FASHION FEATURE Under - WGSNlp.wgsn.com/rs/948-BWZ-312/images/Construction.pdf · 2018-06-13 ·...
Transcript of FASHION FEATURE Under - WGSNlp.wgsn.com/rs/948-BWZ-312/images/Construction.pdf · 2018-06-13 ·...
86FASHION FEATURE
UnderConstruction
Would you ditch your staple skinny jeans for an original fit? As more women start to make the switch, we take a closer
look at the rising trend of 2016.
By Susan Devaney
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Freedom. That’s what women wanted from a pair
of jeans. Think Thelma and Louise taking on the
highway, decked out in high-waisted Levi’s and motif
tees (and obligatory branded leather cowboy boots)
or Jane Birkin in sky blue versions and a plain white
cotton t-shirt. Understatedly cool. The original denim
dream consisted of rigid, 100 per cent cotton denim
– no lycra, no stretch. Since Kate Moss donned
her stretchy spray-on skinnies over a decade ago,
women briskly turned their backs on the once-loved
androgynous style. So quickly did they make their
way up to the top of the denim charts that we lost
sight of real denim? Instead, we embraced the skinny
for what it was – an imposter, but one that created
the likeable illusion of a lean figure for all.
However, a proper pair of jeans can be a friend for
life. How many pairs of skinnies have you loved and
lost throughout the past decade? “The best benefit
of a pair of non-stretch jeans is that they’re built
to last and they’ll improve along the way. A good
pair of real jeans will be with you for life – the odd
rip and patch only enhances its character, which is
a rare thing in modern day fashion,” says Samuel
Trotman, Denim Editor at WGSN. “While a pair of
rigid, unwashed jeans may be a tough thing to get
used to after years of elastane stretch against your
skin, the rewards will be worth it once you’ve given
them their six-month gracing period (with no wash).”
Yeah, that’s right, true denim needs to be broken in.
But, the rewards will be fruitful when they’ve moulded
to your shape, and achieved their ‘hold’ (a.k.a a
pert-looking behind). “One thing every denim lover
says they love about their jeans is how they mould to
you and tell a story through the fades. You can only
achieve this through breaking in a raw pair of jeans.
If you’re not into 100 per cent cotton non-stretch,
there are comfort stretch raw fabrics on the market
that will give you an added bit of ease before you
commit to the real deal,” says Sam.
What’s the fit to wear now? “Women are looking
for those truly authentic looking jeans, but with a
contemporary look and fit. Think hip-hugging, high-
rise fits with hems cropped above the ankle or slim-
fits that have been opened up at the hem to create
a modern micro kick flare,” advises Sam. A daily
dose of inspiration is constantly streaming on social
media channels, with hashtags like #janebirkindaily,
We may be delving into sartorial archives, but this new denim appreciation is a completely fresh approach.
#levis and #debbieharry generating millions of hits,
especially after the summer music festivals taking
place across the world. It’s evident that we’re turning
to long-standing style icons for encouragement,
and dependable, old-school brands like Levi’s and
Wrangler for a good fit. Do you remember Debbie
Harry’s beloved stone-washed Levi’s 505s? We may
be delving into sartorial archives, but this new denim
appreciation is a completely fresh approach. Denim
is being deconstructed for 2016 thanks to emerging
labels. The real denim revolution happening now is
not simply about adopting a throwback look, it’s
fashion’s youth who are leading the pack. Designer
Demna Gvasalia (a Maison Martin Margiela alumnus
and newly appointed creative director of Balenciaga)
started the cult Parisian label Vetements (it translates
to ‘clothing’ in French) to go against the old in
creating the new. In doing so, they’ve created one
of the most in demand pair of jeans of the season.
“We founded Vetements because we simply wanted
to make clothes for our friends, girls we know. It’s a
brand that makes clothes, inspired by clothes. There
are no seasonal themes, we always work with the
existing wardrobe and every season try to give the
garments we like a new shape, concept and frame,”
Gvasalia told MOJEH in August last year. Within Pho
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obvious that jeans are taking on a new shape for the
future. “The women that are adopting the raw jean,
archival look, I think are tapping into a more lifestyle
driven trend: Caring where things are made, by whom
and how. It’s mostly the Millennials who are getting
in on this vibe. And yes, personally I think this will
mean a long-term lifestyle shift, not a quick flash
trend,” says Amy Leverton of Denim Dudes. Like the
rest of the buying habits of consumers across the
fashion industry, attentions are turning to ethics and
commercialisation. “Women are starting to care more
where their denim comes from and are going back
to a more archival denim look…My thoughts are that
we are coming into a long phase of ‘being yourself’
of wearing what you want to wear and being true to
yourself. That makes it harder for brands because
they are trying to be everything to everybody, but for
consumers, it means less rules,” says Amy.
We’re welcoming less rules, and looking for the
personal touch instead. Before you start to wear
in your brand new pair of Levi’s, the brand is now
offering a bespoke service to help you get the perfect
fit, tailoring a brand new pair of jeans to your exact
body shape. “We will be launching a campaign a bit
later in the year which talks to the 501 fit and Levi’s
being the original blue jean,” says Simone Fichtl,
Brand Manager for Levi’s in Africa and the Middle
East. But are consumers searching for something
even more personal? “Buying from a small, artisanal
brand is far more rewarding because the brand
is small, they can give you the personal touch.
Recently, I bought unisex jeans from a guy called
Evan Kinori in San Francisco. I went to visit his
studio, talked with him and hung out for like four
hours,” says Amy. “There’s a lot of big brands out
there I adore but you simply cannot say the same
when you buy something from a chain store.”
With celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Amber Heard
and Caroline de Maigret achieving the new look
with ease, this boy-fit denim is one for everyone
to give a go – and why not? If it means we’re
conscientiously looking for jeans that are built
to last and love for a long time, it can only be a
(really) good thing, as we take back that l ived-
in and locked-in feel ing. Unlike our sl imming
skinnies, in a decade’s time from now, we’ll sti l l
feel the freedom of our love-worn original f it.
days of being stocked by luxury online retail site
Net-A-Porter, Vetements’s reworked vintage jeans
were sold out, and at around AED4,000 a pair –that’s
a heavy price tag for denim. “This is where brands
like Vetements, Redone and Aries are capturing the
market. Each of the styles have that nostalgic feel,
but with an idiosyncratic, asymmetric, DIY finish that
feels completely fresh in today’s saturated denim
market,” says WGSN’s Sam. Aries, a London-based
label, has garnered a whole host of young fans
(who’ve probably never previously owned a pair of
proper denim jeans) by sticking to simple cuts and
delightful patches. Their ‘Lilly style’ is apparently
still produced in a mill using pebbles to stonewash
the denim. Does it get more authentic than that?
But they’re not the only ones.“Other brands to look
out for are MiH, Simon Miller and Brock Collections
– they’re also hitting the trend with their authentic
styles,” Sam concludes.
There’s a strong rock ‘n’ roll attitude to the emerging
names and the women who are already tackling the
new trend head on. During fashion week season,
throughout the months of February and March,
street style stars took on the look with aplomb.
From cropped cuts with distressed hems to high-
waisted silhouettes in a series of blue shades, it was
From cropped cuts with distressed hems to high-waisted silhouettes in a series of blue shades, it was obvious that jeans are taking on a new shape for the future.
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