EU MARKET SURVEY 2001

FASHION JEWELLERY

Compiled for CBI by:

Searce

in collaboration withH. Tiggeler

July 2001

DISCLAIMERThe information provided in this survey is believed to be accurate at the time of writing. It is, however, passed on to the reader without any responsibility on the part of CBI or the authors and it does not release the reader from theobligation to comply with all applicable legislation.

Neither CBI nor the authors of this publication make any warranty, expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy of the information presented, and will not be liable for injury or claims pertaining to the use of this publication or the information contained therein.

No obligation is assumed for updating or amending this publication for any reason, be it new or contrary informationor changes in legislation, regulations or jurisdiction.

Update of EU Market Survey “Fashion jewellery” (July 2000).

Photo courtesy:

Searce

CONTENTS

REPORT SUMMERY 6

1 PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS 91.1 Product groups 91.2 Customs/statistical product classification 10

2 INTRODUCTION TO THE EU MARKET 11

3 CONSUMPTION 133.1 Market size 133.2 Market segmentation 183.3 Trends 203.4 Consumption patterns 29

4 PRODUCTION 32

5 IMPORTS 345.1 Total imports 345.2 Imports by product group 375.3 The role of developing countries 42

6 EXPORTS 45

7 TRADE STRUCTURE 477.1 EU trade channels 477.2 Distribution channels for developing country exporters 51

8 PRICES AND MARGINS 538.1 Prices and margins 538.2 Sources of price information 54

9 OPPORTUNITIES FOR EXPORTERS 55

APPENDICES1 Detailed import/export statistics 562 Standards organisations 663 Sources of price information 674 Trade associations 685 Trade fair organisers 696 Trade press 707 Trade promotion organisations 718 Other useful addresses 729 List of developing countries 7310 List of Netherlands importers and key EU importers 7411 Useful Internet sites 79

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REPORT SUMMARY

This survey profiles the EU market for fashionjewellery, which includes costume jewellery, silverjewellery and hair ornaments. It emphasises those items which are relevant to exporters from developingcountries, and highlights six selected markets within the EU. With regard to silver jewellery, it should benoted that precious silver jewellery is also includedhere. Statistics do not differentiate between cheap andexpensive silver items and this may give anovervaluation in the overall total of the fashionjewellery market, imports and exports. Nonetheless,whenever possible, the less expensive ranges of silverjewellery, with a retail price of under US$ 250 will beemphasized in this survey.

The survey provides information on consumption,production, imports/exports, trade structure and pricesand margins. The appendices at the end of the surveyinclude contact details of importers, trade associationsand other relevant organisations.

As an exporter, you need this information to formulateyour own marketing or product strategies. To assist youin taking the right decisions and to become familiarwith how to assess the right sales channel, CBI hasdeveloped a matching EU Strategic Marketing Guide“Fashion jewellery” (2000). This practical handbook ismade for exporters from developing countries, whowish to expand or break into the EU market and givespractical information on quality standards and on howto deal with prospective buyers or partners. It alsoprovides a methodology of analysis and ready-to-fill-inframeworks, which can be completed using much of theinformation provided in this EU Market Survey.

This EU Market Survey and the EU StrategicMarketing Guide serve as a basis for further marketresearch: after you have read the survey and filled in the frameworks in the strategic marketing guide it isimportant to further research your target markets,sales channels and potential customers.

Market research depends on secondary data (data thathas already been compiled and published) and primarydata (information that you collect yourself). An example of secondary data is this EU MarketSurvey. Primary data are needed when secondary dataare not sufficient for your needs as, for example, whenyou are researching which type of consumer will beinterested in your specific product. Some useful sourcesof information are (statistical) databanks, newspapersand magazines, market reports, (annual) reports frombranch associations, along with shops in targetcountries, products or catalogues from yourcompetitors, and conversations with suppliers,

specialists, colleagues and even competitors. After youcollected your information, you should analyse theinformation. In order to judge the attractiveness of themarket or sales channel, you should develop aclassification or score system.

For more detailed information on market researchreference is made to CBI’s Export Planner (2000).

ConsumptionThe countries covered in this survey are the UnitedKingdom, Germany, Italy, France, Spain and The Netherlands, which are the largest EU consumersof jewellery. Compared to other world markets, demandthroughout the EU is more fragmented. People in thewarmer, southern EU countries tend to be moreextravagant in their choice of jewellery and buy moregold and bright colours than their counterparts in the cooler north, who prefer silver and less extrovertdesigns and colours.

The EU is the second largest world market for fashionjewellery, with retail sales in 1999 estimated at US$ 6,197 million, excluding hair ornaments. Of thistotal 49%, or US$ 3,034 million, was spent on costumejewellery, mainly in the United Kingdom, France andGermany. Around 51%, some US$ 3,163 million, wasspent on silver jewellery, mainly in Italy and Germany.Between 1990 and 1999, there was a steady increase indemand in all selected markets.

In 1999, rough estimates from trade sources indicatedtotal EU retail sales of US$ 240-280 million for hair ornaments and sales have increased dramatically inthe past few years.

Changing fashion trends have led to new users offashion jewellery (men, boys and children) entering the market, while price competition has intensifiedbecause of an oversupply of popular items in the past few years. Since 1997, the economic growth in most ofthe selected markets within the EU has led to anincreased demand for designer and branded jewellery,especially items made of higher quality materials such as silver, titanium, semi-precious stones, colouredrhinestones, glass, imitation pearls or beads.

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ProductionThe manufacture of fashion jewellery was once animportant industry in most of the selected EU countries but production in recent years has declined drasticallybecause of intense competition from Asia. Europeanproduction of fashion jewellery is now concentratedmainly in Italy, France, Germany, Spain and the United Kingdom. Italy is the largest manufacturer ofsilver jewellery, and in 1999 produced jewellery with anestimated production value of around US$ 628 million.France, which produced jewellery worth around US$ 140 million in 1999, is the largest EUmanufacturer of costume jewellery. Most EU producersare now small companies specialising in good qualityand exclusive designs.

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DistributionFashion jewellery is often sold in non-specialised retailoutlets such as department and clothing stores,drugstores, supermarkets, optical stores, gift shops,hairdressers or sports shops. Attractive displays,often near the cash desk, encourage consumers to makeimpulse purchases. Specialised chain stores areprevalent in middle and northern EU countries,while smaller genuine specialists for fashion jewellery are typical in France, Italy and Spain. Apart from theGerman chain store Bijoux Brigitte, which has outlets throughout the EU, distribution is generallyconcentrated at national level. In France, franchising iscommon, while in the United Kingdom non-specialistoutlets, especially department stores, are importantretail sales outlets. In all countries home shopping forjewellery is slowly becoming more important.

ImportsThe EU is one of the major world importers of fashionjewellery. Imports in 1999 totalled 41,669 tonnes,with a value of US$ 1,302 million. Between 1997 and 1999, imports of fashion jewellery increased in allcountries in the EU, although statistics indicate fallingvalues of these imports because the price of most items has decreased, especially those destined for low-end markets.

EU retail sales of fashion jewellery, 1990 - 2000 (value in US$ million)

1990 1994 1999 2000*Value Value Value Market share Value

Costume jewellery (total EU) 2,337 2,362 3,034 100% 3,133United Kingdom 350 371 496 16% 518France 344 369 487 16% 498Germany 373 394 415 14% 427Italy 312 201 218 7% 226Spain 142 161 182 6% 189The Netherlands 105 107 139 5% 146Other EU countries 711 759 1,097 36% 1,129Silver jewellery (total EU) 2,460 2,525 3,163 100% 3,279Italy 517 469 537 29% 553United Kingdom 283 219 309 16% 323France 293 291 302 16% 311Germany 361 427 512 13% 529Spain 202 221 234 3% 243The Netherlands 102 116 167 2% 174Other EU countries 702 782 1,102 21% 1,146Total fashion jewellery** 4,797 4,887 6,197 6,412

* forecast; ** excluding hair accessories

Source: Euromonitor, Mintel, NFA, Bijorcha, VDSI, CBS (2000 - 2001)

Important changes in consumer habits and trends:

→ Individuality : consumers tend to develop theirown independent distinctive style.

→ Combinations : the mixing of styles, materials(beads, stones, glass, leather) andcolours.

→ Extravagant chic : young women like to show theirfashionable and “expensive”jewellery to others.

→ Spiritualism : consumers are influenced byastrology, religion, tribalism andforeign cultures.

Main EU importersGermany is the largest EU importer and accounted for around one quarter of total imports in 1999:5,165 tonnes, with a value of US$ 330 million. In terms of volume, the United Kingdom was a largeEU importer: 13,830 tonnes, valued at US$ 248 million,or 19% of the total EU import value. The UnitedKingdom is followed by France (15% of EU imports in1999), Italy (8%), Spain (6%) and The Netherlands (5%).

Main supplying countriesIn 1999, around 40% of EU imports came from otherEU countries, with Italy, Austria and Germany togethersupplying 25% of all fashion jewellery purchased in theEU, and the remaining 60% being imported from non-EU sources. Since the early 1990s, Asian countries havemade dramatic inroads into the EU market for fashionjewellery, with China and Thailand being its largestnon-EU suppliers. Other increasingly important sourcesof supply are South Korea, Hong Kong, India and thePhilippines.

Developing countriesIn 1999, 43% of EU imports, valued at US$ 555 million,came from developing countries. The volume ofimports from developing countries rose dramatically –from 10,615 to 16,647 tonnes. The largest of theseincreases were in the supplies from China, Thailand,South Korea and India. Other countries like the Philippines, Turkey, Mauritius, Tunisia, Nepal and Costa Rica also increased their supplies to the EUconsiderably.

Opportunities for exportersAlthough official statistics for 2000 were not available intime for this publication, preliminary figures indicated arise of 3% in total EU retail sales in that year, or a totalvalue of US$ 6,412 million. Growth is expected to slowin the year 2001, with a gradual move upmarket. The trend of targeting specific niche market segmentsfor jewellery, such as for mature women, younger menand children, will become more important. There areopportunities for all fashion jewellery items, especiallyneckwear, bracelets and hair ornaments. Increased demand is expected for variations in materialand for innovative products. To differentiate theirproduct ranges from those of other producers, it isrecommended that exporters specialise in terms of:

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Threats and difficulties for exporters:• Innovations in current items and the development

of new items are frequently required in order tomaintain the ever-changing tastes of consumers. A good knowledge of the market is essential.

• Neckwear and bracelets with stones and beads arevery fashionable now, but this may change withina year. It is, therefore, difficult to start a long-terminvestment based on the current market situation.

• Production capacity, keen pricing and fast deliveryare needed to establish reliable relationships withimporters or other buyers. Here, goodcommunication, flexibility and perfectionism arevery important.

• Competition is intense in the jewellery market andamateurism loses out to professionalism.

→ Skills : specially-made jewellery, created by unique metal working, finishing or material combinations.

→ Country : jewellery which is distinctive to its countryof origin.

→ Material : the use of unique (natural) materials or theuse of a unique combination of materials.

→ Design : become a specialist in jewellery of uniqueor specific ethnic design from your ownculture.

→ Price : specialise in producing very cheapjewellery, to be sold at discount prices.

1 PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

1.1 Product groupsThe products covered in this survey are costumejewellery, silver jewellery (lower priced items with a retail price of under US$ 250) and hair ornaments,all of which are sold within the fashion jewellery sector.Products like watches, sunglasses, scarves, belts,hats/caps, gloves, socks, handbags and shopping bags,which consumers buy as accessories to enhance orcomplete their fashion outfits, are not covered.

Jewellery items costing more than US$ 250 each andmade of hallmarked precious silver or other preciousmetals (gold or platinum) are covered in the EU MarketSurvey ‘Precious jewellery’. Other jewellery-relatedproducts can be found in the Market Survey ‘Preciousand semi-precious stones’.

Distinctions between fashion jewellery and preciousjewelleryFashion jewellery can be distinguished from preciousjewellery by its material content. The most commonmaterials used in fashion jewellery are shown below:

fashion stores and in a variety of other outlets, such asdrugstores, super or hypermarkets, street shoe shops,market stalls or even gasoline stations.

Fashion jewellery: main products and stylesThe term fashion jewellery covers all objects ofpersonal adornment associated with a particular style of clothing, haircut, life style or mood and as aconsequence jewellery collections quickly change toaccommodate the latest fashion trends. The mainproducts and styles are shown below:

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Fashion jewellery Material content

Costume jewellery → Base metals (plated with silverand/or gold), brass, copper,stainless steel, titanium, softmetals (tin and lead), aluminium,alpaca (alloy of copper, brass andzinc), ceramics, glass, plastic,resin, wood, rubber, plastic,leather, nylon, terracotta, horn,raffia, coconut, shells, amber,imitation pearls, resin,natural/semi-precious stones,recycled material (bones, eggshells) and all sorts of beads (e.g. made of glass, metal, resin,terracotta).

Silver jewellery → Silver (with or without hallmark)and sterling silver (alloy of 92.5%silver and copper).

Hair ornaments → Plastic, rubber, horn, wood,leather, nylon, cotton, tin, copperand silver.

Fashion jewellery also differs from precious jewelleryin terms of where it is sold. Precious jewellery is normally sold in traditional jewellery shops ordepartment stores, tax-free shops and high-class giftoutlets. Fashion jewellery, however, can usually befound in specialised accessory shops, department stores,

Main products Styles in fashionjewellery (for 2001/2002)

• Neckwear • City style / Classic style• Earrings • Casual style • Rings • Romantic style • Bracelets • Bohemian style• Piercings • Natural style• Brooches • Disco style• Cuff-links, studs, tie-clips • Punk style• Hair ornaments (hairslides, • Ethnic style

pins, grips, tiaras)• Others: badges and bodywear,

including tattoos

Fashion jewellery is sometimes also referred to ascostume jewellery, imitation jewellery or bijoux.The terms ‘fashion’ and ‘costume’ are often usedinterchangeably by consumers, whereas the trade moreoften use the terms ‘costume’ or ‘bijoux’. Because thissurvey covers three product groups (costume jewellery,silver jewellery and hair ornaments), in which fashionhas become increasingly more important, the term‘fashion jewellery’ will be used.

Because trade statistics do not differentiate betweencheap and expensive silver or between the differentalloys of silver and other metals, all jewellerycontaining silver is categorised as ‘silver jewellery’ inthis market survey. This results in an overlap in thequantitative information (market size and tradestatistics) about silver jewellery between this surveyand the other EU Market Survey ‘Precious jewellery’.Nonetheless, this survey deals with the less expensiveranges of silver jewellery.

The statistics of hair ornaments include combs andhairslides, which are more functional rather thanornamental. This sub group accounts for two-third ofthe total value of EU imports of hairornaments.

A breakdown of hair ornaments, as in table 1.1, canbe found in the EU import statistics by product group(detailed), which is given in Appendix 1. In this survey,the main focus will be as much as possible, ondecorative hair ornaments such as hairslides, pins,grips etc., of which little statistics are available.

1.2 Customs/statistical product classification The classification system used for both Customs andstatistical purposes in EU member countries is theHarmonised Commodity Description and CodingSystem (HS), which is used worldwide.

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Table 1.1 gives a list of the main HS codes for fashionjewellery, most of which can be found in Chapter 71 ofthe Harmonised System. Distinctions are made hereaccording to the raw material used in their manufacture.The relevant HS code groups for costume or imitationjewellery, silver jewellery and hair ornaments coveredin this survey are:

Table 1.1 HS code classification of fashion jewellery

HS Code Product group

7117 1910 Imitation jewellery of base metal, whether or not it is clad/plated with silver, gold or platinum, with parts ofglass (excl. cuff links and studs). ‘Costume jewellery-of metal-clad-with glass’

7117 1991 Imitation jewellery of base metal, whether or not it is clad/plated with silver, gold or platinum (excl. jewellerywith parts of glass, cuff-links and studs). ‘Costume jewellery of metal-clad’

7117 1999 Imitation jewellery of base metal, (excl. jewellery clad/plated with silver, gold or platinum, or with parts ofglass, cuff-links and studs). ‘Costume jewellery of metal’

7117 9000 Imitation jewellery (excl. imitation jewellery of base metal, whether or not clad/plated with silver, gold orplatinum). ‘Costume jewellery of other material’ *

7117 1100 Cuff-links and studs of base metal, whether or not clad/plated with silver, gold or platinum

7113 1100 Silver jewellery, whether or not plated/clad with other precious metal.

9615 1100 Combs, hair-slides and the like of hard rubber or plastics.

9615 1900 Combs, hair-slides and the like (excl. hard rubber or plastics).

9615 9000 Hairpins, curling pins, curling grips, hair curlers and the like, and parts thereof not exactly specified (excl. electro-thermic appliances).

* This includes all natural materials (e.g. leather, wood, horn, bone, resin, terracotta etc.), beads and glass.

Source: Eurostat (2001)

2 INTRODUCTION TO THE EU MARKET

European UnionThe European Union (EU) is the current name for theformer European Community. Since January 1, 1995 theEU has consisted of 15 member states. Negotiations arein progress with a number of candidate member states,many of whom already have extensive trade and co-operation agreements with the EU. It is envisaged thatfive of these countries will become members in 2003.

In 1999, the EU population totalled 376 million and theaverage GDP per capita amounted to US$ 22,767.

The most important aspect of the process of unification(of the former EC countries) which affects trade is theharmonisation of rules in EU countries. As unificationallows free movement of capital, goods, services andpeople, the internal borders have been removed and goodsproduced or imported into one member state can bemoved around between the other member states withoutrestrictions. A precondition for this free movement isuniformity in the rules and regulations concerning locallyproduced or imported products. Although the EU isalready a fact, regulations in member countries have notyet been harmonised. Work is in progress to create EUregulations in the fields of environmental pollution,health, safety, quality and education.

Euro (€) and ECUOn January 1, 1999, the Euro (€) became the legalcurrency within 11 EU member states: Austria,

Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Ireland,Luxembourg, The Netherlands, Spain, and Portugal.Their national currencies are now subdivisions of theEuro but will continue to circulate as legal tender until2002.

Circulation of Euro coins and banknotes will begin onJanuary 1, 2002 and these will gradually replacenational currency notes and coins, which must bewithdrawn by July 1, 2002. At present, banking is possible in both the Euro (€) and national currency.

Currencies used in this EU market surveyThe most recent Eurostat trade statistics quoted in thissurvey are from the year 1999. In previous years, theEuropean Currency Unit (ECU) was still used as amonetary instrument by financial institutions tosimplify financial procedures. On January 1, 1999,statistical and contractual values in ECU wereconverted into Euros on a 1:1 exchange rate. In 1999,the €/US$ exchange rate was US$ 1.06 for one €,which is used in all statistics in this market survey.However in 2000, the value of the Euro fell to anexchange rate of US$ 0.96 for one €.

In this market survey, the US$ is the basic currency unitused to indicate value. In trade statistics given inAppendix 1, the values for dates after January 1,1999 are also expressed in €.

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Exchange rates of EU currencies in US$

Country Currency 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000

European Union ECU / € 1.18 1.29 1.25 1.13 1.12 1.06 0.96Austria Ash 0.088 0.099 0.094 0.082 0.081 0.072 0.07Belgium/Luxemb. Bfr 0.031 0.034 0.032 0.028 0.028 0.025 0.024Denmark Dkr 0.16 0.18 0.17 0.15 0.15 0.14 0.13France Ffr 0.18 0.20 0.20 0.17 0.17 0.15 0.15Finland FM 0.19 0.23 0.22 0.19 0.19 0.17 0.16Germany DM 0.62 0.70 0.66 0.58 0.57 0.51 0.49Greece GRD 0.0041 0.0043 0.0041 0.0036 0.0034 0.0031 0.0029Ireland I£ 1.49 1.6 1.6 1.52 1.42 1.26 1.22Italy L 0.00062 0.00061 0.00065 0.00059 0.00058 0.00051 0.0005Netherlands NLG 0.55 0.62 0.59 0.51 0.51 0.45 0.44Portugal Esc 0.006 0.0067 0.0065 0.0057 0.0056 0.0049 0.0048Spain Ptas 0.0075 0.008 0.0079 0.0068 0.0067 0.006 0.0058Sweden Skr 0.13 0.14 0.15 0.13 0.13 0.12 0.12United Kingdom GB£ 1.53 1.57 1.56 1.64 1.66 1.61 1.58

Source: CBS Statline (2001)

Trade statisticsTrade statistics quoted in this survey must beinterpreted and used with extreme caution. The collection of data regarding trade flows hasbecome more difficult since the establishment ofthe single market on January 1, 1993. Until that date, trade was registered by means of compulsorycustoms procedures at border crossings, but, sincethe removal of the intra-EU borders, this is no longerthe case. Statistical bodies like Eurostat cannot nowdepend on the automatic generation of trade figures. In the case of intra-EU trade, statistical reportingis only compulsory for exporting and importingfirms whose trade exceeds a certain annual value. The threshold varies considerably from countryto country, but it is typically about € 100,000. As a consequence, although figures for tradebetween the EU and the rest of the world areaccurately represented, trade within the EU isgenerally underestimated.

EU Market SurveyThis survey profiles the EU market for “Fashionjewellery” in which six selected markets within the EU are highlighted. The countries selected for thissurvey are the United Kingdom, France, Italy, Germany,Spain and The Netherlands, which are the largestconsumers of fashion jewellery in the European Union.In 1999, they accounted for around 70% of total EUpurchases of fashion jewellery, with the UnitedKingdom taking the largest share, particularly forcostume jewellery. Italy is the largest consumer ofsilver jewellery and, along with France, sets worldwidetrends in fashion, although the United Kingdom,Germany and The Netherlands also have an influenceon fashion trends. Developing countries supplied 40%of total fashion jewellery imports (in value terms) tothese six countries.

All six selected countries within the EU have a fastgrowing number of career women, who have money tospend and who dress fashionably, keeping up with thelatest fashions. These countries also have a large multi-cultural population and their young people tend totravel to non-EU countries, where they are influencedby other cultures. Since 1997, the fashion jewellerymarket has grown in most of the selected countrieswithin the EU as changes in lifestyle, fashion and travelexperiences influence customer choice. Spain is aparticularly fast-growing market for fashion jewellery,which may offer opportunities for exporters fromdeveloping countries, especially those with which it hascolonial links and existing trade, such as Latin Americaand The Philippines.

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3 CONSUMPTION

3.1 Market size

European UnionThe EU is a leading world market for fashion jewellery,ranking second to the USA. Compared to other worldmarkets, demand throughout the EU is morefragmented. People in the warmer, southern Europeancountries tend to be more extravagant in their choice ofjewellery and buy more gold and bright colours thantheir counterparts in the cooler north, who prefer silverand less extrovert designs and colours.

Among younger Europeans, however, distinctionsbetween national markets in the high fashion segmentare far less obvious. They tend to be influenced byglobal trends, street fashion, “USA-style”, Hollywoodglamour, MTV, movies (e.g. Saturday Night Fever) andby special events such as the millennium. In addition,music styles (house, hiphop, Rap or R&B), pop idols(Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Destiny’s Child, RickyMartin), movie stars or popular actors in TV soaps have an enormous influence on young people. All arecapable of setting trends in clothing and jewellery.

In 1999, it was estimated that the 376 millionconsumers of the 15 member states of the EU spentaround US$ 6,197 million at retail prices on fashionjewellery, excluding hair ornaments. Of this total 49%,or US$ 3,034 million, was spent on costume jewellery,mainly in the United Kingdom, France and Germany.Around 51%, some US$ 3,163 million, was spent on

silver jewellery, including precious silver jewellery,mainly in Italy and Germany. Statistics do notdifferentiate between cheap and expensive silver andthis may give an overvaluation in the overall total of thefashion jewellery market. An overview of market sharesfor both product groups is given in figure 3.1.

There are no statistics available on the market value ofhair ornaments. Rough estimates from trade sourcesindicate total EU retail sales in 1999 of US$ 240-280million. Trade statistics in Chapter 5 give an impressionof the trade value and show a steady growth in importsof hair accessories within the selected EU countries.

EU market growth 1990 - 1999The differentiated EU fashion jewellery market isstrongly influenced by fashion and short term crazes. In the past few years, there has been a steady increasein demand. As a result of economic growth in mostcountries, the fashion jewellery sector seemed to bemore broadly defined, thereby gradually entering theprecious jewellery market. Along with changes infashion, materials like wood, cork, granite, rubber,beads, crystal, rhinestone or glass stones are now oftencombined with precious jewels and metals. Between 1994 and 1999, EU consumption of fashionjewellery increased by 27%, from US$ 5,087 million to 6,457 million, with a greater increase in the purchaseof costume jewellery than silver jewellery. In thatperiod retail sales of fashion jewellery grew in all theselected EU markets except Italy.

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Figure 3.1 EU retail sales of fashion jewellery, 1999 Value in US$ million

Costume jewellery Silver jewellery

Source: Euromonitor, Mintel, Novalis-Media, Société 5, VDSI, HBD (2001)

Others 36%

United Kingdom 16%

The Netherlands 5%

Italy 7%

3,034Germany 14%

France 16%

Spain 6%

Italy 29%

United Kingdom 16%

The Netherlands 2%

3,163

Germany 13%

France 16%

Spain 3%

Others 21%

Key stimulants of market growth were:

• An increase in the number of working women whocould afford to keep up with the latest fashion trendswho adopt an image of glamour, elegance andluxury. In order to express their sense of style, theyare willing to spend money on clothing, cosmeticsand matching jewellery items.

• Fashion jewellery became increasingly available innon-specialised retail outlets such as department andclothing stores, drugstores, supermarkets, opticalstores, gift shops, hairdressers or sports shops.Attractive displays, often near the cash desk,encouraged consumers to make impulse purchases.

• As fashion jewellery became more affordable andavailable, women began to buy jewellery forthemselves building up a collection of items, insteadof waiting for gifts.

• The revival of the 1970s and 1980s, with theirdistinctive styles in clothing and accessories,stimulated demand for low-to-medium pricedfashion jewellery.

• There was more demand for costume jewellery andsilver jewellery, reflecting the atmosphere of“contemporary clarity and freshness”, oftencombined with semi-precious stones.

• The popularity of body piercing, especially foryoung people, not only stimulated demand for silverjewellery, but also created a market for rings andchains to be worn on different parts of the body,such as toe or thumb rings, anklets, belly chains etc.

• Jewellery such as neck chains and bracelets becamepopular with boys and young men.

• The ultra-feminine and Bohemian “gipsy orcowboy” looks in fashion re-introduced wearingthree or more jewellery items such as necklaces orbracelets and this greatly increased sales of this typeof jewellery.

• Demand for fashion jewellery was positivelyaffected by the turn of the millennium, since peoplewanted to commemorate special events such asbirths or parties in 2000 and there was more demandfor jewellery with millennium related designs (e.g.logos, references, dates etc.).

• After a time of minimalism during the 1990s, necks,hands, wrists, ears and even mobile phones becameincreasingly adorned with jewellery as people beganto favour glitter, glamour, colour and clarity.

These factors contributed both to the creation of a greatervariety of jewellery items for a wide range of consumersand to a marked increase in sales volume. In the UK andItaly especially, the mid-1990s saw the value of salesdecrease despite the fact that the volume of items soldhad increased, because of the number of items whichwere sold at very low prices. As a result, the overallvalue of EU jewellery sales decreased because there wasan oversupply of cheap fashion jewellery and intense

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price competition created by large mass merchandiserswho were selling at extremely low prices.

Since 1997, the economic growth in most of theselected markets within the EU has led to an increaseddemand for designer jewellery, especially items madeof higher quality materials such as silver, titanium,semi-precious stones (cloudy or foggy inclusions),coloured rhinestones, glass, imitation pearls or beads.Women have also become more knowledgeable aboutbrands and these changes in demand have forcedmanufacturers to pay more attention to style and design.

Fashion jewellery versus precious jewelleryIn 1999, fashion jewellery represented 28%, or aroundUS$ 22,525 million, of all EU jewellery sales. This retailsales figure includes precious jewellery such as plain orgem-set gold and diamond jewellery, platinum and whitegold pieces. Fashion jewellery now represents aroundhalf of jewellery sales by volume in the EU as a whole.In France, the volume of costume jewellery represents70% of sales, while in other countries the volume ofcostume jewellery sold was around 45%. A comparisonin volume and value sales of each selected market isgiven in the next section. A comparison between thevalue of fashion jewellery (i.e. costume and silver items)and precious jewellery sold is given in Figure 3.2.

Further EU market growth of fashion jewelleryFor 2000, a growth of 4% in EU retail sales, with a totalvalue of US$ million 6,692, is expected. Driven by ahigher disposable income and continued lifestylemarketing by the fashion industry, women are nowfashion conscious for longer, so jewellery aimed atmature women is likely to increase in importance. Young people have more money to spend on jewellery,although teenagers increasingly make their ownjewellery. After 2000, the increase in sales is expected toslow, especially for silver jewellery. The future market islikely to become more fragmented, as different consumertarget groups will tend to look for unique pieces ofjewellery which express their style or personality. Here, good quality and keeping up-to- date with thelatest fashion trends will be important.

The key for exporters from developing countries wishingto enter the EU market is specialisation. Importers andretailers look for product innovations of unusual, as wellas traditional designs, which encourage them to broadentheir product ranges. However, each jewellery piece orcollection should match the clothing, fashion accessoriesand styles dictated by fashion in individual countries.Most importantly, the piece should be well finished,perfectly and exactly made according to importers’specifications and meet the quality requirements of thedemanding EU market.

United Kingdom

With total retail sales in 1999 of US$ 805 million,the United Kingdom is among the largest fashion jewellery markets in the EU. Costume jewellery formsthe largest part of this total, its share having increasedfrom 55% of fashion jewellery sales in 1990 to 61% in1999, mainly at the expense of silver jewellery sales(see figure 3.3). With a total population of 59 million in1999, the British were the biggest spenders on fashionjewellery in the EU, with a per capita expenditure ofUS$ 14. During the recession in the early 1990s,British women tended to switch from precious tofashion jewellery. In the later years, working womenand young people were more fashion-conscious andpreferred a more feminine look. Jewellery is stronglyfeatured on catwalks and in fashion magazines and isheavily promoted by seasonal themes. Costumejewellery and hair ornaments were sold at more non-specialised retail outlets (department and clothingstores) and were increasingly merchandised as animpulse item. The greater variety of products includedmore jewellery, which was imported at lower prices,because of the high Pound. In 1999, around 35 millionpieces, or 44% of the all jewellery sold in the UK werecostume jewellery, while silver jewellery volume salesaccounted for 13% of this total. In the same year, theretail sales value of costume jewellery amounted toUS$ 496, of which neckwear and earrings were themost popular items sold, followed by bracelets,brooches and rings, as shown in figure 3.4. The future

15

demand for fashion jewellery in the UK is expected togrow, with older working women likely to become animportant target group. Value sales will grow slightly,with design, brands and quality jewellery forming thebasis for a gradual move upmarket.

Figure 3.2 Retail sales of all jewellery in EU markets, 1999 Value in US$ million

Source: Euromonitor, Mintel, Novalis-Media, Société 5, VDSI, HBD (2001)

500 1,000 2,000 3,000 4,000 5,000 6,0000

* Notes: Precious silver jewellery is included in the silver jewellery segment. Hair ornaments are excluded.

Other EUcountries

4,385

The Netherlands758

Spain1,596

Germany3,482

United Kingdom3,308

France3,601

Italy5,395

Precious 2,848Silver 711Costume 826

Precious 452Silver 167Costume 135

Precious 1,180Silver 234Costume 182

Precious 2,555Silver 512Costume 415

Precious 2,510Silver 309Costume 489

Precious 2,812Silver 302Costume 487

Precious 4,640Silver 537Costume 218

Precious* jewellery

Silver jewellery

Costume jewellery

Figure 3.3 Trend of UK consumption fashion jewellery Value in US$ million 1990-2000

1,000

500

01990 1994 2000*

Source: Mintel, Euromonitor (2001)

Figure 3.4 UK consumption of costume jewellery by product As percent of retail sales value in US$ million. 1999

Costume Silver

Earrings 25%

Brooches 9%

Other* 9%

496

Rings 4%

Neckwear 40%

Braceletsbangles 13%

590633

55%45% 38%

62%

61%

1999

805

39%61%

841

38%62%

NOTE: *other incl. hair ornaments

NOTE: * forecast

France

In 1999, the value of total retail sales was US$ 789million, most of which was costume jewellery. As in theUK, the French spent more on fashion jewellery thanpreviously, with a per capita expenditure of US$ 13.Because of its long tradition in fashion and in themanufacturing of fashion accessories, France plays aleading role in the design of costume and silverjewellery. As is shown in figure 3.6, 69% of alljewellery items sold in France in 1999 were costumejewellery, which is high compared to other EUcountries. From 1994 onwards, the market has beenstimulated by an increase in the number of workingwomen. Although the value of this market growth hasbeen restrained by cheap imports and the rising lowcost items, which are increasingly sold throughhypermarkets. French working women are well awareof fashion, brands and prices and often shop aroundbefore buying. The economic growth since 1997,changes of life/music styles and new consumers forjewellery like children, boys and men, have all resultedin the steady growth of a more differentiated fashionjewellery market. Recently, French consumers havetended to look for unique items and this in turn has ledto a gradual shift to mid-range and high qualitycostume and silver jewellery from well-known brandsor couturiers.

Germany

Germany is the largest fashion jewellery market in theEU, with silver jewellery forming 55% of sales in 1999.In the same year, US$ 956 million was the total of retailsales of fashion jewellery, as is shown in figure 3.7.From 1994 onwards, retail sales showed a steadyoverall growth. Cheap imports of jewellery fromGerman-owned, low cost production companies inEastern Europe and Asia (India and Thailand) have putpressure on German retail prices. The popularity of thislow cost silver jewellery, especially among youngerGermans, has been at the expense of imported jewelleryfrom other EU countries and USA. As in the UK andFrance, there has been more emphasis on variety andfashion in jewellery items (for working women, men,boys and children). The German jewellery industry hasalso benefited from the millennium, when many peopletreated themselves to something new towards the end of1999. This demand, however, levelled off towards theend of the second quarter of 2000. Some further growth is expected but the market is likely to become more fragmented with demand for materialsof good quality (i.e. silver, artificial pearls, gemstones)and designer jewellery. As the German people tend tobe perfectionists, importers are conscious about qualityand look for good design, product finish and reliablesuppliers.

16

Figure 3.5 Trend of French consumption fashion jewellery Value in US$ million 1990-2000

1,000

500

0

Source: Euromonitor, BOCI, Societé 5 (2001)

Figure 3.6 French consumption of all jewellery in volume and value. As percent of total sales 1999

0% 100%

Costume

Value

Volume

Silver Precious*

NOTE: * forecast

69

14

14 17

9 77

1990 1994 2000*

660637

55%46% 44%

56%

1999

789

38%62%

809

38%62%

Figure 3.7 Trend of German consumption fashion jewellery Value in US$ million 1990-2000

1,000

500

0

Source: VDSI, Euromonitor (2001)

Figure 3.8 German consumption of all jewellery in volume and value. As percent of total sales 1999

0% 100%

Costume

Value

Volume

Silver Precious

NOTE: * forecast

46

12

2628

7315

1990 1994 2000*

821734

51%49% 52%

48%

1999

927

55%45%

956

55%45%

Italy

With retail sales of US$ 5,395 million in 1999 (seefigure 3.2), Italy is the largest market in the EU forjewellery in general, and plays a leading role in fashiondesign. The Italian gold and silver industry is the largestin the world in value terms. That year, retail sales offashion jewellery were US$ 755 million, of which silverjewellery accounted for 71%, as is shown in figure 3.9.As silver jewellery traditionally has been available inmany varieties and prices in Italy, this is being favouredby Italian women than costume jewellery. Italianpeople, most of whom are fashionable and have goodtaste, spent US$ 13 on fashion jewellery per capita. The Italian jewellery industry has suffered fromrecession in the 1990s. From 1994 onwards, however,sales of fashion jewellery increased steadily. Unlikeother EU countries, female emancipation has gonehand-in-hand with an increased use of cosmetics andfashion jewellery, which are now frequently worn byschoolgirls from the age of 13. The fashion jewellerymarket has also been stimulated by increased salesthrough department stores and clothing stores, whichhad not previously been significant outlets in Italy. Low cost and ethnic jewellery (from Asia or SouthAmerica), targeted at the low-cost and middle rangesegments, has increased the variety of items available.In the wealthier northern regions of Italy, extravagant,fashionable designer jewellery is more popular, while inthe southern regions people are more interested intraditional designs. More variety and better design in fashion jewellery items will positively affect thevolume of sales to Italy. Ethnic style bracelets made ingold and silver, decorated with fabrics, leather, colouredgemstones, bright glass or beads have recently made acomeback.

17

Spain

Although Spain is one of the larger countries of the EU,the Spanish are not big spenders on fashion jewellery,despite a steady market growth of 25% in the past 10 years(see figure 3.11). In 1999, the total retail sales of fashionjewellery was estimated to be around US$ 416 million.The recession of the early 1990s, had a serious effect onthe ability and willingness of Spanish consumers to buyjewellery and this resulted in a switch towards costumejewellery. Demand was driven by imports of low-costjewellery manufactured in Spanish-owned factories inSouth American countries and sold at low prices inhypermarkets and department stores. Fashion jewelleryrepresented 51% of jewellery items sold in Spain in 1999.In recent years, the Spanish economy has made goodprogress with large chain stores and shopping centresrapidly increasing in number throughout the whole country.There are serious regional differences in consumer tasteand demand between the north and south. On the otherhand, many Spanish women will buy a wide range ofjewellery. Traditionally, Spaniards prefer yellow goldjewellery, combined with bright, extravagant and colourfulclothing and accessories. But young Spaniards are veryfond of silver jewellery, combined with stones (turquoise,lapis lazuli, amber, imitation pearls and bright glass stones).As in other EU countries, people in Spain increasinglylook for well designed, exotic fashion jewellery items.

Figure 3.9 Trend of Italian consumption fashion jewellery Value in US$ million 1990-2000

1,000

500

0

Source: Euromonitor, NFA, Novalis-Media (2001)

Figure 3.10 Italian consumption of all jewellery in volume and value. As percent of total sales 1999

0% 100%

Costume

Value

Volume

Silver Precious

NOTE: * forecast

31

4

28 41

10 86

1990 1994 2000*

670

829

38%62%

70%30%

1999

755

71%29%

779

71%29%

Figure 3.11 Trend of Spanish consumption fashion jewellery Value in US$ million 1990-2000

500

250

0

Source: Euromonitor, Novalis-Media (2001)

Figure 3.12 Spanish consumption of all jewellery in volume and value. As percent of total sales 1999

0% 100%

Costume

Value

Volume

Silver Precious

NOTE: * forecast

51

11

2722

7415

1990 1994 2000*

382344

41%59% 58%

42%

1999

416

56%44%

432

56%44%

The Netherlands

The Netherlands is a large market for fashion jewellery,relative to the demographic size of the market. In 1999,the value of total consumption was US$ 306 million.After a period of slow growth during the recession inthe early 1990s, sales increased by 37% between 1994and 1999, as is shown in figure 3.13. Silver jewelleryhas become increasingly popular with Dutch workingwomen, teenagers and men. By 1999, silver jewelleryaccounted for 55% of the retail value of Dutch fashionjewellery sales. On the other hand, in volume terms,costume jewellery forms the largest part (46%) of allDutch jewellery sales, as is shown in figure 3.14.Economic growth, increased disposable income,lifestyle marketing and the increased sensitivity of theDutch to trends have all boosted spending on fashionjewellery. As in other EU countries, Dutch peoplepurchase jewellery when buying clothes or shop aroundto find the necklace or bracelet to wear with their newoutfit. Sales in The Netherlands through non-specialistoutlets have grown enormously and fashion jewelleryis now sold in drugstores, fashion stores, gift shops,supermarkets, optical stores, by mail order and theInternet. As individuality and elegance has becomemore important, women often look for a unique itemwhich will reflect their personality and style. The growing variety in both silver and costumejewellery has brought about new designs andcombinations of materials. For example, costumejewellery in which wood, cork, granite, leather, shellsare combined with crystal, glass stones, or withprecious jewels and metals.

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3.2 Market segmentation

Segmentation by product An indication of the relative importance (in valueterms) of each segment within the EU market is givenbelow. It is clear that there are some differencesbetween silver and costume jewellery:

Earrings comprise the major product segment withinfashion jewellery and in 1999 accounted for around40% of total EU volume sales of fashion jewellery.Silver earrings are still favoured most and come inmany variations, ranging from classic to ethnic or wildbohemian styles. Dangling or “drop” earrings arepopular in most of these styles and are often made ofsilver or gold (imitation or plated) combined with glassor stones. In disco and beach styles, hoops (Creoletype) are more common and these are often made ofgold (imitation or plated) or titanium.

Neckwear, because of its relatively higher price peritem, was the most important segment by value in totalEU fashion jewellery sales in 1999. Necklaces havebecome much more popular because of good designwhich has kept abreast of clothing styles. They havebecome more voluminous and the length of chains hasincreased somewhat, with the new length ending justbelow the bustline. Women now also tend to wearseveral necklaces of different lengths and materials,to change the look of their current outfit. Another reason for increased sales of neckwear hasbeen the growing popularity of neck chains amongmen, boys and children. Neck chains are often made ofheavy oxidised silver or metal, while cords or laceswith beads, wood or shells, sometimes combined withmetal are also popular.

Bracelets, brooches and rings are sizeable productsegments and are hard to quantify, as there are nofigures available for the selected EU markets apart fromthe United Kingdom, where a breakdown of costumejewellery retail sales by product is given in section 3.1(see figure 3.4).

Rank Costume jewellery Silver jewellery

1 Neck wear Earrings2 Earrings Rings3 Hair ornaments Neck wear4 Bracelets Piercings5 Rings Bracelets6 Piercings Brooches7 Brooches Other8 Other

Figure 3.13 Trend of Dutch consumption fashion jewellery Value in US$ million 1990-2000

500

250

0

Source: HBD, CBS (2001)

Figure 3.14 Dutch consumption of all jewellery in volume and value. As percent of total sales 1999

0% 100%

Costume

Value

Volume

Silver Precious

NOTE: * forecast

46

18

2628

5923

1990 1994 2000*

223207

51%49% 52%

48%

1999

306

55%45%

320

54%46%

Hair ornamentsThe retail market for hair ornaments includes decorativehair fashion accessories, such as hair clips, barrettes,pony-tailers, headbands, hair gems, hair springs andhair picks.

Women, teenagers and children, who tend to use hairornaments at a younger age, purchase in both segments.Recently, a wide range of hairstyles have becomeacceptable at work and in society. Women tend to prefer haircuts, styles and ornamentswhich give them a particular look which they can dothemselves, so they are willing to invest in hairaccessories which help them to achieve the result theywant quickly.

Frequent changes in hair fashion have resulted in ademand for more fashionable hair ornaments, with hairclips, barrettes, beaded hair strings and hair extensionsbeing the most popular. New designs in trendy coloursare displayed in supermarkets or drugstores, which havevastly increased sales of these items. Zenner (Germany)is a major brand in this segment throughout the selectedmarkets within the EU.

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More variety in fashion jewellery productsIn the past ten years, jewellery has become far morefashionable, with a greater variety of styles. The fashionfor multiple piercing in ears and other parts of the body(nose, eyebrows and navel, for example), especiallypractised by young people, has led to a greater varietyof products being introduced. These include anklebracelets, toe rings and belly chains. An overview of allproducts is given in Table 3.1.

Segmentation by product (quality/price)In terms of product quality, retail price level and relatedbrands, the market for fashion jewellery can be divided into three segments:• the upper-end market• middle-range market• lower-end marketThese segments naturally overlap each other, but it ispossible to identify the key characteristics whichdistinguish them. Figure 3.15 gives the main featuresof each segment and shows the expansion of the totalfashion jewellery market, along with the increaseddemand for higher quality jewellery from the middle-range and lower-end market segments.

Table 3.1 Product segments and their varieties

Segment VarietyNeckwear Chain (one or more), choker, necklace or collar, pendant, neck-wire (with feather), beaded neck-wire, neck-wire

with bullet.Bracelets Linked bracelet, bangle, spring-bangle, stretch bangle, beaded bracelet, ankle bracelet or anklet, long sized

bracelets, wrist bracelet (of leather).Rings Ring finger, middle finger, thumb, toe, nose rings, nose clips, belly rings.Earrings Roserings, ear studs, ear clips (button type), long earrings, dangling earrings, ear cuffs, hoops (Creole type).Brooches Brooches, hangers, stick pins.Cuff links Cuff links, studs, tie pins, tie clips.Hair ornaments Hair clips, pins, barrettes, hair gems, hair jewels, beaded hair strings, button snaps, hair springs, scrunchies,

headbands, pony tailers, hair extensions, feather ornaments, hair picks, curlers, hair tattoos, hair sticks and tiarasOther Belly chains, piercings, nail piercings, tattoos, temporary tattoos, body paint, bindis

Figure 3.15 Development of EU fashion jewellery market Major segments in terms of quality/price ratio

Source: ITC and trade estimations (2001)

• Excellent quality (perfect finish)• Retail prices: US$ 75 - 250 • Designer jewellery/exclusive• Brands are important

• Good quality (well-finished)• Retail prices: US$ 10 - 75 • Fashionable design• Brands are less important

• Low quality • Retail prices: up to US$ 10• Fancy, original design• Fast changing, fast moving

Upper-end market

Middle range market

Lower-end market

The upper-end marketThis segment includes high quality fashion jewellerywith the perfect finish of a well-known brand (e.g. Reminiscence, Christian Dior, Valentino or Yves Saint-Laurent). These high-quality items are madeby well-known designers who set the trends for thismarket segment, creating styles which are oftenreproduced in the other two segments. This jewellery ismainly purchased by working women of 25 years orolder and is normally worn on special occasions orwhen going out to the theatre or a party.

The jewellery is elegant, unique and expensive, withretail prices varying from US$ 75 - 250. Designs varyfrom traditional to modern and can be either discrete orsubstantial. These items may contain natural materialssuch as dried flowers, feathers, resin, silk, lace andleather, as well as crystal, blown glass, enamel, zirconand beads. In this segment, gold-plated (with 18 caratgold) jewellery, sometimes with matt finish, and silver-plated jewellery remain popular. Pearls and semi-precious stones are used fairly widely. This typeof jewellery is sold by a few specialised fashionjewellery shops, fashion boutiques, top departmentstores or at tax-free/gift shops. In recent years, theupper-end market segment has grown, as is shown infigure 3.15, since consumers from the middle-rangemarket have become interested in designer and brandedfashion jewellery.

The middle-range marketMiddle-range fashion jewellery is the largest segmentof the market and includes well-finished jewellery ofgood quality, which adapts to accompany the latestclothing styles. Designs look professional and original. Jewellery in thissegment is made in larger quantity than high qualityjewellery in the upper-end market. Retail prices varyfrom US$ 10 - 75. Consumers take note of brands, butthese are not necessarily crucial in their purchasingdecisions. Some well-known brands in this segment areMonet, Swarovski, Trifary, Majorica, Corocraft,Dyrberg-Kern, Nereides S.Oliver, Design Nadine, Petra,Pilgrim and own brands of department or fashion storessuch as Mexx, House of Fraser, Hennes & Mauritz,Esprit, Bibi (Diesel stores) and others.

In the middle-range market, the materials used to makethe jewellery vary from “naturals” (most often wood,leather, rubber) and beads to titanium, metal (oftencopper) and some are gold-plated. Coloured stones andimitation pearls are also used. Women of all ages buy inthis range, as do most men who wear jewellery items.

The lower-end marketThe lower-end of the market is dominated by fancy andfashionable jewellery of a lower quality, worn mainlyby children, teens and twenties. Designs are influenced

20

by street fashion, which is highly influenced by thelatest crazes in music (MTV), TV/film personalities,special events, millennium fever and the like. Becausecrazes come and go quickly, demand from this segmentis instant and inexpensive items are bought impulsivelyand in quantity. The jewellery is often extravagant indesign and, since the end of the 1990s, has includedvarious kinds of neckwear or bracelets in futuristicdesigns (“cyberspace”) with beads or gemstones. All sorts of combinations of material are possible wheremetal, silver or gold are mixed with bright, fresh orfluorescent colours.

Teenagers also tend to make their own bracelets orneckwear and buy beads, stones and other materials atfashion jewellery shops or street markets. In addition,tattoos (permanent and temporary) are becoming morepopular and are often combined with silver jewellery,to give a total style or look.

Most pieces are produced in large quantities incountries with low labour costs. They retail at less thanUS$ 15 and this type of jewellery is sold at fashionstores, department stores, variety stores, drugstores andstreet markets. As is shown in figure 3.15, people whonormally buy inexpensive jewellery are, from time totime, willing to pay a higher price for jewellery in themore expensive ranges.

Segmentation by user (age and sex)There are some differences in the quantity and qualityof items purchased by jewellery users in the selectedEU markets. In general, British, French, Spanish andDutch women prefer quantity and buy jewellery itemsfrequently, whereas German and Italian women preferto buy fewer pieces of higher quality.

In all the selected markets, teenagers and (working)women buy the most jewellery, as they want to keep up with the latest trends in fashion and considerjewellery as being complementary to their dress. The following table describes the user segments forfashion jewellery. When selecting a target group,exporters are recommended to define how theirspeciality could benefit one or more of these groups.

3.3 TrendsDemand trends in the selected markets within the EUhave been influenced not only by designs fromtrendsetting countries like France, Italy, UK and USA,but also by changing consumer habits and the strongeffects of short term crazes.

The influence of trends changes constantly and it hasbecome more and more difficult to relate fashion withclearly determined consumer groups with typical habitswhen buying jewellery. Fashion trends seem to berelated to the different occasions on which jewellery is

worn, or the mood of the person wearing it. The modernwoman no longer falls into the categories “casual”,“beach/ethnic” or “classic”. She wants to play any ofthese roles - or to merge them. For example, a workingwoman may buy silver jewellery to wear in the office,hip jewellery with beads to wear on the beach, or aclassic necklace with semi-precious stones to wearwhen dining out.

In addition, the life cycle of popular jewellery itemstends to be shorter. Driven by the speed of the 24-houreconomy, items which are “hot” for trend-setters today,may be “out” soon afterwards. Trends for silverjewellery do, however, move more slowly than thosefor costume jewellery.

Trends arising from changing consumer habitsIndividuality: Consumers want to be distinctive fromothers by being original and developing their own taste.Clothing and jewellery express their lifestyle, whichcan vary according to their circumstances.

21

Combinations: Boundaries between styles have becomemuch more vague. Anything goes - from romantic tofuturistic, from ethnic to classical and anything inbetween. Materials like metals, stones, glass, bones,shells and leather are now often combined. Colours aremingled and combinations of jewellery with functions(e.g. phone, light, wallet) are becoming popular.

More fashion and glamour: Working women, whohave more money to spend, tend to look for highquality jewellery – a trend which is followed by otherconsumer groups. Since 1995, the mood has tended tobe a bit less sober and more glamorous, with prettysilver jewellery with softer, rounder shapes making areturn and heavy items in silver with matt finish tendingto be more popular. The younger generation arecurrently reviving the 1980s, where elegance and glitterare important. People like to show their jewellery toothers and neckwear or bracelets are more voluminousthan before.

Group Main characteristics

Children Girls, in particular, now wear more fancy, fashionable, jewellery at a younger age than previously.(4-8 years) They like fancy or fluorescent coloured neckwear and bracelets with prints (of cartoons or TV

stars) and although the child may choose what to buy, their mother normally buys it.

Teenagers Trendy appearance at school is very important for this group, who also spend more money if they(9-18 years) have part-time jobs outside school hours. They are highly influenced by media (music, soap series

from USA) and prefer trendy jewellery, especially neckwear of imitation gold or neck chains withbeads, feathers or fantasy prints. They also buy many hair ornaments.

Working women This group frequently buy jewellery to complete the look of their new or current outfit. Because(20-45 years) they work full- or part-time and have money to spend they tend to take more interest in their

personal appearance and are likely to buy jewellery for themselves. Younger working women, whomay not have the necessary resources to buy high quality or branded jewellery, choose unique ordistinctive pieces of classical, modern or extreme design.

Housewives They buy a wide range of jewellery, which can either be from cheap or expensive ranges. Younger(20-65 years) housewives tend to follow trends and prefer to buy their own jewellery at discounted prices. They

do not mind much if the piece bought is a copy of designer jewellery. They traditionally buyearrings and bracelets and classically-styled pieces manufactured from silver remain popular.

Men Street fashion: Stimulated by the latest trends in fashion, by music styles and by popular actors,(15-50 years) wearing jewellery has become more accepted by men and boys. Popular pieces are: leather string

with a pendant, heavy oxidised silver or gold neckchains, cigar band rings, bracelets, earrings,piercings, tattoos and belt buckles.Sophisticated fashion: this refers to the more traditional men’s jewellery like tie clips, cuff links,belt buckles or bracelets, rings and chains made of silver or gold.

Ethnic groups This group incorporates many different nationalities with distinctive styles and tastes in jewellery(4-65 years) which is often sold through specialised ethnic shops and other craft and gift outlets. They form an

interesting target group for exporters. The UK is also home to people from India, Bangladesh andPakistan; France houses nationals from Central and West African countries; Germany housespeople from Turkey and Morocco; The Netherlands houses people from Surinam, Indonesia,Turkey, Morocco, Former Yugoslavia, Iraq, Somalia and Iran.

Older people A fast growing group in almost all EU countries, considering the ageing population structure.(65+ years) New jewellery should be of a good quality, where silver or natural materials (wood, shells, horn,

bone, terracotta etc.) are more frequently being preferred. Designs of bracelets, necklaces orbrooches should be somewhere between classical and fashionable.

Semi-precious stones, pearls, crystal and glass havemade their return, most of which are in “fresh” colourse.g. light or ocean blue, turquoise, light green, pink,yellow. Some of the semi-precious stones include lemon,smoky and rice quartz, milky aquamarine, amethyst,rose tourmaline, zircon, freshwater pearl, moonstone ordarker stones like garnet, agate, lapis lazuli etc.

Luxury jewellery, classic style: Here people strive forluxury which reflects comfort and good manners. Injewellery this is reflected in a come-back of the kind ofluxury jewellery worn by Audrey Hepburn in the movieBreakfast at Tiffany’s, with “princess” style pieces,where zircons and paste pretend to be diamonds.

Ethnic jewellery: The popularity of ethnic jewellery hasbeen stimulated by a growing ethnic minority populationin the selected countries. Ethnic jewellery has alsobecome popular because of an increasing number ofpeople travelling to exotic locations and buying jewellery,either as a souvenir in the country itself while on holidayor after they have returned home.

Spiritualism, symbolism and zodiac signs: Consumerstoday are frequently searching for a deeper meaning tolife, whether through religion, astrology, tribalism orforeign cultures. This is reflected in the newsignificance of body piercing and painting, the strongimpact of different ethnic African and Asian culturesand in designs of the latest fashions in jewellery.

Multiples of jewellery items worn together: Women haverecently started wearing several necklaces in differentlengths and materials together, while an assortment ofbracelets are often worn on one or both arms.

Trends driven by crazes, events, movies and the like.Popular crazes in costume jewellery, instigated by the(temporary) explosive popularity of televisionpersonalities, pop stars, clothes designers, sportsmen,cartoon characters and local or international events orcauses, have a very strong influence on sales of specificitems, particularly those purchased by young people.

22

Leading importer-wholesalers in the market stimulateand react to demand, combining their close relationshipwith local trade and the consumer by working withinnovative and efficient suppliers who can react quicklyto plans and ideas for new jewellery items.

Trends reflecting from seasonal fashionThe development of fashion in costume and silverjewellery follows that of the clothing sector veryclosely. Trend forecasts in clothing come from theleading European fashion houses in London, Paris,Milan and Düsseldorf and from manufacturers whointroduce new fabrics and colours at the major fairs inParis (Prêt a Porter) and Frankfurt (Interstoff). Theselaunches take place two years before the season in orderto give designers time to create new lines, which arethen sold through their outlets. If new lines prove to besuccessful, the fabric is ordered and production inlarger quantity follows.

The main fashion trends forecast for costume and silverjewellery are presented twice a year in a Trend Book bythe influential Institut Balear de Disseny. Its prognosesare based on the combined opinions of a selected groupof internationally recognised experts (designers,journalists and manufacturers). The Trend Book alsospecifies the colours which will dominate jewellery andaccessory fashion for the coming season, alwaysaccording to the Pantone colour coding system, whichshould be strictly observed by manufacturers andsuppliers. In the Trend Book of the winter season2001/2002, six main themes with different looks in termsof jewellery designs are presented. The same applies tothe Trend Book of the summer season 2002. (See below).

The Trend Book provides very useful drawings andphotographs of each theme, with related jewellerydesigns and styling. Each theme has many differentlooks and a few examples are shown on the followingpages. These examples only give an idea of theatmosphere of each style and exporters arerecommended not to copy the products shown, sincethere are many variations in products for each style.

Season Themes Style indication

WINTER 2001/2002 1. Be Chic City/Classic style2. Be Happy Disco/Punk style3. Be Seductive Romantic style4. Be Beautiful Bohemian/Ethnic style5. Be Brave Casual/Natural style6. Be Witty City style

SUMMER 2002 1. Play - Happy innocence Romantic style2. Adventure - Exciting beauty Bohemian/Punk style3. Seduction - Elegance and glamour City/Classic style4. Curiosity - Sophisticated tradition Ethnic style5. Recovery - Sensual enjoyment Natural/Romantic style6. Fun - Sporty elegant City/Disco style

1. Be Chic(City/Classic style)

A continuation of the ultra-feminine look of the late1990s and characterised by elegance and retro trends ofthe 1920s and 1960s.

Pearls extend their colour range and can be rosy orpastel tones, sometimes threaded with casual cords orribbons. Necklaces are knotted with loose braidedstrands; (plastic) beads are popular here. Bracelets areinlaid with faux coloured stones. Enamel brooches arein geometric shapes with rounded edges.

2. Be Happy(Disco/Punk style)

An extravagant style with a revival of the 1970s and1980s, where minimalism is being replaced bydecoration and baroque.

Jewellery is abundantly decorated with feathers,beads and dark stones and also may be multi-functional(e.g. small wallet). Straps are worn around the neckwith rings, buckles, studs or micro beads. Neckwearcan be made with roses of black leather or of exoticflowers formed from silver glitter.

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WINTER 2001/2002

3. Be Seductive(Romantic style)

A fresh and natural style in which wild flowers andorchids are used in design of jewellery.The romantic style is conveyed by cleanliness, the useof natural material (e.g. raffia), flowers in rose and lilactones and by prints in designs.

The picture shows the return of small flower embroideryon ethereal fabrics, mesh or lace. The mesh can bemade of a mixture of multi-coloured thread or of elastictulle.

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4. Be Beautiful(Bohemian/Ethic style)

A sophisticated in which natural fabrics are used tokeep warm in winter. This folk look is very colourfuland uses much handicraft work with much influences ofRussia, Ukraine and the Balcans.

Multi coloured mini beads and large coloured stones(e.g. turquose, coral) are used. Bracelets are edged infur and fastened with buckles. In neckwear, naturalleather is often used.

WINTER 2001/2002

5. Be Brave(Casual/Natural style)

A reactive trend to the cold technology and syntheticfibres of the new millennium. People are searching forthe real truth in history.

In the middle ages, jewellery was meant for protection.Current designs are more perfect. Copper and rustypatinas are combined with inworked leathers or with feltand wool. Rings are heavy with motives of animal headsor symbols from ancient civilisations. Neckwear is largeand voluminous.

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6. Be Witty(City style)

A provocative style, where people want to be differentand are inspired by industrial designs of the 1920s,1960s and by the Russian rich.

In bracelets small geometric shapes (triangles, squaresand circles) are stitched on elastic wristbands.Necklaces are decorated with enamaled pieces ofstones, which ook like sweets. Materials like plastic,resin and vinyl are used in items. Rings have veryobvious central motifs.

WINTER 2001/2002

1. Play - Happy innocence(Romantic style)

A trend with a pure soul, which combines theromanticism of naïve thinking with the inner meaningof beauty.

Jewellery items are romantic and designed anddecorated with roses or other flower in red, pink,caramel, crème or soft pastels. In the “ballerina look”the neck is wrapped in crêpe and chokers arelightweight. Much neckwear is made of etherealmaterials, often combined with straps, ribbons andlaces.

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2. Adventure - Exiting beauty(Bohemian/Punk style)

A colourful, hedonistic lifestyle. People escape fromdaily life and dream of tropical forests and are eager toface each time a new adventure.

In most jewellery everything must be extreme (design,material, colour) but at the same time it shouls beharmonious and elegant.In bracelets and wristbands, glass beads, darker stones,crosses, animal shapes, safety pins, buckles, studes andother metallic touches (rusty or coppery) are used.

SUMMER 2002

3. Seduction - Elegance and glamour(City/Classic style)

A trend which reflects the glamorous and chic world ofHollywood or Cannes and cocktail parties. People striveto “mix with the rich and famous”, forgetting abouttheir daily stress.

In this world of the “Golden Girls”, neck chains are large and abundantly decorated with pearls andsemi-precious or glass stones in many pastel colours. A mixture of the “vamp”-style of the 1950s, but withthe cool touch of the 1980s. Most items are fromimitation gold, platinum or bronze and are always shiny.

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4. Curiosity - Sophisticated and tradition(Ethnic style)

A new concept combining handicrafts and elegance.Ancient techniques from Africa like primitive art,and rough precious stones are combined with theatmosphere of the rich in the colonial past.

The elegance is reflected in designs and colours like cocoa,henna clay and terracotta tones. In designs traditionalpatterns have a contemporary touch. In neckwear, forexample, minerals are cut in sections, showing theirnatural lines, and are combined with metals, bones, hempor suede. Wood is combined with precious stones or beads.

SUMMER 2002

5. Recovery - Sensual enjoyment(Natural/Romantic style)

Nature is expected to be an important issue and will bein fashion in its real, but strangely also in artificial form.

Garden elements, such as flowers are in synthetic formintegrated in designs. Materials range from artificials(translucid latex, perpex, dyed in bright colours) tonaturals (linen, hemp, jute, raffia and denim), combinedwith metallic shavings.Necklaces can be of plastic ribbons with colourful printswith squares, dots, flowers or butterflies.Medals or amulets have motives of various insects.

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6. Fun - Sporty elegance(City/Disco style)

A sporty style with old images of the olympic games.Designs are inspired by sports ergonomics, mixedcolours and metallic touches.

Sportswear is mixed with chic jewellery which are onthe border of kitsch. Ribbons or brooches are often dyedin three colour stripes (red, white and blue). All iconsfrom the sports world like metal, identity tabs, wristbandsand buckles are reinterpreted for the jewellery world.New materials include neoprene, titanium, rubber,teflon, leather, denim with waterproof finishes.

SUMMER 2002

Seasonal trends for fashion jewellery can be also foundin the Gold Trends book, which is published by theWorld Gold Council. Other sources of inspiration areaccessory magazines (Accessori Magazine), fashionmagazines such as Vogue, Gioiello, Marie Claire, Elle,Vogue, Donna and similar publications, Internet sites,popular soap series on TV and videoclips on MTV.Silver jewellery trends, which do not change as quicklyas those of costume jewellery, can be found in someAmerican magazines like JCK Magazine, AccentMagazine and Ornament. Addresses of IDI Balear TrendBook, World Gold Council, the relevant magazines andInternet sites can be found in Appendix 6.

Tips before reading fashion forecastThere is a great deal of information available on trendsand fashion forecasts, but exporters from developingcountries may find it difficult to translate them intoproducts; it is recommended that exporters consider thefollowing before manufacturing (new) jewelleryproducts:

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3.4 Consumption patterns

DemographyThe size and age structure of the population and, moresignificantly, the number and life style of householdsare basic determinants of how much will be spent onjewellery. The middle and northern EU countries havemore small and single households. Here consumers tendto buy fashion jewellery impulsively, in combinationwith clothing. In southern EU countries individualmembers of the family unit live together longer andconsumers generally buy more expensive jewellery forspecial occasions or as an investment for the future.

Socio-economic factorsSince the late 1990s, positive economic growth, risingemployment and greater consumer confidence havestimulated a new buoyancy in jewellery sales. Labourmarkets are more flexible and both temporary and parttime work is on the increase, while state services arebeing privatised. There is much more pressure on

Define your consumer target group → This can be done in terms of product (quality/price) or by user characteristics(see section 3.2).

Define your speciality → - Your original or artistic designs (see Chapter 9).- Your technical speciality or special skills.- Your use of materials or your material mix.- Your capability and work efficiency, so that you are able to offer the best export

prices and provide quick delivery and good service.- A combination of the above specialities.

Fashion for different occasions → Fashion forecasts refer to the new fashions for different occasions and are notnecessarily related to a particular consumer target group.

Forecast from previous results → Fashion forecasts are usually the result of earlier forecasts, which are combinedwith the retail sales of the previous season.

Colours are important → Colours are especially important for costume jewellery. Though the colours givenin the forecast refer to ready-to-wear clothing, where colours must fashionaccessories should complement be in harmony with people’s (existing) outfits.Colours should be described accurately, by using the Pantone colour codingsystem. Avoid describing colours in indefinite terms such as “reddish blue” or“greenish yellow”.

Forecasts are overstated → Forecasts give an indication of which ideas may be translated into commercialproducts in terms of design and size. Fashion forecasts should be used as a sourceof inspiration for future products.

Thinking in terms of concepts → When creating new products, you should present a “product concept” and offer aseries of products such as necklaces, bracelets etc., which fit the concept youhave chosen: (e.g. beach style, special technique). Most buyers prefer to make aselection from different products, within an idea or concept.

people to manage their own lives. Personal appearanceis important to these “flexible workers”, and this hasresulted in an increase in demand for fashionableclothing and jewellery.

Quality/priceMore wealth will bring more demanding consumerswho expect the best price, quality and service and willnot accept the old trade-offs. They will not toleratebadly finished jewellery, items which fall apart after afew weeks because of bad fittings or jewellery itemswhich are made of defective materials which deterioratequickly. In most of the selected EU countriesconsumers are critical and expect “value for money”.Working women and teenagers are more knowledgeablebecause they are exposed to wider ranges of jewellerysold at more retail outlets, by mail order, Internet andtelesales.

Promotion and presentationAlthough the fashion jewellery chosen by consumers ismore a matter of individual choice and taste, they areheavily influenced in their style and purchase of itemsby different sorts of promotion, such as:• Media: glossy magazines, women’ s magazines,

duty free/in flight magazines etc. in which famousactresses and media personalities are used topromote a brand. For young people, key mediainfluences include MTV, teleshopping, soap series,advertising in teenage, young women ‘s and popmagazines.

• Retail outlets: e.g. clothing stores, fashionboutiques or department stores which promotespecific jewellery ranges to complement (seasonal)fashion clothing.

• Shop display systems and in-store promotions in,for example, department stores or drug stores,accompanied by good leaflet/catalogue information.Consumers from both the upper-end and middle-range segments increasingly want to be wellinformed by sales staff.

• Social surroundings: clothing and fashion arefrequent topics of conversation. The ideas andexperiences of family, friends and neighbours canaffect the choice of jewellery and where it ispurchased.

For the promotion of fashion jewellery from thewholesale level to the retail trade, it is important to beaware of the key role played by international trade fairson which more information is given in Chapter 1.7.1. ofthe EU Strategic Marketing Guide ‘Fashion jewellery’(2000).

BrandsFor consumers buying in the middle-range and upper-end consumer segments, designer fashionjewellery items are becoming increasingly important.

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For the young, a brand name is strongly associated withthe group to which they want to belong and represents adefined personality and status level. Brands can bebroadly divided into A brands, (designer or establishedmultinational brands) and private labels, which are theretailers’ own brands. Some common brands for fashionjewellery are shown below:

Brand name Country of origin

Vogue FranceNature FranceAgatha FranceClio Blue FranceStern FranceNereides FranceBabylone FranceYves Saint Laurent* FranceReminiscence* FrancePetra GermanyIndiana Schmuck GermanyDaniel Hechter GermanySwarovski AustriaByoux Cacio ItalyGiovanni ItalyValentino* ItalyGivenchy USAMonet USATrifary USA1928 USAMikey United KingdomEvita Peroni United KingdomPave United Kingdom Alpha Jewels United Kingdom Anat Collection IsraelMichal Negrin IsraelDavid Grau SpainMajorica SpainAgatha Ruiz SpainViva NetherlandsOtazu NetherlandsBulatti NetherlandsDyrberg Kern DenmarkOthmer DenmarkPilgrim DenmarkKalevala Koru FinlandChristalina Thailand

Note: * upper-end market

Environment/healthEnvironmental friendliness has become important in thepurchasing decisions made by consumers in mostnorthern EU markets. Awareness and concern on thepart of consumers is increasing and is reflected in theirpurchasing behaviour: nickel, for example, must not be

present in jewellery because it can cause allergies;consumers are more and more reluctant to buy productsif they know that non-sustainable resources are beingundermined, if endangered species like snakes, ivory,tiger skins and other listed items are being illegallyused, or if child labour has been used in manufacturing.

SeasonalityThe market for fashion jewellery follows that ofclothing fashion very closely in the sense that there aretwo major seasons, autumn/winter and spring/summer.Typically many companies also make mid-seasonadditions and adjustments to their collections,particularly for the period leading up to Christmas,which is a very important selling time for consumers inall EU countries (both for the buying of gifts and ofspecial jewellery to accessorise festive party clothing).

Another seasonal distinction in fashion jewellery is interms of “summer items” and “winter items”. Summer items are often lower in price and arepurchased impulsively to be used for a shorter period oftime. Winter items are meant to last longer andconsumers are willing to pay a higher price. Consumersusually spend more money on winter clothing becausein most of the selected EU countries winter lasts muchlonger than summer. The main seasonal differences areshown below:

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Summer items Winter items(smaller then winter items)

→ Short necklaces → Long chains (with pendants)→ Chokers → Brooches→ Earrings → Larger clip-on earrings→ Bracelets → Hanging earrings→ Belly chains and anklets → Rings→ Rings

4 PRODUCTION

EU production of fashion jewellery is now concentratedmainly in Italy, France, Germany, Spain and the UnitedKingdom. Most EU manufacturers are now smallcompanies, typically with between 2 and 10 employees,which specialise in good quality and exclusive designs.In addition to these specialist manufacturers, manyimporters have small facilities to assemble and packshort-term orders and limited ranges of jewellery itemsand to respond to sudden demand for special items.Production figures of hair ornaments, which are mostlycontracted out by German and French suppliers toChinese or Taiwanese manufacturers, are not available.

Italy

Italy has a long tradition in the gold and silver jewelleryindustry and, is estimated to be the largest manufacturerin the world in terms of product value. According to theWorld Gold Council, around 60% of jewellery made inItaly is manufactured, with the remainder beingproduced by artisans or craftsmen, employed mainly infamily-owned businesses. The fragmentation of demandis such that small production runs are common. For silver jewellery, Lombardy is the major productionarea. In the mid 1990s, Italian production was adverselyaffected by a combination of price increases forprecious metals, devaluation of the lira and competitionfrom low-cost jewellery produced in Asia and LatinAmerica. Despite this, between 1997 and 1999 Italianproduction of silver jewellery increased from 938 to1,142 tonnes. According to the Silver Institute, theproduction value of silver jewellery was estimated to bearound US$ 628 million in 1999.

France

France is a very large EU manufacturer of costumejewellery, with some 350 small companiesmanufacturing costume jewellery and hair ornamentsfor distribution through Paris. Around 85 companies arelocated in Lyon, which is the major production centrefor costume jewellery. In 1999, the production value ofcostume jewellery made in France was estimated to bearound US$ 140 million. Most manufacturers are smallcompanies with less than 10 employees, who produceinnovative designs to match the latest fashion trends inclothing for the middle range and upper-end segmentsof the market. In 1999, France produced around 88 tonnes of silver jewellery and silverware.

Germany

Most German jewellery manufacturers can be found inthe area of Kaufbeuren (South), Pforzheim and IdarOberstein. In 1999, there were some 130 factories withmore than 20 employees making fashion jewellery,with an output value estimated by the VDSI (GermanFederation of jewellery and silverware) at US$ 122 million

and an output value for silver jewellery of around US$ 114 million. Germany has been one of the mainEU countries to shifts its production to low-costmanufacturing countries in Asia and Eastern Europe.

Spain

Like Italy, Spain has a centuries old tradition ofjewellery manufacturing, but in terms of output, thisdoes not represent a significant national industry. The Spanish jewellery industry has also suffered greatlyfrom import competition in the last ten years.According to the World Silver Institute, Spanishproduction decreased from 132 to 117 tonnes (includingproduction volume of silverware), between 1997 and1999. Spanish manufacturers of fashion jewellery,especially a sizeable group in the Balearic Isles, havedeveloped a strong brand image for Spanish-madesilver and imitation jewellery in the last few years.About 120 Spanish jewellery manufacturers are ofsignificant size. Jewellery from Mallorca now has anestablished place in the very important market segmentsof tourist sales and tax-free outlets.

United Kingdom

The British jewellery manufacturing industry alsoreduced in size during the last decade in the face of thevery strong competition from imports both from lowcost countries and from Italy. However, in addition tofine jewellery manufacturers, there is a good core groupof British costume jewellery manufacturers, whopromote ranges of products for the better quality marketand special niche sectors. British importers anddepartment stores such as Marks & Spencer havestarted to manufacture or assemble jewellery fromimported parts, in co-operation with well-knowndesigners. A high proportion of this output is destinedfor the home market and the jewellery which isexported goes primarily to EU markets. Between 1997and 1999, the volume of silver jewellery outputdecreased slightly from 103 to 100 tonnes, mainly as aresult of the high exchange rate of the UK pound.

The Netherlands

The Netherlands has a very small manufacturingindustry for silver and costume jewellery. Independentdesigners and jewellery makers are quite numerous butthe scale of their production is very small. There areonly about five manufacturers of silver jewellery withmore than 20 employees and these companies mainlyproduce hallmarked silver items. Local production ofcostume jewellery is equally small, with most factoriesmaking exclusive series of more expensive jewellery.Some importing firms also carry out limited assemblyand packing of cheaper jewellery to fill short-termorders and to satisfy the demand for temporary crazes.

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Largest EU manufacturersAs is shown in table 4.1, the Groupe GL with theirdivision Bijoux GL took a leading position in fashionjewellery manufacturing in the selected five EUcountries.

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ability to produce jewellery cheaply because ofextremely low labour costs, to more sophisticateddesigns and production processes which now enablethem to compete very successfully at all quality levels.Modern methods of communication, travel and theflexibility of their production methods has enabledthem to react relatively quickly to changes in fashionand consumer demand. To face this growingcompetition, EU companies concentrate on top qualitydesign and fashion brands for which price is not soimportant. Others survived Asian competition byestablishing a strong brand image in a particular nichesegment like tax-free sales.

Outsourced manufacturingIn the middle range segment, EU importers, fashionhouses and (ex-) manufacturers began to co-operatewith Asian manufacturers (e.g. China, Thailand,South Korea, Taiwan, India, Philippines) which enabled them to supply their EU markets with fashionablejewellery which was relatively low in price but goodvalue for money.

Table 4.1 Top 10 largest manufacturers of fashion jewellery in the EU, 1999

Manufacturer Country Types of jewellery

Groupe GL (Bijoux GL) France Silver/Costume jewelleryZettl Germany Costume jewelleryBijoux Cascio Srl Italy Costume jewelleryModern Creation Germany Costume jewellerySchofer Germany Silver jewellery (neck chains)Trenel SA France Silver jewellery (rings)Unno A Erre SpA Italy Costume and silver jewelleryL’ Oromeccanica SpA Italy Silver jewelleryAttwood & Sawyer United Kingdom Costume jewelleryDavid Grau Germany, Spain Costume jewelleryAfra Europa SL Spain Costume jewellery

Source: Euromonitor, Global Industry Analysts, Europa Star (2000/2001)

Groupe GL - brief profileCompany was founded in 1917. In 2000, they employed1,200 people and had a sales turnover of US$ 90 millionof which 30% was exported. Recently they make moresilver jewellery, combined with original semi-preciousstones (cloudy or foggy inclusions). In their latestdesigns, classic and baroque styles are linked withcontemporary clarity. They mainly produce in France or abroad under theirown brands, e.g. Altesse, Presence, Mondial Bijoux,Tizzia, or under marketing licences for prestige brandjewellery like Yves Saint Laurent, Ted Lapidus, Chipieand Christian Lacroix. Product assortments are large,the Christian Lacroix collection, for example, includes 52 models, available in sterling silver and gold plating(18 carats). See also http://www.groupe-gl.com

In general, the EU jewellery industry has changed inthe last decade and the strategy of manufacturers is tospecialise by adding new products or accessories whichcomplement their own products and in so doing createopportunities for new suppliers or partners, who couldbe exporters in developing countries.

Competition from AsiaFashion jewellery manufacturing used to be animportant industry in most of the selected EU countriesbut production has declined drastically because ofintense competition from Asia (e.g. China, Thailand,South Korea and India). Manufacturers in Asia havemoved from their initial strength, which lay in their

5 IMPORTS

Trade statistics from Eurostat are compiled frominformation supplied by Customs and EU companies ona voluntarily basis. Customs registers all transactionswithin the EU of more than US$ 106,000 (€ 100,000)as well as all transactions from non-EU sources (seealso Chapter 2). This implies that within the EU thereare still many unregistered transactions made by smallercompanies, which are not represented in these statistics.Therefore, these statistics must be treated with extremecaution and are only intended to give an indication oftrends and of the relative importance of individualimporting countries. With regard to silver jewellery,it should be noted that precious silver jewellery is alsoincluded here. Trade statistics do not differentiatebetween cheap and expensive silver, which results in anovervaluation in the total imports and exports of fashionjewellery.

The statistics specify total imports, divided intovolumes/values sourced from non-EU countries (extra-EU) with the values/volumes coming fromdeveloping countries (dev.countries). Developingcountries, as defined by the OECD, are listed inAppendix 9. Appendix 1 lists import statistics of the EUand the selected markets within the EU and givesdetailed breakdowns of the statistics by product groupand by supplying country. In these statistics the valuesfor dates after 1 January 1999 are also expressed in €.

5.1 Total imports

Total imports by the EUThe EU is among the leading importers of fashionjewellery in the world and, in 1999, accounted for41,669 tonnes with a value of US$ 1,302 million.Between 1997 and 1999, total EU imports increased by83% in volume and 28% in value. Statistics indicatedfalling values for EU imports, resulting from the lowerprices of most items, related to the intense pricecompetition created by large mass merchandisers.

Germany is the largest EU importer, accounting foraround one quarter of total imports: 5,165 tonnes,with a value of US$ 330 million, in 1999. In terms ofvolume, the United Kingdom was athe largest EUimporter: 13,830 tonnes, valued at US$ 248 million,or 19% of the total EU imports by value. The UnitedKingdom is followed by the France (15% of EUimports by value in 1999), Italy (8%), Austria (7%),Spain (6%) and The Netherlands (5%). An overview ofthe imports, in 1998, of the selected markets within theEU areBetween 1997 and 1999, all countries in the EU,increased their imports of fashion jewellery (both involume and value terms) as is shown in table 5.1. The tendencies in the same period in imports of eachselected country (by product group) are given inAppendix 1.

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Table 5.1 EU imports of fashion jewellery by EU country, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 1,013,842 22,776 1,151,737 36,155 1,302,335 1,228,618 41,669Germany 201,833 3,751 281,005 4,255 330,262 311,568 5,165United Kingdom 231,224 5,794 226,908 11,911 248,467 234,403 13,830France 155,985 3,176 178,776 3,892 195,610 184,538 4,176Italy 73,899 1,293 80,404 1,595 98,183 92,625 2,230Austria 69,672 1,036 77,997 1,032 86,246 81,364 1,078Spain 57,429 2,282 69,802 7,035 73,432 69,275 3,353Netherlands 54,395 1,550 52,806 2,120 64,716 61,053 2,106Belgium & Luxembourg 40,715 1,317 42,792 1,223 50,887 48,007 1,591Sweden 34,457 615 30,208 625 35,611 33,595 622Denmark 24,931 312 29,556 411 32,219 30,395 500Greece 24,241 497 28,792 613 29,681 28,001 890Portugal 18,466 506 21,850 548 22,824 21,532 525Ireland 15,238 355 19,447 602 21,999 20,754 623Finland 11,360 292 11,408 293 12,207 11,516 280

Source: Eurostat (2001)

The sources of fashion jewellery can changeconsiderably from year to year according to the type ofjewellery in vogue and where key producers of thosetypes are located. Moreover, the levels of stock held byimporters/manufacturers in their EU warehouses varygreatly from period to period.

In 1999, around 40% of EU imports by value camefrom other EU countries. The leading supplier wasItaly, with 3,773 tonnes, valued at US$ 101 million,or 8% of total fashion jewellery supplies to the EU,which was mainly silver jewellery. Imports of mainlycrystal jewellery from Austria have more than tripledbetween 1997 and 1999, reaching a volume of 1,061 tonnes, valued at US$ 122 million. Austria wasfollowed in significance by Germany, which accountedfor 6% of supplies (in terms of value) to the EU in1999. EU imports of silver jewellery from Italy andGermany, showed a steady increase between 1997 and1999. In the past few years, trends in Europe indicate asubstantial drop in trade of costume jewellery within thearea, with strong growth in the flows to and from Asia.

In 1999, almost 60% of the value of EU imports camefrom non-EU sources. Since the early 1990s, Asiancountries have expanded their exports to the EU very

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rapidly. Strong demand for low priced jewellery, hugeinvestments in technical and design expertise from EUmanufacturers (mainly German), and bettercommunication, have stimulated this expansion.Between 1997 and 1999, the value increases of EUimports from the major supplying countries in Asiaaveraged around 40%, with the largest increases inimports from China (67%). Here the jewelleryproduction has expanded rapidly, especially around thePearl River Delta Region, the mainland opposite toHong Kong, as employees have become more skilfuland the competition from other low-cost producingcentres in Asia increased.

China and Thailand are the largest non-EU suppliers tothe EU. Other suppliers, which are growing inimportance, are South Korea, Hong Kong, India andPhilippines. Most of these countries were able tobenefit from the devaluation of their currencies relativeto those in Europe (especially the UK Pound), whichresulted in lower prices for EU importers. Producingcountries in Eastern Europe, like Czech Republic andPoland have also increased their exports of fashionjewellery to the EU. A detailed overview of the sourcesof EU imports can be found in Appendix 1.

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Figure 5.1 Main non-EU suppliers of fashion jewellery to the EU, 1997-1999 Value in US$ million

Total imports by selected markets within the EU

Germany

Germany is the largest EU importer of fashion jewelleryand accounted for 25% of total EU imports by value in1999. In that year, Germany imported 5,165 tonnes witha value of US$ 311 million. Around 60% of imports wassourced outside the EU, while 46% of total Germanimports came from developing countries. Germany is alarge importer of jewellery of metal-clad-with glass andsilver jewellery compared to other EU countries. Between1997 and 1999, German imports increased by 64% (interms of value), mainly because of an increase in demandfor jewellery of metal-clad-with glass, jewellery of othermaterial and silver jewellery. Imports of all othercategories have slightly increased. The main suppliers offashion jewellery to Germany are Austria (25% of totalvalue of imports), China (21%) and Thailand (13%). Othersuppliers include Italy (6%), South Korea (5%), Taiwan(3%), USA (3%) and Czech Republic (3%). An overviewof German imports by product group is given in Appendix 1.

United Kingdom

The United Kingdom is the largest EU importer in termsof volume and accounted for 33% of the communitytotal imports of fashion jewellery in 1999. Importsamounted to 13,830 tonnes, with a value of US$ 234million. British importers sourced around 77% of theirrequirements in non-EU countries and 54% came fromdeveloping countries. Compared to other EU countriesthe United Kingdom is a large importer of jewellery ofmetal, jewellery of other material and of cuff links andstuds. Between 1997 and 1999, the volume of UKimports have more than doubled, as British importerscould benefit from the high Pound Sterling. In the sameperiod hair ornaments, jewellery of metal-clad-withglass, jewellery of other material and silver jewelleryhave been more in demand in the UK. The mainsuppliers of fashion jewellery to the UK are China (24%of total value of imports) and Thailand (15%). Othersuppliers include South Korea (8%), USA (7%), Ireland(7%), Germany (6%), Taiwan (5%), India (4%), HongKong (4%), Italy (4%), France (4%) and Austria (4%).

France

France accounted for 15% of EU imports of fashionjewellery in 1999, a total value of US$ 195 million,or 4,176 tonnes. Around 50% of total French importswas sourced outside the EU, while 39% came fromdeveloping countries. Compared to other EU countries,France is a large importer of jewellery of metal andjewellery of metal-clad (see also table 5.2 in the nextsection). Imports include finished costume jewellery aswell as materials used in the production of costumejewellery. French imports of fashion jewellery rose by25% in value terms between 1997 and 1999. Especiallydemand for jewellery of-clad-with glass, silver jewelleryand hair ornaments has grown. In 1999, most French

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imports of fashion jewellery came from China (18% oftotal value of imports), Italy (12%), Austria (11%)Thailand (10%). Other suppliers include Belgium (6%),Spain (5%), Germany (5%), South Korea (4%), UnitedKingdom (4%), India (3%), Taiwan (2%) and USA (2%).

Italy

In 1999, Italy imported 2,230 tonnes with a value of US$98 million. Around 69% of imports was sourced outsidethe EU and 50% came from developing countries.Between 1997 and 1999, Italian imports of fashionjewellery increased by 72% in terms of volume, resultingfrom increased imports of hair ornaments and of jewelleryof other material. Like France, Italy imports many materialsfor the manufacturing of silver jewellery. Except jewelleryof metal-clad, cuff links and studs, Italian demand for allproduct groups has grown in volume terms. In 1999, mostItalian imports of fashion jewellery came from China(20% of total value of imports). Other suppliers includeThailand (9%), India (8%), Austria (7%), Germany (7%),France (7%), South Korea (6%), USA (5%), Spain (4%),Taiwan (4%) Czech Republic (3%) and Hong Kong (3%).

Spain

In 1999, Spanish imports of fashion jewellery were 3,353tonnes, or US$ 73 million, representing 6% of total EUimports. Around 57% of Spanish imports were sourcedoutside the EU and 45% came from developing countries.Spain has relatively high imports of jewellery of metal,jewellery of metal-clad, silver jewellery and hairornaments, all of which showed an increase between 1997and 1999. In the same period, Spanish imports of allfashion jewellery increased by 47% in volume terms.Because most of the imported Spanish costume and silverjewellery was destined for the low-end market, wherecompetition has intensified, the value of total Spanishimports only increased by around 20%. China (24%) andItaly (17%) are the main suppliers to Spain. Othersuppliers include France (10%), South Korea (7%),Thailand (5%), United Kingdom (4%), India (4%), Taiwan(4%), Germany (4%), Austria (4%) and USA (3%).

The Netherlands

In 1999, imports amounted to 2,106 tonnes, with a valueof US$ 64 million. Around 70% came from non-EUsources and 31% from developing countries. Between1997 and 1999, Dutch imports of fashion jewelleryincreased by 36% in terms of volume and 20% in terms of value. Jewellery of metal, jewellery of metal-clad-withglass, silver jewellery and hair ornaments were more indemand, while the Dutch volume of imports of jewellerymetal-clad and jewellery of other material decreased in thesame period. Hong Kong (19% of total value of imports)and USA (11%) were the main suppliers, while othersuppliers include China (9%), Germany (9%), Thailand(7%), Italy (7%), India (5%), Taiwan (5%), Belgium (4%),South Korea (4%) United Kingdom (3%), Austria (3%),Philippines (3%), France (3%) and Indonesia (3%).

5.2 Imports by product group

Selected EU markets by product groupIn trade statistics a distinction is made between fashionjewellery in terms of the material used and not in termsof the type of product (necklaces, earrings etc.). As isshown in table 5.2, the United Kingdom was in 1999the largest importer within the selected EU countries ofjewellery of metal, jewellery of other material, of cufflinks, studs and of hair ornaments. Germany is thelargest importer of jewellery of metal-clad-with glassand of silver jewellery, while France is a large importerof jewellery of metal-clad.

37

EU total by product groupThe main product groups of fashion jewellery importedby the EU and the development between 1997 and 1999are shown in figure 5.2. In terms of value, costumejewellery accounted for 54% of EU imports in 1999,while silver jewellery and hair ornaments took aproportion of 28% and 18% respectively. Costume jewellery and hair ornaments accounted for91% of the total volume of EU imports of fashionjewellery in 1999. In period of review, EU imports ofall fashion jewellery increased by 83% in volume terms,i.e. from 22 to 41 thousand tonnes, with largestincreases in silver jewellery (volume has tripled), and incombs and hair ornaments (volume has doubled).

Table 5.2 Imports by the major selected EU markets within the EU by product group, 1999

EU imports Imports by selected EU marketProduct group US$ million As percent of total value

Costume-of metal 232 UK (24%) France (18%) Germany (16%) Italy (8%) NL (6%)Costume-of metal-clad-with glass 217 UK (6%) France (15%) Germany (45%) Italy (6%) NL (2%)Costume-of metal-clad 110 UK (9%) France (29%) Germany (16%) Spain (10%) NL (9%)Costume-of other material 136 UK (31%) France (13%) Germany (14%) Italy (10%) NL (6%)Cuff links and studs 9 UK (48%) France (10%) Germany ( 5%) Italy (6%) NL (3%)Silver jewellery 360 UK (17%) France (13%) Germany (31%) Italy (8%) NL (4%)Hair ornaments 235 UK (25%) France (11%) Germany (21%) Italy (8%) NL (6%)

Note: NL = The Netherlands

Source: Eurostat (2001)

1300

1200

1100

1000

900

800

700

600

500

400

300

200

100

0

27%

18%

55%

Hair ornaments

Silver jewellery

Costume jewellery1,013

22

27%

16%

57%

1,151

36

28%

18%

54%

1,302

41

1997Value Volume 48% 6% 46%

1998Value Volume 35% 15% 50%

1999Value Volume 37% 9% 54%

Figure 5.2 EU imports of fashion jewellery by major product group, 1997-1999As percent of value in US$ million / volume in thousand tonnes

Source: Eurostat (2001)

A detailed breakdown of product groups imported bythe EU can be found in Appendix 1. Between 1997 and1999, the total EU imports of fashion jewelleryincreased from US$ 1,013 to 1,302 million. This wasmainly because of a higher demand for jewellery ofmetal-clad-with glass, jewellery of metal and jewelleryof other material. Next to their large increases involume, EU import values of silver jewellery and hairornaments increased by around 25% each.

Import statistics for each separate product group andspecific information about supplies from developingcountries can also be found in Appendix 1.

Around 60% of EU imports by value came from non-EU sources. Developing countries accounted for 43% ofthe total value of EU imports of fashion jewellery. Mostproduct groups are relevant to exporters from developingcountries and are, therefore, described below:

Costume jewellery-of metalThis product group includes all jewellery made ofmetal, soft metals (tin and lead), stainless steel,titanium, brass, copper or alpaca (alloy of copper,brass and zinc). In 1999, this product group accountedfor 18% of total EU imports, representing a value of US$ 232 million. In terms of volume, jewellery of metal also accounted for 18% of total imports offashion jewellery, as is shown below.

38

The USA, Hong Kong, Thailand and Taiwan are otherimportant non-EU suppliers. Statistics concerning thedevelopment of EU imports of this product group canbe found in Appendix 1.

Developing country supplies of jewellery of metal otherthan China and South Korea included Thailand (5% oftotal value of EU imports), India (3%), Philippines(1%) and smaller sources like Tunisia, Indonesia, SouthAfrica, Mauritius, Turkey, Costa Rica, Morocco, Brazil,Albania, Pakistan and Egypt. Between 1997 and 1999,EU imports from all these countries, except from SouthAfrica, Mauritius, Mexico, Brazil have risen slightly.

Costume jewellery-of metal-clad-with glassThis product group includes jewellery made of metal,which is clad with silver, gold or platinum and whichhas parts of glass. In 1999, this type of jewelleryaccounted for 17% of total EU imports, representing avalue of US$ 217 million. In terms of volume, thisproduct group accounted for 5% of total imports offashion jewellery, which indicates a higher price levelthan for other costume jewellery product groups.

Table 5.3 EU imports of costume jewellery-of metal

Volume Share Value Share

Costume jewellery-of metal 7,580 18% 232 18%Total fashion jewellery 41,669 1,302

Note: EU imports of 1999 are given in tonnes and US$ million;

Source: Eurostat (2001)

Between 1997 and 1999, EU imports of jewellery ofmetal slightly increased by 3% in value. In terms ofvolume, imports increased by 53%, which was due toan unusual high volume of imports of this type ofjewellery from the USA by Sweden in 1999. EUcountries, especially France, Italy, Germany and The Netherlands imported more jewellery of metal fromthe larger supplying countries in Asia. In general,higher priced jewellery of metal from South Korea,USA, Germany, Austria and United Kingdom was morein demand.

As shown in figure 5.3, in 1999, 31% of EU imports ofmetal jewellery came from other EU countries, while23% came from China and 13% from South Korea.

Table 5.4 EU imports of costume jewellery-of metal-clad-with glass

Volume Share Value Share

Costume jewellery-of metal-clad-with glass 1,965 5% 217 17%Total fashion jewellery 41,669 1,302

Note: EU imports of 1999 are given in tonnes and US$ million;

Source: Eurostat (2001)

Between 1997 and 1999, imports of this type ofjewellery have considerably increased, by 76% in terms of volume reaching a total of 1,965 tonnes. In terms of value, EU imports have almost doubledfrom 109 to 217 million US$ in the period of review,when much more was imported by Germany (45% oftotal EU imports value of this product group), France,United Kingdom and Spain.

With regard to supplying countries, other EU countries(especially Austria, the home of Swarovski crystaljewellery) accounted for 72% of EU imports of thistype of jewellery as is shown in figure 5.3. Here Irelandand also Germany are other significant supplying EU countries. Important non-EU suppliers includeChina (8% of total EU imports), Thailand (6%),Czech Republic (4%) and India (4%).

In 1999, the share of developing countries in suppliesof jewellery of metal-clad-with glass was rather low(around 20%), although in terms of volume, the shareof this product group in EU imports was 45%. Apartfrom China, Thailand and India, who were the majorsuppliers, other countries included South Korea,Philippines, Tunisia, Morocco, Indonesia, Pakistan andVietnam. Between 1997 and 1999, EU imports from alldeveloping countries, particularly Thailand and India,have increased, as is shown in the import statistics ofthis product group, which can be found in Appendix 1.

In the next few years, it is expected that theconsumption of jewellery of metal-clad-with glass willincrease further, with the large market potential forjewellery with coloured glass, crystal, beads, imitationpearls and semi-precious stones. A major reason is theshift from cheaper to more luxury types of fashionjewellery by consumers in the low-end and middlerange segments in most EU markets.

Costume jewellery-of other materialThis product group covers costume jewellery, which ismade of other material than metal, and includes all

39

natural materials (e.g. leather, wood, horn, rubber, bone,resin, coconut, shells etc.), stones, beads, glass,terracotta, ceramics, plastic, nylon, raffia, amber andrecycled material (bones, egg shells).

In the past few years the variety available has beenexpanded enormously. In 1999, jewellery of othermaterial represented 10% of all EU imported fashionjewellery with a total value of US$ 136 million. Interms of volume, this product group accounted for 9%of total imports of fashion jewellery.

100 200 300 4000

Costume-metal-clad with glass

217

Costume-metal232

Costume-other material

136

Costume-metal-clad

110

Cuff links, studs9

Silver 360

Hair ornaments235

%

Thailand 32% China 10% India 4% USA 4% Others 17% Intra-EU 33%

China 34% Taiwan 11% South Korea 7% Others 14% Intra-EU 34%

72

31

China 8% Thailand 6% India 4% Others 10% Intra-EU 72%

China 23% South Korea 13% Hong Kong 7% Others 26% Intra-EU 31%

32 China 25% South Korea 6% USA 6% Others 31% Intra-EU 32%

China 20% South Korea 9% USA 8% Others 19% Intra-EU 44%

China 16% USA 9% Others 31% Intra-EU 44%

44

33

34 11 7 14 34

32 10 4 4 17

20

25 6 6

8

23 13 7 26

6 4 10

31

9 8 19

Figure 5.3 EU imports of fashion jewellery by product group, 1999Main suppliers as percent of total value (in US$ million)

Source: Eurostat (2001)

Table 5.5 EU imports of costume jewellery-of other material

Volume Share Value Share

Costume jewellery-ofother material 3,694 9% 136 10%Total fashion jewellery 41,669 1,302

Note: EU imports of 1999 are given in tonnes and US$ million;

Source: Eurostat (2001)

Within the EU, the United Kingdom is the largestimporter and accounted in 1999 for around one third oftotal EU imports. Other sizeable EU importers wereGermany, France and Italy (see also table 5.2 at thebeginning of this section).

Between 1997 and 1999, the volume of EU importsincreased by 21% from 3,028 to 3,694 tonnes andjewellery made of beads, shells, leather, leather strapsor strings has been particularly in demand.

In 1999, around 32% of EU imports of jewellery ofother material came from other EU countries, as isshown in figure 5.3. In that year, 25% came fromChina, 6% from South Korea and 6% from USA. Other important non-EU sources included Hong Kong,Taiwan and the Czech Republic.

In addition to China and South Korea, developingcountry supplies of jewellery of other material includedIndia (6% of total value of EU imports), Philippines(5%), Thailand (2%) and smaller suppliers likeIndonesia, Mauritius, Mexico, South Africa, Peru,Brazil, Turkey, North Korea, Morocco, Guatemala,Kenya, Ecuador, Nepal, Pakistan, Mauritania, Beninand Egypt. Between 1997 and 1999 EU imports fromall these countries increased. Statistics concerning thedevelopment of EU imports of jewellery of othermaterial can be found in Appendix 1.

The consumption of this type of costume jewellery isexpected to increase reflecting the latest fashion trends(see Chapter 3.3), although it will be at a slower ratethan in the period of review.

Costume jewellery-of metal-cladIn 1999, this product group accounted for 8% of totalEU imports, representing a value of US$ 110 million.In terms of volume it accounted for 5% of total importsof fashion jewellery, as shown below:

40

Within the EU, France is usually a largest importer,accounting for around one third of total EU imports.Germany is another sizeable EU importer, followed bySpain and United Kingdom (see table 5.2).

Between 1997 and 1999, the value of imports ofjewellery of metal-clad in the EU decreased by 3%,although in terms of volume EU imports increased by8%, from 1,850 to 1,992 tonnes, indicating a drop inprices. This was particularly the case in imports fromother EU countries, which accounted for almost half ofsupplies in 1999.

Imports from the major supplier, China (20% of totalvalue), increased considerably in the period of review,with a slight rise in terms of volume. Other significantnon-EU suppliers included South Korea (8%),USA (7%), Hong Kong (4%) and Taiwan (2%). Apart from China, other supplying developing countriesof metal-clad jewellery included Thailand (4% of totalvalue of EU imports), India (2%) and smaller supplierslike Costa Rica, Philippines, Tunisia, South Africa,Colombia, Ecuador, Mauritius, Mexico, and Vietnam.Between 1997 and 1999 EU imports from most of thesecountries have increased.

Cuff links and studsDemand for cuff links and studs in the EU hasdecreased substantially in terms of value. In 1999, thisproduct group accounted for 0.7% of total EU imports,representing a value of US$ 9 million. Within the EU,the United Kingdom is the largest importer and cufflinks and studs.

The main suppliers were Germany (17% of total valueof EU imports), closely followed by China (16%),United Kingdom (12%), USA (9%), Hong Kong (8%),Taiwan (7%), Poland (4%) and other EU countries. EUimports from China, USA, Hong Kong, Poland andThailand, increased between 1997 and 1999.

Silver jewelleryAs mentioned at the beginning of this chapter, it shouldbe noted that precious silver jewellery is also covered inthis survey. Trade statistics do not differentiate betweencheap and expensive silver, which results in anovervaluation in the total EU imports of fashionjewellery, where silver jewellery accounts for a largeproportion in terms of value. In the period of review,silver jewellery has been a steady growing market.

In 1999, silver jewellery represented 28% of EUfashion jewellery imports and accounted for a totalvalue of US$ 360 million. In terms of volume itaccounted for 9% of total imports of fashion jewellery,which indicates a higher price level than the other typesof fashion jewellery, as is shown in Table 5.7.

Table 5.6 EU imports of costume jewellery-ofmetal-clad

Volume Share Value Share

Costume jewellery-of metal-clad 1,992 5% 110 8%Total fashion jewellery 41,669 1,302

Note: EU imports of 1999 are given in tonnes and US$ million;

Source: Eurostat (2001)

Between 1997 and 1999, the value of EU imports ofsilver jewellery increased by around 30%, while involume terms EU imports almost tripled. This wasmainly due to the growing popularity of the cheapersterling silver jewellery among younger people in allselected markets within the EU.In the period of review much more silver jewellery wasimported by Germany (30% of total EU imports value),United Kingdom, France and Italy.

Thailand is the major supplier, in terms of value, and in1999 accounted for 32% of EU imports of silverjewellery, representing a value of US$ 113 million,or a volume of 655 tonnes. Between 1997 and 1999,the volume of EU imports from Thailand more thantripled, from 155 to 655 tonnes. Italy is the largestsupplier to the EU in volume terms, and in 1999accounted for 2,323 tonnes, valued at US$ 57 million.Germany is another important EU supplier.

Non-EU suppliers include China (10% of total EUimports), India (4%) and USA (4%), and China hasbecome an important supplier of silver jewellery to theEU. Between 1997 and 1999 EU imports from Chinarose from US$ 8 to 35 million. In the same period,imports from India also showed a steady increase.

In 1999, the share of developing countries in suppliesof silver jewellery was 53%, although, in terms ofvolume, their share was only 25%. This indicates ahigher price level for silver jewellery from developingcountries, compared to that for silver jewelleryimported from Italy. Apart from Thailand, China andIndia, other developing country suppliers includedMexico, Indonesia, Turkey, Mauritius, Sri Lanka,South Korea, Nepal, Philippines, Tunisia, Chile andPeru (subcontracting for Italian manufacturers).Between 1997 and 1999, EU imports from mostdeveloping countries, particularly those from Mauritius,Nepal, Tunisia, Egypt, Malaysia and Cuba haveincreased, as is shown in the import statistics for silverjewellery, which can be found in Appendix 1.

Hair ornamentsDemand for hair ornaments in the EU has increasedsubstantially. In 1999, this product group as a whole

41

accounted for 18% of total EU imports, representing avalue of US$ 235 million. It includes hairbrushes,(trimside) combs, slides, hairpins, curlers, rollers,hair clips, barrettes, pony tailers, headbands, hair gems,hairsprings and hair picks. However, trade statisticsonly break down hair ornaments into the product sub-groups ‘combs, hairslides etc.’ and ‘hairpins andcurlers’, which are being further differentiated in termsof the materials used, which can be hard rubber plasticsor other material (wood, horn, bone, resin etc.).

In terms of volume, the share of hair ornaments in totalEU imports of fashion jewellery is large, while in valueterms it is only 6% for each sub-group, as is shown intable 5.8.

Table 5.7 EU imports of silver jewellery

Volume Share Value Share

Silver jewellery 3,643 9% 360 28%Total fashion jewellery 41,669 1,302

Note: EU imports of 1999 are given in tonnes and US$ million;

Source: Eurostat (2001)

Table 5.8 EU imports of hair ornaments

Volume Share Value Share

Combs, hairslides(rubber, plastic) 6,673 16% 82 6%Combs, hairslides(other material) 9,743 23% 75 6%Hairpins, curling pins,grips etc. 6,276 15% 78 6%

Total fashion jewellery 41,669 1,302

Note: EU imports of 1999 are given in tonnes and US$ million;

Source: Eurostat (2001)

Between 1997 and 1999, EU imports of the sub-groupcombs, hairslides (rubber plastic) increased in value by44% from 57 to 81 million US$. EU imports of thissub-group increased enormously in terms of volume,which was mainly due to large incidental imports, of6,309 tonnes by the United Kingdom from France in1998. This transaction made the total volume of importsof hair ornaments in 1998 unusually high, however thevolume of EU imports of this sub-group still showed asteady increase, since all hair ornaments sub-groupshave gained in popularity. EU imports of combs, hairslides (other material)increased in volume by more than 400% between 1997and 1999 and imports of other hairpins, curling pinsrose by 45%.

EU suppliers, especially Ireland, Germany and Italy,accounted for 34% of total EU imports of hairornaments, as is shown in figure 5.3. Significant non-EU suppliers included China (one third ofsupplies), Taiwan, South Korea, Czech Republic,Hong Kong, Thailand and Israel. Apart from these andEastern European countries, other important suppliersfrom developing countries were India, Philippines,

Turkey, Mauritius, Colombia, Brazil, Tunisia,Indonesia, St Lucia, Sri Lanka, Venezuela and Vietnam.

It is expected that the consumption of hair ornamentswill increase further when taking the latest fashiontrends in consideration (see Chapter 3.3).

5.3 The role of developing countriesChina, Thailand, South Korea and India dominate thesupply of fashion jewellery from developing countries.In 1999, they together accounted for 90% of supplies tothe EU from developing countries. In the past fewyears, Philippines, Indonesia and Mexico have becomeimportant suppliers. Only a few countries in LatinAmerica and Africa have been able to obtain asignificant position in the international fashionjewellery trade for the following reasons:• In most countries, fashion jewellery is handmade and

labour intensive. Production capacity, the level oftechnology, flexibility, good communications,product innovations and variety in design are limited.

• Many developing countries export jewellery to theUSA. However, in terms of size and style, thisjewellery often does not comply with the demandingand diverse EU market, where trends in fashiondiffer from those in the USA. Exporters lack therequired information on the EU market.

• EU manufacturers continue to contract to foreignmanufacturers in Asian (especially China) andEastern European countries, which are much‘closer’ and more flexible in terms of meeting theirspecific requirements.

42

• It is difficult for many developing countries toproduce fittings, locks and clasps of good quality.These are essential for the durability and reliabilityof jewellery items.

Nevertheless, exports from developing countries to theEU showed a steady increase between 1997 and 1999.The volume of imports from developing countries roseenormously from 10,615 to 16,647 tonnes, valued atUS$ 555 million in 1999. The largest increases were in the supplies from China,Thailand, South Korea and India. Other developingcountries like Philippines, Turkey, Mauritius, Tunisia,Nepal and Costa Rica increased their supplies to the EUconsiderably, as is shown in table 5.9, although in somecountries values dropped like in Indonesia.

Import statistics for the total fashion jewellery suppliesby developing countries to the EU can be found at theend of Appendix 1. Statistics for EU imports of eachindividual product group are also given in Appendix 1and supplies from developing countries are emphasised.

Between 1997 and 1999, the EU imported morejewellery of metal-clad, jewellery of other material,silver jewellery and hair ornaments from developingcountries. The share of each product group and themajor developing country suppliers are shown in table 5.10.

Table 5.9 Largest increases in supplies of fashion jewellery from developing countries to the EU, 1997-1999 Tonnes/US$ 1,000

1997 1998 1999 volume increase %value volume value volume value volume 1997-1999

Total from DCs 394,301 10,615 437,740 11,883 555,029 16,647 57%

China 146,015 7,061 167,694 8,069 242,884 11,820 67%Thailand 127,074 846 137,048 841 150,139 1,246 47%South Korea 41,567 1,184 49,459 1,356 67,910 1,700 44%India 27,921 847 35,282 939 42,927 1,050 24%Philippines 9,124 226 9,068 219 11,267 325 44%Indonesia 14,908 129 10,301 166 9,523 211 63%Turkey 2,055 15 2,759 20 3,650 34 226%Mauritius 2,917 23 3,310 21 3,151 30 30%Tunisia 488 6 606 10 2,292 18 300%Nepal 705 3 1,067 4 1,080 7 233%Costa Rica 711 3 865 4 916 6 200%

Note: - DC = developing country

- Countries, eligible for CBI assistance are printed in italics

Source: Eurostat (2001)

In value terms, the proportion in EU fashion jewelleryimports from developing countries increased from 38 to 43% in the period of review. The supplies of allfashion jewellery from developing countries haveincreased, though there are differences by productgroup. The shares and trends in their supplies of eachproduct group between 1997 and 1999 are shown infigure 5.4.

43

Developing countries, as defined by the OECD,are listed in Appendix 9 and countries eligible for CBI assistance are marked. The final part of Appendix 1lists detailed import statistics of the EU and the mostimportant suppliers from developing countries. In thebox on the next page the main developing countrieseligible for CBI support are listed in terms of their levelof supply to the EU.

Table 5.10 EU imports from developing countries by product group, 1999

DC supplies Major supplies from developing countries to the EUProduct group US$ million % of total import value

Costume-metal 108 China (50%), South Korea (28%), Thailand (10%), India (7%), Philippines (2%),Tunisia (1%), Indonesia (0.4%), South Africa (0.4%), (0.4%), Mauritius (0.3%).

Costume-other material 62 China (54%), South Korea (14%), India (12%), Philippines (10%), Thailand (4%),Indonesia (2%), Mauritius (0.3%), Mexico (0.3%), South Africa (0.3%).

Costume-metal-clad-glass 43 China (39%), Thailand (29%), India (21%), South Korea (8%), Philippines (2%),Tunisia (0.5%), Morocco (0.3%), Indonesia (0.3%), Pakistan (0.1%).

Costume-metal-clad 41 China (54%), South Korea (22%), Thailand (11%), India (5%), Costa Rica (2%),Philippines (1%), Tunisia (1%), South Africa (1%), Colombia (1%), Ecuador (0.7%).

Cuff links and studs 2 China (71%), Thailand (9%), South Korea (9%), Indonesia (4%), Mexico (2%),South Africa (2%), India (0.8%), Philippines (0.2%).

Silver jewellery 191 Thailand (59%), China (19%), India (8%), Mexico (5%), Indonesia (4%),Turkey (1%), Mauritius (1%), Sri Lanka (0.7%), Philippines (0.5%), Nepal (0.5%).

Hair ornaments 106 China (75%), South Korea (15%), Thailand (5%), India (1%), Philippines (1%),Turkey (1%), Mauritius (0.6%), Colombia (0.2%), Brazil (0.1%), Tunisia (0.1%).

Note: * countries, printed in italics are eligible for CBI assistance

Source: Eurostat (2001)

100

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

0

1997

1998

1999

47

37

20

46

22

53

45 43

%

Costume-metal Costume-metal- Costume-metal- Costume-other Cuff links, studs Silver jewellery Hair ornaments TOTAL clad clad-with glass material

Figure 5.4 Supply of developing countries to the EU by product group, 1997 - 1999As per cent of total supply (based on value in US$)

Source: Eurostat (2001)

The greater proportion of EU imports comes from a few leading suppliers, which are mainly in Asia. The differences and difficulties in expansion of fashionjewellery exports in each region can be described asfollows:

44

Nevertheless, there are opportunities for exporters fromdeveloping countries to increase their supplies to theEU, possibly of innovative or special jewellery items.Since the 1990s, developing countries have steadilyincreased their exports to industrialised countries. The tendency among importers is to look for newerdeveloping countries like Vietnam, Tunisia, Ghana,Morocco, Pakistan, Honduras or other sources in South America or Africa, where production costs arelower. With the increasing specialisation of thefragmented EU market, manufacturers have a growinginterest in co-operation with others. In addition, theyare constantly looking for different types of fashionjewellery from new countries with new designs and alink to their own culture; in all cases it is essential tomeet EU market requirements.

Developing countries, eligible for CBI support, supplying fashion jewellery to the EU

Large supplying countries : Thailand, India, Philippines, Indonesia.Medium supplying countries : Tunisia, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Costa Rica, Colombia.Small supplying countries : Peru, Morocco, Ecuador, Pakistan, Vietnam, Egypt, Guatamala, Kenya, Panama, Benin,

Lebanon, Venzuela, Dominican Republic, Ivory Coast, Honduras, El Salvador, Ghana,Madagascar, Mali.

Note: Large = Export value more than US$ 10,000 million

Medium = Export value between US$ 500 and 10,000 million

Small = Export value less than US$ 500 million

AsiaMost EU importers source costume jewellery from Chinaand South Korea. Thailand and India are leadingsuppliers of silver jewellery. Supplies from these fourcountries are large and the jewellery industry in thesecountries is characterised by the presence of many smallcompanies, competing in terms of price, productinnovations (China) and lead-times. Most of thesecountries have well-established jewellery associations.International or national trade fairs also take place inthese countries. Silver jewellery from Thailand and Indiais widely known. Other Asian countries, like Indonesiaand the Philippines have increased exports of jewelleryof other material and are increasingly recognised asinteresting new suppliers of fashion jewellery. Other growing Asian suppliers to the EU are Sri Lanka,Nepal and Vietnam.

Latin AmericaMexico is the only significant supplier from Latin America.Exports from Latin American countries are more orientedtowards the USA. Small-medium sized supplyingcountries to the EU are Costa Rica, Colombia, Brazil,Peru, Ecuador, Chile, Guatemala and St.Lucia. The longdistance and difficulty in communication, from LatinAmerican countries may be constraints to developmentsin exports to the EU. However, Spain and Portugalimport considerable quantities of fashion jewellery fromLatin American countries, because of their colonial links.

AfricaMauritius and South Africa are considerable suppliers offashion jewellery to the EU. Egypt, Morocco, Tunisia,Niger and Kenya are sizeable suppliers of jewellery ofother material and silver jewellery. Nonetheless, mostAfrican countries do not have large production capacity,lack the level of technology or cannot guarantee aconstant delivery.

6 EXPORTS

Total exports by the EUThe EU is among the leading exporters of fashionjewellery in the world with Italy as the third largestexporting country of silver jewellery. With regard tosilver jewellery, it should be noted that precious silverjewellery is also included here. Trade statistics do notdifferentiate between cheap and expensive silver, whichresults in an overvaluation in the total fashion jewelleryexports.Significant exporters of costume jewellery includeAustria, France, Germany and the United Kingdom,reflecting their international leadership role in the fieldof fashion. In 1999, the EU exported 15,434 tonneswith a value of US$ 1,254 million. Between 1997 and1999, EU exports increased by 29% in volume and 10%in value. This increase was mainly due to higher exportsby Italy, Austria, Germany and The Netherlands.However, the exports of other selected EU countries,especially those of United Kingdom and Spaindecreased.

Italy is a major producer and the largest exporter ofsilver jewellery in the European Union and accountedfor more than one third of all EU exports in 1999:3,145 tonnes, with a value of US$ 472 million. Italy isfollowed by Austria (14% of EU exports in 1999),France (12%), Germany (10%), United Kingdom (9%),Spain (5%), The Netherlands (3%), Ireland (2%),Denmark (2%), Belgium (2%) and Greece (1%).

Appendix 1 lists export statistics for the EU (by countryand by product group) and for Italy. The costumejewellery exported by the EU in 1999 were: jewelleryof metal (16% of total EU fashion jewellery exportvalue), jewellery of metal-clad-with glass (14%),jewellery of other material (7%), jewellery of metal-clad (7%), cuff links and studs (2%), silver jewellery(43%) and hair ornaments (10%). In general, exports toother EU countries increased between 1997 and 1999.However, EU exports to Japan and Hong Kongstagnated, which affected Italian exports particularlybadly. Stronger exports to Eastern Europe, Russia andthe USA have compensated the declining exports toAsian countries, which were affected by the recession.

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Italy

Austria

France

Germany

United Kingdom

Spain

The Netherlands

Ireland

Denmark

Belgium /Luxembourg

Greece

Finland

Sweden

Portugal

1999

1998

1997

472

146

126

174

63

40

31

23

23

17

11

9

3

50 100 200 300 400 500

115

Figure 6.1 EU exports of fashion jewellery, 1997 - 1999 US$ million

Source: Eurostat (2001)

Exports by the selected markets within the EU

Italy

Italy controlled a 38% share of all fashion jewellery andexported a volume of 3,145 tonnes, valued at US$ 472million in 1999. The most important product group wassilver jewellery, which accounted for almost 80% oftotal exports. Other important Italian export productswere jewellery of metal (6%) and jewellery of othermaterial (5%). Italian exports were higher in 1999 than1997 due to higher exports of silver jewellery. In 1999,other EU markets imported 31% of Italian fashionjewellery, while the USA, Japan, Panama, Switzerland,Canada, Mexico, Israel, Poland, Turkey, Australia,Hong Kong were also major customers.

France

France is the second largest exporter of fashionjewellery, exporting a value of US$ 146 million or 12%of total EU exports in 1999. Jewellery of metalaccounted for 18% of this total, followed by jewelleryof other material (14%), jewellery of metal-clad (13%),jewellery of metal-clad-with glass (12%), silverjewellery (15%) and hair ornaments (27%). In 1999,other EU markets imported 40% of France’s totalexports. Major non-EU customers were Japan, USA,Switzerland, South Korea, Hong Kong, Saudi Arabia,Benin, Canada, Singapore and Taiwan.

Germany

As the third largest exporter of fashion jewellery in theEU, Germany exported a value of US$ 126 million in1999, which represented 10% of total EU exports.Silver jewellery accounted for 38%, followed byjewellery of metal-clad (15%), jewellery of metal(12%), jewellery of other material (8%), jewellery ofmetal-clad-with glass (7%) and hair ornaments (16%).In 1999, other EU markets imported 50% of Germanexports, while non-EU markets were Japan, USA,Czech Republic, Hong Kong, Saudi Arabia, Russia,Poland, Hungary, Taiwan and South Korea.

United Kingdom

In 1999, the United Kingdom exported 4,515 tonnes offashion jewellery with a total value of US$ 115 million,or 9% of total EU exports. Jewellery of metal accountedfor 36% of total exports, followed by jewellery of othermaterial (9%), jewellery of metal-clad (7%), silverjewellery (19%) and hair ornaments (18%). In 1999,other EU markets imported 64%, while much of theBritish fashion jewellery was also imported by theUSA, Japan, Switzerland, Hong Kong, Australia,Canada, Saudi Arabia, Israel, Nigeria, South Africa andKuwait.

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Spain

Spain is a sizeable EU exporter of fashion jewellery andexported a value of US$ 63 million in 1999, or 5% oftotal EU exports. Silver jewellery accounted for onethird of Spanish exports. Jewellery of metal-clad-withglass accounted for 20% of total exports, followed byjewellery of metal and jewellery of metal-clad (around15% each). In 1999, other EU markets imported 45% ofthe total; USA, Japan, Mexico, Chile, Venezuela,Colombia, Israel and Russia were also significantcustomers.

The Netherlands

The Netherlands exported a total volume of 1,229tonnes of fashion jewellery valued at US$ 40 million in1999. Between 1997 and 1999, Dutch exports increasedby 28% in value, due to higher exports of jewellery ofmetal, jewellery of other material, jewellery of metal-clad-with glass and silver jewellery. In 1999, jewelleryof metal-clad accounted for 30% of total exports. The greater part of these exports (87%) went to otherEU markets as re-exports.

An overview of EU exports by country and productgroup can be found at the end of Appendix 1.

7 TRADE STRUCTURE

7.1 EU trade channelsIn the past few years, fashion jewellery has becomemuch more available within all the selected EUmarkets. The driving factors have been an increaseddemand in the early 1990s which led to an oversupplyof lower priced items, and an increase in sales by non-specialised retail outlets such as clothing stores,department stores, drugstores, gift shops, hyper- andsupermarkets, home direct sales and hair dressers.

Only a few exporters have their own distributionnetworks or sell directly to consumers. Most of theselected markets within the EU operate throughimporters and, in southern EU countries, agents are also used.

• ImportersImporters purchase directly from foreign manufacturers,sell the jewellery in their own country and are familiarwith the local market situation. In addition to thebuying and selling of the jewellery, they take care ofimport and export procedures and hold items in stock.A good relationship with the importer can lead to a co-operation with regard to product designs, materials,

trends and quality requirements. Many importers selldirectly to retailers through a system of cash and carryshowrooms, which are visited by smaller retailers, whobuy direct at the showroom. Other importers have theirown sales staff, who visit the (larger) retailers on aregular basis and who take orders. Importers usuallybuy twice a year, in October for the summer and inApril for the winter. Exporters must deliver themerchandise for summer in December/January and themerchandise for winter must be delivered inJuly/August.

Nowadays most importers are specialised in a particularniche market, which could be a particular type offashion jewellery, such as earrings, jewellery fromMexico, the jewellery of a well-known designer,children’s jewellery, jewellery as souvenirs etc. They may also specialise in items at a particular pricelevel, in jewellery made of special materials or injewellery sold and merchandised through a specificmarketing system (e.g. rackjobbing). Most importersnow tend to buy product concepts or product ranges,instead of just a single type of product, unless theyspecialise in this item.

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C O N S U M E R S

AG E N T S

I M P O RT E R S

Retailersnon-specialised

E X P O RT E R S

Dep

artm

ent

stor

es

Clo

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ores

Dru

gsto

res

Fas

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bou

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es

Gif

tsho

ps

Str

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arke

ts

Retailersspecialised

Fas

hion

jew

elle

ry/

Bij

oute

rie

shop

s

Pre

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wel

lery

shop

s

Home Direct Sales

Mai

l or

der

Net

wor

k sa

les

Tel

esal

es

Inte

rnet

sal

esFigure 7.1 Typical distribution structure for fashion jewellery in EU markets

• AgentsThese are mainly independent companies whichnegotiate and settle business on the instructions of theirprincipals and which act as intermediaries betweenbuyer and seller. They do not buy or sell on their ownaccount and work on a commission basis. Most agentsrepresent more than one exporter, although competitionis avoided.

• RetailersThe different types of retail channels can be broadlydivided into three groups:

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Smaller bijoux shops:Also referred to as specialist shops for ‘bijoux’ (theFrench word for costume jewellery). Typically, about70% of the turnover of these specialist shops is fashionjewellery. The remainder varies widely betweenwatches, clocks and some fashion accessories.Particularly southern EU countries (France, Italy andSpain) have much highly specialised bijoux shops.

Franchised accessory shops:These specialised bijoux shops are linked to afranchiser (i.e. franchise organisation). This system ismost common in France. Here, more than half of thecostume jewellery for the middle range market weresold in 1999 through 3300 franchised stores, whichwere operated by 18 franchisers. These accessory shopshave a wider product range, selling many fashionaccessories in addition to jewellery like scarves,sunglasses, watches, headwear, belts, bags, socks andother gift items.

Accessory chain stores:These specialist stores are part of an international chainstore operation. Most of these stores have standardproduct assortments and are located in the city centres,where women treat them like any other clothing store.Because of volume discounts from their suppliers, theycan offer items at low prices, which often are purchasedimpulsively. These stores have been doing well in theUnited Kingdom, Germany and The Netherlands. In the UK, for example, organised accessory chainsstores like Accessorize (80 stores in 1999 and owned bythe Monsoon Group) specialise in jewellery ataffordable prices for females in their twenties. The German chain store operation Bijou Brigittespecialise in selling their own in-house design fashionjewellery and have expanded into other EU markets. In 1999, they had a total of some 300 stores in the EU,most of which were in Germany, with some in Austria,The Netherlands and Spain. The most important chainstore operations are listed below:

→ Specialised outlets which sell only fashion jewelleryor fashion accessories and precious jewellery outlets,where costume jewellery accounts for a highproportion of sales. These outlets vary from genuine(bijouterie) shops to specialised chain stores orfranchised stores.

→ Non-specialised outlets in which only part of thetotal range of goods is fashion jewellery.

→ Home direct sales or ‘network marketing’ whichtargets the individual consumer directly throughparty plans, teleshopping, mail order catalogues,the Internet and similar sources.

Retailers - Specialised outlets

Fashion jewellery shopsAccording to Mintel Market Intelligence, in 1999fashion jewellery shops accounted only for around 15%of the UK retail sales of fashion jewellery, since morethe majority is sold though non specialist outlets.Fashion jewellery shops can be divided into thefollowing three sub categories:

Store name Country of origin Type of operation Market segment

Accessorize United Kingdom Chain store Medium rangeClaire Accessories USA Chain store Low endAgatha France Franchise Medium rangePop Bijoux France Franchise Low end/medium rangeNereides France Chain store High end/medium rangeBijoux Catherine Germany Chain store Medium rangeBijoux Brigitte Germany Chain store Medium rangePetra Schmuck Germany Chain store Low end/medium rangeIrina Germany Shop in shop Medium rangeBlue Planet Italy Self service stores Low end/medium range

Precious jewellery shopsSpecialist jewellers concentrate their activities almostsolely on sales of gold, silver and platinum jewellery,watches, clocks, fine metal giftware and manufacturing/repair work. Their involvement in the sale of fashionjewellery is confined to limited sales of higher qualitycostume and silver jewellery. In the UK however, theshare of specialist jewellers selling fashion jewellerysale is considerable and increased between 1997 and1999 from 7 to 10% of all UK fashion jewellery sales.Independent smaller jewellers, who know the latesttrends in fashion, sell higher quality costume jewelleryand silver jewellery in order to attract younger peopleto their stores. The success of design-led stones fromSwarosvki (who specialise in crystal) or Ciro(specialising in imitation pearls) have helped to increasesales of fashion jewellery in jewellery shops. Generally,(precious) jewellery chain stores like Signet andGoldsmiths play little part in the market for fashionjewellery in most of the selected EU markets.

Retailers - Non-specialised outlets

Department storesThe sale of fashion accessories in department stores hasincreased steadily, particularly in the largest EUmarkets. In the UK around half of all fashion jewelleryis sold at department stores. Along with the growinginterest in health and body care in the mid-1990s,department stores in France, Germany, Spain and The Netherlands have tended to market their assortmentof cosmetic products with accessories such as fashionjewellery and hair ornaments. They also sell brandedjewellery, often related to clothing brands or well-known designers, alongside their own brands,which are often marketed for the medium range marketsegments. Young working women like to shop around ina jewellery department without feeling any obligation tobuy, which was not usually possible in jewellery shops.

In Italy specialist in-store (shop-in-shop) concessionsfor precious jewellery (gold) have been popular and tomeet this demand department stores have started to

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stock costume jewellery near their clothing items. For example in the Italian store Coin, ethnic style non-metal jewellery from developing countries (India and the Philippines) has become trendy and hasbeen successfully sold by this method.

Department stores buy jewellery directly from foreignsuppliers and buy a few items in large quantities. They will heavily promote the new item just once andwhen the trend or craze is then over and repeat orderswill not follow. In 1999, department stores tended toreduce the space allocated to fashion jewellery in favourof cosmetics and luxury watches which generally offera higher profit margin.

Clothing storesInternational and national chains, together withdepartment stores/variety chains, play a major role inpromoting and selling fashion jewellery. The storegroups typically have their own brand of fashionaccessories to complement the seasonal fashionsoffered. Young consumers tend to buy pieces ofjewellery at the same time as new clothes to complete a‘look’ or as an impulse purchase when shopping in thetown centre and will buy anything from silver jewelleryto fashionable costume jewellery items.Well-known clothing stores who stock complementaryfashion jewellery include Miss Selfridge, Next, Caroll,Kookai, Henness&Mauritz, Didi, Guess, Mexx, Esprit,Wallis, Oasis, Dorothy Perkins, Top Shop, Cisalfo,Krizia, Cacharel, Cotarelli, Cortefiel or Mango.

Fashion boutiquesThese are independent shops or small chains of shopsoperating in the middle to upper sections of the market.They lack the advantage of the purchasing power ofbigger multiples and consequently have to work withhigher margins. Jewellery items, like the clothing theysell, must be fashionable and exclusive, or customerswill purchase in cheaper stores. They tend to carry alimited range of jewellery which is chosen tocomplement the styling of their clothing collection.Importers are their main source of supply.

Country Total no. of outlets Name of department store and outlets

UK 271 Marks&Spencer (45), House of Frazer (51), Debenhams (90), John Lewis(23), Allders (37)France 157 Galéries Lafayette (100), Printemps (30), BHV (23), Bon Marché (2), La Samaritaine (1)Germany 356 Karstadt (180), Kaufhof (129), Hertie (23), Breuneringer (14), Kaufring (na)Italy 95 Coin (80), La Rinascente (15)Spain 73 El Corte Inglés (67), Perez del Molino (4), Jose Luis Gay (2)Netherlands 75 Bijenkorf (7), Vroom&Dreesmann - V&D (68)

Notes: - Department stores are ranged from high end - middle range - low end market segments.

- Variety stores are excluded.

Source: Corporate Intelligence Group (2001)

Drugstores Fashion jewellery is sold to consumers in a limited waythrough perfumery and chemist/drugstore outlets.Perfumery shops sell only top-level jewellery items,which are exclusive in terms of design, price and(international) brand name. Supplies are purchasedfrom importers. Drugstores, on the other hand, sell themore fashionable and lower priced silver jewellery andhair ornaments. During peak seasons, such asChristmas, they promote jewellery is as a gift item.

Gift and souvenir shopsConsumers also buy fashion jewellery in gift shops,souvenir shops and small highly specialised shops inmuseums and art galleries. This merchandise ispurchased from specialised importers, whose range ofproducts usually consists of jewellery, gifts, souvenirsand antiques. There is a good opportunity for exportershere, provided that items are sold in special giftpackaging and with an explanatory leaflet.

Street marketsFashion jewellery is a popular item on street markets,but vendors usually sell old stock from the previousseason purchased from wholesalers and retailers at lowprices. They are not generally involved in importing.

Fair Trade or Oxfam Fair Trade or Oxfam organisations could be anotherpossibility for exporters. These NGOs operate on anidealistic basis for the benefit of farmers, co-operativesand exporters from developing countries by assistingthem to sell their products in EU countries. For example, in The Netherlands, the Fair Tradeorganisation has 6 shops and also supplies to 300‘Wereldwinkels’ (Third World Shops) in the country.These organisations buy only products, which are madeunder humane and acceptable working conditions (they employ no child labour, for example) and forwhich a ‘fair’ price is being paid. In close co-operation,two jewellery collections per year are developed, whichreflect both current fashion and the cultural origin ofthe jewellery for sale through their own outlets. Price and quality are at a medium market level.

Other shopsFashion jewellery is sold in many other types of storese.g. tax-free shops, airlines (in-flight sales), children’sclothing outlets, toy shops, craft shops, optical shops,flower shops, shoe shops, hyper or supermarkets,cash-and-carry wholesalers with retail outlets, discountstores, gasoline stations etc.

Home direct salesThe Home Shopping phenomenon is attractingincreasing attention. With the constant development oftechnology and the purchasing being made easier by newsoftware, telecoms and credit card companies between

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customers and retailers, expectations for growth are high.‘Home direct’ selling is now a major part of the strategyof costume jewellery sales in the USA and is a growingarea of distribution in a number of EU countries.

Mail orderMail order catalogues are now more fashion-focused.They usually concentrate on selling gold articles andsell little or no silver or costume jewellery, because of its low average price. Fashion jewellery tends to be an impulse buy rather than a planned purchase,which makes it unattractive for catalogue selling. Well-known German and French companies are Otto,Neckermann, Trois Suisses, Camif, Maty (jewellery),Beaute Createurs, Damart Serviposte (clothing) and La Redoute. The mail order business is expected togradually shift to e-commerce. In the UK there hasbeen a marked decline in the market share of fashionjewellery sold by mail order companies, whose turnoverdecreased from 9 to 7% of total UK fashion jewelleryretail sales between 1997 and 1999.

E-commerceThe Internet and the possibilities opened up for on-lineshopping also exist in the jewellery sector. Accessorychain stores like Accessorize and Bijoux Brigitte haveopened up Internet sites. Sales is growing slow as stillmany consumers like to be able to touch, feel and tryout items before they buy. In addition, they aresuspicious about giving their credit card number toInternet operating companies. The Internet market forjewellery in the EU is still at an early stage ofdevelopment and it is difficult to estimate its currentand future market size. The American e-commercecompany ‘costume jewellery.com’ have an on-linechoice of 10,000 items. In the year 2004, it is estimatedthat Germany will have 30 million Internet users, whileFrance should have 18 million users, Italy 10 millionand Spain 8 million.

Multi-level marketing/Party plan/Pyramid salesIn these schemes, companies sell directly to consumerswho receive a discount depending on the amount theyorder. These consumers sell the jewellery in the sameway to their friends and gradually a network of buyers/sellers develops. The major advantage of the system isthat people trust the judgement of friends much morethan that of shop assistants. The major internationaloperators are AMWAY (the American Way), Cabochon,Avon and Caura International but pyramid selling hasdeclined in popularity.

TelesalesThe concept of selling through television, which startedin the USA, is now developing worldwide, with anumber of operators in Europe. The biggest operator isQVC, who are is now well established in the UK, andwho also broadcast via cable networks in Denmark,

Norway and The Netherlands. In the UK, approximately50% of QVC’s sales are estimated to be fashionjewellery. Other companies involved in teleshopping inEurope are Les Trois Suisses (French), La Redoute(French), Standa (Italian), Quelle (German) and TV Shop,which has three European home shopping channels.

7.2 Distribution channels for developingcountry exporters

Distribution channels in the selected markets within theEU are different and each market has its own preferreddistribution system. For example, The UK has adiversified system, with department stores leading thesales of fashion jewellery. France’s distribution is verycentralised with its focus on Paris and here fashionjewellery is mainly sold through franchised stores.German distribution is divided into eight ‘Nielsen’ areasand, in order to cover the whole market, it is necessaryto have a wholesaler in each area. In Germany and

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The Netherlands, buying groups are dominant in retailsales of fashion jewellery. For the geographically smalland compact Dutch market, one importer-wholesalercan handle national distribution very effectively.Distribution in the southern markets of Italy and Spainis far more fragmented than in the north and theproportion of retail sales carried out by small shops andboutiques relative to multiple chains is still very high.

Taking these differences into consideration, thefollowing channels provide the safest and most effectivemethod of distribution for exporters from developingcountries:

• Distribution by use of an importer in each country• Distribution through department stores, chain stores

and buying groups • Distribution through home direct sales channels

Distribution by an importer:

Advantages → Volume orders against guaranteed payment.→ No risk of unsold stock.→ Travel costs can be divided when visiting more than one importer.→ If working relationship is successful, more business will follow.

Disadvantages → Exporters receive a relatively small proportion of the final consumer price.→ Importers may require exclusivity in the sale of the item.

Distribution through department stores, chain stores and buying groups:

Advantages → Items can be sold at a higher price than to importers.→ Production of the item starts only after receipt of the order.→ Payments are more secure, because L/Cs or similar methods are used.

Disadvantages → It is hard to establish a relationship with buyers, because they often change. → It is difficult to get in touch with buyers, who are always very busy.→ Special conditions are required in labelling, packaging or pre-packing assortments for individual chain

store members.→ In the case of bad performance, late delivery or wrong follow up of instructions by the exporter,

buyers will make claims or cancel the order.

Distribution by home direct channels

Advantages → Volume orders which are fixed.→ Items can be sold at a higher price than to importers.→ Publicity for the items sold in their catalogues or other media is free.

Disadvantages → These companies may require exclusivity in the sale of the item.→ They often order items instead of product lines.→ Exporters are required to keep the ordered items in stock when offered for sale, at their own risk.

It is important to note that, by selecting one tradechannel, other channels are often automaticallyexcluded. One cannot have a relationship with adepartment or chain store while at the same timeentering the market with the same line of productsthrough an importer. This is often unacceptable to tradepartners and will definitely have an adverse effect onexport operations. It is, however, acceptable if theimporters are specialised in clearly different products ormarkets. For example, an exporter can sell jewelleryitems or lines within a single country to an importerwho is specialised in products for fashion boutiques andto another importer who specialises in gift items, or hecan sell a line to an importer in The Netherlands andsell the same line to a department store in Germany.

PromotionImporters, agents, retailers and other buyers travelextensively to international trade fairs to view newproducts, to decide upon suitable ranges for theirmarket and to keep up with the latest changes inclothing design, fashions, materials and colours. The Bijorhca in Paris (France), Chibi&Cart in Milan(Italy), International Spring Fair (ISF) in Birmingham,Inborgenta in Munich (Germany) are the mostimportant fairs for fashion jewellery in the EU. The Bijorhca (Paris) is the leading fair for fashionjewellery, with around 15,000 visitors and 350 exhibitors. The Inborgenta (Munich), with around25,000 visitors and 1,300 exhibitors and the BaselJewellery show are the leading fairs for preciousjewellery, where silver and costume jewellery can alsobe found. Another large fair is the Bisutex/Iberjoya inSpain. A list of the most important European fashionjewellery trade fairs can be found in EU StrategicMarketing Guide ‘Fashion jewellery’ (2000), section1.6. The addresses of all the trade fair organisers can befound in this survey in Appendix 5.

There is a permanent Trade Mart at the Jaarbeursexhibition complex in Utrecht which plays an important role in the trade in fashion jewellery in The Netherlands. Most of the important importers andmanufacturers have showrooms on the sixth floor of thecentre and special expositions are organised for theretail trade in March and September. The sixth floor isopen every Monday, and retailers can buy newmerchandise for their shops on a ‘cash and carry’ basis.They put the items in a basket, pay immediately andtake them away - a system which allows retailers to buysmall quantities frequently, although there are minimumorder requirements. For the exporter, a visit to thecentre can give a good impression of what is currentlyselling on the Dutch market. The cash and carry systemis also used in other countries e.g. the CPD inDüsseldorf (Germany), with large self-servicewholesalers.

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Fashion jewellery wholesalers in other selected EUmarkets are concentrated in the following areas:

United Kingdom : Greater London, Birmingham.France : Paris (third arrondissement near

the Place de la République) at theRue de temple.

Germany : Kaufbeuren (near Munich),Pforzheim (more focused onprecious jewellery).

Italy : Arrezzo, Vincenza, Milan.Spain : Barcelona (Rambla).

8 PRICES AND MARGINS

8.1 Prices and margins

PricesPrice is important in the fashion jewellery sector,but there is such a broad range of items, qualities,materials, designers, brands, raw materials and stylesthat it is almost impossible to give typical priceindications. Some ideas on prices are given in the EUStrategic Marketing Guide ‘Fashion jewellery’ (2000) inChapter 2.1. A rough distinction in prices can be madeaccording to market segments:

• Upper-end market segment → Fashion jewellerywith retail pricesvarying from US$ 75 - 250.

• Middle range market segment → Fashion jewellerywith retail pricesvarying from US$ 10 - 75.

• Low-end market segment → Fashion jewellerywith retail prices up to US$ 10.

On the other hand, for unique items made by a well-known designer or for imitations of items which are worn by famous stars, consumers are prepared topay extremely high prices.

In general, EU prices of fashion jewellery have declinedin recent years and are competitive compared to thosein the USA and Asia. In the past few years, prices ofsilver on the world market have decreased, whichmeans that silver jewellery has now become moreaffordable for a larger group of consumers, especiallyyoung people. In 1999, trade sources estimated thataround 90% of all (sterling) silver jewellery was sold atretail prices of up to US$ 100, with an average price ofUS$ 40 per item.

Price competition in the low-end and cheaper middlerange-levels of the EU fashion jewellery market hasbecome very fierce and average retail prices for manyproducts have fallen. In principle, importers maintain afairly close control over recommended retail prices,but an oversupply of goods and the growing success ofdiscounters have seriously disturbed the situation.Increased demand, especially from teenagers, combinedwith a high degree of specialisation has resulted in awider range of cheaper products coming on the market.In addition, large retailers, who benefit from largeeconomies of scale and increased efficiency, are in aposition to exert even more pressure on prices andmargins. This means that price remains an importantfactor in the low-end market segment.

Because of this, it is vital that promising new productsfrom exporters of developing countries offer extravalue. A new product can be of interest to a buyer eitherbecause it is a unique product or is a novelty, orbecause it could appeal to a particular market segment,in which case the price is of secondary importance. A number of other factors can also influence the price,such as:• the exclusiveness of the product;• the number of parties who handle your product

(agent, importer, shop, or consumer);• the volume of business; • the degree of risk (innovative design or fashion

trend product, new or known source);• the marketing services offered by different links in

the sales chain;• general economic conditions in the country

concerned (booming or depressed business);• availability of the jewellery item concerned and the

delivery time.

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Changeover to the Euro (€)The rate at which retailers in the EU are preparingthemselves for the changeover from their nationalcurrency to the Euro (€) is too slow. In July 2001, therewere still large and many smaller companies (SMEs),who postpone the switch to the end of 2001. For themthe changeover of IT (Information Technology) systemsshould be realised in a few months only. A number ofcompanies may be unable to meet the legal deadline of 1 January 2002.

MarginsMargins within the jewellery market are relatively highwhen compared to those of other consumer goods. Highmargins are in part justified by costly stocks whichretailers have to maintain and by the high risk factor offashion-sensitive products such as costume jewellery.To generate an adequate profit, the margins on costumejewellery for the low-end segment are higher than onmore expensive costume jewellery. The underlyingreason for this is that the margin is applied to very lowprices and therefore represents a smaller amount ofmoney, while the amount of work involved in handlingit remains the same.

The high incidence of shoplifting (department storeslose over 10% of jewellery stocked in their storesthrough thieving) is also a contributory factor to thenecessity for high margins. The typical mark-up forretailers now averages between 250 and 300%. This mark-up includes value-added tax (VAT), whichranges from 16 to 21% on fashion jewellery, varying

within the selected EU markets. Actual margins canvary widely around these averages depending on theexclusivity of the product, the level of demand and thetype of store through which items are sold.

In a similar way importer/wholesaler mark-ups averagebetween 70 and 100%, with the margins on silverjewellery slightly lower than those on costumejewellery. The typical average commission rate for anagent is 10 to 15%. Depending on the number of partieswho handle the product the net price achieved by anexporter can be multiplied by a factor of 6 - 7 times. An example of a calculation of the final consumer priceof costume jewellery and silver jewellery is givenbelow. In this case, an agent, importer and wholesalerall handle the product.

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8.2 Sources of price informationThe best way to obtain information about prices andprice levels in the EU is by visiting one of the majortrade fairs or cash and carry trade centres. Alternatively,comparisons can be found in the prices given incatalogues from mail order houses, large departmentstores or from company web sites. Window-shopping in the prospective market place, at several retail shops,is another good way of getting information aboutprices, fashions, colours, qualities and promotions.Other sources of price information on fashion jewelleryare listed below. The addresses can be found inAppendix 3.

Calculation of final consumer price Costume jewellery Silver jewellery

Export price (FOB) 100 100Agent’s mark up (e.g. costume: 15%, silver 10%) 15 10Agent’s selling price 115 110Import duties* (costume 4%, silver 2.5%) 5 3Other cost (e.g. transport, insurance, banking services) 20 20Landed cost 140 133Importer’s/wholesalers mark up (e.g. costume: 100%, silver 70% ) 140 93Importer’s/wholesaler’s selling price 280 226Retailer’s mark up including VAT (e.g. 19%) (e.g. costume 150%, silver 150%) 420 339Final consumer or retail price 700 678

Ratio CIF- Consumer price 7.0 6.8

* If the GSP tariff is applicable for your country, the import duty can be reduced to zero.

CIBJO - International Jewellery Confederation → Web site on trade and prices of EU jewellery industry:www.cibjo.org

The Silver Institute → Web site on the global developments in silver:www.silverinstitute.org

Jewellery Information Centre → Web site on the global developments in jewellery:mjsa.polygon.net

Accessorize → Web site of UK fashion jewellery chain store:www.accessorize.com

Bijou Brigitte → Web site of German fashion jewellery chain store:www.bijou-brigitte.com (in German)

9 OPPORTUNITIES FOR EXPORTERS

This chapter gives the main opportunities for exportersfrom developing countries and is meant to serve as abasis for the EU Strategic Marketing Guide “Fashionjewellery” (2000).

55

A growing market:• Working women are expected to increase in number.

In a growing economy with continued lifestylemarketing by industry, women tend to be more fashionconscious for a longer period of time.

• More items worn: Ultra-feminine and bohemian lookshave been favourable to jewellery wearing by allconsumers, who tend to wear multiples of the samejewellery item (e.g. three bracelets worn together).

• Items on different places: Younger people tend to wearrings and chains, often in silver, on different parts ofthe body, as in piercings, toe-rings, anklets and bellychains. Even jewellery on teeth, nails or on mobilephone become popular.

• New users: Increased demand for fashion jewellery byboys and young men, especially for silver, beaded neckchains and bracelets. In addition, children tend to wearcheap, fancy jewellery at younger ages than in the past.

These developments offer opportunities for all fashionjewellery items, neckwear, bracelets, rings, earrings, hairornaments. Fashion jewellery items with prospects in EUmarkets can be made of any material. The largest middlerange market segment may offer good opportunities.

A more fragmented market:The market has become fragmented because of increasedvariety in fashion trends, more new users of fashionjewellery and a gradual move upmarket, stimulated bythe intense price competition and oversupply of the pastfew years. Importers have become more specialised,purchasing different products from different areas. There is increasing demand for variations in material,sorts, sizes, colours, prices, quality levels, diversity indesigns and for innovative products, which have specialappeal to consumers.

A speciality is necessary:Exporters from developing countries can offer theseinnovative products, but items should differ from theusual type of jewellery, often from Asian countries,which is sold at street markets and has a cheap image.In order to distinguish themselves from others, exportersshould try to specialise in terms of:

→ Skills : specially-made jewellery, created byimaginative metal working, finishing ormaterial combinations.

→ Country : jewellery which is distinctive to itscountry of origin.

→ Material : the use of unique (natural) materials or theuse of a unique combination of materials.

→ Design : become a specialist in jewellery of uniqueor specific ethnic design from your ownculture.

→ Price : specialise in producing very cheapjewellery, to be sold at discount prices.

It is very important for exporters to match their specialitywith a particular consumer target group or seasonal trendin fashion. A clear distinctive image should beestablished, which should be well presented andmerchandised by the exporter, importer and all otherrelated parties in the trade channel.

Threats and difficulties for exporters:→ Innovations in current items and development of new

items are frequently required in order to maintain theinterest of demanding consumer with fast changingtastes. Good knowledge of the market is essential.

→ Neckwear and bracelets with stones and beads arevery fashionable now, but this can change within ayear. It is, therefore, difficult to start a long-terminvestment based on the current market situation.

→ Production capacity, keen pricing and fast delivery are needed to establish reliable relationships withimporters or other buyers. Good communication,flexibility and perfectionism are vital.

→ Competition is intense in the jewellery market andamateurism loses out to professionalism.

APPENDIX 1 DETAILED IMPORT/EXPORT STATISTICS

This section gives Eurostat statistics covering the imports and exports of the EU, the selected markets within the EU.Also, import statistics of the selected product groups are given. All export statistics can be found at the end of thissection. With regard to silver jewellery, it should be noted that precious silver jewellery is also included here. Trade statistics do not differentiate between cheap and expensive silver, which results in an overvaluation in the totalfashion jewellery imports and exports. Although in this market survey, the US$ is the basic currency unit used toindicate value, in these Eurostat statistics the values for dates after 1 January 1999 are also expressed in €. In 1999,the €/US$ exchange rate was US$ 1,06 for one €.

EUROPEAN UNION - TOTAL IMPORTS

EU imports of fashion jewellery by product group detailed, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 1,013,842 22,776 1,151,737 36,155 1,302,335 1,228,618 41,669Intra-EU 428,527 8,269 511,978 20,120 526,681 496,869 18,044Extra-EU 585,315 14,507 639,760 16,035 775,654 731,749 23,625Developing countries 394,301 10,615 437,740 11,883 555,029 523,612 16,647

Costume jewellery 556,283 11,024 654,904 12,477 705,803 665,852 15,334Costume-of metal 225,014 4,931 219,043 4,949 232,718 219,545 7,580Costume-of metal-clad-with glass 109,715 1,115 192,008 1,902 217,013 204,729 1,965Costume-of other material 99,802 3,028 119,725 3,652 136,178 128,470 3,694Costume-of metal-clad 114,008 1,850 116,026 1,886 110,844 104,570 1,992Cuff links and studs 7,745 100 8,102 88 9,050 8,538 103

Silver jewellery 277,683 1,272 311,549 5,453 360,640 340,226 3,643

Combs and hair ornaments 179,876 10,480 185,284 18,225 235,892 222,540 22,692Combs, hairslides-of rubber-plastic 57,020 3,888 64,696 11,383 81,923 77,286 6,673Combs, hairslides-of other material 54,363 2,277 60,479 2,724 75,422 71,153 9,743Hairpins, curling pins, curling grips 68,493 4,315 60,109 4,118 78,547 74,101 6,276

Source: Eurostat (2001)

56

EU imports of fashion jewellery by source, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 1,013,842 22,776 1,151,737 36,155 1,302,335 1,228,618 41,669Intra-EU 428,527 8,269 511,978 20,120 526,681 496,869 18,044Extra-EU 585,315 14,507 639,760 16,035 775,654 731,749 23,625Developing countries 394,301 10,615 437,740 11,883 555,029 523,612 16,647

China 146,015 7,061 167,694 8,069 242,864 229,117 11,820Thailand 127,074 846 137,048 841 150,139 141,641 1,246Austria 34,999 236 107,635 812 122,139 115,225 1,061Italy 86,507 1,928 99,697 6,122 101,268 95,536 3,773Germany 78,812 1,523 82,388 1,706 84,432 79,653 1,495South Korea 41,567 1,184 49,459 1,356 67,910 64,066 1,700USA 55,303 497 54,768 643 53,640 50,604 565Hong Kong 30,309 875 36,503 942 48,604 45,853 1,289Taiwan 50,697 1,894 44,368 1,797 45,865 43,269 1,780India 27,921 847 35,282 939 42,927 40,497 1,050United Kingdom 35,976 907 37,768 1,397 41,904 39,532 1,014France 45,243 969 44,272 723 38,375 36,203 743Ireland 56,559 737 41,147 440 36,594 34,523 489The Netherlands 26,717 663 25,854 630 29,255 27,599 922Spain 31,791 399 36,201 408 26,851 25,331 410Czech Republic 14,996 324 20,737 405 22,055 20,807 487Belgium 15,296 710 16,222 1,134 23,361 22,055 1,097Switzerland 11,708 31 14,086 51 19,540 18,434 43Poland 11,673 49 13,565 131 12,208 11,517 94Philippines 9,124 226 9,068 219 11,267 10,629 325Indonesia 14,908 129 10,301 166 9,523 8,984 211Mexico 9,172 20 9,364 28 9,481 8,944 22Denmark 4,751 83 7,930 115 7,579 7,150 235Finland 6,498 48 6,121 47 5,175 4,882 41Israel 3,879 16 5,571 38 4,716 4,449 32Sweden 2,762 46 3,835 83 4,398 4,149 86Greece 1,582 11 1,804 8 3,806 3,591 13Turkey 2,055 15 2,759 20 3,650 3,443 34Mauritius 2,917 23 3,310 21 3,151 2,973 30

Source: Eurostat

57

IMPORTS BY THE SELECTED MARKETS WITHIN THE EU

German imports of fashion jewellery by product group, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 201,833 3,751 281,005 4,255 330,262 311,568 5,165Intra-EU 54,480 909 117,422 1,334 130,061 122,699 1,271Extra-EU 147,353 2,842 163,583 2,921 200,201 188,869 3,894Developing countries 102,616 2,080 119,178 2,212 152,169 143,556 2,969

Costume jewellery 84,809 1,622 152,051 2,117 170,869 161,197 2,171Costume-of metal-clad-with glass 18,235 229 84,330 792 97,771 92,237 591Costume-of metal 35,902 710 36,428 661 36,875 34,788 718Costume-of other material 13,972 441 12,525 368 18,770 17,708 587Costume-of metal-clad 16,319 240 18,215 293 17,019 16,056 273Cuff links and studs 380 2 553 3 432 408 2Silver jewellery 81,500 144 93,918 159 110,137 103,903 240Combs and hair ornaments 35,524 1,985 35,036 1,979 49,256 46,468 2,754

UK imports of fashion jewellery by product group, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 231,224 5,794 226,908 11,911 248,467 234,403 13,830Intra-EU 69,475 1,434 59,277 7,614 57,516 54,260 8,511Extra-EU 161,749 4,360 167,630 4,297 190,952 180,143 5,319Developing countries 106,785 3,017 108,063 2,951 135,260 127,604 4,079

Costume jewellery 119,472 2,715 117,802 2,839 126,587 119,422 2,800Costume-of metal 68,301 1,508 46,934 1,242 56,758 53,545 1,338Costume-of other material 25,767 847 43,861 1,217 42,668 40,253 1,015Costume-of metal-clad-with glass 9,171 102 11,651 143 13,086 12,345 230Costume-of metal-clad 13,550 215 11,864 192 9,760 9,208 166Cuff links and studs 2,683 43 3,491 45 4,315 4,071 51Silver jewellery 57,490 266 61,021 219 62,439 58,905 180Combs and hair ornaments 54,263 2,813 48,085 8,853 59,441 56,076 10,850

58

French imports of fashion jewellery by product group, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 155,985 3,176 178,776 3,892 195,610 184,538 4,176Intra-EU 74,624 1,146 89,471 1,375 94,616 89,260 1,652Extra-EU 81,361 2,030 89,304 2,517 100,995 95,278 2,524Developing countries 60,495 1,719 66,067 2,155 76,426 72,100 2,215

Costume jewellery 101,046 1,754 117,345 2,129 124,770 117,708 2,265Costume-of metal 35,218 610 42,544 759 41,654 39,296 675Costume-of metal-clad 30,420 528 31,129 472 32,416 30,581 609Costume-of metal-clad-with glass 18,366 171 26,257 292 31,840 30,038 408Costume-of other material 16,131 424 16,580 590 17,926 16,911 572Cuff links and studs 912 21 833 16 935 882 1Silver jewellery 34,280 112 37,849 76 45,073 42,522 107Combs and hair ornaments 20,660 1,310 23,582 1,687 25,766 24,308 1,804

Source: Eurostat (2001)

Italian imports of fashion jewellery by product group, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 73,899 1,293 80,404 1,595 98,183 92,625 2,230Intra-EU 34,653 266 34,484 310 30,206 28,496 292Extra-EU 39,246 1,027 45,920 1,285 67,977 64,129 1,938Developing countries 26,192 817 31,820 1,063 48,958 46,187 1,632

Costume jewellery 45,044 722 47,867 780 49,253 46,465 1,058Costume-of metal 17,929 397 18,813 406 19,253 18,163 514Costume-of metal-clad-with glass 15,777 66 15,783 100 13,713 12,937 125Costume-of other material 7,012 199 8,726 187 13,306 12,553 350Costume-of metal-clad 3,630 59 4,016 87 2,407 2,271 60Cuff links and studs 697 1 529 0 573 541 9Silver jewellery 16,684 6 18,515 15 29,716 28,034 47Combs and hair ornaments 12,170 565 14,022 800 19,214 18,126 1,125

59

Spanish imports of fashion jewellery by product group, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 57,429 2,282 69,802 7,035 73,432 69,275 3,353Intra-EU 28,527 1,131 37,120 5,597 31,532 29,747 1,074Extra-EU 28,902 1,151 32,682 1,438 41,900 39,528 2,279Developing countries 20,734 945 25,045 1,248 33,034 31,164 2,050

Costume jewellery 32,390 1,127 37,358 1,419 38,932 36,728 945Costume-of metal 11,631 680 11,272 778 12,780 12,057 380Costume-of metal-clad 8,596 154 11,794 294 10,528 9,932 240Costume-of metal-clad-with glass 4,844 75 8,011 119 8,493 8,012 111Costume-of other material 6,973 216 5,925 226 6,856 6,468 212Cuff links and stud 346 2 356 2 275 259 2Silver jewellery 14,587 443 19,625 4,583 16,095 15,184 634Combs and hair ornaments 10,451 712 12,820 1,033 18,405 17,363 1,774

Netherlands imports of fashion jewellery by product group, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 54,395 1,550 52,806 2,120 64,716 61,053 2,106Intra-EU 21,020 575 19,234 970 19,961 18,831 471Extra-EU 33,375 975 33,572 1,150 44,755 42,222 1,635Developing countries 14,119 442 14,088 525 20,193 19,050 865

Costume jewellery 33,792 731 32,067 797 35,777 33,752 907Costume-of metal 10,819 250 11,282 269 13,266 12,515 392Costume-of metal-clad 11,831 141 9,695 100 9,685 9,137 121Costume-of other material 7,649 296 7,589 354 7,846 7,402 280Costume-of metal-clad-with glass 3,270 43 3,382 74 4,736 4,468 112Cuff links and studs 223 1 119 0 244 230 2Silver jewellery 11,898 26 11,510 30 15,417 14,544 65Combs and hair ornaments 8,706 793 9,229 1,293 13,522 12,757 1,134

Source: Eurostat (2001)

60

EU IMPORTS OF SELECTED PRODUCT GROUPS BY SOURCE, 1997 -1999, Tonnes and US$/ € 1,000

These tables list only the most important 3 suppliers and focus on imports from developing countries. All of the latter countries,which are eligible for CBI assistance, are indicated in italics.

COSTUME JEWELLERY - of METAL

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 225,014 4,931 219,043 4,949 232,718 219,545 7,580Intra-EU 65,850 1,394 71,711 1,739 72,920 68,792 1,204Extra-EU 159,164 3,537 147,332 3,210 159,798 150,753 6,376Developing countries 101,225 2,598 96,636 2,438 108,141 102,020 2,940Top 3 suppliers:China 56,436 1,684 47,948 1,452 54,147 51,082 1,809South Korea 20,398 506 23,955 542 29,663 27,984 664Germany 10,351 111 12,540 251 15,665 14,778 161Developing countries:Thailand 13,185 56 13,553 83 10,734 10,126 68India 5,270 219 6,067 252 7,267 6,856 259Philippines 1,340 38 1,514 47 1,857 1,752 53Tunisia 302 2 228 1 1,009 952 5Indonesia 320 11 440 20 403 380 26South Africa 895 12 463 4 384 362 4Mauritius 539 2 382 2 293 276 1Turkey 122 4 93 1 286 270 2Mexico 544 7 365 2 259 244 3Costa Rica 0 0 1 0 251 237 3

Source: Eurostat (2001)

COSTUME JEWELLERY - of METAL - CLAD - WITH GLASS

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 109,715 1,115 192,008 1,902 217,013 204,729 1,965Intra-EU 71,595 474 142,043 1,025 155,398 146,602 849Extra-EU 38,121 641 49,965 877 61,615 58,127 1,116Developing countries 24,610 466 33,854 681 43,680 41,208 878Top 3 suppliers:Austria 16,133 77 87,453 641 104,925 98,986 408Ireland 18,876 90 18,799 110 19,426 18,326 102China 8,579 184 13,805 292 16,801 15,850 378Developing countries:Thailand 9,337 83 10,235 101 12,599 11,886 116India 4,099 148 6,890 219 9,087 8,573 288South Korea 1,633 32 1,646 37 3,602 3,398 64Philippines 87 2 160 5 558 526 10Tunisia 6 0 169 3 198 187 3Morocco 67 1 71 1 148 140 2Indonesia 159 5 202 10 127 120 10Pakistan 41 1 41 1 64 60 1Lebanon 0 0 0 0 59 56 1Vietnam 0 0 18 1 46 43 1

Source: Eurostat (2001)

61

COSTUME JEWELLERY - of OTHER MATERIAL

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 99,802 3,028 119,725 3,652 136,178 128,470 3,694Intra-EU 45,333 1,102 44,787 1,235 44,008 41,517 944Extra-EU 54,468 1,926 74,938 2,417 92,170 86,953 2,750Developing countries 30,757 1,305 42,301 1,587 62,138 58,621 2,115

Top 3 suppliers:China 15,136 787 22,819 974 33,576 31,675 1,299South Korea 3,409 86 5,050 122 8,607 8,120 167USA 6,093 93 12,617 254 8,382 7,908 73Developing countries:India 3,775 182 5,548 221 7,524 7,098 253Philippines 4,002 105 3,470 100 6,300 5,943 193Thailand 1,104 12 2,542 25 2,653 2,503 22Indonesia 975 66 852 92 1,449 1,367 142Mauritius 36 0 342 1 213 201 1Mexico 166 6 125 2 210 198 2South Africa 192 2 320 6 177 167 7Peru 324 17 259 15 177 167 10Brazil 217 5 106 4 121 114 5Turkey 27 1 64 6 100 94 5

Source: Eurostat (2001)

COSTUME JEWELLERY - of METAL - CLAD

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 114,008 1,850 116,026 1,886 110,844 104,570 1,992Intra-EU 59,772 639 56,958 627 48,307 45,573 759Extra-EU 54,235 1,211 59,069 1,259 62,537 58,997 1,233Developing countries 33,337 947 39,176 1,012 40,952 38,634 985

Top 3 suppliers:China 16,803 569 19,899 577 21,977 20,733 603The Netherlands 10,751 109 11,098 97 10,742 10,134 101South Korea 8,574 246 9,203 255 9,082 8,568 235Developing countries:Thailand 3,643 32 4,129 28 4,515 4,259 31India 1,449 67 2,379 95 1,856 1,751 65Costa Rica 688 3 846 4 655 618 3Philippines 234 8 260 5 497 469 13Tunisia 8 1 7 1 386 364 1South Africa 20 1 298 7 349 329 6Colombia 425 1 582 1 312 294 1Ecuador 0 0 203 10 276 260 13Mauritius 446 2 246 1 199 188 1Mexico 190 0 146 1 171 161 1

Source: Eurostat (2001)

62

CUFF LINKS and STUDS

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 7,745 100 8,102 88 9,050 8,538 103Intra-EU 4,764 67 4,337 46 3,995 3,769 25Extra-EU 2,981 33 3,765 42 5,055 4,769 78Developing countries 1,037 17 1,205 19 2,011 1,897 46Top 3 suppliers:Germany 2,227 43 1,855 18 1,506 1,421 7China 817 16 764 18 1,434 1,353 37United Kingdom 1,284 13 1,086 8 1,128 1,064 8Developing countries:Thailand 107 1 141 1 179 169 1South Korea 67 1 120 1 178 168 1Indonesia 10 0 17 1 85 80 1South Africa 6 0 16 1 53 50 1Mexico 12 0 56 1 46 43 1India 1 0 16 0 15 14 2Philippines 0 0 6 0 3 3 0

Source: Eurostat (2001)

SILVER JEWELLERY

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 277,683 1,272 311,549 5,453 360,640 340,226 3,643Intra-EU 98,929 903 111,673 5,015 120,540 113,717 2,638Extra-EU 178,754 369 199,876 438 240,100 226,509 1,005Developing countries 139,998 333 156,417 317 191,744 180,891 924Top 3 suppliers:Thailand 90,799 155 99,870 181 113,760 107,321 655Italy 49,276 667 54,404 4,769 57,517 54,261 2,323China 8,338 18 16,089 41 35,404 33,400 120Developing countries:India 10,451 88 12,456 41 15,650 14,764 87Mexico 8,226 37 8,625 23 8,775 8,278 17Indonesia 12,978 29 8,530 23 7,309 6,895 21Turkey 1,633 2 2,252 2 2,171 2,048 2Mauritius 1,388 2 1,808 2 1,841 1,737 12Sri Lanka 1,714 1 1,788 1 1,425 1,344 1South Korea 478 1 825 2 991 935 1Nepal 580 1 935 2 904 853 1Philippines 944 1 1,177 1 584 551 1Tunisia 6 0 0 0 583 550 2Chile 267 1 121 1 240 226 1Peru 166 1 119 1 174 164 5Panama 9 0 59 1 129 122 0South Africa 103 1 43 1 122 115 1Egypt 42 1 35 0 116 109 2Malaysia 47 1 24 0 83 78 1Cuba 1 0 0 0 70 66 1Vietnam 53 1 16 0 53 50 1Pakistan 200 2 74 1 52 49 1Oman 0 0 0 0 45 42 1Dominican Republic 10 0 16 0 43 41 1

Source: Eurostat (2001)

63

COMBS and HAIR ORNAMENTS

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 179,876 10,480 185,284 18,225 235,892 222,540 22,692Extra-EU 97,592 6,790 104,814 7,792 154,379 145,641 11,067Developing countries 63,335 4,949 68,150 5,829 106,361 100,341 8,759Top 3 suppliers:China 39,906 3,803 46,370 4,715 79,525 75,024 7,574Taiwan 21,232 1,226 20,873 1,182 26,820 25,302 1,225Germany 14,567 970 17,500 1,138 16,579 15,641 990Developing countries:South Korea 7,008 314 8,660 397 15,787 14,893 568Thailand 8,899 507 6,577 423 5,700 5,377 354India 2,876 143 1,926 111 1,527 1,441 96Philippines 2,517 72 2,481 62 1,468 1,385 56Turkey 84 5 213 10 961 907 24Mauritius 507 17 519 15 600 566 17Colombia 179 35 252 46 206 194 32Brazil 73 1 176 2 118 111 1Tunisia 159 4 177 6 92 87 7Indonesia 373 18 57 6 87 82 7St, Lucia 281 10 225 8 58 55 3Sri Lanka 29 1 16 1 35 33 1

Source: Eurostat (2001)

EUROPEAN UNION - TOTAL IMPORTS FROM DEVELOPING COUNTRIES in Tonnes and US$/€ 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 1,013,842 118,776 1,151,737 36,155 1,302,335 1,228,618 41,669Extra-EU 585,315 14,507 639,760 16,035 775,654 731,749 23,625Developing countries 394,301 10,615 437,740 11,883 555,029 523,612 16,647China 146,015 7,061 167,694 8,069 242,864 229,117 11,820Thailand 127,074 846 137,048 841 150,139 141,641 1,246South Korea 41,567 1,184 49,459 1,356 67,910 64,066 1,700India 27,921 847 35,282 939 42,927 40,497 1,050Philippines 9,124 226 9,068 219 11,267 10,629 325Indonesia 14,908 129 10,301 166 9,523 8,984 211Mexico 9,172 20 9,364 28 9,481 8,944 22Turkey 2,055 15 2,759 20 3,650 3,443 34Mauritius 2,917 23 3,310 21 3,151 2,973 30Tunisia 488 6 606 10 2,292 2,162 18Sri Lanka 1,850 1 1,923 1 1,609 1,518 2South Africa 1,348 18 1,332 19 1,106 1,043 19Nepal 705 3 1,067 4 1,080 1,019 7Costa Rica 711 3 865 4 916 864 6Colombia 1,026 36 988 47 660 623 33Brazil 658 7 660 10 496 468 6Peru 810 40 567 25 488 460 22Morocco 405 5 245 4 434 409 5Ecuador 365 10 269 14 390 368 14Pakistan 522 17 321 7 334 315 9Vietnam 188 4 263 9 322 304 5Egypt 405 15 308 10 306 289 9Chile 357 1 169 1 290 274 0Niger 227 0 297 0 283 267 0Guatemala 209 3 255 4 219 207 2North Korea 80 2 144 2 213 201 6

Source: Eurostat (2001)

64

EUROPEAN UNION - EXPORTS

EU exports of fashion jewellery by EU country, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 1,136,853 11,984 1,150,144 12,909 1,254,187 1,183,195 15,434Italy 374,798 2,846 390,906 2,967 472,006 445,289 3,145Austria 168,885 1,035 163,548 824 174,198 164,338 775France 143,286 1,738 142,556 1,795 146,013 137,748 1,731Germany 114,815 1,282 121,989 1,187 126,697 119,525 1,256United Kingdom 119,944 1,727 103,733 2,562 115,091 108,576 4,514Spain 67,539 1,118 77,017 981 63,564 59,966 831Netherlands 31,509 778 33,040 860 40,383 38,097 1,229Ireland 36,237 194 30,311 251 30,924 29,174 201Denmark 27,261 101 26,338 151 23,095 21,788 148Belgium & Luxembourg 22,678 855 21,164 928 23,309 21,990 857Greece 7,043 84 18,883 130 16,575 15,637 463Finland 12,298 83 10,791 84 10,886 10,270 65Sweden 8,101 123 7,291 139 8,938 8,432 172Portugal 2,465 20 2,577 50 2,510 2,368 47

Source: Eurostat (2001)

EU exports of fashion jewellery by product group, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 1,136,853 11,984 1,150,144 12,909 1,254,187 1,183,195 15,434Extra-EU 578,635 4,761 552,730 4,663 637,936 601,826 4,861Costume jewellery 597,712 6,290 580,390 6,161 584,466 551,383 8,927Costume-metal 210,887 2,510 196,920 2,492 205,235 193,618 3,910Costume-metal-clad-with glass 180,767 1,009 175,019 831 180,549 170,329 1,831Costume-of other material 93,000 1,795 95,594 1,876 91,820 86,623 2,189Costume-of metal-clad 93,766 822 94,591 798 88,351 83,350 848Cuff links and studs 19,291 154 18,266 164 18,511 17,463 149Silver jewellery 412,614 969 445,051 1,028 540,206 509,628 857Combs and hair ornaments 126,527 4,725 124,703 5,720 129,515 122,184 5,650

Source: Eurostat (2001)

Italian exports of fashion jewellery by product group, 1997-1999 in tonnes and US$ / € 1,000

1997 1998 1999value US$ volume value US$ volume value US$ value € volume

Total 374,798 2,846 390,906 2,967 472,006 445,289 3,145Extra-EU 253,974 1,599 257,490 1,701 327,347 308,818 1,834Costume jewellery 81,126 1,782 78,495 1,888 72,003 67,927 1,877Costume-of metal 32,750 744 32,601 878 29,079 27,433 584Costume-of other material 28,012 789 27,311 760 25,167 23,742 937Costume-metal-clad 10,036 141 9,920 163 9,344 8,815 212Costume-metal-clad-with glass 7,639 46 6,847 65 6,888 6,498 91Cuff links and studs 2,691 62 1,817 22 1,525 1,439 53Silver jewellery 271,992 229 289,738 213 374,908 353,687 454Combs and hair ornaments 21,680 835 22,672 866 25,096 23,675 814

Source: Eurostat (2001)

65

APPENDIX 2 STANDARDS ORGANISATIONS

INTERNATIONALInternational Standardisation Organisation (ISO)Address: P.O. Box 56, CH-1211 Geneva, SwitzerlandTelephone: + 41 (0) 22 749 011 1Fax: + 41 (0) 22 733 343 0E-mail: central@iso.ch

EUROPEAN UNIONEuropean Committee for Normalisation (CEN)Address: Rue de Strassart 36, 1050 Brussel, BelgiumTelephone: + 32 (0) 2 519 681 1Fax: + 32 (0) 2 519 681 9Internet: www.cenclcbel.be

THE NETHERLANDSNetherlands Standardisation Institute(Nederlands Normalisatie Instituut (NNI))Address: Kalfjeslaan 2, P.O. Box 5059, 2600 GB Delft,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 15 269 039 0Telefax: + 31 (0) 15 269 019 0Internet: www.nni.nl

UNITED KINGDOMBritish Standards Institution (BSI)Address: 389 Chiswick High Road, London W4 4AL,

United KingdomTelephone: + 44 (0) 181 996 900 0Telefax: + 44 (0) 181 996 740 0E-mail: info@bsi.org.uk

FRANCEAssociation Française de Normalisation (AFNOR)Address: Tour Europe, F-92049 Paris la Défense Cedex,

FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 429 155 55Telefax: + 33 (0) 1 429 156 5

GERMANYDeutsches Institut für Normung (DIN)Address: Burggrafenstrasse 6, D-10787 Berlin,

GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 30 260 10Telefax: + 49 (0) 30 260 112 31E-mail: postmaster@din.de

ITALYEnte Nazionale Italiano di Unificazione (UNI)Address: Via Battistotti Sassi 11/b, 1-20133 Milano,

ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 2 700 241Telefax: + 39 (0) 2 701 061 06E-mail: webmaster@uni.unicei.it

SPAINAssociacion Española de Normalizacion y Certificación(AENOR)Address: Génova 6, E-28004 Madrid, SpainTelephone: + 34 (0) 1 432 600 0Telefax: + 34 (0) 1 310 497 6

66

APPENDIX 3 SOURCES OF PRICE INFORMATION

International Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO)Address: 1185 Avenue of the Americas, 30th Floor,

New York, 10036 USATelephone: + 1 (0) 212 768 877 7Fax: + 1 (0) 212 274 026 5E-mail: cibjo@jewelofam.orgInternet: www.cibjo.org

The Silver InstituteAddress: 1112 Sixteenth Street, N.W., suite 240,

Washington D.C., 20036 USATelephone: + 1 (0) 202 835 018 5Fax: + 1 (0) 202 835 015 5E-mail: info@silverinstitute.orgInternet: www.silverinstitute.org

Jewellery Information Center (MJSA)Address: 1185 Avenue of the Americas, 30th Floor,

New York, 10036 USATelephone: + 1 (0) 212 398 231 9Fax: + 1 (0) 212 398 232 4E-mail: jic@jewelryinfo.orgInternet: www.mjsa.polygon.net

67

APPENDIX 4 TRADE ASSOCIATIONS

INTERNATIONALWorld Gold CouncilAddress: 45 Pall Mall, London SW1Y 5JG,

United KingdomTelephone: + 44 (0) 20 793 051 71Fax: + 44 (0) 20 783 965 61E-mail: info@gold.orgInternet: www.gold.org

International Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO)Address: 1185 Avenue of the Americas, 30th Floor,

New York, 10036 USATelephone: + 1 (0) 212 768 877 7Fax: + 1 (0) 212 274 026 5E-mail: cibjo@jewelofam.orgInternet: www.cibjo.org

FRANCEChambre Syndicale de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie etOrfevrièreFrench Trade Association of jewellery, watches, gift items,diamonds and precious stonesAddress: 58 rue de Louvre, 75002 Paris, FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 402 698 00Fax: + 33 (0) 1 402 629 51Internet: www.bjo-france.com

Féderation Nationale des H.B.J.O. DétaillantsFrench retail organisation of watches, jewellery and gift items Address: 29 Rue St Martin, 75003 Paris, FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 445 434 00Fax: + 33 (0) 1 450 834 07Internet: www.frenchjewelry.com

GERMANYVereinigung der Bundesverbande des Deutschen Schmuckund Silberwarengewerbes (VDSI)German Trade Association of jewellery and silverwareAddress: Industriehaus, Poststrasse 1, 75172 Pforzheim,

GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 7231 330 41Fax: + 49 (0) 7231 355 887E-mail: info@bv-schmuck-uhren.de Internet: www.bv-schmuck-uhren.de

ITALYFederatione Nazionale Grossisti Orafi GioiellieriArgentieri Italian importers/wholesalers association of jewelleryAddress: Piazza G.G. Belli 2, 00153 Rome, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 6 589 828 0Fax: + 39 (0) 6 589 847 3E-mail: cavt@tin.it

CONFEDORAFIItalian trade association of jewellery, watches, gift items andprecious stonesAddress: Viale Trastevere 108, 00153 Rome, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 6 581 361 3Fax: + 39 (0) 6 581 452 3E-mail: confedorafi.roma@confedorafi.comInternet: www.confedorafi.com

THE NETHERLANDSFederatie Goud en Zilver Address: Postbus 904, 2270 AX Voorburg,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 70 386 777 7Fax: + 31 (0) 70 387 104 7E-mail: sierinfo@xs4all.nlInternet: www.sieradeninfo.nl

SPAINAsociación Española de Joyeros, Plateros y RelojerosSpanish association for jewellery and watchesAddress: Principe de Vergara 74, 28006 Madrid, SpainTelephone: + 34 (0) 1 411 381 3 Fax: + 34 (0) 1 411 386 3Internet: www.joyeria-guia.com

Asociación Española de Gemologia-JoyeriaSpanish association for jewellery and precious stonesAddress Paseo de Gracia 64, 08007 Barcelona, SpainTelephone + 34 (0) 3 215 139 8Fax + 34 (0) 3 215 138 7

UNITED KINGDOMThe Jewellery Distributors’ Association/National Association of Goldsmiths Address Federation House, 10 Vyse Street,

Birmingham B18 4BR, United KingdomTelephone + 44 (0) 121 236 265 7Fax + 44 (0) 121 236 392 1E-mail: lynn.snead@bjgfadmin.demon.co.ukInternet: www.teg.co.uk

International Confederation of Jewellery, Silverware,Diamonds, Pearls and StonesAddress 78A Luke Street, EC2A 4PY London,

United KingdomTelephone + 44 (0) 207 613 424 3Fax + 44 (0) 207 729 579 2E-mail: shop@peplows.uknet.comInternet: www.jewelooers.co.uk

68

APPENDIX 5 TRADE FAIR ORGANISERS

FRANCEBijorhca / Éclat du Mode (annual)Address: Miller Freeman France, 70 rue Rivay,

92532 Levallois-Perret Cedex, FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 475 652 82Fax: + 33 (0) 1 475 624 92E-mail: info@bijorhca.comInternet: www.bijorhca.com

GERMANYInhorgenta (annual)Address: Messe München Gmbh, Messegelände,

D-81823 Munich, GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 89 949 113 98Fax: + 49 (0) 89 949 113 99E-mail: info@inhorgenta.deInternet: www.inhorgenta.com

ITALYChibi & Chart (annual) Address: Fiera Internazionale Milano,

Largo Domodossola 1, 20145 Milano, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 02 485 504 04Fax: + 39 (0) 02 499 777 12E-mail: emazzocchi@fmi.itInternet: www.fmi.it

THE NETHERLANDSTrade Mart (biennial) Address: Jaarbeurs Utrecht, P.O. Box 8500,

3503 RM Utrecht, The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 30 295 570 5Fax: + 31 (0) 30 295 540 9E-mail: bovensmn@JaarbeursUtrecht.nlInternet: www.trademart.nl

SPAINBisutex / Iberjoya (annual) Address: IFEMA, Feria de Madrid,

Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I, 28042 Madrid,Spain

Telephone: + 34 (0) 91 722 502 2 / 91Fax: + 34 (0) 91 722 579 2E-mail: iberjoya@ifema.esInternet: www.intergift.ifema.es

UNITED KINGDOMSpring Fair Birmingham (annual) Address: Trade Promotion Services Ltd.,

Exhibition House, Warren Lane,London SE18 6BW, UK

Telephone: + 44 (0) 1580 21 271 7Fax: + 44 (0) 181 855 350 6E-mail: ne1@writeangle.co.ukInternet: www.springfair.com

International Jewellery, London (annual) Address: Reed Exhibitions, Oriel House,

26 The Quadrant, GB-Richmond,Surrey TW9 1DL, UK

Telephone: + 44 (0) 208 910 716 1Fax: + 44 (0) 208 910 793 0E-mail: vane.wanstall@reedexpo.co.ukInternet: www.jewellerylondon.com

69

APPENDIX 6 TRADE PRESS

INTERNATIONALJCK MagazineAddress: Jewellers’Circular Keystone, P.O. Box 2085,

Radmore/PA 1980-9585, USATelephone: + 1 (0) 610 694 496 0Fax: + 1 (0) 610 694 497 8E-mail: info@jck.comInternet: www.jck.com

Bead & ButtonAddress: Editor Bead and Button, P.O. Box 1612,

Waukesha, W1, 53187-1612 USATelephone: + 1 (0) 262 796 877 6Fax: + 1 (0) 262 796 878 1E-mail: akorach@beadandbutton.comInternet: www.beadandbutton.com

EUROPEEuropa StarAddress: Europa Star, 25 route des Acacias, P.O. Box 30,

CH-1211 Geneva 24, SwitzerlandTelephone: + 41 (0) 22 307 783 7Fax: + 41 (0) 22 300 374 8Internet: mgenoud@europastar.comInternet: www.europastar.com

GERMANYSchmuck - MagazinAddress: Ebner Verlag Verlag, Karlstrasse 169,

DE-89077 Ulm, GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 731 152 013 9Fax: + 49 (0) 731 152 017 1E-mail: chronos@ebnerverlag.deInternet: www.watchbizz.de

German Fashion GuideAddress: Gisbert Hennesen Verlag GmbH,

Königsallee 70, 4000 Düsseldorf, GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 221 132 375Fax: + 49 (0) 221 132 360

FRANCELe BijoutierAddress: 81, Avenue de Clichy, 75009 Paris, FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 533 211 55Fax: + 33 (0) 1 533 211 57E-mail: g.goncalves@le-bijoutier-horloger.comInternet: www. le-bijoutier-horloger.com

ITALYAccessori Magazine - CollezioniAddress: Zanfi Editori Srl, P.O. Box 70,

41100 Modena CPO, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 59 891 700Fax: + 39 (0) 59 891 701Internet: www.collezionionline.com

Ornamenta Address: Matex A.G.E. srl, Piazza Giulio Cesare 14,

20145 Milan, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 02 469 048 8Fax: + 39 (0) 02 498 450 6E-mail: matex_age@iol.itInternet: www.pabloefebo.it

Moda & Bijoux Address: Edizione Gold Srl, Viale Zara 7/9,

20159 Milan, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 02 668 867 4Fax: + 39 (0) 02 606 298

Bigotteria Esercente l’Impresa Address: Giornalistica Sogesi, Via Desenzano 8,

20146 Milan, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 02 706 017 73Fax: + 39 (0) 02 487 014 19

THE NETHERLANDSJewels & WatchesAddress: Quality Puiblishing B.V., P.O. Box 4323,

3006 AH Rotterdam, The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 10 452 444 5Fax: + 31 (0) 10 453 156 2E-mail: info@jewels-and-watches.comInternet: www.jewels-and-watches.com

Imitch - Hair Fashion Address: VipMedia Publishing, Willemstraat 23,

4811 AJ Breda, The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 76 530 171 7Fax: + 31 (0) 76 514 453 1Internet: www.haarnet.nlInternet: hairboutique.com (with links to international

sites on hair accessories)

SPAINTrend Book/Fashion Jewellery Accessories Address: Institut Balear de Disseny,

General Ricardo Ortega 4,07006 Palma de Mallorca, Spain

Telephone: + 34 (0) 971 774 031Fax: + 34 (0) 971 465 601E-mail: idisseny@biTelephone.esInternet: www.idi.es

UNITED KINGDOMBritish Jewellery / Retail JewelleryAddress: 67 Clerkenwell Road, London EC1R 5BH,

United KingdomTelephone: + 44 (0) 1732 362 445Fax: + 44 (0) 1732 362 447E-mail: info@britishjewellery.co.ukInternet: www.britishjewellery.co.uk

70

APPENDIX 7 TRADE PROMOTION ORGANISATIONS

INTERNATIONALInternational Trade Center (ITC)Market News Service (MNS)Division of Product and Market Development Address: Palais des Nations, P.O. Box 10,

1211 Geneva 10, SwitzerlandTelephone: + 41 (0) 22 730 011 1Fax: + 41 (0) 22 733 443 9E-mail: itcreg@intracen.orgInternet: www.intracen.org

AUSTRIAAustria Federal Economic ChamberAddress: Wiener Hauptstrasse 63, 1045 Vienna, AustriaTelephone: + 43 (0) 1 501 050Fax: + 43 (0) 1 502 062 50E-mail: hotline@wkoe.wk.or.atInternet: www.wk.or.at

DENMARKThe Danish Import Promotion Office for products fromdeveloping countries (DIPO)Address: Danish Chamber of Commerce, Børsen,

1217 Copenhagen K, DenmarkTelephone: + 45 (0) 33 950 500Fax: + 45 (0) 33 325 216E-mail: dok@commerce.dkInternet: www.commerce.dk

FRANCECOLEACPAddress: 5 Rue de la Corderie, Centra 342,

94586 Rungis Cedex, FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 418 002 10Fax: + 33 (0) 1 418 002 19E-mail: coleacp@coleacp.orgInternet: www.coleacp.org

GERMANYBFAI, Federal Office of Foreign Trade Information,Germany Berlin Office Address: Scharnhornstrasse 36, P.O. Box 650268,

13302 Berlin, Germany Telephone: + 49 (0) 30 201 452 00Fax: + 49 (0) 30 201 452 04Internet: www.bfai.de

Köln OfficeAddress: Agrippastrasse 87-93, P.O. Box 100522,

50455 Köln, Germany Telephone: + 49 (0) 221 205 70Fax: + 49 (0) 221 205 721 2E-mail: bfai@compuserve.com

ITALYICE(National Institute for Foreign Trade)Address: Via Liszt 21, 00144 Rome, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 6 599 21Fax: + 39 (0) 6 599 269 00E-mail: sitoece@ice.itInternet: www.ice.it

THE NETHERLANDSCBI(Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developingcountries)Address: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 10 201 343 4Fax: + 31 (0) 10 411 408 1E-mail: cbi@cbi.nlInternet: www.cbi.nl

NORWAYThe Norwegian Agency for Development Cooperation(NORAD)Address: Tolbugaten 31, P.O. Box 8034 Deo, Oslo,

NorwayTelephone: + 47 (0) 22 314 400Fax: + 47 (0) 22 314 403E-mail: postmottak@oslo.norad.telemax.no

SWEDENThe Swedish International Development CooperationAgency (SIDA)Department for Infrastructure & Economic CooperationAddress: S-105 25 Stockholm, SwedenTelephone: + 46 (0) 8 698 500 0Fax: + 46 (0) 8 208 864

SWITZERLANDSIPPO(Swiss Office for Trade Promotion) Address: Stampsenbachstrasse 85, 8035 Zürich,

SwitzerlandTelephone: + 41 (0) 1 365 515 1Telefax: + 41 (0) 1 365 522 1E-mail: info@sippo.chInternet: www.sippo.ch

71

APPENDIX 8 OTHER USEFUL ADDRESSES

INTERNATIONALConvention on International Trade in Endangered Species(CITES)Address: 15 Chemin des Animones, 1219 Chatelet,

Geneva, SwitzerlandTelephone: + 41 (0) 22 979 913 9Fax: + 41 (0) 22 797 341 7Internet: www.cites.org

United Nations International Labour Organisation (ILO)Address: 4, Route des Morillons, CH-1211 Geneva 22,

SwitzerlandTelephone: + 41 (0) 22 799 611 1Fax: + 41 (0) 22 798 635 8Internet: www.ilo.org

EUROPEAN UNIONInternational Chamber of CommerceAddress: 38, cours Albert 1er, 75008 Paris, FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 495 328 28Fax: + 33 (0) 1 495 329 42E-mail: eurocham@mail.interpac.beInternet: www.ecib.com

International Trade Centre (ITC)Address: Palais des Nations, P.O. Box 10,

1211 Geneva 10, SwitzerlandTelephone: + 41 (0) 22 730 011 1Fax: + 41 (0) 22 733 443 9E-mail: itcreg@intracen.orgInternet: www.intracen.org

Eurostat, Statistical Bureau of the European Union Address: Rue Alcide de Gasperi, L-2920 Luxembourg,

LuxembourgTelephone: + 352 (0) 4301 345 67Fax: + 352 (0) 4301 301 5E-mail: agnesn@eurostat.datashop.luInternet: www.eurostat.eu.int/eurostat.html

Corporate Intelligence Group (CIG) / MintelAddress: 18-19 Long Lane, London EC1A 9PL,

United KingdomTelephone: + 44 (0) 207 760 659 32Fax: + 44 (0) 171 696 900 4Internet: www.cior.com

GTZ (German Agency for Technical Cooperation)Address: Dag-Hammerskjöld-weg 1-5, P.O. Box 5180,

65726 Eschborn, GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 6196 790 000Fax: + 49 (0) 6196 797 414E-mail: postmaster@gtz.de

Prüf- und Forschungsinstitut PirmasensAddress: Hans-Sachs-Straße 2, D-66955 Pirmasens,

GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 6331 740 16Fax: + 49 (0) 6331 745 07

THE NETHERLANDSCBICentre for the Promotion of Imports from developingcountriesAddress: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 10 201 343 4Fax: + 31 (0) 10 411 408 1E-mail: cbi@cbi.nlInternet: www.cbi.nl

Belasting Dienst Douane (Customs)Dept. External and Internal CommunicationAddress: P.O. Box 50964, 3007 BG Rotterdam,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 10 290 494 9Specialinformationnumber: + 31 (0) 800 014 3Fax: + 31 (0) 10 2904875Internet: www.douane.nl

Benelux Octrooibureau (Design and brand registration office for The Netherlands,Benelux and the EU)Address: Scheveningseweg 82, 2517 KZ The Hague,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 70 352 750 0Fax: + 31 (0) 70 352 758 9Internet: www.octrooibureau.nl

Stichting MilieukeurContactpoint for the EU Ecolabel and for the Milieukeur labelAddress: Eisenhowerlaan 150, 2517 KP Den Haag,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 70 358 630 0Fax: + 31 (0) 70 350 251 7E-mail: ecomarkt@ecomarkt.nlInternet: www.milieukeur.nl

CBI / AccessGuidec/o CBI, Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developingcountriesAddress: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 10 2013434Fax: + 31 (0) 10 4114081E-mail: cbi@accessguide.nlInternet: www.cbi.nl/accessguide

72

APPENDIX 9 LIST OF DEVELOPING COUNTRIES

AfghanistanAlbaniaAlgeriaAngolaAnguillaAntigua and BarbudaArgentinaArmeniaAzerbaijanBahrain

X BangladeshBarbadosBelize

X Benin X BhutanX Bolivia

Bosnia & Herzegovina X Botswana

Brazil X Burkina Faso

BurundiCambodia

X Cameroon X Cape Verde

Central African rep.ChadChileChina

X ColombiaComorosCongo Cook Islands

X Costa RicaX Côte d’Ivoire

Croatia CubaDjiboutiDominica

X Dominican republicX EcuadorX Egypt X El Salvador

Equatorial Guinea X EritreaX Ethiopia

FijiGabon

X GambiaGeorgia

X Ghana

73

GrenadaX Guatemala

GuineaGuinea-BissauGuyana

X HaitiX HondurasX IndiaX Indonesia

IranIraq

X JamaicaX Jordan

KazakstanX Kenya

KiribatiKorea, SouthKyrghyz Rep.Laos

X LebanonLesothoLiberiaMacedonia

X Madagascar X Malawi

MalaysiaMaldives

X MaliMalta Marshall Islands MauritaniaMauritiusMayotteMexico Micronesia, Fed. StatesMoldova

X MongoliaMontserrat

X MoroccoX Mozambique

MyanmarX Namibia

NauruX NepalX Nicaragua

NigerX Nigeria

NiueOman

X Pakistan

Palau Islands X Palestinian Admin. Areas X Panama X Papua New Guinea

Paraguay X Peru X Philippines

Rwanda São Tomé & Principe

X Senegal Seychelles Sierra Leone Slovenia Solomon Islands Somalia South Africa

X Sri Lanka St. Helena St. Kitts-Nevis St. Lucia St. Vincent and GrenadinesSudan Surinam Swaziland Syria Tajikistan

X Tanzania X Thailand

Togo Tokelau Tonga Trinidad & Tobago

X Tunisia Turkey Turkmenistan Turks & Caicos Islands Tuvalu

X Uganda Uruguay

X Uzbekistan Vanuatu

X Venezuela X Vietnam

Wallis & FutunaWestern Samoa

X Yemen Yugoslavia, Fed. Rep.

X Zambia X Zimbabwe

Please note that the list of developing countries from the OECD (Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development),as applied in this market survey, may include countries that are usually not considered as developing countries (e.g. South Korea).Countries marked with an ‘X’ are eligible for CBI assistance.

Note: Eurostat figures do not include figures of Cook Islands, Niue, St. Kitts-Nevis, Timor and Tokelau

Dated: January (2000)

APPENDIX 10 LIST OF NETHERLANDS IMPORTERS AND KEY EU IMPORTERS

NETHERLANDS IMPORTERSBehavé Sieraden B.V.(Wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Langeweg 11, 4527 PN Aardenburg,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 117 491 940Fax: + 31 (0) 117 492 712

Bijl Bijou B.V.(Wholesaler of costume jewellery)Address: Pastoor Pieckweg 40, 3828 PR Hoogland,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 33 456 440 9Fax: + 31 (0) 33 456 440 3

Bijoux Oriental B.V.(Wholesaler of costume and precious jewellery)Address: Wilhelminasingel 257, 6001 GS Weert,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 495 532 460Fax: + 31 (0) 495 532 715

Bombarie Import(Importer costume and silver jewellery)Address: Bagijnhof 7, 1671 CC Medemblik,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 227 541 369Fax: + 31 (0) 227 570 047Internet: bombarie@xs4all.nl

Culture Mix(Importer/wholesaler of costume, silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Oudegracht 302, 3511 NX Utrecht,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 30 234 000 5Fax: + 31 (0) 30 234 311 5

GEM B.V.(Importer/wholesaler of costume, silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Scheveningseweg 11, 2517 KS Den Haag,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 70 352 431 2Fax: + 31 (0) 70 350 504 9

Versteegh Utrecht B.V.(Importer/wholesaler of costume jewellery and hairornaments)Address: P.O. Box 1019, 3990 CA Houten,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 30 294 660 2Fax: + 31 (0) 30 634 234 9

HG International B.V.(Importer of costume and silver jewellery)Address: Damsluisweg 70, 1332 EJ Almere,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 36 549 470 0Fax: + 31 (0) 36 549 474 4E-mail: info@hginternational.comInternet: www.hginternational.com

Kasius B.V.(Importer of silver jewellery)Address: Rietdekkerstraat 10, 2984 BM Ridderkerk,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 180 462 700Fax: + 31 (0) 180 462 201

Lacom B.V.(Wholesaler of costume, silver jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: Hauwklaver 6, 3069 DJ Rotterdam,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 10 456 036 1Fax: + 31 (0) 10 456 036 1

Parsifal(Wholesaler and manufacturer of costume, silver jewelleryand hair ornaments)Address: Reigerstraat 9a, 4811 XA Breda,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 76 514 134 4Fax: + 31 (0) 76 522 859 2E-mail: welcome@parsifal.nlInternet: www.parsifal.nl

Siam VOF(Wholesaler and manufacturer of costume, silver jewellery)Address: Vissersteeg 1, 2841 XL Moordrecht,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 182 374 316Fax: + 31 (0) 182 374 946

74

Toenga(Importer/wholesaler of costume, silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Beatrixgebouw jun-03, 3521 AL Utrecht,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 30 293 619 1Fax: + 31 (0) 30 294 800 0

Van der Pluijm Sieraden B.V.(Importer/wholesaler of costume, silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Jaarbeursplein jun-03, 3521 AL Utrecht,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 30 294 181 1Fax: + 31 (0) 30 293 543 4

Van Saarloos B.V.(Importer of costume, silver jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: Sterrebaan 13, 3542 DJ Utrecht,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 30 241 574 7Fax: + 31 (0) 30 241 545 0E-mail: info@vsbijou.nlInternet: www.vsbijou.nl

Wings Bijou(Importer/wholesaler of costume jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Lekdijk 93, 2865 LC AmmerstolTelephone: + 31 (0) 182 354 511Fax: + 31 (0) 182 354 665

DEPARTMENT STORESDe Bijenkorf B.V.Address: P.O. Box 12870, 1100 AW Amsterdam,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 20 652 652 6Fax: + 31 (0) 20 697 392 6Internet: www.bijenkorf.nl

Hema B.V.Address: P.O. Box 23220, 1100 DS Amsterdam,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 20 311 441 1Fax: + 31 (0) 20 311 400 0Internet: www.hema.nl

Vroom & Dreesmann Nederland B.V.Address: P.O. Box 276, 1000 AG Amsterdam,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 20 595 911 1Fax: + 31 (0) 20 692 651 0Internet: www.vroomendressmann.nl

MAIL ORDERWehkamp B.V.Address: P.O. Box 400, 8000 AK Zwolle,

The NetherlandsTelephone: + 31 (0) 38 421 686 8Fax : + 31 (0) 38 497 358 0E-mail: info@wehkamp.nlInternet: www.wehkamp.nl

KEY IMPORTERS IN THE SELECTED MARKETSWITHIN THE EU

UNITED KINGDOMBezold Brigitte(wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery)Address: 3 Craighouse Park, Edinburgh, EH10 5LB,

UKTelephone: + 44 (0) 131 447 023 9Fax: + 44 (0) 131 447 061 1E-mail: b.bezold@eca.ac.uk

G.B. International(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: 71 Kymswell Road, Stevenage,

Herts SG2 9JP, UKTelephone: + 44 (0) 1438 749 078Fax: + 44 (0) 1438 742 233

KJD Jewellers Ltd.(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: 42 Vyse Street, Jewellery Quarter,

Birmingham B18 6HF, UKTelephone: + 44 (0) 121 507 147 7Fax: + 44 (0) 121 507 166 0E-mail: kdavis@kjdjewellers.comInternet: www.kjdjewellers.com

Nhomcel(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: 373 Aspley Lane, Aspley,

Nottingham NG8 5RR, UKTelephone: + 44 (0) 1159 297 237Fax: + 44 (0) 1159 299 655

Occidental & Pacific Trading(Trader of costume and silver jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: Kingsley House, Haslemere GU27 3LU, UKTelephone: + 44 (0) 1428 566 32Fax: + 44 (0) 1428 658 351

Philippine Village Imports(Importer of costume and silver jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: The Camp Brookland, Kent TN29 9TF, UKTelephone: + 44 (0) 1797 344 616Fax: + 44 (0) 1797 344 481

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Tomar Eastern Imports(Importer of costume and silver jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: 4-6 London Road, Harleston,

Norfolk GP20 9BW, UKTelephone: + 44 (0) 1379 852 179Fax: + 44 (0) 1379 854 43

Tumi “Latin American Crafts”(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: 8-9 New Bond Street Place, Bath,

Avon BA1 1BH, UKTelephone: + 44 (0) 1225 462 367Fax: + 44 (0) 1225 444 870

FRANCEDardel Paris(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery)Address: 11 bius rue des Campanules-Lognes,

77437 Marne La Vallee, FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 601 775 24Fax: + 33 (0) 1 601 775 08E-mail: office@dardel.comInternet: www.dardel.com

Eugene Budin et Ses Fils SarI(Importer/wholesaler of costume jewellery and hairornaments)Address: 20/26 rue des Presles,93300 Aubervilliers,

FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 483 307 13Fax: + 33 (0) 1 483 306 99

GIF International(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: 7 rue Pierre Maître, 44340 Bouguenais,

FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 2 406 523 86Fax: + 33 (0) 2 408 960 94

Masculin Compose(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery for men)Address: 2 rue Grenetle, 59002 Lyon, FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 4 783 747 59Fax: + 33 (0) 4 783 772 46

Robert Revais S.A.(Importer of hair ornaments)Address: 32 rue Brillat Savarin, 01100 Oyonax, FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 474 772 663Fax: + 33 (0) 474 730 222

S.A. Paridoc(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: 258 Avenue Napoléon Bonaparte,

92500 Rueil-Malmaison, FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 474 902 25Fax: + 33 (0) 1 474 977 76

SCA des Monoprix(Department store for food and non-food products in the low-end segment)Address: 3 rue Paul Cézanne, 75361 Paris Cedex 8,

FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 1 407 515 15Fax: + 33 (0) 1 407 511 16

Valles-Dordal(Wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery)Address: 249 Quai Voltaire, 77190 Dammerie Les Lys,

FranceTelephone: + 33 (0) 64 643 906 33Fax: + 33 (0) 64 643 982 10E-mail: valles-dordal@wanadoo.fr

Other French importers can be found at:– www.boci.org/fr/fab1.html (costume jewellery)– www.frenchjewelry.com (all jewellery)

GERMANYBecker, Horst(Wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery)Address: Hauptstrasse 51a, 55743 Kirschweiler,

GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 6781 331 92Fax: + 49 (0) 6781 350 87E-mail: service@horstbecker.comInternet: www.horstbecker.com

Blumenschein, Otto(Wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery)Address: Kimbacherstrasse 107, 64732 Bad König,

GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 6063 144 3Fax: + 49 (0) 6063 534 3E-mail: info@otto-blumenschein.deInternet: www.ottp-blumenschein.de

Ernst Schmuckwaren(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Rheinhessenstr. 9, 55129 Mainz, GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 6131 582 006 9Fax: + 49 (0) 6131 508 913

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Fine Arts(Wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Kappelwindeckstr. 8, 77815 Buehl, GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 722 390 105 4Fax: + 49 (0) 722 390 105 4

Goldstein, GmbH(Importer/wholesaler of costume jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Oberneulander Landstrasse 189,

28355 Bremen, GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 421 253 300Fax: + 49 (0) 421 253 11

Jainsco Import-Export(Trader of costume and silver jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: Im Güldenen Wingert,

64342 Seeheim-Jugenheim, GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 6257 864 95Fax: + 49 (0) 6257 864 97E-mail: jainsco@t-online.de

Merkle, H.F.C., GmbH(Wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Förstlerweg 155, 22525 Hamburg, GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 40 547 234 0Fax: + 49 (0) 40 547 234 23E-mail: hcf-merckle@t-online.deInternet: www.hcf-merkle.de

Peter S. Fischer(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Kordonhausgasse, 85435 Erding, GermanyTelephone: + 49 (0) 8122 206 60Fax: + 49 (0) 8122 912 10

ITALYAlfieri & St. John Spa(Wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery)Address: Viale Vittorio Veneto 12, 15048 Valenza (AL),

ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 0131 953 681Fax: + 39 (0) 0131 946 968E-mail: asjitaly@tin.it

Colombini Enrico(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Via Castel Maraldo 45, 41100 Modena, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 59 226 473Fax: + 39 (0) 59 828 151

Confezioni Huno Spa(Importer of costume jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: Viale della Resistenza 58-60,

42018 San Martino In Rio (RE) , ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 522 695 000Fax: + 39 (0) 522 695 025

Giorgio Piazzi Rappresentanze(Importer of costume and silver jewellery)Address: Via della Croce 56, 00187 Rome, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 6 679 000 0Fax: + 39 (0) 6 678 282 9

Massimo Peroso(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Via Sistina 29/A, 00187 Rome, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 6 474 795 2Fax: + 39 (0) 6 482 822 4

P.G.P. Sistema S.R.L.(Importer/wholesaler of silver jewellery)Address: Via Ugo Bassi 3, 20159 Milano, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 02 607 193 9Fax: + 39 (0) 02 668 260 6

Pierpaolo S.N.C.(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery)Address: Via Gramsci 98/1, 42100 Reggio Emilia, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 522 926 455Fax: + 39 (0) 522 926 455

Un Piccoli S.R.L.(Wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Corso cavallotti 233/239,

18038 San Remo (Imperia), ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 184 508 821Fax: + 39 (0) 184 508 833

Vigano Alfredo S.R.L.(Wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery)Address: Piazza Oberdan 3, 20129 Milano, ItalyTelephone: + 39 (0) 02 294 000 18Fax: + 39 (0) 02 294 000 18

SPAINArte del Mundo S.L.(Importer of costume and silver jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: C/. General Yague 6 bis, 28020 Madrid, SpainTelephone: + 34 (0) 91 597 104 7Fax: + 34 (0) 91 597 108 1

Artieda, S.A.(Wholesaler of costume jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: Juan Ramon Jimenez 8, 28036 Madrid, SpainTelephone: + 34 (0) 1 259 767 4Fax: + 34 (0) 1 259 767 4

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Babot Selection S.A(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: Calvet 7 50.1A, 08021 Barcelona, SpainTelephone: + 34 (0) 3 200 843 3Fax: + 34 (0) 3 200 860 0

Comercial Joanco, S.A.(Wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: A venida de la Puebla 20, 24400 Ponferrada,

SpainTelephone: + 34 (0) 87 416 554Fax: + 34 (0) 87 416 555

Dalamal, S.A.(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery)Address: Villalba Hervas 2, Santa Cruz de Tenerife Telephone: + 34 (0) 22 682 662Fax: + 34 (0) 22 682 688

H.E.C.I.S.A., S.L.(Importer of costume and silver jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: J. Tarradellas 80-82, Ent.4-A,

08029 Barcelona, SpainTelephone: + 34 (0) 3 410 220 4Fax: + 34 (0) 3 410 140 9

Iberica Exportadora SA(Trader of costume jewellery and hair ornaments)Address: Ercilla 14, Bilbao 9, SpainTelephone: + 34 (0) 4 423 810 7Fax: + 34 (0) 4 423 810 8

Maximo Parra, S.A.(Importer/wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery and hairornaments)Address: C/Duque de Rivas 3, 28012 Madrid, SpainTelephone: + 34 (0) 1 369 366 1Fax: + 34 (0) 1 369 443 6

Other Spanish importers can be found at:– www.joyeria-guia.com– www.spaindustry.com

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APPENDIX 11 USEFUL INTERNET SITES

Europastar - website: www.europastar.comThis site has been set up by the publisher Miller Freeman andprovides information on European jewellery markets,production, trade channels, imports/exports, technicaldevelopments, CEN quality standards and international tradefairs. The latest developments in the EU jewellery industry are covered in their magazine and this site has linkages to otheruseful databases.

World Gold Council - website: www.gold.orgThis site provides information on the international jewelleryindustry and has a news service with summaries of their latestpublished market reports. Although, the emphasis is on goldenjewellery, it also gives information on the precious andcostume jewellery markets. It also gives a good selection oflinks to trade associations, publishers and organisationsinvolved in the jewellery sectors.

CIBJO - website: www.cibjo.orgThis site gives information on international jewellery markets,production, trade channels, imports/exports, technicaldevelopments, CEN quality standards and international tradefairs. Its main purpose is to provide contacts betweenjewellery manufacturers on a global basis. Information onproduction-related items such as machinery, components andnew products are also given on this site.

MJSA - website: mjsa.polygon.netThis site has been set up by the Jewellery Information Centre(MJSA) and covers mainly the USA jewellery industry, butalso gives the latest news on EU markets. It providesinformation on the latest trends in fashion and gives anoverview on international jewellery trade fairs. It also outlinesthe possibilities for contacting importers in the USA, but alsoEU jewellery importers.

Silver institute - website: www.silverinstitute.orgThis site has been set up by the silver institute and covers thedevelopments in the international silver industry, in terms ofproduction, but also gives the latest news on EU markets forsilver jewellery.

Recommended sites for information on the latest trends injewellery and accessories are:

→ www.silverinfo.com (silver jewellery)→ www.hairboutique.com (hair ornaments)→ www.longlocks.com (hair ornaments)→ www.widemedia.com→ www.fashionangel.com→ www.karli.com/vogue

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