Footwear Ecolabel Criteria revision - European...
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ria revision g Footwear Ecolabel Criter I EUEB meeting EUEB Meeting Brussels, 3 December 2008 Service Contract N. 070307/2007/482665/MAR/G2
Transcript of Footwear Ecolabel Criteria revision - European...
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EUEB Meeting
Brussels, 3 December 2008
Service Contract N. 070307/2007/482665/MAR/G2
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gSTRUCTURE OF THE PLAN
Work Package 1Work Package 1
Development of a Preliminary Report for the evaluation of the necessity of revision for the existing criteria for Footwear product group
�
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Work Package 2Work Package 2
Revision of the existing criteria
for the allocation of the EU Eco-label to Footwear products.
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TASK ACTION DEADLINE Deliverables Status
TASK 1
Beginning of the project 17 December 2007 WP1 timetable Ok
1° AHWG meeting 12 March 2008
Preliminary Draft
Report;
PPT presentation
Ok
Minutes of the 1st AHWG meeting 26 March 2008 Minutes Ok
Management of the AHWG comments 26 March 2008Updated Preliminary
Draft Report Ok
Preliminary draft Report on the WP1 activities
diffusion to EC27 October 2008
Preliminary Draft Report
Ok
Comments from EC -Ok
WP1 activities: up to date situation (Table 1.1 in the Report)
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g Comments from EC -
Task 2
Management of EC and stakeholders comments on
Preliminary draft report and distribution to all interested
parties
27 October 2008
-
Ok
Final WP1 report preparation (containing an LCA study
for footwear production)
Final Draft Report
1st Background Report
Ok
First Background report (integrated in the WP1 Report)
First Draft criteria proposal 1° draft criteria Ok
Documents for the 1° AHWG MeetingFinal Draft Report
1° draft criteriaOk
II AHWG meeting 10 November 2008
Preliminary Draft
Report;
PPT presentation
Ok
Minutes of the 2nd AHWG meeting In 2 weeks Minutes Ok
Management of the AHWG comments In 2 weeks Draft Report Ok
Task 3Documentation for the EUEB meeting 19 November
2nd Draft criteria
ppt presentationOk
EUEB meeting 3 December - Ok
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gNew Criteria Proposal Framework
1. RESIDUES IN THE FINAL PRODUCT
2. REDUCTION OF WATER CONSUMPTION (FOR THE TANNING
OF HIDES AND SKINS)
3. EMISSIONS FROM THE PRODUCTION OF MATERIAL
4. USE OF HARMFUL SUBSTANCES
5. USE OF VOCS DURING FINAL ASSEMBLY OF SHOES
Modified
New criterion proposal
Modified
Updated and extended
Modified
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g 5. USE OF VOCS DURING FINAL ASSEMBLY OF SHOES
6. USE OF PVC
7. ENERGY CONSUMPTION
7. ELECTRIC COMPONENTS
8. PACKAGING OF THE FINAL PRODUCT
9. INFORMATION ON THE PACKAGING
10. INFORMATION APPEARING ON THE ECO-LABEL
11. PARAMETERS CONTRIBUTING TO DURABILITY
Modified
To be discussed
Made mandatory
DELETED - included in the PG definition (art. 2)
Modified
To be discussed at the end of the revision
To be discussed at the end of the revision
Modified
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gARTICLE 2
DEFINITION OF THE PRODUCT GROUP
Modification proposal
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The product group ‘footwear’ shall comprise:
“All articles of clothing designed to protect or cover the foot, with a fixed outer sole which comes
into contact with the ground.
Footwear shall not contain any electric or electronic components.”
The exclusion of the electric and electronic
components, currently required in the criterion
7, has been moved in the definition of the PG.
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gCRITERIA PREMISE
APPLICATION OF THE CRITERIA
New proposal
SOLUTION A SOLUTION B
The topside shoe components weighting less
SOLUTION C
The topside shoe components weighting less
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Former criteria:
no requirements
The topside shoe components weighting less
than 5% of the whole topside part shall not be
taken into account for the application of the
following criteria.
The bottom side shoe components weighting
less than 5% of the whole outer sole shall not
be taken into account for the application of
the following criteria.
The topside shoe components weighting less
than 3% of the whole topside part shall not be
taken into account for the application of the
following criteria.
The bottom side shoe components weighting
less than 3% of the whole outer sole shall not
be taken into account for the application of
the following criteria.
To facilitate the award, avoiding expensive and
useless tests on negligible parts of the shoe
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gCRITERION 1
RESIDUES IN THE FINAL PRODUCT
(a) Chromium (for leather only)
The average concentration of residuesof Chromium (VI) in the final productfor shoes made of leather shall notexceed 3 ppm or shall not be
detectable.
(b) Arsenic, Cadmium and Lead
The residues of Arsenic, Cadmium andLead shall not be detected in thematerials used for the productassembly or in the final product (usingthe method specified below).
(c) Formaldehyde
The amount of free and hydrolysatedformaldehyde of the components of thefootwear shall not exceed the followinglimits:
SOLUTION 2.A
Textile:
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SOLUTION A
Former criteria: no exceptions.
or
SOLUTION B
This requirement shall not apply if the tanning process is chrome free.
Assessment and verification: test methods EN ISO 17075
Assessment and verification: test methods EN 14602.
The applicant can choose whether apply the tests to the
“materials for the product assembly” or to the “final product”
Textile:
Children shoes (0-12) = 20 ppm (n.d.);
Other shoes = 75 ppm.
Leather shoes = 150 ppm.
Or
SOLUTION 2.B
Textile: 20 ppm (non detectable);
Leather = 150 ppm.
Assessment and verification
Textiles: EN ISO 14184-1;
Leather: EN 14602 or EN ISO 17226-1 or 2�Restriction only to leather shoes
because Cr (VI) derives from the leather
treatments only;
�Lowering of the limit for Cr(VI) to EN
ISO 17075 limit of detection .
Possibility to apply the criterion either to
the final product or to the materials
used for the assembly to limit the costs
of the grinding method application.
�Textile limit in agreement with the EU Ecolabel for Textiles and the OEKO TEX 100.
�Introduction of a new limit for children products lowering to a unique limit;
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gCRITERION 2
REDUCTION OF WATER CONSUMPTION (only for the tanning of hides and skins)
New proposal
The following limits to water consumption for the tanning of hide and skin shall not be exceeded:
Hides: 35 m3/t;
Skins: 55 m3/t
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g Skins: 55 m /t
Assessment and verification: the applicant and/or his supplier(s) shall provide a declaration that the mentioned limits have not been exceeded.
�The proposal has been developed in collaboration with COTANCE (European Leather Industry);
�Many literature references demonstrate both the strictness and the achievability of this limits.
�Some stakeholders ask to delete this new proposal because of the difficulties in calculating a realistic
and verifiable value for the water consumption related to the final product considered the many
successive stages composing the production process.
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EMISSIONS FROM THE PRODUCTION OF MATERIAL
(a) COD
The content of COD in waste waters from the textile and tanning
industries discharged into superficial waters after treatment in in-
house and/or municipal waste water treatment plants/facilities, shall
(b) Chromium III
Tannery waste water after treatment shall
contain less than 5 mg Chromium (III)/l.
CRITERION 3 (ex criterion 2)
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g house and/or municipal waste water treatment plants/facilities, shall
not exceed 150mg COD/l of water discharged.
Assessment and verification: the applicant shall provide a test report
and complementary data, using the following test method: COD: ISO
6060 - Water quality, determination of chemical oxygen demand.
Assessment and verification: the applicant
shall provide a test report and
complementary data, using the following
test methods: ISO 9174 or EN 1233 or EN
ISO 11885 for Cr.
� The proposal has been developed in collaboration with COTANCE
(European Leather Industry);
� The more restrictive law hurdles in Europe are of 150-160 mg/l (125
mg/l of COD in the effluent water for treatment plants to urban waste
water);
� The previous requirement (85% reduction, was unsuitable).
No modification
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gCRITERION 4 (ex criterion 3)
USE OF HARMFUL SUBSTANCES (UP UNTIL PURCHASE)
(a) PCP and TCP
a) Pentachlorophenol (PCP) andTetrachlorophenol (TCP) and theirsalts and esters shall not be used.
Textiles: limit value 0,05 ppm
(b) Azo dyes
b) No azo dyes shall be used that maycleave to any of the following aromaticamines:
[for the list of substances, please, refer
(c) N-Nitrosamines
(d) Chloralkanes
(c) The following N-Nitrosamines shall notbe detected in rubber.
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Textiles: limit value 0,05 ppm
Leather: limit value 5 ppm
Assessment and verification: [...] Should a verification of this
declaration be carried out, the following test methods shall be used: Leather (EN ISO 17070): limit value 5
ppm; Textile (XP G 08-015): limit value 0,05 ppm;
[for the list of substances, please, referto the Commission Decision2002/231/EC.]
Textiles: EN 14362 1 or 2 - limit 30 ppm
Leather: CEN ISO TS 17234 - limit 30ppm.
be detected in rubber.
[for the list of substances, please, refer tothe Commission Decision 2002/231/EC]
Assessment and verification: test methodsEN 12868 (1999-12) or EN 14602.
(d) C10-C13 chloralkanes shall not be usedin leather, rubber or textile components.
Assessment and verification: declarationof non use.
It is impossible to ask a reduction since
the limit cannot be detected, also I they
matches with the Directive 2002/61/EC
Updated
Updated
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gCRITERION 4 (ex criterion 3)
USE OF HARMFUL SUBSTANCES (UP UNTIL PURCHASE)
(e) Carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction dyes
(e) The following dyes classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to
reproduction shall not be used to dye
(f) NPE and PFOS
(f) Nonylphenol ethoxylate (NPE) andPerfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) shallnot be used.
(g) Disperse dyes
(g) The following substances classified as“potentially sensitising dyes” shall not beused:
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g reproduction shall not be used to dye the materials used for the final
product assembly:
[for the list of substances, please, refer to the Commission Decision
2002/231/EC.]
Assessment and verification: [...] declaration of non-use
not be used.
Assessment and verification: theapplicant shall provide a declaration ofnon-use.
used:
[for the list of substances, please, refer tothe Commission Decision 2002/231/EC.]
Assessment and verification: [...]declaration of non-use
NEW CRITERION
Harmonised with
the EU Ecolabel for
Textile products
NEW CRITERION
NEW CRITERION
Harmonised with
the EU Ecolabel for
Textile products
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USE OF VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS (VOCS) DURING FINAL ASSEMBLY OF SHOES
Modification proposal
SOLUTION A SOLUTION B SOLUTION C
CRITERION 5 (ex criterion 4)
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To delete the criterion because as it
is now (25 grams VOC/pair) it
matches with the current in force
legislation
The total use of VOCs during final
footwear production, for the following
categories, shall not exceed, on
average, 20 grams VOC/pair.
The total use of VOCs during final
footwear production, for the following
categories, shall not exceed, on
average, 15 grams VOC/pair.
Directive 1999/13/CE allows a
maximum limit of limit of 25 gram
VOC/pair
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gCRITERION 6 (ex criterion 5)
USE OF PVC
Modification proposal
SOLUTION A (old criterion)
The footwear shall not contain virgin
PVC.
Recycled PVC may, however, be used in
outsoles, where no use is made of
SOLUTION B
If PVC is used it must comply with the Directive 2005/84/CE on phthalates, which
provide the limitation and exclusion of some components. In particular, it is
forbidden to the use of the following substances, which are also prioritised under
the EChA SVHC (Substances of Very High Concern) list:
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outsoles, where no use is made of
DEHP (bis(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate), BBP
(butylbenzylphthalate) or DBP
dibutylphthalate) in preparing the
polymer.
Assessment and verification:
declaration of compliance.
Bis (2-ethyl(hexyl)phthalate) (DEHP)
Benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP)
dibutylphthalate (DBP)
The “PVC MADE” label is requested on the shoes (or pack). An information
concerning the content (in %) of virgin/recycled PVC contained in the shoes must be
put on the product packaging.”
Finally, the applicant is requested to provide evidences of the wiliness to make
feasible a suitable and practicable way to collect shoes at the end of their life for
recycling.
Assessment and verification: declaration of compliance and participation with
recycling schemes like Vinyl 2010 or other PVC recycling schemes.
No modification
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ENERGY CONSUMPTION
Modification proposal (IT BECOMES MANDATORY)
The energy consumption at the manufacturing stage shall be declared.
Assessment and verification: the applicant is requested to provide the relevant information according to the
Technical appendix A1.
CRITERION 7 (ex criterion 6)
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Technical Appendix A1. Energy consumption calculation
The average electric consumption (AEC) for each pair of shoes can be calculated two alternative ways:
On the base of the standard daily production of the
plant:
- MJdp = direct energy used in daily production
[electricity + fossil fuels] as annual average;
- N = number of shoes daily produced as annual
average.
On the base of the effective ecolabelled production
of the plant:
- MJep = MJ used in the production of the
Ecolabelled shoes [electricity + fossil fuels] as
annual (annual data);
- Nep = number of Ecolabelled shoes produced as
annual data.
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gCRITERION 8
PACKAGING OF THE FINAL PRODUCT
Modification proposal
Where cardboard boxes are used for the final Where plastic bags are used for the final
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packaging of footwear, they shall be made from
a minimum of 100 % recycled material.
packaging of footwear, they shall be made from
at least 50% recycled material.
•The proposal to introduce a requirement for
the biodegradability of sacks and bag was
made;
• The relevance of this requirement has to be
investigated.
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The criteria report some basic recommendations about the product correct use, as:
‘These shoes have been treated to improve their water resistance. They do not require further
treatment.’
‘Where possible repair your footwear rather than throw them away. This is less damaging to the
environment.’
CRITERION 9. – INFORMATION OF THE PACKAGING
The proposed modifications have to be
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‘When disposing of footwear, please use appropriate local recycling facilities where these are
available.’
The decision text cites:
“Box 2 of the eco-label shall contain the following text:
- low air and water pollution,
- harmful substances avoided.”
CRITERION 10. –INFORMATION APPEARING ON THE ECO-LABEL
The proposed modifications have to be
discussed at the end of the revision
process, according to the other criteria
changes and to the Ecolabel Regulation.
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General sports School footwear Casual Men’s townCold weather
footwearWomen’s town Fashion Infants Indoor
Uppers flex resistant:
(kc without visible damage)
Dry = 100
Wet = 20
Dry = 100
Wet = 20
Dry = 80
Wet = 20
Dry = 80
Wet = 20
Dry = 100
Wet = 20
-20° = 30
Dry = 50
Wet = 10
Dry = 15 Dry = 15 Dry = 15
Uppers tear strength:
(Average tear force, N)
Leather
Other materials
≥ 80
≥ 40
≥ 60
≥ 40
≥ 60
≥ 40
≥ 60
≥ 40
≥ 60
≥ 40
≥ 40
≥ 40
≥ 30
≥ 30
≥ 30
≥ 30
≥ 30
≥ 30
Outsoles flex resistance:
CRITERION 11 - PARAMETERS CONTRIBUTING TO DURABILITY
The value for the categories “school” and “casual” has been interchanged
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g Outsoles flex resistance:
Cut growth (mm)
Nsc=no spontaneous crack
≤ 4
Nsc
≤ 4
Nsc
≤ 4
Nsc
≤ 4
Nsc
≤ 4
Nsc at -10°C
≤ 4
Nsc
Outsoles abrasion resistance:
D ≥ 0,9 g/cm3 (mm3)
D < 0,9 g/cm3 (mg)
≤ 200
≤ 150
≤ 200
≤ 150
≤ 250
≤ 170
≤ 350
≤ 200
≤ 200
≤ 150
≤ 400
≤ 250
≤ 450
≤ 300
Uppersole adhesion: (N/mm) ≥ 4,0 ≥ 4,0 ≥ 3,0 ≥ 3,5 ≥ 3,5 ≥ 3,0 ≥ 2,5 ≥ 3,0 ≥ 2,5
Outsoles tear strength:
(Average strength, N/mm)
D ≥ 0,9 g/cm3
D < 0,9 g/cm3
8
6
8
6
8
6
6
4
8
6
6
4
5
4
6
5
5
4
Colour fastness of the inside of
the footwear (lining or inner face
of the upper). Grey scale on the
felt after 50 cycles wet
≥ 2/3 ≥ 2/3 ≥ 2/3 ≥ 2/3 ≥ 2/3 ≥ 2/3 ≥ 2/3 ≥ 2/3
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gFOOTWEAR ECOLABELLING AND DEVELOPING COUNTRIES
LCE has been invited to participate to two project promoted by UNEP for the
“ENABLING DEVELOPING COUNTRIES TO SEIZE ECO-LABELLING
OPPORTUNITIES”.
1er Taller Nacional de Ecoetiquetado – México Promoviendo oportunidades de ecoetiquetado
en países en desarrollo
(Attended by CIMAC).
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Regional workshop on eco-labelling, 17-18th september, 2008, at
the Silver Springs Hotel, Nairobi – Kenya;
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For any further information, do not hesitate to contact us
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Life Cycle Engineering
Gian Luca Baldo
Marco Montani
60, Via Livorno- edificio A2
10144 Torino- Italy
Ph. +39 0112257311
Fax +39 0112257319
Email: montani@studiolce .it
Website : www.studiolce.it
For specific technical questions please write
to:
