Fly Fishing in Patagonia: A Trout Bum's Guide to Argentina

Fly Fishing in PatagoniaA Trout Bum’s Guide to Argentina

Barrett Mattison & Evan JonesBarrett Mattison & Evan Jones

Frank Amato Publications, Inc.P.O. Box 82112

Portland, Oregon 97282 503.653.8108

www.amatobooks.com

ISBN 13: 978-1-57188-435-0 $XX.xx

splendid region with this book in hand will quickly realize that it’s absolutely invaluable for

everyone from the lodge visitor to the wandering trout bum. It’s everything a guidebook should be,

and more. If we’d had a copy of this on our journey, it would have been a different story indeed.

—Ryan Davey, Founding Partner of the Angling Exploration Group, LLC.

Tighten down your drag and hold on—you are about to embark on an epic journey through

one of the last fishing frontiers on the planet. From sightfishing the gin-clear streams of the North to speycast-ing the turbid rivers of the South, this book covers a staggering variety of angling opportunities found through-out the 300,000+ square miles of Ar-gentine Patagonia. Inside you will find an extensive collection of first-hand accounts, logistical information, tips, techniques, and of course, plenty

of fish pictures to keep things interest-ing. Best of all, this entire book was re-searched and written by two real trout bums who suffered untold hassle and discomfort to bring you this informa-tion from an independent and unbi-ased viewpoint. So whether you plan on visiting a fancy lodge for a week or becoming a regular at the local camp-grounds, this book will help you make the most of your trip. Sound too good to be true? We’ll give you a minute to flip through the pages before you de-cide... http://www.muchatrucha.com/

In 2006 Barrett Mattison left the world of finance and banking in Seattle, WA and decided to pursue the life of an unabashed trout bum. His passion has since taken him all over the American West, Alaska, Mexico, Central America and above all, Ar-

gentina. He currently teaches English in Buenos Aires and during the fishing season can be found guiding on the Rio Grande in Tierra del Fuego.

Evan first started fishing in...wait, why are you even reading this? Surely the actual content of this book is more interesting than the pithy details of this author’s life. All that matters is that Evan spent two years roaming across Patagonia while you were at work. If you’d really like to know more, or just live vicariously through fishing photos, please visit http://www.muchatrucha.com/ or www.uchatrucha.com

Fly F

ishin

g in P

atagonia

Barrett M

attison &

Evan

Jones

Even after spending a considerable amount of time in Argentine Patagonia, I'm amazed at how

much information is in this book that I wasn't aware of. Any angler visiting this remote and

Fly-Fishing in PatagoniaA Trout Bum’s Guide to Argentina

Barrett Mattison & Evan Jones

Caption. Caption

photo.

Fly Fishing in PatagoniaA Trout Bum’s Guide to Argentina Barrett Mattison & Evan Jones

Dedicated in loving memory of Kaylene Jones

(1946-2007)

Argentines:

Rodrigo Amadeo, a pro-snowboarder-turned-fishing guide whose steadfast friendship and support

opened countless doors for us; Aldo & Marita Roddino, who made us feel right at home in Junin;

Enzo Schiaverano, a random guy we met in Rio Gallegos who welded our truck back together and

then took us fishing; everyone at hostel 1004 in Bariloche for saving Evan from defeat during his

first trip; everyone at Calafate Fishing for taking us the extra mile; Mario Capovía, who took us

Dorado fishing (maybe next book); Guillermo “Willy” Ricigliano, for teaching us the secrets of the

Limay; Mario Lussich, and Alejandro Lagos from the Quillen Valley; Martín & Daniel Etcheverry,

who took us under their wing in the Meliquina Valley; Mariano Ravizza, the Beale family, Steve &

Antonia Twilegar, Lucas Chiappe and family, Juan at Estancia Monte Leon, Diego Flores, Nico &

Alex Trochine, Juan at Albergue de los Sueños, Daniel at Tolhuin Fly Shop, Raúl Diez at La

Colina, Juan Paritsis, Silvana Buján, Pancho & Dr. Sacco at Outdoor Adventures,

and all the nameless people who stopped when our car broke down.

Yankees: Frazier Coe, who traveled with us for 90 days and rounded out the A-Team; Joey Lin, for hooking

us up with the Patagonia Fishing Club in Aluminé; Jake Chutz & Shaun Jeszenka, who got us gree

access to the Rio Grande and showed us a great time; George Hill Arbaugh III, Ryan Davey, John

& Dawn Hohl, and Shawn Bratt, all of whom teamed up and fished with us at some point; Lindsay

Letts, who has the patience of a saint; Jon Tolbey, who voluntarily proofread every word of this

manuscript; Travis and Rance at Patagonia River Guides, everyone from Creekside Angling

in Seattle, Jon Spiegel at Front Range Anglers in Boulder, Mit Cadden for handing down

El Burro, and countless others for letting us couch surf while writing the book.

Argentina

South America

Neuquén

Rio Negro

Santa Cruz

Chubut

Tierra del Fuego

© 2008 Barrett Mattison & Evan JonesALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without the written consent of the publisher, except in the case of brief excerpts in critical

reviews and articles. All inquiries should be addressed to:

Frank Amato Publications, Inc. P.O. Box 82112, Portland, Oregon 97282503.653.8108 • www.amatobooks.com

Photographs by the authors unless otherwise noted.Book and Cover Design: Kathy Johnson

Map Illustrations: Kathy Johnson

Printed in SingaporeSoftbound ISBN-13: 978-1-57188-437-4

UPC: 0-81127-00269-6

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

Acknowledgments








UPC: 0-81127-00269-6

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

2008 Barrett Mattison & Evan JonesNo part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted






Printed in Singapore

Softbound ISBN-13: 978-1-57188-437-4UPC: 0-81127-00269-6

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

2008 Barrett Mattison & Evan JonesNo part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted






Printed in Softbound ISBN-13: 978-1-57188-437-4

UPC: 0-81127-00269-6

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

Dedicated in loving memory of Kaylene Jones

(1946-2007)

Argentines:

Rodrigo Amadeo, a pro-snowboarder-turned-fishing guide whose steadfast friendship and support

opened countless doors for us; Aldo & Marita Roddino, who made us feel right at home in Junin;

Enzo Schiaverano, a random guy we met in Rio Gallegos who welded our truck back together and

then took us fishing; everyone at hostel 1004 in Bariloche for saving Evan from defeat during his

first trip; everyone at Calafate Fishing for taking us the extra mile; Mario Capovía, who took us

Dorado fishing (maybe next book); Guillermo “Willy” Ricigliano, for teaching us the secrets of the

Limay; Mario Lussich, and Alejandro Lagos from the Quillen Valley; Martín & Daniel Etcheverry,

who took us under their wing in the Meliquina Valley; Mariano Ravizza, the Beale family, Steve &

Antonia Twilegar, Lucas Chiappe and family, Juan at Estancia Monte Leon, Diego Flores, Nico &

Alex Trochine, Juan at Albergue de los Sueños, Daniel at Tolhuin Fly Shop, Raúl Diez at La

Colina, Juan Paritsis, Silvana Buján, Pancho & Dr. Sacco at Outdoor Adventures,

and all the nameless people who stopped when our car broke down.

Yankees: Frazier Coe, who traveled with us for 90 days and rounded out the A-Team; Joey Lin, for hooking

us up with the Patagonia Fishing Club in Aluminé; Jake Chutz & Shaun Jeszenka, who got us gree

access to the Rio Grande and showed us a great time; George Hill Arbaugh III, Ryan Davey, John

& Dawn Hohl, and Shawn Bratt, all of whom teamed up and fished with us at some point; Lindsay

Letts, who has the patience of a saint; Jon Tolbey, who voluntarily proofread every word of this

manuscript; Travis and Rance at Patagonia River Guides, everyone from Creekside Angling

in Seattle, Jon Spiegel at Front Range Anglers in Boulder, Mit Cadden for handing down

El Burro, and countless others for letting us couch surf while writing the book.

Argentina

South America

Neuquén

Rio Negro

Santa Cruz

Chubut

Tierra del Fuego








UPC: 0-81127-00269-6

1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

Acknowledgments

Río Grande (or Futaleufú) Drainage and 127 Los Alerces Natl. Park Lago Cholila and Río Carrileufú 128 Lago and Río Rivadavia 130 Lago Verde and Río Arrayanes 131 Lago and Río Menéndez 132 Lago Futalaufquen and Lago Krüger Area 133 Amutui Quimei Reservoir and Río Grande (or Futaleufú) 135 Arroyo Pescado (incl. Río Tecka) 137 Laguna Wilmanco 140 Río Chubut 141 Río Corcovado (or Carrenleufú) 143 Lagunas del Engaño 148 Río Pico Drainage (incl. Lagos 1-5) 149 Río Senguer Drainage (incl. Lagos La Plata and Fontana) 153

Ruta 40 (Lago Buenos Aires to Lago Pueyrredón) 163 Meseta de la Muerte (or Meseta Cascajosa) 169 Lagos San Martín, Viedma & Argentino—The Glacial Greats 171 Río Santa Cruz 177 Río Gallegos 183 Río Coyle (or Coig) 188

Río Grande 197 Río Menéndez 201 Río Fuego 202 Río Ewan 204 Río San Pablo 206 Río Irigoyen 208 Lago Fagnano (or Khami) and 209 Tributaries along Ruta 3 Lago Yehuin Area 211 Lagunas Margarita, Bombilla and Palacios 212 Lago Escondido 214 Lagunas Santa Laura and San Ricardo 216 Río Olivia 217 Río Pipo 217 Río Lapataia 218

Appendix I: Buying a Car in Argentina 220Appendix II: Spanish Fishing Vocabulary 224Selected Bibliography 226Index 228

Part 1—Introduction to Patagonia

Preface 10 Patagonian Basics 14Patagonian Trout—Past to Present 22 Logistics 28 When to Go 34What to Bring 38Fishing Regulations 42What to Expect from the Argentines 44

Part 2—The Waterways

Río Aluminé 56 Río Pulmarí 60 Río Quillén 62 Río Litran 64 Río Malleo 65 Río Chimehuin 68 Lagos Huechulafquen and Paimun 73 Río Curruhue Drainage (incl. Río Verde, Lagos Epulafquen and Carilafquen) 75 Río Quilquihue 76 Río Collon Cura 77 Río Meliquina 79 Ríos Filo Hua Hum Oeste y Este 81 Río Caléufu 82

Río Traful 90 Ruta de los Siete Lagos—Seven Lakes Route 93 (incl. Río Correntoso) Lago Nahuel Haupi 97 Río Limay 98 Río Pichi Léufu 104 Río Manso 106 Lakes of the middle Río Manso 113 (incl. Lagos Hess, Fonck, Roca and Steffan) Lago Guillelmo 116

ContentsContents

Neuquén Province 48

84

Chubut Province 118

Santa Cruz Province 156

Tierra del Fuego 190

Río Negro Province & Nahuel Huapi Natl. Park

8 Fly Fishing in Patagonia: A Trout Bum’s Guide to Argentian

9Part Chapter 1

Part I: Introduction to Patagonia

Patagonian Basics“One thing about nature: make one lousy rule to describe it and it’ll contradict you even if it has to transmogrify

and metamorphose and bust its ass to do it.”–David James Duncan

15Part I: Patagonia Basics

yond them. Differences in precipita-tion between the two regions can be incredible. Some mountainous areas receive over 160 inches of rain per year, while the average annual rain-fall on the nearby steppe is a paltry eight inches. This climatic phenome-non intensifies the geographic differ-ences between mountains and plains, in effect creating two totally distinct Patagonian experiences.

The key to predicting what your particular experience might bring, therefore, is to know where your des-tination lies in relation to the rain shadow boundary. On the western margins, you are likely to encounter temperate rainforest, with cooler tem-peratures and frequent rain or even snow. The eastern side will likely be warmer and drier, but with far few-er trees to slow the incessant winds that swoop down from the mountains across the plains. Between the two is a narrow transition zone with its own distinct vegetation and climate, both of which tend to be quite variable. The area of Lago Huechulafquen

brush on a windswept plain. Differ-ences in local weather can be equally dramatic, changing from cold and rainy to hot and windy (or vice-versa) over just a few kilometers. Patagonia is full of these surprises, though there is an underlying method to its mad-ness that can help visiting anglers prepare: which extreme you encoun-ter is mostly dictated by your proxim-ity to the Andes mountain range.

ClimateAt the most basic level, Patagonia can be divided into two major eco-systems: the mountainous areas of the Andes to the west and the barren steppe that extends eastward to the Atlantic Ocean. The mountains are not particularly tall by Andean stan-dards here at the end of the chain (averaging just over 2,000 meters), though they are sufficiently high to trap clouds laden with moisture moving eastward from the Pacific. The result is a powerful rain shadow effect that saturates the mountains and parches the rolling plains be-

are applicable to wide swaths of Pa-tagonia, intended to give you a better overview of the area as a whole. More region-specific information is includ-ed in the relevant chapters later on.

Why is it called “Patagonia”?There seem to be several variations on the exact origin of the name “Patago-nia”. Most agree that it was Magellan who coined the phrase during his visit to the present-day port of San Julian in 1520, inspired by the native Tehuelches’ large stature. Some say he called them “Patagones” directly in reference to their large feet/footprints. Others insist that it was a reference to the frightening giant “Patagón” from a novel of the time called Primaleon, which Magellan was reputedly fond of. Either way, it’s clear that the na-tives were big, the Spanish were afraid of them, and the name stuck.

Patagonia is a land of dramatic extremes. Inside its vast expanses you may encounter everything from rocky peaks to featureless plains, from colossal glaciers to parched des-erts, and from thriving tourist cities to utterly vacant wilderness. It’s not simply this variety of environments that characterizes Patagonia, but how abruptly the landscape can shift from one to another. The transitions can be quite surprising, sometimes between one curve of the road and the next, where dense old-growth forest might suddenly give way to scattered sage-

PATAgOnIA IS THe nAMe given to the entire southern peninsula of South America,

roughly between 38 and 55 degrees south latitude. Its 380,000+ square miles are shared by the nations of Argentina and Chile, with the Andes mountain chain forming a natural boundary between the two. Our focus is solely on the Argentine side of Pa-tagonia, which encompasses roughly 80% of the total land area, extend-ing eastward from the Andes all the way to the Atlantic coast, and from the Río Colorado near the city of neuquén all the way to the southern-most city in the world, Ushuaia. This massive area is divided among the 5 southernmost provinces of Argentina: neuquén, Río negro, Chubut, Santa Cruz, and Tierra del Fuego. Their to-tal size is about that of Montana and California combined.

The enormity of Patagonia makes any generalization about it quite…well… general. Describing the entire area in a single overview is much like talking about “California and Mon-tana” in one breath. even if we de-voted the entire book to this subject, it might not be enough to capture all the nuances of this diverse land-scape. Therefore, we’re shooting for something distinctly less grandiose—not a complete academic review, but rather a few key aspects that are most useful to visiting anglers. What follows are general descriptions that

East of the rainshadow, much of Patagonia is dominated by dry, featureless plains. In fact, Patagonia encompasses the world’s fourth largest desert. Barrett Mattison Photo


11Part I: Preface

(albeit slowly at times) the entire length of Argentine Patagonia from Aluminé to Ushuaia, and most places in-between. Although Patagonia is roughly defined as the southernmost portions of both Argentina and Chile, we chose to focus solely on Argentine Patagonia. Excellent fishing certainly exists on both sides of the border, but from a fishermen’s perspective, Ar-gentina is generally more accessible, affordable, and practical than neigh-boring Chile.

Fishing mostly independently and entirely self-funded, we camped most of the time, ate almost nothing but pasta, got punished by weather, went on countless grueling marches, and got stranded in the middle of nowhere more than once—all in the search for salmonids. Our hope is that we can use our experiences to inform

some exotic trout fishing unlike any-where else in the world. Oversized trout chasing down equally oversized dry flies frantically skittered across the surface, explosive 20lb sea-run browns, or a unique run of Atlantic steelhead are just a few examples of the unparalleled fishing that Patago-nia can offer.

Hearing of the incredible fishing and hoping to quench our appetites for big trout and a little adventure, we too were irresistibly drawn to the exotic remoteness of Patagonia. Trad-ing in cubicles and neckties for rivers and waders, we left our stable jobs in exchange for the uncertainty of trout bumming for extended periods of time in a foreign land. First in a 1984 Renault station wagon and again the following season with a 1974 Ford Ranchero, we extensively covered

But Patagonia is much more than simply a South American reflection of our American West. The distinct Latin culture; an exotic austral sky; the seemingly incongruous mix of immense glaciers encircled by bam-boo rainforests; curious native fauna such as guanacos, pigmy deer, and rheas; or fishing under the watchful eyes of Andean condors in a trout stream ringed by parakeets and fla-mingos—all are uniquely Patagonian experiences.

Patagonia is also a land of awe-in-spiring immensity as vast as it is var-ied, and offers every conceivable type of fly water and scenery. Character-ized by dramatic contrasts, Patagonia offers everything from turquoise riv-ers cutting through temperate rain-forests to tea-stained chalk streams meandering over desolate steppe, and from sight-fishing in a technical spring creek to spey casting in a mas-sive glacial river. It is also one of the last remaining fly fishing frontiers on earth, and in its more remote areas is still a sparsely inhabited frontier land as trackless and wild as it was centuries ago, where many lakes and rivers remain relatively unknown and unexplored by fishermen.

While the trout may technically be the same species as their Northern Hemispheric cousins, 100 years of uninterrupted adaptation within dis-tinct environments has resulted in

PATAgONIA IS mORE THAN just a spot on the map. The mere mention of the word “Pa-

tagonia” captivates the imagination, invoking thoughts of adventure and exploration in a fabled far-off corner of the world. Since magellan first set foot on its barren shores near present day San Julián in 1520, Patagonia’s mystique and raw beauty has irresist-ibly drawn explorers, mountaineers, prospectors, naturalists and wander-ers alike. With the wildly successful introduction of trout at the turn of the 20th century, a new frontier was opened, adding fly fishermen to that rarefied list.

Aesthetically speaking, Patago-nia and the North American West share many parallels: immense tracts of unpopulated wilderness, grandiose mountain ranges and endless prairies, intemperate climates, a frontier his-tory of rough-and-tumble lawlessness complete with cowboys and Indians, homesteading and cattle ranching; and perhaps most important to fly fishermen, pristine streams swimming with large, eager trout. In some ways, Patagonia is also like stepping back into the American West of generations past—a past where horses and oxcarts are still standard modes of transporta-tion, where rickety old trucks bounce down unpaved roads, and where many of its uncrowded rivers still flow free-ly, untamed by dams.

Preface“Patagonia is the farthest place to which man walked from his

place of origins. It is therefore a symbol of his restlessness. From its discovery it had an effect on the imagination something like the

Moon, but in my opinion more powerful.” Bruce Chatwin

The Cholila Valley in Chubut Province (once home to famous outlaws Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid) is strikingly similar to the American West.

Photo Credit ? ? ??


11Part I: Preface

(albeit slowly at times) the entire length of Argentine Patagonia from Aluminé to Ushuaia, and most places in-between. Although Patagonia is roughly defined as the southernmost portions of both Argentina and Chile, we chose to focus solely on Argentine Patagonia. Excellent fishing certainly exists on both sides of the border, but from a fishermen’s perspective, Ar-gentina is generally more accessible, affordable, and practical than neigh-boring Chile.

Fishing mostly independently and entirely self-funded, we camped most of the time, ate almost nothing but pasta, got punished by weather, went on countless grueling marches, and got stranded in the middle of nowhere more than once—all in the search for salmonids. Our hope is that we can use our experiences to inform

some exotic trout fishing unlike any-where else in the world. Oversized trout chasing down equally oversized dry flies frantically skittered across the surface, explosive 20lb sea-run browns, or a unique run of Atlantic steelhead are just a few examples of the unparalleled fishing that Patago-nia can offer.

Hearing of the incredible fishing and hoping to quench our appetites for big trout and a little adventure, we too were irresistibly drawn to the exotic remoteness of Patagonia. Trad-ing in cubicles and neckties for rivers and waders, we left our stable jobs in exchange for the uncertainty of trout bumming for extended periods of time in a foreign land. First in a 1984 Renault station wagon and again the following season with a 1974 Ford Ranchero, we extensively covered

But Patagonia is much more than simply a South American reflection of our American West. The distinct Latin culture; an exotic austral sky; the seemingly incongruous mix of immense glaciers encircled by bam-boo rainforests; curious native fauna such as guanacos, pigmy deer, and rheas; or fishing under the watchful eyes of Andean condors in a trout stream ringed by parakeets and fla-mingos—all are uniquely Patagonian experiences.

Patagonia is also a land of awe-in-spiring immensity as vast as it is var-ied, and offers every conceivable type of fly water and scenery. Character-ized by dramatic contrasts, Patagonia offers everything from turquoise riv-ers cutting through temperate rain-forests to tea-stained chalk streams meandering over desolate steppe, and from sight-fishing in a technical spring creek to spey casting in a mas-sive glacial river. It is also one of the last remaining fly fishing frontiers on earth, and in its more remote areas is still a sparsely inhabited frontier land as trackless and wild as it was centuries ago, where many lakes and rivers remain relatively unknown and unexplored by fishermen.

While the trout may technically be the same species as their Northern Hemispheric cousins, 100 years of uninterrupted adaptation within dis-tinct environments has resulted in

PATAgONIA IS mORE THAN just a spot on the map. The mere mention of the word “Pa-

tagonia” captivates the imagination, invoking thoughts of adventure and exploration in a fabled far-off corner of the world. Since magellan first set foot on its barren shores near present day San Julián in 1520, Patagonia’s mystique and raw beauty has irresist-ibly drawn explorers, mountaineers, prospectors, naturalists and wander-ers alike. With the wildly successful introduction of trout at the turn of the 20th century, a new frontier was opened, adding fly fishermen to that rarefied list.

Aesthetically speaking, Patago-nia and the North American West share many parallels: immense tracts of unpopulated wilderness, grandiose mountain ranges and endless prairies, intemperate climates, a frontier his-tory of rough-and-tumble lawlessness complete with cowboys and Indians, homesteading and cattle ranching; and perhaps most important to fly fishermen, pristine streams swimming with large, eager trout. In some ways, Patagonia is also like stepping back into the American West of generations past—a past where horses and oxcarts are still standard modes of transporta-tion, where rickety old trucks bounce down unpaved roads, and where many of its uncrowded rivers still flow free-ly, untamed by dams.

Preface“Patagonia is the farthest place to which man walked from his

place of origins. It is therefore a symbol of his restlessness. From its discovery it had an effect on the imagination something like the

Moon, but in my opinion more powerful.” Bruce Chatwin

12 Fly Fishing in Patagonia: A Trout Bum’s Guide to Argentian 13Part I: Preface

from the fishing when you get there. There are many other resources to help you with the more commercial aspects of a trip.

At the same time, this book is not meant to be an exhaustive treatise on Patagonian fly fishing. Not in many lifetimes could one fish every section of its myriad fisheries, not to mention covering them sufficiently to claim ex-pertise. We make no such claim. Nev-ertheless, we have tried our best to fill the large gap of information that hangs over much of Patagonia. Given the sheer amount of fishable water available in Argentina, it was impos-sible for us to personally gain season-long, day-in, day-out experience on any single river or lake. To overcome this, we relentlessly sought out and questioned the most k nowledgeable fishermen and guides we could find in each area, thereby supplementing our comparatively brief experience with a more holistic and comprehensive per-spective—something we are in turn passing on to you. In sum, this book is a mixture of extensive first and second-hand research, personal anec-dotes and observations, and practical tips on how to navigate this uttermost corner of the world.

Most fly fishermen traveling to Patagonia should bring a gen-eral guidebook on the region, such as Lonely Planet or Rough Guide. We have therefore tried our best not to duplicate information already provid-ed in those books. Subjects such as history, culture, flora, fauna, tourism and generally all things superfluous to fly fishing are not included or are mentioned only in passing. Our hope is that this information will help fish-ermen decide when and where to go based on their personal preferences.

See you there…

others of the realities of Argentine fly fishing, while helping to avoid the many pitfalls that we had to learn the hard way.

Roderick Haig-Brown once said, rather self-deprecatingly, “I am a writer who happens to fish, not a fisherman who happens to write.” It might already be apparent that we are the exact opposite. Patagonia, and fly fishing in general, has a rich history of writers infinitely more el-oquent and talented than ourselves, and we have no illusions to the con-trary. What we lack in literary prose, however, we strive to make up for with pragmatic information for fish-ermen conveyed in a straightforward manner. Having fished the major-ity of Argentine Patagonia, we feel we have a solid background from which to provide an objective view on how its various regions and wa-terways differ, and what each has to offer. While absolute objectivity is obviously impossible, operating in-dependently has freed us from the obligation to promote any one area simply because a lodge or outfitter catered to us (something you won’t find in most magazine articles or TV shows).

Even though this book may be written from the perspective of un-abashed trout bums, we realize that most anglers considering a trip to Pa-tagonia don’t have the luxury of stay-ing for six months at a time or the desire to sleep in a tent every night and will therefore go through a lodge or outfitter. Only on a few occasions did we use these types of resources, so while we have chosen to recom-mend a handful of those with whom we had an excellent personal experi-ence, this book cannot address which are “the best,” only what to expect

Frazier Coe Photo

12 Fly Fishing in Patagonia: A Trout Bum’s Guide to Argentian 13Part I: Preface

from the fishing when you get there. There are many other resources to help you with the more commercial aspects of a trip.

At the same time, this book is not meant to be an exhaustive treatise on Patagonian fly fishing. Not in many lifetimes could one fish every section of its myriad fisheries, not to mention covering them sufficiently to claim ex-pertise. We make no such claim. Nev-ertheless, we have tried our best to fill the large gap of information that hangs over much of Patagonia. Given the sheer amount of fishable water available in Argentina, it was impos-sible for us to personally gain season-long, day-in, day-out experience on any single river or lake. To overcome this, we relentlessly sought out and questioned the most k nowledgeable fishermen and guides we could find in each area, thereby supplementing our comparatively brief experience with a more holistic and comprehensive per-spective—something we are in turn passing on to you. In sum, this book is a mixture of extensive first and second-hand research, personal anec-dotes and observations, and practical tips on how to navigate this uttermost corner of the world.

Most fly fishermen traveling to Patagonia should bring a gen-eral guidebook on the region, such as Lonely Planet or Rough Guide. We have therefore tried our best not to duplicate information already provid-ed in those books. Subjects such as history, culture, flora, fauna, tourism and generally all things superfluous to fly fishing are not included or are mentioned only in passing. Our hope is that this information will help fish-ermen decide when and where to go based on their personal preferences.

See you there…

others of the realities of Argentine fly fishing, while helping to avoid the many pitfalls that we had to learn the hard way.

Roderick Haig-Brown once said, rather self-deprecatingly, “I am a writer who happens to fish, not a fisherman who happens to write.” It might already be apparent that we are the exact opposite. Patagonia, and fly fishing in general, has a rich history of writers infinitely more el-oquent and talented than ourselves, and we have no illusions to the con-trary. What we lack in literary prose, however, we strive to make up for with pragmatic information for fish-ermen conveyed in a straightforward manner. Having fished the major-ity of Argentine Patagonia, we feel we have a solid background from which to provide an objective view on how its various regions and wa-terways differ, and what each has to offer. While absolute objectivity is obviously impossible, operating in-dependently has freed us from the obligation to promote any one area simply because a lodge or outfitter catered to us (something you won’t find in most magazine articles or TV shows).

Even though this book may be written from the perspective of un-abashed trout bums, we realize that most anglers considering a trip to Pa-tagonia don’t have the luxury of stay-ing for six months at a time or the desire to sleep in a tent every night and will therefore go through a lodge or outfitter. Only on a few occasions did we use these types of resources, so while we have chosen to recom-mend a handful of those with whom we had an excellent personal experi-ence, this book cannot address which are “the best,” only what to expect

P2230280—Top of Cordoba Pass--is located in Chile.EVAN-NEED CAPTION Frazier

Coe Photo


229Index

230

231

Lagunas Jeulsha)Lagunas Jeulsha Lagunas Mellizas (see

Lagunas Jeulsha)Lake TroutLandlocked Atlantic

SalmonLanín National ParkLas Pampas (Dr. Atilio

Viglioni)Llao LlaoLos Alerces National ParkLos AntiguosLos Glaciares National

Park

MMarrones (see Brown

Trout)

NNahuel Huapi National

Park

PPacific DrainagesPancoraPejerreyPercaPerito MorenoPerito Moreno National

ParkPiedra del AguilaPiedrabuenaPilolílPlateadas (see Sea-Run

Brown Trout)Preferencial ZonesPulgónPuyén

RRahueRainbow TroutRío AluminéRío ArrayanesRío AzulRío Belgrano Río Blanco

Lago LologLago Los Moscos Lago MachónicoLago MartínLago MascardiLago MenéndezLago Moquehue Lago Musters Lago Nahuel HaupiLago Ñorquinco Lago NuevoLago PaimunLago PosadasLago Puelo National ParkLago PueyrredónLago PulmaríLago Quillén Lago Quiroga Grande/

Chico Lago RivadaviaLago RocaLago RocaLago SalitrosoLago San MartínLago SteffanLago StrobelLago Tromen Lago Verde Lago ViedmaLago Villarino Lago VintterLago YehuinLaguna BombillaLaguna El ToroLaguna Huala-Hue Laguna La HerraduraLaguna Los Giles Laguna MargaritaLaguna PalaciosLaguna San RicardoLaguna Santa LauraLaguna VerdeLaguna WilmancoLaguna YakushLagunas Hailsha (see

GGobernador GregoresGusano/Gusanito

JJunín (de los Andes)

LLa RinconadaLago 1-5Lago AluminéLago Antuk (see Lago

Hantu)Lago ArgentinoLago Berta InferiorLago Berta SuperiorLago Buenos AiresLago Cardiel/Cardiel

ChicoLago CarilafquenLago ChepelmutLago Cholila Lago Colhue HuapiLago Columna Lago Curruhué Grande/

Chico Lago del Desierto Lago Engaño FalsoLago Engaño SuperiorLago Epulafquen Lago EscondidoLago Espejo Grande/

Chico Lago Fagnano (Khami)Lago FalknerLago Filo Hua Hum Lago Fonck Grande/Chico Lago Futalaufquen Lago Ghio Lago GuachoLago GuillelmoLago Hantu Lago HermosoLago Hess Lago HuechulafquenLago Krüger Lago Lacar

A Alto Río SenguerAluminéAmutui Quimei Reservoir Arcoiris (see Rainbow

Trout)Arroyo Aseret Arroyo Baggilt Arroyo Cuyin Manzano Arroyo GuachoArroyo Huemul Arroyo Los IngenierosArroyo Ñireco Arroyo Pedregoso Arroyo PescadoArroyo Ruca MalenArroyo Suspiro Arroyo Toro Alzado

BBajo CaracolesBariloche (San Carlos de)BocasBocones (see Lake Trout)Brook TroutBrown Trout

CChinookCholilaChorrillo Magán Chorrillo SolitárioConfluenciaCorcovado

DDriving

EEl BolsonEl CalafateEl MaitenEpuyénEsquelEstancia La Siberia

FFliesFloatsFontinalis (see Brook

Trout)

Río KilcaRío KrügerRío La LeonaRío LapataiaRío Las PampasRío LimayRío LitranRío Los Antiguos Río MalleoRío MansoRío MartínRío MayerRío Mayo [city]Río Mayo [river]Río MeliquinaRío MenéndezRío MenéndezRío MilnaRío MineroRío NegroRío Neuquén Río NilsonRío Ñirihuau Río ÑorquincoRío OliviaRío OroRío PaimunRío Pascua Río Pelque Río Penitente Río Pichi LéufuRío Pichi Traful Río Pico [city]Río Pico [river]Río PipoRío PulmaríRío Quieto Río QuillénRío QuilquihueRío RivadaviaRío Rubens Río San PabloRío Santa CruzRío SenguerRío Shehuen (Chalía) Río StangeRío Tarde Río Tecka Río TigreRío TuertoRío Turbio [city]

Río Turbio [river]Río UniónRío ValdezRío Verde Río Villegas Ruta Pehuenia

SSan Martín (de los Andes)Sea Trout (see Sea-run

Brown Trout)Sea-run Brown TroutSeasonsSteelhead

TTackleTeckaTierra del Fuego National

ParkTolhuinTrelewTres LagosTrevelin

UUshuaiaVilla FutalaufquenVilla La AngosturaVilla PehueniaVilla Traful

ZZonas Preferenciales (see

Preferential Zones)

Río BombillaRío Bonito Río CaléufuRío Capitán Río CardielRío CarrileufúRío Catan LilRío CaterinaRío ChappelRío Chico Río ChimehuinRío ChubutRío ClaroRío ColehualRío Collon CuraRío Corcovado

(Carrenleufú)Río Corintos Río CorrentosoRío Coyle (or Coig)Río CurruhuéRío de la Turba (see Río

Menendez)Río de las VueltasRío DeseadoRío Diablo Río El PasoRío Engaño Río EpuyénRío Escorial Río EwanRío Fenix Grande/ChicoRío Filo Hua Hum Oeste/

EsteRío FoyelRío Frey Río FuegoRío FuriosoRío Gallegos [city]Río Gallegos [river]Río Gallegos ChicoRío GhioRío Grande (Futaleufú)Río Grande [city]Río Grande [river]Río Gualjiana Río HieloRío InRío IndioRío IrigoyenRío Jeinemeni

Index

Index

Fly Fishing in PatagoniaA Trout Bum’s Guide to Argentina

Barrett Mattison & Evan JonesBarrett Mattison & Evan Jones

Frank Amato Publications, Inc.P.O. Box 82112

Portland, Oregon 97282 503.653.8108

www.amatobooks.com

ISBN 13: 978-1-57188-435-0 $XX.xx

splendid region with this book in hand will quickly realize that it’s absolutely invaluable for

everyone from the lodge visitor to the wandering trout bum. It’s everything a guidebook should be,

and more. If we’d had a copy of this on our journey, it would have been a different story indeed.

—Ryan Davey, Founding Partner of the Angling Exploration Group, LLC.

Tighten down your drag and hold on—you are about to embark on an epic journey through

one of the last fishing frontiers on the planet. From sightfishing the gin-clear streams of the North to speycast-ing the turbid rivers of the South, this book covers a staggering variety of angling opportunities found through-out the 300,000+ square miles of Ar-gentine Patagonia. Inside you will find an extensive collection of first-hand accounts, logistical information, tips, techniques, and of course, plenty

of fish pictures to keep things interest-ing. Best of all, this entire book was re-searched and written by two real trout bums who suffered untold hassle and discomfort to bring you this informa-tion from an independent and unbi-ased viewpoint. So whether you plan on visiting a fancy lodge for a week or becoming a regular at the local camp-grounds, this book will help you make the most of your trip. Sound too good to be true? We’ll give you a minute to flip through the pages before you de-cide... http://www.muchatrucha.com/

In 2006 Barrett Mattison left the world of finance and banking in Seattle, WA and decided to pursue the life of an unabashed trout bum. His passion has since taken him all over the American West, Alaska, Mexico, Central America and above all, Ar-

gentina. He currently teaches English in Buenos Aires and during the fishing season can be found guiding on the Rio Grande in Tierra del Fuego.

Evan first started fishing in...wait, why are you even reading this? Surely the actual content of this book is more interesting than the pithy details of this author’s life. All that matters is that Evan spent two years roaming across Patagonia while you were at work. If you’d really like to know more, or just live

Fly F

ishin

g in P

atagonia

Barrett M

attison &

Evan

Jones

Even after spending a considerable amount of time in Argentine Patagonia, I'm amazed at how

much information is in this book that I wasn't aware of. Any angler visiting this remote and

Fly Fishing in Patagonia: A Trout Bum's Guide to Argentina

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