Boats pull in at theport o Mersini, beneathKhora, where most
lodgings are ound.The at times chaoti-cally managed Grispos
Villas sits at the edgeo Khora, on a hillsideoverlooking TsigouriBeach, and has clean,well-kept rooms withAC, plus a restaurantwith a stunning view
(2285071930; doubles,$95–$130; hal-boardsupplement, $19). Moreconvenient and betterurnished (thoughwithout a restaurant)is the IliovasilemaHotel, two blocks romKhora’s main street(2285071948; doubles,$60–$75). The tranquilGalini Pension, at thear edge o Khora, has
no air-conditioning, butthe rooms catch thebreezes (2285071983;doubles, $115–$135).The Vegera Restaurant (pronouncedven-GHE-ra) serves heartytraditional dishes. Iyou’re interested inpaidakia (coal-roasted
lamb chops) or certainkinds o fish, stop byin advance to makesure they’re available(2285074225; entrées,$10–$13). The pleas-antly modish Deli SweetBar, with a restauranton the second floor,is my avorite placeor meals and drinks,thanks to its wonderulsea views (2285074278;
entrées, $10–$12).
schInousa
