Food and Travel June 2015

7/17/2019 Food and Travel June 2015

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UK food festivals

JUNE 2015 4.4

DevonAn insiders guide

HOT LONG WEEKENDSItaly, Croatia, Greece, Turkey, Spain & Portugal

FREEKIDSspecial

Fresh twists on

Salads

48hrs in

Seville

Gourmet traveller

Latvia

FLIP MAGAZINE OV

ACTION PACKED HOLIDAYS RECIPESANIMAL ADVENTURESBEST UK BEACHE

201AW

ARD

THESH

ORTLIS


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3/164FOOD & TRAVEL 3

Editor Renate Ruge

Creative directorAngela Dukes

Deputy editor Mark Sansom

Consultant editor Ian Belcher

Editorial assistant Blossom Green

Sub-editors James Williams,

Nick Mee, Jo Lamiri

Research assistants Imogen Lepere,

Karolina Wiercigroch

Designer Kelly Flood

Guest sommelierVanessa Cinti

Publisher Gregor Rankin

Account director Ross Lipsett

Account managersTim Broad,

Tony Franks

Marketing executiveTam Hashim

Account executiveManon Voisin

Subscriptions

01737 457 155

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Switchboard 020 7501 0511

Email [email protected]

Twitter @FoodandTravelEd

Webwww.foodandtravel.com

facebook.com/FoodandTravelEd

Food and Travel, Arabia

John Taylor, managing editor

[email protected]

Food and Travel, GermanyRenate Ruge, editor

[email protected]

Food and Travel, Mexico

Cecilia Nez, editor

[email protected]

Food and Travel, Turkey

Mehmet Tel, editor

[email protected]

-

Sunshine, welcome back! Dont you just love all that comes

with the realstart of summer? Theres the scent of newly

mown lawns, strawberries and cream at Wimbledon and

corks popping at barbecue feasts where those late light evenings

seem to stretch on forever. Cherries are in season too. Discover

delicious ways to cook jellies and jams with their plump, sweet fruit

on page 20. Craving fresh green leaves? Try some fantastic hearty

salads on page 58. Its time for food festivals too, so weve put

together a tempting list of delicious dates all around the UK on

page 87. Seafood comes into its own around the British coast in

June, and top chef William Drabble is fishing for native lobster on

page 19, while on page 46 theres a great catch of fish recipes from

gumbo and halibut steaks to skate with a nutty butter courtesy offormerMasterChefwinner and Dorset champion Mat Follas. Road

tripping around Devon in a vintage VW Camper, we taste farm-

fresh cream, crab straight from the boat and meat reared by farms

who care for their animals. The Latvian capital, Riga, is an exciting

emerging destination packed with gourmet discovery for Michael

Raffael on page 28. Then soak up inspiration for long weekends in

the hottest spots right now on page 77. And finally, turn to page 26

now to see who made the shortlist for our Reader Awards 2015

have your say today because every vote counts.

Vanessa CintiBorn in Turin,

guest sommelier

Vanessa Cinti

brings a wealth of

experience to CUT

at 45 Park Lane,

with a dash of Italian

charm. Accredited

as an Advanced

Sommelier by the

Court of Master

Sommeliers, Cinti

has also worked

at a number of

top restaurants,

including Wolfgang

Pucks Spago. Her

list at CUT has the

largest selection of

American wines in

the UK. Cin cin.

Food and Travel magazine is published by Green Pea

Publishing Ltd, The Business Centre, Suite 51, Ingate Place,

London SW8 3NS (020 7501 0511). Colour reproduction

by F1 Colour (020 7620 0644). Printed by PCP (01952

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subject to change and the publisher can take no responsibility

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user whose entries in the Data Protection Register contain

descriptions of sources and disclosures of personal data.

Imogen LepereOur newest

recruit comes

with a typically

youthful passion

for travel. Having

spent a month

in Copenhagen,

summer in

Paxos and four

months in Nepal,

were advising

she plumps for

non-dom status

after the General

Election. In

this issue, she

combines her

love of beaches

with quality pubs,

in a feature for our

Kids supplement.

Slawek KozdrasTravel photographer

Slawek has shot for

the likes of Polish

travel titlePoznaj

Swiat,won awards

from the Telegraph

and Guardian,

and visited five

continents in the

past two years. This

month, he went to

Riga in search of

caraway cheese,

waffles with caviar

and layered honey

cake. His images

(page 28) made

us fall in love with

the Latvian capitals

spires, parks and

beautiful cooking.

WINNERPPA Independent Publishing

Company of the Year

WINNERPPA Publisher of the Year

Editorsletter64

Renate RugeEditor

C

ontributors


4/164FOOD & TRAVEL4

June 2015

RECIPESTARTS ON PAGE 113

INDEX

113 Duck, cherry and tarragon salad with hazelnuts

and sweet balsamic dressing

114 Sardine rillettes with whisky and

cauliflower cream

114 Jellied ham and parsley terrine

115 Mackerel escabeche

115 Duck liver with seared melon

115 Vegetable tart with young Parmesan cream

116 Fillet of marinated salon with petis pois and

wasabi mousseline

116 Melba toast with lardo di Colonnata and

Comt cheese

116 Beetroot salad with Arabica coffee salt

117 Halibut steaks with cider cream sauce,

crackling and mash

117 Teriyaki salmon

118 Seafood gumbo

118 Stargazy pie

119 Prawn dogs with seafood ketchup

119 Skate with beurre noisette119 Dillisk ravioli of Irish smoked salmon and goats

cheese with watercress pesto

120 Fresh dillisk pasta

120 Gravlax with dill and juniper berries

120 Lamb shanks with creamy ginger potatoes

121 Free-range pork with apple, cherry and sage

stuffing and apple crisps

122 Scallop and green papaya salad with

lemongrass dressing

122 Parma ham, pear and stem ginger salad

123 Fattoush with spiced almonds

123 Honey-roasted carrots with citrus cream

123 Ossau Iraty, asparagus and crouton salad

123 Duck salad with yuzu dressing

123 Kamut with chermoula dressing

DESSERTS AND DRINKS

113 Cherry and rose petal jam

113 Cherry jelly with chocolate mousse and cream

114 Cherry, coconut and honeysuckle clafoutis

121 Apple and lavender topless tart

122 Salted caramel whiskey bread and butter

pudding with raisins

STARTERS AND MAIN COURSES 52

77

77

96

52

105

20

40

64


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48

87

93

20

40

46

52

58

26

100

106

124

ARRIVALS

Travel news Icelandic caves and

a trip on Burgundys waterways

Hotel news New openings inFrance, Italy, UK and Zanzibar

Food newsScallops, salt and new

products for barbecue season

Drinks news Manchesters bar

scene and a tequila revolution

Restaurant newsLocanda

Locatellis makeover, plus burgers,

done the French way

Kitchen confidentialWilliam

Drabble talks seasonal produce

GOURMET TRAVELS

Latvian spirit Michael Raffael tries

Baltic liqueurs and hospitality

Devon is a place on Earth Marc

Millon tucks into cheese, seafood

and cream teas in the South West

TRIED AND TASTED

Courses and deli Living off the

land at the Woodspeed Cookery

School and Boroughs Pulia deli

RestaurantsClos Den Sens, May

Fair Kitchen and The Greenhouse

go under the spotlight

Places to stay Bedding down in

Berlin, Milan, Oxfordshire, Tel Aviv

and on the shore of the Lakes

The wine column Expert Adam

Lechmere unearths the mystery

behind terroir-driven wines

8

11

12

15

17

19

28

64

101

102

104

107

TRAVEL

Sun bursts Destination

inspiration for quick sunny breaks

you wont have thought of

Food festivalsA UK round-up

of the top events this summer

48 hours Do Baku, Salisbury

and Seville in a weekend

FOOD

In season Cherries are red,

ripe and ready for plucking

Star picThree-Michelin-star

Anne-Sophie Pic creates

restaurant-grade food at home

When the boat comes in

Fish recipes fromMasterChef

winner Mat Follas

Emerald smilesTV cook

Clodagh McKenna gets down to

earth with traditional Irish dishes

Salads of substance Healthy

ideas for summer that wont

leave you wanting more

PLUS

Reader AwardsThis yearsshortlist revealed. Vote now!

CompetitionWin a Slow Food

tour of Puglia worth 3,390

Reader offers Free kids

cookery classes and upgrades

After hours Chef Nobu-san

talks about his unique style and

where he eats for inspiration

20 Cherries

28 Latvia

46Fish

58Salads

64Devon

77 Hot long weekends

87Food festivals

UK food festivals

JUNE 2015 4.40

DevonAninsidersguide

HOT LONG WEEKENDSItaly,Croatia,Greece,Turkey,Spain& Portugal

FREEKIDSspecial

Freshtwistson

Salads

48hrsin

Seville

Gourmettravell er

Latvia

FLIP MAGAZINE OVER

ACTION PACKED HOLIDAYSRECIPESANIMAL ADVENTURES BEST UKBEACHES

2015AW

ARDS

THESH

ORTLIST

ChineseFortune& flavour

Cherriesripeforthepicking

2015READER

AWARDS

JUNE 2015

FLIP MAGAZINE OVER

4.40HOT LONG WEEKENDS

Croatia,Italy,Greece,Portugal,Spain &Turkey

FREEKIDSspecialACTION PACKED HOLIDAYS RECIPESANIMAL ADVENTURESBEST UKBEACHES

UK foodfestivals

Gourmettravell er

Latvia

DevonAninsidersguide

Fishdishestoreel

themin

48hrsin

Seville

Freshtwistson

salads

Prawndogs

with

seafoodketchup

2015

AWARD

S

THESH

ORTLIST

On the cover

INSIDE

Food

cover:Steve

Painter.Travelcov

er:Shutterstock

98

46

77

28

77


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autntica heritageautntica heritage

A long and colourful history lives on in our magnificent

architecture, vibrant culture and unique, unquenchable spirit.

This is Autntica Cuba. Explore it at autenticacuba.com



P

hoto

by

Shutterstock

Arriva lsNewsand views from the worlds of food, drinkand travel

AMALFI COAST, ITALY

Dont look down. This road has induced more than its

fair share of vertigo, but the views from the top are,

quite simply, magical. As June starts, the region hits its

glorious pomp: ten hours of sun and 30C heat every

day along this 40km stretch. Its also far less busy now

than in July and August when Italian school holidays are

in full swing and tourists from the US descend. Positano

(pictured) shows the area at its blue-hued best, making

it the location for many a novel or quality TV programme

(and Entourage). Save the date for the Ravello Festival,

starting from 21 June, where the worlds very best classical

artists play at venues like the Oscar Niemeyer-designedauditorium. Or you could bag a seat at an alfresco

stage with views like this one at 365m above sea level

a performance youll remember for ever.

Stay in Sorrento to couple a visit with a northerly jaunt to

Naples and the nearby ruins of Pompeii, or base yourself

just outside Amalfi town itself at the ultra-luxe Hotel Santa

Caterina for forays to the island of Capri. Conveniently,

June also marks the time to sample the best of local lemon

variety Sfusato Amalfitano, as limoncello from the previous

years crop is unveiled. Fresh, zesty and light, we promise

its better than anything youll have tried before.


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ITALY

The ancient streets

of Cortona, Tuscany,

will be filled with

knights, ladies and

bowmen on 13

June for Archidado

Joust, a medieval

re-enactment of a

local lords opulent

wedding.giostra

archidado.com

SPAIN

Every year on

28 June, the eve of

St Peters Feast Day,

thousands of locals

climb a mountain in

La Rioja purely to

douse one another

in wine. You wont

need to bring your

own booze!

wine-fight.com

TOBAGO

Theres a party going

on 1 June at Pigeon

Point Heritage Park

with the Tobago

Culinary Festival.

The islands best

chefs are joined by

mixologists, wine

experts and swathes

of gourmands.

visittobago.gov.tt

HONG KONG

The Dragon Boat

Festival on 20 June

celebrates Chinese

statesman and

poet Qu Yuan, who

drowned himself in

278BC. Expect

a spectacular race,

partying, food and

legends. discover

hongkong.com

USA

Make Music New

York falls on 21

June, the longest

day of the year. Its

being billed as the

largest music event

in Gotham, with

acts from across the

world performing in

all five boroughs.

makemusicny.org

FOOD & TRAVEL

COLD HEARTIts warm outside but Icelands

latest, hotly anticipated attraction

has a sub-zero centre. The

man-made Ice Cave on the

Langjkull Glacier, 130km north-east of Reykjavik, opens on

1 June, taking you 200m into the

ice cap, the blue of the tunnel

walls intensifying as you penetrate

deeper, older ice. Theres a

theatrically illuminated circular

passage, 30m below the surface,

and a function room that also

serves as a wedding chapel an

essential ingredient in any modern

ice attraction, apparently along

with a bridge straddling a deep

crevasse. Tread carefully.Tours from 88 (including glacier

ride in an 8WD vehicle), icecave.is

NEWFLIGHTS

USAAmerican Airlines has just started flying from Birmingham

and Edinburgh to New York JFK. aa.com

SPAINIberia Express recently launched a new route from London

Heathrow to Tenerife North Los Rodeos, flying Tuesdays, Thursdays

and Sundays. iberiaexpress.com

MACEDONIA Wizz Air starts flying from London Luton to Ohrid

Wednesdays and Sundays from 14 June. wizzair.com

8

ArrivalsTRAVEL

Travelnews

datesDiary

WATERLOOSUNSETYou may have seen military reconstructionsat Britains stately homes, but we guarantee

youll never have witnessed anything like

Junes dramatic bicentenary of the Battle of

Waterloo. Like a Cecil B DeMille movie set,

5,000 men, 300 horses and 100 canons will

recreate Wellingtons defeat of Napoleon

near Brussels from 19 to 20 June. First is the

French advance, then the next day the Allies

counter attack, leading to victory. There will

be smoke, noise and, this being Belgium,

fabulous hotdogs. 11.50, waterloo2015.org


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TRAVELArrivals

FOOD & TRAVEL 9

Imogen Lepere seeks out smoked

sturgeon, chic design and a little

mermaid in Denmarks cool capital

in six stopsCopenhagen

While we pray for a bone-dry midsummer, June in Botswanas

Okavango Delta means floodwater. Lots of floodwater. Lubricated

by seasonal rains in the Angolan highlands, 1,200km to the west,

the inland delta fringing the Kalahari Desert swells to three

times its normal size at this time of year, attracting a prolific riot

of wildlife. For the next three months the extraordinary UnescoWorld Heritage site is best viewed from a mokoro(hollowed-

out tree canoe) or plane, before it subsides, swallowed by flora,

evaporation and, of course, thirsty animals. Eight-day Moremi

wildlife safari camping trips from 1,241pp

(excluding flights). wildaboutafrica.com

Swell safari

NAUTICALNOTESIts the perfect pairing: a serene luxury

cruise along Burgundys waterways,

and expert tuition in the regions most

precious asset. Belmonds newly launched

Wine Academy runs for three days of

the week-long trip along the Bourgogne

canals. Overseen by oenologist Pascal

Wagner, theres a lunch with 11 top-notch wines at Puligny Montrachets

Chteau Leflaive, blind tasting at Chteau

Pommard home to award-laden pinot

noir and optional hot-air balloon flights.

Its not cheap. The academy, needing at

least four people, adds 700pp to the cost

of the acclaimed seven-day cruises, which

also feature cycling and gourmet cookery

classes.From 3,600pp, belmond.com

For a potted Danish history, catch a boat

from Inderhavnen (the inner harbour) for a tour

taking in Queen Margrethes palace, the Black

Diamond a startlingly linear extension to the royal

library and the (very) Little Mermaid statue.

1Exclusive hideaway Nimb boasts its own take

on Scandi style, blending antiques, paintings

and dark wood into 17 contemporary suites.

Along with one of the citys peachiest wine cellars, it

has the Tivoli Gardens on its doorstep. hotel.nimb.dk

2Built on a reclaimed military practice ground,

the free state of Christiania embodies the

idealism of the Seventies. Its hippy-haired

hash dealers on Pusher Street may be no more, but

Copenhagens town within a city is still an enclave

of whimsical tree houses, veganism and rebellion.

3

Noma may have worn the worlds best

restaurant crown four years running, but

Copenhagen has plenty more Michelin-starred

eateries. Amass, for example, offers Matt Orlandos

spontaneous cooking; ingredients include hot

smoked sturgeon, savoy cabbage, bone marrow

and hazelnut. amassrestaurant.com

4

For industrial chic, don your duster coat

and Fjllrven bag then head to Kodbyen,

packed with hip hangouts and working

abbatoirs, where bluff butchers and beautiful people

rub shoulders over an egalitarian Danish beer.

5Set aside an afternoon for the Harbour Bath

at Islands Brygge. Its five pools are constantly

refreshed by the canals crisp water, while the

surrounding park is perfect for sipping coffee and

admiring Copenhagens spires. teambade.kk.dk

6


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OPENINGS IN

Recently opened on the islands calm and breezy western

coast, the Park Hyatt Zanzibar, zanzibar.park.hyatt.com,

has its 67 rooms and suites spread between the past and

present. Half are in a 17th-century Zanzibari mansion built around

a lush courtyard garden, and the other in a modern building with

an ocean-facing infinity pool. Guests will be slack-jawed when

they see the amount of suspended crystal in the dining room

where chef Teuku Syafrulsyah serves locally sourced food that

nods to the islands Arabian, Persian and Portuguese heritage.

The Anantara Spa and fitness centre complete this formidable

address. As expected, a refurbishment of The Goring, thegoring.

com, in time for its 105th birthday was more than just a fresh lick

of paint. Lining the mighty Front Hall, hand-painted wallpaper is a

whimsical take on the English countryside. Georgian-style furniture

complements this contemporary country manor feel that includes

full-length Gainsborough silk drapes. All 69 of the rooms and

suites have been updated. Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg, sofitel.

com, also unveiled a new look last month, after a year-long closure

and stunning renovation by designer Didier Gomez. Alongside

a Parisian aesthetic in keeping with the proliferation of designer

boutiques just outside, it also plays host to three-Michelin-star

chef Yannick Allnos new gastronomic hotspot Stay Faubourg.

First of all, there is nothing rough about

the G-Rough, a new ten-suite boutique

hotel in the centre of Rome. Any surfaceleft touched by age, any cracked glaze

or mirror freckled with a copper tarnish is

just so for a reason. Faded plasterwork

on the bedroom walls comes in a range

of delicately speckled soft pastels

subtle backdrops to the artworks that

adorn them. The attention to detail is

everywhere, including the furniture: a

mix of brightly coloured mid-century

Italian classics that pop against the

antique parquet floors and faded tiles.

Some rooms have mezzanine sleeping

quarters, and a balcony from which to

admire the rest of the space. In a few

of the suites, small, sun-splashed roof

terraces offer teasing glimpses of the

city beyond. Downstairs, the lobby level

bar is a dazzling grotto of gold tiles, cut

crystal glasses and flowers blooming

from blown-glass vases. And if thats

not enough, take a step outside the

17th-century buildings doors and you

have Piazza Navonas fountains and the

Pantheons imposing architecture to

admire. G-whizz. g-rough.com

Clockwise from top

left: Roman period

living; G-Roughs

historic facade; one

of its shabby-chic

rooms; bedding

down at Park Hyatt

Zanzibar; sailing the

calm local waters;

its beachfront

location; relax

at Sofitel Paris

Le Faubourg after

hitting the shops

WordsbyAlexAllen.

G-RoughphotobyDesignHotels

ZANZIBAR UK FRANCE ITALYHotel news

ArrivalsHOTELS


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ArrivalsFOOD

StrawPOLLWaitroses Scottish

King Scallops (29.99

per kg) are caught

by small boats off

the Shetland Islands.

Andrew Charles of the

J Charles family fishing

company says cleaning

them as soon as they

are shucked is the

secret to ensuring their

lovely white colour.

waitrose.com

SCALLOPKING

POTLUCK

Even the fussiest of guests

will enjoy a restaurant-

quality pudding, complete

with a reusable ceramic

ramekin, courtesy of the

professionally trained

chefs at Pots & Co. On

show at Taste of London

(17-21 June), the range

includes this fresh-tasting

Passion Fruit & Orange Pot(2/110g). potsandco.com

IT TAKESALL SALTS

Grand CANALESA speciality of Bordeaux, canels

have been made by French artisanssince the 17th century. Now London-

based company Babelle has added a

contemporary twist to the traditional

teatime snack, available at Fortnum

& Mason. Choose from eight flavours

including Lavender, Dulce de Leche

and Rum (2.65 each, box of four 10).

fortnumandmason.com

Nutrient-rich with

subtle umami, seaweed

has long been a choicefor cooks in the know

and is now part of the

Seaweed Seasonings

range (2.95/40g) from

Cornish Sea Salt Co. Pep

up a stir-fry with Fiery

Sea Pepper or sprinkle

Original Sea Pepper

over grilled salmon,

steak or calamari.

cornishseasalt.co.uk

One of the UKs remotest producers,

Stag Bakeries in the Outer Hebrides

gets our vote for its delicious all-

butter cheese straws, flavoured with

Scottish cheese, including Ayrshire

Bonnet and Smoked Dunlop (3.49/

100g). stagbakeries.co.uk


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Toast the summer with Luscombes

latest soft drink, handmade in

Devon by the award-winningproducer. A perfect match for those

longer days, delicate Damascene

Rose Bubbly (1.79/32cl)

celebrates the majestic rose of the

Orient. A fresh alternative to a glass

of champagne, its subtle flavour is

crafted using muscat grape juice,

rose water and Sicilian lemon

muddled with sparkling spring

water. luscombe.co.uk

Made in Manchester by a family-owned firm,

The Great British Butchers British BBQ Rub

(from 2.99/50g) adds a delicious smoky flavour

to homemade beef burgers when mixed with freshmince. Or smother it over pork ribs and grill until

dark and succulent.greatbritishbutcher.com

2Saving you time trawling the web for prime

meats, Meat Porter sources traditional, artisan

cuts from many of the free-range producers that

supply the UKs top restaurants. The BBQ Box (45)

is a new home-delivery showpiece, with something

for everyone, from hearty rump steaks (below) tolamb and mint burgers.meatporter.com

LIGHT MY

A ROSEBY ANY

OTHER NAME

3Veggies wont feel cheesed off with Marks &

Spencers Sussex-made halloumi (4/200g)

barbecued with fresh peppers. Well also be offering

our non-meat-eating guests butternut and smoked

paprika, or broccoli, leek and cheese bangers

packed with tasty Cornish Cove Cheddar (both

3/270g).marksandspencer.com

4

Keeping it British, well be looking to Essex

preserve experts Tiptree to top it all off. Revived

after a decade, its Sweet Pepper Relish (2.09/195g)

is a flavoursome mix of red and green peppers with

chunky apples and tomatoes. tiptree.com

5

1Making the most of the lighter evenings, were

ready to dust down the barbecue and don our

chefs whites for an outdoor feast, starting with

these sticky lamb belly ribs with a Yorkshire beer

glaze (pictured). 5/475g,marksandspencer.comEntrepreneur Andrew Bredon has made it his mission to

bring LA sunshine to our shores with light, feel-good fast

food. Head to his new Shoreditch eatery, Bel-Air, for open

breakfast sandwiches (pictured below) on San Francisco-style

sourdough or wheat-free dark rye bread; Muscle Beach

steak with spinach and poached egg; or signature mix-

and-match salads for a healthier lunch. bel-air.co

BREAKFASTin Bel-Air

fire


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The tequila

revolution is

well underway

and the drinkno longer

sits on the

back bar,

waiting to be

bought and

regretted.

Any number of artisan pours

are now available including

the latest, 1800 Coconut. Its

designed to be drunk

straight to show off its long,

sweet finish. Or you can

serve on the rocks withpineapple juice and lime.

29.95,31dover.com

ArrivalsDRINKS

FOOD & TRAVEL 15

Redolent of Roman

summers, VII Hills

comes from a trio of

Italian bartenders

who met at Mayfair

den Mr Foggs (Food

and Travel Bar of the

Year) and vowed

to create the best

Italian expression of

a London dry gin.

Use it to make an

all-Italian negroni.

35, viihills.co.uk

95BC the earliest record of vinhoverde, mentioned by Roman

philosopher Seneca.

35,000ha of vines for vinhoverde across the north of Portugal.

38,000 individual growers, withmany farming back garden plots

15% of Portugueseviticulture is devoted to

producing vinho verde.

VINHO VERDE

in numbers

DrinksOne of the few family-owned

Champagne houses, Billecart-Salmon

has just released its 2006 vintage,

after being matured for eight years

in chalk cellars. Its a delicious

serve with crunchy ripe fruits on

the nose and white stone fruits

on the palate. Serve it with scallops

for an excellent alfresco lunch. 62,

champagne-billecarte.com

Manchesters bar scene is fast gaining traction as

the best in the UK, with The Smithfield Social the

latest arrival in the timelessly cool Northern Quarter

as part of restaurant Bluu. We love it when a

bartender backs his skills, so Tony Lovatts menu ofjust ten cocktails resonates. Who needs a list as

long as your arm when they are this good. Try the

Queen Mary, a take on the Bloody Mary with black

pudding and bacon; or Smithfield Punch for two,

with gin, pear liqueur and pear vodka.bluu.co.uk

news

GIN HANDS

Naming a whisky after a Norse

god who lost an eye in the

thirst for wisdom may seem a

little peculiar, but its the final

installment of the Valhalla

Collection from Highland Park.

Odin joins Thor, Loki and

Freya, and the 16-year-old

single malt is powerful, with

gentle, smoky peat aromas.

180, highlandpark.co.uk

DRSORDERS

Just opened

in east London is

Tonic & Remedy, a bar

championing cocktails

based on centuries-old

recipes. The space is set

over a ground floor and

mezzanine, with space for

dining and a kitchen manned

by chef Paul Welburn. Try

the apothecary cocktail:

based on a herbal

liqueur, cooked with

rosemary and

sweetened with

butterscotch jam.

tonicand

Mancuniancandidate

I shouldCOCO

God OF POUR

LEAPINGSALMON


16/164

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From 1,095pp

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17/164

ArrivalsRESTAURANTS

17

Just landed in Manchesters

imposing Courthouse building

is the first Hawksmoor restaurant

outside London. It took owners

Will Beckett and Huw Gott years

to find a site but the 130-cover

space has been worth the wait.

The usual stellar steaks are here,

though plenty is bespoke. Short-

rib macaroni and veal rump with

fried oysters are great, and the

poutineis a Montreal-meets-

Manchester chip butty, with

cheese curds and extra gravy for

dipping. thehawksmoor.com

Locanda Locatelli

has reopened with

a 1 million makeover

after a gas explosion at

The Churchill hotel last

November. Expect the

same Italian classics

like lobster linguine

and bean pappardelle

that earned its regard.

locandalocatelli.com

FOOD & TRAVEL

Reclaimed

stripped wood

makes up the

floors and bar,

while quirkier

touchesinclude Kilner

jar light shades

that give a nod

to the name

For teams new to the industry, its a bold move to take on

the renovation, design and front-of-house management

of a restaurant. Lucy Brown, previously in fashion, and

Jenny Quintero, fresh out of publishing, took on their Drury

Lane project, Jar Kitchen, last year and have been wielding

hammer, chisel and sandpaper since. The results are quite

remarkable. Theyve created a laid-back space very much in

the modern London mould. Reclaimed stripped wood makes

up the floors and bar, while quirkier touches include Kilner jar

light shades that give a nod to the restaurants name. In the

kitchen, Dominik Moldenhauer (above, left), formerly of Dinner

by Heston Blumenthal, focuses on modern British classics.

For breakfast, expect slow-cooked duck egg with pease

pudding, grilled ham and brioche, or truffled mushroom

omelette with goats cheese and caramelised shallots. Its

open all day, with the lunch offering light and fresh, and a

dinner menu featuring pasta made in-house and some

standout fish dishes. Whether the restaurant world will be as

fickle as fashion, the girls are about to find out. jarkitchen.com

LOCATELLILOOKS AHEAD

Restaurantnews

Weve had American, Indian and even Japanese burgers.

Now its time for the French invasion. Big Fernand

launched in March as a French hamburger workshop,

claiming to offer 3,840 Continental combinations for its

meat in an artisan bun. The cheese is the real pull, so top

yours with unpasteurised French favourites like Tomme

de Savoie from the Alps, oozing raclette or pasteurised

Fourme dAmbert. bigfernand.com

FRENCHFANCY

HAWKS FLY NORTH

FreshoutthejarBLIXSPIRITFast becoming a restaurant hotbed

to rival Soho, Old Spitalfields Mar ket

has just seen the opening of Blixen, in

a former bank. Its up there with the

chicest spaces weve seen this year:

points being added for vaulted

ceilings, huge light fittings and some

of the best-dressed staff in town. Forbrunch, dont miss the blueberry

pancakes. At dinner, squid, chorizo

and chickpea stew followed by almond

ice cream is a must. blixen.co.uk


18/164

Botswana Tourism,

6 Stratford Place,

London, W1C 1AY

+44 (0)207 647 [email protected]

botswanatourism.org.uk

Our UNESCO World Heritagelisting ensures...

pristine landscapes and

exclusive wildlife sightings.


19/164

Williamsrecipefor June

Interview

byRenateRuge

IN SEASONArrivals

To make my white chocolate pots with yoghurt,

lemon verbena and raspberries, for 4, first bring

300ml double cream and bunch lemon

verbena to the boil. Cover with cling film and

leave to infuse for 1-2 hours. Break 420g white

chocolate into a bowl. Bring the cream back to

the boil, then sieve it into the bowl with the

chocolate, stirring until melted. Leave to cool

slightly, then stir in 370ml natural yoghurt. Pour

the mixture into 4 martini glasses, or similar, and

place in the fridge until set. Make a syrup by

whisking 100g sugar with 100ml water in a small

pan. Add a handful of lemon verbena and bring

to the boil until syrupy. Cool, then remove the

lemon verbena. Top each glass with a handful of

raspberries and drizzle with some syrup. Enjoy!

UK produce shines in June, says Michelin-starred chef William Drabble,

who recalls a childhood spent picking fruits and fishing in rock pools

I foraged

for wild

berries in thehedgerows

eating

produce there

and then is

the best way

to enjoy it

What Im cooking with

At its peakAsparagus, blackcurrants,

broad beans, brown crab,

carrots, cherries, coley, dill,

elderflower, fennel, globe

artichokes, gooseberries,

lamb, lemon verbena,

lettuce, loganberries,

mint, native lobster,

peas, pollack, radishes,raspberries, redcurrants,

rhubarb, runner beans,

sardines, sea bass, sea

trout, sole, strawberries,

tarragon, watercress

Also availableBeetroot, courgettes,

Jersey Royals, mackerel,

marjoram, quail, red mullet,

sage, scallops, sea kale,

turnips, veal

Kitchenconfidential

Whats in

You have a dazzling seasonal array

this month omega-3-rich mackerel,

broad beans and peas, earthy

beetroot. Its a fruit festival of perfectraspberries, tangy gooseberries and

succulent strawberries too. Herb-

wise, lemon verbena is growing like

wildfire in my garden in Wandsworth.

We use it in a dessert at my restaurant,

Seven Park Place, where cream is

infused with lemon verbenas delicate

zesty flavour, then combined with

yoghurt and served with raspberries

(see recipe). I like to use cherries too,

maybe in a warm tart where the fruit is

pitted and halved, and poached in

red wine and port for the filling.

The British seaside is a treasure

trove. I remember fishing for crabs in

Cromer and shrimping in rock pools

as a youngster. This month, I will

make a carpaccio of scallops, served

simply with cherry tomatoes and

basil. We all crave lightness of flavour

in summer, and you cant beat salads

with garden peas, broad beans and

the last of the asparagus straight from

the farm. Simple cooking is best, so

you can get outside in the sunshine.

I work closely with suppliers to

source the best of British all

traceable and responsibly sourced.

I find out whats at its best on the day.

Scallops and langoustines come

from Scotland and fish is caught from

the south coast in Brixham and

Poole. Fish is good now: turbot, sea

bass and my favourite, the native

lobster. It is fantastic, with firm flesh

and sweet meat and it hails from

our shores. I make a warm lobster

salad with peas, beans, watercress,

mustard leaves and chard and

warmed new potatoes. Depending

on the weather, the lobster comes

from Dorset or Scotland, its tail

poached and sliced on top of the

salad. Stock from lobster shells, with

wine and brandy, makes for a brightred lobster salad dressing.

When I was nine, we moved to

Norfolk and a house in the middle of

a field. I foraged for wild berries in the

hedgerows picking and eating

produce there and then is the best

way to enjoy it. When cooking your

bounty, its about having respect for

good ingredients. Cook them well

and be creative. Seasonality is so

important food is at its best and the

price is too.sevenparkplace.com

Who Im usingCornvale for meat from the Lake

District, Channel Fisheries, Keltic

Seafare for my scallops and lobster,

Solstice in London for vegetables,

and Paxton & Whitfield, the UKs

oldest cheese shop.

19FOOD & TRAVEL


20/164

CherriesThe juicy cherry is now ripe for picking. Partner the fruit

with seasonal flowers in jellies, jam and clafoutis, says

Clarissa Hyman, or use as a foil for rich duck in a saladRECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY

PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES

FOOD & TRAVEL20


21/164

CHERRY AND ROSE

PETAL JAM

RECIPES START ON PAGE 113

IN SEASON

FOOD & TRAVEL 21


22/164FOOD & TRAVEL22

Never take two bites at a cherry

take it all is a proverb thats been

around since the 16th century.

Traverse City, Michigan, claims to

be the cherry capital of the worldand hosts an annual National Cherry

Festival in July.

Because cherries have a high

potassium content, they have always

been recommended as a diuretic.

Chop cherry was a popular

game that involved lovers trying

to bite a cherry while it was still on

the tree. It is thought that this is

where the phrase two bites at the

cherry comes from.

&Wit wisdom Awise man once said it is invariably

the case when faced with a bowl

of cherries, you begin by choosing

the best and end up by eating them all.

Life may be more than the proverbial

bowl of cherries, but the observation

rings true; cherries ripe, cherries ruby-red

and purple-black, their taut skin bursting

with sweet juice, are exquisitely desirable.

Unsurprising, then, to discover that scarlet-

mouthed cherry-eating competitions were

a popular diversion in Kentish gardens

during the reign of King James I. According

to records, one young woman managed

20 pounds before succumbing to a severe

illness. A 16th-century understatement.

According to a popular legend proposed

by Pliny the Elder, cherries were first

introduced to Europe by the general and

gourmet, Lucullus. Except Pliny was wrong:

Tart Morello cherries

are inky-dark and

this makes them

essential for black

cherry jam, Black

Forest gateau, cherry

strudel and kirsch

FOOD & TRAVEL22

cherries were already being cultivated in

Italy by the Etruscans, having arrived there

from northeastern Asia via Asia Minor. To

be fair, Lucullus might have brought back

a special variety of cherry from Cerasus

in Turkey, and it is an easy stretch of theimagination to trace the origin of the English

word from this fruit-growing city.

Turkey is still the worlds largest

commercial producer of both sweet and

sour fruit, but homegrown cherries are

becoming more sought-after. In England,

the trees are highly susceptible to our

unpredictable weather, yields can vary from

year to year and the growing season is

short, from February to March all factors

that have contributed to the grubbing out of

swathes of cherry orchards. This trend is

starting to reverse, though, as consumers

rediscover the pleasures of plump and

juicy English cherries that grow at their

best in the well-drained, sandy soil of Kent.

Harvesting the delicate, short-lived fruit,

however, remains an issue: ideally, it should

be hand-picked to avoid damage hence

the term cherry picker although these

days mechanised shakers are also used.

Cherries belong to the genus Prunus,

which also includes plums, peaches and

apricots. Cultivated cherries are descended

from two wild species: Prunus avium,

ancestor of the sweet varieties, andPrunus

cerasus, from which sour cherries come.

The former, also known as bird cherry, is

a reminder that one of the chief difficulties

faced by the cherry grower is to harvest

the fruit before the birds do. At one time,

cats were raised aloft in cages to scare

off thieving birds.

There are hundreds of varieties of sweet

cherry in cultivation: with their skin colours

varying from dark red to almost white or

yellow; the meat from white to dark red; the

hearts white and black; and the juice from

transparent to dark red.

The Napoleon, a variety that is light red

and yellow in colour,

WHOLE CHERRY

JELLY WITH

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

AND CREAM

F&TWINE MATCH

Sparkling pink and floralItalian brachetto

(eg 2012 BrachettodAcqui, Contero)

IN SEASON


23/164

DUCK, CHERRY AND

TARRAGON SALADWITH HAZELNUTS

F&TWINE MATCH

Earthy and fruityHungarian red (eg 2012Egri Bikaver, Bolyki)


FOOD & TRAVEL 23



IN SEASON

is widely popular, as is delicately sweet,

scarlet and cream Rainier. Bing, which an

American grower named after his Chinese

workman, is the leading variety in the US.

In the UK, commonly grown varieties include

large, juicy Stella, but it is worth looking out

for rarer ones such as red-fleshed Merton

Bigarreau and large, black Early Rivers.

Sour cherries usually grow on smaller

trees than sweet cherries. There are

about 300 cultivated varieties, most of

which are used for cooking and liqueurs.

Tart Morello cherries are inky-dark, almost

black essential for black cherry jam, Black

Forest gateau, cherry strudel and kirsch.

Categories of sour red cherry include

amarelles or griottes. The latter gives its

name to a speciality of the Franche-Comt,

in which each fruit is enclosed with kirsch

in a chocolate covering. The Montmorencyvariety was once considered the finest

in France but is now a rarity despite the

annual Fte de la Cerise in Ile-de-France.

Crosses between sweet and sour cherries

are known as dukes, orbastardkirschen in

German androyalein French.

The small and very sour Marasca or

Maraschino cherry was originally grown in

Dalmatia (now Croatia), where it was made

into maraschino liqueur. The cherry stones

are crushed to release the almond taste

of the kernels, in contrast to kirsch, where

the stones are left whole. Maraschino

cherries in syrup are prepared by stoning

and bleaching cherries, then adding syrup,

bitter almond oil and red or green colouring.

Candied glac cherries are often dyed as

well and, given the large amount of sugar,

glucose syrup and preservatives added,

can be far removed from the original fruit.

Cherry pies have achieved iconic status

in middle America not just as a result of

the 1980s film Can She Bake a Cherry Pie?

but also for the fruits versatility. It can be

made into jam, crystallised or bottled in eau-

de-vie, kirsch or cherry syrup. Cherries also

make gorgeous desserts: think compotes,

crumbles and clafoutis. Meat dishes with

fresh or dried sour cherries exist in many

cuisines, such as Turkish and Iranian, giving

dishes a pleasantly tart flavour, while cherry

soups and sauces are popular in northern

and eastern Europe.

The cherry has inspired poets and

painters, but the strangest compulsion is

the urge to spit the stones. According to

Guinness World Records, the longest spit is

28.51m: by a contestant at the International

Cherry Pit-Spitting Championship at Eau

Claire, Michigan, USA, in 2004. Personally,

I prefer to leave it to the birds.

FOOD & TRAVEL24

CHERRY, COCONUT AND

HONEYSUCKLE CLAFOUTIS

F&TWINE MATCH

Fragrant with floral notes andlight acidity Japanese sake(eg Marigold, Amabuki)

In medieval art, cherriesrepresented a sweet, pleasing

character, and the delights of

the blessed.

Native Americans used dried resinfrom cherry trees trunks as chewing

gum and heated the sap for glue.

In 1533, Henry VIII sent his RoyalFruiterer to Flanders to find new

cherry varieties and bring them

back to England.

Cherries are rich in antioxidantsand anthocyanins. The latter have

anti-inflammatory properties, so

can help with the treatment of gout,

arthritis and sports injuries.

&Wit wisdom

RECIPES START ON PAGE 119RECIPES START ON PAGE 113

IN SEASON

Cherriescourtesyofgarsons.co.u

k


25/164

E X P L O R E I T A N D O T H E R D E L I G H T

H E R E I N T E X A S , B B Q I S A

OBSESSIONA N D T H E O N L Y

CURE FOR IT

2015 Offi ce of the Governor, Economi c Development an d Tourism.

MAY INDUCE EUPHORIA


26/164

THE

READERAWARDS

M A G A Z I N E


27/164

THE SHORTLIST

FOOD & TRAVEL 27

Its here the shortlist for the fourth annualReader Awards. Be sure to have your say,

by voting for your food, drink and travelfavourites atfoodandtravel.com/awards

FROM THE EDITOR

Over the past two months, weve been asking you to

nominate your favourites in the world of food, drink

and travel and did you ever deliver! From the basis of

thousands of entries we have compiled the shortlist for

our 2015 Reader Awards, which youll find both here

and on our website, foodandtravel.com. Now its the final

voting round to decide who will be the winners. Simplygo online and choose your favourites from the shortlisted

candidates, and those with the largest number of votes

on the closing date will be crowned the winners at our

presentation ceremony in September. So whether its the

tour operator thats given you the experience of a lifetime,

the hotel thats gone the extra mile to make your stay

special, or the unforgettable meal from that exciting new

restaurant, visit foodandtravel.comnow and get voting

because its you who decides.Renate Ruge

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

Votes in the following categories

will decide the Food and Travel

Restaurant of the Year

London

Fera at Claridges, Hedone,

The Ledbury, Lima, Pizarro

(Bermondsey), Pollen St Social

Outside London

LEnculme (Cartmel), The

Gunton Arms (Norwich),

Northcote (Blackburn),Paul Ainsworth (Padstow),

The Terrace at Montague

Arms (Brockenhurst), The

Wheatsheaf (Northleach)

Timeless classic

Bibendum, Chez Bruce,

Le Gavroche, The

Greenhouse, The River Caf

(all London), Champany

Inn (Linlithgow)

Newcomer

Adam Handling at Caxton,Beast, Blacklock, Mazi, The

New Angel, Spring

BAR OF THE YEAR

Galante, The Blind Pig,

London Cocktail Club,

Marks Bar (Soho), Mortons,

Rumpus Room, Sushisamba

(all London), Bon Vivant

(Edinburgh)

HOTEL OF THE YEAR

Votes in the following categories

will decide the overall Food and

Travel Hotel of the Year

Gourmet bolthole

The Beckford Arms (Fonthill),

Crown & Garter (Inkpen), The

Great House (Lavenham),

Restaurant Sat Bains

(Nottingham), Tulse Hill

Hotel (London)

RuralGravetye Manor (East

Grinstead), Kinloch

Lodge (Skye), Langar Hall

(Nottingham), Lime Wood (New

Forest), Torridon (Wester Ross)

City

The Berkeley, Claridges, Ham

Yard Hotel, Mandarin Oriental

(all London), One Devonshire

Gardens (Glasgow)

Bed and breakfast

15 Glasgow, Bryn Afon(Conwy), Glangwili Mansion

(Carmarthenshire), Greystones

(Oban), Headland House

(St Ives), Millers64 (Edinburgh)

International hotel

137 Pillars (Thailand), The

Aleenta (Thailand), The Atlantic

(Jersey), The Lowell (New

York), The Norman (Tel Aviv),

The Yeatman (Portugal)

TOUR OPERATOROF THE YEAR

Abercombie & Kent, Exodus,

Gourmet on Tour, Inghams,

Inntravel, Journey Latin Ameria,

Kuoni, Rainbow Tours

SPECIALIST RETAILEROF THE YEAR

Amaretto, Holwood Farm

Shop, Hunters of Helmsley,

Neals Yard, Newlyns Farm

Shop, Lina Stores, Thyme

& Tides Deli

BOOK OF THE YEAR

Before They Pass Away (Jimmy

Nelson),Best Ever Dishes(Tom

Kerridge),Cracking Yolks and

Pig Tales(Glynn Purnell),Duck

and Waffle (Daniel Doherty),

Fish and Shellfish(Rick Stein),

Persiana (Sabrina Ghayour),

Plenty More(Yotam Ottolenghi)

CRUISE LINE OF THE YEAR

Votes in the following

categories will decide the

overall Cruise Line of the Year

Ocean

Celebrity Cruises, Crystal,

Cunard, Hurtigruten, Windstar

River

AmaWaterways, Pandaw,

Uniworld, Viking River CruisesSmall ship/Adventure

Azamara, Hebridean Island

Cruises, Oceania, Regent

Seven Seas, Silversea

COOKERY SCHOOLOF THE YEAR

Cactus Kitchen, Eckington

Manor, Leiths, Lucknam Park,

Swinton Park, Tante Marie,

Thyme Cookery School

SHORT-HAUL AIRLINEOF THE YEAR

BA, EasyJet, Flybe, Wizz Air

LONG-HAUL AIRLINEOF THE YEAR

BA, Emirates, Etihad,

Qatar Airways

CHEF OF THE YEAR

Brett Graham, Jason Atherton,

Jos Pizarro, Marcus Wareing,

Mark Sargeant, Michel Roux Jr,

Nathan Outlaw, Tom Kerridge

DESTINATION OFTHE YEAR

Australia, Greece, Italy, Mexico,

New Zealand, Spain, Thailand,

Turkey, UK, USA

CITY OF THE YEARBarcelona, Edinburgh, Hong

Kong, Istanbul, London,

Marrakech, Montreal, New

York, Porto, San Sebastian

BREAKTHROUGHCHEF OF THE YEAR

An industry-voted award

for a UK-based chef, who

will be revealed at our

awards ceremony



PHOTOGRAPHY BY SLAWEK KOZDRAS

LATVIAN

A renaissance in artisan food and wines, innovativechefs and produce that defines the city have all helped

to shape Rigas new personality. Steel yourself for

a punchy shot of the bittersweet Black Balsam liqueur

in this vibrant Baltic capital, says Michael Raffael

spirit

bove: admiring the church

pires in Rigas Old Town.

Opposite: the terrace of theiblioteka No 1 restaurant



RIGAGOURMET TRAVELLER



They tell me Riga is the nicest place in the world, wrote

the composer Richard Wagner, before adding, especially

when it comes to earning money. Latvias capital certainly

prospered back in 1837. When Wagner settled here it was the

most important port in the Russian Empire. Since the collapse

of the Soviet Union, and resulting independence, it has regained

its vitality and chutzpah, to the extent that last year it wascrowned European Capital of Culture. Through those long summer

nights, it never seems to sleep.

However much Rigans love their city and nearly a third of

Latvias population beds down here their affection also extends to

the landscape of forests, lakes and sandy beaches edging the

Baltic Sea that surrounds them. They are citizens who have kept in

touch with the myths and magic of their pagan past.

A green core of parks separates the Old Town to the east of the

Daugava River from one of the citys most beautiful streets, Alberta

Iela, where the extravagant jugendstil (art nouveau) apartments

were designed by architect Mikhail Eisenstein, father ofBattleship

Potemkinfilmmaker Sergei Mikhailovich Eisenstein. In an area small

enough to navigate on foot, these masterpieces are the legacy of

Rigas past as a global trading hub that supplied hemp for ropes

and timber masts for Nelsons fleet at Trafalgar. Their elegance is

a counterpoint to the citys stark, grid-like Soviet blocks.

Spared the backdrop of traffic noise, the Old Town is a quarter

where music is always bubbling to the surface and echoing down

alleys. By the Freedom Monument, built to honour those who fell in

the 1918-1920 Latvian War of Independence, a busker squeezes

his accordion. Along the Esplanade, a snake of schoolchildren on

their way to choir practice bang out a Buena Vista Social Club ditty.

In front of St Peters Church, dating from 1209, a trio improvises cool

jazz for revellers drinking beer and vodka at tables set out on the

cobbled square. By the Powder Tower, all that remains of Rigas

walled fortifications, folk singers look like musicians at a Breugel

wedding. Theirs could be the traditional Latvian drinking song: While

brewing the beer/I put a bee in my pocket/So that the ale-drinkers

would sing/Like bees buzzing in a hive.

Rigas Central Market, the largest in Europe, was built during the

1920s from redundant Zeppelin hangars. One area specialises in

meat, another dairy produce and a third pickles. Maris Astics, chef

at one of Rigas top hotels, Dome, comes here to buy fish: I want

local, local, local. Im here today and Ill be here tomorrow and the

next day. We can buy fish from the sea, from the lake and the r iver.

This is in no way an idle boast. Under the arched roof, he can

indeed find fresh Baltic cod, Arctic char, wild catfish from the

Daugava river, sturgeon, pike-perch, eels and fresh, pickled or

dried herrings: When people go to the sauna, they take these.

Maris prefers to buy his eels live, skewering and smoking them with

wood shavings that his parents bring

XXXXXX

Travel information

Left to right: Latvian

cuisine at Restaurant

Renomm in the Gallery

Park Hotel; Rigas

Freedom Monument; rye

waffle with caviar atRenomm. Below: dried

fish from a Central

Market stall. Opposite:

paddle boarding along

the Daugava river

Currency in Latvia is the euro and the time is two hours ahead of the

UK. Summers are warm, and you can expect average highs of 20C

in June. Flight duration from the UK is about 2 hours 30 minutes.

GETTING THEREBritish Airwaysoperates direct daily flights from London Gatwick

and London Heathrow to Riga. ba.comRyanair offers direct daily flights from London Stansted. ryanair.com

RESOURCESLatvias tourist board has a wealth of information about Riga

and the country as a whole, including shopping, entertainment and

sightseeing. You can also find hotels, restaurants and bars. latvia.travel

FURTHER READING

The Food and Cooking of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuaniaby

Silvena Johen Lauta (Aquamarine, 15.99). A Baltic bible of classic

cuisine, which contains more than 60 traditional Latvian recipes.

CARBON COUNTING

Return flights from London Heathrow to Riga produce 0.38 tonnes

of CO2, which can be offset via Climate Care at a cost of 2.83.

Donations will go towards supporting environmental projects

around the world. For more information, visit climatecare.org



GOURMET TRAVELLERXXXXXX



from their farm near the Lithuanian border. This bucolic childhood

has definitely shaped him, Maris explains. My life was very different

from chefs who have always lived in town. They dont know how

animals are raised, or what they eat, but I know everything aboutthem from when they are born until they get to a restaurant kitchen.

We had cows, rabbits, pigs, chickens. Every summer we would

go to the forest for mushrooms and we would hunt deer and elk

or wild boar and catch fish in the lake.

Outside the vast covered market, fruit and vegetable stalls groan

under the weight of berries. To Latvians, fruits of the forest means

just that. In season, wild blueberries, button-sized strawberries or

raspberries, cranberries and cloudberries all carpet the forest floor.

Foraging for these comes second only to mushrooming. The price

of a kilo of chanterelles, only about 3, should be a clue as to

how abundant they are. Latvias government-controlled Forestry

Commission holds annual competitions for fungi hunters, who

scavenge through the night armed with torch and knife.

One of them, lawyer Janis Gutmanis, uses the commissions app

when taking a morning out of his office to unearth mushrooms. It lists

300 edible species, balanced against 30 poisonous ones, but Janis

sticks to what he knows. Today, he says, the weather is too dry;

it should be warm and damp. However, adverse conditions dont

prevent him from gathering enough yellow chanterelles for a meal.

He still has some from the previous season, pickled with juniper

berries, cloves and onion rings. Next month, porcini will be in

season: hell dry those he cant eat fresh, or powder them for soups.

Honey is another passion for Janis. In Ramava, 20 minutes drive

from Riga, he keeps two beehives in a cousins garden. With luck,

they will yield enough honey for family and friends. He belongs to a

generation thats shaping the countrys future. Under communism,

shelves were bare. A typical joke of the time goes: Two Latvians

look at a cloud. One sees the impossible dream; the other sees a

potato. Its the same cloud. When that era was over, people rushed

to the supermarkets that were opening everywhere. Now, they skip

backwards to embrace the nations pre-Soviet customs.

Produce markets are another way of acknowledging this food

heritage. In Rigas Kalnciema quarter a neighbourhood of wooden

clapboard houses, some decaying, some restored and a few

new-builds there is a weekly gastronomic fair. It brings together

characters like Gurta, who slaughters her own pigs and cures the

meat in her chimney; a New Age hemp-seed butter producer; a

man making sea buckthorn berry sweets; and celebrity chef Martins

Ritins, who sells beef burgers from his herd of Highland cattle.

At Straupe Farmers Market in Placis, on the main A3 road

to Valmiera, the malted fruit bread baked in

Where to eatPrices are for three courses including drinks, unless otherwise stated.

3PavaruIf this is the face of Riga in the making, then bring it on.Relaxed, clever and tasty, it borrows tricks from other star chefs acrossthe globe, but never loses sight of its roots. 33. 4 Torna Iela, JekabaKazarmas 2b, 00 371 2037 0537, 3pavari.lv

Biblioteka No 1Probably Rigas most polished restaurant, it overlooks

a park and the local materials are handled carefully and with precision.48. 2 Terbatas Iela, 00 371 2022 5000, restoransbiblioteka.lv/enEcocateringTelpaSit with Latvians and barely a foreigner. Young andhip, with good, unadulterated grub. Brunch from 5; dinner 15, both

excluding drinks. 8 Matisa Iela, 00 371 2037 1170, ecocatering.lv/en/Laucu Akmens If you can find it on the map (off the A1), stop here for

home cooking thats fresh and unashamedly Latvian. 15. Limbazu Nov,Skultes Pag, Lauci, 00 371 6406 5423, laucakmens.lvValtera RestoransNext to Dome Hotel, this bistro-restaurant has a

modern setting, a dedicated chef-patron and an experienced matre d.29. 8 Miesnieku Iela, 00 371 2952 9200, valterarestorans.lv/en/Vincents The flagship of Martins Ritins, who is Rigas best-known chefand a champion of Slow Food. Ingredients are sourced from local

organic farmers wherever possible and the menu changes each week.44. Karla Ulmana Gatve 114a, 00 371 6750 0200, vincents.lv/en

Opposite: ox consomm

at Dikli Palace; Gallery Park

Hotel. Below, from left:

risotto at Biblioteka No 1;

House of the Blackheads;

Valmiermuiza beer; chef

Maris Astics; Neiburgs hotel


Left to right: the Three Brothers houses; a fish platter at Le Dome



GOURMET TRAVELLERTICINO

a wood-fired oven is remarkable. So is the chokeberry jam, the

aged, two-year-old gouda, the buttermilk ice cream, the uniflora

wild raspberry honey, the soured cream, and the cottage cheese.

This renaissance in artisan production isnt confined to food.

Fruit wine makers are also burgeoning. One of them specialises in

apple eiswein; another sells sparkling wine made from birch sap;

Zilver winery really does make a semi-sweet lilac wine as well as

a quince varietal. Beer, too, is innovative and exciting: Labietis

microbrewery flavours its hoppy brews with heather, coriander,juniper and lemongrass, while Valmiermuiza brewery, based on the

site of a 17th-century Swedish mansion, brews a mahogany

signature beer from malt smoked over wood shavings. It tastes

a little bit like Laphroaig peaty and delicious.

Bread is another staple of Latvian life. But dense, dark rye bread,

its crust the colour of molasses, is more than simply the staff of life.

It links old and new; its a wedding gift. When a couple moves into

a new home, guests bring a loaf as a blessing. Eaten with caraway

cheese, it helps soak up the alcohol downed during Ligo, the

midsummer solstice festivities. When Iveta Ludina bought the

rundown 18th-century Liepupe Manor to convert into a country

house hotel, she installed a wood oven just for the bread. It takes

a day to fire until its hot enough for baking. When I was small,

if I dropped my bread, I had to kiss it, she says.

Such reverence extends to recipes. Rupjmaizes kartojums,

layered bread pudding, has as many versions as there are cooks.

Combine the crumbled rye with berry juice or jam, cream or cottage

cheese, thats it. Latvias celebrity chefs are also bringing their

nations food bang up to date. Martins Sirmais travels the world

as a TV chef but when hes in Latvia he cooks with partners Juris

Dukalkis and Eriks Dreibants at 3Pavaru in the Old Town of Riga.

From splashes of coloured sauces painted on a paper sheet at the

dining table to cooks doubling as waiters, its the nearest thing

Riga has to cutting-edge cuisine. His other restaurant is called

3 Nai (3 Knives). Needless to say, it attracts comments.

Until the recession struck in 2008, Martins says, Russians

financed the restaurants. They came, made designs, hired chefs

and laundered the money or did it for pleasure so they could say

this is mine. After the financial crisis they went back to Moscow.

Martins and his two friends set up shop with second-hand

furniture, a couple of coats of paint and no backers. They had the

key advantage of having worked abroad. He believes that the

current training for youngsters who want to cook professionally falls

short. Colleges still teach the recipes from Soviet times, so there

are no roots for the younger generation.

Martins cuisine relies on the gadgetry and cooking style of

global restaurants the world over: Thermomix, sous-vide packaging

and slow-cooked trickery are in evidence. So its disarming when

he shakes a siphon like a barista and shoots frothy crab bisque

over cod and scallops for a customer, or spoons hemp-seed

dressing over slices of goats cheese.

Where to shop

Anna PannaHer bespoke baking courses will teach you how to make

cakes that taste as good as those of her idol, Mary Berry. Enjoy a tasteof Annas cooking with her Layered Honey Cake. annapanna.lv

Desa & CoThe shop specialises in charcuterie made from reindeermeat and its salami stands comparison with the best French, Italian

or Hungarian equivalents. Theres a little bistro for sampling too.4 Maskavas Iela, 00 371 6721 6186

Pienene Its in the centre of the Old Town and has quality crafted

products, from linen to cosmetics via ceramics, but the quality isgood and the caf a haven of relaxation. 7/9 Kungu Iela (oppositeSt Peters Church), 00 371 6721 0400Riga Black Magic Bar Yes its a cheesy tourist shop, but Riga Black

Balsam is popular in Latvia, especially in winter when locals mix it withblackcurrant. 10 Kalku Iela, 00 371 6722 2877, blackmagic.lv

Clockwise from top left:

potatoes at Straupe

Farmers Market;

winemaker Janis Zilvers;

Anna Panna; Old Town;

Pannas honey cake

Opposite, clockwise

from top left: gherkins

at Ecocatering Telpa;

garlic from Central

Market; chef Martins

Ritins (right); Janis

Zilvers family estate;

the banks of the Baltic;

waterside at Zilvers

place; sturgeon at LaucuAkmens; fishing near

Dikli Palace



and its fried whole with parsnips. A buttery slab of sturgeon is lightly browned and meaty

At Laucu Akmens, an hour from the city, the fisherman has just brought some pike-perch



Nearly all menus are available in

English and most Latvians study

the language at school. Youll buy

bread, mushrooms or berries at

the markets on appearance, so

theres no need to worry about

having the correct pronunciation.

AronijasChokeberries

Auksta zupaTranslates as cold

soup but usually means beetroot

with gherkin, dill and kefir

AvenesRaspberries

ErkskogasGooseberries

JanogasRedcurrants

LacenesCloudberries

Food Glossary

Dining out in Latvia can reveal eclectic edible surprises: poached

strawberries with roast veal, or rye waffles with caviar-filled pockets.

Ecocatering Telpa uses organic ingredients grown on local farms

and the restaurant is among the most palatable of this new wave.

The entrance is an adventure in itself, taking you through a courtyard

and above a bicycle repair shop.

The dining area (open in summer) is a wooden gallery, clamped

to the side of the building. Before it opens to the public, the kitchen

prepares and delivers organic food to kindergarten. Its 5brunch is

self-service and comes with delicious salads like sticky caramelisedonions mixed with berries or wild mushrooms, new potatoes baked

in their skins with herbs, and the best-ever salted cucumber. On the

table is one bowl of tiny carrots and another of gooseberries.

Further afield, finding Laucu Akmens is a test without sat-nav. An

hour from the city, its then 2km along a track to a campsite and

guesthouse by a sandy beach. Here they serve chilled beetroot soup

made with kefir, dill and pickled gherkin. This is practically Latvias

national dish. It certainly deserves to be. The fisherman has just

brought some pike-perch and its dished up fried whole with roasted

parsnips. A buttery slab of sturgeon is lightly browned and meaty.

Surprisingly, Latvias rollercoaster economy has had a positive

effect on the modern mindset. Although the recession wiped out

20 per cent of the economy, recovery has been dramatic. The

traditional outlets remain, such as the Black Magic Bar, selling the

almost medicinal herbal liqueur Riga Black Balsam to tourists, but

as a counterpoint to these there are sleek caf-shops like Pienene,

where fresh herb teas and wild berry smoothies sell alongside

buckwheat pillows and edible-sounding cosmetics All day and

night cream with birch and blueberry extracts.

This new era has spawned a new breed of entrepreneurs. Anna

Panna describes herself as a graduate of the YouTube academy.

Daughter of a famous designer, she gives bespoke cookery

courses on Latvian baking from a studio kitchen (her layered honey

cake alone deserves a feature). Desa & Co, a bistro-charcuterie in

a restored warehouse abutting the Daugava, is the retail outlet of a

reindeer rancher, while winemaker Janis Zilvers admits that before

the downturn he was planning a career in a cushy office job. Rigans

learn fast, an essential skill for survivors. Martins Sirmais isnt joking

when he says: My son is six and already knows more about the

ingredients in the kitchen than I did when I was 16. They also share

a united we stand mentality. If the 3Pavaru runs out of salt (it can

happen), Maris Astics at Dome helps out.

This work in progress approach is reflected in a local proverbial

saying: When Riga is completed, it will fall into the Daugava. Like

its architecture, where Hanseatic gothic spires jostle with High

Dutch townhouses and art nouveau apartment blocks, the city is

restless and changing. Someone will soon coin the phrase New

Baltic Cuisine. It will probably be an astute Latvian chef.

Michael Raffael and Slawek Kozdras travelled courtesy of Latvian

Tourism Development Agency. For more details, see latvia.travel

Above: locals enjoying the calming environs of Bastejkalna park.

Below: storm clouds roll across a Latvian wheatfield

Opposite, clockwise

from top left:

chanterelles at

Ecocatering Telpa;

Janis Gutmanis gets his

hands on the honey;

the governments

mushrooming app;

foraging in the forest;

mushrooms near Riga;

chanterelles served with

steak at Valtera

Medus kuka Classic honey

cake, with a soured cream and

walnut filling, between five thin

layers of honey-flavoured sponge

Rupjmaizes kartojums

Speciality dessert of crumbled

rye bread with berry juices or

jam, cream or cottage cheese

SaldskabaSourdough rye

bread, often flavoured with

caraway seeds

Siers cheese Sour cheese, also

containing caraway, traditionally

eaten during the festival of Jani

UpenesBlackcurrants

ZemenesStrawberries



Wild blueberries, strawberries, raspberries and cloudberries all carpet the forest. Foragingfor these comes second only to mushrooming; fungi hunters scavenge through the night



MarketsKalnciemaFood fair Slow Food Riga sets out its stall every Saturday in

this district with an eclectic range of producers. The best bread in Riga is

on sale here, and there are titbits, such as hemp butter, worth discovering.Riga Central MarketOpen daily, this famed market has up to 3,000

stalls say the guide books but whos counting? In summer, the areaoutside is a riot of scents with some of the worlds finest fruit on display.

Straupe Farmers Market Held at Placis (located on the A3, 30 minutesfrom the capital) every Sunday, this is a treasure trove of excellent produce

and some damn good ingredients. Worth the trip.

Where to stayDikli PalaceA countr y house reminiscent of a hunting lodge that stylesitself as a palace. Its a romantic place to escape to, and the breakfasts,

especially the potato and cottage cheese pancakes, are excellent. Doublesfrom 40. Dikli, Koceni, 00 371 6420 7480, diklupils.lv

Dome HotelA Relais & Chteaux hotel with tasteful rooms and anexcellent restaurant, Le Dome. The latter is overseen by Maris Astics,

whose cooking, especially the fish, is generous, rustic and preparedfrom the best produce that Latvia can offer. Doubles from 200.4 Miesnieku Iela, 00 371 6750 9010, domehotel.lv

Gallery Park Hotel This glitzy, five-star hotel has many rooms andsuites decorated in a Napoleon III style, while others feature a contemporary

Italian design. Doubles from 114. 7 Krisjana Valdemara Iela, 00 371

6733 8830, galleryparkhotel.com

Liepupe ManorIf you want to learn how to prepare Latvian bread incosseted surroundings, this small chateau is the place to do it. Comfortable

rooms and genuine antiques all around. The wine cellar is beautiful.Doubles from 73. Liepupe Village, 00 371 6728 9730, liepupesmuiza.lv

NeiburgsA chic Old Town hotelthat is minimalist, modern and friendly.

Doubles from 112. 25/27 Jaun Iela, 00 371 6711 5522, neiburgs.com

Above: shelf life in

Liepupe Manors kitchen;

accommodation at

Neiburgs. Left: the

rail bridge over

the Daugava

Left to right:

Old Town

spires;

youthful

musicians;

Rigas Town

Hall Square


39/164

Liepupe Manor is a place created withlove and we welcome you with open arms!

ust one hour from iga we oer

elegant, luxurious rooms for guests whoappreciate comfort and rural elegance.

ith a spa and rst class restaurant ourguests dont have to travel far to enjoythemselves.

However, just 5 km away from theLiepupe Manor, you can nd idemesseaside with its eauful white sandeaches and the fantasc sunset.

Liepupes Manor

Salacgriva region

Liepupe village, Liepupe L

Latvia

Phone:,

E-mail: [email protected]

www.liepupesmuia.lv

For Further Information and Bookings - Tel: 01271 863636

Email: [email protected] or visit www.lundyisland.co.uk

Get away for a day trip to the beautiful & remote

LUNDY ISLANDon MS OLDENBURG - Lundys supply ship




StarPicWant to create dinners with real panache? Then ask

the experts. Three-Michelin-starred chef Anne-Sophie Picshows how to make her stunning recipes without the fuss

SARDINE RILLETTESWITH WHISKY AND

CAULIFLOWER CREAMThis recipe is quick yet

sophisticated. Combiningsardines with caulifloweris unique and the whisky

adds a punch.

F&TSPIRIT MATCH

Mellow, peaty, smoky and

smooth whisky with just twoice cubes (eg Distillers

Edition, Lagavulin)


41/164

Making a dish means using all your senses.

It must look beautiful, smell wonderful

and make the most of all the ingredients

and their textures. Cooking for those we love is

important, and equally so for ourselves to make

every meal or taste a pleasure, to take the time

to cook properly, to look after ourselves. Theres

nothing more perfect than relaxing around a

beautifully laid table with good friends, to enjoy

your efforts. Yet superb presentation doesnt always

have to mean fiddly, time-consuming techniques.

If you can find an unexpected spice or twist,

or make steps in advance, youll have a lot more

time to spend with the people who matter.

JELLIED HAM AND PARSLEY TERRINE

Another classic I have resurrected. Starting

with a really good-quality cooked ham hock

from the butcher, I make a terrine that is set

in a mushroom jelly and sharpened with

a note of acidity. I love the textural contrast

between the slightly chewy ham and the

jelly, which starts off firm then melts intothe palate, releasing notes of mushroom,

caper and cornichon. You could vary this by

using herbs or red onion pickles.

ENTERTAINING

F&TWINE MATCHFlamboyantand bright US pinot noir (eg 2012

Bien Nacido, Au Bon Climat)

41FOOD & TRAVEL



VEGETABLE TART WITHYOUNG PARMESAN CREAM

This is one of my signature dishes.Here, made with spring vegetables,

it is a riot of colour and fullof fresh greenery. You can adapt

it according to the season.

F&TWINE MATCHRefined, withcherries and herbal undertones

Portuguese red (eg 2010 DouroTinto Reserva, Quinta de la Rosa)

IN SEASON

RECIPESSTART ON

PAGE 118

DUCK LIVER WITHSEARED MELON

Ive always thought thatalmonds and melon go well

together, which is why I cameup with this sweet-savoury

recipe. The melon addsa fruity sweetness that makesall the difference. Searing

that quickly over a high heat,without really cooking it,

gives a completelyunexpected flavour.

F&TWINE MATCH

Luscious, peach, lemon andapple notes Italian pinotbianco (eg 2011 Terlaner

Classico, Cantina Terlano)

MACKEREL

ESCABECHEEscabeche is a highly

flavoured marinade: theaniseed of fennel, the

freshness of coriander,the sweet acidity of white

balsamic vinegar, thesharpness of lemon,

the dry fruitiness of whitewine and the scent of

thyme and bay. Thisintense reduction of

natural flavours, which canbe varied infinitely,

will make the mackerelfillets (try to find quite

small ones) shine brilliantly.

F&TWINE MATCH

Bone-dry, light sherry withroasted nuts and candied

peel notes (eg ManzanillaPapirusa, Lustau)



43/16443FOOD & TRAVEL

ENTERTAINING



In this recipe, the salmon is cooked

in oil in the same way as for confit,

a method that cooks the flesh evenly

at a low temperature, leaving it

incredibly soft. Dont worry that the

fish will become too oily; the oildoesnt soak into it.

F&TWINE MATCHViscous, flinty,mineral flavours with peach, honey and

spice US marsanne (eg 2010 SantaYnez Valley, Qup Winery)

RECIPES START ON PAGE 119RECIPES START ON PAGE 113

RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN

FROM SCOOK: THE COMPLETE

COOKERY COURSEBY ANNE-SOPHIE

PIC, PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL

ROULIER (JACQUI SMALL, 40). TO BUY

THE BOOK AT A SPECIAL PRICE, TURN

TO READER OFFERS ON PAGE 106.

MELBA TOAST WITH LARDO DICOLONNATA AND COMTE CHEESE

The marriage oflardoand Comt is

unusual but the result is pure, crunchy

deliciousness. You need to buy a

dense white loaf, nothing full of holes,

to make it easy to cut very thin slices

of bread. You could also try this with

other combinations of fatty meats and

cheese, like bacon with Gruyre.

F&TWINE MATCHRich, herbaceous,spicy, fruity Tuscan sangiovese (eg 2009

Brunello di Montalcino, Caparzo)

FILLET OF MARINATED SALMONWITH PETITS POIS ANDWASABI MOUSSELINE


45/164

BEETROOT SALAD WITH ARABICA COFFEE SALTThis salad is a winning combination of sweet and bitter.Different types of beetroot, with varying colours andcontrasting textures, some cooked and some raw, arelayered together and then dressed with coffee salt. Theresult: a beautiful, colourful, easy and elegant dish.

F&TBEER MATCHDark, roasted flavours with

real coffee North Yorkshire stout (eg Bad SeedEspresso Stout, Bad Seed Brewery)

45FOOD & TRAVEL

ENTERTAINING


46/164

FOOD FOCUS


Ihave lived the wild life for as long as I can remember. When we

were young my brother and I would swim in a nearby river, andfollow eel trails across the grass on dewy mornings. As the eels

were seeking new water, the unlucky ones would be caught and,

in a scene reminiscent ofLord of the Flies, would lose their heads

and skin and become a barbecue morsel for us.

This was how I spent my formative years in New Zealand. In

my early teens we moved to Auckland for a while and lived close

to the sea. I had an old inflated inner tube that Id sit in and float

around under my local wharf, dodging peoples fishing lines. Id

hunt for fishing lures stuck on rocks to sell to the fishermen and

would happily gorge on fresh mussels from the wharf piles as

I explored. Walks on the beach nearby were to findpipis(native

clams) and cockles, taken home to be cooked and eaten with

some malt vinegar, a food I still love today.

More than a few years on, my wife and I settled in Dorset,where I rediscovered my love of diving. Cooking had always

been a hobby, but became a passion because I now had a ready

audience of family and friends and a free supply of wonderful

seafood and produce all around me. I opened The Wild Garlic

in Beaminster, bringing some of the tastes of my youth into the

kitchen. Seafood flavours vary depending on their seasons, where

theyve been caught and the age of the fish, so dont feel you

must follow the recipe measurements religiously.

Gorging on gumbo, sourcing superb skate and plating

up the bounty of the sea, formerMasterChefwinner

Mat Follas nets some favourites for you to trySKATE WITH BEURRE NOISETTE

When I fished as a kid, I used to throw rays back

as a nuisance fish if only I knew then how

amazing they would taste. This dish features highly

on my meals to eat before you die. Its just so

simple, so full of flavour perfection on a plate. You

could halve the wing and add a side of potatoes or

vegetables but I always want a whole wing to myself.

The skill here is in making the butter sauce; achieving

the hazelnut aroma and flavour and stopping it from

overcooking and becoming acrid.

F&TSPIRIT MATCHRich and unique vintageJapanese sake (eg 2008 Junmai DaiginjoSpecial, Masuizumi)

FOO

Food and Travel June 2015

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Transcript of Food and Travel June 2015