Flamenco Fabric Guide · FLAMENCO FABRIC GUIDE Taking the Guesswork out of Choosing Fabric for your...

FLAMENCO FABRIC GUIDE Taking the Guesswork out of Choosing Fabric for your Flamenco Dance Costume

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FLAMENCO FABRIC GUIDE

TAKING THE GUESSWORK OUT OF CHOOSING FABRIC FOR YOUR FLAMENCO

DANCE COSTUME

Publication date 9 December 2015

Written and published by: Anke Herrmann


©Copyright 2016 Anke Herrmann

All rights reserved.

This publication may not be reproduced without written permission from the

author. Please feel free to contact Anke Herrmann at

www.flamencodressmaking.com/contact

You may store the PDF on your computer and backups. You may print this book

for your own personal use.

Disclaimer: The information contained in this book is based on the author’s

experience, knowledge and opinions. The author and publisher will not be held

liable for the use or misuse of the information in this book.

http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/



CONTENTS

CLICK ON A HEADING TO GO STRAIGHT TO THE TOPIC

Introduction

What to Expect From the Flamenco Fabric Guide

The eBook You’re Reading

Fabric Swatches

What the Flamenco Fabric Guide is NOT

What to Look for When Fabric Shopping

Polka Dots – In or Out?

A Word about Elastic Fabrics

What about Linings?

Fully or partially lined?

Tops

Skirts

Dresses

Vests

Short Jackets

Bata de cola

When to fully line a skirt or dress

What color should your lining fabric be?

Where and When to Buy Flamenco Fabrics in Spain

Flamenco Fabric Season

How Much Fabric Do You Need?

A Word About Fabric Names.

Flamenco Fabrics

Crepe

Stretch

Poplin

Cotton Lycra




Elastic Poplin

Georgette

Chiffon

Cotton

Satin

Elastic Satin

Lace

Embroidered Cotton or Perforated Cotton

Velvet

Piqué

Can Can

Stiff Organza

Elastic Fabrics

Polyester Knits

Cotton Knits

Lycra

Linings

Poplin Lining

Elastic Poplin Lining

Satin lining

Fabric By Use

Conclusion

Note:

Click on any photo of a flamenco costume to see a larger version in an

online album.




INTRODUCTION Do you remember how you discovered flamenco for you? I bet you do. When

did you know that flamenco was something you didn’t just want to watch but

something you needed to DO?

For me it was a flamenco concert Paco Peña gave in London. Never before had I

heard music that literally gave me goose bumps, music that could make my

eyes swell up with tears. Watching the dancers I could feel the raw emotion

shoot through my body like an electric current.

I loved the dresses – feminine, powerful, elegant.

That evening I couldn’t imagine where this experience would lead me. I just

knew that flamenco was in my life to stay.

If you can relate, if you love flamenco, you know you FEEL flamenco the

moment you put on a beautiful costume. And you know that it takes a good

amount of work and a lot of fabric to create one.

You’ve come to the right place if you want to make sure you choose the right

material for your flamenco costume before spending your time and money,

whether you are thinking of sewing it yourself, having it made by someone else

or buy one ready-made.

Hello and welcome! I’m happy you’re here.

My name is Anke Herrmann. Now I know that doesn’t sound Spanish

and it isn’t so in case you are wondering what I have to contribute

about the fabrics for flamenco costumes – here is the short version

of my story:

I grew up in Germany, then went to live in Australia and the UK

before in 2004, I quit my corporate job, packed up and moved to

Granada, Spain, with the somewhat crazy sounding idea of setting up

my own sewing studio specializing in made to measure flamenco

dance costumes. You can find out more about me and how that

came about at http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/about/

It has been quite a journey and I am now looking back onto more than 10 years

of dressing flamenco dancers.

You’re in the right

place if you want

to be sure you

choose the right

material for your

flamenco costume

before spending

your time and

money.


https://about.me/anke_herrmann

http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/about/



I remember my early days well. I wasn’t new to sewing but I had no idea about

flamenco dance costumes and no one to ask for help. And there was virtually

no information available online. So I learnt over time and mostly from my

mistakes.

Sometimes you need to learn from your own mistakes but I don’t think

flamenco costume making or choosing the right material for your costume

should fall into that category. That’s why I created

www.flamencodressmaking.com with the idea of helping flamenco dancers

sew their own costumes.

I invite you to check it out if you ..

feel you simply dance better when you look the part, and

rather spend your time creating than hunting for the right outfit.

You’ll find digital sewing patterns, tutorials and articles in English so you’ll

never again have to dance in an unflattering, ill-

fitting costume but instead look into the mirror

of your dance studio and actually love what you

see, with the added satisfaction that you’ve

made it yourself.

Now if you’ve ever sewn anything you know that

the right type of fabric can make the difference

between a nice outfit and an absolutely stunning

one, between one that ends up in the last corner

of your wardrobe and one you never get tired of

If you’ve ever sewn

anything you know

that the right type

of fabric can make

the difference

between a nice

outfit and an

absolutely

stunning one.

With the help of

the Flamenco

Fabric Guide you’ll

recognize a great

material when you

see it and buy it

without second-

guessing your

choice.

FROM THE CLIENT GALLERY

IMAGE 2 - A TINY SELECTION OF COSTUMES I'VE MADE

IMAGE 3 - DRESS SEWN BY A CLIENT

BASED ON MY CUSTOM PATTERN


http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/flamenco-fabric-guide-images/





wearing. The Flamenco Fabric Guide will help you choose. You’ll know what to

look for, recognize the perfect material for your costume when you see it and

buy it without second-guessing your choice.

If you have any questions or if you’d like to share anything please get in touch:


http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/contact/

Facebook

Twitter

Instagram

Pinterest

Youtube

Medium

I’d love to hear from you.

WHAT TO EXPECT FROM THE FLAMENCO FABRIC GUIDE If you are thinking about sewing a flamenco costume (or having one made) and

feel lost or a sense of overwhelm when it comes to fabric shopping I can assure

you that you are not alone.

Even my local clients here in Andalusia in the south of Spain, dancers who

usually own several flamenco costumes and who can walk into any fabric store

and expect at least some help, often ask me what type of fabrics they should

use for their new outfit.

IMAGE 4 - POLKA DOT FABRICS AT THE STORE



http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/contact/

https://www.facebook.com/flamencodressmaking

https://twitter.com/sewflamenco

https://instagram.com/sewflamenco/

https://www.pinterest.com/sewflamenco/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBdmTpkiHWo-FC1bw7KIkaw?view_as=public

https://medium.com/@sewingenious.co



The purpose of this Flamenco Fabric Guide is to share with you what I have

learnt about which fabrics work best for which kind of outfit. There are two

parts to it:

THE EBOOK YOU’RE READING

You’ll learn

What qualities to look for in a material (so you can recognize a great

material when you see one)

About fabric names (and why they don’t really matter)

About flamenco costume fashion (and what’s more important)

About when to use elastic fabrics (probably way less often than you

think)

What you need to know about lining your flamenco costume (so you

won’t mess up your project by getting the inside of your garment

wrong)

Where and when to buy in Spain (if you want to go straight to the

source)

General guidelines for how much fabric you need for different

garments (and why that’s such a tricky thing for flamenco costumes)

You’ll find the 20 most commonly used types of fabrics explained, including

material composition,

photos showing costumes made from it,

which garments it is perfect for and which not,

what lining to use (if any),

what I love about it and what to watch out for,

what it’s called in Spanish in case you plan to shop in

Spain or online.

Use the overview of fabrics by garment type at the end of the

book to quickly find the materials best suited for a particular

garment.

FABRIC SWATCHES

Of course there is only so much you can learn about fabrics by

reading and looking at photos. It’s really about touch, isn’t it?

That’s why you also receive actual swatches of all the fabrics

IMAGE 5 - THE EBOOK

IMAGE 6 - FABRIC SWATCHES




discussed in the mail so please make sure your delivery address is correct (and

no, they’re not the ones you see in the photo to the right, these are symbolic.

You’ll get the real thing.). This way you can feel for yourself if you like the

material or take it to your local fabric store to get help finding something

similar.

WHAT THE FLAMENCO FABRIC GUIDE IS NOT Before we throw ourselves into the fibers I need to make sure you are aware

that

I am not selling fabrics.

I don’t earn any commissions from fabrics you may purchase from

shops I mention in this eBook or on my website.

I am not associated with any fabric shops so availability of colors and

prints is entirely out of my control.

The fabrics included in the Flamenco Fabric Guide are not the only ones

suited for flamenco costumes, just the ones I most commonly use when

making costume for Spanish flamenco dancers, just the ones proven to

give great results. Once you know what works your imagination is the

limit.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN FABRIC SHOPPING Now what fabrics ARE the best to use for your flamenco dance costume?

Good question. After all, a flamenco dance costume is in essence a sports

outfit, albeit an elegant one, and needs to fulfil a number of criteria:

It needs to be comfortable to dance in – adapting itself to your body

without restricting movement

Skirts and ruffles should not be too heavy or too stiff and have a nice

flow

Dancers are sweating so the dance costume must be easy to wash, not

shrink and ideally not wrinkle

The material must not be too delicate for a flamenco costume to

“survive” a dance

It must make you look and feel amazing

Take the fabric

samples along

when you go

shopping locally

and let staff help

you find something

similar.




Certain types of fabrics have proven to work really well for flamenco dance

costumes, some work for some outfits but not for others and there is also an

element of fashion.

Which colors, prints or design elements are popular in any given season is

heavily influenced by the annual flamenco fashion show SIMOF (Salon

Internacional de Moda Flamenca).

The flamenco dresses shown at SIMOF are (mostly) stunning to look at and no

doubt a source of inspiration but they are feria dresses and not made for

dancing. Apart from the cut, which in most cases is too restrictive for dancing,

the fabrics used often make them too heavy and too bulky for a dancer. Or

totally on the contrary – you may find beautiful laces or transparent chiffons

that are way too delicate and not resilient enough for a dance costume.

So by all means admire the collections and use them to get ideas for necklines,

colors, shapes, sleeve details, accessories, material mix or style but know that

you’ll want different types of fabric for your dance costume.

Admire the

collections and use

them to get ideas

for necklines,

colors, shapes,

sleeve details,

accessories,

material mix or

style but know that

you’ll want

different types of

fabric for your

dance costume

IMAGE 7 - FLAMENCO FASHION SHOW SIMOF


http://www.simof.es/

http://www.andalucia.com/festival/summer.htm




POLKA DOTS – IN OR OUT? Polka dots are the most typical or traditional kind of print for flamenco dance

costumes.

Flamenco dancers outside of Spain often tell me they don’t like polka dots, they

feel they are old fashioned and out of date. They are also worried that they

look “dressed up” if they go for this kind of traditional look.

Andalusian flamenco dancers usually love polka dots. In fact, I can’t think of a

Spanish client of mine who doesn’t like polka dots. This doesn’t mean that all

their costumes sport them but when they are after a traditional look nothing

beats the good old polka dots – big, small, mixed with plain color fabrics or

other prints – you name it, they love it.

What does that mean for you? If you like them and they work with how and

what “palo” you are dancing (for example you wouldn’t wear polka dots for a

guajira) go for them. If not, there are plenty of other options. As always –

you’re the designer, you decide.

IMAGE 8 - CUEVA LOS TARANTOS (EL SACROMONTE, GRANADA) SEVERAL DANCERS ARE WEARING

COSTUMES I’VE MADE





A WORD ABOUT ELASTIC FABRICS You might look at those figure hugging dresses flamenco dancers wear

and think they are all made from elastic fabrics. How else could they be

that close fitting and still let the dancer move? Some of them are but

actually, most of them are not.

Elastic fabrics are mainly used for practice skirts.

Flamenco dancers don’t usually consider them “dressy” enough for a stage

outfit. There are exceptions, of course. Elastic laces or velvets are popular these

days and some dancers value the comfort of elastic fabrics more than anything

else. Some like to combine elastic and non-elastic materials (e.g. the top made

from elastic fabric and skirt and ruffles from non-elastic materials)

IMAGE 9 - MOST COSTUMES ARE NOT ELASTIC

IMAGE 10 - ELASTIC PRACTICE SKIRTS







IMAGE 11 - THE RED COSTUME IN THE MIDDLE IS MADE FROM A LYCRA TOP AND CREPE SKIRT AND

RUFFLES





The main reasons you’d want to consider elastic fabrics:

You are not performing solo and mainly want your costume for classes

Your weight fluctuates. No need to alter the costume if you put on or

lose a few pounds

The costume is for a child. Costumes made from elastic fabrics “grow”

with the little dancer and last longer

You just love the look and feel

Things to keep in mind ..

If you want an elastic skirt or dress with ruffles

Keep an eye on the weight of the fabric. Many types of lycra are fairly

heavy and having lots of ruffles makes the skirt

difficult to dance in.

Choose a material that is not or only a little vertically

elastic, otherwise the ruffles will pull the skirt down

as well as bounce up and down while dancing which –

I’m told – is very uncomfortable. You’re also likely to

step onto the ruffles and may even fall.

If you want to add ruffles made from non-elastic

fabric to your elastic costume it is a good idea to use

a zig-zag stitch and expand the elastic fabric when

sewing the ruffle on. This way you’ll maintain most of

the elasticity of the skirt or whatever you’re making.

You’ll also need a serger or sewing machine that can handle

elastic fabrics. If you sew elastic fabrics with a normal sewing

machine, needle and straight stitch (yes, you might not

believe it but I have seen practice skirts made that way) the

stitches will break when you stretch the fabric every time to

put on the skirt.

IMAGE 12 - FABRICS THAT AREN'T VERY ELASTIC

VERTICALLY GIVE BETTER RESULTS





WHAT ABOUT LININGS? Almost all flamenco dance costumes are lined, interlined to be precise (i.e. the

outer fabric and corresponding lining pieces are joined and treated as one piece

from then on). Only practice skirts and blouses/shirts go without.

As you’ll see in the

following pages most of the

fabrics used for flamenco

dance costumes are

synthetic, lightweight

materials. You’ll definitely

sweat when you dance and

I’m sure just the thought of

feeling thin, synthetic fabric

stick to your skin makes

you cringe.

The lining fabric is there to

Absorb sweat

Give the garment body

Make sure the garment isn’t see through

Reinforce the outer fabric

In most cases you’ll want to use a lightweight, soft poplin lining. But really, the

lining you’ll choose depends on the outer fabric and the type of garment you’re

making. For example you’ll choose a slightly elastic lining for slightly elastic

fabrics, a satin or silk lining for vests and jackets, sometimes you’ll use the same

fabric as outer fabric and lining.

Confused? Don’t worry - for each of the fabric types we discuss in the Flamenco

Fabric Guide I’ll indicate the type of lining I recommend.


I remember the first time a dancer brought a flamenco dress with the outer

fabric forming ugly bags between the seams, almost like an accordion. The

dress was also way too short. The girl was hoping I’d find a way to rescue it. At

first I had no idea what had happened until it dawned on me – it’s what you get

when you wash the dress at a temperature the outer fabric can handle but

IMAGE 13 - INTERLINED SKIRT





which makes the lining shrink. The lining isn’t hanging lose on the inside of the

garment, each lining piece is joined with the corresponding outer fabric piece

before sewing the pieces together. So if one fabric shrinks and the other

doesn’t you have a problem that’s difficult or impossible to fix.

Lesson learnt: Always wash the dress at a temperature both fabrics can handle.

In case of doubt either pre-wash the fabrics and/or wash in cold water.

FULLY OR PARTIALLY LINED?

Again, the answer depends on the fabric you’re using, the type of garment

you’re making and the look you want to achieve.

To get you started here is what I do:

TOPS

In most cases I line the entire body. Sleeves go without lining.

Even if the design is closer to a blouse than a typical flamenco top -

with a collar and front button closure - if it is close fitting you’ll want to

line it in order to reinforce the material and to feel more comfortable.

For lacy tops I sometimes only line the bodice leaving the shoulder

area unlined.

I sometimes line sleeves if the fabric is very delicate or it’s the look I’m looking

for.

Always wash the

dress at a

temperature both

fabrics can handle.

IMAGE 14 - BLOUSE WITH LINED BODY

IMAGE 15 - DRESS WITH LACY SHOULDER AREA






SKIRTS

In most cases I line skirts down to below the hip but above the knee. That

leaves the lower part of the skirt with the ruffles flowing freely. Also, this way

the lining doesn’t show when you grab the skirt while dancing (many dancers

really hate the lining showing, especially if the color isn’t the same as the outer

fabric).

DRESSES

Just think of a dress as top + skirt in one piece and use the guidelines above to

help you decide.

VESTS

Vests are always fully lined. You’ll wear a vest on top of another garment so

you’ll be using a satin type lining. If you want to make a vest from a light weight

fabric and you’ll find that it lacks body if you just work with your outer fabric

and the satin lining. In those cases I add a layer of poplin between outer fabric

and lining.

SHORT JACKETS

IMAGE 16 - SHORT JACKET WITH LINED BODY AND UNLINED NARROW SLEEVES





Short jackets for dancing usually have a lined body and unlined sleeves. Apart

from that, what applies to vests applies to jackets as well.

BATA DE COLA

When I made my very first bata de cola the client asked for it to be lightweight.

In my innocence I thought lining the entire skirt and tail area would add too

much weight and require too much fabric so I only lined the skirt part.

Big mistake. The bata ended up being way too light and without the body it

needs to move well. With all the work that went into it the bata was beautiful

to look at but unfortunately not at all functional.

Lesson learnt: A bata de cola must be fully lined.

WHEN TO FULLY LINE A SKIRT OR DRESS

One of my first large orders included making 7 identical white dresses with 7

small ruffles coming up to just above the knee. Not knowing any better I

partially lined them down to just below the hip. The dresses just started to flare

out in that area. They looked great during the final fitting and I was looking

forward to seeing them on stage – a large theater in Almería, in the south of

Spain.

I sat in one of the last rows with a feeling of quiet satisfaction. When the

dancers stepped out, in their white dresses with the lights and everyone’s

attention focused on them, all I saw was the sharp horizontal line where the

lining finished, separating the bright white top of the dress from the dull

looking, unlined lower part of the dress. Really not the look we’d intended.

I don’t know how many people in the audience noticed this but the dancers

did. They weren’t happy and I’m sure they never wore these dresses again.

Lesson learnt: If you are using white, off-white, beige or any other light colored

or somewhat transparent fabric (in case of doubt hold it against the light and

check if your hand shines through) you’ll want to line down to where the ruffles

start. If the ruffles only reach up to somewhere below the knee it is usually

easier (and prettier) to fully line the skirt.

If for some reason you don’t want to fully line a skirt with few ruffles at least

take the lining far enough down to where the skirt flares out enough to not be

close to the body (e.g. just above the knee). This way the end of the lining may

Batas de cola are

always fully lined




be visible when you look closely but it won’t be the first thing someone notices

about the skirt or dress.

WHAT COLOR SHOULD YOUR LINING FABRIC BE?

Choosing the same or a color matching that of your outer fabric is generally a

good bet but ..

Lining fabrics don’t always come in a large range of colors so it may not always

be possible to find the same or a similar color. Given that the lining isn’t visible

from the outside you’re usually fine with white, off-white or black lining,

whatever you like best.


Most light colored fabrics are a little transparent. Especially for prints (think

black background with white polka dots or flowers) using black lining leaves

your polka dots looking dull and sad whereas white or light colored lining

makes them really stand out beautifully. That’s why I often use white lining

even if the main color of the fabric is dark.

If you’re unsure just place your fabric on top of some white and then some

black fabric and choose the color of lining you like best. You’re the designer,

you decide.

WHERE AND WHEN TO BUY FLAMENCO FABRICS IN SPAIN You might be surprised to know that there isn’t a huge number of fabric shops

with a large variety of flamenco fabrics. I surely couldn’t believe it when I first

went looking for fabric shops and found that most stock plenty of towels,

sheets, curtains and all kinds of fashion fabrics but only a limited selection of

flamenco fabrics or none at all. And I’m talking about Andalusia, the heart of

flamenco.

Over time I learnt that I usually find what I’m looking for at

www.flamentex.es

www.tiendatelas.com

http://www.tejidosreytex.es/

If you are using

light colored or

somewhat

transparent fabric

you’ll want to line

down to where the

ruffles start. If the

ruffles only reach

up to somewhere

below the knee it is

easier to fully line

the skirt.


http://www.flamentex.es/

http://www.tiendatelas.com/

http://www.tejidosreytex.es/



http://www.tejidosalberto.com/

http://tejidosbuenosaires.es/

You can also check out the following article on the topic

http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/2013/02/flamenco-fabrics-where-to-

buy-online/

If you consider buying from any of these places keep in mind that it is not

common for the staff to speak English. So if your Spanish skills aren’t anything

to show off you are better off shopping locally with the help of the fabric

swatches that you receive with this Flamenco Fabric Guide.

FLAMENCO FABRIC SEASON

You’re dancing all year round so you’re probably wondering why there is a

season for buying flamenco fabrics.

Fabric suppliers and flamenco dress designers don’t really think of dancers.

Flamenco fashion is all about the ferias. Most places celebrate their ferias in

spring/summer. The season is opened by the annual flamenco fashion show

SIMOF (see photo above) in January and the first new flamenco fabrics tend to

If you consider

buying from any of

these places keep

in mind that it is

not common for

the staff to speak

English

IMAGE 17 - SIMOF, ONE OF MY FAVOURITE COLLECTIONS EVER BY VICKY MARTIN BERROCAL


http://www.tejidosalberto.com/

http://tejidosbuenosaires.es/

http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/2013/02/flamenco-fabrics-where-to-buy-online/

http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/2013/02/flamenco-fabrics-where-to-buy-online/


http://www.vickymartinberrocal.es/



arrive in February, just in time for the dressmakers to get busy creating

costumes for the ferias and other local festivities where the ladies wear

flamenco dresses. For the rest of the year shops just sell what is left, no new

fabrics arrive until the following February. You can imagine that in

December/January your choices are severely limited if you are looking for

typical flamenco colors or prints.

HOW MUCH FABRIC DO YOU NEED? A client of mine, Marie, rings me up and tells me she bought some fabric she

liked and wants me to make a costume for her. We meet and she explains to

me that she’d love a skirt with a few ruffles at the bottom and a large triangular

shawl, perhaps with a ruffle or some fringe along the edges. She pulls the fabric

out of her bag and wraps it around her waist to show me what she has in mind.

I’m looking at the piece of fabric, 1.5m I guess, 1.5m wide, and I’m waiting for

her to pull out more fabric but she doesn’t. To her it looks like a lot of material.

Wrapped around her waist the fabric seems way longer and wider than needed

for a skirt.

But a flamenco skirt isn’t straight, it is usually made from 6 pieces that flare out

from the hip down. 1.5m of fabric isn’t going to get us very far. And we’re not

even talking about ruffles yet, let alone a shawl!

Another client shows

me a dress she’d like

to shorten about 30

centimeters and use

the material cut off to

make long sleeves. It

isn’t until I show her

the pattern piece for

a long sleeve that she

understands that

what seems to her

nothing more than a

narrow tube requires

a piece of fabric

much larger than she

imagined. IMAGE 18 - FRONT, BACK AND SLEEVE PATTERN PIECES FOR A SHORT

WRAP BLOUSE





It takes experience to accurately estimate the amount of fabric required for a

flamenco costume. It is usually a lot more than you think.

If you have a pattern for the costume you want to make you’ll know how much

fabric you need. But if you don’t you might be wondering how much fabric you

should buy.

The answer, of course, depends ..

.. on the type of garment, the flare of the skirt, number, size and fullness of

ruffles, type of fabric (you’ll need more of fabrics with patterns that need to be

matched or fabrics like velvet)

But as a rule of thumb you’ll need approximately

1.5m for a top or blouse

0.5m for a short vest

1.2m for a short jacket with long sleeves

2.3m for a typical gored flamenco skirt (without ruffles, medium flare).

You’ll get away with 1.2m if you’re making a very narrow skirt but need

approx. 3.5m or more for a skirt with lots of flare (no ruffles)

3.5m for a dress with sleeves (without ruffles, medium flared skirt)

How much fabric you need for ruffles depends on

how many meters of ruffles you need. For a dress or skirt that depends

on how many ruffles you want and how much flare the skirt has. For

example, for just the bottom ruffle of a full circle skirt you’ll need about

5m of ruffles, whereas for a skirt with just a little flare you’ll be fine

with just 2.5m of ruffles

the size of the ruffles – smaller ruffles need less fabric than larger

ruffles

how much volume your ruffles have – loose, just slightly wavy ruffles

need a lot less fabric than dense ruffles with a lot of volume

the type of ruffles you like – gathered ruffles tend to need less fabric

than circular ruffles, especially if you only gather them slightly

The amount of

fabric you need for

your flamenco

costume depends

on skirt flare,

number, size and

volume of the

ruffles and varies

considerably.




With so many factors influencing the amount of fabric needed it is impossible

to give one ballpark

figure that would

actually be useful.

So I’m giving you a

couple of

examples:

The blue skirt on

the left needs

approx. 5.5m of

fabric for the skirt

+ ruffles

The skirt on the right (not the top, just the skirt) needs approx. 3.5m of

fabric for the skirt + ruffles

For a bata de cola you need approx. 4m of fabric for the skirt, another 4m

of lining (often the same material) and minimum 6m of fabric for the

ruffles + 5-6m

for the

underside

ruffles.

As you’ll

imagine I

recommend buying

a bit more fabric if in

doubt. What you

spend more you’ll

save in time and

frustration. It is so

much more fun and

rewarding when you

can just cut your

pieces and sew your costume instead of spending hours trying to figure out

how to get an extra meter of ruffles out of the tiny scraps you have left.

IMAGE 19 - MEDIUM FLARE SKIRT WITH CIRCULAR RUFFLES

IMAGE 20 - NARROW SKIRT WITH

GATHERED RUFFLES

IMAGE 21 - BATA DE COLA







A WORD ABOUT FABRIC NAMES. Names are very general and at times seem arbitrary, at least here in Spain.

What a particular type of fabric is called varies from manufacturer to

manufacturer and sometimes from one region to another. For example, a

medium weight poplin, commonly used for bata de colas or feria dresses is

usually referred to as “tana” in Andalusia. If you ask for “tana” in Madrid you’ll

get blank stares or, even worse, a different type of material.

Often a name covers a range of different fabrics. Many times I’ve approached

the shop assistant of a fabric shop or wholesale place (you think they’d know)

with roles of several different fabrics I liked. I asked what they were called so I

could find them again in the future, just to be told that they were all “crepe” ..

Given the huge variety of synthetic fabrics and fabric mixes available I guess it is

impossible to uniquely identify each one. This is one of the reasons this

Flamenco Fabric Guide includes fabric swatches. Holding an actual piece of

fabric in your hands helps you more than 1000 words of description or 100

photos.

FLAMENCO FABRICS The fabrics in this section are listed in order of popularity with the most

commonly used materials first. All photos are of costumes I have made.

CREPE

Crepe is the single most commonly used material for

flamenco dance

costumes.

SPANISH NAME:

Crespon, koshivo or

koshibo

COMPOSITION:

100% polyester

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in large range of colors and

prints

Doesn’t wrinkle or shrink

IMAGE 22 - CREPE DRESS WITH LACE DETAILS

IMAGE 23 - CREPE TWO PIECE

COSTUMES






Drapes beautifully

Light weight

Resilient

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Tops

Blouses

Skirts

Dresses

Bata de cola (often for ruffles only, it may be used for the skirt body

if lined with a heavier poplin)

RECOMMENDED LINING:

Light weight, soft poplin

For tops some dancers prefer a heavier poplin so they feel more “tucked

in”.

STRETCH

Stretch is most commonly used for bata de colas but a lot of dancers also like it

for regular skirts and dresses. Even though the name suggests that it is elastic,

IMAGE 24 - BATA DE COLA MADE FROM

CREPE

IMAGE 25 - BATA DE COLA MADE FROM STRETCH






it isn’t. It is a loosely woven material which makes it appear somewhat elastic.

It is a sturdy but light weight fabric with more body than crepe.

SPANISH NAME:

Stretch

COMPOSITION:

100% polyester

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in large range of colors

Prints are rarely available (I’ve only ever seen a few different types of

polka dots in limited color

variations)

Doesn’t wrinkle or shrink

Drapes nicely

Light weight but with body

Resilient

One of the cheapest fabrics around

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Tops

Skirts

Dresses

Bata de cola

Vests

Jackets

Trousers

RECOMMENDED LINING:

I prefer using Stretch to line Stretch, especially for the large pieces of a bata de

cola. Stretch is loosely woven and joining pieces of Stretch with tightly woven

pieces of poplin lining can be tricky. Alternatively you can experiment and see

whether light or medium weight poplin works for you.

POPLIN

This medium weight, fairly stiff fabric is mostly used for batas de cola and feria

dresses. It is also popular for little girls’ dance dresses. Ruffles made from this

material have a lot of volume which is really cute for little girls.

IMAGE 26 - DRESS MADE FROM STRETCH WITH LACE TOP





SPANISH NAME:

Popelin, popelin flamenco, tana

COMPOSITION:

65%polyester, 35% cotton

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in large range of colors

and prints

Doesn’t wrinkle much

Medium weight and fairly stiff

Resilient

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Bata de cola

Skirts (for feria or little girls)

Dresses (for feria or little girls)

RECOMMENDED LINING:

For batas de cola I use the same poplin for outer fabric and lining.

For skirts and dresses use light weight poplin.

COTTON LYCRA

Cotton lycra is most popular for feria dresses. For dancers it is mainly

used for batas de cola, tops or little girls dresses. When you buy the

fabric it has a smooth surface, body and subtle shine to it. It is a great

choice if you are allergic or strongly dislike synthetic fabrics.

Unfortunately, it loses the slick look quickly (a bit like linen - it’s never

again quite as beautiful as on the roll in the shop). If you like your

dress or top a little elastic for added comfort you’ll love cotton lycra.

But it is a bit like a pair of jeans – tight at the start or when you wash it

and getting loser over time. Often dancers will want it taken in again

and again. As you might guess by now I don’t really recommend it but

you might be conquered by the beautiful colors and prints available

and put up with the drawbacks.

SPANISH NAME:

Saten licra

IMAGE 27 - GIRLS FERIA

COSTUME MADE FROM

POPLIN

IMAGE 28 - BATA DE COLA MADE FROM POPLIN

IMAGE 29 - FERIA DRESS MADE FROM

COTTON LYCRA







COMPOSITION:

97% cotton, 3% lycra

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in large range of colors and prints

Wrinkles a lot

Medium weight and fairly stiff (loses stiffness

quickly but still not suited for skirts)

Resilient

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Bata de cola

Tops

Skirts (for feria or little girls)

Dresses (for feria or little girls)

Vests or jackets

RECOMMENDED LINING:

Elastic light weight poplin is the perfect material to line cotton lycra. It has the

same elasticity so you maintain the most treasured quality of the material and

both are easy to work together.

ELASTIC POPLIN

Even though this fabric is mainly used as lining (listed again under

linings for clarity) for cotton lycra it works really well on its own for

fitted shirts or blouses.

SPANISH NAME:

Popelin licra

COMPOSITION:

96% COTTON 4% ELASTAN

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in a limited range of colors

Wrinkles a lot

Light weight

Slightly elastic

IMAGE 30 - GIRLS' DRESSES MADEF ROM COTTON LYCRA

IMAGE 31 - BLOUSE MADE FROM ELASTIC

POPLIN






COMMONLY USED FOR:

Blouses and shirts

Lining

RECOMMENDED LINING:

No lining

GEORGETTE

I love georgette. It has a soft drape and a little more weight than crepe so it

moves beautifully. It looks delicate but it really isn’t. It isn’t as “airy” as chiffon

but more elegant than crepe.

SPANISH NAME:

Georgette

COMPOSITION:

100% POLYESTER

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in a wide range of colors

Beautiful drape

Doesn’t wrinkle

Light weight

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Blouses

Dresses

Skirts

RECOMMENDED LINING:


Georgette is a tiny bit transparent so the

color of the lining is likely to shine through.

Go for the same color as the outer fabric or

for a lining color that enhances the color of

the georgette.

IMAGE 32 - DRESS MADE FROM GEORGETTE

IMAGE 33 - COSTUMES MADE FROM GEORGETTE WITH CREPE

UNDERSKIRTS






CHIFFON

Chiffon comes in many variations – some soft with drape, others rather

stiff, but all rather delicate and at least somewhat transparent. Chiffon

is a great choice for long, wide sleeves. Being transparent it doesn’t

entirely hide your arm so the sleeves won’t look bulky while still

covering the arm. I also love it for ruffles, especially when looking for a

light weight, “floaty” look. Chiffon ruffles are beautiful for elastic skirts

– they add elegance but virtually no weight.


Use a more resilient fabric for the bottom ruffle. The nails of your

flamenco shoe will ruin a chiffon ruffle way too quickly.

SPANISH NAME:

Gasa

COMPOSITION:

100% POLYESTER

CHARACTERISTICS:


Elegant

Somewhat to very transparent

Extremely light weight

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Blouses

Dresses (if lined)

Ruffles

RECOMMENDED LINING:



Interlining chiffon with poplin is tricky. Chiffon is usually pretty slippery and

loosely woven so joining it to the much stiffer poplin takes some practice.

IMAGE 34 - TOP MADE FROM CREPE

WITH CHIFFON SLEEVES

IMAGE 35 - THREE WOMENS COSTUMES MADE FROM CHIFFON






COTTON

Cotton fabrics are not commonly used for flamenco costumes. They don’t

“flow” and wrinkle more than you’ll like for your dance costumes. They can

be a wonderful choice for blouses and men’s shirts though. If you’re looking

for a top with body and a crisp look (and don’t mind ironing) you’ve got a lot

of choices available. It can also be a great choice for little girls’ dresses

SPANISH NAME:

Algodón

COMPOSITION:

100% ALGODÓN

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in a wide range of colors and prints

Natural fiber

Does wrinkle

Body

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Blouses

Shirts

Flamenco tops

Little girls costumes

Vests or jackets

RECOMMENDED LINING:


None for blouses and shirts

SATIN

Satin typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. You’ll find it in a variety of

qualities, from fine and slippery to firm and heavy weight. Satin fabrics, usually

the light weight ones, have become more and more popular in recent years.

When I started sewing flamenco costumes no dancer wanted anything shiny in

their costume. Later they started to use the matte side for the skirt or dress

and mix in shiny ruffles. In recent years many dancers love shiny costumes.

IMAGE 36 – THE EXCEPTION: SKIRT MADE FROM COTTON

IMAGE 37 - COTTON TOP






I don’t particularly like the slippery satin fabrics for

the body of skirts or dresses. They tend to be more

loosely woven than the poplin lining and often

relax even more over time, so avoiding that

“baggy” look can be tricky.

SPANISH NAME:

raso

COMPOSITION:

USUALLY 100% POLIESTER

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in a wide range of colors and

prints

Usually one shiny and one matte side

Usually doesn’t wrinkle

Drapes beautifully

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Blouses

Skirts

Dresses

RECOMMENDED LINING:


ELASTIC SATIN

Dancers who like the glossy finish of satin usually love elastic satin fabrics.

They have all the elegance of satin with the added luxury of elastic

comfort.

SPANISH NAME:

Raso elastico

COMPOSITION:

USUALLY 100% POLYESTER

CHARACTERISTICS:

IMAGE 39 - SATIN

DRESS WITH BLACK

CREPE RUFFLES

IMAGE 38 - SATIN DRESS

IMAGE 40 - ELASTIC SATIN DRESS







Slightly elastic

Available in a wide range of colors and prints

Usually one shiny and one matte side

Usually doesn’t wrinkle

Drapes beautifully

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Blouses

Skirts

Dresses

RECOMMENDED LINING:

Light weight, elastic poplin

LACE

Lace, beautiful, elegant, delicate lace! Instantly adds luxury to your

flamenco costume. It isn’t a material that is traditionally used for

flamenco costumes but it has become increasingly popular in recent

years, especially the elastic variants.

The one thing to keep in mind though is its delicate nature – the very

thing that attracts you to it.

In order to enjoy your lacy flamenco costume you’ll want to

Use a lace that isn’t too exquisite – remember, you’re making a

sports outfit

Use elastic lace or consider lining the pieces if you want a snug

fit (think narrow sleeves - close fitting, delicate lace sleeves are

bound to rip, at the seam if you’re lucky but more likely right

next to it, in the middle of the material)

Make sure you’re not using it for the bottom ruffle. The nails of

the dance shoes will destroy the lace and your heel might even

get stuck.

Use your lacy costume for special occasions only. It suffers not

only when dancing but also in the laundry. It’s not a “battle

horse” material for flamenco costumes. If you’re looking for a

costume to wear every day in class or in a tablao choose a

IMAGE 41 - ELASTIC

SATIN COSTUME

IMAGE 42 - DRESS WITH LACE TOP

AND SLEEVES AND HAND TATTED

DETAIL BELOW THE BUST

IMAGE 43 - LACE DRESS WITH POPLIN LINING


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tablao






sturdier material.

SPANISH NAME:

Encaje, blonda

COMPOSITION:

100% NYLON OR NYLON AND POLYESTER MIX

CHARACTERISTICS:

Delicate and luxurious

Available in a large variety of textures and patterns, elastic or

non-elastic

Doesn’t wrinkle

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Flamenco tops

Dresses

Ruffles

RECOMMENDED LINING:

Regular Lace: The lining depends on the look you’re trying to achieve. You

might use just a normal poplin lining or add another layer of outer fabric

between the poplin lining and the lace. Most of the time sleeves are not lined.

Elastic Lace: If you like the added comfort elastic lace gives you don’t sacrifice it

using a non-elastic lining. Ideally you’ll want a material that is pleasant to wear

on the skin and has the same elasticity as your lace, usually a type of jersey or

lycra.

EMBROIDERED COTTON OR PERFORATED COTTON

Embroidered or perforated cotton fabrics don’t drape well but they do work

beautifully for blouses, tops or little girls dresses, where some volume and

bounce is always cute and pretty

SPANISH NAME:

Algodón bordado o perforado

COMPOSITION:

100% ALGODÓN IMAGE 45 - EMBROIDERED COTTON TOP

IMAGE 44 - DRESS MADE FROM LACE OVER

SATIN, WITH POPLIN LINING






CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in a wide range of colors and patterns

Natural fiber

Does wrinkle

Body

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Blouses

Flamenco tops

Girls dresses

RECOMMENDED LINING:

Poplin lining

VELVET

Velvet is a great choice if you are looking for a

luscious, elegant, special dance costume. It is

available in a variety of qualities and colors, elastic

and non-elastic. If you are making a skirt or dress

you don’t want your velvet to be too heavy or stiff.

You also want to have a close look at the wrong side

of the fabric. The wrong side of some velvets, usually

the cheaper ones that are light weight without much

drape, is made of a material that tends to stick to

your tights


All pieces need to be cut in the same direction so

you’ll need more fabric than your pattern might

indicate.

SPANISH NAME:

Terciopelo

COMPOSITION:

100% POLYESTER OR APPROX. 90% POLYESTER + 10%

SPANDEX FOR ELASTIC VELVET

IMAGE 46 - PERFORATED COTTON DRESS

IMAGE 47 - VELVET DRESS & VELVET MENS TROUSERS






CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in a wide range of colors and

qualities

Beautiful reflections under stage lights

Doesn’t wrinkle

Not easy to combine with other materials.

Velvet costumes are usually made from

velvet only.

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Flamenco tops

Dresses

Skirts

RECOMMENDED LINING:

Poplin lining for non-elastic velvets

Depending on the quality of the wrong side of the fabric you might not need

any lining at all.

Choose elastic material (e.g. jersey) for elastic velvet

PIQUÉ

A few years ago a flamenco school ordered outfits for a

group of little flamenco dancer girls. The teacher and

parents of the girls had already chosen the fabric. It was the

first time I worked with piqué. It is a firm material that until

then I wouldn’t have considered suitable for flamenco

dresses. Making the dresses for that group of girls I learnt

that I hadn’t done the fabric justice. It is soft enough to

adapt well to a dancer’s body and is stiff enough to give

ruffles for little girls’ dresses lots of lift and body. It is

beautiful to work with.

SPANISH NAME:

pique

COMPOSITION:

65% POLYESTER, 35% COTTON

IMAGE 48 - VELVET DRESS

IMAGE 49 - PIQUÉ DRESS






CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in a wide range of usually pastel colors and patterns

Does wrinkle somewhat

Body

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Flamenco tops

Girls dresses

RECOMMENDED LINING:

Poplin lining

CAN CAN

Can can is a stiff, plastic like material typically used to make the underside

ruffles of batas de cola. You might also consider it when you want to give

ruffles extra lift and volume. You can often see feria dresses or outfits for

little girls that have can can ruffles underneath the normal fabric ruffles.

SPANISH NAME:

Can can

COMPOSITION:

100% POLYAMIDE

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in a range of basic

colors

Stiff, plastic like material

Loses stiffness over time

Adds body

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Underside ruffles of batas de cola

Ruffles for little girls or feria

dresses to give volume and bounce

RECOMMENDED LINING:

none

IMAGE 50 - GREEN CAN CAN

RUFFLES

IMAGE 51 - RED CAN CAN RUFFLES






STIFF ORGANZA

Organza is a stiff and transparent material - a great alternative to can can,

although a more expensive one. It is available in a wider range of colors than

can can and a good deal easier to handle because it isn’t quite as stiff. It still

works well for batas de cola though.

SPANISH NAME:

Organdi Flamenca

COMPOSITION:

100% polyester

CHARACTERISTICS:

Stiff (not quite as stiff as can can)

Transparent

Available in a large range of colors

More expensive than can can

COMMONLY USED FOR:

Underside ruffles of batas de cola

Ruffles for little girls or feria dresses to

give volume and bounce

RECOMMENDED LINING:

none

ELASTIC FABRICS

Earlier we’ve talked about when to use elastic fabrics for flamenco dance

costumes. When choosing elastic fabrics you want to look for light weight

fabrics that drape nicely. Usually dancers prefer darker colors since light color

skirts may be somewhat transparent (no dancer likes their undies showing

through) and/or show sweat when dancing. There are lots of different types of

elastic fabrics available (well, here in Spain I’d love to see a more reliable supply

of materials, colors and prints but you may have more luck where you live). I’d

split them in 3 big groups:

IMAGE 52 - UNDERSIDE RUFFLES OF BATA DE COLA MADE FROM

ORGANZA





POLYESTER KNITS

The most commonly used materials for

dance skirts or dresses are made from 100%

polyester or approx. 90% polyester and 10%

spandex. They tend to maintain their elastic

quality well, don’t shrink and don’t wrinkle

– just what you want.

COTTON KNITS

Cotton jersey knit fabrics can be very

tempting. You can find beautiful colors and

prints and they often have a gorgeous, soft

touch. They can be a good

choice if you are aware of a few

things:

May or may not shrink

so it’s best to pre-wash

Colors may wash out

over time

The light weight ones

that have the drape you’re

looking for are often pretty see

through. If that bothers you

consider lining the skirt or wear

it with an underskirt

They usually lose their

elasticity over time (sometimes

much quicker than you’d like)

LYCRA

Up until very recently I would have said that flamenco dancers

don’t use “real”/swim suit lycra for their costumes.

But a few clients of mine have now discovered it and love it, both

with glossy and matte finish

IMAGE 53 - POLYESTER KNIT PRACTICE SKIRTS

IMAGE 54 - COTTON KNIT DRESS

IMAGE 55 - LYCRA TOP WITH CREPE SKIRT AND RUFFLES








Very elastic, usually in both directions so you want to go easy on the

ruffles (or choose a very light weight material for the ruffles) because

they will drag the skirt down

This kind of lycra tends to be way more expensive than other elastic

fabrics. Given that a flamenco costume requires a fair bit of material

the difference can be substantial.

It isn’t the easiest fabric to work with. It is slippery and very elastic so

it’ll take some practice to get it to “behave”

If you like colors other than black or red you need to be aware that

your costume won’t look “flamenco” unless you add some ruffles or

typical “flamenco” complements like fringes or Manila scarfs etc.

LININGS

We’ve talked about how and when to add lining to a flamenco costume earlier

in the book. Below you’ll find the characteristics of the most commonly used

lining fabrics. As always, they are not the only ones possible. Sometimes you

might want to use the heavier poplin to give a garment more body. For elastic

laces for example you will probably look at polyester or cotton knits, one that is

more or less as elastic as your outer fabric.

POPLIN LINING

SPANISH NAME:

Forro de popelin, popelin fino

COMPOSITION:

65% POLYESTER 35% COTTON

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in a decent range of colors

Wrinkles a bit

Light weight

Pleasant to wear on the skin




ELASTIC POPLIN LINING

It is the same fabric as elastic poplin we talked about for shirts or blouses

earlier.

SPANISH NAME:

Popelin licra

COMPOSITION:

96% COTTON 4% ELASTAN

CHARACTERISTICS:

Available in a limited range of colors

Wrinkles a lot

Light weight

Slightly elastic

SATIN LINING

Satin linings are used for garments that are worn over other garments, in the

context of flamenco costumes we’re talking about vests and short jackets. They

can be found in a variety of fibers from rayon to silk (check out other options in

this blog post on Craftsy) Silk probably wouldn’t be your first choice for a

flamenco costume but then again, you won’t wash a vest or short jacket as

often as your practice skirt. So if you really love it go for it.

SPANISH NAME:

Forro de raso

COMPOSITION:

DEPENDS ON THE MATERIAL

CHARACTERISTICS:


Glossy finish

Light weight


http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/10/best-lining-fabric/

http://www.craftsy.com/



FABRIC BY USE

Skirt Dress Blouse / Shirt

Top Bata de cola

Vest Jacket Trousers

Crepe

Stretch

Poplin

Cotton Lycra

Elastic Poplin

Georgette

Chiffon

Cotton

Satin

Elastic Satin

Lace

Emboidered or perforated cotton

Velvet

Piqué

Can can

ruffles

Organza

ruffles

Knits/Lycra

- great choice

- can work under certain circumstances. Use when you know what you’re

doing. Review the section dedicated to the fabric for tips




CONCLUSION Now that you know a lot more about the fabrics that give the best results for

flamenco dance costume I hope you feel inspired to get creative yourself so you

can show up at your next flamenco class or performance in your very own,

brand new dance costume and turn heads.

If you haven’t yet looked at the larger versions of the images online click here

to view the online album.

I’d love to hear from you (http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/contact or

email me directly at [email protected]). I’d love to know

whether you found the Flamenco Fabric Guide useful, if there is anything else

you would have liked to see included, what you didn’t find interesting, what

else other than fabrics would you like to learn etc. so I can provide the best

possible service to you.

Thanks so much & wishing you lots of fun sewing!

Anke

Anke Herrmann

about.me/anke_herrmann



http://www.flamencodressmaking.com/contact

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