Footwear Plus | February 2014

VOL. 24 • ISSUE 2 • FEBRUARY 2014 • $10

JOHNSON’S SHOES TURNS 100 • COOL COLLABORATIONS • BOOMER BUYING POWER

Forecast From Calf Hair

to Velvet, the Textures of the Season

Fall

fw_02_14_cover_02.indd 38 1/21/14 3:36 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 18 1/20/14 5:43 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 6 1/18/14 3:30 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 3 1/18/14 3:16 PM

Be� a~Vita®

NEW YORK • LAS VEGAS • ATLANTA • MIAMI • ALL REGIONAL SHOWSFall 2014 - OPEN-STOCK 46 SIZES & 4 WIDTHS

1-800-970-8482

a

Fall 2014

Bella_Vita_FP_FEB.indd 1 1/14/14 12:00 PM

Becoming a costume designer has been my lifelong dream. My Two Ten college scholarship is making that dream a reality.

“ “

Taylor K.Fashion Design Major

$1,789,931

Families provided with emergency utility payments

Two Ten Footwear Foundation. Supporting America’s footwear community since 1939. www.twoten.org

Two Ten Numbersb y t h e

FY 2013

-

Provided to 1,797 footwear families

in need

Provided to 350 scholars

466 $750,000 FOP_Feb2014.indd 20 1/18/14 3:33 PM

INTRODUCING OUR NEW

CIT YSCAPE COLLECTION FOR FALL 2014

HELENACharcoal

OC TAVIA Brand y

EMERYDres s Blue

w w w.ahnu.com info@ahnufoot wear.com

1-80 0 -916 - 6755

VISIT US AT PLATFORM BOOTH #84004

FOP_Feb2014.indd 67 1/21/14 12:59 PM

Miami Airport Convention CenterDoubleTree by Hilton Hotel

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

SMOTA FPLUS Feb-2014issue.pdf 1/9/14 11:27:55 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 14 1/18/14 3:34 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 35 1/20/14 5:07 PM

FOR THE FASHION- CONSCIOUS,UBER TRENDY, URBANOUTDOORSY TYPE.STYLE MEETS SUBSTANCE IN THE WINTERPROOF, COLD-RATED MAPLE CREEK BOOT. A FASHIONABLE NEW ADDITION TO THE COUGAR 2014 COLLECTION.

VISIT US AT FFANY, FEBRUARY , ROOM OR PLATFORM, FEBRUARY , BOOTH CALL 1-888-COUGAR OR VISIT COUGARBOOTS.COM

5-718-20 83052

1324/1325

FOP_Feb2014.indd 16 1/18/14 3:41 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 57 1/20/14 3:39 PM

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

Caroline Diaco Publisher

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor

Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Social Media Editor

Brittany Leitner Assistant Editor

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer

Judy Leand Contributing Editor

ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

Capri Crescio Advertising Manager

Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager

Joel Shupp Circulation Manager

Mike Hoff Digital Director

OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl. New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com

Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 [email protected]

Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

Xen Zapis Chairman

Lee Zapis President

Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer

Debbie Grim Controller

20 Late Boomers Why Baby Boomers are just too good to ignore. By Lyndsay McGregor

22 The Right Stuff Marc Fanning, COO of Consolidated Shoe Company, on how the 116-year-old firm builds partnerships made to last. By Greg Dutter

28 Trend Spotting Moody hues, gritty suede and throwback silhouettes capture fall’s dramatic nature. By Angela Velasquez

48 Turn of the Century Johnson’s Shoes reflects on its 100 years in business with an eye to what the future might bring. By Brittany Leitner

52 The X Factor An influx of design collaborations keep retailers and consumers guessing. By Angela Velasquez

58 Fall Fashion Forecast Four distinct looks captivating fashion. By Angela Velasquez

62 Velvet Underground The uptown material gets a hip makeover. By Angela Velasquez

64 Whisper From elegant to edgy, Fall ’14 reveals the many sides of calf hair. By Angela Velasquez

12 Editor’s Note

14 Scene & Heard

16 This Just In

74 In the Details

76 Shoe Salon

78 E-beat

80 Street

82 Comfort

88 Last Word

On the cover: Cougar pony hair hikers, Southpaw vintage dress, Mawi necklace, tights by Adrienne Vittadini.

This page, from left: Pointed toe flat by Klub Nico, Suno dress, jacket by Jenni Kayne, Adrienne Vittadini tights, hat by August Accessories, Mawi bracelet; Caterpillar pony hair work boot.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss. Stylist: Claudia Talamas; hair and makeup:Sabrina Rowe/Next Artists; model: Adrianna Bach, Fusion Model Management.

FEBRUARY 2014

PA G E

64

FW_02_14_TOC_01.indd 10 1/21/14 6:11 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 33 1/18/14 3:47 PM

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2014

e d i t o r’ s n o t ec a t c h i n g f i r e

e d i t o r’ s n o t e

IT’S OUR FEBRUARY issue and that can only mean one thing: time for our fall prod-uct reaping, where we gather the latest trends for the buying arena (i.e. store shelves). That’s when the real bloodletting begins. In the end, the styles that perform best at sell-through will allow the respective brands and retail-ers to emerge victorious. It’s our industry’s ongoing version of The Hunger Games.

I can’t help noticing parallels between our industry and the hit book and movie series (starring Hollywood’s latest “it” girl, Jennifer Lawrence) that chillingly depicts a dysto-pian society part Brave New World, part Lord of the Flies and a little 1984. First, fashion plays a pivotal role in both. Second, our industry, too, has a kill-or-be-killed ruthlessness. Winners always emerge, but a staggering number of losers fall prey to the fashion industry beast each season. Many never even get onto store shelves to compete in the retail arena. The aisles are littered with casualties by the time the tradeshows close.

The entry round has only gotten more brutal, as a weak economy continues to force retailers and wholesalers to play it safe with conservative designs and established brands. This risk aversion is a growing concern among both retailers and wholesalers. To borrow a few more Hunger Games references, it’s a trend we may all live to Rue. Because our industry is always in need of a Mockingjay—a brand or style that creates the right spark to ignite a revolution in sales. Is there a Katniss Everdeen-like style or brand in the pages of this issue?

Just like the gamemakers in The Hunger Games, we give odds to each style and place bets on which we think will come out on top next fall. There are presumed winners (Careers), dark horses and underdogs, but no guarantees. Expect plenty of surprises and

some devastating disappointments. It’s too bad shoes can’t form alliances to stay alive for as long as possible. Who knows? We have smartphones and increasingly wearable forms of technology. Perhaps one day in the not-too-distant future there will be smart shoes, too—styles that could morph on shelves to take on trending characteristics. We already have shoes that change color in sun-light, so how far a leap is it?

Until then, the battle remains in human hands. It starts with talented designers homing in on the right trends to create shoes consumers will want to buy. Then comes the “prep team” of logis-tics personnel, marketers and salespeople, who make sure these

styles get made properly, priced accord-ingly, ordered by retailers and shipped on time. From there, the retailers step in to merchandise, advertise and sell effec-tively. That’s a whole lot of effort to pique the attention of shoppers. And with so many consumer goods competing for a piece of their discretionary dollar, it’s a wonder any shoe is ever crowned in the greater retail arena.

But, as history has proven repeatedly, we have our share of victors. And we have an eager audience watching. How eager? Consumers shelled out $72 bil-lion on shoes in 2013, according to The Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America’s (FDRA) annual report. While overall units were down, dollar volume

increased, thanks to higher overall price points. Knowing the enor-mous effort involved in making shoes and selling them, I say the price increase is more than deserved. And the $72 billion should give both hope and incentive to all contenders in our industry’s never-ending Hunger Games.

As they say in the book, “May the odds be ever in your favor.”

Happy Hunger Games

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Welcome, welcome…to our semi-annual seasonal preview issue, where the style wars commence once again.

FW_02_14_EdNote_02.indd 12 1/22/14 12:02 PM

Like us on facebook.com/alegriashoes alegriashoes.com

Come see us at:FN/PlatformFeb. 18-20, 2014Las Vegas, NV

South HallThe Atlanta Shoe Market

February 13-15, 2014February 13-15, 2014Atlanta, GA

Booth#: 1552,54,56/1553,55,57

One shoe.Two widths.

FOP_Feb2014.indd 25 1/18/14 3:48 PM


scene and heard¡+¢

ACTRESS AND STYLE icon Sarah Jessica Parker is hitting the road for the launch of her new line, SJP Collection, debuting later this month exclusively at select Nordstrom stores and online at Nordstrom.com. Parker’s first stop on the promotional tour will be her hometown of New York, where Nordstrom will host a pop-up shop from Feb. 28-Mar. 2. After that the former “Sex and the City” star will head to Seattle for an appearance

at the retailer’s national flagship on Mar. 5, followed by stops in Los Angeles, Chicago, Miami and Dallas.

It’s been 10 years since the last episode of the hit HBO series aired, but Parker’s name will be forever synonymous with the shoe-obsessed Carrie Bradshaw who helped make Manolo Blahnik and Jimmy Choo household names. It’s only fitting that the actress has partnered with Manolo Blahnik CEO George Malkemus for her first collection of shoes, handbags and trench coats. Parker has even named a T-strap style after her character. “This endeavor has been a long time coming, but now that the pieces have come together as they have with Nordstrom, George and a collection I’m so very proud of, I believe it was worth the wait,” the actress states. Prices for the Italian-made range of pumps, peep toes, sandals and flats will range from $195 to $485.

scene and heard¡+¢

Medal winners from Team U.S.A.’s Olympic and Paralympic athletes at this month’s Winter Olympics in Sochi, Russia, will hit the podium in style wearing Nike’s Flyknit Trainer Chukka FSB boots.

This winterized ver-sion of the chukka features synthetic wool woven into a one-piece Flyknit upper for lightweight warmth, while reflec-tive laces and over-lays deliver enhanced visibility in low light. Additionally, a rugged Nike Free-inspired outsole in lime green provides an award-winning pop of color.

Patriotic details—some only visible to the athletes—top off the look, including U.S.A. branding on the tongue and “Land of the Free” and “Home of the Brave” embroidered on a stars-and-stripes themed sock liner.

Team U.S.A. Looking ‘Fly’ in Sochi

AFTER TWO YEARS on the side-lines, Adidas is bringing back its iconic Stan Smith sneaker to woo a new generation of consumers. The cult kicks have sold more than 30 million pairs worldwide since ten-

nis superstar Stan Smith first lent his name to the shoe in 1971, and this time around the man himself, now 67, will be on hand to help promote the Spring ’14 re-launch. “Some of Stan Smith’s most remarkable feats as a tennis player happened while wearing his namesake shoe,” notes Kelly Olmstead, U.S. brand director for Adidas Sport Style.

Footwear’s equivalent of a plain white tee, there’s little detail beyond foam padding at the rear to protect the tendon and a row of perforations on the side for ventilation. Adidas has turned to its brand ambassadors to promote the re-launch in an online series titled, “The Return of Stan Smith.” British tennis star Andy Murray and Derrick Rose of the Chicago Bulls are shown talking about their first pairs alongside actor Will Arnett and singer Sky Ferreira. Adidas is also offering fans who tweet an image of them-selves wearing the shoe using the #stansmith hashtag a chance to replace Smith’s trademark tongue graphic on a pair of personal-ized shoes.

Three new heel tabs hit stores in January and, come March, there will be a range of Crayola-bright suede versions in green, red and blue. “A silhouette as simple and beautiful as this just can’t be replicated,” Olmstead says.

Tennis, Everyone

Shoes and the City

Stan Smith and Sky Ferreira

promote the re-launch.

FW_02_S&H_01.indd 14 1/22/14 1:49 PM

SAME SHOED I F F E R E N T S E A S O N

birkenstockusa.com

FN PLATFORM | BOOTH #82602

ATLANTA SHOE MARKET | BOOTH #1429, 1431 & 1433

BUSA_FWPlus_Ad_F2014_1.20.14.indd 1 1/20/14 1:35 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 65 1/20/14 6:04 PM

16

THIS JUST INTHIS JUST INTHIS JUST INTHIS JUST IN

Check, PleaseFrom New York to

Milan, the preppy classic gets a global stamp of approval.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

FW_02_14_This_Just_In_01.indd 16 1/21/14 6:41 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 47 1/18/14 3:49 PM

THIS JUST INTHIS JUST INTHIS JUST INTHIS JUST IN

BackstagePass

Behind the scenes at the Salvatore Ferragamo men’s Fall ’14

runway show in Milan. Photography by Melodie Jeng

FW_02_14_This_Just_In_backstage.indd 18 1/22/14 12:35 PM

More than just great-looking shoes.…

Superior comfort Extended sizes and widths Award-winning displays Stellar customer service Responsible inventory

If this is what you’re looking for, please call (781) 351-1267 to schedule an appointment or stop by and see us at

ATLANTA SHOE MARKET or PLATFORM. www.drydockfootwear.com

FOP_Feb2014.indd 27 1/18/14 3:54 PM


AT 76 MILLION strong, Baby Boomers have shaped this country’s culture for decades. Born between 1946 and 1964, they have reinvented and rede-fined each stage of life they’ve passed through, from young adulthood to careers to parenting to retirement. This year the youngest of the Boomers turn 50, while many of the oldest have already left the workforce. But wheth-er they’re working or retired, wealthy or on a fixed income, living alone or with other seniors, they have taken it upon themselves to stay active and young looking—and they spend plenty of money doing it.

According to the U.S. Consumer Expenditure Survey, boomers outspend other generations by roughly $400 billion a year, forking out for such recre-ational and lifestyle pursuits as traveling, gyms, spas and salons. “Men and women in their 50s and 60s see that there’s a healthier way to live, so they want to look better, they’re exercising, they’re more fit,” says Perry Miroballi, co-owner of Chicago’s Miroballi Shoes.

Not only do Boomers want to look young, they want to dress the part, says Matt Priest, president of the Footwear Distributers and Retailers of America. “These are active people; they don’t view themselves as old or out of step,” he says. Miroballi seconds this: “They see these images out there of actresses and actors they grew up with that are dressing really fashionable and looking really good, and they want to identify with that.”

Yet many boomers find themselves trapped between a rock and a hard

place—desperate to not look like their parents and reluctant to dress like their children. On the shoe side of things, their challenge is to find footwear that is age-appropriate, fashionable and comfortable. “They feel very young and they want their footwear to reflect that, but they also need comfort for their changing feet,” says Jillian Avey, marketing manager for Propét, whose new Rejuve line of biomechanically engineered sandals targets the 40-plus market. “That older consumer is very features and benefits driven. The shoe has to be comfortable, but it doesn’t have to look like a comfort shoe,” echoes David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock USA.

Despite the proven market size and the copious amount of research that shows boomers don’t shop, spend and dress like their predecessors, the seg-ment is still largely ignored. Many marketers continue to focus attention on younger demographics, believing that’s where the growth lies. In fact, 95 percent of marketers’ ad budgets are spent on consumers under age 50, according to the senior marketing firm, Coming of Age. It seems that many businesses have yet to shed the outdated view that the mature market is made up of old fuddy-duddies set in their ways.

But let’s think about that for a minute: Why target a group that is drown-ing in student loan debt, having difficulty starting their careers in a tight job market or are working at entry-level positions and earning entry-level sal-aries? Why not, instead, go after a demographic that is looking to indulge

themselves as opposed to having to raise a family? A demo-graphic that refuses to grow old and has shown to be quite open to new products, brands and technologies. “They’ve moved on from putting their kids through college, from mortgage payments and all the other expenses that go through life before retirement,” Priest says. “And, just like anyone else, they want to buy shoes.”

Try these statistics on for size: In three years nearly half of the country’s adult population will be 50 and older and they will control a full 70 percent of disposable income, according to research firm Nielsen. The median age of an American head of household is now over 50, and house-holds headed by seniors have more than 20 times the net worth of those headed by consumers aged 35 and younger. They are also the only age group in which inflation-adjust-ed income has increased since the 2008 recession began.

There are a few brands waking up to the Boomer mar-ket’s potential. Cole Haan, for example, marked its 85th anniversary with a series of campaign shots of people also born in 1928, including poet and author Dr. Maya Angelou and Apollo 13 astronaut Captain Jim Lovell. Elsewhere, a weathered looking Willie Nelson, 80, was the Fall/Winter 2013 face of John Varvatos’s ad campaign, while L’Oreal has recruited 53-year-old Julianne Moore to promote

S P E C I A LR E P O R T

>84 ILLU

STR

ATI

ON

BY

NA

NC

Y C

AM

PB

ELL

The buying power of aging Americans presents enormous opportunity. Here’s how to go about attracting that Baby Boomer buck.

By Lyndsay McGregor

Late Boomers

fw_02_14_specialreport_01.indd 20 1/22/14 2:23 PM

Fashion Inspires Us

Value Drives Us

rialto A Division of White Mountain

www.rialtoshoes.com

FW14_1026_FP_FebIssue_Outlined.indd 1 1/13/14 4:24 PM FOP_Feb2014.indd 11 1/18/14 3:43 PM


NEARLY ALL WHOLESALERS claim they can do it all, and usu-ally better than anyone else. They believe they possess enough human talent, technical systems, factory operations, established brands and spot-on styles to provide a resource that retailers simply can’t afford to pass up. But nearly all retailers know these claims are not always true. Too often, capabilities are lacking, misses exceed hits and prom-ises end up broken.

That’s why proven results speak volumes. And the longer the legacy of proven results, the louder it speaks. Enter Consolidated Shoe Company of Lynchburg, VA, and its century-plus legacy as a full-service whole-sale partner. It currently features a portfolio of seven women’s brands (Nicole, Madeline, Madeline Girl, Poetic Licence, OTBT, Axxiom and Dimmi) and a substantial first-cost division (Trade Winds). Marc Fanning, COO, credits the longevity primarily to three generations of Carrington family ownership (Billy Carrington is CEO) and a unique blend of strong family values, state-of-the-art customer service and production capabilities. All customers receive equal and individualized attention, whether they’re one-store independents or national chains.

Fanning stresses that each account is a partner of Consolidated Shoes in the truest sense of the word. “We are not just selling them shoes,” he says. “We work with each account closely in order to ship them the right products, at the right time.”

Helping to make those decisions is an executive management team that, in total, possesses 180 years of industry experience. “Down to a single thread or a last shape, we know what we are doing because we have been doing it for so long,” says Fanning, who has more than 30 years of industry experience in retail and wholesale. “We are confident that we can do a good job for anybody.”

Consolidated’s executive team members are all former retailers who made their industry bones managing Kobacker stores. “We have worked together for 25 years and we talk all the time about what we would do as retailers,” Fanning offers. “We are more conscientious about trying to do what’s right for the retailer because we know what it’s like to be on the other end of that phone call.” For example, Fanning’s team understands the impact a wholesaler can have on a retailer if he requests an extension on a delivery or seeks to pass on a price increase. “That’s why we do everything possible to prevent having to make those sort of calls,” Fanning adds.

“We want to get the right shoe at the right quality and at the right price for each store, because if they’re not successful then we’re not going to be successful,” he says. “Our staying power boils down to our ability to work with each customer. More importantly, our wanting to work with them.” The first non-Carrington to run the company’s day-to-day operations, Fanning honors the customer-always-comes-first approach to business. “It’s what the Carringtons have always done and what they have instilled in all of us who work here.” He recalls a red chair that sat in second-generation CEO Dick Carrington’s office and was actually called the hot seat. “I can’t tell you how many times I heard him ask someone sitting in that chair, ‘Did you take the order?’ They’d say, ‘Yes.’ Then he’d say, ‘Then whatever the deal was is the deal you’ve got to live up to.’ There was no swaying from that.”

People who work at Consolidated Shoes tend to stick around. (The average employee tenure ranges from 15 to 20 years.) “Plenty of my customer service reps started around the time I did or before,” notes Fanning, now in his 21st year at the company. It’s a distinct advantage, particularly when dealing with larger accounts where buyer turnover is high. “We know their shoe business more than the buyer does, and that consistency helps our customers,” Fanning says.

While not the largest of corporations, Consolidated Shoes’ rela-

22

CONSOLIDATED SHOE COMPANY HAS A 116-YEAR TRACK RECORD OF SUCCESS. MARC FANNING, COO, DISCUSSES HOW THE FULL-SERVICE

OPERATION BUILDS PARTNERSHIPS THAT ARE MADE TO LAST.

THE RIGHT STUFF

BY GREG DUTTER

FW_02_14_QA_04.indd 22 1/22/14 12:20 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 29 1/18/14 3:54 PM


tively nimble size enables it to react and adapt quickly, which is an increas-ingly attractive quality for buyers who are looking to order closer to season. “We’re different from a lot of competitors, especially the bigger ones. And the smaller ones don’t have the diversity of product that we offer.” Take this past fall, for example. During the sell-in period, the prediction was that short boots would be all the rage, but that turned out to be wrong. Consolidated had the flexibility to adapt in time and still deliver what women really wanted: tall boots. “We basically told our factories to not cut the material,” Fanning explains. “The heel, last, buck-les, straps—they were pretty much okay. Instead of making, say, 6,000 pairs of short boots, we made 2,400 pairs of tall boots.” While it might sound simple, the ability to discover the mistake, make the necessary production shifts and still ship on time is no easy feat. That level of flexi-bility and speed to market is rare.

The need to react and adapt faster is increasing, according to Fanning. It’s a fact of life in a risk-averse retail cli-mate. “Customers just don’t give you that 50,000-pair order upfront anymore,” he says. “They might give an order of 20,000 pairs up front, followed by several 3,600-pair orders and then maybe some 1,800-pair orders. But they are also looking to ramp it down if a style is not performing.”

Today’s market is much more fluid. Each account has its own ebbs and flows. The companies that are able to navigate them successfully stand to gain the most. “Today it’s all about how fast you can react to the latest trend,” Fanning confirms. It makes the business more difficult, he says, but also more fun. “Being able to figure out what a customer needs in time and being able to solve the problem is much more rewarding.”

How would you describe Consolidated Shoes’ niche in the market? We are a women’s fashion house that con-centrates on the upper mid-tier market. Our team shops markets around the world to find the latest information on styles, sil-houettes, materials, ornamentation, etc. to make sure we have the right product at the right time. It’s backed by one of the most sophisticated ordering systems in the industry. Customers can order as small as a 9-pair or 6-pair case that ships out the next day. They can even order a single pair. Our warehouse is com-pletely open stock. People can log on and buy anytime, anywhere. Our ware-house can ship 5,000 pairs at a time up to 25,000 pairs in a week—by style, color and size. Everything is automated, which is a credit to (CEO) Billy Carrington. He saw that coming years ago and reacted. He’s the visionary for our company and is always five steps ahead. The next step is having our salespeople enter orders at a show on their tablets for delivery the next day or in a month. It all relates to our never-ending drive to service our custom-ers as best we can.

Everybody says they do that. But it’s not always the case. To be fair, everybody services their customers to some extent. Otherwise they would never stay in business. I just don’t know how much importance other companies put on customer service. We try to always take it to the next level, and I believe that differentiates us in the marketplace. It’s not easy and it takes time. But everyone is going to have to get there if they want to sur-vive. Take e-commerce, for example. That’s the future. We need to embrace it, which is why we have been developing those systems and capabilities for

years. It’s no longer a competition between tiers; retailers have to be able to sell on all levels. They have to be able to accom-modate however consumers want to buy goods from them. That’s the way I shop. I buy lots of things from Nordstrom, but I haven’t gone into an actual store in ages to do so.

Can independents compete in a mean-ingful way online?I don’t think most independents will invest the money to have a significant e-commerce business of their own, but we can help service them in this arena by having inventory available to them at all times. They can log on and buy anything they want, at any time. We are working on taking that to the next level, where we have tablets in stores so a consumer can order something right on the spot and, if it’s in our warehouse, it’ll be shipped for next-day delivery. In some cases, a retailer may carry five styles from one of our brands and the consumer will see on the tablet that the styles are offered in additional colors. After trying a style on in-store and seeing how it fits, she may decide to go with a color that can be ordered online.

How close are you toward reaching that level of capability?It’s six months to a year away, perhaps. It’s very important because independents are where we do most of our business. That’s why it’s our job to make sure they have capabilities available to them that allow them to compete with the major chains. Another way for them to compete is through product differentiation. Between the breadth of our brands and first-cost

business, we offer that capability. We make sure our seven brands don’t over-lap and we work closely with our retail partners to choose the most suitable mix for that particular store.

I often hear people say it’s becoming less worth the aggravation of work-ing with independents because there are fewer and fewer of them and those that remain represent small volumes. It does require a lot of work. But we are willing and able to make sure what they buy from us is right for them. We do it with all of our customers, regard-less of their size. But we don’t need a $1 million order. Buy three shoes that

O&A

O F F T H E C U F F

What are you reading? Blockbusters by Anita Elberse and King of Maxwell by David Baldacci.

What is inspiring you right now? As always, my son, Spencer.

What famous person in history do you most admire? Walt Disney. He had a vision, turned it into a reality and it became a huge business. And it’s the fun business, which I think we would all like to be in.

What is your motto? Say what you are going to do and do what you say.

Who would be your most coveted dinner guest? Blair Moseley, who was a good friend, a great colleague and a confidante. She passed away from cancer this past year and I would love to be able to sit down and speak with her

again. She worked for our company for 25 years. She ran our operations. She did everything. We called her the Queen of Consolidated.

What is your least favorite word? Unacceptable.

What is your favorite part of the day? Late evening, when the dust has settled and I can plan for the next day. However, in the shoe business, your plan doesn’t always turn out the way you expect. But having one at least gives me a good feeling inside.

What is your favorite hometown memory? I grew up in Toledo, OH, and it’s of being with my family at my grandparents’ lake house.

What sound do you love? A boat coming across a lake in the early morning to break the silence.

FW_02_14_QA_04.indd 24 1/22/14 12:20 PM

sHaRe tHe aDvEnTuReINTRODUCING HYPER GRIP• Micro-glass fi laments provide traction on icy and wet terrains

• Antibacterial lining on footbeds

• Insulated insoles keep feet dry and warm

• Waterproof protection for all seasons

• Partially recycled outsoles

jambu.com©2014 VIDA BRANDS INTERNATIONAL. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

ATLANTA SHOE MART – February 13-25, Booth # 1644FN PLATFORM – February 18-20, Booth # 82817

HYPER GRIP SPORT

WASHINGTON - MEN’S

VISTA - WOMEN’S

ATLANTA SHOE MART – February 13-25, Booth # 1644

HYPER GRIP CITY

CUBE - WOMEN’S

sHaRe tHe aDvEnTuRe

Jambu Footwear Plus February Full Page.indd 2 1/14/14 3:20 PM FOP_Feb2014.indd 39 1/18/14 3:55 PM

we recommend and the next season we’re confident you will want to buy at least five styles because those first three are going to do well. We’re not a small company, but there aren’t a whole bunch of layers that you have to go through to get a decision. Basically, you call me [laughs].

How important are independents to the industry right now?We need those stores. For starters, they don’t come after you for mark-down money at the end of a season. They are also usually great people to work with, really know the shoe business and are an important part of the overall retail landscape. It’s the American way, right? Consumers like par-ticipating in “shop local” campaigns. They want to support their local com-munities. So we want them to be successful for a whole bunch of reasons. Fortunately, for the most part, we do business with ones who have stayed relatively healthy. It is difficult for them to survive, but I don’t think inde-pendents will ever go away entirely. There’s still a healthy array that spans multi-store operations, one-store powerhouses and plenty of boutiques.

I agree. It was Mark Twain who once said, “The report of my death was an exaggeration.”There are plenty of examples where people wrote things off, but they didn’t go away. Take the iPhone. People said no other company is ever going to ever be able sell another type of phone. And then Samsung comes along and proves that theory wrong. I was talking recently with our design team about the online tier and one of them said, “Women are women.” They might not have planned on buying a pair of shoes when they went shop-ping, but often they’ll be in a strip center or a mall, they’ll see an attractive shoe display and they will buy. They still like to see the shoes, touch them, try them on and compare them to other styles. Or maybe they just bought a new outfit and they’ll realize they need a pair of shoes to go with it. My point is that part of the business is still going to be around. Online may take a share of it, especially with regard to men, but for women, shoe shop-ping in stores, I suspect, will remain an enjoyable experience.

Speaking of shoes women like, what are some of your brand highlights?In general, our branded portfolio is lifestyle driven with distinctive inter-pretations of current fashion trends. The styles are also developed to con-nect with consumers beyond the immediate fashionable attraction. They engage consumers on an emotional level and tap into habits, experiences and philosophies that are unique to each individual lifestyle. So for OTBT, what does that mean?OTBT (Off the Beaten Track) is a fashion-casual brand inspired by travel, music and culture. It features high-quality materials and finishes along with comfort technologies. It launched four years ago as a replacement to our Palladium brand, which we sold to K•Swiss. That’s been a good deci-sion for us, as OTBT features a much broader assortment of styles. Last year, in particular, was a good year for OTBT ($89 to $199 retail). Sales increased by about 20 percent.

What’s Poetic Licence’s niche in the market?Poetic Licence is a United Kingdom-designed dress shoe brand for women who want to show an individual sense of style. The brand’s personality is offbeat, distinctive and exclusive. It perpetuates creativity in a world of conformity. The shoes ($79 to $159 retail) often feature lot of different materials in one style—say, polka dots mixed with stripes. It’s like a mate-rial factory blew up sometimes. The sales have been strong. Macy’s Herald Square, for example, has been reordering frequently.

O&A

GRANADABordeaux

SINTRARock

SEVILLABlack

Earthies® Footwear (earthbrands.com) is a trademark of Meynard Designs, Inc. licensed to Earth, Inc. (Waltham, MA). © 2014 Earth, Inc.

Atlanta Shoe Market | February 13-15 | Cobb Galleria Center | Booth #1645-1647

FN Platform | February 18-20 | Las Vegas Convention Center | Booth #82610

see the fall /winter 2014 collection from earthies !®

FW_02_14_QA_04.indd 26 1/22/14 12:19 PM

Nicole and Madeline are Consolidated’s portfolio veterans. What do they bring to the mix? Nicole started it all for us. It’s a tailored brand ($49 to $149 retail) that offers effortless versatility for women on the go. The designs are chic yet extremely wearable. It features plenty of rich leathers and classic designs with a twist for shoes that are relaxed yet sophisticated. Madeline, on the other hand, is a fearless collection of couture footwear that bridges the gap between high style and affordability ($32 to $79 retail). The brand, which has been around for 20 years, delivers up-to-the-minute, trendy designs at an attain-able price. It’s carried in a lot of fashion boutiques. Madeline Girl is junior takedowns of that.

Which leaves Axxiom and Dimmi.Axxiom is our price point ($32 to $79 retail) comfort casual brand. And Dimmi, our newest brand ($39 to $59 retail), is based on a unique charita-ble premise. Billy Carrington’s brother passed away a few years back from ALS (amyotrophic lateral sclerosis) disease. Initially, we started a website called Dimmi (it means “tell me” in Italian) that was designed to be a social networking community for people suffering from a variety of diseases. The site would allow those afflicted and their family and friends to communicate with one another about treatments and coping. Unfortunately, it didn’t take off, but the ALS cause is still important to the Carringtons, so we decided to launch a shoe brand under the Dimmi name, where all of the profits would go to support medical research. The first donation will go to ALS most likely, but going forward donations will be made to help fight a variety of diseases.

How’s it going so far?This fall will be our third season, but it’s really more of a re-launch. Our ini-tial collection was okay, but we upgraded the quality and have a nice line

now. It includes a mix of canvas casuals where it’s all about the fun and bright prints with plenty of material treatments like satins and sequins.

The challenge lies in convincing retailers and consumers that it’s legit. There are plenty of false charitable tie-ins as a ruse to get sales.Oh, for sure. I even went as far as setting up a separate company with sepa-rate accounting for Dimmi so that anyone who wants to take a look can see it’s legit. The brand slogan is “100 percent good.” It’s not really about the shoes, although the stores must make their margins. It’s really about trying to do some good for people in need. Fortunately, we happen to be pretty good at making shoes and consumers will have the added benefit of feeling good that their purchase is contributing to a good cause. That’s why it’s important to get the message of Dimmi’s charitable platform across first, which is one of our main initiatives this year. We have a website that tells the story. We made some videos about ALS. But we really need to get Dimmi into chains like Shoe Carnival, Kohl’s and Rack Room in order to get the necessary volume on the patterns and units so we can then offer it to better-grade indepen-dents as well. We have been doing business with these chains, in some cases, for as long as 50 years. If we tell them we are going to make these donations they believe us, which gives them confidence in telling their customers that we will. Beyond that, if we put this message in a Dimmi ad, we’d better damn well do it because our whole business could go under if we are dishonest.

You’ve been in the business for 32 years. Is it easier or harder today?Oh, it’s definitely harder. Of course, we laugh about how 20 years ago we thought life was miserable. But we would take those days in a heartbeat right now.

What was so miserable back then?Pretty much the same things as today [laughs]. Prices are too high, >86

Jazlyn

Rhapsody

Art That Will Inspire You!

Open Stock | In-Stock

Atlanta Shoe MRKT Feb. 13 - Feb. 15

Cobb Galleria CentreAtlanta, GA

Booth #1504-1510

Magic FN PlatformFeb. 18 - Feb. 20

Las Vegas Conv.Center, South HallLas Vegas, NV

FAMEFeb. 23 - Feb. 25

Javits CenterNew York, NY800.962.0030 | www.springfootwear.comyoutube.com/SpringFootwear facebook.com/SpringStepShoes

Come and Visit Us at These Upcoming Shows!

Quality Painted Leathers, Unique Detailing and 100%

Hand-Made Artistic Designs.

FW_02_14_QA_04.indd 27 1/22/14 12:19 PM


S P O T T I N GT R E N D

PH

OTO

GR

AP

HY

BY

TIM

JO

NE

S

1

2

3

4

5

1. Palmroth Original 2. Penny Loves Kenny 3. Vogue 4. La Canadienne 5. Tsubo

Witch’s BrewBewitching black patent casts a magical spell.

FW_02_14_trendspotting_02.indd 28 1/21/14 5:30 PM

2014 february • footwearplusmagazine.com 29


1

2

3

Penny WiseThe classic cuts a sharper look with slender

profiles and sleek materials.1. Nicole 2. Dune London 3. Nina




1

2

3

4

1. Golo 2. Nina 3. Matt Bernson 4. White Mountain

Chain Reaction

The edgy embellishment

transforms basics to statement makers.


C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

CCILU_footwearplus.pdf 1 17/1/14 7:40 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 45 1/18/14 3:57 PM



1

2

3

Open for BusinessD’Orsay heels add a one-two punch of style.

1. Elliot Lucca 2. Mia 3. Poetic Licence


FOR THE FASHION- CONSCIOUS,UBER TRENDY, URBANOUTDOORSY TYPE.STYLE MEETS SUBSTANCE IN THE WINTERPROOF, COLD-RATED MAPLE CREEK BOOT. A FASHIONABLE NEW ADDITION TO THE COUGAR 2014 COLLECTION.

VISIT US AT FFANY, FEBRUARY , ROOM OR PLATFORM, FEBRUARY , BOOTH CALL 1-888-COUGAR OR VISIT COUGARBOOTS.COM

5-718-20 83052

1324/1325

FOP_Feb2014.indd 17 1/18/14 3:58 PM


S P O T T I N GT R E N D 1

2

3

6

5

4

1. Restricted 2. Wolverine 1883 3. Lacoste 4. Elliot Lucca 5. Alegria 6. Melissa

Night FallNavy and black make a moody

and dark impression.


D E S I G N E D W I T H Y O U R L I F E I N M I N D

T H E D R E S S C O M F O R T C O L L E C T I O N

Dress comfortably. Dress stylishly. ECCO’s Dress

Comfort Collection spans a range of fashionable

and elegant styles characterized by lightness,

flexibility and walkability to enhance your everyday.

See our new AW14 Collection and visit ECCO

at The Atlanta Shoe Market (Booth 1249) and

at FNPlatform (Booth 82325).

eccousa.com

FOP_Feb2014.indd 55 1/20/14 2:11 PM



1. Klub Nico 2. Mia 3. Nicole

1

2

3

Sling ShotsVelvety suedes and chunky heels winterize

peep toe sling backs.


Be� a~Vita®

NEW YORK • LAS VEGAS • ATLANTA • MIAMI • ALL REGIONAL SHOWSFall 2014 - OPEN-STOCK 46 SIZES & 4 WIDTHS

1-800-970-8482

aFa

ll 2014

Bella_Vita_FP_FEB.indd 1 1/14/14 12:00 PM

Becoming a costume designer has been my lifelong dream. My Two Ten college scholarship is making that dream a reality.

“ “

Taylor K.Fashion Design Major

$1,789,931

Families provided with emergency utility payments

Two Ten Footwear Foundation. Supporting America’s footwear community since 1939. www.twoten.org

Two Ten Numbersb y t h e

FY 2013

-

Provided to 1,797 footwear families

in need

Provided to 350 scholars

466 $750,000 FOP_Feb2014.indd 21 1/18/14 3:59 PM



1

2

3

4

Going Dutch Old world charm meets modern comfort

with a new class of clogs.1. Dansko 2. Alegria 3. Cliffs by White Mountain 4. Rialto


FOP_Feb2014.indd 49 1/18/14 4:02 PM



1. Kamik 2. Rockport 3. Palladium 4. Aigle 5. Moon Boot

Coat CheckOuterwear materials put a protective and

techy spin on boots.

1

3

4

5

2


Ahoy, matey!We’re going overboard for adventure!

The USRA May EventMay 4-6, 2014 Red Rock Resort Las Vegas

hosted by

One Industry. One Goal. One Place.

Yo ho! Treasure awaits. So swash buckle your shoes and prepare to board. Rum runs, booty, and smooth sailing ahead! N Keynote Speakers, Panels & WorkshopsN Continuing Education Points for CPEDsN Order DiscountsN Golf TournamentN Hotel & Meals includedN Industry NetworkingN Jolly Roger Buccaneer Blast!

Arrrrr! You in? Aye, our crew needs all hands on deck!Call or email the USRA office for Membership info or a May Event package.Phone: (818) 703-6062 Email: [email protected] www.usraonline.org

Thar she blows!

Heave ho

Blimey!Ahoy, matey

Red Rock Casino • Resort • Spawww.redrock.sclv.com

For he’s a Jolly Roger good fellow, USRA honorsCap’n Gary Champion,Earth Inc.2014 USRA Industry Icon

FOP_Feb2014.indd 19 1/18/14 4:00 PM



1

2

3

4

4

1. Vogue 2. Sorel 3. Bass 4. Very Volatile

Gold StandardsThe rich metallic raises the bar for glam style.


Rugged sensibility, a clever silhouette and go-with-everything color combos inspired

by the City of Goodwill.

Seattle

See these and more at FFANY Rm 1352 ~ Atlanta Show Market 1629 ~ FN PLATFORM ~ Project

Call (740) 753-9100 ext. 2656 for an appointmentDBRD111, DCRD115, DCRD113, DCRD116, DCRD114.

Large photo: DCRD117

FOP_Feb2014.indd 5 1/18/14 3:17 PM



1

2

3

4

1. Earthies 2. White Mountain 3. Taos 4. Golo

Slick DealsOiled suede adds a gritty and

work-inspired vibe to earth tones.


Introducing fall ’14. From sculpted heels and wedges

to low profi le fl ats and boots, there’s a Dansko for

everyone. Cra� ed in rich leathers and nubucks,

every style delivers the Dansko all-day comfort and

support your customers love. So, stock up on our

full line of fl ats, heels, wedges, boots and of course

clogs, all new for fall ’14.

Stop by FN Platform Booth #82315or contact your Dansko Rep

Dansko, Dansko and the Wing Design, and the Wing Design are all trademarks of Dansko, LLC. © 2013 Dansko, LLC. 1.800.326.7564.

Introducing fall ’14. From sculpted heels and wedges

to low profi le fl ats and boots, there’s a Dansko for

everyone. Cra� ed in rich leathers and nubucks,

every style delivers the Dansko all-day comfort and

support your customers love. So, stock up on our

full line of fl ats, heels, wedges, boots and of course

clogs, all new for fall ’14.

FOP_Feb2014.indd 43 1/18/14 4:03 PM



3

2

1

1. Pura Lopez 2. Rialto 3. Restricted

Hello KittyGlossy patents and ladylike bows

elevate the retro powerhouse.


Cla

rks

and

the

Cla

rks

logo

are

regi

ster

ed tr

adem

arks

of C

& J

Cla

rk In

tern

atio

nal L

imite

d.

Fall Shoe Collection come visit us at FN PLATFORM Booth 84600

FOP_Feb2014.indd 13 1/18/14 4:06 PM


NE HUNDRED YEARS ago, Babe Ruth made his major league debut with the Boston Red Sox, Henry Ford jumpstarted the Industrial Revolution by launching his $5-a-day production line and Louie Johnson opened his own cobbler shop. Although these events have little in common aside from the year they happened (1914), each is uniquely American. Ruth went on to become a baseball Hall of Famer, solidifying the sport as “America’s pastime.” The Ford Model T revolutionized society by putting millions of Americans in the driver’s seat. And Johnson’s Shoes—a family-owned business that began in Orland, CA—carved out a unique place in footwear retailing history.

Still family-owned and operated, the thriving five-store comfort chain in many ways epitomizes the American dream. Johnson’s weathered some formidable storms and setbacks: The Great Depression, World War II, the Great Recession, and the rise of malls, discounters, big-box formats and the Internet. Boom and bust growth cycles nearly spelled doom in the early ’90s, but the company kept its doors open. Sure, the format and the number of stores varied (it peaked at 50 about 25 years ago), but what business hasn’t?

Current president and third generation shoe man Don Johnson should know. He has spent his entire career—40-plus years—working in the fam-ily business alongside his grandfather, father, aunts and uncles. He is now

TURN OF THE CENTURYMARKING ITS 100TH

ANNIVERSARY, JOHNSON’S SHOES LOOKS BACK ON

GENERATIONS OF FAMILY DEDICATION THAT HAS

ENABLED THE CALIFORNIA-BASED COMFORT CHAIN

TO SURVIVE AND THRIVE, OVERCOMING NUMEROUS

CHALLENGES ALONG THE WAY. BY BRITTANY LEITNER

Ofw_02_14_retail_profile_01n.indd 48 1/21/14 2:26 PM


watching with pride as the fourth generation of Johnsons (his daughter Valerie and nephew Ben) learn the trade. One day, either may take over the reins.

As a newly minted college graduate and aspiring accountant, Johnson never planned on a lifetime in the family business when he joined in 1969. But, “you come to know where your place is,” he reflects. “As a result of my grandfather, father, uncles and aunts who worked in our stores, I came to value a family business and the area where we lived. I thought it was my destiny.” Today, Johnson runs the stores along with his two younger broth-ers, Marty and Scott. The Johnson family, he says, extends to all the chain’s employees. The feeling seems to be mutual, given that the stores’ manag-ers and full-time employees have been with the company on average more than 10 years.

The chain’s current comfort format is right in step with its family-values approach to business, according to Johnson. “We’re buying the bread-and-butter footwear for Middle America,” he says. “Our shoes have moderate fashion appeal, but we mainly focus on comfort, durability and fit.” The chain caters primarily to a rural, agricultural-based demograph-ic that seeks versatile footwear to meet the needs of their active lives. Johnson’s shoes have to work for customers, many of whom travel miles to reach its stores, located in northern California’s Chico (two locations), Redding and Susanville as well as Medford, OR.

While key brands include SAS, Dansko, Ugg, Keen, Clarks and Merrell, the chain is always on the lookout for new ones to add to its mix. In the last year, for example, Johnson’s added Alegria and Cobb Hill, and sales for both have taken off. “You need to take risks,” Johnson says of his shoe-buying philosophy. “But they need to be carefully eval-uated risks. We choose what we think our customers would like based upon listening, reading, watching and looking at things going on in the market.” From there, he says, they “build on it or get out of it. [We] try it on and then manage that inventory as soon as it comes in.”

Johnson developed his current approach to inventory manage-ment in 1991, following a visit from a consultant. “The consultant said, ‘Those aren’t shoes on the wall, those are dollar bills. They need to be in circulation; don’t just let them sit there.’” He immediately went

to work adjusting inventory methods, adapting to the system known as FIFO (first in, first out). “We would stamp the arrival date on each shoe box,” he says. “After three months, we would go through the wall and decide to put on clearance anything that had been there longer than that. We remembered to always watch our dates and get rid of them to get dol-lars back.” He adds, “Stamping the date and clearing out slow movers was the biggest and best business lesson I ever learned.”

EARLY DAYSOne needs to go back to 1909 to trace the real roots of Johnson’s Shoes. That’s the year Louie Johnson Sr. came to Ellis Island from Sweden at age 14 to join his sister in St. Joseph, MO. His brother-in-law worked as a cobbler and Johnson went to work helping him

at his shop, where he learned the ins and outs of making and repairing shoes. When Johnson fell ill, his older brother, who was living in Orland, CA, thought the warmer weather would be good for his health. Soon after arriving in the Golden State, the two brothers opened Orland Shoe Shop (years later the name changed to Johnson’s Shoes), a shoe repair shop with the motto, “Work done while you wait.”

The shop got by during the Depression, partly kept afloat by the Works Progress Administration (WPA) under President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal. During World War II, Johnson’s Shoes repaired footwear for the U.S. government. When Johnson’s son, Louie Johnson Jr., returned home safely from the war, he went to work with his father and the business was renamed Johnson and Son. During the same time period, the shop began selling nascent brands such as Red Wing.

Louie Johnson Sr. worked six days a week until he was 81 years old and he retired in 1976. “I was able to work with him daily for about seven years,” Johnson says. Louie Johnson Jr. had the same fierce work ethic. Though he retired officially in 1991, he remains involved with the stores.

With Louie Johnson Jr. front and center, three generations of Johnsons pose for a family portrait, including Don Johnson (front left).

Johnson’s Shoes, circa 1924.

fw_02_14_retail_profile_01n.indd 49 1/21/14 2:26 PM

Throughout its existence, Johnson’s Shoes has faced challenges. Today, they include high rents, increased competition and finding trustworthy employees. But none compare to the epic woe the business faced in the early ’90s. Don Johnson had just become president and the chain was at its peak, with 50 stores, including an array of family-named outlets, concept stores and athletic shoe stores. The business had mushroomed into a corporation, employing more than 200 people and profiting annually in the millions of dollars. Johnson prided himself on expansion and was constantly explor-ing ways to grow the business. That is until one day, the bank called about a loan that needed to be repaid. Johnson had two options: repay the loan or file for bankruptcy.

“We were in a tailspin,” he remembers. The loan was too high to pay off at once, but Johnson couldn’t fathom the idea of filing for bankruptcy. “I

remember going to see an IRS agent and as they were interviewing and vid-eotaping me, the agent said he’d like to speak with me privately,” Johnson recalls. “He said, ‘If you just file for bankruptcy, this will all go away.’ And I said, ‘That’s just not a word in our vocabulary. We believe we’ll be able to pay off our bills and that’s what we’re going to do.’”

Johnson’s frankness must have resonated with the officer, and togeth-er they came up with a solution. Instead of paying back the allotted $5,000 per month, Johnson convinced the agent to let him pay $1,000 a month. He promised to close some stores to avoid giving up on the business entirely. “I’ll take the blame personally,” Johnson says in hindsight. “I had a desire to get big, but my reach extended beyond our grasp. But, boy, did I learn about financial management. In the end, we worked through it.”

From 1991 to 2001, Johnson’s Shoes survived by selling assets, invento-ry and closing most of its stores. The family paid off its debts and rebuilt the business with a new comfort format in mind. They also learned to keep it simple. Johnson returned to the lessons his grandfather and father had taught him about running a successful business. “We now live by three basic retail laws,” he says. “Quality product, affordable price and caring service. If someone is unhappy or unable to find what they want, don’t react. Act. And always respond with care, first.”

NEXT CENTURYToday, Johnson and his team focus on the future as well as the pres-ent—determining how to adapt to changing times and capitalize on the opportunities they may offer. For now, that means emphasizing the brick-and-mortar locations rather than delving into e-commerce. Setting up a meaningful e-commerce operation would require too heavy an investment in salary and inventory, he explains. “The way I see it, we’ve got plenty to do in our stores already to jump into online sales. Plenty of people still like to try shoes on and walk around in them before they buy,” he says. “And we’re here seven days a week, all year long to help them with any problems they might have.” The company enjoyed a six percent profit increase in 2013—a success he attributes to having the right selection, the right price and caring custom-er service. He also credits 2013’s jump in profits to “freshness and rotation in our inventory management due to a consistent and professional selling team.” A weekly performance summary and periodic special incentives help employees stay motivated throughout the year. “We send out a daily sales report of how associates are doing compared to last year and we note the highest dollar and the top five highest sales of the day,” Johnson explains, adding that associates are rewarded with cash awards, discounts for friends and family and purchase perks at wholesale price points. He’s quick to add that sales reports are meant to be a friendly recognition, not a critique.

2014 is expected to be a good year sales-wise, but Johnson admits, “Things aren’t as strong as they were in 2010 or 2011. Independents are going to have a rough time.” He cites rising unemployment and lower regional incomes as factors that are putting a drag on sales. He has instructed his team to try to maximize sales among customers who come in to shop. “Our people are all trained in product knowledge and salesmanship, and that’s all we can ask for,” he says.

To mark the centennial milestone, Johnson’s Shoes is planning new advertising initiatives and a rewards program to bolster customer loyal-ty by rewarding shoppers with half off their seventh pair purchased. Four years ago, the store began advertising on TV, and a special 100th anniversa-ry commercial has already hit the air. Johnson says TV advertising is one of his strongest forms of customer acquisition.

“We’re going to celebrate our anniversary in a way to hopefully sell shoes and not glorify ourselves,” Johnson says. “We want to use our 100th year as a reason for new people to come in and take a look as well as affirm with exist-ing customers that we’re here and we intend to stay here.” •

Three Johnson’s Shoes stores are located in bustling shopping centers, including this one in Redding, CA.

its what you make it

Come and visit us at South Hall, Las Vegas Convention Center Booth #82752 February 18-20For more [email protected] bedroomathleticsusa.com

British loungewear brand BEDROOM ATHLETICS makes it’s debut in AmericaThis innovative company has reinvented indoor footwear bringing the ultimate in comfort and style for anyone who wants to look on trend while lounging around in their lazy pants!

Come & visiT us

Booth# 82752

fw_02_14_retail_profile_01n.indd 50 1/21/14 2:26 PM

Earth® Footwear (earthbrands.com) is a trademark of Meynard Designs, Inc. licensed to Earth, Inc. (Waltham, MA). © 2014 Earth, Inc.

Come and see the Fall/Winter 2014 collection from Earth Footwear!Atlanta Shoe Market | February 13-15 | Cobb Galleria Center | Booth #1645-1647

FN Platform | February 18-20 | Las Vegas Convention Center | Booth #82610

NorwayAlmond

CypressForest Green

LarchBordeaux


WHY CREATING BUZZWORTHY, BARRIER-BREAKING COLLABORATIONS

IS ALL THE RAGE.

FAC TO R

T H E

FW_02_14_collab_feature_01.indd 52 1/22/14 12:06 PM


MAYBE IT’S THE eclectic nature of fashion or, more accurately, the lack of an “it” brand or style driving the market of late. Or maybe it’s the weak economy, which keeps consum-ers from shopping with wild abandon. Or perhaps it’s the result of too many products with too little differentiation to excite shop-pers in stores or on the Internet. Wherever the blame for today’s general malaise lies, the mer-chandise mix needs spicing up. Enter, prod-uct collaborations. Be they with a retailer, a fashion designer, a lifestyle guru or even one very friendly kitty, collaborations can provide an effective way to generate new interest in a brand and entice buyers.

Think of them as design steroids. Collabo-rations give a loafer, sneaker, boot or other ubiquitous style a fashion boost and pump up sales. That’s especially true when the collabo-ration involves a one-time or limited-edition run or exclusive distribution. Take the Pony x Colette collaboration, which debuted this past December. In the midst of its re-launch, Pony chose the concept store in Paris—known for bringing together innovators in fashion, art and technology—as the ideal partner to reintro-duce itself as a casual athletic brand. Santino LoConte, vice president and chief market-ing officer of Contest Footwear, the licensee of Pony, says the French retailer gravitated toward its heritage styles like the Topstar. But what really made the retro style shine was Colette’s signature Pantone sapphire blue (code 293, to be exact) done up in Pony’s reflective 3M material. It transformed the Topstar into a sneaker that literally glowed in the store’s win-dow. Paired with spotted laces—a reference to Colette’s logo—the collaboration was a blend of classic New York street fashion and fear-less Parisian design that had stateside fash-ion hounds and sneakerheads begging their Parisian friends to score them a pair of the cov-eted kicks. The style sold out in a week.

“News of these collaborations goes viral. They create a tremendous amount of buzz,” says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst of the retail tracking firm NPD Group. He adds that in today’s difficult retail climate a collab-oration is a lot less risky than trying to estab-lish a brand or line extension. Not to mention, a whole lot quicker and cheaper. “If I were to try and establish a new brand it would take at least three years to make any relevant con-

nection with the consumer,” Cohen says. “Collaborations let you leapfrog that.”

These partnerships not only excite a brand’s existing fan base, they can also attract poten-tial new consumers. It helps to partner with established brands in other fields, notes Andy Salzer, vice president of partnerships for Toms. “When we come together with another brand, we are always looking for leaders in their own respective fields,” Salzer says. That’s why Toms joined forces with designer Tabitha Simmons. The unlikely blend of casual street style and high-end fashion generated the most buzz Toms has seen to date, Salzer reports. “We were able to introduce the partnership to a handful of specialty distributors like Net-a-Porter and Colette,” he adds.

Clarks Originals has used numerous collabo-rations to generate excitement in the venerable brand, founded in 1825. “The basis of our col-laborations has been to link an era of our his-tory with the things that we know our different customers love now,” explains Rachael Davies, line builder for Clarks. Collaborations range from working with Woolrich and its legion of Americana fans to celebrating the Wallabee’s popularity in the hip hop scene through the Doom x Clarks Originals collaboration, debut-ing next month. “We’re always thinking of the next way to transform our image,” she adds.

To succeed, collaborations have to make sense for a brand’s image and its fan base, says Isack Fadlon, co-owner of Sportie LA. Ideas that might make a good blog entry don’t always ring the cash register. For example, if a collab-orator is the wrong fit or, worse, outshines the brand’s regular collection, the partnership can backfire. “There has to be a balance,” Fadlon notes. “Done right, it creates desirability and draws that consumer to look at the rest of the brand’s collection.” The trick, he says, is find-ing the right balance between brand and store or collaborator. For instance, this year Sportie LA will debut collaborations with Keds and Crocs. Both speak directly to the brand’s casual, SoCal clientele, with palm tree prints and sunsets motifs on the styles. “These col-laborations are a way for us to distinguish our own brand, enhance the product mix and ulti-mately create a buzz around the store and brand,” Fadlon says.

The Sportie LA partnership comes on the heels of a Crocs collaboration with The

From top: Minnetonka moc from the Hello Kitty collection; Jeffrey Campbell vegan-friendly bootie for Convert; Sportie LA’s sneaker with Keds.



Tannery’s sneaker boutique offshoot, Concepts, featuring a men’s camouflage print boat shoe. “It was an understand-able silhouette,” explains Bill Lucas, Crocs’ national sales manager, noting that the style generated a lot of interest on footwear and style blogs. “People were surprised to learn it was Crocs. It got a lot of attention and got people talking about the brand again. It helped break us out of the mold that people have pigeonholed us into,” he says.

As for the Sportie LA partnership, Lucas describes it as the perfect laidback coun-terpart to Concepts’ fashion-forward influ-ence. “It’s totally Californian,” he says. “We like that we’re covering both coasts and getting a great scope of personal-ity and input to the shoes.” These part-nerships allow Crocs to experiment with new designs, technology and even packag-ing. But Lucas stresses that the real benefit of working so closely with retailers is the insight they bring to the mix. “It’s invalu-able,” he says. “They see a lot of people come through their doors and it’s great to be that close to what’s happening at their end of the table.”

Another example of a retail-brand col-laboration that hit the mark is Jeffrey Campbell for Convert, the eco-friendly store owned by Randy Brewer. Hitting upon an underserved vegan community seeking stylish, non-leather options, the duo have partnered successfully for the past eight years. “It was actually Jeffrey who saw the void,” Brewer says, not-ing that Campbell’s revamped bestsellers don’t demand the high minimums that his own line would require. “The only draw-back is that once a style sells out—as they often do—it takes a long time to get back into it. It’s a three-month wait and people don’t want to wait that long for a style that is trendy now,” he explains. Still, it hasn’t stopped the retailer from collaborating with other brands, including J Shoes and Seychelles. As Brewer puts it, “There are worse problems to be had.”

The right collaboration can even test higher price points, though NPD’s Cohen cautions that most companies don’t make huge amounts of money through partner-

ships. Collaborations are less about dollar volume than about boosting awareness and brand equity, he says.

Perhaps the best example of a company that delves deeply into a range of collabo-rations is Sanrio, licensor of the Hello Kitty brand. Its list includes Vans, Asics and Dr. Martens. David Marchi, senior direc-tor of brand management and marketing, describes the partnerships as “unique, fun and appealing to a wide range of groups.” To that end, Hello Kitty went punk last December in a co-branded collaboration with T.U.K., known for its creeper shoes. The limited-edition collection combined T.U.K.’s classic Mondo Sole with pastel ombré Hello Kitty prints, red bow patches and heart-shaped D-rings. The launch received an unexpected perk when singer Miley Cyrus wore the distinctive shoes on a slew of broadcasts. Debuting this month is a Hello Kitty collaboration with Minnetonka. The women’s and girls’ range will feature kiltie moccasins and fringe boots bedecked with Hello Kitty’s face and signature bow. “Parents who grew up wear-ing Minnetonka or Hello Kitty decades ago are now sharing that brand love with their own children,” says Kalyn Waters, direc-tor of marketing for Minnetonka. “Both brands generate a feeling of nostalgia as well as contemporary relevance.”

Industry experts predict the collabora-tion movement will gain steam. “It won’t fizzle out any time soon,” Cohen says. “The opportunity to mix brands with outside personalities and other interests catches people’s attention.” It might be Vans speak-ing to animal lovers with an ASPCA col-laboration, or Naturalizer linking with popular HGTV host David Bromstad for a line of colorful casual styles. The bottom line, Cohen says, is making a lifestyle con-nection. When a brand creates something that resonates with the consumer on a per-sonal level, it works.

Beyond that, the most successful col-laborations occur when two partners com-bine their creative talents to produce a true blend that enhances both of their images. The following are some noteworthy collab-orations for 2014.

CLARKS ORIGINALS’ LATEST collaboration with Patternity, the London-based creative con-sultancy and pattern research hub, arose from their mutual appreciation for pioneering design. Despite having no defined target customer, the desert boots in tan and black with a lacquered geometric pattern are getting a warm response from buyers for their uniqueness.

Davies says collaborations don’t always need an obvious hook. An unexpected twist can work just as well because it creates an element of dis-covery for consumers. “The collaboration has been unique because it’s so unusual,” she says, noting it will continue for Fall ’14. “There’s been a lot of opportunity to talk to a new retail base and get them interested in both Clarks and Patternity,” she adds.

Patternity’s enthusiasm for fashion and treat-ment of patterns not just as a design element but as a part of everyday life appealed to Clarks, says Davies. What’s more, “They are at the fore-front of global trends,” she says. Companies like Apple, Nike, Selfridges and the BBC have col-laborated or consulted with the collective.

CLARKS ORIGINALS

PATTERNITY

“THE OPPORTUNITY TO MIX BRANDS WITH OUTSIDE PERSONALITIES AND OTHER

INTERESTS CATCHES PEOPLE’S ATTENTION.”— MARSHAL COHEN, CHIEF INDUSTRY ANALYST, NPD GROUP


FOP_Feb2014.indd 51 1/21/14 2:45 PM


A MERGING OF like-minded her-itage brands can create magic, as Dr. Scholl’s discovered by collaborat-ing with American fashion design-er Steven Alan. “The collaboration came together during a dinner con-versation between Steven and I,” recalls James Sowins, Dr. Scholl’s creative director. “We were discuss-ing how our lines were evolving. It was a very natural next step to do something together, as we share a similar design sensibility.”

Retailing for $100 to $145, the collaboration, which hits stores this spring, includes three women’s styles: a version of the Dr. Scholl’s Original Exercise sandal with a lacquer wood finish, a chambray ankle strap sandal and a wood and linen wedge. All are classic materi-als in line with Alan’s collection of American sportswear—but with a

modern twist. The collaboration also marks

the first time Dr. Scholl’s is intro-ducing an exercise sandal for men, which Sowins admits was a chal-lenge to create. By combining forc-es, they were able to turn a shoe with the qualities of an icon-ic women’s style into a masculine, functional sandal.

A shared love for beautiful, high-quality materials and sim-plicity with function has created remarkable synergy, says Sowins. “The Steven Alan customer shares a lot of the same sensibilities as the Dr. Scholl’s consumer, but with a boutique and elevated taste level,” he says. The collaboration has cre-ated considerable buzz at Steven Alan stores and key retailers that carry the label. The partnership will continue into Fall ’14.

WOLVERINE BOASTS A rich 130-year tradition of boot mak-ing, predominantly in men’s styles. So when the company’s bou-tique heritage offshoot label, Wolverine 1000 Mile, decided it was time to embrace its feminine side, it sought designer Samantha Pleet for a collaborative project that launched two falls ago. The New York-based women’s designer is known for dreamy frocks and separates tinged with vintage sweetness and cool indie spirit.

A granddaughter of a cobbler, Pleet has brought her recipe of vintage-meets-modern to Wolverine’s workroom, hand-drawing designs that showcase the brand’s softer side. In keeping with the company’s long heritage, the Wolverine 1000 Mile by Samantha Pleet collaboration is meant to last. “For us, it’s not just a one-time conversation. It is several seasons now, and we see that our customers are interested in what comes next and the evolution of the collaboration,” notes Christina Vernon, sales manager for Wolverine Heritage.

For Fall ’14, Pleet delivers an inventive take on camouflage and an equestrian-inspired buckle boot, and revisits key styles like the Bonnie boot in new colors and materials. “Samantha brings a whole different fashion thought process,” Vernon says. “She goes into our archive and does a lot of things we wouldn’t have done on our own. She brings color and material options that add a lot of pop to our shoes, which appeals to the collaboration’s core cus-tomers. They want to stand out and be more creative.”

What’s more, Pleet’s touch has helped open doors. “She creates a lot of buzz with her apparel, and retailers that carry her line were immediately able to see why the footwear would make sense for their stores. It’s a natural fit,” Vernon explains. Consistent sell-through and a natural progression of styles doesn’t hurt either. Another key to the collaboration’s success is that designs reflect the Wolverine 1000 Mile range. With styles harking back to rugged women explorers and others inspired by American summers on the boardwalk, the collaboration is in step with Wolverine’s pioneering ethos. “The collaborated styles are never out of our comfort zone,” Vernon notes. “In fact, they merchan-dise nicely together on the same table.”

WOLVERINE 1000 MILE

SAMANTHA

PLEETHAVING BEEN A blank can-vas for the likes of designer Tabitha Simmons and actress Charlize Theron, this month Toms’ Classic slip-on gets a collaboration make-over by interior designer Jonathan Adler. (The two created sparks last summer with a trio of Independence Day-inspired sunglasses.)

The collaboration launches later this month on JonathanAdler.com, Toms.com and exclusive-ly at Nordstrom. It includes five Adler archival mid-century mod-ern-inspired prints on the Classic—the style the designer was adamant

about using. It makes a splashy impression with prints like the tiki-infused Syrie and the multicolored Honeycomb, which are patterns and names well known among the interior design crowd. “You see them and you immediately think Jonathan Adler,” Salzer says.

Adler’s recent foray into lifestyle products at mainstream stores (dinnerware at Macy’s, scarves at Bloomingdale’s and diaper bags at Target) should broaden consum-er appeal of the collaboration (sug-gested retail is $59) beyond the world of interior decorating.

TOMS JONATHAN ADLER

DR. SCHOLL’S STEVEN ALAN


FOP_Feb2014.indd 63 1/20/14 5:57 PM

58

THE FALLFORECAST

FOLKLORIC FANTASYEnchanted forests. Wicked queens. Bohemian fashion turns to dark, lux-urious styles tinged with materials inspired by mythical creatures and ornamentation originating mainly from Eastern Europe. With the world’s attention turned to Russia and the 2014 Winter Olympics this month, the emphasis on Eastern Europe is evident in men’s and women’s col-lections. And what’s a Russian-inspired trend without an abundance of fur? “Fur trim is emerging in men’s more than ever before,” reports Savannah Todd of the trend forecasting firm Stylesight. “Shoes might be lined with shearling and tipped off with fur, or feature an entire fur cuff,” she notes. Fendi even blanketed its men’s Fall ’14 runway with black longhair goat fur, a stunt that undoubtedly caught the attention of ani-mal rights groups.

Calf hair and velvet play a strong role here, too, especially in jewel tones. “We’re seeing a lot of wine and reddish hues with purple under-

tones,” Todd says. Combined with these textural materials, the col-ors take on subtle, wet sheens. Tapestry and brocade-inspired

prints add a regal vintage look to uppers and accent pieces, picking up where last year’s printed pant trend left off. In terms of apparel, the folkloric look ushers in

longer, more flowing dress and skirt silhouettes, which demand sleeker footwear like tall boots that sit closer to the

leg. “The slim fit goes well with billowing skirts. They bal-ance the portions,” Todd says. Look for more tradi-

tional takes on shoes with longer lasts, pointed toes and slim heels. The casual/street iteration of the trend caters to a more

traditional bohemian customer. Think earthy textures from the wild, such as yarn uppers with frayed, hair-like fibers.

Boots with sweater knits heavy and chunky enough to com-bat a Russian winter add a cozy element. Shades of brown with

warm undertones of cinnamon, chestnut and camel pair effort-lessly with homey materials on leather uppers and braided details. Oiled suede offers a grittier alternative.

SPORT UPOn the rise for several seasons, designer athletic fashion will continue to score big this fall with an emphasis on technology and futuristic-looking materials. Most recently, Karl Lagerfeld accessorized models dressed in Chanel haute couture frocks with sneakers and metallic knee pads. “Sporty looks are coming on in a very big way. It’s a blending of high and low,” Todd explains, noting that Prada also recently revealed gem-encrusted uppers on an athletic sole. A number of designers are following suit, combining luxury materials and exotics with vulcanized, easy on and off styles harking back to Van’s Classic slip-on.

As fall’s most colorful trend, the look borrows hues of cobalt blue, sun-kissed orange, golden yellow and lime green from the athletic world. The hues are notably deeper than the neon shades of recent sea-sons, yet contrast nicely with steely gray, black and white when color blocked—one of the trend’s key design elements. Fabrics like nylon mesh, perforated leather and jersey evoke a familiar sporty vibe, while unexpected materials including Neoprene and PVC soak up the colors

TigerBear Republik

The intermingling worlds of fashion and footwear combine for one decadent and inspiring season. By Angela Velasquez

WELCOME TO THE Fall ’14 buying season. Prepare to be inundated with boot heights that fluctuate like the stock mar-ket. Expect an onslaught of prints from the animal kingdom (pick an animal, any animal). But don’t panic. Thinking posi-tive is on trend, too. This fall offers something for everyone, no matter how traditional or extreme your tastes may be.

Wondering where to start? Here’s a look at the season’s hottest silhouettes, materials, colors and embellishments, broken into four distinct themes.

Rich fabrics add textural interest.

Hi-tec materials and holograms elevate sporty styles.

Bronx

fashion.feature.indd 58 1/22/14 2:12 PM

easy street ®

NEW YORK • LAS VEGAS • ATLANTA • MIAMI • ALL REGIONAL SHOWS1-800-826-6430

OPEN-STOCK 43 SIZES & 4 WIDTHS

we make it easy!

FALL 2014

EASY STREET

EASY STREET

EASYEASYEASYEASYEASYEASY STREET

EASYEASYEASY STREET

EASYEASY STREET

STREET STREET STREET

EASY STREET

EASY STREET

EASY STREET

EASY STREET STREET

EASY STREET

EASYEASYEASYEASY STREET

EASYEASYEASY STREET

EASY STREET STREET STREET

EASY STREET

EASY STREET

EASYEASYEASY STREET

EASY STREET

EASY STREET

EASYEASYEASY STREET

EASYEASY STREET

EASY

EasyStreet_FW_Plus_FEB.indd 1 1/14/14 12:05 PM FOP_Feb2014.indd 23 1/18/14 4:14 PM


and add a futuristic twist. With prod-ucts like Nike’s sleek FuelBand SE fit-ness tracker creating buzz and Google Glass hitting the market in 2014, foot-wear fashion is just one aspect of a gravitational pull to all things techy.

The loudest take on tech-chic includes bold uppers featuring foil-like metallic silver and gold and hologram materials. Hi-top sneakers and boots are amped up to shine with reflec-tive material, thick quilting and chunky white lug soles. Down- and polyester-filled nylon—reminiscent of a puffer coat—add lightweight bulk to foot-wear as cuff embellishments. Brands like white-hot label Birkenstock (and copycats) will pick up on the trend with updated versions of the traditional comfort sandal. “Some might be in a traditional execution, but others will use all-over color metallics,” Todd adds.

BOUDOIR BOOMBlame it on the bestselling book Fifty Shades of Grey. Slinky, sultry bou-doir fashion is turning heads this sea-son with sinfully soft fabrics with comfortably generous cuts, thanks to designers’ very literal take on pajama dressing. Fashionistas Jessica Alba, Salma Hayek and Rihanna are already walking the red carpet in coordinat-ing pajama separates and robe-inspired jackets. Translating bedroom fashion into street and evening apparel may not be anything new—slip dresses get resurrected every few years—but the latest look takes cues from menswear, with tie prints, dark hues and hand-some silks running rampant.

Expect to see similar materials in women’s footwear. Tie prints top off women’s oxfords, penny loafers and flats (look for more almond-shaped toes) lending shine to everyday silhou-ettes, as do jacquards, diamond pat-terns and opulent brocades. Satin ribbons replace traditional shoelaces and velvet doubles as a bow embellish-ment and the go-to material for men’s loafers. Tying the look together is a soft palette of dusty rose, powder blue, gray and deeper tones like oxblood and navy. Men’s tailoring (think dark pinstripe wools and tweeds) grounds the look, while a touch of calf hair and exposed fur softens it.

The boudoir trend also heralds

the return of the single sole pump. The slender silhouette lengthens the leg, lends a touch of old Hollywood glamour to the season and balances ’50s-inspired oversized coats, boxy blouses, pajama-style pant legs and trending pencil skirts. After prowl-ing through collections for a num-ber of seasons, kitten heels are finally taking center stage this fall in nude shades (Grace Kelly’s shoe of choice in To Catch a Thief) and glossy patents, accented with ladylike bows.

MARCHING ORDERSThe rebellious, unruly beat of grunge, punk and rock fashion goes on for Fall ’14. From aggressive combat boots to traditional tartan loafers to hybrids of the two (lugged sole loafers, anyone?), the look spans a variety of men’s and women’s categories.

Look for an abundance of plaid, tar-tan and buffalo check in stores for Fall ’14. Unfussy, embellishment-free tra-ditional silhouettes like Chelsea boots and loafers give the prints breathing room. Todd expects loafers to become a “complete women’s staple,” especially those with lifted soles and stacked heels. Penny loafers and oxfords with tapered toes in moody oxblood, navy and black leather as well as calf hair merchandise well with the look. Bolder styles might feature adaptations of leopard print and houndstooth in non-traditional colors like cobalt blue and royal purple.

With the long, drawn-out demise of stud embellishments (they’ve been whittled down to flat nail heads this fall), designers are hedging bets on statement-making closures. Side-zippers, echoing modified motorcycle jackets and vests, double as function and fashion elements, especially when the zipper is a brassy gold. Sometimes the closure is pure embellishment with no function at all like zipper teeth used as an edgy focal point or trim, for instance. Oversized and multiple buck-les inch their way up men’s and wom-en’s boots, or act as a prim and proper toe ornament on work-friendly flats and pumps. Finally, chain details speak to customers on both ends of the spec-trum, assuming a luxe look on ward-robe staples and lending a militant feel to combat boots. •

Cleaned up punk looks strike a chord.

Fall ‘14 casts the return of old Hollywood glamour.

Jon Josef

Cat

Grace KellyRita Hayworth

fashion.feature.indd 60 1/22/14 2:12 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 41 1/18/14 4:15 PM

Opposite: Lacoste hi-top

This page: 1. Restricted wedge

2. Melissa loafer 3. Oxford by Nina

4. Jon Josef embellished

smoking slipper 5. Hush Puppies

ballet flat 6. Bobs by

Skechers slip-on 7. TigerBear

Republik platform wedge

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

velvet.indd 62 1/22/14 2:58 PM

63

velvet

underground

The uptown material gets a downtown makeover with pavement-pounding silhouettes.

BY ANGELA VELASQUEZ

velvet.indd 63 1/22/14 2:57 PM

64 64

pony_01.indd 64 1/22/14 4:42 PM

Topshop button-down blouse and earrings, Preen skirt, tights by Adrienne Vittadini.

Opposite, from left: Zipper boot by Yosi Samra, Clarks Originals desert boot.

pony_01.indd 65 1/22/14 4:42 PM

pony_01.indd 66 1/22/14 4:42 PM

6767

Dennis Comeau stacked heel loafer.

Opposite: Maje dress, Topshop earrings, sunglasses by Karen Walker.

pony_01.indd 67 1/22/14 4:43 PM

68 68

pony_01.indd 68 1/22/14 4:43 PM

Pointed toe flat by Klub Nico, Suno dress, jacket by Jenni Kayne, Adrienne Vittadini tights, Mawi bracelet, hat by August Accessories.

Opposite, from top: Dansko slip-on, camouflage print T-strap heel by Trask, Blondo boot with side zipper.

pony_01.indd 69 1/22/14 4:43 PM

pony_01.indd 70 1/22/14 4:44 PM

7 1

Western-inspired camouflage print boot by Nina.

Opposite, from top: Lola Cruz single sole pump, printed pump by Nicole.

7 1

pony_01.indd 71 1/22/14 4:44 PM

72

pony_01.indd 72 1/22/14 4:44 PM

73

Bella Vita oxford, Matt Bernson shoetie.

Opposite: Pointed toe ankle boot by Dune London, Karen Walker top and dress, tights by Adrienne Vittadini, vintage bangles from Southpaw.

Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez; Stylist: Claudia Talamas; hair and makeup: Sabrina Rowe/Next Artists; model: Adrianna Bach, Fusion Model Management.

pony_01.indd 73 1/22/14 4:44 PM


PH

OTO

GR

AP

HY

BY

TIM

JO

NE

S

Alegria

Klub Nico

I N T H E D E T A I L S

Meet the New BossEmbossed macabre embellishments

reveal fall fashion’s darker side.

fw_02_14_in_the_details_01.indd 74 1/21/14 4:20 PM

Miami Airport Convention CenterDoubleTree by Hilton Hotel

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

SMOTA FPLUS Feb-2014issue.pdf 1/9/14 11:27:55 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 15 1/18/14 4:16 PM


E D I T O R ’ S P I C K S

ED

ITO

R’S

PIC

KS

PH

OTO

GR

AP

HY

BY

TIM

JO

NE

S

D E S I G N E R C H AT : Sarah Flint

FOR A YOUNG cosmo-politan woman with a taste for elegant lines and luxury products, it may come as a surprise to learn that the focal point in Sarah Flint’s Manhattan apartment is a table with two massive industrial sewing machines, where the designer churns out the prototypes for her namesake footwear col-lection. What Flint lacks

in interior decorating, she more than makes up for in her attention to shoe fit, quality and crafts-manship. Since launching in Fall ’13, the Parsons and FIT graduate, who honed her patternmak-ing skills at Milan’s Ars Sutoria and worked for Diane von Furstenberg and Proenza Schouler, has impressed sophisticates with her patternmaking and draping skills, including her signature ori-gami-inspired leatherwork.

“Understanding how shoes are made, start to finish, is a big part of how I design,” she says, crediting her Italian training. “But what I really fell in love with is the emotional connection Italians have with what they are making. It’s a generational industry that’s handed down and everyone in the factory, no matter at what stage, is so passionate.”

That undulated joy for footwear (which Flint says she absorbed like a sponge), coupled with Japanese aesthetic influences, a love for 1940s fashion and whirl of other inspirations made for an exciting debut collection. It spanned boots to flats that were full of unexpected details, like back-lacing, keyholes and toe ornaments. Likewise, the Fall ’14 collection’s rich sunset-

inspired color palette and textural combina-tions like calf hair and nappa were spurred on by a recent trip to Africa where Flint was drawn to new materials. The designer plans to take a dress-ier stance with more evening silhouettes. “I like to think I’m offering timeless, elegance from a young voice,” Flint says. —Angela Velasquez

What is your first footwear memory? I have a lot of them because I was always trying to leave the house in inappropriate shoes, like my patent leather tap shoes. They were so shiny and pretty. What is your design signature? I like to focus on fit, shape of the last, construction and integrity of the materials and let that dictate design. Who is your fashion icon? My grandmother, Joan Flint. Since I was a little girl she lived in Paris as a painter and sculptor. I loved to visit because she’d bring me to museums and ateliers, which was always a highlight. Which celebrity would you love to see in one of your designs? Kate Middleton would be the ulti-mate for me and a lot of other designers, I’m sure. I love her classic, effortless style, and she seems to be very comfortable in her own skin.What is your pet peeve? When I see women wearing shoes where the heel tip has become worn down and the leather begins to tear. I’m like, ‘Your beautiful shoes are being destroyed!’ I also don’t like when I see women wearing shoes they can’t walk in. Heels are supposed to make you feel poised.What is your motto? Taste over trend. I say pick what you love and what makes you feel comfort-able and confident. What is your favorite part of your job? Seeing designs come to life from a pattern to a proto-type. That’s always an exciting day. And traveling back and forth to Italy is a nice perk!

The Old Soul

Side cut-out details show a little skin.

Short Cuts

Restricted

Yosi Samra

Dansko

Matt Bernson

FW_02_14_Shoe_Salon_01.indd 76 1/22/14 12:11 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 69 1/21/14 3:19 PM


THINK PINTEREST IS just another time-suck? Think again. The social media scrapbook site is a potential gold mine for retailers. Since its launch three years ago, it has become the third most popular social net-work in America and its conversion rates (turning “pins” into purchases) have quickly outpaced those of Twitter and Facebook. Pinterest offers a visually, aesthetically pleasing user experience that, when coupled with the right product imagery, can provide a sizeable return. Oh, and it’s free.

“Consumers are using Pinterest to efficiently browse the web, go through a curated collection of products and create shopping lists,” says Sharad Verma, CEO and co-founder of Piqora, a visual marketing suite for Internet-based networks such as Pinterest, Instagram and Tumblr. “They’re spending time on Pinterest in order to figure out what to buy. That’s not the usual behavior on any other social network.”

These statistics bode well for Pinterest: 21 percent of adults who are online use Pinterest, spending on average 89 minutes a month on the site. A recent Shopify survey reveals that people redirected to a retail-er’s e-commerce site from Pinterest are 10 percent more likely to make a purchase. And according to a recent study by Piqora, the average value of a pin is about 78 cents and while it may not sound like much, pins have a much better chance of driving future sales than more short-lived social media posts. When a pin is popular, it continues to get discovered and chances are that means it’s something worth buying.

“Pinterest is the only social network that is driving meaningful amounts of traffic because it is fundamentally about product,” Verma says. To this end, most retailers using Pinterest focus on a relatively nar-row basket of goods. Nordstrom, for example, focuses on shoes and handbags, and uses data gleaned from its 4 million-plus followers to flag its most popular items in its stores. Meanwhile the Awesome Shop sec-tion on Target.com is basically a modified Pinterest page featuring items that have the highest number of recent pins and the top reviews.

For those interested in Pinterest, Verma advises to maintain a balance between product and lifestyle content, pin at least 30 times a day to keep boards active and followers engaged, and run promotions and contests to gain more followers. In addition, ensure your site is primed for pinning with shareable visual content. “That will organically cause followers to pin, which will direct new traffic back to your site,” Verma notes. “It cre-ates a viral loop that keeps on growing.” —Lyndsay McGregor

Pin and WinPinterest, the social media scrapbook site,

turns pins into purchases.

E-beat

WHEN SHOEBUY LAUNCHED in January 2000, the idea behind the site was sim-ple: attract customers, take orders and have the shoemak-ers ship the product. Since then the Boston-based e-tailer has expanded beyond shoes to offer clothing, bags and accessories to men, women and kids. Today the site’s selection is massive (more than 1,250 brands), spanning Skechers and Sperry Top-Sider to Merrell and Minnetonka, and a new name enters the mix almost every day.

“We have millions of unique visitors to the site on a monthly basis and consumers rely on us to deliver a great selection from all of our brands,” says EVP and Chief Merchandising Officer Trisha Sweeney, who’s seen every-thing from skyscraping stilettos to shaping and toning footwear come and go in her eight years at Shoebuy. With more than 26 years of buying experience under her belt (her background includes stints at Hills, Value City and TJX Companies) Sweeney pretty much has seen it all—again and again. “A good buyer will cer-tainly ride on the coat tails of a strong trend, but the key to suc-cess is knowing when to opt out of it,” she offers. —L.M.

Is there anything unique about the Shoebuy customer? Our cus-tomer is a very loyal shopper—two-thirds of our revenue is gen-erated from repeat business. We’ve got that fashion savvy consumer and we also have that consumer that wants a little more comfort in a shoe or who’s looking for some-thing for the outdoors.

What are Shoebuy’s key trends for Fall ’14? Houndstooth, grunge-inspired plaid and calf hair, which seems to be replacing animal print for the young consumer.

What will be some of the key col-ors for next fall? We’re seeing a lot of shades from the green family, like olive, as well as some inks and denim blues.

What about silhouettes? All kinds of short booties, from ankle to pointy toe to cutout. Also, smoking slippers and classic driving mocs.

How important are boots to your overall mix? Boots are a very a large category for us and we had a strong 2013. Although the short bootie is hot, we still have a penchant for tall boots and we are always in the game for win-ter boots.

Are you keeping an eye out for anything unique this show sea-son? We see growth in our hand-bag and apparel business, so we’re definitely focused on finding new brands to add to these categories.

Any trends that you wish would disappear? There’s not one thing in particular that we’re hoping will disappear. Watching trends come and go is really the fun part of being in retail. For example, who knew the wedge sneaker was going to be so big?

BUYER CHAT

Trisha SweeneyShoebuy

Connecting the dots:

Nordstrom alerts

in-store shoppers to styles that are popular

on its Pinterest

page.

FW_02_14_ebeat_01.indd 78 1/22/14 11:59 AM

SHOW TIME! Kirstin Deutelmoser, GDS Director, discusses the upcoming show and the shift to earlier dates starting next July. What’s on tap for the

upcoming GDS show?This March (12-14) it’ll be business as usual. More than 800 exhibitors from more than 30 countries will be showcasing the entire spectrum of footwear styles for the Autumn/Winter 2014/15 season. In addition, there will be daily fashion shows, events and supporting programs, which are always essential components of GDS. A highlight will be the 20th anniversary of Design

Attack, a segment that features an array of up-and-coming brands and designers. This show’s theme is “Alpen Rocker Stadl,” which will be a combination of Bavarian lifestyle, idyllic alpine scenery and rebel rockers on roaring motorbikes.

Why the shift to earlier dates following this edition of GDS?To continue as the industry’s No. 1 trade fair, we decided to change our basic character and become the

global destination for shoes and accessories at a very early stage of the season. (July 30 – Aug. 1, 2014 and Feb. 4 - 6, 2015.) GDS will serve as the kick-off event for exhibitors. It will also enable retailers to obtain crucial guidance as they make their seasonal buying plans.

It’s a bold step.Yes. But it comes after extensive surveys and discussions with our exhibitors, retail attendees and the press about their expectations of GDS and how the show can be improved. In addition to the earlier dates, that means a more international focus as well as a wider range of products from accessory brands, including bags, belts, scarves and hats.

Anything else new we expect to see? The city of Düsseldorf, a German fashion capital, will serve as an additional communication platform during the shows. Düsseldorf will become the shoe and accessories city. Retailers will host special events that will also attract consumers.

www.gds-online.comfre

e ad

miss

ion

•�urban�authentic: cult-status

heritage brands

•�urban�fresh: popular,

mainstream fashion, lifestyle

and urban fashion brands

�•�urban�active: brands blending

utility with design

�•�design�attack: design

newcomers with lifestyle

products and collections

�•�white�cubes: progressive

high-fashion labels

�•�upper�style: established high-

quality brands

�•�prime²: established high-

quality brands for men’s

shoes

�•�superior: medium-priced

international fashion

collections

�•�essential: mainstream-

fashion quality brands

�•�kidwalk: children’s shoe

brands

�•�shop�&�deco: shop fitting

and furnishing products

GDS offers unique

segments across women’s,

men’s and children’s shoes,

bags and accessories.

FOP_Feb2014.indd 1 1/18/14 3:15 PM


SNAKESKIN, HAND BRAIDING and burnished leathers might sound like the uniform of a cowboy, but when factored into Leon Max footwear, the details lend a bit of an edge to the chic high heels, boots and flats in the women’s collection. The brand is an extension of Max Studio, which launched in 1976 by Russian designer Leon Max, and has been in the experimental phase over the past few years. Fall ’14 marks its official launch into footwear. “With the success of the clothing collection and its steady evolution since its launch in 2008, the time had come for an accessory component of the line,” says Karen Baker, president of the footwear division at Leon Max, Inc. Baker joined the company in August, following a 12-year run at Jimlar Corporation where she was a national account executive for its Coach license.

Leon Max might also be called the high-end, sophisticated sister to Max Studio, which represents more casual looks. Baker says the higher price point (wholesale prices range from $100 to $200) gives the designer a chance to experiment with high-quality materials like suede, sheepskin and soft leather. “The shoes are designed with a big picture in mind rather than revised or reshaped from existing footwear collections,” she says. Details like unusual, curved heel shapes, cut outs and tapered square toes have gained attention from retailers who, Baker says, “noted that the line looks very fresh and different from the offerings in the market today.”

Baker also cites charcoal gray and merlot colors as trending palettes that will make an appearance in the Leon Max collection for fall. Designed in both Los Angeles and England, the label aspires to evoke a mix of Hollywood glamour and traditional British style for a look that spans a variety of occasions. “Leon Max has created a lifestyle brand in apparel that spans from career wear for day into black tie for evening, to country casual, sportswear and outerwear,” Baker offers. “With each change of direction in a woman’s wardrobe, she needs a different shoe.” —Brittany Leitner

ACROSS THE POND, Dune London has been topping off looks for fashion-minded lads and lasses with its accessories spanning handbags and sunglasses to scarves and footwear for more than 20 years. The brand, established in 1992 by Daniel Rubin, is known for providing high-fashion looks at affordable prices, and this spring marks its entrance into the U.S. footwear market.

“With our rapid expansion over the last three years around the world, we felt the timing was right for the introduction of our brand to the U.S.,” says Richard Kelsey, U.S. wholesale president for Dune London. Currently, Dune London has more than 220 stores located in fashion capitals around the world and is also sold in leading department stores like Belk, Nordstrom and Lord & Taylor where, Kelsey notes, it’s “one of the highest performing brands.”

The Fall ’14 collection taps into key trends like tapered lasts, pops of color on piping for men’s styles and pointed toe boots and booties for women in leather and suede. Wholesaling from $79 to $229, the women’s collection includes heels, sandals and boots and incorporates zipper accents, studs and buckles in transitional colors like nude, black and brown. The men’s collection includes casual styles like leather sneakers in navy and shades of brown and two formal collections featuring brogues and slip-on and lace-up boots, wholesaling from $89 to $199. The shoes are designed in London and made in Europe, Brazil, India and Asia.

Dune has its sights set on becoming a major player in the U.S. market. Plans to open multiple stores in Manhattan this year are already confirmed, and Kelsey expects consumers to take well to the Dune London philosophy. “Our customer is the contemporary consumer who is looking for affordable luxury,” he says. “They understand fashion, but don’t want to spend a fortune to own the right shoes or bag.” —B.L.

Offering fashion on a budget, Dune London lands ashore.

Brit Pop

Max FactorA mainstay in the apparel market, Leon Max steps into footwear for fall.

UPCL OSE STREET

FW_02_14_UpClose_street_01.indd 80 1/22/14 4:00 PM

@ffanyshoeshow

JUNE 3-5, 2014TUESDAY–THURSDAYNew York Hilton Midtown & Member Showrooms

Shop FFANY 365 days a year–visit ffany365.com

Special hotel rates at FFANY.ORG

SAVE THE DATE: August 5-7, 2014 (Tuesday–Thursday)

FOP_Feb2014.indd 59 1/20/14 4:49 PM

82 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 201482 footwearplusmagazine.com •

UPCL OSE COMFORT

AS THE VICE president of sales of a brand with sheepskin roots, John Pierce says he’s heard it all. “There has been a lot of talk the last couple of winters that this is a dying category, that it has run its course,” he says. Well, nothing like a visit from the Polar Vortex to the eastern half of the nation this year (Twice in one winter, no less!) to silence naysayers about the need for warm and cozy footwear.

“I bet a lot of women are going back to their closets now and wishing to refresh their boot collection,” Pierce says. And the exec hopes their go-to brand of choice for affordable updates will once again be Bearpaw. “This fall we are embracing what we are in the market: a great value and price to consumers and great margin for retailers,” the exec explains. “We excel at under $100. That’s what our con-sumer has come to expect from us.”

To capitalize on the cold weather that has helped clear out inventories this winter, Bearpaw is forging ahead with a range of 100-percent water-proof, seam-sealed, cold weather boots after dabbling in it last fall. “We’re taking it to the next step. People bought into it in a small way, but we know it’s going to gradually build,” Pierce says. The tan, charcoal and black styles for women (offered in 9-inch, 10-inch and 13-inch versions) feature suede uppers, smooth leath-ers and quilted materials accented

with knit pieces, braiding detail and exposed fur trims. On the men’s end, two waterproof hikers, priced at $49 and $69 retail, are expected to help grow that side of the business, which Pierce says is still in the early stages. “Men’s is our biggest battle because we are still discovering who our consumer is,” he explains, noting that its men’s slippers business has been steady thanks to the category’s broad demo-graphic appeal.

For fashion-minded ladies, Bearpaw is vetting a new collection of boots with hidden wedges. “It’s a stylish look that is sleek and sophisticated, not at all bulky,” Pierce describes. It’s also a chance for the brand to tap into short boots with transitional silhouettes, including a version with a turndown cuff. Other key styles include a 7-inch lace-up boot with an inside zipper for ease, a double buckle 8-inch pull-on and fun with colors and prints, includ-ing camouflage, emerald green, cran-berry and dark honey.

With the introduction of slimmer silhouettes and utilitarian features, Pierce says, “We’re spreading our wings.” But he is quick to point out that the company will remain value and price conscious. “I think our boots have become staple items, like a flip-flop. Every girl has one to eight pairs of flip-flops,” he says. “These type of boots priced under $100 can be their winter flip-flops.” —Angela Velasquez

Knowing its comfort zone, Bearpaw expands with fashion and function for under $100.

Warm Embrace

DANKSO MAKES TRACKS into the outdoor arena with Boulder, an adventure-ready lifestyle collection for women, for Fall ’14. “At Dansko we believe women should have a comfortable option for every occasion in their lives,” states Ebeth Pitman, vice president of marketing for the West Grove, PA-based brand. “The Boulder collection works to deliver this promise, offering outdoor-inspired style for light walks, trips through the snow and everything in-between.”

The four-shoe package is infused with outdoor per-formance features for all-day comfort on and off the beaten track. It includes seam-sealed waterproof con-structions to keep feet dry, slip-resistant Vibram out-soles for durability and stability, DuPont Sorona linings to wick away moisture and Cleansport NXT technology to control odor. In addition, triple-den-sity EVA footbeds deliver a cushioned feel and can be removed and replaced with an orthotic insole for addi-tional support. “Boulder was designed for the woman seeking purposeful, outdoor-inspired footwear for adventure of all sizes, keeping her on any path she chooses,” Pitman adds.

The nubuck leather styles span sneakerized slip-ons and lace-ups to fur-trimmed booties and mid-calf boots in a nature-inspired palette of neutrals peppered with pops of taupe and wine. Wholesale prices range from $72.50 to $112.50. “We truly believe this col-lection is as good looking as it is functional,” Pittman says, adding that a similar assortment for men is in the cards. —Lyndsay McGregor

Great AdventuresDansko debuts outdoor performance collection.

FW_02_14_UpClose_comfort_01.indd 82 1/22/14 11:51 AM

WHEN A PATIENT walked in to Dr. Philip Vasyli’s office about 10 years ago complaining that his orthotic insoles didn’t quite “vibe” with his Australian flip-flop lifestyle, Vasyli got the idea to cre-ate shoes with the insoles built directly into them, thus Orthaheel technology was born. Vasyli then merged with Vionic Group to cre-ate a line of footwear designed to restore the foot’s natural align-ment; therefore alleviating joint, neck and back pain. Having earned its comfort cred, Vionic is shifting its focus to fashion. “When we started, 98 percent of styles were orthotics, now we are evolving

into a stylish footwear company for men and women,” says Chris Gallagher, president and CEO of Vionic Group.

Vionic launched with a women’s focus, offering just a handful of looks for men beginning two years ago. But in keeping up with grow-ing demand, Spring ’14 marked an expanded offering for men. The decision came largely from hearing out Vionic’s loyal female con-sumers, who make up 85 percent of business, that were complain-ing there were no shoes available offering the same support for their husbands and boyfriends. “Customers are asking for it,” Gallagher confirms. “And people in the industry are telling me men’s is flat right now—nothing new is happening.”

Enter Vionic’s updated and expanded collection for Fall ’14: A mix of premium leather dress and casual styles with a few canvas options thrown into the mix. Muted gray, shades of brown and navy cover the lace up and slip-on walker styles while the leather strap flip-flops come in dark gray, black and brown tones. Vionic will also introduce a collection of men’s slippers that incorporate the same comfort tech-nologies—an unusual feature for the often unstructured footwear segment. The entire collection wholesales between $30 to $100.

So far so good as Gallagher reports the men’s collection has received a strong reaction from a range of retailers, including key independents and leading department stores like Dillard’s and Nordstrom. “We’ve continued to build more style in our product range and the consumer eats it up,” says Gallagher. “I would chal-lenge anyone to put our men’s range on the floor and tell me it looks like ‘orthotic’ footwear.” —Brittany Leitner

Vionic expands its men’s offering and ups its fashion ante.

Doctor’s Orders

Kalso Earth® Shoes (earthbrands.com) is a trademark of Meynard Designs, Inc. licensed to Earth, Inc. (Waltham, MA). © 2014 Earth, Inc.

Atlanta Shoe Market | February 13-15 | Cobb Galleria Center | Booth #1645-1647 | FN Platform | February 18-20 | Las Vegas Convention Center | Booth #82610

Come and see the Fall/Winter 2014 collection from Kalso Earth® Shoes!

solarPewter

prosperMilitary Grey

intrigue tooMerlot

FW_02_14_UpClose_comfort_01.indd 83 1/22/14 11:51 AM


its hair care products. And Toyota, which designed its Venza model specifi-cally for older Americans, featured Boomers with their Millennial-aged kids in its marketing campaign.

Boomers, it should be noted, want to be catered to at the age and men-tality they see themselves, not what they actually are. That’s why it’s bet-ter to leave “age” out of it. “We don’t market specifically by age group. Our brand essence is feeling free, starting with your feet,” explains Evert Rotteveel, senior marketing manager at Ecco USA. “It’s about being com-fortable and feeling good about yourself in the footwear you have on.” This approach is also being used by Clarks. Recently the brand switched up its designs and marketing to target consumers ages 30 to 44. But that’s okay as Senior Marketing Manager Carly Danforth reveals that focus groups show that its 55- to 64-year-old customer base is responding to the younger marketing vibe. “They realize they don’t need to be wearing a clog to have the comfort we deliver,” she adds.

Sperry Top-Sider has found that stay-ing true to its heritage has been the most important strategy in appealing to the over-50 crowd. “Macro trends sup-port the fact that consumers are find-ing comfort and connection in prod-ucts and brands that evoke nostalgia,” says Karen Pitts, vice president of mar-keting, adding that the 50-and-over segment is drawn to the brand’s classic styles, like the Authentic Original boat shoe. Birkenstock is also staying true to its roots, despite its recent renais-sance on the runway. “We don’t push this whole youth thing. It’s nice that the more trendy people are now picking up on Birkenstock but we’re never going to do anything that will alienate our core customer,” Kahan assures. “They’ve been around long enough to not accept any-thing less than a comfortable shoe on their foot.”

Indeed, products and services adapt-ed to older customers often benefit everybody, and retailers are cottoning on, too. “We try to be current for that 29 to 54 age group, which really makes our store acceptable for anybody aged 18 to 80,” says Gary Weiner, presi-dent and CEO of Saxon Shoes in Richmond, VA, adding that heels are not as powerful as they were 20 years ago. “The world is gravitating towards the comfort market, whether it’s a flat or a comfort pump. That really plays right into the mature market, which demands comfort.” He cites Clarks, Ecco, Pikolinos, Munro, Stuart Weitzman, Mephisto and Beautifeel as Saxon’s bestselling brands, and notes that it sells as many of Dansko’s comfort clogs to 20-year-old nurses as it does to the 50-and-over age group.

Another demographic attribute of Boomers that should be attractive to the footwear industry is it’s a generation raised on technology as a solution to their problems. The latest innovations—be it smartphones, tablets, flat screen TVs, wearable technologies—all send a similar message: upgrade to enhance your overall well-being. “Boomers are the generation that creat-ed product development in all areas of their life. They really demand inno-vation in all their products and they want style in everything,” Avey says. “They’re looking for footwear that’s flexible for a lot of different wearing occasions—styles that can take them from work to play.” Miroballi agrees: “They don’t want to look older, they want to look fashionable, but they don’t

want to give up comfort. That is essential.” While Boomers may have more disposable income, expectations run high

when they invest their money. “The good news is for those who deliver, the over-50 segment is extremely loyal to both brands and individual products that consistently meet their needs,” Pitts says.

Along those lines, Boomers expect to be treated with respect. And doing so increases their loyalty, especially since many brands and retailers ignore them. “The over-50 consumer needs comfort, they understand quality and they like and appreciate good service when making purchases at retail,” Kahan says. “But they need to be treated with respect, because many are now very tech savvy and many are very fashion aware.”

Weiner says the in-store experience is really what makes the difference for customers over 50. “If you take good care of them and have the shoes in stock, they tend to stay with you because they’re happy when they find things they like,” he says.

Avey says that having a knowl-edgeable sales staff is vital. “Boomers often have already done their home-work online before they come into the store so they want to know the differ-ence between the style they’re looking at and other shoes,” she says. “They rely on staff to inform them on their purchases.” Rotteveel echoes this sentiment: “The whole notion of comfort in its widest explanation within a store is important, as is exceeding the consumer’s expecta-tions.” Weiner adds that if you can build a personal relationship with your cus-tomers, you can recognize their situ-ation and connect them to a shoe that works for them. “Carry the brands that you’re able to do that with,” he advises. “And send them thank you notes after-wards—they love that.”

Indeed, how you communicate with Boomers is key. And don’t underesti-mate their social media skills. Boomers

represent one-third of all social media users, while another third of them shop online, spending almost $7 billion annually. They influence and are influenced by what their social network is saying about a specific brand or product as much as any Millennial. In fact, the over-55s are the fastest grow-ing demographic on Twitter—active usage has grown 79 percent since 2012. So tweet that!

“People love to share, particularly in their own age group, and now that those over 50 are just as much on social media as the younger generation, they have more of an ability to share,” stresses Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst of the retail tracking firm, NPD Group. “You need to multi-tier your marketing.” Sperry Top-Sider, for instance, communicates to all ages using multiple marketing platforms—from print, digital and social media to expe-riential and in-store events—because, as Pitts notes, “It is less about age and more about the lifestyle that we are celebrating.”

Brands and retailers need to convert sales and the simple fact is Boomers represent huge potential. “The 50-plus demographic is one of the most con-sistent growth markets in footwear, has been and will continue to be,” Cohen claims. “Ignoring them is giving away a big part of your business and a chunk of market share.” If you adopt the right approach they will open their minds and, more importantly, their wallets. •

“Boomers often have already done their

homework online before they come into

the store so they want to know the

difference between the style they’re looking

at and the other shoes.” —Jillian Avey, marketing manager, Propét

continued from page 20

fw_02_14_specialreport_01.indd 84 1/22/14 2:23 PM

LITTLE BLACK DRESSc Michael by Michael Kors c Vince Camutoc Sam Edelmanc Boutique 9

SUIT & TIEc Ted Bakerc Cole Haanc Allen Edmondsc Johnston & Murphy

MEN’S COLLECTIONc Wolverine 1000 Milec Sperry Top-Siderc Clarksc Ugg Australia

WOMEN’S COLLECTIONc Modern Vicec Elizabeth & Jamesc Steve Maddenc Rebecca Minkoff

KILLER STILETTOc Badgley Mischkac Chinese Laundryc B Brian Atwoodc Ivanka Trump

BOOTSc Bornc White Mountainc Fryec Minnetonka

MEN’S COMFORTc Eccoc Alegriac Aetrexc Rockport

WOMEN’S COMFORTc Naotc Earthiesc Cobb Hillc Dansko

CHILDREN’Sc Tomsc Primigic Skechersc Ralph Lauren

RUNNINGc Brooksc Skechers GoRunc Mizunoc Hoka One One

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLEc Kedsc Adidasc Conversec Vans

RAIN BOOTSc Chookac Hunterc Bogsc Kamik

SURFc Cushec Sanukc OluKaic Vans

WORK BOOTSc Wolverinec Rockyc Catc Keen

OUTDOOR c Merrellc Rocky S2Vc Lowac Oboz

MADE IN AMERICAc Vintage Shoe Companyc Sbiccac New Balancec Munro

SLIPPERSc Ugg Australiac Acornc Dearfoamsc Haflinger

COWBOY BOOTSc Durangoc Old Gringoc Ariatc Lucchese

ONLINE RETAILERc PlanetShoesc Zapposc Net-A-Porterc (Write-in)

SIT & FITSc Comfort One Shoesc Miroballi Shoesc Saxon Shoesc (Write-in)

NATIONAL CHAINc DSWc Nordstromc Bloomingdale’sc (Write-in)

BOUTIQUEc Shoe Marketc Bus Stopc Leffotc (Write-in)

BEST COLLABc Keds x Kate Spadec Dr. Martens x Agyness Deync Melissa + Karl Lagerfeldc Wolverine 1000 Mile by Samantha Pleetc Bass Loves Rachel Antonoff

BEST CUSTOMER SERVICEWHOLESALEc (Write-in only)

BEST CUSTOMER SERVICERETAILc (Write-in only)

BRAND OF THE YEARc Tomsc Birkenstockc Sperry Top-Siderc Steve Madden

COMPANY OF THE YEARc VF Corporationc Skechersc Wolverine Worldwidec Nike

NOMINEES!

PLUS AWARDSEXCELLENCE IN DESIGN & RETAIL

WINNERS ANNOUNCED FEB. 5, 2014 AT THE FFANY SHOW

CONGRATULATIONS

FW_02_14_ballot_01.indd 11 1/22/14 3:00 PM

deliveries are late… It’s just that today the problems and the business overall happen so much faster. Everything needs to happen faster. And the faster the business, the faster the problems come. But my take is that problems are opportunities. If you didn’t have them, you didn’t have the order to begin with. For example, I see that we shipped 8 million pairs of shoes last year and we might have had an issue with 200,000 pairs. All those individual orders that accounted for the 200,000 pairs made it seem like the world was crashing down. But don’t forget, we shipped 7.8 million pairs on time, in good quality and with no problems. I guess nobody wants to give you credit for the good things you did. They only want to tell you what went wrong [laughs].

Why has the business gotten so much faster? Fashion is happening faster. Retailers see a shoe pop up online somewhere and they want it right away. Consumers want prod-uct shipped the next day as well. In the past, the August trade shows were when orders were placed. Now we’re getting orders in December to arrive by the same deadline. We’re trying to turn it around as fast as we can. It’s a big reason why Steve Madden has been so successful—he makes a certain style in New York, puts it into his stores and finds out right away if something is working. Then he’ll fire off an order to his factory for 70,000 pairs and sell a boatload of them because he knows they will be good. The business is moving really fast, but it’s not a bad thing.

Because? It meets what retailers and, ultimately, their customers demand. In that regard, I don’t think the Internet shortens the lifespan of a trend. It just makes everyone aware of it faster. Before, there were trends nobody knew about because they never got beyond where they originated. Social media might keep a trend going longer. It has with tall boots.

Where do you see Consolidated Shoes in five years?We expect to be a bigger business. We work on that every day and I’m confident we will achieve our goals. We will have more partnerships. One of our main goals is to establish our brands further in order to be a player with the Nordstrom and Dillard’s of the world. We also want to become more of a globally known resource. We are opening accounts around the world and will continue to do so.

Is there another Carrington in the wings? No. Twelve years ago we became an ESOP (Employee Stock Ownership Plan) company. Eventually, Consolidated Shoes will become 100-percent owned by the employees.

What do you love most about your job?The diversity and the people. I’m just not a standstill guy. I can’t sit in an office 52 weeks a year staring at the four walls. I love traveling to our Asia factories, the shows and seeing our customers. I just love it all. I used to be on the road eight months a year, but now it’s about six months. Being the boss makes me have to be in the office a lot more than I really want to be, but that’s okay if it means helping us reach our goals.

Are they within reach?Absolutely. We would become a hugely profitable company if just our branded business grew to a certain volume—and that is a more than reasonable goal. We believe OTBT has the potential to reach that goal on its own. And if our branded business could one day equal the size of our first-cost business, then I’d turn the job over to somebody else and take my ESOP dividend check and check out [laughs]. •

continued from page 27

VOL. 24 • ISSUE 2 • FEBRUARY 2014 • $10

JOHNSON’S SHOES TURNS 100 • COOL COLLABORATIONS • BOOMER BUYING POWER

Forecast From Calf Hair

to Velvet, the Textures

of the Season

Fall

fw_02_14_cover_02.indd 38

1/21/14 3:36 PM

Enjoyed This Issue of Footwear Plus?

Stay engaged and informed of the most relevant and insightful market news

and latest fashion trends by subscribing to the premiere industry fashion

magazine: Footwear Plus.

A quick visit to

www.footwearplus-subscribe.com ensures that you will receive a free subscription to our award-winning publication. Be sure to include your

email address and phone number so we can easily contact you for timely,

uninterrupted renewal service.

Feel free to contact us anytime at [email protected]

or (440) 871-1300 with your questions.

H

H

FW_02_14_QA_04.indd 86 1/22/14 12:19 PM

Ahoy, matey!We’re going overboard for adventure!

The USRA May EventMay 4-6, 2014 Red Rock Resort Las Vegas

hosted by

One Industry. One Goal. One Place.

Yo ho! Treasure awaits. So swash buckle your shoes and prepare to board. Rum runs, booty, and smooth sailing ahead! N Keynote Speakers, Panels & WorkshopsN Continuing Education Points for CPEDsN Order DiscountsN Golf TournamentN Hotel & Meals includedN Industry NetworkingN Jolly Roger Buccaneer Blast!

Arrrrr! You in? Aye, our crew needs all hands on deck!Call or email the USRA office for Membership info or a May Event package.Phone: (818) 703-6062 Email: [email protected] www.usraonline.org

Thar she blows!

Heave ho

Blimey!Ahoy, matey

Red Rock Casino • Resort • Spawww.redrock.sclv.com

For he’s a Jolly Roger good fellow, USRA honorsCap’n Gary Champion,Earth Inc.2014 USRA Industry Icon

FOP_Feb2014.indd 53 1/18/14 4:20 PM

LAST WORD

catch of the day

The lifesaving Dunlop Purofort Thermo+ boot.

John Aldridge’s cover story in The New York

Times Magazine.

IT WAS MAN overboard—in the mid-dle of the night, miles offshore in the Atlantic Ocean off Montauk Point, with no life vest, no tracking devices and not a soul in the world who knew of lobster fisherman John Aldridge’s plight last July. Aldridge slipped and tumbled off his boat while two crew-members were fast asleep and the boat was on autopilot. All he could do, bobbing in the water, was watch his boat disappear into the darkness as he faced certain death, be it from hypo-thermia, predators (one shark did cir-cle a few hours into his ordeal) or exhaustion.

For the next 12 hours Aldridge was indeed “A Speck in the Sea,” the title of a recent New York Times Magazine cover story that detailed his epic sur-vival tale from plunge to rescue that has summer blockbuster written all over it. (Hollywood mogul Harvey Weinstein has bought the rights and plans to reunite Good Will Hunting stars Ben Affleck and Matt Damon in the lead roles.) And Aldridge would certainly have died if not for the green rubber boots he ingeniously kicked off and—by trapping air in each—turned into makeshift pontoons that he held under each arm. Incidentally, the trick defied the conventional overboard sur-vival rule of discarding boots entirely to lose extra weight.

Aldridge’s boots saved his life. They played such a key role in this epic tale that his father later got an image of them tattooed on his arm as a memen-to of his son’s incredible survival story. Oddly enough, the maker of the boots was omitted from The New York Times Magazine piece and numerous oth-er news sources that covered this story. Images of Aldridge’s boots included in articles had the label shadowed, and in TV interviews the logo was rubbed off completely. What gives?

Aldridge’s father was quoted in one article, joking that they weren’t reveal-ing the brand name so as not to com-promise any potential endorsement deals. But then a Canadian fan of Dunlop boots recognized the images as the brand’s Purofort Thermo+ boots. A Holland-based company dating back to 1888, Dunlop holds the patent to the pneumatic rubber tire. The Purofort Thermo+ is part of its agriculture col-lection of safety footwear. Features include insulation effective down to -58°F, an extra-thick sole that retains heat and provides shock absorption, and a flexible upper that allows for ease of movement. The suggested retail price is $239.

For Aldridge, the Dunlops were worth every penny—and many more. In fact, when the exhausted, sun-burned and dehydrated fisherman was finally plucked out of the water by a Coast Guard helicopter, he made sure the rescuer retrieved the boots as well.

Although Jan Bongers, market-ing director for Dunlop, reports hav-ing heard of other fishing-related tales where the boots were used as flota-tion devices, he confesses that he’s nev-er heard of a survival story as epic as Aldridge’s. “It’s a story you want to hear about your product,” Bongers says of Aldridge’s tale. And the father’s story of the tattoo? “We don’t even have peo-ple who work for us with tattoos of our product,” he says with a laugh.

Bongers notes that English coast guards love Dunlop boots, and the deep cut lug soles help keep fishermen from getting entangled in nets. “We’re first and foremost happy he survived,” Bongers notes of Aldridge. “Secondly, it confirms our positioning in the market in that we want to make the best boots in the world. Using them as a flotation device will definitely become part of our marketing efforts.”

After a fisherman survives 12 hours at sea using his boots as makeshift flotation devices and later

becomes the subject of a New York Times Magazine cover story, the bootmaker finally gets its well-deserved

moment in the sun. By Brittany Leitner

Sole Survivor


Ben Affleck and Matt Damon may star in the movie adaptation of this incredible story.

FW_02_14_Last_Word_02.indd 88 1/21/14 1:14 PM

Fashion Inspires Us

Value Drives Us

rialto A Division of White Mountain

www.rialtoshoes.com

FOP_Feb2014.indd 61 1/20/14 5:49 PM

FOP_Feb2014.indd 12 1/20/14 5:51 PM

Footwear Plus | February 2014

Documents

Transcript of Footwear Plus | February 2014