PERMANENT, SEMI-PERMANENT AND

TEMPORARY FINISHES

Any operation (other than preparation and coloring) that

improves the appearance and/or usefulness of fabric after it

leaves the loom or knitting machine.

Impart certain special properties

Stiffness

Softness

Water proofing

Flame proofing

Moth proofing

To improve wearing qualities of cloth by making it shrinkage

resistance, crease resistant or free from pills & soiling

Based on degree of permanence:

Finishing

Permanent Finish

DurableFinish

Semi durable finish

Temporay finish

Permanent Finish: Usually involve a chemical change in fibre

structure and do not change or alter throughout the life of the fabric

Semi-permanent finish: Last through several laundering or dry

cleanings and many are renewable in home laundering or dry

cleaning.

Temporary finish: Are removed or substantially diminished the

first time the article is laundered or dry cleaned.

If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and

remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and

washing treatments, then the finish is said to be permanent

finish.

Sanforising

Fulling

Mercerization

Napping and sueding

Resin Finish

Water Proof

Flame Proof

Sanforising is a process where the fabric is run through a

sanforizer, a machine that has drums filled with hot steam.

It is done to control the shrinkage of the fabric.

Rubber blankets and needles are used

Cellulose fibres(cotton) are known for their comfort during wear

and various other favourable properties.

Resins are used for various wet finishes basically on cellulose and

cellulosic blends .

Resin based finishes create cross –linking that increases

intermolecular rigidity.

The resin finishes had been mainly been developed for the basic

problems of crease formations on cellulosic fibers, thus these

finishes came to be known as – “Anti crease or Anti crush or

Crease Resistant or Crease Recovery finish ,easy care finish

or Resin finish since resins are used for these finish”.

Minimize shrinkage

Weight of fabric

Appearance

Dimensional stability RESINS

DEPOSITION TYPE

CROSS-LINKING TYPE

These resins form a surface coating on the applied substrate

(fabric).

No reaction between fibers and the resin molecules.

These type of resins give stiffness to the fabric and some extent of

crease recovery, which is lower than cross-linking resins.

If cured these resins show behavior similar to cross-linking type of

resins.

Some resins of this category are as follows:-

Phenol –Formaldehyde resins

• Cross-linking type of resins chemically react with substrate

molecules and form intermolecular cross-links.

• These are much durable and better than deposition type.

• They are also known as N-Methylol compounds as methylol groups

are attached to the nitrogen .

• These resins are called as precondensates which require further

polymerization to form resins.

• Some Cross-linking type of resins are as follows:

• DMU – Dimethylol Urea

PROPERTY EFFECT

CREASE RECOVERY INCREASED

WASH SHRINKAGE DECREASED

STIFFNESS INCREASED

ABRASION RESISTANCE LOWERED

TEAR STRENGTH LOWERED

HANDLE HARSHER

EFFECT ON DYES TENDS TO YELLOW

TOXIC WASTE FORMALDEHYDE FLAMES

BLEACHING CL RETENTION

This finish consist of treating the material with cold,

concentrated sodium hydroxide solution. Mercerization is a

permanent finish, and it is one of the few finishes applied

prior to dyeing.

This finish imparts luster to the cotton, increases its strength

by nearly 25 percent, and improves dye affinity, producing

brighter shades than are possible with un mercerized cotton.

It also enhances fabric hand and drape ability.

Napping is a mechnical finish in which the woven or knitted

fabrics are passed through rotating,bristled , wire covered,

brushes, resulting in raised fiber surface.

Napped fabrics have a softer hand and provide better

insulation than the same materials un napped because they

can entrap more air, hence their wide use in blankets,

sleepwear, and winter clothing.

The finishes that repel/resist water to penetrate into the fabric

thereby preventing it from soaking the fabric come under this

category of repellent finishes.

The term flame retardant or fire resistance or fire repellent

can be defined as one that does not propagate flame

although it may burn or char when exposed to heat. Flame

retardants are materials that inhibit or resist the spread of

fire.

Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if

it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards.

Schreiner Calendaring

Schreiner calendering produces a low, soft-key luster on the

fabric surface as distinct from the high glaze of the glazing

calender or the luster shine of the simple calender.

The finish is widely used on nylon tricot, cotton and cotton-

polyester sateen, and damask table linens.

To produce this effect, one of the steel cylinders of the

calender is embossed with very fine diagonal lines, about

250 lines per inch. These embossing are barely visible to the

naked eye.

In addition to the soft luster, Schreiner calendering also

produces a softer hand and improved fabric cover.

A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is

known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears

during subsequent washing and usage.

Calendaring

Embossing

Starching

Softening

Calendering is a process where fabric is compressed by

passing it between two or more rolls under controlled

conditions of time, temperature and pressure.

A calendar is a machine consisting of two or more massive

rolls which are compressed by means of hydraulic cylinders

applying pressure at the journals.

The calendering finish is easily destroyed, and does not last

well. Washing in water destroys it, as does wear with time

Smoothening of the surface of fabric

Increase in fabric lustre

Closing the threads of woven structure

Decreasing air permeability

Increasing fabric opacity

Improving handle of the fabric

Flattening slubs

Obtaining silk-like to high gloss finishes

Surface patterning by embossing

Consolidation of nonwovens.

chasing calender

glazing/ friction calender

embossing calender

› cire

› moire

felt calender

schreneir calender

rubber coating calender

Embossing is a technique to produce a raised or 3-dimensional image on all sorts of fabrics.

In the general course two ways to emboss are:› dry embossing and

› heat embossing .

Dry embossing, also called relief embossing, with the help of a stylus, stencil, and a few other supplies.

In the heat embossing, also known as the stamp and heat embossing, we generally use special powder, ink, and a heat source. Both of the embossing techniques used by our side are fairly simple and offer the striking images to the fabrics.

Required for more pleasant hand and better drapability

Fabrics are harsher and stiffer because of their construction

or due to some prior finishing process

Softening can be done by either mechanical or chemical

process

Simple Calendering softens hand, but it is temporary

Silicone compounds are used mostly as softener

Silicone finish is a durable finish and require curing

Different types of emulsified oils and waxes can be used but

they are semi-durable finish

Some fabrics need to be made stiffer and more crisp than

hey would otherwise be in order to fulfill the intended end

use.

It is done with chemicals applied by pad and then dried or

cured.

Resins are widely used for stiffening.

Example buckram,crinoline, lawn, and voile.

Basics of Dyeing and Finishing; Includes Dyeing Primer

Textile finishing by R.S.Prayag

Textile finishing by W.S.Murphy

Joseph’s Introductory Textile Science - Sixth Edition, Peyton

Hudson, Anne Clapp, and Dianne Kness; Harcourt, Brace

and Jovanovich

Dictionaw of Fiber & Textile Technology , Hoechst Celanese

1978. Available from Hoechst Celanes

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