History assignment

Fashion in Victorian era and Regency period

Victorian era - Fashion

The main feature of the Victorian epoch was the mix of the best of other styles. Victorian Era was a lively style of ornamentation.

Clothes on the Victorian Era were very elaborated and restrictive on the bodies of those who wore them. The Victorian Era was a time period between 1830 to the end of the XXth century.

The rise of the economy allowed to make more elaborated clothes. Cloth making was made easier and cheaper during the industrial boom of this time.

The women’s dress was very elaborated. Their dresses affected the way they walked, sat or moved her arms. Women wore a variety of colors for their stockings and dresses. Dresses and stockings undergarments were cut in a style to show off the figure in a modest way. The undergarments had whale-bones or flexible steel to make it more comfortable

Firstly the drawers Secondly the slip

Thirdly they had to put on the corset

Fifthly the camisole

Sixthly they had to put on the "bustle" or polisón, this piece was essential to give form to the dress

Fourtly the petticoat

Followed to the underskirt

Finally the skirt and the jacket

The dress was worn in two pieces and connected with hooks and ties

The dress was worn in two pieces and connected with hooks and ties. The style of sleeves changed many times throughout the Victorian Era. The neckline was worn in a high V-neck.

Fashion – Men During the 1850s, men started wearing shirts with high upstanding or turnover collars and four-in-hand neckties tied in a bow, or tied in a knot with the pointed ends sticking out like "wings". The upper-class continued to wear top hats, and bowler hats were worn by the working class

During the 1870s, three-piece suits grew in popularity along with patterned fabrics for shirts. Neckties were the four-in-hand and, later, the Ascot ties. A narrow ribbon tie was an alternative for tropical climates, especially in the Americas. Both frock coats and sack coats became shorter. Flat straw boaters were worn when boating.

During the 1880s, formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark waistcoat, a white bow tie, and a shirt with a winged collar. In mid-decade, the dinner jacket or tuxedo, was used in more relaxed formal occasions. The Norfolk jacket and tweed or woolen breeches were used for rugged outdoor pursuits such as shooting. Knee-length topcoats, often with contrasting velvet or fur collars, and calf-length overcoats were worn in winter. Men's shoes had higher heels and a narrow toe.

Starting from the 1890s, the blazer was introduced, and was worn for sports, sailing, and other casual activities.

Throughout much of the Victorian Era most men wore fairly short hair. This was often accompanied by various forms of facial hair including moustaches, side-burns, and full beards. A clean-shaven face did not come back into fashion until the end of the 1880s and early 1890s.

Distinguishing what men really wore from what was marketed to them in periodicals and advertisements is problematic, as reliable records do not exist.

Victorian hairstyles-men

Everyday Victorian fashion was very formal, and men of every rank and class were expected to dress and groom themselves as gentlemen. While styles for hair atop a gentleman's head were similar, conservative and often hidden beneath a hat, Victorian men got creative by styling their sideburns, moustaches, and beards.

Short Hair

Victorian Men's hairstyles were conservative. Hair was kept short and styled with wax or oil and parted either at the side, slightly off-center, or brushed straight back. Longer, unkempt hairstyles were generally looked down upon.

SideburnsSideburns were allowed to grow long and further down the face. Popular sideburn style: Bushy "mutton-chops”Another was "Piccadilly weepers" (Dundrearys): were side-whiskers grown long and combed outwards. Sideburns were worn with or without a moustache.

MoustachesMoustache styles ranged widely. The "walrus" moustache: was grown long and bushy, covering most of the lower part of the man's face.The "Kaiser” moustache: was waxed and styled to turn up at the ends. Most moustaches were styled to compliment the gentleman's beard or sideburns.

Beards

beards also varied greatly in style. The "goatee“ beard: a thin and pointed beard extending down from a moustache and just covering the chin, was popular. The "fringe beard“: another popular style in the 1850s and 1860s, extended down from the hairline and under the chin, and was often worn without a moustache. Some men grew longer, fuller beards which could be styled with wax. Others trimmed them short.

Victorian Women Hairstyles

Hairstyles were very complicated.Hair was thick, long, and luxuriant in many different styles. Hair was parted down the middle, curled or braided, then tied or pinned back.Only in informal occasions we can see the Victorian lady leaving her hair fall loose around her shoulders.Later in the XIXth century, Victorian hairstyles became more elaborated. Bangs made their debut around 1880. Women began to use hot irons to wave their hair or add ringlets to it.

BraidEarly in the era, the simple braided hairstyle was seen on most women with long straight hair.Hair was pulled into a ponytail and divided into three or five sections. Each section is braided, individually, then pinned under the ponytail. This 'do was often accented with a decorative comb.

Sugar CurlsAlso known as Barley Curls: are long curls that drop down the back of the neck and shoulders. Early in the 18th century, it was a social taboo for women to wear their hair down. So this style was relegated mostly to children. However, later in the century, young women wore the hair at the back of their head long and loose down the back. The hair at the top of their head was swept up or around the sides of the head and kept up.

PompadoursBy the 1880s, women donned pompadours. In this hairstyle, the hair was swept up high above the forehead.At this time, hair pieces were introduced to create hair that appeared full and thick. The poof of hair, known as a pompadour, was then decorated with jewels and feathers.

TitusThe Titus hairstyle called for hair to be cut short around the face.The hair in back was also cut to the shoulder in a layered style.Hair surrounding the face was then curled and styled with flowers or decorative combs.

Crimping using Hot Irons

Hot irons were introduced as hair styling devices during the Victorian era, which resulted in the popularity of crimped updos."Marcel Wave“- involved using a hot iron on the hair to create a loose wavy updo.

The Victorian EraMAKEUP

Victorian Era 19TH Century

MAKEUPIn the Victorian era, a healthy and natural complexion was valued in cosmetics and beauty products.

The Victorian women never wore make up. They believed in letting their skin glow in all its beauty with only a tad bit of blush on their cheeks to finish the look.

That make-up was heavily worn in Europe until later in the 20th century.

The early Victorian period was pretty much the last period in history.

By the nineteenth century, zinc oxide became widely used as a facial powder.

the Victorian era, cosmetics were considered the devil's making, associated with prostitutes and women of questionable morals.

They used lead and antimony sulfide as eye shadow. Mercuric sulfide, to make their lips red,

Victorian Era Jewellery (1837 to 1901)

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Victorian era hatsHats were primarily used as a protection from the sun, to avoid an injury... However, in the later years, hats became a symbol of style statement and authority. The kind of hats worn by women and men were different. Hats formed an essential part of a woman’s appearance and as a result, they always wear a hat when they went out. For men, the top hat or the tall silk hat was generally worn for formal days and evening wear.

Men's hatsTop hatThe black silk top hat was made from cheesecloth, linen, flannel and shellac. Using various types of flat-irons, the shellac . The hat was finished with a 2½ to 3 cm wide cloth hatband, which was later replaced by one of ribbed silk. Later in the Victorian era, from 1837 to 1901, the height was reduced to between 16 and 17 cm. Around 1890, the top hat also received a larger crown, so appearing more tailored or 'nipped in'. From around 1920, top hats were around 12 to 13 cm in height. That still applies today.

The proper Victorian gentleman was not seen outdoors without a hat. The top hat was required for formal day and evening wear, but by the 1870s, a gentleman could choose from a variety of styles of headgear for informal wear. There was the bowler, the homburg, the derby – and for summer there were a variety of designs in straw hats. Fashionable styles were featured in an assortment of shades and shape in both soft and stiff hats, with selections in color width of brim, height of crown and, of course.

Women’s hats

Hats were also used by young women and girls. Most of the hats used were trimmed with ribbons, Feathers, flowers and at times, veils.The hats were layered on a wirebase covered with str awbraids or twisted fabric and was made from velvet, satin, cotton and tulle fabrics. Birds were used as decorating piece on the hats. The hats were ornamented by bird parts like their wings, breasts or at times the whole bird was used.

Morning Cap

Victorian women of ten wore an informal cap indoors. This headdress was referred to as a morning, breakfast, or day cap.These caps were either simply made or lavished with frills and ribbons.

Victorian BonnetsBonnets were popular hats for women of both upper and lower classes throughout the Victorian era. Bonnets are essentially hats with the front portion of the brim removed and typically tied underneath the chin. Though all bonnets fit this definition, their style and function varied greatly. Bonnets could be plain and practical or grand and extravagant, featuring multi-colored feathers and even decorative birds. As elaborate hair styles became increasingly prevalent towards the later Victorian age, bonnets began covering less and less of the face and eventually ended up being perched atop the wearer's hair.

Victorian Hats - 1878

Silk ribbons and feathers trim this Hat from 1878.

Victorian Hat from 1878 is ornamented with a stuffed bird.

Hat from 1878 has wide ribbon tie and large feather.

Victorian era fansIn the 18th century, the hand fan was both utilitarian, as well as decorative. There were all kinds of fans, from the extremely plain paddle fans made from paper or wood, to the most ornate made of the finest silk and adorned with fine embroidery or painting.

Features of 18th Century Fans

While fans of the 19th century and later typically form a half circle when opened, most 18th century fans only form a 1/3rd or 3/8th circle. The sticks are about 28-30 cm long, rarely shorter (25-26 cm) or longer (up to 32 cm). The lower end of the closed fan, seen from above, is usually rounded.

Shape and Size

The sticks were made of wood, tortoiseshell or ivory. In the early to mid 18th century, the lower part of the sticks formed a solid surface that could be pierced, carved. In the late 18th century, there was "daylight" between the sticks. The sides of the sticks were usually carved, especially near the lower end. Sometimes the carvings are made in such a way that patterns or figures become visble only when the fan is closed.

Sticks

There are folding fans and brisé fans. Brisé fans consist only of sticks that get continuously wider from the rivet to the top, forming one solid surface. They are held together by a fabric band. The sticks of folding fans become narrow at one point and a leaf is stuck to one or both sides of the narrow part.

Leaf

Brise fans were relatively common until about 1730, then practically nonexistent until 1800/1810. The early brise fans have smooth sticks without any carving or piercing, painted across the whole surface. There usually is a break between the lower and upper part that seems to emulate the border between stick and leaf as seen on folding fans.

The leaves of folding fans were made of paper, parchment or "swan skin", which actually as the very fine leather of lambs or kids.

The Victorian Era is almost mythically known for proper etiquette in behavior and dress. Women’s “lower limbs” were kept completely covered by long skirts and crinolines, and ankle boots came into fashion as a way to avoid glimpses of these off-limits appendages. The tops of boots might be decorated with bows or tassels to be tantalizingly glimpsed under a demurely flouncing skirt.

Women’s shoes and Boots

narrow-toed boots in the smallest size possible, to give the impression of extremely tiny, dainty, feminine feet.Small heels were added to boots in the late 1840s and 1850s, and to slippers between 1860

Men's Shoes & BootsIn Victorian times, it was said you could judge the caliber of a man by the boots he wore. Men's footwear at the time was very formal and conservative, and the short ankle boot took prominence in fashion; half-boots (calf-length) or knee-length boots were worn mainly for riding, and generally not for strolling the streets of town

The 1850s, elastic-sided boots were joined in popularity by those with lacing on their inner sides.

Wellington boots (worn for riding or mucking about in the country) were named after the Duke of Wellington. He designed them to be worn in cavalry warfare (the top of the boot originally came over the knee to mitigate knee-wounds in soldiers), but they became quite popular with the sports-and-fashion-minded male set.

Lastly, lace-up ankle-length boots, known as Paddock boots, were worn by fashion-conscious gentlemen who also wished to be known for their equestrian skills. Whether on horseback or in the streets (but never at a formal event!), these were the highbrow boots of choice.

REGENCY PERIOD FASHION

Fashion in the period 1795–1820 in European and European-influenced countries saw the final triumph of undress or informal styles.In the aftermath of the French Revolution, no one wanted to appear to be a member of the French aristocracy, and people began using clothing more as a form of individual expression of the true-self than as a pure indication of social status.

WOMENFor women's dress, the day to day outfit of the skirt and jacket style were practical and tactful

Women's fashions followed classical ideals, and tightly lacedcorsets were temporarily abandoned in favor of a high-waisted, natural figure

MENIn Britain, Beau Brummell introduced trousers, perfect tailoring, and unadorned, immaculate linen as the ideals of men's fashion.In Germany, republican city-states relinquished their traditional, modest, and practical garments and started to embrace the French and English fashion trends of short-sleeved chemise dresses and Spencer jackets. American fashion trends emulated French dress, but in a toned down manner with shawls and tunics to cope with the sheerness of the chemise

by the 1780s, the new, “natural” style allowed one’s inner self to transcend their clothes.accessories and the detail on the clothing were more important than the shape of the dress. clothing became much lighter and more able to be changed and washed frequently. Even upper class women began wearing cropped dresses as opposed to dresses with long trains or hoops that restricted them from leaving their homes. In a sense, women were influenced by male fashion, such as tailored waistcoats and jackets to emphasize women’s mobility. This new movement toward practicality of dress showed that dress no longer was a way to categorize between classes or genders; dress was meant to suit ones personal daily routine.

Hairstyles

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MAKEUP

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Jewellery

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Hats worn during the Regency period.

Women during the Regency period wore headdresses outdoors as a matter of course. When a woman married, or if she was a spinster in her late twenties, she would also take to wearing a cap indoorsThey denoted class and economic status, as well as fashion sense and one’s marital state. Hats were also worn as a sign of respect, inside a church, for instance, and this custom remained widely popular until well into the 20th-century.They could be ruffled, embroidered, or plain, depending on who wore them and their status. A housekeeper, for example, would wear a more elaborate cap than a scullery maid, whose mob cap was simple by comparison.

In addition to professional milliners and modistes, there was quite a large cottage industry for making caps, hats, and turbans from home, which provided a meager salary for women who needed the income. The materials used in making headdresses were as varied as their styles: straw (chip or strip), beaver, velvet, silk, crape, satin, muslin or cloth (Byrde, p 6). Trims included ribbons, the above mentioned artificial fruits and flowers, veils, net, lace, or feathers, and even beads, pins, and brooches.

Bonnet worn by a women in the regency period.

Hats worn by men- Regency period

The carefully tailored, plain-cloth garments that made up the fashionable Regency man's wardrobe rose up out of the country wear of the English gentleman, and the hat of the period was no exception.Here is a casual hat worn for hunting, illustrated around 1800. Practical low-crowned, wide-brimmed hats came into fashion in the 1780s and gradually became more tailored and curly-brimmed into the earliest years of the new century.

Another country hat, this one with a flatter brim as well as a flatter, sharper crown. These large, low-setting hats suited the long hair that was still holding over from the 18th century. As hair shortened and clung closer to the head, so too did hats.

By 1810, everyday hats had become somewhat taller and fairly straight-sided, and the brims had diminished. This vertical line coordinated with the long, columnar look then dominating fashion and most obvious in women's dress, with skirts and bodices at their narrowest.

As the teens progressed, the sides of the hat passed vertical and began slanting outwards. The crown also gained height as the brim lost width. This brim's excessive curliness also emphasizes a busy vertical line.

As the Regency drew to a close, hats had reached an apex of height and curliness

shoes and Boots

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