fashion map pdf NEW katie

62
Fig 1. FASHION MAP S/S 16 KATIE HARRELL // N0576519

Transcript of fashion map pdf NEW katie

Fig 1.

FASHION MAP S/S 16

KATIE HARRELL // N0576519

2

4 6 7INTRODUCTION METHODOLOGY TREND FORECASTING

8 10 12THE PROCESS TREND CYCLE ROLE OF THE MEDIA

15 16 18ENVIRONEMENTAL INFLUECNES CULTURAL INFLUENCES SOCIAL INFLUENCES

20 22 242016 s/s TRENDS SHOULDER FOCUS WHERE IT BEGAN

25 26 28 AS SEEN ON THE CATWALK AS SEEN ON THE HIGHSTREET TREND DRIVERS

32 33 34FASHION LIFE CYCLE SHOP SAFARI STYLE HUNTER

42 43 44

EDITORIAL RATIONAL LOCATION EDITORIAL RATIONAL

46 51 EDITORIAL CONCLUSION

Fig 2

4

A trend refers to a general direction or movement, (Stone 2008); this could be in terms of a lifestyle shift, cultural change, and in this report, fashion. Trends are, and will now remain, extreme-ly important in the fashion industry, paving the direction the industry will take and forecasting what consumers will desire in the future. This report will analyse the importance of trends, whilst covering the impact trend forecasting is having on roles in the fashion industry. In addition, the trends will be further explored in terms of social, cultural and economic influenc-es, and whether these are impacting the application process of trend forecasting. Primary and secondary research will also be used to determine five key trends for Spring/Sum-mer 2016, then focusing on trends in the city of Nottingham, by utilising shop safari results and street style interviews.

INTRODUCTION

Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5

Fig 6

6

Shop safari

Style hunting

Store interviews

Street interviews

Location tracking

METHODOLOGY

Primary and secondary research was undertaken through-out this project to gather information and insights from a wide variety of sources. Trends were identified in the city of Nottingham, in order to understand what trends are visible in the high street shops and what trends the people of Nottingham are wearing.

Primary research Secondary research

Databases e.g. Wgsn

Books & Journals

Magazines & articles

Websites

Tv clips

In the current fast-paced and ever changing generation, forecasting for the future and planning ahead is vital, especially in fashion. For being eventually responsible for what garments are brought by buyers, trends shape the way the fashion industry will look in seasons to come, signifying howimportant trends are and how they impact certain roles in the fashion industry. In addition to this, according to Kim, E. (2011), trend forecast-ing ‘not only gives a reliable view of future trends,’ but it also gives brands the ‘confidence that their creative business decisions are well informed.’ This reiterates how important trend forecasting is in the fashion industry; shaping what it yet to come and reassuring brands they are going in the right direction.

TREND FORECASTING

Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9

8

According to Kim, E. (2011, Fashion Trends), the trend fore-casting process begins two years in advance, encompassing the three components of this process: environment, market and product. The environment is primarily scanned, again according to Kim, E. (2011), ‘to search for current and near future trends in the economic, political, social and cultural sectors.’ The focus then moves onto the market, where sales figures and competitors are analysed, and consumer research is undertaken. Evaluation of the product is the final compo-nent, in which past styles, textures and colours are analysed to predict the next trends. Other sources such as trade shows, publications and fashion magazines are also analysed and understood, extracting key elements that worked throughout that particular fashion season. These three components make up the fashion forecasting process, however with the pace of the fashion cycle rapidly increasing, ‘a shorter forecasting cycle is becoming necessary’. Kim, E. (2011).

THE PROCESS

Fig 10

High street retailers look to up to catwalks for inspira-tion and the latest trends, and need a fast turnaround

for garments. With consumer demand higher than ever fast fashion stores like ZARA are renowned for their fast

turnaround, the brand is able to have an item in their stores three weeks from the beginning of the design process to the time it lands in the store to purchase.

With the rise of online retailers, trend forecasting is key to stay afloat in the overcrowded industry. Not only this

but consumers are constantly bombarded with brands, therefore to stand out brands have to stay current and on

trend, as consumers may shop elsewhere.

Designers and buyers are responsible for translating products and garments which reflect trend direction and the mood of the retailer or brand. Capturing the essence of the trend alongside keeping the brands identity is a key role of the buyers and it is vital they get the right balance. It is a buyer’s job to pick products which combine excitement with offer-ing the new, with the safety of keeping the garment within the current product offerings, ensuring it is something the target consumer would purchase. It is key brands launch the right product, at the right place and at the right time – trend prediction allows brands to do this by planning ahead.

Fig 11

Fig 12

BUSINESS OF FASHION

10

TREND CYCLE

The cycle of a trend begins with a weak signal, established by trend forecasting and spotting. The weak signal, according to aaltodoc [online], is an ‘indication of something new.’ If the signal is not growing or adopted by people, is it known as a fad or a flop. The cycle demonstrates how a trend grows tand is adopted by trend setters, through to moving into maturity with the late majority.

Fig 13

The next model, the diamond shape trend model, explains the various types of personalities and how they react to trends. The model also illustrates the size of each group, and the direction of how the trends moves down from each group of people. The biggest segment of consumers are mainstreamers, who follow the majority and adopt to trends when they become relatively safe and acceptable to wear. The model eventually ends with the conserv-atives, then moving down to an extreme group of people called the anti-innovators, who refuse to accept any changes or trends.

Fig 14

Fig 15

12

ROLE OF THE MEDIA

Bloggers and vloggers are now as inspirational as celebrities, with their social media accounts and websites gaining thousands of views every day. The creative and powerful imagery used by bloggers and vloggers, gives people insights into their daily routines, lifestyles and fashion. This creates instant desire within consumers, enticing them to constantly buy into the new trends, forcing the industry to increase further in pace. Zoella for example, is a YouTube blogger who has launched her own beauty range in Superdrug in September 2014. The rise of this YouTube star, alongside her ten million subscribers, has given her the platform to undertake this launch, therefore demonstrating the power and status bloggers and vloggers now have in this industry.

The role of media plays an immense part in trend forecasting, and on the fashion industry as a whole. With live access to runaway shows, catwalk trends are publicised to consumers instantly through social media, meaning that early adopters are able to begin writing, broadcasting and adopting to the trend, far quicker than ever before. Following brands on social media such as Instagram and snapchat, makes it far easier for consumers to stay in the know and connected with their favourite brands. With 60% of the total population owning at least one social media account, the world has changed in terms of technology and staying connected with others around the world.

Fig 16

“A trend is A reflection of

the spirit of the times”

L, Zegheanu

Fig 16

14

Fig 17

ENVIRONMENTAL INFLUENCES

With high demand of quick and cheap clothing from hundreds of fast fashion stores, the impact left on the environment is now a huge problem. Damage is caused after purchasing fast fashion garments, especially those no longer in fashion and are no longer being worn. With the fashion industry changing, fast fashion is becoming the norm; brands are responding to the changes in the market and customer preferences, in order to keep up with competitors. With trends constantly coming and going, disposal of clothing is causing mass amounts of pollution, filling up landfills and causing further damage to the environment. These ongoing issues where ignored by society until now, with conscious consumption coming into practise.

The first retailer in history to, "bring you more fashion choices that are good for people, the planet and your wallet," is H&M. The brand have provided in-depth training in human rights and responsibility for top management, reduced total emissions by 56% and have increased their use of renewable energy to represent 78% total energy consumption. Alongside these actions, H&M are also rewarding their consumers with a £5 voucher for every bag donated full of garments, shoes or accessories, encouraging consumers to recycle their garments that are no longer in fashion. H&M will hopefully become the leader of sustainable fashion with other brands and retailers following in their footsteps.

Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20

Fig 21

Fig 22

16

CULTURAL INFLUENCES `

“demAnding A chAnge in culture, fAst fAshion requires businesses to respond rApidly to the consumer demAnd And

plAn new mArket strAtegies”

L, Zegheanu

There are various cultural influences effecting the fashion industry and inspiring the new trends appearing on the catwalks. Designers and retailers need to understand cultural changes and influences in order to create on trend garments and understand consumers. Trend forecasters need to research and analyse not just fashion shifts but consumer behaviour, art, music, food and lifestyle. Fashion is about the intertwining link between fashion and life-style, and if forecasters and designers capture this in their new trends and garments they can have a deeper connec-tion with consumers. According to Fibre2Fashion [online], “The development of new trends usually involves three main sources, which influence our cultural life and lifestyle. These three sources are high culture, pop culture and low culture. High culture involves activities such as painting, visual art, photography, music, sculpture, amongst other activities. In terms of fashion, designers can take ideas and concepts from things like art pieces and sculptures in order to create inspiration for new designs and garments.

Fig 23

Fig 24

Popular culture is a commercial culture, followed by the mass market; having a strong impact on consumer behaviour and trend forecasting. “Pop culture is highly influenced by celebrities and includes the daily interactions and cultural 'moments' that constitute the everyday lives of the mainstream.” Fibre2Fashion [online]. Television shows, series’, and films all make up pop culture, and have a profound effect on what people currently wear. Celebrity culture is, cur-rently in 2016, the biggest influencer in the popular culture sector, with mass media increasing their power, exposure and occurrences in our everyday lives. Whether this is through social media, reality television shows or in magazines, celebrity’s glamorous daily lifestyles are so easily accessible to consumers, it generates desire to own similar things and to buy into the same trends. Brands and retailers are slowly shifting to using celebrities, mostly reality stars, to market their fashion or beauty products, due to the amount of consumers looking up to them and copying their looks. Low culture includes subcultures like graffiti and the hip hop movement; which mostly influences consumer’s attitudes and fashion. This is clearly seen in the surf and skateboard culture which influenced fashion from the 70s to the present day.

Fig 25

Fig 26

Fig 26

Fig 27

18

Social influences on trends and trend forecasting can also affect retailers and businesses. Accessibility of the internet and freedom of speech have allowed people to express their views and opinions on social implications of fashion, especially in the manufacturing industry. The Rana Plaza disaster is a key example of how people were exploited, regulations were ignored, and as a result, people’s lives were taken. The Rana Plaza was a clothing manufacture in Bangladesh which opened during the boom of the Bangladesh clothing industry and owned and ran by Sohel Rana. Due to the demand of fast, cheap fashion, businesses like the Rana Plaza forced their workers to make unrealistic amounts of garments in order to please retailers, ensuring they didn’t go to other countries. Due to corruption, negligence and unethical and dangerous working conditions, the building collapsed; kill-ing 1,134 workers and injuring 2,400, some as young as 17. (Clothes to die for film, 2014). Documentaries airing disasters like this, bring the catastrophic scale of the Rana Plaza tragedy home to consumers, hopefully creating more conscious consumers around the world. When buying into new trends from affordable, fast fashion retailers, the hope is that consumers understand the repercussions of manufacturing, alongside a rise in conscious consumers making a stand to child labour and poor, unethical working conditions.

SOCIAL INFLUENCES

Fig 28

Fig 29

20

As a part of a group, a shop safari was carried out to determine key trends appearing in the Nottingham retailers and on the Nottingham public. When undertaking the shop safari five 2016 trends were identified:

2016 SPRING/SUMMER TRENDS

Boudior

Embroidered denim

Fig 30

Fig 31

The cagoule

Romanticism

Shoulder focusFig 32

Fig 33

Fig 34

22

shoulder focus

Fig 35

The shoulder has been named the go to erogenous zone this summer, allowing the trend to be seen in many different variations both on the catwalk and on the high street.

“Sexy without being obvious; chic without being attention grabbing”

Fig 35

Fig 36

Fig 37

Fig 38

Fig 39

Fig 40

24

The ‘shoulder focus’ trend originates back to the 1840s, were fashion was charac-terised by low and sloping shoulders. Moving into 1855 Napoleon Empresses were wearing off the shoulder gowns, however it wasn’t until the 1960s, were this trend took off and the look was revolutionised by the fashion icon, Brigitte Bardot. Bri-gitte Bardot widely popularised the off the shoulder look, which was later given ‘Bardot’ as a nickname for this neckline. TV and film were other forms of medium that inspired the shoulder focus trend. Films such as Footloose and Flash dance showcased the off the shoulder and sloping shoulder look in the 1980s, moving into the 2000s, were young celebrities such as Linsey Lohan and Britney Spears were regularly seen in this look.

WHERE IT BEGAN

Fig 41 Fig 42 Fig 43

Despite the trend making appearances throughout the decades, the off the shoulder silhouette is defining the Spring/Summer 2016 catwalks. The shoulder focus term refers to garments with either the Bardot neckline, peak a boo cut outs or dropping shoulders. Designers such as Barbra Cassola are using peek a boo cut-outs which create a temporary and modern edge to outfits showcased on the runway. Differing from past seasons, 2016 off the shoulder tops are often bell sleeved, ruffled or statement tops, creating a sensual appeal without showing too much skin. Designers such as Creatures of comfort and Whit are opting for lightweight fabrics and loose silhouettes, perfect for the summer months and revealing a bohemian feel. Colour popping was also spotted in LFW and NYFW from designers such as PPQ and Proenza Schouler, each putting their own spin on their shoulder focused garments, adding a pop of colour or using bright, bold colours.

AS SEEN ON THE CATWALK

Maison Martin Margiela 16 Creatures of the Wind 16Creatires of Comfort

Whit

Fig 44 Fig 45 Fig 46 Fig 47

26

This trend has filtered down into high street retailers, with ZARA selling the most off the shoulder gar-ments in various cuts, materials and colours. Whisper blues and crisps whites dominate the high-street strors and websites, paired with vertical and horizontal stripes, bringing back the nautical trend. Crisp cotton is a common material used when creating the shoulder focused garments, giving them a structured, modern look. Ruffled silhouettes are also a key cut in off the shoulder styles and is extremely popular in the high street retailers of Nottingham; due to the feminine, soft lines which often accentuate or give ap-pearance of a smaller wait. Classically black was a staple colour that was used throughout this trend, how-ever a muted, pastel colour palette was also noted, which is well suited for the Spring/Summer 2016 vibe. Considering the pantones colours of the year, which include serenity blue, it is apparent that high street collections have taken inspiration from the key colour palettes of the season and are combing them with the off the shoulder trend to create a look completely current and 2016.

Zara isn’t the only high street retailer stocking this trend, others such as H&M, River Island, and Primark are also sporting this trend, styling the trend to create different shapes and silhouettes. Topshop have opted for tighter fitting garments, creating a contemporary and younger feel, where-as H&M are experimenting with patterns and colour, showcasing a bohemian look. Comparisons to online retailers can also be drawn, for example an Asos banded black bodycon dress is extremely similar to designer Barbara Casololas garment; both brands opting for a tight and skin revealing interpretation of the trend.

AS SEEN ON THE HIGHSTREET

H&M Topshop

Fig 48Fig 49 Fig 50

The social shift of women empowerment led women into power dressing in the 1980s, which has lead now in 2016, to women shifting towards more extravagant, confident dress-ing. This trend allows women to expose flesh, without being

too obvious or too revealing. It has been named the eroge-nous zone of the summer, portraying a flirty, flattering look,

without having to expose cleavage or leg. It allows women to feel confident, empowered and sexy, just by revealing a

simple shoulder.

Fig 51

28

TV and music are also a driving force behind this trend, heavily influencing whether consumers are

buying into this trend and what pieces they are buying. The 2016 brit awards showcased Rihanna’s

new single, with the artist performing in a white off the shoulder top and ruffled white trousers.

The massive number of viewers the brits received, alongside Rihanna’s millions of fans, suggests that

the artist had a huge effect on consumers buying into this trend or buying similar garments to the

piece she wore.

TREND DRIVERS

Influential celebrities are also a driving force be-hind the shoulder focus trend. Selina Gomez, Kendall Jenner and Ariana Grande are just a few featured in the top ten celebrities with the most Instagram followers in the world, so it’s not sur-prising the power and influence they have when it comes to fashion.

Fig 52

These images were taken from the celebrities Instagram accounts, demonstrat-ing how they have individually interpreted the trend and are showcasing it in their own way. Given their platform and their millions of followers, the trend has grown even further due to others coping their favourite celebrities. Some of these celebrities have appeared on popular magazines, showcasing the shoulder focus trend and illustrating how popular the trend has become in Spring/Summer 2016.

Fig 53

30

Fig 54 Fig 55

Fig 56 Fig 57

Fig 58

Bloggers have also picked up on this trend with popular bloggers opting for the off the shoulder look. Popular bloggers such as Hannahlouisef and Cococozy have brought into and written about this trend, explaining to their readers the best ways to style this trend and what to pair with the shoulder focus garments. With the development of technology, blogging has became so popular that some bloggers have even become as influential as celebrities, with consumers aspiring to live their lifestyles and buy into the same trends. Bloggers alongside celebrities are part of what is driving this trend, and are responsible for how widespread it has become.

TREND DRIVERS

Fig 59

Fig 60

Fig 61

Fig 62

32

With the trend currently at its peak,decline is not expect-ed to occur until a/w when it becomes colder. However in s/s 17 WGSN expects the trend to be taken into swimwear whilst the tops become more extravagant and off the shoulder styling becomes pop-ular. The tops tend to have ruffled, short sleeves which offers a more dressed up take on the summer item.

FASHION LIFE CYCLE OF THE 'SHOULDER FOCUS' TREND

S/s 15 saw a few off the shoulder pieces emerge with WGSN predicting the trend to become even bigger in s/s 16.

Trend led retailers such as Zara and River Is-land began stocking this trend in early March, with other shops quickly following suit as the trend begins to grow. Celebrities are be-ginning to be seen wearing this trend.

Now in s/s 16 the trend is in full swing, stocked by the majority of high street and online retailers. The trend is also accessible to the majority of demographics and is stocked in different cuts, prints and colours.

Introduction

Grow

th

Maturity

Decline

Fig 63

SHOP SAFARI

To gain insights into how the ‘shoulder focus’ trend wasinterpreted by consumers in the city of Nottingham, whilst gaining further knowledge and understanding into the reality of this trend, a shop safari was undertaken. This began with research in high street stores and online retailers, looking at which brands were highly inspired by this trend and which were only selling a few pieces. It was found that every single shop researched sold at least one item that was ‘shoulder fo-cused,’ demonstrating how domineering this trend has become this Spring/Summer. This trend is also able to target all demo-graphics by using off the shoulder garments but in different cuts, materials, colour and patterns, to suit particular ages. When entering Topshop is was evident that they have adopt-ed to this trend however sold an increased amount of figure hugging garments in bolder colours, to appeal to their target audience of 15-30.

A brand in particular which stood out during the shop safari and highly interpreted this trend within their own brand identity, was Zara. When entering the store the mannequins were all dressed in either off the shoulder garments or shoulder cut out garments, the majority either in whisper blue or shades of white, illustrating how influential the trend has been on the retailer. An in-store interview with a Zara mem-ber of staff explained that the shop floor and mannequins are changed twice a week to try and create different in store atmospherics for the Zara consumer. The clothing on the mannequins, especially at the front of the store, and their window displays, are always based on current catwalk trends. In addition to this the outfits are also influenced by current events and seasons. An example of this being during the school holidays when the push will be on causal wear, targeting women who may be off work and shopping with their families.

Fig 64

Fig 65 Fig 66 Fig 67

34

After trend tracking online and undertaking a shop safari, street style interviews took place to gain in-depth knowledge into how the trend has filtered down to the people of Nottingham and what inspired their outfit choices.

It was found that the weather was a big factor in whether people where opting for the shoulder focus look; warm, pleasant weather brought out these garments as people want to look summery and keep cool.

STYLE HUNTER

Fig 68-73

"What inspired your look today?"

“Since seeing the presence of celebrities in magazines wearing shoulder cut out tops as an everyday casual look i I thought this look would work well for me.”

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?"

“I feel a bit self-conscious about my arms so this top works great and still adds detail to my outfit, making it sophisticated yet sexy.”

STYLE HUNTER // INTERVIEW 1

Female // 28 // Nottingham

36

"What inspired your look today?"

“I found this top in H&M and i loved it! I think its so summery and it really keeps me cool."

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?!

“I love wearing white so I thought this would look perfect on me."

STYLE HUNTER // INTERVIEW 2

Female // 20 // Nottingham

"What inspired your look today?"

"I've noticed the shoulder focus look on the catwalks and in the highstreets so much this spring, so I thought I'd try it."

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?"

“I found this on Boohoo and really loved it. It was perfect for when the sun wasen't quite out either. "

STYLE HUNTER // INTERVIEW 3

Female // 17 // Nottingham

38

"What inspired your look today?"

"I'm always reading fashion magazines and I picked up on the shoulder focus trend so I thought I'd get involved!!

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?"

“I love the pattern and colours of the top, and it was only cheap from Asos too."

STYLE HUNTER // INTERVIEW 4

Female // 24 // Nottingham

"What inspired your look today? "

"I love following trends so I really wanted a off the shoulder top, to look fashionable and girly."

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?"

“I wanted to look fashionable but also quite subtle so I brought this in black. It was also really affordable as it was from Primark."

STYLE HUNTER // INTERVIEW 5

Female // 20 // Nottingham

40

"What inspired your look today?"

“I really liked the festival trend and this is why I chose this boho style top. I also love the cut out shoulders as I have seen a lot of this trend in the shops and on my friends."

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?"

"I have a lot of tops like this one with the cut out shoulders, but this one is my favourite. I like the blue colour in it as I feel this colour really suits me."

STYLE HUNTER // INTERVIEW 6

Female // 40 // Nottingham

It is evident this trend has dominated the catwalks and the retailers for spring/sum-mer 2016, even filtering down to the people of Nottingham, all of varied demograph-ics. It was found that whether this trend was seen in blouses, tops, dresses and even knitwear, people were opting for this look and experimenting with different garments, cuts, patterns and colour. By reviewing the primary and secondary research, it was clear that this trend is here to stay, even into 2017, when the focus is expected to be on off the shoulder styling and shoulder focus swimwear.

After undertaking the shop safari it was evident that the majority of people in Nottingham were mainstreamers;

willing to buy into the trends but not until they have been established or becomes acceptable to wear them. Due to the versatility of this trend, consumers are able to either push the boundaries and wear statement or extravagant

shoulder focus pieces, or subtly buy into this trend by opting for a cut out or slopping shoulder garment. This

therefore validates that this trend has worked well in Nottingham, appealing to all demographics and being easily accessible from the vast majority of high streets

stores.

Fig 72

42

The shoulder in some cultures, is seen as a particular part of the body which portrays negative denotations. Research shows that Arabs are just one group of people who frown on clothing which reveals the arms, legs and most impor-tantly, the shoulders. With this in mind an idea was generated to juxtapose the location, to the cultural denotations of the shoulder. Ideas raised for the loca-tion was then either a church, graveyard or a historic castle, contrasting to some cultural beliefs and opinions on women revealing their shoulders.

The decision was then made to shoot at Nottingham Castle, a historic building with beautiful backdrops and with beige, ancient looking walls. The choice to shoot on loca-tion rather than in a studio was made to portray a high fashion feel, and to create a sharp contrast between the trend lead garments and the backdrop. The garments chosen were all in a blue and white colour scheme, apart from a single pair of black culottes. This was done to showcase the colours mostly dominating this trend on the catwalks and high-streets for spring/summer 2016.

EDITORIAL RATIONAL

LOCATION INSPIRATION

Fig 73

Fig 74

Fig 75

Fig 76

THE LOCATION //NOTTINGHAM CASTLE

Fig 77-81

44

Due to the simple, flowing materials and the decision to stick with only a blue and white colour scheme, the location needed to be rugged looking, rustic and old, creating the perfect juxtaposition. The idea was to create striking, enticing looking images using the pale blue and crisp white garments against the beige, rustic walls of Nottingham Castle.

The garments were all styled with a pair of nude heels, creating a high fashion look. The idea was to show readers how this trend can be sophisticatedly worn in the spring/summer, whether in or out of the office, how-ever shot without using colours usually associated with spring/summer. The poses and stance of the model were shot purposely to create an upscale, contemporary look that would fit perfectly in the chosen magazine, Elle.

The decisions were made for all of the above in order to affect and to alter the way this trend is marketed to consumers. The shoul-der focus trend is often associated with the boho trend, as numerous garments tend to interpret them both. This is usually mar-keted to consumers as girly, flowery and sometimes quite young. The goal was to market this trend to consumers in a differ-ent yet more sophisticated way, especially when taking into consideration Elle’s target audience. The images photographed were flattering, feminine yet classic; ensuring the outfits were something that Elle readers would aspire to be wearing. The decision was then made to include the words ‘office wear’ into the editorial, in order to target females working within an office and more likely to read Elle. Overall the editorial tar-gets the demographic of Elle’s target audi-ence whilst enticing in their consumers and showcasing outfits they will aspire to wear. The language used will also encourage Elle’s buyers to read on by providing them with inspiration and the advice on how they can make the ‘shoulder focus’ trend work for them.

Fig 82

EDITORIAL // COOL INTENTIONS

46

COOLintentions

Breeze through summer in lighweight fabrics and

minimalist garments, in the most flattering of necklines. Exposing a simple shoulder

this season allows you to stay chic, cool and on trend, whether

you’re in or out of the office.

Pin striped palazzo trousers £26.99, Mango, matched with a simple, breezy white top £35.99, Zara, gives a flowy silhouette. The low off the shoulder neckline creates a flirty, romantic feel.

COOL

From day to night this denim dress portrays a flirty

feel; with its layered frills and frayed detailing.

Keeping within a blue colour palette it remains a

key piece for spring/summer 2016.

48

Flowing and flattering materials turn these garments into summer

essentials. Pairing stripes with soft white creates a feminine, on

trend look, perfect for spring/summer 2016.

White bandeau, £6.00, Newlook. Striped skirt, £19.99, H&M.

Turn your officeoutfit into an effortless, contemporary look, just by revealing your shoulders.

The statement shirt, £24.99, Zara, in whisper blue, is turned

into a 2016 piece with the use of cut out shoulders and lace up

detailing.

50

Keep it simple by pairing pin stripe culottes, £25.00, H&M, with a flattering, crisp white blouse; with added crochet embroidery and belled sleeves, £39.99, Zara.

CONCLUSION

The process of this project from the early stages right up until this report has broadened my knowledge of the fashion industry and has given me insights into how trends are made, grown and adapted by consumers. The trend cycle models and my secondary research has allowed me to understand how trends are created and what external factors influence what future trends will be.

The trend begins with the trend creators and gradu-ally goes through the cycle being adopted by different groups of people at different stages. The project has also led me to understand how many different factors are responsible for the widespread growth of the shoulder focus trend. In addition this project has allowed me to understand how a trend is born and how it filters down through society, from designers, catwalk runaways, and eventually to the people of Nottingham.

After analysing social media, new reports, magazines and TV fashion items, it is clear that the shoulder focus trend has been and will continue to be, a huge success, especially for spring/summer 2016.

In terms of the future of trends in general, research proves that the speed of the fashion industry is still in-creasing, however the hope is that an increased amount of brands, retailers and manufacturers will become more environmentally responsible and consumers will become more conscious. This will be down to technol-ogy, and how information on environmental and social implications of fashion is so easily accessible; therefore causing consumers to think about the repercussions of constantly buying fast fashion.

52

REFERENCES

BOOKKim, E., Fiore, A.M. and Kim, H. (2011) Fashion trends - analysis and forecasting. Oxford: Berg Publishers. WEBSITESZegheanu, L. (2014) Fashion trends’ impact on society. Available at: https://www.notjustalabel.com/editori-al/fashion-trends%E2%80%99-impact-society (Accessed: 14 May 2016).

Optika id 151 juselius patrick 2012 (2012) Available at: https://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/bitstream/han-dle/123456789/3932/optika_id_151_juselius_patrick_2012.pdf?sequence=1 (Accessed: 24 May 2016).

Sweeny, G. and Hauter, W. (2015) Fast fashion is the Second dirtiest industry in the world, next to big oil. Available at: http://ecowatch.com/2015/08/17/fast-fashion-second-dirtiest-industry/ (Accessed: 18 May 2016).

DeLong, M.R. (2006) Theories of fashion. Available at: http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-his-tory-eras/theories-fashion (Accessed: 14 May 2016).

Fibre2Fashion (2016) Fast fashion, fashion trends, fast fashion business, fashion retailers, H&M, and Zara, forever 21, Primark, fast fashion Apparels, Fibre2fashion. Available at: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/indus-try-article/4353/fast-fashion-fast-thinking-and-fast-changing?page=1 (Accessed: 18 May 2016).

FILMClothes to die for film (2014) Available at: http://clothestodieforfilm.com/ (Accessed: 18 May 2016).

WEBSITESDrohan, F. (2016) Eight fashion and beauty trends we can thank Brigitte Bardot for. Available at: http://www.independent.ie/style/beauty/eight-fashion-and-beauty-trends-we-can-thank-brigitte-bardot-for-30624337.html (Accessed: 20 May 2016).

User Login | WGSN | creating tomorrow (no date) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Future+Trends/w (Accessed: 14 May 2016).

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Fibre2Fashion (2016) Fast fashion, fashion trends, fast fashion business, fashion retailers, H&M, and Zara, forever 21, Primark, fast fashion Apparels, Fibre2fashion. Available at: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/indus-try-article/4353/fast-fashion-fast-thinking-and-fast-changing?page=1 (Accessed: 18 May 2016).

ABOUT.. (2009) Available at: http://www.intothefashion.com/2010/01/cultural-influences-on-trend.html (Accessed: 16 May 2016).

BBC (2016) How social media has changed the fashion industry. Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news-beat/article/34312805/how-social-media-has-changed-the-fashion-industry (Accessed: 16 May 2016).

Coco (2016) Kitchen. Available at: http://cococozy.com/ (Accessed: 5 June 2016).

DeLong, M.R. (2006) Theories of fashion. Available at: http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-histo-ry-eras/theories-fashion (Accessed: 14 May 2016).

Drohan, F. (2016) Eight fashion and beauty trends we can thank Brigitte Bardot for. Available at: http://www.independent.ie/style/beauty/eight-fashion-and-beauty-trends-we-can-thank-brigitte-bardot-for-30624337.html (Accessed: 20 May 2016).

Fashion trends, understanding fashion, fashion trend forecasting(2016) Available at: http://www.fibre2fash-ion.com/industry-article/3091/pink-is-out-but-blue-is-in-understanding-fashion-trend-forecasting (Ac-cessed: 14 May 2016).

F, H.L. (2016) Home - Hannah Louise Fashion. Available at: http://hannahlouisef.com/ (Accessed: 5 June 2016).

Home (2013) The importance of in-store graphics and displays. Available at: http://c-sgroup.co.uk/blog/the-importance-of-in-store-graphics-and-displays/ (Accessed: 16 May 2016).

Lakshmi Challa, L. (2016) Impact of textiles and clothing industry on environment: Approach towards Eco-Friendly textiles. Available at: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/1709/impact-of-tex-tiles-and-clothing-industry-on-environment?page=2 (Accessed: 18 May 2016).

Optika id 151 juselius patrick 2012 (2012) Available at: https://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/bitstream/han-dle/123456789/3932/optika_id_151_juselius_patrick_2012.pdf?sequence=1 (Accessed: 24 May 2016).

Posts, R. (2015) This is how you should wear the off-the-shoulder trend. Available at: http://www.justthede-sign.com/this-is-how-you-should-wear-the-off-the-shoulder-trend/ (Accessed: 5 June 2016).

Sowray, B. (2015) The 5 ingredients of Zara’s success. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/brands/the-5-ingredients-of-zaras-success/ (Accessed: 18 May 2016).

54

Sweeny, G. and Hauter, W. (2015) Fast fashion is the Second dirtiest industry in the world, next to big oil. Available at: http://ecowatch.com/2015/08/17/fast-fashion-second-dirtiest-industry/ (Accessed: 18 May 2016).

User Login | WGSN | creating tomorrow (no date) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/re-ports/#/Future+Trends/w (Accessed: 14 May 2016).

Zegheanu, L. (2014) Fashion trends’ impact on society. Available at: https://www.notjustalabel.com/editorial/fashion-trends%E2%80%99-impact-society (Accessed: 14 May 2016).

BOOKSKim, E., Fiore, A.M. and Kim, H. (2011) Fashion trends - analysis and forecasting. Oxford: Berg Pub-lishers.

Shaw, D. and Koumbis, D. (2013) Fashion buying: From trend forecasting to Shopfloor. Lausanne: Fairchild Books.

FILMClothes to die for film (2014) Available at: http://clothestodieforfilm.com/ (Accessed: 18 May 2016).

WORD COUNT:4340

APPENDIX 1

STYLE HUNTER INTERVIEWS

Female aged 28

"What inspired your look today?"

“Since seeing the presence of celebrities in magazines wearing shoulder cut out tops as an eve-ryday casual look she thought this look would work for her.”

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?"

“I feel a bit self-conscious about my arms so this top works great and still adds detail to my outfit, making it sophisticated yet sexy.”

Female aged 20

"What inspired your look today?"

“I found this top in H&M and i loved it! I think its so summery and it really keeps me cool."

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?!

“I love wearing white so I thought this would look perfect on me."

Female aged 17

"What inspired your look today?"

"I've noticed the shoulder focus look on the catwalks and in the highstreets so much this spring, so I thought I'd try it"

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?"

“I found this on Boohoo and really loved it. It was perfect for when the sun wasen't quite out either. "

56

STYLE HUNTER INTERVIEWS

Female aged 24

"What inspired your look today?"

"I'm always reading fashion magazines and I picked up on the shoulder focus trend so I thought I'd get involved!!

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?"

“I love the pattern and colours of the top, and it was only cheap from Asos too."

Female aged 20

"What inspired your look today? "

"I love following trends so I really wanted a off the shoulder top, to look fashionable and girly."

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?"

“I wanted to look fashionable but also quite subtle so I brought this in black. It was also really affordable as it was from Primark."

Female aged 40

"What inspired your look today?"

“I really liked the festival trend and this is why I chose this boho style top. I also love the cut out shoulders as I have seen a lot of this trend in the shops and on my friends."

"Why did you pick this particular shoulder focus garment?"

"I have a lot of tops like this one with the cut out shoulders, but this one is my favourite. I like the blue colour in it as I feel this colour really suits me."

APPENDIX 2

Female aged 19

"Why have you opted for the shoulder focus trend today?"

“It’s really subtle but sexy at the same time. I think it’s perfect for a house party."

"Who would you class as your influences when it comes to what you wear?"

“I follow a lot of bloggers on Instagram and I get inspiration from them. I follow thatPommieGirl and Fash-ionInFlux and I think their really on trend and they get their outfits from high street retailers.”

IN STORE INTERVIEW

Zara member of staff

"What determines what is placed ono the mannequins and the front of the store?"

“The garments on the mannequins, especially at the front of the store are always based on current catwalk trends. Zara as a retailer also go for a more tailored look compared to other high street retailers.”

"Have you noticed any behaviour patterns regarding the off the shoulder trend?"

“I have noticed a lot more clothing that is being brought is experimenting with different off the shoulder looks.”

"What do you think the future of this trend is?"

“I think it’s a classic look that a little bit flirty in a lady like way. Designers will probably play around with the fabrics and shapes of the garments more into the future.”

APPENDIX 3

58

Fig 1. http://www.fashionillustrationgallery.com/artists/ Accessed 30/5/16

Fig2. http://bullettmedia.com/article/gap-visionaire-got-bunch-artists-design-t-shirts-can-buy/ Accessed

30/05/16

Fig 3. https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/559220478704417643/

Fig4. http://www.zeutch.com/fashion/danit-peleg-creates-full-3d-printed-fashion-collection-at-

home-85855 Accessed 30/5/16

Fig 5. http://bullettmedia.com/article/gap-visionaire-got-bunch-artists-design-t-shirts-can-buy/ Accessed

30/05/16

Fig 6. http://pivoslyakova.tumblr.com/post/108089197479 Accessed 30/05/16

Fig 7. http://www.farfetch.com/uk/shopping/women/giambattista-valli-petal-ap-

plique-dress-item-11033978.aspx?storeid=9446&ffref=lp_40_1_lst Accessed 20/05/16

Fig 8. http://www.handfulofsalt.com/noticed-andreea-mandrescus-materiality/ Accessed 21/05/16

Fig 9. https://twitter.com/thecuttingclass Accessed 05/05/16

Fig 10. http://pivoslyakova.tumblr.com/post/108089197479 Accessed 05/05/16

Fig 11. https://uk.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=trend%20forecasting&rs=typed&0=trend%7Ctyped&1=-

forecasting%7Ctyped Accessed 17/05/16

Fig 12. http://www.urban75.org/photos/nottingham/nottingham-photos-2008.html Accessed 04/06/16

Fig 13. https://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/bitstream/handle/123456789/3932/optika_id_151_juselius_patrick_2012.

pdf?sequence=1 Accessed 09/05/16

Fig 14. https://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/bitstream/handle/123456789/3932/optika_id_151_juselius_patrick_2012.

pdf?sequence=1 Accessed 09/05/16

Fig 15. https://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/bitstream/handle/123456789/3932/optika_id_151_juselius_patrick_2012.

pdf?sequence=1

Fig 16. https://uk.pinterest.com Accessed 10/05/16

Fig 17. http://pictures745.bloguez.com/pictures745/697856/wholesale_silk_orchids Accessed 06/05/16

Fig 18. http://patterncurator.org/ Accessed 07/05/16

Fig 19. http://about.hm.com/en/About/sustainability/hm-conscious/conscious.html Accessed 20/05/16

Fig 20. http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/institute/a19379/hm-conscious-sustainable-fashion/ Accessed

20/05/16

Fig 21. http://www.houseofgratiaetcaritas.com/blog/retail-pioneers/retail-pioneers-hms-conscious-collec-

tion-continues-fashion-for-good-empire Accessed 20/05/16

IMAGE REFERENCES

Fig 21. http://www.houseofgratiaetcaritas.com/blog/retail-pioneers/retail-pioneers-hms-conscious-collec-

tion-continues-fashion-for-good-empire Accessed 20/05/16

Fig 22. http://fashionmarcomcase.com/hm-part-2-adding-value-through-sustainable-fashion/ Accessed

20/05/16

Fig 23. http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/institute/a19379/hm-conscious-sustainable-fashion/

Fig 24. http://spikey.com/these-artists-are-disturbing-20-pics-of-very-eerie-artwork/ Accessed 20/05/16

Fig 25. https://uk.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=art%20flowers&rs=typed&0=art%7Ctyped&1=flowers%7C-

typed

Fig 26. https://uk.pinterest.com/search/pins/?rs=ac&len=2&q=kardashian&etslf=230773&eq=kardashi-

an%20selfie&0=kardashian%7Cautocomplete%7C0 Accessed 20/05/16

Fig 27. http://www.polyvore.com/how_to_wear_baseball_caps/thing?id=159898846 Accessed 20/05/16 0

rihanna

Fig 28. http://www.cosmopolitan.com/entertainment/celebs/news/g4059/best-celebrity-selfies/ Accessed

20/05/16

Fig 29. https://www.i Fig 40. http://www.popsugar.com/fashion/Fashion-Trends-From-80s-90s-24016214

Fig 41. https://www.wgsn.com/content/search/#/off%2520the%2520shoulder Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 42. https://www.wgsn.com/content/search/#/off%2520the%2520shoulder Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 43. https://www.wgsn.com/content/search/#/off%2520the%2520shoulder Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 44. https://www.wgsn.com/content/search/#/off%2520the%2520shoulder Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 45. http://www.zara.com/ Accessed 01/06/16

Fig 46. http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/index.html Accessed 01/06/16

Fig 47. http://www.topshop.com/?geoip=home

Fig 48. https://uk.pinterest.com/search/?q=off+the+shoulder+photography accessed 20/05/16

Fig 49. http://hausofrihanna.com/rihanna-brit-awards-2016-armani-prive/

Fig 50. Own image – Instagram images

Fig 51. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3563960/I-t-believe-Bella-Hadid-excitedly-shares-

Vogue-cover-rocks-eighties-style-curls-glam-shoulder-crop-top.html accessed 01/06/16

Fig 52. http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/lily-james-suki-waterhoouse-marie-claire-2016-cover/ Ac-cessed

01/06/16

Fig 53. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3169977/Karlie-Kloss-shows-fit-figure-springs-action-

athletic-new-photo-shoot.html

Fig 54. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3506245/Kendall-Jenner-lands-Vogue-cover-dish-

60

Fig 40. http://www.popsugar.com/fashion/Fashion-Trends-From-80s-90s-24016214

Fig 41. https://www.wgsn.com/content/search/#/off%2520the%2520shoulder Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 42. https://www.wgsn.com/content/search/#/off%2520the%2520shoulder Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 43. https://www.wgsn.com/content/search/#/off%2520the%2520shoulder Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 44. https://www.wgsn.com/content/search/#/off%2520the%2520shoulder Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 45. http://www.zara.com/ Accessed 01/06/16

Fig 46. http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/index.html Accessed 01/06/16

Fig 47. http://www.topshop.com/?geoip=home

Fig 48. https://uk.pinterest.com/search/?q=off+the+shoulder+photography accessed 20/05/16

Fig 49. http://hausofrihanna.com/rihanna-brit-awards-2016-armani-prive/

Fig 50. Own image – Instagram images

Fig 51. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3563960/I-t-believe-Bella-Hadid-excitedly-shares-

Vogue-cover-rocks-eighties-style-curls-glam-shoulder-crop-top.html accessed 01/06/16

Fig 52. http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/lily-james-suki-waterhoouse-marie-claire-2016-cover/ Ac-

cessed 01/06/16

Fig 53. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3169977/Karlie-Kloss-shows-fit-figure-springs-ac-

tion-athletic-new-photo-shoot.html

Fig 54. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3506245/Kendall-Jenner-lands-Vogue-cover-dish-

es-Instagram-star-college.html accessed 01/06/16

Fig 55. https://models.com/work/harpers-bazaar-uk-january-2016-magazine-covers accessed 01/06/16

Fig 56. http://hannahlouisef.com/ Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 57. http://cococozy.com/ Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 58. http://dashingdarlin.com/ Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 59. http://www.elle.com/fashion/trend-reports/news/g8962/off-shoulder-blouses-tops/ Ac-cessed

15/05/16

Fig 60. http://www.valuebasedmanagement.net/methods_product_life_cycle.html Accessed 15/06/16

Fig 61. Own image, taken 05/05/16

Fig 62, 63, 64. Own image, taken 05/05/16

Fig 65- 70. Own images, taken 15/05/16

Fig 71. http://harperandharley.com/

Fig 72. http://honeypielivingetc.blogspot.co.uk/

Fig 73. http://honeypielivingetc.blogspot.co.uk/

Fig 74. https://www.flickr.com/photos/42807663@N04/8124399809/

Fig 75. http://www.britainexpress.com/attractions.htm?attraction=4708

Fig 76- 80 Own image, Accessed 15/05/16

Fig 81. http://nicolekidmanofficial.com/updates/nicole-covers-elle-magazines-january-2015-issue/

Accessed 01/06/16

Editorial

Fig 82 – 86. Own images, taken 15/05/16

62