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food studies :: the origins of feijoada
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RECIPES’ REASONS Maria Raquel Lucena de Almeida Tutorial Presentation 180713 The University of Adelaide - Food Studies Feijoada: The origins of Brazil's National Dish
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Transcript of food studies :: the origins of feijoada
RECIPES’ REASONS
Maria Raquel Lucena de AlmeidaTutorial Presentation 180713
The University of Adelaide - Food Studies
Feijoada: The origins of Brazil's National Dish
Brazil: Culinary Identity
Brazil: Culinary Identity
Feijoada a rich stew of beans, variety of meats, and flavourings
Feijoada Completaa rich stew of beans, variety of meats, and flavourings
rice, sautéed couve (“collard greens”), oranges, farofa, and an uncooked salsa of onions, tomatoes, peppers, cilantro, and dressing
Fajans, 89
Rice
Beans
Couve
Farofa
How it is served?
Feijoada: Origins
MythIn the few intervals of farm work, slaves would get from their masters' kitchens parts of pork which did not serve the taste of their lords and cook it with beans, the only food that would be allowed for them.
Feijoada: Origins
Portugalcozido português
ItalybollitoSpain
olla podridapucheropaellacocidopringápilotafabadapote
Francepot-pourricassoulet
Câmara Cascudo, 447
Influences
FeijoadaPortugal, Trás os Monteswith kidney beans
Mozambique
Goa
East Timor
Cape Verdecachupa
Other versions of the dish
A Brazilian family in Rio de Janeiro
Jean-Baptiste Debret, 1827
Wikimedia Commons
Feijoada: OriginsLetters Jean-Baptiste Debret
Feijoada: Origins
Menu Diário de Pernambuco of August 7, 1833Théâtre Hotel in Recife, PernambucoFeijoada à la Brazilian
AdvertisementJanuary 5, 1849Rio de JaneiroThe excellent Feijoada à la Brazilian
Feijoada Completa: Origins
+ =
Rio de Janeiro, 1911Câmara Cascudo, 452
How did feijoada become Brazil's national dish?
182218881889
Brazil becomes independent from Portugal
Abolition of Slavery
Proclamation of the Republic
September 7
May 13
November 15
First efforts to establish a national identityFeijoada: 1833 (first mention on a menu)
Summing upFeijoada is Brazil's iconic dish
It puts together a whole nation and many different regional cuisines.
Myth: It was invented by slaves
Fact: It is influenced by many different countries and have different versions in another places in the world. The oldest references to Feijoada are from menus and advertisements of restaurants patronised by the urban elite.
As a national symbol, the history of feijoada parallels the narrative of Brazil as a mixed country, with different cultures, races, ethos and religions in the same pot.
ReferencesBenta, Dona. Dona Benta: Comer Bem. 76th ed. São Paulo: Companhia Editora Nacional, 2004
Cascudo, Luís da Câmara. História da Alimentação no Brasil. 3rd ed. São Paulo: Global, 2004.
Elias, Rodrigo. “Feijoada: a short history of an edible institution”. Textos do Brasil 13 – Sabores do Brasil. Accessed July 16, 2013 http://dc.itamaraty.gov.br/publicacoes/textos/ingles/revistaing13.pdf
El-Kareh, Almir Chaiban. A vitória da feijoada. Niterói: Editora da UFF, 2012.
Fajans, Jane. Brazilian food : race, class and identity in regional cuisines. Oxford: Berg, 2012.
Fry, Peter. "Politics, Nationality, and the Meanings of 'Race' in Brazil." Daedalus 129.2 (2000): 83.
Freyre, Gilberto. The Masters and The Slaves – A Study in the Development of Brazilian Civilization. Translated by Samuel Putnam. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1971.
Hamilton, Cherie. “Bahian Bean Stew” in Brazil, a Culinary Journey. New York: Hippocrene Books, 2005, 54 – 55.
Oliven, Ruben George. “The Production and Consumption of Culture in Brazil”. Latin American Perspectives, 11, No. 1, Brazil in Crisis (1984): 103- 115.
Questions?
