food MACARON- MANIA

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11 10 MACARON- food PHOTO BY THOMAS PICO; COURTESY OF LADURÉE MANIA The macaron, once exclusively a specialty of Parisian pâtisseries, is quickly becoming a favorite around the world. By Roger Grody T he flashy macaron — this delicate meringue sandwich cookie is not be confused with the less colorful coconut-flavored macaroon sold at American bakeries — is a confection of Parisian pedigree and style. In the hands of a masterful pastry chef, macarons can embody the creative spirit, sense of style and romanticism of the City of Light like no other sweet. One of the first impressions tourists have of a Paris pâtisserie, aside from the inviting aromas wafting from ovens, is the typically kaleidoscopic selection of macarons, with the ethereal cookies presented in neat rows reflecting every color of the spectrum. While its ancient origins are disputed, historians generally agree that the modern version of the macaron (two meringue shells fused together by creamy ganache or buttercream) was popularized in early- 20th century Paris. Pastry chef, culinary educator and author Kathryn Gordon — her cookbook Les Petits Macarons, Colorful French Confections to Make at Home was described by The Wall Street Journal as the most comprehensive and inspiring book on macarons in any language — explains the confection’s allure. “People love the way they look visually, and since they’re relatively small, you can eat more than one, sampling different flavors,” reports Gordon of consumers’ obsession with the delicate cookie. Gordon worked at some of New York’s finest restaurants and has taught culinary students the art of macaron making for almost two decades. “At the height of the craze in New York, around 2014, we scheduled 10 classes on macarons, but had to add 16 more,” says the pastry instructor. Gordon adds, “Interest may have peaked, but it doesn’t seem to be dying down at all,” noting that macarons might just be the ultimate food subject on Instagram. Gordon states, “It’s fascinating that something with just four main ingredients [almond flour, confectioners’ sugar, granulated sugar, and egg whites] can be so complex,” but insists home chefs can master them. “We’ve had people making beautiful macarons after one session,” she says, while cautioning that temperamental ovens and weather conditions are wild cards in macaron making. “People tend to be afraid of them, but they’re not as difficult as they seem,” reports Gordon. Ladurée, a legendary pâtisserie in Paris, maintains that Pierre Desfontaines, cousin of founder Louis Ernest Ladurée, first conceived the modern macaron in the mid-19th century, the genesis of an international sensation. From its humble origins in the 8th arrondissement, Ladurée has evolved into a global brand with its PHOTO COURTESY OF PIERRE HERMÉ PARIS

Transcript of food MACARON- MANIA

Page 1: food MACARON- MANIA

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MACARON-f o o d

PHOTO BY THOMAS PICO; COURTESY OF LADURÉE

MANIAThe macaron, once exclusively a specialty of Parisian pâtisseries, is quickly becoming a favorite around the world.By Roger Grody

The flashy macaron — this delicate meringue sandwich cookie is not be confused with the less colorful

coconut-flavored macaroon sold at American bakeries — is a confection of Parisian pedigree and style. In the hands of a masterful pastry chef, macarons can embody the creative spirit, sense of style and romanticism of the City of Light like no other sweet.

One of the first impressions tourists have of a Paris pâtisserie, aside from the inviting aromas wafting from ovens, is the typically kaleidoscopic selection of macarons, with the ethereal cookies presented in neat rows reflecting every color of the spectrum. While its ancient origins are disputed, historians generally agree that the modern version of the macaron (two meringue shells fused together by creamy ganache or buttercream) was popularized in early-20th century Paris.

Pastry chef, culinary educator and author Kathryn Gordon — her cookbook Les Petits Macarons, Colorful French Confections to Make at Home was described by The Wall Street Journal as the most comprehensive and inspiring book on macarons in any language — explains the confection’s allure. “People love the way they look visually, and since they’re relatively small, you can eat more than one, sampling different flavors,”

reports Gordon of consumers’ obsession with the delicate cookie.

Gordon worked at some of New York’s finest restaurants and has taught culinary students the art of macaron making for almost two decades. “At the height of the craze in New York, around 2014, we scheduled 10 classes on macarons, but had to add 16 more,” says the pastry instructor. Gordon adds, “Interest may have peaked, but it doesn’t seem to be dying down at all,” noting that macarons might just be the ultimate food subject on Instagram.

Gordon states, “It’s fascinating that something with just four main ingredients [almond flour, confectioners’ sugar, granulated sugar, and egg whites] can be so complex,” but insists home chefs can master them. “We’ve had people making beautiful macarons after one session,” she says, while cautioning that temperamental ovens and weather conditions are wild cards in macaron making. “People tend to be afraid of them, but they’re not as difficult as they seem,” reports Gordon.

Ladurée, a legendary pâtisserie in Paris, maintains that Pierre Desfontaines, cousin of founder Louis Ernest Ladurée, first conceived the modern macaron in the mid-19th century, the genesis of an international sensation. From its humble origins in the 8th arrondissement, Ladurée has evolved into a global brand with its PH

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boutiques popping up from Casablanca to Shanghai, Moscow to Miami. The quality of Ladurée macarons, including some dazzling holiday season specials, has never been compromised.

Ladurée U.S. CEO Elisabeth Holder, who notes that appearances in the Sofia Coppola-directed movie Marie Antoinette

and cult series Gossip Girl spiked interest in the confection, states, “We often call the Ladurée macaron the ‘supermodel of the food industry.’” Explaining its international reception, she adds, “It’s the quintessential, delicious, bite-size cookie offered in the most beautiful range of natural colors and flavors, all gluten-free.” 

Paris is filled with extraordinary pâtisseries, and while Ladurée remains a sentimental favorite, pastry chef Pierre Hermé is the city’s most celebrated macaron innovator. His audacious, wildly creative interpretations are so trendsetting that seasonal releases of his new flavors are as anxiously awaited as the collections of haute couture from the city’s renowned fashion designers.

Anise and saffron, chocolate and foie gras, caviar and walnut are brazen yet surprisingly balanced flavor combinations for Hermé’s exquisitely crafted macarons, which are dispensed at the pastry chef’s jewel box-like stores. Like Ladurée, the Pierre Hermé brand is no longer confined to Paris, with boutiques found throughout Europe, the Middle East and Asia.

The master’s sugary repertoire extends far beyond macarons, but much of his fame is associated with those glamorous little cookies. Hermé is never constrained by traditional practices, techniques or ingredients, which allows him to explore unique cross-cultural flavor profiles. “With only pleasure as a guide, there are infinite creative opportunities to constantly invent new delicacies with incomparable taste architectures,” explains the renowned pastry chef.

In Houston, entrepreneur Sukaina Rajani opened her first Macaron by Patisse

shop in 2013 after originally selling out of her home, and now has three fashionable locations in the city. “There are so many steps and they’re so temperamental that it took me a zillion times to get it right,” says the self-taught Rajani, who notes that Houston’s high humidity can be unkind to macaron making.

Macaron by Patisse was the first macaron shop in the sprawling Texas metropolis, and the Canadian-born entrepreneur of Pakistani heritage is

largely responsible for introducing these edible jewels to Houstonians. Rajani continues to educate people on her specialty, including hosting macaron baking classes for amateur pastry chefs. Her inventive seasonal macarons include pumpkin spice, Key lime pie (with a graham cracker cookie shell), cinnamon roll, and watermelon.

Emphasizing the versatility of the confection, Kathryn Gordon presents a variety of savory macaron recipes in her

Ladurée combines craftsmanship and creativity.

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cookbook, encompassing fillings infused with eclectic ingredients like mushrooms, duck confit with port and fig, hummus, or Thai chile-peanut. “It’s impossible to entirely take the sugar out of the macaron shell, so naturally sweet ingredients like foie gras, lobster and mole tend to work very well,” says Gordon.

New Jersey-based Dana’s Bakery is one of the most prolific producers of quality macarons, and founder Dana Pollack ships her colorful creations nationwide. While her macarons are prepared in the classic Parisian style, Pollack’s repertoire reflects playful all-American themes: red velvet cake, banana split, cotton candy, sweet potato pie, and caramel apple.

Bottega Louie in downtown Los Angeles is one of America’s most photographed restaurants, thanks in large part to the brightly colored macarons showcased in a massive display case. The sight of these glamorous little pastries, even to seasoned veterans, never gets old.

Macaron by Patisse proves macarons can be fun.

An elegant Macaron by Patisse boutique in Houston.

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