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CONTROVERSY One of his most challenging collections featured Paralympian Aimee Mullins striding down the catwalk, in elaborately carved wooden prosthetic legs

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FASHION | A TRUE LEGEND

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OYears passed after Alexander McQueen’s untimely death at the age of 40 and the world is still enthralled with the dark and menacing vision of one of England’s

most tortured fashion icons.

THE DARK BEAUTY

Alexander McQueenStory by Rachel Chrysostom

of

On February 11th, 2010, New York Fashion Week was just getting started. The glitterati of the fashion industry were all gathered in Bryant Park, when Blackberrys in the front row began to buzz in unison. Halfway across the world in London, Lee Alexander McQueen had ended his life, sending shockwaves reverberating across the ocean.

THE PINK SHEEP The youngest of six children, Alexander McQueen, or ‘Lee,’ as he was commonly known, was born in London’s East End. He described himself as “a pink sheep in a family of black cab drivers.” With a working class background very different to that of many of his contemporaries in the fashion trade, McQueen’s star shone bright from the moment he left school at 16. He entered an apprenticeship at the highly revered Saville Row tailors Gieves and Hawkes, both masters in the technical construction of clothing. The razor sharp tailoring, which has become a trademark of the McQueen clothing lines, was learned during a later stint with theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans.

THE TEMPESTUOUS RELATIONSHIP WITH ISABELLA BLOWUpon finishing his Masters degree in Fashion Design at Central Saint Martin’s in London, his entire MA collection was famously purchased by influential stylist Isabella Blow. Blow has been credited with discovering the young designer, convincing him to drop his first name, Lee, in favour of his “more regal” middle name, Alexander, and catapulting him to fame. The two had a turbulent, tempestuous relationship, and Blow’s suicide in 2007, not long before his own, led to him dedicating his entire spring/summer 2008 collection to her memory.

STRANGE AND TWISTED CREATIONS It only took 10 years for Alexander McQueen to become one of the most respected fashion designers in the world. In 1996, he was appointed Chief Designer at the French Haute Couture House Givenchy. It was there that he began pushing boundaries with his designs, showing a predilection for the strange and twisted creations that would later

It only took 10 years for Alexander McQueen to become one of the most

respected fashion designers in the world.

become his brand. One of his most challenging collections featured Paralympian Aimee Mullins striding down the catwalk in elaborately carved wooden prosthetic legs, designed by McQueen himself. His contract with Givenchy, which McQueen had said was “constraining his creativity,” ended in 2001.

By 2002, a 51% stake of his label was bought by the Gucci Group, which resulted in a rapid expansion of flagship stores from Los Angeles to

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COLLECTIONSHis collections combined an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring

McQueen never felt comfortable with his fame: "I didn't plan out my life like that. When people recognise and respect what you do, that's nice, but I don't think you ever do this to be famous. Fame

should be left to the film stars. We're just offering a service."

fame

He was a pink sheep in a family of black

cab drivers.

Beirut. Throughout this time, McQueen continued to grab the public’s attention with his provocative, uncompromising, and often disturbing presence in the global fashion industry. Perhaps one of his most memorable creations is the reptile-scaled lobster-claw shaped boots that became known as Armadillo boots. The 10-inch heels were made most famous by pop star Lady Gaga, one of McQueen’s biggest fans herself. As daringly provocative as the Armadillo boots were, they were also accompanied by the very real fear that with one twist of an ankle, the whole runway show could end in disaster, and McQueen would be remembered for callously putting his models in danger.

Brutal imagery was echoed in McQueen’s shows throughout his career. His debut in 1995 was the highly controversial Highland Rape show. Models with matted hair, blanked out eyes, torn garments and bloodied bodies ignited fury amongst the public. In his subsequent seasons, McQueen’s shows were peppered with such imagery as rings of flames and glass boxes shattering to reveal moths fluttering around the masked face of a naked woman.

HIS INTERNAL STRUGGLESHis shows were praised for their emotional power and raw energy, as

FASHION | A TRUE LEGEND

well as for the romantic and determinedly contemporary nature of his collections. However, it became inevitable that the British designer, who had been awarded the coveted Designer of the Year Award at the British Fashion Awards four times, would come to be defined by shock and violence. Despite his many accolades (McQueen also won Men’s Wear Designer of the Year award in 2004, the CFDA Award for Best International Designer in 2003, and was honoured with a CBE from Queen Elizabeth II for his services to the fashion industry), and the true talent and hard work which shone through in his designs, Alexander McQueen’s success was clearly fraught with internal struggle. Following his tragic death, many concluded that his was a narrative in which darkness would inevitably prevail.

The quality of McQueen’s work was often described in superlatives. His collections combined an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing. However, behind it all was a troubled man who seemed to be heading towards an inevitable bleak end. It is perhaps most fitting to his legacy, therefore, that upon his death, the single item which was sold out worldwide was the McQueen scarf adorned with his trademark skull motif. A subtle reminder of a brilliant man who was ultimately engulfed by his own darkness.