Fashion, Materiality and Performance

7/25/2019 Fashion, Materiality and Performance

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FASHION & PERFORMANCE:MATERIALITY, MEANING,MEDIA

PROJECT ROOM 1, 2 & 3 05.03.2015 - 02.04.2015

RMIT DESIGN HUB


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PERFORMING THE BUILDING

Fashion & Performance: Materiality, Meaning, Media and1914 Now: Four Perspectives on Fashion Curation atRMIT Design Hubare the outcome of a research exchangebetween Design Hub, London College of Fashion, andRMIT Universitys School of Fashion and Textiles. Thepresentation of both exhibitions is timely: in 2015 DesignHub takes on an overarching thematic of Performing theBuilding. The intent is to present exhibitions, workshops,and programs throughout the Design Hub project spacesthat perform design research seeing it in action, anddrawing out productive intersections between performanceand design.

As a building dedicated to design research, interdisciplinarypractice and collaborative thinking, Design Hub intends tooperate less like a traditional gallery than with the intensity

of a studio environment, presenting work in progress andenabling research exchange.

Most critically, in positioning Fashion & Performancealongside 1914 Nowwithin the overarching Performingthe Building program, we find a useful leaping off point forunderstanding how we, as the Design Hub Curators, wantto tackle the concept of undoing so as to understand thepractice of doing, of making design.

Fashion & Performanceis a new project built upon thefoundations of a previous exhibition presented as partof the Arnhem Mode Biennale in 2013 and curated byJessica Bugg with Anna-Nicole Ziesche. At Design Hub, theexhibition has been re-contextualised with the additionof new and in-progress works by researchers from RMITUniversitys School of Fashion & Textiles. The result is athought-provoking view into practices that sit between

the disciplines of experimental fashion, clothing andperformance. The exhibition includes time-based media,garments, installations and, importantly, a program of live,interactive performances that give us as Curators, andour visitors, multiple ways of coming to understand theresearch presented here.

1914 Nowresponds to architect Rem Koolhaass themeof Absorbing Modernity: 1914 2014 for the mostrecent Venice Architecture Biennale. Koolhass chargedeach national exhibitor with exposing how the forces ofmodernism for better or for worse had transformedor impacted upon their respective countries. 1914 Nowcurated by Alison Maloney from London College of Fashion takes inspiration from the Koolhaas brief to create anopportunity to commission four fashion curators withdistinctive approaches towards their practice to respondto the year 1914. Rather than working in familiar museum

contexts, the chosen curators have explored the potentialof film as a medium through which to understand fashionschanging values and interpretations.

These compelling exhibitions are highly tuned to DesignHubs aims to instigate new connections between designpractitioners, researchers and an active public audience.We ask that everyone question, interact with and, mostimportantly, share their experiences of this years thematicand join us in considering performance as a process oftransformation.

Kate Rhodes, Fleur WatsonCurators, RMIT Design Hub


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FASHION AND PERFORMANCE MATERIALITY, MEANING, MEDIA

Fashion & Performance:Materiality, Meaning, MediaFashion & Performance - Materiality, Meaning, Mediawas

first seen at the Arnhem Mode Biennale in 2013 and hasbeen specifically redeveloped for RMIT Design Hub. It bringstogether 21 established and emerging practitioners fromEurope and the Asia Pacific region. Through contemporarymoving image based works, material artefacts, garmentsand performance, the exhibition highlights a communityof contemporary practitioners working between thedisciplines of experimental fashion, conceptual clothing andperformance. It investigates a compelling and growing areaof contemporary creative practice at the intersection offashion and performance and is driven by an analysis ofthe potential and tensions afforded in this relationship.

Artists and performance artists such as Yoko Ono, RebeccaHorn, Leigh Bowery and Matthew Barney from the late

1960s to the present day have employed the medium ofclothing and the performing body to make works. Fashionhas embraced the mechanics of the theatrical stage onthe catwalk in spectacular shows of designers such asJohn Galliano and Alexander McQueen. Others such asHussein Chalayan, Martin Margiela and Viktor + Rolf employperformative strategies as central to the developmentand communication of their work in both live performanceand film. While fashion is moving into the performancespace, so performance has begun to move into the fashionspace, illustrated through examples such as the immersiveperformance created by Punch Drunk for Louis VuittonsBond Street, London store opening (2010) and Rick OwensSS 2014 Vicious presentations. Despite these examplesthe worlds of fashion and performance have tended to

be analysed and understood in the context of their owndisciplines as separate and distinctly different in termsof their design process and intention. This exhibitionchallenges this position and illustrates that clothingdesigned as conceptual fashion and clothing designed ascostume for performance now share approaches, whichhave developed through an increased awareness of thebody and the agency of dress in communication. Theseapproaches function in the transdisciplinary place andspace of the wearing, viewing and experiencing fashion.

Fashion theorists such as Joanne Entwistle have illustratedhow the body, and the self are not perceived separatelybut simultaneously, as a totality as an embodied practice(2009: p10). This thinking provides a shared perspectivefrom which to understand a growing practice in thedesign and performance of dress produced from a varietyof perspectives but all within the site of the body. It isthis complex relationship of dress and the body that isuncovered in the work of these extraordinary artists andthrough the creation of this exhibition.

Coming from diverse backgrounds in fashion, textiles,architecture and the visual arts, some of the artists havetrained or worked in more than one discipline and all have apreoccupation with clothing and the visual and performingbody. The work of these practitioners exposes the potentialof embodied narratives informed by design and materiality.Working with approaches that embrace aesthetics and form,spatial concerns, narratives, process as performance oridentity and dress, these artists draw upon approaches

from both fashion and performance. In all of theseinstances the performance relies upon the clothing and the

wearers active engagement as integral to the developmentof the performance, and all are communicated through timebased media.

Performance is usually experienced in and through thelived moment and through the relationship of bodies and

scenography in a particular place and space. It can beunderstood as becoming something other than performancethrough documentation and mediated form. However, allthe performance works in this exhibition are developedand designed to be experienced through mediated meansand specifically film. Fashion & Performanceattemptsto re-animate aspects of meaning from the originalinteraction between the performer and the garmentthrough the relationships of film, the physical materialityof the wearables and the traces of live performance orperformer interaction. It seeks to engage audiences onan experiential level through their own understanding ofwearing clothes. As Aoife Monks notes Spectators do notsimply see costume representing clothes on stage; theyalso see it being used. Actors visibly wear their costume,

and costume is made of the same stuff of the dress wornby the audience (2010: p.39). By understanding the bodyas a creative site, and by placing clothing as central tocommunication, it is possible to connect designer, wearerand viewer in an experiential exchange.

The cross disciplinary artists in this exhibition demonstratethe potential of embodied engagement that draws on aninherent awareness of both fashion and performance withintheir methodologies and aesthetic. This exhibition is not afull overview of contemporary practice at the intersectionof fashion and performance but it does demonstrate theimportance and diversity of this area of practice at thispoint in time.

Fashion & Performance; Materiality, Meaning, Mediaisthe outcome of the curators individual and collaborativeresearch. The research and resulting exhibition drawsfrom the need to recognise and understand the pluralityof messages in worn and performed clothing or fashionwithin contemporary society and the undeniably tightlyinterlinked relationship to performance. The work of theartists shown here is selected and discussed outside ofcommercial imperatives usually associated with fashionand demonstrates to us a commitment to investigate andcommunicate ideas around dress, body, narrative andperformance in ways which go beyond the traditionalparameters of fashion or performance.

Jessica BuggAssociate Professor Jessica Bugg, RMIT University Fashion

and Textiles.

Reference:Aoife Monks, The Actor in Costume, London: Palgrave, 2010.Joanne Entwistle, The Fashioned Body, Cambridge: Polity,2000.

Jessica Bugg and Anna-Nicole Ziesche would like to thankthe Design Hub team as co-curators and the School ofFashion and Textiles at RMIT for their generous support inbringing this exhibition to Melbourne.


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List of Works(See floor plan for gallery position)

1. Anna BaumgartThree Sisters

201501:48 minutes

Rediscovering her familys home videos of herself andher two sisters when she was first born, Anna Baumgartbegan to think about the fact that how we see ourselvesis in fact constructed and tailored by such memories, yetthey are ones which only exist through the fragments ofphotography and film. Inspired by Dennis Oppenheims TwoStage Transfer Drawing (1971) and the performance of thetailor, the sisters mapped each of their bodies by drawingthrough one another. In this one moment, their bodiesare connected, movements synchronised. Just like sisterspassing down clothes, the drawings are passed on as arecord of their bodies merged into one on paper.

2. Anna Baumgartwith Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts LondonWomenswear and Jewellery Design studentsMark201402:25 minutes

Markis a project between first year Womenswear andJewellery design students at Central Saint Martins.The students became interested in the process of markmaking, the traces left behind, as well as the impact ofthe jewellerys weight on a garment and the effects ofbodily movement. This film captures the groups creationof a performance in which a white garment is marked byjewellery as it moves on the body, creating a combined

jewellery/fashion piece using the body as a drawing tool.3. Anna BaumgartShirt Container201401:59 minutes

Shirt Containerexamines themes of uniformity, control, theinterplay between interior/exterior, restriction/liberation,masculine/feminine.

4. Maria BlaisseMoving Meshes200909:00 minutes

5. Maria Blaisse

winddancer2008Flexible bamboo structure

Maria Blaisse works as a kind of material scientist,spending the last forty years investigating naturesstructural systems. Since 2008 she has applied thisresearch to bamboo; developing structures and studyingtheir natural movement. In this transformation of formthe body is a critical element. Her film Moving Meshesis an exploration of the boundaries of fashion, designand architecture and a performance where research onmovement, the body and form can merge.

6. Anna-Nicole ZiescheChildhood Storage200906:17 minutes

7. Anna-Nicole Ziesche

Childhood Storage Feet-Gloves2009Latex, Oil Paint

8. Anna-Nicole ZiescheChildhood Storage Jumpsuit2009Mohair and mixed yarn

Childhood Storageis shot entirely within a replica of Anna-Nicole Ziesches childhood bedroom. The idea originatesfrom the fact that many mothers preserve their childsbedroom from the day their child leaves home and thereforecreate a kind of physical shrine to childhood. It conveysideas of how we are physically and psychologically shaped,and often haunted by our childhood, and asks whetherevery decision and action is determined by an unbrokenchain of prior experience. Ziesche has created one-piecejumpsuits that take their decorative pattern from thejumpers she knitted meticulously as a child. Her body ismodified by using prosthetic feet gloves that fit over herhands and determine her movements.

9. Ulrik Martin LarsenThe Choreographed Garment, #2 - Void Suit201103:59 minutes

Ulrik Martin Larsens Void Suitfilms are an investigationinto movement in the immediate space surrounding thebody. The suits constitute a performative space that

accentuates, exaggerates and constrains a dancersmovements. The Void Suitacts like a director orchoreographer of movement and functions both as costume,prop and scenography. The simple construction of the suitimplies an architecture of the body both concealing andarticulating movement.

10. Charlotte GyllenhammarHang2006/201106:49 minutes

The corporal aspect of an experience is highlighted inGyllenhammars films and photographs that depict womensuspended upside down, packed in billowing frilly skirts,as in this work Hang (2006/2011). Gyllenhammars women

do not stand a chance. They struggle, but the garmentskeep them trapped and each attempt to break free entailsthe risk of falling. The fact that they are projected as ifsuspended from the ceiling enhances the experience ofpowerlessness and discipline.

11. Imme van der HaakBeyond the Body, A perception of appearance and identity201202:52 minutes

12. Imme van der HaakBeyond the Body, A perception of appearance and identity2012Digital print on silk

Imme van der Haaks work focuses on altering the humanform by affecting the figure with just one simple


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PROGRAM MAKING SPACE FOR HIGH RISK DRESSING

intervention. For example, photos of the human body areprinted onto translucent silk, which create the possibilityof physically layering different bodies, ages, generationsand identities on top of one another. In this film, themoving body manipulates the fabric so the body and the

silk become one, distorting our perception or revealing acompletely new physical form. Beyond the Body creates anambiguous image that intrigues, astonishes and sometimeseven disturbs.

13. Bart Hess and Lucy McRaeExtraordinary Gentlemen201102:46 minutes

A collaboration with stylist Alister Mackie and LucyandBart,Nick Knights fashion film captures a series of hand-crafted homages to the extreme volumes and textures thatcharacterize the best of twenty-first century menswearas featured in AnOther Man magazine. Presented bySHOWStudio.

14. B O U D I CC AIsolated moments from a cycle...2012Digital Chronophotography film02:38 minutes

This film is part of B O U D I CC As search for spacebeyond the visible: a space for ideas to be constructed,montaged, pressed, varnished, painted, filmed, recorded,edited and exhibited. A collision of analogue and digitalparts informs new ways to explore and experiment withimagery, identity and design. Beginning with a techniqueinvented by Etienne-Jules Marey in 1898, the designershave collided chronophotography with digital and codingpractice and, in turn, created a new way of recording

images.

15. Jessica BuggOptical Laces201402:47 minutes

16. Jessica BuggOptical Laces2014Cotton and shoelaces

The filmPerceiving Dress: Optical Lacesis generated fromresearch into the sensory and visual perception of dress inmovement. Seen as the performance site itself, the garment made from shoelaces is designed as a tool to extend

the experience, perception and physical response of thedancer. The dancers verbal and physical responses havebeen analysed and employed to generate performance andfilm production that engage audiences on a sensory level.

17. HEYNIEKFOAMBOY201101:26 minutes

18. HEYNIEKFOAMBOY MONSTERS(Commissioned for Comme desGarons, 1 of 2)2014Foam and steel armature

19. HEYNIEKFOAMBOY MONSTERS(Commissioned Comme des Garons, 2of 2)2014Foam and steel armature

Foamboybegan as a hands-on experiment. HEYNIEK tookthe leftovers of an earlier project and glued them onto amannequin. The way that the material moved on the bodywas very graphic and recalled the Triadic Ballet of OskarSchlemmer and the work of M. C. Escher, especially in theeffects of light and movement. The Foamboy Monsterwasborn, using an unorthodox way of creating shapes andsilhouettes, evolving into a better and more complex body.

20. Henrik Vibskov and Andreas EmeniusFringe Project 8200906:35 minutes

Designer Henrik Vibskov and artist Andreas Emenius beganwork on The Fringe Projectsin 2007. They have sinceproduced ten works in the form of installations, objects,performances, video and self-portraits that explore illusion,surface and movement.

21. Jessica BuggBlack Point201303:32 minutes

22. Jessica BuggBlack Point dress2013Uncoated neoprene

Black Point explores emotion and memory in relation todress. The work draws on a recurring theme that emerged

from a series of interviews undertaken by Jessica Bugg onhow people find an identity through their clothing. Manyof the interviewees spoke of the need to express personalidentity within generic garments such as a school uniform,a nuns habit, work uniforms and the journey taken to makeclothes their own. Black Point dressreflects the potentialfor physical exploration and a multitude of possibilitiesin an abstract and repetitive form. The garment reflectsmany of the issues raised during the interviews such aspersonal interpretation of dress, transformation, tension,the struggle with identity, rebellion, awkwardness anddifference.

23. B O U D I CC ABallet Marks

2012Wood/glass frame, handmade paper, ink

24. B O U D I CC ABallet Sketch20114:35 minutes

25. B O U D I CC ABallet Shoe Machine2012Wood, plastic, mechanical parts, DC motor, satin and leatherviscose ribbons, pens and pencils

For the process of creating Ballet Sketch, each image,dance or performance was completed without rehearsal

and, in turn, the code of dance emerged, a beautifulmathematics, that aligned to the maths and the code



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within the processing of Ballet Sketch; a poetry thatinformed the purpose of the work.

26. Ulrik Martin LarsenThe Choreographed Garment, #4 - Intermediate Dress2011

Organza and felt

27. Ulrik Martin LarsenThe Choreographed Garment, #4 - Intermediate Dress201105:57 minutes

Intermediate Dressexemplifies the notion of wearingor dressing in a series of predetermined movementschoreographed as a consequence of dress. The dressis designed with a specific sequence of movements inmind; movements that must be undertaken in order towear the dress. This creates a codependent relationshipbetween garment, movement and performance. The inherentmovement pattern of the dress and the general design

facilitates a performance that also includes reference toscenography, the dress is connected to the space or heldby another performer which engages the space in the actof dressing.

28. Anna-Nicole ZiescheBefore A Fashion201406:05 minutes

Before A Fashionis a short film exploring the uniquelyperformed relations between bodies, materials and a stateof creation only to be found among young people studyingfashion design. It describes how ideas around manner andstyle, key terms defining fashion and embracing specificqualities such as the way that we stand, sit or move,

are tightly intertwined with the entire design and makingprocess. The film originates from extensive observationsof fashion design students, staff and learning methods atCentral Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, in theform of endless photographs and drawings.

29. PyuupiruSnow White200813:46 minutes

30. PyuupiruBlack Ruff (hanging), Scissors, Short Hair Wig with box,Cap (tricolor), Black Rubber Gloves, Masks (3 pieces)2008Nylon, Plastic, Rubber, Cotton, Scissors

The well-known Brothers Grimm fairytale, Snow White,provides inspiration for Pyuupirus intent to move betweenuniversal themes and personal perspectives. Drawing onthis well-known story, this work suggests that sufferingincurred by the Queen and Snow White are, in fact,analogous to a universal suffering. The work shows animage of Pyuupiru reflected in the mirror, along with thequeen and Snow White. She asks: Doesnt this reverberatewith our own image? Is our own suffering also reflected inthe mirror?

31. Luke White & Remi WeekesMine2014

02:45 minutes

A troupe of contemporary dancers from Londons SadlersWells Theater engage in an elegant game of chase in Mine,a film by director duo Tell No One, AKA Luke White andRemi Weekes. The filmmakers have created an interactive,motion-touch short where half a dozen underwear-clad

performers are styled in shoppable pieces from labelsincluding Louis Vuitton, Kenzo, La Perla, Maison MartinMargiela and Bottega Veneta. Influenced by the naturalisticapproach of choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker,Tell No One enlisted Italian choreographer Paolo Mangiola totranslate the frenzied desire of online gratification into animpassioned routine.

32. Marie and Kristian SchullerLa Taille201202:49 minutes

Inspired by 1930s Surrealism - specifically Jean CocteausLe Sang dun Pote- photographer Kristian Schuller andfilmmaker Marie Schuller present La Taille, a fashion film

showcasing the role of the waist in fashion history.33. HEYNIEKPatch Up Pull Over200902:45 minutes

Patch Up Pull Overis about shielding and decoration(rapidly combined); flexible, water repellent, reflectivematerials; fragmented coatings, texture and relief andmaterial experiments suggestive for use on the body. Thiswork looks into the concept of how we, as a society, coverover and patch up our most valuable assets, our purestform our bodies reshaping and rebranding them tocreate something we are not.

34. Jacob KokEvolution201301:24 minutes

Jacob Koks Evolution collection is presented on thecatwalk physically and also digitally to create a compelling,three-dimensional experience of fashion. The work issupported through a new collaboration between thedesigner and software developer Autodesk.

35. Hussein ChalayanVentriloquy200105:31 minutes

The Hussein Chalayan SS2001 Show began with a computeranimated film by Me Company, in which a 3D female figure(delineated in wire frame-like lines) ruthlessly shattersanother figure into thousands of pieces, to reflect howvalue systems collapse at times of war. Alter egos werecreated as caricatures and are turned into Japanesemanga cartoon like animations a virtual environment voidof social and moral structure. After this virtual interactionthe real models appeared on a white set with a geometricalgrid that echoed the animated film.

36. Adele Varcoewith Alice Cummins, Jonathan Sinatra, Bicky Lee, MichelleFerris, Philipa Rothfield, Naree Vachananda, GregoryLorenzutti, Maud Leger and Suze Smith.ADJUST

2015



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This performance explores the relationship between thebody and garment and how the most simple adjustment cantransform the way the wearer moves and feels. Workingwith a group of dancers this performance works directlywith the audience to study the very particular way wedress ourselves and what happens when our clothing is

adjusted by another. Sometimes we experience this when afriend tucks our tag in or removes a hair. This performancestudys the shift in behaviour that can occur during andafter this encounter. Is there a change in stance? Does theparticipant walk or feel different? Is there a desire to checkthemselves in the mirror?

37. Margret Wibmertime out2015Participatory performance

Margret Wibmers performance time outas the title of thework suggests, invites us to interrupt our daily routineand pause for a moment, but it also invites us to form ourown reasons for taking time or making it. time outis aninvitation to break form in public and before an audience.The intervention is uncomplicated: visitors are invited towear a robe-like garment covering their clothes, and choosea place to lie down in the exhibition space for as long asthey wish. The garment, designed and individually hand-crafted by Wibmer, signifies a transition into another modeand works as a protective medium between the wearer, thespace and any onlookers.

38. D&K (Ricarda Bigolin and Nella Themelios)effortless beauty takes a lot of effort201360:00 minutes

In this 2-channel video D&K aim to reveal the highly

constructed artifice of the catwalk/catwalk model bycapturing a moment backstage when the model is in a stateof incompleteness hair and make-up in progress butnot quite finished. During the process of applying makeup, a models hair is swept back using tissues and pins.The tissues protect the hair from crimping. This moment inthe catwalk back of house is both heavily represented infashion imagery maybe iconic? yet also says somethingabout the vulnerability of the model, whose body is subject(and subjected to) to the drama of high fashion.

39. Lucy + Jorge OrtaSpirits of Rome Fabulae Romanae201229:00 minutes

The film, Spirits of Rome Fabulae Romanaeportrays asymbolic excursion across the city of Rome through theeyes of ten ethereal spirits who draw from archaeologicaland historical research, and observations on the culturaland social map of the city. As the scenario unfolds, thesecontemporary sentinels silently take over the city of Rome.We encounter the Traveller laden down by an accumulationof baggage under the Castel SantAngelo bridge andagain, in the Trastevere back streets, the former Jewishquarter; the Observer overlooks the panorama of theSacro Cuore dei Monti and the river banks of the IsolaTiberina; the Tunneler and the Myth Maker are to be foundin the grounds of an ancient Roman villa in the GregorianaPark; the overlapping fables of the other characters, theFlying Man, Chariot Rider, Memory Man, and Bale Maker are

narrated in English and Italian, through the verses of a

poem written by Mario Petrucci, commissioned by the artistsspecifically for the film.

40. Margret Wibmer and Akane Nakamoriabsence of the teamaster2013

04:49 minutesabsence of the teamaster was produced as a liveperformance and video at Ishikawa Nishida KitaroMuseum of Philosophy in Japan (2013). The work is aco-production between visual artist Margret Wibmer andKanazawa based artist and art curator Akane Nakamori.Negotiating differences in Eastern and Western conceptsof space, social relations, body and nature, art and itsrepresentation, drove the artistic process. The concept,developed by Wibmer and Nakamori, is based on areinterpretation of the traditional Japanese tea ceremony,inviting new thoughts about the value of ancient ritualsand relations between political power and the body throughdress and performance.

41. Nirma MadhooFuture Body201503:47 minutes

Future Bodyis a collaborative digital and multi-disciplinaryproject. Costume and 3D printed accessories wereproduced by dedicated teams and were as important asthe designing of the environment. Virtual geographiesand architectures were modeled and animated in order totap into our collective fascination with the technologicalsublime.Future Body aims to be immersive using soundand imagery to engage us at the level required in currenthypermediated contexts.



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Images: (top-bottom) Detail, Maria Blaisse, winddancer, 2008;Detail, Anna-Nicole Ziesche, Childhood Storage Feet-Gloves, 2009.Photography: Tobias Titz


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All images: Fashion & Performance: Materiality, Meaning, Media.Photography: Tobias Titz, tobiastitz.de


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Artist Biographies and CreditsAnna Baumgart

Anna Baumgart is currently completing a BA (FashionDesign, Womenswear) at Central Saint Martins College of

Art and Design, London. Performance and film are integralaspects of a design process that use the designers ownbody to draw, explore concepts, and generate silhouettes,patterns and textures so as to develop an alternativeapproach to fashion design.

Three Sisters, 2015

Sisters: Holly Baumgart, Ingrid Baumgart, Anna Baumgart

Camera: Grace Ludlam, Editing: Anna Baumgart

Mark,2014

Film editor: Hussa Bandar

Film made in collaboration with Phoebe Salmon.

Garments by May Sutton, Zoe Armeniades, Assia Dramey, Anna

Baumgart, Jewellery by: Lucie Davis, Elizabeth Martin, Hussa

Bandar, Xioasha Li, Model: Anna Baumgart, Camera: Hussa Bandar,Anna Baumgart, Editing: Hussa Bandar

Shirt Container,2014

Models: Ruby Kirby, Holly Baumgart, Ingrid Baumgart

Make-up: Gabriella Havens, Hair: Holly Baumgart, Camera: Phoebe

Salmon, Anna Baumgart, Editing: Anna Baumgart

Maria Blaisse www.mariablaisse.com

Maria Blaisse works at the forefront of research andeducation in textiles and flexible design. Her interests liein the intersection between art and fashion, incorporatingvideo, performance and photography. She has collaboratedwith Issey Miyake Tokyo, ISO Dance NY, Camper, Goods.nl and Paula Abdul. She has participated in major designexhibitions in Kyoto, Paris, Perth, London and Amsterdam.A retrospective of her work, The Emergence of Form, shownin 2014 in the Rijksmuseum Twenthe in Enschede, theNetherlands, will travel internationally in 2016.

Moving Meshes,2010

Director: Jellie Dekker

Design: Maria Blaisse

Bamboo Beach Ball (Terschelling, Holland) 2010

Dancer: Kenzo Kusuda, Marcella Giesche

The film and bamboo structure have been exhibited in Connecting

Conceptsat the Design Huis in Eindhoven, the Netherlands and

in Curious Minds at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem. Connecting

Concepts will next move to Istanbul, Turkey, and then to Berlin,

Germany.

winddancerkindly loaned for this exhibition by Katherine Ashe and

Marco Vittino.

Jessica Bugg www.jessicabuggdesign.com

Jessica Bugg is a transdisciplinary artist with abackground in fashion and textiles. She holds a practiceled PhD from the University of the Arts, London. Asan academic she has published and exhibited widelyand has managed programs in fashion design, designfor performance and fashion promotion in the UK andis currently Associate Professor and Deputy Headof Research, School of Fashion and Textiles at RMITUniversity, Melbourne, Australia. Her research and practiceis concerned with developing methods for embodied clothing

design and communication at the intersection of fashion,art, contemporary dance and performance.

Optical Laces, 2014

Jessica Bugg: Design and Art Direction

Tim Keeling: Film Direction

Dancer: Fukiko Takase, Drum: Rob Shipster, Colourist: TomaszKowalski, Flute: Hyelim Kim, (Taegum), Sound Design: Antonio Porem

Pires

Black Point dress, 2013

Dancer: Fukiko Takasen

Director/Film: Tim Keeling

Design and Creative Direction: Jessica Bugg

Hair: Luca Saccuman, Make-up: Bea Sweet,

Musician: Stephan Packe

Second Camera: Sam Pilling

B O U D I CC A www.platform13.com

B O U D I CC A is an avant-garde studio, founded in 1997by Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby, whose innovative

work eloquently yet disobediently explores the creativeterritories between and beyond the worlds of art anddesign. Initially showing through galleries and exhibitionspaces, B O U D I CC A went on to present collections inLondon and New York, becoming the first independentBritish fashion house to be invited as a guest member ofthe prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in2007.

Isolated Moments,2012

Designer/Artist/Director/Camera/Editor: B O U D I CC A

Performer/Model: Wei, Sound: Caretaker

Courtesy of: B O U D I CC A

Ballet Sketch2011

Designer/Artist/Director/Camera/Editor: B O U D I CC A

Performer/Model: Sian Murphy and Thomas Whitehead courtesy ofThe Royal Opera House, Sound: Daniel Pemberton, Courtesy of:

B O U D I CC A

Hussein Chalayan www.chalayan.com

Hussein Chalayan was born in Nicosia, Cyprus andgraduated in 1993 from Central Saint Martins College ofArt. Chalayan started his own label in 1994 and was namedBritish Designer of the Year in 1999 and 2000. In 2006 hewas awarded an MBE for service to the fashion industry.

The Chalayan collections are known for innovative design,beautiful tailoring and draping and an elegant minimalistaesthetic. The collections are regularly featured in topfashion international magazines as well as carried in the

worlds best boutiques.Courtesy of Hussein Chalayan and Me Company collaboration.

Charlotte Gyllenhammar www.charlottegyllenhammar.com

Charlotte Gyllenhammar is a fine artist based inStockholm, Sweden. She studied at the Royal College ofArt in London and is now one of Swedens most renownedcontemporary artists. Making sculpture and installationmany of her works represent states of mind of highlyemotionally charged situations that often provoke in theviewer a reaction of fascination, exhilaration or anxiety.Gyllenhammar is represented at the National Museum ofWomen in the Arts in DC.


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Reference: The Contours of Vulnerability, Annika Wik

Courtesy Charlotte Gyllenhammar production

Imme van der Haakwww.immevanderhaak.nl

Imme van der Haak graduated from Product Design from

Londons Royal College of Art in 2012. Her work is playful,yet subtle in its approach. She constantly strives toquestion and challenge our perception of what is normal,focusing on the everyday, which we might take for granted.

Special thanks to: Alexandra Green / Hanna Donker

Bart Hess and Lucy McRaewww.barthess.nl

www.lucymcrae.net

lucyandbart.blogspot.com.au

The artistic duo LucyandBart (a collaboration betweenLucy McRae and Bart Hess) are known for whimsicalmanipulations of the human body, and they love to useoutlandish materials like foam and beds of grass. Thoughtheir elaborate pieces of art seem meticulously calculated,youll be surprised to find that the duo works entirely frominstinct and exploration, with no preconceived concept ofthe end product.

Director/Producer/Photographer: Nick Knight

Artists: Lucy McRae and Bart Hess (LucyandBart)

Stylist: Alister Mackie

Niek Pulles/HEYNIEK www.heyniek.com

Niek Pulles/ HEYNIEK is Fast. Enthusiastic. Colorful.Always hunting for something new. Likes to call himselfan Experimental & Visual Inspirator. He is a person whowants to help people visualize their ideas by means offilm, photography and material experiments. Director andfashion wild child, Niek Pulles goes by the name HEYNIEK.

Patch Up Pull Over, 2009

Designer/Arist/Director/Cameraman/Editor: Niek Pulles/HEYNIEK

Director: Niek Pulles FASHIONCLASH MAASTRICHT 2011

Courtesy of Niek Pulles/HEYNIEK

Performer/Model: Harm & Diana

Sound: Kraftwerk & The Antlers

D&K (Ricarda Bigolin and Nella Themelios)www.dolciandkabana.com

Dolci & Kabana (a banal word play of) a famous Italianfashion brand, big business, and deli catering is an ongoingproject by designer Ricarda Bigolin and curator NellaThemelios. Dolci & Kabana (D&K), operates amorphously

between the fields of art, design, and fashion, subsumingthe enterprise within the aspirations of a fashion business.D&K are investigating, imitating and critiquing theaspirations and strategies of fashion branding: Italiano/Greco coolness, that famous brand, the personal andprofessional, love, life, fashion and art: best buddies.

effortless beauty takes a lot of effort,2013

Concept and art direction: D&K (Ricarda Bigolin & Nella Themelios)

Video and editing: Marc Morel, Model: Phebe Schmidt

Featuring works from the following Aftrs/D&K garment editions:

backstage strategies #1, haute merchandise: pass me the tissues

and self con.body con.

Performance originally produced as part of the project Arcades,

curated by Matthew Linde and Centre for Style at Bus Projects, 20

December 2013.

Jacob Kok www.cargocollective.com/jacobkok

Jacob Kok studied at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Amsterdamwhere he graduated in Theatre Design. His work exploresnarrative through humor and virtual modes. His studioinvestigates the relationship between fashion and

technology, questioning digital techniques and physicalboundaries to bring virtual models into being. His virtual,colourful and dynamic presentation is a core characteristicof his work.

Ulrik Martin Larsen www.ulrikmartinlarsen.com

Since receiving his MA degree in Fashion Design from theRoyal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design in2008, Ulrik Martin Larsen has worked in a number of fieldsconnected to fashion, art and performance. Operating atthe cross section where performing arts and fashion meetwith an emphasis on the body, movement and performancehe has participated in several international exhibitions.

The Choreographed Garment, #4 - Intermediate Dress, 2011

Videography: Dimitris Vulalas, Dancer: Kizzy Matiakis, GraphicDesign: Stefan Friedli

Choreographed Garment Part 2 Void Suit

Videography: Dimitris Vulalas

Dancer: Tim Matiakis

Nirma Madhoo www.anatomythestudio.com

Nirma Madhoo originally trained as a fashion designerand is a design educator at the Durban University ofTechnology, South Africa. Her initial postgraduate researchinvestigated the representation of identities in fashionphotography. Nirma subsequently joined the MA FashionPhotography course at the London College of Fashion.Nirmas interests are interdisciplinary and this informsher explorative practice as a fashion filmmaker. Current

areas of investigation include discourses of the futureand technology in digital fashion and, the fashion film as anew medium. Her film Future Body premiered at the LondonShort Film Festival in January 2015.

Direction: Nirma Madhoo

Model: Alice Hurel at First Model Management London

CGI and Animation: Jenne van der Meer

CGI: Devon Fay + Joy Holle

Costume Design and 3D printed accessories: Adriana RestrepoCostume Design (Latex): Leanne BroadwayFashion: Dioralop

Shoes: Iris van Herpen for United Nude

Styling: Hangna Koh

MUA: Kat Krupa-Ringuet / Josie Chan

DP: Nick Morris / Nicholas StylianouCamera Operators: Nick Morris / Nicholas Stylianou /

Hung-Chun Wang

Gaffer / Grip: Hung-Chun Wang

Production Assistant: Yang Ruijia

Post-Production: Nirma Madhoo and Alastair McCollSoundtrack: Abyss by Duncan Pittock / Infected by Dan Skinner +

Adam Skinner /Twisted Anarchy by Mark Dennis

Audio Technician: Andrew Sutherland

Production: Nirma Madhoo for anatomy


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Lucy + Jorge Orta www.studio-orta.com

Lucy + Jorge Ortas collaborative practice draws uponecological and social sustainability issues and employsa diversity of mediums ranging from drawing, sculpture,installation, couture, painting, silkscreen, photography

video and light, as well as staging filmed interventionsand performances. Their work can be found in public andprivate collections and has been the subject of numerousmonographs.

Spirits of Rome - Fabulae Romanae

The Spirit sculptures were created by Lucy + Jorge Orta with the

collaboration of Studio Orta and alumni from London College of

Fashion: Chlo Gayet, Mio Jin, Lara Torres, Oliver Ruuger and Sum

Yu Li. The video was filmed and edited by David Bickerstaff, the still

photography was conducted by Paul Bevan. Fabulae Romanae was

commissioned by Ermenegildo Zegna (ZegnaArt) for an exhibition at

the MAXXI National Museum of XXI Century Arts Rome, Italy, in 2012.

The original music was arranged for the video by Gundula Gruen;

Caj Shukarije (Macedonia); Zsal O Savo (Hungaria); Arestelle

(Romania); Kikko (Russian); Ze Dode (Transylvania)

Project coordinator: Camilla Palestra,

Centre for Sustainable Fashion

Dancer: Simona Jovic, Musicians: London Gypsy Orchestra: Gundula

Gruen (violin/vocals), Martin Powell (accordion/vocals) and Tom

Wagner (percussion)

Camera: Ilian Metev, Edit: Nse Asuquo

Sound edit: Pinna Studios London

Digital print: Robert Burton, London College of Fashion

Research: Cristina Valls and Joanne Bertaux,

London College of Fashion

With the support of the Culture Programme of the European Union.

Pyuupiru www.pyuupiru.com

Pyuupiru became acutely aware of the discomfort betweenhis body and spirit when he was twelve years old. Thinkingof himself not being accepted by his environment, Pyuupiruwas, before long, devoting himself to using crochet and asewing machine to make costumes, in an effort to enshroudhis body. At first, it was just attire for night clubs. Sooninstead having a face with no makeup, he was creatingunusual characters that expressed another self. By 2003Pyuupiru, using his own hands, had knitted nine monster-like costumes PLANETARIA. Pyuupiru was legally living asmale, which changed into female during his production ofSelf-portrait series. Pyuupirus style has broken loosefrom the obsession with criticism which contemporary artis engulfed in, and instead completes his personal inner-world.

Henrik Vibskov & Andreas Emeniuswww.vibskovemenius.com

Vibskov & Emenius is the collaborative art project ofDanish designer Henrik Vibskov and Swedish artist AndreasEmenius, both graduates from Central Saint Martins,University of The Arts, London, in 2000.

Designer/Artist/Director/Editor/Sound: Vibskov & Emenius

Cameraman: Thomas Jessen, Model: Emma Hansson

Margret Wibmerwww.margretwibmer.eu

www.mbassyunlimited.org

Margret Wibmer is a visual artist born in Austria. Shestudied at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna, livedin New York City for many years and is currently basedin Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Margret Wibmer workssystematically on the border between art and fashion,

employing different media such as performance, newmedia, photography, video and sculpture. From an interestin dance, music and fashion she started to developinteractive performances from 1998 onward. Her work hasbeen performed and exhibited in group and solo exhibitionsat galleries and museums worldwide.

absence of the teamaster,2013

Concept: Akane Nakamori and Margret Wibmer

Dance: Kiyomi Yamashita, Sound: Norihito Minowa

Sound engineering: Norihiro Mori

Costumes and photography: Margret Wibmer

Video and editing: Shoko Takimoto and Kenichi Tan

Tea coordinator: Yoriko Nakagawa

Sweets: Yoshihashi, Glass bowl: Masaki Kusada

Participating visitors: Hiroaki Oshiai, Megume Takabatake, JoshiakiSakamoto, Fuyuko Kobori, Kjell Hahn, Yoko Ueda, Daisuke Inoue, Ai

Ikejiri, Eri Yamamoto, Syota Yamamoto, Dai Hijikata, Satomi Den.

Sponsors and Funding: Austrian Federal Ministry for Education, the

Arts and Culture (AT), Land Tirol (AT), Mondriaan Foundation (NL),

Komatsu Seiren Co., Ltd (JP), Kanazawa Bunka College of Fashion

(JP).

Marie and Kristian Schuller www.marieschuller.com

Marie Schuller is a London based filmmaker specialisingin fashion content. Marie has been working for NickKnights award winning fashion film platform SHOWstudioin London since 2010 where she holds the position of Headof Fashion Film. She collaborates closely with Nick and

works with him on all his fashion film output, which includescampaign films for design houses such as Hermes, Marni,Alexander McQueen, Diesel and Armani. Maries directingwork has been screened internationally, and shes beenawarded multiple awards. Marie studied filmmaking at theNational Film and Television School and completed her MA inPhotography at the University of the Arts London. She isrepresented globally by CLM (www.clmuk.com).

Kristian Schuller is a Paris-based photographer. Born inRomania, Kristian immigrated with his family to Germanyat an early age. He studied fashion design with VivienneWestwood and photography with FC Gundlach at theUniversity of Fine Arts Berlin. After his initial introductionby Isabella Blow to Cond Nast Publications in London,Kristian has continued working internationally with variousfashion magazines and commercial clients.

La Taille, 2012

Film: Marie and Kristian Schuller

Fashion Editor: Peggy Schuller, Hair: Cyril Laloue

Make-up: Gabrielle Theurer, Model: Laura at Women Paris

Fashion: Embroidered dress by Manish Arora, suede gloves and

shoes by Yves Saint Laurent, stockings by Agent Provocateur

Ruched dress by Burberry Prorsum, shoes by Sonia Rykiel,

stockings by Wolford, vintage lace gloves

Cage dress by Amaya Arzuaga, vinyl and feather hat by Ingrid

VlasovRuffled skirt and boots by Viktor & Rolf, metal nipple-covers by

Bijules

Silk corset by Mr. Pearl for Antonio Berardi, S/S 1997


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Silk corset by Mr. Pearl for Antonio Berardi, S/S 1997

Leather skirt by Louis Vuitton, wool hat by Yves Saint Laurent,

crystal shoes by Christian Louboutin, sunglasses by Mykita

Wool and chain dress by Gareth Pugh

Mouth hat by Philip Treacy, silver belt by Miu Miu, boots by Larare

Made for SHOWstudio

Adele Varcoe www.adelevarcoe.com

Adele Varcoe is a fashion designer, artist and directorwho creates fashion experiences that explore the socialaffects of fashion, dress and clothes. Working with actors,models and the public, Adele investigates how fashionaffects the interactions and relations between people.She is interested in the behavior fashion provokes andthe role social interaction plays in shaping our perceptionof dress. Currently, Adele is undertaking a PhD in theSchool of Fashion and Textiles at RMIT University. She alsoteaches and runs workshops with various Universities andorganizations around the world.

Luke White & Remi Weekes www.tellnoone.co.ukTell No Oneare Luke White and Remi Weekes.As individuals they are writers and directors.As Tell No One they experiment with video cameras.Intended to be a peek into their experimental process,posting their on-going ideas, inspirations and processes.Think of this as like an informal brainstorm.They also shoot promos, commercials and fashion filmtogether.

Their work collectively has been exhibited and screenedin institutions big and small, around the world. From theGuggenheim Museum, New York to the British Film Institute,London.

Director: Tell No OneProducer: Rupert Savage

Creative Content Director: Anne BourgeoisVignon

Executive Producer: John Hassay

Cast: Amber Doyle, Travis Knight, Airen Koopmans, Sonaya Mizuno,

Louis McMiller, Stylist: Agata Belcen

Choreographer: Paolo Mangiola, First Assistant Director : Mark

Mcpadden, Director of Photography: Ben Fordesman

Photographer: Michael Hemy, Photography Assistant: Marlen Keller,

Focus Puller: Martyna Knitter

Camera Assistant: Jack Richmond

Steadicam: Rob Hart, Runner: James Gear, Gaffer: Dom Aronin,

Spark: Michael Robinson

Editor: Ross Hallard at Trim, Grade: Matt Osborne at The Mill,

Production Company: Good Egg HQ, Prodouction Design: ART-DEPT.

TV, Music: Matt Abeysekera

Makeup: Nami Yoshida, Hair Stylist: Johnnie Biles

Stylist Assistant Mihairi Graham and Katharine Garr

Tailor: Ian Hundley

Thanks to: Bottega Veneta, Haider Ackermann, Kenzo, La Perla,

Louis Vuitton, Maison Martin Margiela, Rick Owens

Anna-Nicole Ziesche www.anna-nicoleziesche.com

Anna-Nicole Ziesche has a BA and MA Fashion from CentralSaint Martins, University of the Arts London. Her shifttowards film and performance began in the last yearof her MA Fashion when she made a film to be shown atthe Truman Brewery, UK (2000). Early films were formalinvestigations of dress, and composition using films

freedom to manipulate, magnify, and repeat both decorativedetails but also the body that they enfolded. Anna-NicoleZiesche works as a visual artist, Associate Lecturer onthe BA (hons) Fashion Design Womenswear at Central SaintMartins (since 2003) and a Research Fellow in Design for

Performance at London College of Fashion, University ofthe Arts London (since 2009).

Before A Fashion, 2012

Fashion Designer: Lois Blamire

Director of Photography: Markus Ljungberg

First Assistant Camera: Jaroslav Kostelnk

Gaffer: Tom Nowell, Rory Harborne Spark

Editor & Colorist: Markus Ljungberg

Rigger: Graeme Clint, Stunt Double: Sally Miller, Stills Photographer:

James A. Grant, Production Assistant: Anna Baumgart, Original

Music: Miho Hongo, Drawer: Howard Tangye, Model Lauren McKelvie,

Isabella Busoni, Paula Canovas del Vas, Harriet Middleton-Baker,

Sarah Balmont, Jessica Maybury, Kitty Riddell, Becky Grant,

Charlotte Mills

Childhood Storage, 2009Courtesy: Anna-Nicole Ziesche, H + F Collection Han Nefkens

Artist, Director, Performer, Editor: Anna-Nicole Ziesche

Produced, Camera, Lighting: Diensen Pamben

Studio, Camera, Motion Control Lighting and Compositing: Matthew

James Day

Voice-over: Annie Mackin ,Voice-over recording: Jason Thomas,

Assistant 1: Amelia Sheibani, Assistant 2: Max Halstead

AcknowledgementsFashion & Performance: Materiality, Meaning, Media05.03.2015 - 02.04.2015

Curated by Associate Professor Jessica Bugg, RMITUniversity School of Fashion and Textiles and Anna-NicoleZiesche, Research Fellow: Design for Performance, LondonCollege of Fashion, University of the Arts, London.

Exhibition co-curated for RMIT Design Hub by Kate Rhodes,Fleur Watson. Curators, RMIT Design Hub

Exhibition and graphic design by U P.Creative Production: Nella Themelios.Exhibition Technician: Erik North.Exhibition Assistants: Kate Riggs, Audrey Thomas-Hayes.Technical Assistants: Tim McLeod, Marcin Wojcik, RobertJordan, Andrew Long, Gavin Bell.Photography: Tobias Titz, tobiastitz.de

Presented as part of the Virgin Australia MelbourneFashion Festival Cultural Programs Project Series 2015.


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Fashion, Materiality and Performance

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