Fig. 10-CO, p. 264 Fig. 10-1, p. 266 Wave direction Wave Fig. 10-1, p. 266 Wave direction Wave Stepped Art Fig. 10-2, p. 266 Direction of wave motion AB Wavelength Height Still water level Crest Trough Frequency: Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second Orbital path of individual water molecule at water surface Period: Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B Fig. 10-3, p. 267 Direction of wave motion Wave-length Still water level Crest Trough Crest 1/2 wave- length depth Fig. 10-4, p. 267 Stokes drift (mass transport) No mass transport Wave Closed orbit after one period Open orbit after one period Table 10-1, p. 268 Fig. 10-5, p. 269 Seismic disruption Disturbing force landslides GravityWind Restoring force Gravity Surface tension Type of wave TideTsunamiSeicheWind wave Capillary wave (ripple) 24 hr. Amount of energy in ocean surface 100,000 sec (1 1/4 days) 10,000 sec (3 hr) 1,000 sec (17 min) 100 sec10 sec1 sec1/10 sec1/100 sec Period (time, in seconds for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point) Frequency (waves per second) 12 hr. Fig. 10-6, p. 269 Fig. 10-7, p. 270 30.6 Wavelength (m) Speed (mph) Period (in seconds) Speed (m/sec) Wavelength (ft) ,312 1,640 1, Fig. 10-8, p. 271 Wind b a Sea surface Maximum wavelength 1.73 cm (0.68 in.) Fig. 10-9, p. 271 Fig , p. 272 Stepped Art Fig , p. 273 Fully developed seas Changing to swell Ripples to chop to wind waves Direction of wave advance Wind Length of fetch Table 10-2, p. 273 Fig , p. 274 Fig , p. 274 Fig , p. 275 7 across 1 high 120 Fig , p. 275 12 a b Constructive interference (addition) Destructive interference (subtraction) Constructive interference (addition) Fig , p. 276 Fig , p. 277 Depth = 1/2 wavelength Surf zone Box 10-1, p. 278 Fig a, p. 279 Fig b, p. 279 Fig a, p. 279 Direction of progress Wave crests Waves begin to "feel bottom" here, water depth is L/2. Bottom contours Shoreline Fig b, p. 279 Fig a, p. 280 Fig b, p. 280 Waves A and B create a checkerboard of peaks and troughs A B Fig , p. 280 Fig , p. 280 (Every tenth wave crest shown) 0 10 Waves moving Islands Areas of wave crest reinforcement due to diffraction and interference Fig , p. 281 Fig a, p. 281 Node Crest Node Crest Trough No motion Maximum water flow No motion 1 23 Fig b, p. 281 Node Crest Trough Maximum water flow No motion Trough 45 Starts again at 2 Fig a, p. 282 Wind waves on surface Less dense water Pycnocline Internal wave crest Denser water Fig b, p. 282 Fig c, p. 282 Fig a, p. 283 CCW spin Direction of storm and storm surge Low atmospheric pressure Dome of water Low atmospheric pressure CCW spin Direction of storm and storm surge Stepped Art Fig a, p. 283 Fig b, p. 283 Fig a, p. 284 Fig b, p. 284 Fig a, p. 285 Fig b, p. 285 Buffalo Toledo 172 Lake Erie water level (meters above sea level) :00 0:00 12:00 0:00 12:00 0:00 12:00 12 November13 November14 November15 November b Date 0:00 Fig , p. 286 Fig a, p. 287 Fig b, p. 287 Fig c, p. 287 Fig d, p. 287 Fig e, p. 287 Fig , p. 288 Fig , p. 288 Fig a, p. 289 Fig b, p. 289 Fig c, p. 289 Fig , p. 290 Fig , p. 290 November 14, 1994 Mindoro Island Maximum wave: 7 m Fatalities: 49 July 12, 1993 Okushiri, Japan Maximum wave: 31 m Fatalities: 239 October 9, 1995 Jalisco, Mexico Maximum wave: 11 m Fatalities: 1 January 1, 1996 Sulawesi Island Maximum wave: 3.4 m Fatalities: 9 February 17, 1996 Irian Jaya Maximum wave: 7.7 m Fatalities: 161 September 2, 1992 Nicaragua Maximum wave: 10 m Fatalities: 170 December 12, 1992 Flores Island Maximum wave: 26 m Fatalities: >1,000 July 17, 1998 Papua New Guinea Maximum wave: 15 m Fatalities: >2,200 June 2, 1994 East Java Maximum wave: 14 m Fatalities: 238 December 26, 2004 Indonesia and vicinity Maximum wave: 35 m Fatalities: >176,000 February 21, 1996 North coast of Peru Maximum wave: 5 m Fatalities: 12 Fig , p. 291 Fig a, p. 292 Fig b, p. 292 Fig c, p. 292 Fig , p. 293 GOES Satellite Transducers Signal flag Acoustic telemetry Glass ball flotation ~6000 m Transducer Bottom pressure recorder Sensor anchor Anchor Table 10-3, p. 293